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THE   CRUISE 


STEAM  YACHT  NORTH  STAR; 


A    NARRATIVE   OP   THE 


(fcHursicit  of  ^r.^aiikrMlfs  fartj 


ENGLAND.  RUSSIA,  DENMARK,  FRANCE,  SPAIN,  ITALY.  MALTA, 
TURKEY,  MADEIRA,  ETC. 


REV.  JOHN  OVERTON  fJHOULES,  D.  D.. 

ACTHOB  OP  THE  "  HISTORY  OF  MISSIONS,"  "  TOUNG  AMERICANS  ABROAD,"  ETC. 


BOSTON: 
GOULD     AND     LINCOLN. 

NEW   YORK: 

EVANS    AND    DICKERSON. 

1854. 


Entered  according  to  Act  of  Congress,  in  the  year  1854,  by 

GOULD    &    LINCOLN, 

In  tie  Clerk's  Office  of  the  District  Court  of  the  District  of  Massaohnsetta. 


Stereotyped  by 

HOBART    &.    ROBBINS, 

NSW    ENGLAND   TYPE   J  ND   STEREOTYPE   FOUNDRY, 

BOSTON. 

Printed  by  Geo.  C.  Rand,  No.  3  ComhiU. 


C  0 

GEORGE  PEABODY,  ESQ., 

THE 

HONORED  AND  PATRIOTIC  REPRESENTATIVE  OF  AMERICAN  PRINCIPLES 

IN    LONDON, 

fills  l^arrntilj^  qI  i\  Stom  |itd]t  (Bmxxm  m  (Bwxsp, 

MADE    BY 

AN    AMEKICAN    AIERCHANT, 

BT   mS    OBLIGED    FRIEND, 

J,     O.     CHOULES. 


PREFACE. 


I  HAD  the  opportunity  afforded  me,  bj  an  indulgent  con- 
gregation, to  spend  the  summer  of  1851  in  Europe ;  and,  on 
my  return,  I  published  a  small  volume  (on  which  I  was 
aided  by  three  young  friends  and  pupils,  who  were  the  com- 
panions of  my  tour),  entitled  "  Young  Americans  Abroad, 
or  Vacation  in  Europe."  This  had  a  favorable  reception 
by  the  public,  and  has  passed  into  a  fourth  edition  and 
been  reprinted  in  London.  I  had  no  idea  that  I  should 
again  revisit  the  Old  World ;  or,  at  least,  supposed  that 
many  years  would  elapse  ere  such  a  gratification  could  be 
enjoyed. 

Last  February  my  valued  friend,  Mr.  Vanderbilt,  in- 
formed me  that  he  proposed  in  May  to  take  his  family  on  a 
voyage  to  the  principal   seaports  of    Europe,    in  a  steam 

yacht  then  building  for  that  purpose  ;   and  he  most  kindly 

1* 


VI  PREFACE. 

invited  me  to  be  his  guest.  I  sa^Y  no  way  by  Avhicli  I 
could  accept  his  generous  proposition  consistently  "with  the 
duties  -which  I  o-wed  to  my  church  and  congregation  ;  but, 
■with  a  spirit  of  liberality  and  affection  which  I  can  never 
forget,  they  urged  my  acceptance  of  so  fine  an  occasion  to 
visit  portions  of  the  world  rarely  accessible  to  American 
tourists,  and  I  concluded  to  join  the  party.  My  friends 
generally  suggested  that  the  excursion  would  afford  suf- 
ficient interest  to  warrant  a  record.  My  excellent  pub- 
lishers, Messrs.  Gould  and  Lincoln,  at  once  claimed  a  volume; 
and,  finding  that  my  fellow-voyagers  wished  for  a  memorial 
of  our  four  hajDpy  months  spent  in  the  North  Star,  I  have 
consented  to  chronicle  the  movements  of  the  most  agreeable 
association  of  my  life.  I  know  that  books  of  Travels  have 
multiplied  of  late  with  fearful  rapidity ;  but  still  the  vast 
amount  of  readers  in  our  country  creates  a  steady  demand 
for  such  publications. 

A  book  of  travels  that  contains  reliable  and  interesting 
information  has  a  good  tendency,  I  remember  Avith  pleas- 
ure my  own  boyish  gratification  in  reading  Mavor's  fine 
collection  of  voyages  and  travels ;  that  set  of  books  gave  a 
turn  to  my  future  life,  and  a  large  share  of  my  happiness 


PREFACE.  VII 

maj  be  traced  back  to  the  influences  produced  on  nij  mind 
by  the  perusal  of  such  -works.  It  is  a  great  thing  to  excite 
the  intellect  of  a  lad  in  a  right  direction.  When  I  was 
about  nine  yenrs  of  ap;e,  I  used  to  pass  many  delicious 
hours  in  a  cobbler's  stall,  not  eight  feet  square,  listening  to 
his  stories  about  the  American  revolutionary  war,  and  the 
wars  of  the  English  and  French  in  Canada.  I  made  my 
earliest  acquaintance  with  Lake  George,  Ticonderoga  and 
Niagara  Falls,  by  the  side  of  the  old  man's  lapstone,  whilst 
he  told  me  how  fields  were  won;  and  Cobbler  Hunt's 
stories  about  Indians  and  lakes,  beavers  and  buflFaloes, 
swans  and  flamingoes,  had  much  to  do  with  creating  a  desire 
to  know  more  of  the  scenes  of  his  exploits  and  adventures. 
This  world  is  full  of  beauty,  and  it  teems  with  wonders ; 
and  I  never  see  a  fresh  portion  of  God's  earth,  but  I  feel 
some  respect  for  the  old  gentleman's  opinion,  who,  on  going 
from  INIaine  to  Albany  for  the  first  time  that  he  had  left 
his  native  state,  declared,  on  his  return,  that  the  world  was 
more  extensive  than  he  had  supposed.  There  is  much  to 
see  wherever  we  turn,  if  our  eyes  are  opened.  All  men 
have  their  own  peculiar  taste ;  and  in  a  party  of  three  or 
four  visiting  a  foreign  city,  each  member  of  it  will  see 
things  in  a  different  point  of  light.     I  believe   that  few 


VIII  PREFACE. 

persons  have  enjoyed  so  fine  an  opportunity  to  visit  the 
coast  of  Europe  as  we  had  who  formed  the  North  Star 
party ;  and  I  hope  that  a  plain  narrative  of  the  excursion, 
■which  has  excited  so  much  interest  at  home  and  abroad, 
may  prove  useful  and  entertaining.  Those  of  our  country- 
men who  were  in  Europe  this  summer  are  well  aware  that 
the  presence  of  the  steam  yacht  in  foreign  ports  was  to 
them  the  occasion  of  justifiable  pride ;  while  to  foreigners 
she  was  the  fruitful  theme  of  admiration  and  reflection. 

John  Overton  Choules. 

Newport,  R.  I.,  Jan.  9,  1854. 


CouteiitB. 


CHAPTER    I. 

ORIGIN  OF   THE  YACHT  VOYAGE VARIOUS    IDEAS    AS    TO    ITS    OBJECT MR. 

VANDERBILT'S    exact    arrangement DESCRIPTION    OF     NORTH    STAR 

HER     INTERNAL     ARRANGEMENTS FURNITURE,    ETC.  COMMANDER   ASA 

ELDRIDGE,  ESQ. OFFICERS    AND   CRE-W, 17 

CHAPTER    II. 

READY     TO     SAIL ALL    ON    BOARD    19    MAY YACHT    RUNS     ON  A  REEF 

NAVY-YARD     AND     DRY     DOCK REPAIRS     SOON     MADE DEPARTURE    20 

MAY PILOT     LEFT     YACHT MUSTER-ROLL     OF     THE     PARTY FAMILY 

WORSHIP EMOTIONS    OF    VOYAGERS SAFETY,  NOT  SPEED,  THE   RULE 

STRIKE     OF    FIREMEN GREEN     HANDS DIVINE    SERVICE LAND-BIRD 

CONCERTS GREAT   RUN  OF  THREE    HUNDRED    AND    FORTT-FOUR  MILES 

COMFORT  AND    LUXURY  OF  VOYAGE MR.  VANDERBILT'S    COURTESY 

PILOT CHANNEL, 25 


CHAPTER    III. 

SOUTHAMPTON SCENERY HISTORICAL     ASSOCIATIONS STEAM     PACKET 

COMPANIES HIGH-STREET AMERICAN  VICE-CONSUL,  MR.  COX DOCKS 

STEAMERS REV.    THOMAS    ADKINS ARRIVE    IN    LONDON QUEEN'S 

DRAWING-BOOM OBJECTS  OF  CURIOSITY,  ETC. HYDE  PARK KEN- 
SINGTON GARDENS regent's  PARK VISITS  TO  WESTMINSTER  AND  OTH- 
ER PUBLIC  PLACES WINDSOR HAMPTON    COURT BRISTOL CLIi  TON 

AND  VICINAGE TINTERN HENBURY    AND   COTTAGES LOCAL  SCENERY 

BERKELEY  CASTLE GLOUCESTER CHELTENHAM ENGLISH  COUNTRl 

SCENERY, 33 


CONTENTS. 


CHAPTER    IV. 

HON.  AND   KEV.  BAPTIST   NOEL MR.  GEORGE    PEABODY OPERA DINNER 

AT     RICHMOND HON.      STEPHEN     A.      DOUGLAS RECEPTION-NIGHT     AT 

HON.  J.  E.  INGERSOLL'S,  THE  AMERICAN  MINISTER THE  LORD  MAY- 
OR'S   SOIREE MR.  DEPUTY  BENOCH THOMAS    PRICE,  LL.D. TOOVEY'S 

BOOKSTORE DEPUTATION     FROM     SOUTHAMPTON  TONE     OF     ENGLISH 

FEELING     TOWARDS     THE     UNITED    STATES AN     ENGLISH     TRAVELLER 

STREET  AMUSEMENTS SCENE    IN   AN    OMNIBUS, 46 

CHAPTER  V. 

INTEREST    EXCITED    BY    ARRIVAL    OF    THE    NORTH    STAR LONDON    DAILY 

NEWS DULWICH    GALLERY MK.    THOMAS    COLLEY    GRATTAN A  QUICK 

TRIP    TO    LEIPSIC OUR   RETURN    TO    SOUTHAMPTON VISIT   TO    NETLEY 

ABBEY HISTORICAL  NOTICE  —  SCENERY REV.  DR.  KREBBS EXCUR- 
SIONS  REV.  ALEXANDER   MACLAREN SERVICES    OF    THE    SABBATH,      57 

CHAPTER    VI. 

JUNE   13,    THE     BANQUET   AT   SOUTHAMPTON CARD    OF     INVITATION AP- 
PEARANCE  OF  TOWN VICTORIA   ROOMS JLiYOR DINNER ACCOUNT 

OF    PROCEEDINGS     AND     SPEECHES    IN     THE     HAMPSHIRE    INDEPENDENT 

EXCURSION      OF     THE     NORTH   STAB,    WITH     THE     MAYOR     AND     INVITED 

GUESTS,    ROUND     THE   ISLE     OF    WIGHT DINNER    ON     BOARD ACCOUNT 

TAKEN   FROM   THE    HAMPSHIRE   INDEPENDENT, 69 

CHAPTER    VII. 

VOYAGE COAST  OF    NORWAY KRONBORG    CASTLE  AND    ELSINORE SHIPS 

IN   THE   SOUND COPENHAGEN BORNHOLM   AND    OLAND   ISLANDS  DR. 

LINSLY MIRAGE DAGO   ISLAND STEAMER    NEPTUNE CBONSTADT 

FORTIFICATIONS DOCKS SHIPPING  PUBLIC    BUILDINGS  CHOLERA 

PETERHOFF WOODS VAUXHALL    HOTEL MAKLY  AND    MONTPLAISIR 

PETER  THE  GREAT HIS  HOUSE FURNITURE COTTAGE  OF  CATHE- 
RINE  A  RIDE  THROUGH  THE  GROUNDS WATER-WOEKS,  ETC. PETER- 
HOFF   IMPERIAL  P.U.ACE IMPERIAL  YACHT,  AND   GRAND  DUKE   CONSTAN- 

TINE  ADMIRAL    GLASSENOFF  MR.    MULLER  MINIATURE    PALACE  — 

COSSACKS, 108 


CONTENTS.  XI 


•  CHAPTER    VIII. 

SJIALL  STEAMER DRESS  OP  OFFICERS VIEW  OF  ST.    PETERSBURG QUEER 

PROCESSION HOTELS POLITENESS -^ MR.  ROPES,  U.  S.  CONSUL SUM- 
MER ISLANDS PETER  THE  GREAT'S  FIRST  HOUSE THE  CITY ADMI- 
RALTY  STATUE    OF    PETER NEFFSKY    PERSPECTIVE SERFS VIEW   OF 

CITY  BY  MOONLIGHT WINTER  PALACE  AND  ITS  DEPARTMENTS RE- 
GALIA  THE     HERMITAGE PAINTINGS     OF     DIFFERENT     SCHOOLS THE 

LOGGIE PETER'S    MUSEUM PRECIOUS    STONES HOROLOGE WREATHS 

AND  LAURELS  FROM  CHERSONESUS MARBLE  PALACE ALEXANDER  PIL- 
LAR    MR.     EVANS  MONASTERY     OF    ALEXANDER    NEFFSKY ENGLISH 

CHURCH KESAU     CATHEDR.Ui ITS      INTERIOR     AND     SERVICE ISAAC 

CHURCH, 121 

CHAPTER    IX. 

MAJOR     THOMPSON    BROWN  DROSKYS WEDDING  GOSTINNOI    DVOR  

STREETS  —  MILITARY FAREWELL      TO      ST.      PETERSBURG  RETURN    TO 

THE     YACHT  VISITORS  REGATTA  CRONSTADT  MR.     WILKINS  

DANGEROUS    POSITION VISIT     FROM     GRAND     DUCHESS    OF    OLDENBURGH 

AND    FAMILY STEAMBOAT  PARTY  AND    IMPERIAL  BAND THE   EMPEROR 

QUEEN   DOWAGER   OF   HOLLAND  —  NARROW   ESCAPE, 141 

CHAPTER    X. 

VOYAGE COPENHAGEN THORWALDSEn'S    MUSEUM FRUEKIRKE THOR- 

WALDSEN'S    CHRIST    AND    HIS    APOSTLES THE   SCULPTOR ROSENBERGII 

PALACE ITS    RICH    COLLECTIONS    OF    ART COINS    AND    MEDALS PARK 

STATUARY  COUNTRY  EXCHANGE  GALLERIES   AMALIENBORG 

PLADS SONG   OF  THE   WATCHMAN, 149 

CHAPTER   XI. 

OFF  FOR  HAVRE SCENERY  OF  THE  SOUND ISLE  OF  HUEN TYCHO  BRAKE 

NORWAY    AND    SWEDEN GODWIN    SANDS    LIGHT-SHIP DOVER    AND 

WALMER     CASTLES HAVRE STEAMER    FRANKLIN  MR.    VESEY,    U.    S. 

CONSUL THE    TOWN HISTORICAL    INCIDENTS INGOUVILLE LEAVE 

FOB   PARIS  —  ROUEN,  POISSY,  ETC., 158 


XII  CONTENTS. 


CHAPTER    XII. 

HOTELS HON.  S.  Q.  GOODRICH AMERICAN    CLERGY    IN    EUROPE REVIEW 

REV.  ROBERT   LOVETT   AND   HJS    CHAPEL CONFERENCE    OF   AMERICANS 

METHODIST    CUAPEL LOUVRE J.'VRDIN   DES    PLANTES PALAIS    DE 

JUSTICE FLQWER-JIARKET HOTEL   DE   CLUGNY ENGLISH    FRIENDS  

VERSAILLES GARDEN    OF    THE   TUILLERIES  AND    CHAMPS-ELTS^ES PONT 

KEUF  AND  OLD    PARTS  OF    PARIS HOTEL   DE   VILLE — CHURCHES ROYAL 

LIBRARY  GOBELINS  ST.     DENIS  NEUILLY  CHAPELLE    ST.    FERDI- 
NAND  CHAPELLE   EXPIATOIRE FONTAINEBLEAU,        165 


CHAPTER    XIII. 

REV.    J.    R.     PEAKE NAPOLEON'S     TOMB     IN     THE     HOTEL     DES     INVALIDE3 

LOUIS     PHILIPPE DESCRIPTION     OF    THE    CRYPT GALLERY,  ETC. 

MOSAICS  CARYATIDES  SARCOPHAGUS  RELIQUARY  ALTAR       AND 

BALDAQUIN GUIDE CLIMATE     OF    PARIS OVERTURES    MADE    TO    MR. 

VANDERBILT WOODMAN      AND     FORR RAILROAD     TO      ROUEN  HIS- 
TORIC     NOTICE POPULATION    OF    ROUEN CATHEDRAL INTERIOR 

MONUMENTS  • —  RICHARD    CCEUR    DE   LION,    ETC. ABBEY    OF   ST.    OUEN 

PALACE  OF  JUSTICE JOAN    OF    ARC CORNEILLE ENGLISH  CHURCH 

VISITORS, 18G 


CHAPTER    XIV. 

VOYAGE     RESUMED BAY     OF     BISCAY  VIGO     BAY LOSS      OF     ROBERT 

OGDEN     FLINT ROCK     OF     LISBON CAPE     ST.    VINCENT TRAFALGAR 

TARIFA  COAST     OF     AFRICA  ROCK   OF    GIBRALTAR MALAGA 

QUARANTINE WATERING VISITORS    FROM    SHORE FUNERAL   SERMON 

CATHEDRAL BEGGARS    IN    THE    STREETS A   PRETTY    BOY     AND     A 

STRONG    RESEMBLANCE JOSE    CUBERO PRIEST   WITH    BELL    AND    BOX 

BULL   RING REV.    CHARLES    BRERETON BISHOP    OF    BARCELONA 

CALECHE3     AND     DRIVERS RIDE     TO      MR.      DELIUS'     VILLA     AND    VINE- 
YARDS   ALAMEDA MULETEERS  MR.     CONSUL    SMITH HARBOR     OF 

MALAGA, 199 


CONTENTS.  XIII 

CHAPTER    XV. 

OFF   FOR  LEGHORN CARTIIAGENA IVICA  —  MAJORCA MINORCA COR- 
SICA    SCEKERY GORGONA  LEGHORN  HOTEL    ST.     MARCO FREE 

PORT OPERA SCOTCH  FREE  CHURCH SERVICE  ON  SABBATH  —  STREETS 

ADMIRABLY  PAVED EVENING  SERVICE THE  PARSONAGE-HOUSE GOS- 
PEL   IN    ITALY, 211 

CHAPTER    XYI. 

ARRIVE     AT     FLORENCE HOTEL     D'ITALIE RIDE  CITY      AND     STREETS, 

ETC. PITTI  PALACE PICTURES CANOVA'S  VENUS DUKE'S  APART- 
MENTS  MUSEU3I POWERS     AND     HART POWERS'     STUDIO     AND     HIS 

WORK hart's     STUDIO BUSTS     OF     AMERICAN'S STATUE     OP     HENRY 

CLAY UFFIZII  GALLERY STATUARY TRIBUNE VENUS  DE  MEDICI 

KNIFE-GRIxNDER,  ETC. TITIAn'S  VENUSES RAPHAEL'S  PICTURES,  ETC. 

NIOBE RUBENS POWELL'S  DE  SOTO,  ETC.  CATHEDRAL CAMPANILE 

BAPTISTERY SANTO  CROCE CHAPEL    OF    THE    MEDICI ST.  LORENZO 

SACRISTY MICHAEL   ANGELO'S    DAY    AND    MGHT PALAZZO    A-ECCHIO 

DUCAL    PIAZZA STATUARY, 218 

CHAPTER    XVII. 

SANTA  MARIA  NOVELLA  PAINTINGS SPEZIERIA RESIDENCE  OF  MICHAEL 

ANGELO CHURCH    OF    THE    ANNUNCIATION THE     CASCINE SCENERY 

MOUNTAINS THE  BRIDGES FRIENDS  IN  FLORENCE OLIVER  CROM- 
WELL'S    PORTRAIT IMPRESSIONS     OF    FLORENCE LEAVE    FOR   PISA 

THE  CITY LEANING  TOWER CATHEDRAL CAMPO  SANTO THE  BAP- 
TISTERY  SANTA  MARIA  DELLA  SPINA THE  CAMELS  —  LEGHORN GOV- 
ERNMENT  ALARMED    AT    OUR    YACHT VISITORS,   ETC., 233 

CHAPTER    XVIII. 

LEAVE   LEGHORN    FOR    CIVITA    VECCUIA HARBOR DIFFICULTIES    ON    OUR 

WAY DISAPPOINTMENT  VOYAGE     RESUMED  SEE    ST.    PETER'S    AFAR 

OFF ISCHIA PROCEDA  BAIA,  ETC.  BRIDGE  OF  CALIGULA NA- 
PLES   THE  BAY RENEWED  DISAPPOINTMENT SWIMJrERS LADY  MOR- 
GAN  VESUVIUS,  ETC. CAPRI  AND    SUNSET STROMBOLI  AND  ^TNA 

CAPE   FARO,    OR    PELORUS SCYLLA EARTHQUAKE    OF    IVSO  —  MESSINA 

SCENERY    OF    THE     STRAITS RHEGIUM  MOUNT     ^TNA  SYRACUSE 

CAPE    PASSARO MALTA, 244 

2 


XIV  CONTENTS. 

CHAPTER    XIX. 

HARBOE ARABS ALLOWED     TO    LAND VISIT     FROM     MR.    CONSUL   WIN- 

THROP DIVERS HISTORICAL  NOTICE YALETTA THE  RACES  —  MAL- 
TESE    BOATS INVITATION     FROM     THE     GO^'ERNOR    TO    TAKE   DINNER 

INVITATIONS     FROM     THE     OFFICERS     OF     THE     GARRISON VISIT    TO    SIR 

WILLIAM   REID GOVERNOR'S    PALACE MR.  "WINTHROP'S    RESIDENCE 

MSS.    OF     ITALIAN      OPERAS  CAPTAIN     THOMAS     GRAVES,    R.N. CITTA 

VECCHIA SHOPS THE    GOVERNOR    AND    SUITE    VISIT    THE    YACHT ST. 

JOHN'S    CHURCH WALLS    OF     THE     CITADEL COUNTRY    PEOPLE COS- 
TUME   FORTS     ANQELO,     RICASOLI,     MANOEL,     TIQNfe    AND     ST.     ELMO 

TURKISH   SIEGE    IN    15G5 DEPART   FOR    CONSTANTINOPLE, 2-56 


CHAPTER    XX. 

MOREA CERIGO CAPE  COLONNA TENEDOS PLAINS  OF  TROY ENGLISH 

AND     FRENCH     FLEETS SIG^UM HELLESPONT DARDANELLES CAS- 
TLES   OF   EUROPE    AND   ASIA PROPONTIS,    OR   SEA    OF    MARMORA FIRST 

VIEW    OF    STAMBOUL SCENERY ANCHORAGE    OFF    PERA MR.    BROWN 

AND    OTHER   VISITORS VISIT    TO     PERA,    GALATA    AND     T0PIL4.NA SUL- 

TAN'S    NEW    PALACE GULLS SULTAN'S    FIRMAN SERAGLIO ATMEI- 

DAN,    OR   HIPPODROME SUBLIME    PORTE LIBRARY ANCIENT    ARMOB 

MOSQUE   OF   ST.    SOPHIA HISTORICAL    NOTICE,    ETC., 275 


CHAPTER    XXI. 

MOSQUE    OF    ACHMET MUZZEIN'S     CALL COSTUMES     OF    THE    JANISSARIES 

REV.  MR.  BENJAMIN TOMB  OF  SULTAN  M.\HMOUD BAZ.iARS SHOP- 
PING  VISIT  TO   THE   ENGLISH  YACHT   SYLPHIDE TURKISH    VISITORS 

AMERICAN      MISSIONARIES EXCURSION      TO     SCUTARI HOWLING     DER- 
VISHES   CEMETERY WEDDING BULGURLU SCENERY CHALCEDON 

—  A    KIOSK HOUSE     IN     WHICH     THE     LATE     SULTAN     DIED SOLDIERS 

COMING     IN     FROM     ASIA DARK    RIDE SAIL     TO     BEBEK AFFECTING 

INCIDENT VILLAGE    OF     BEBEK MISSION     PREMISES EDUCATION    OF 

BOYS    IN    MECHANICAL   ARTS PERSECUTION MR.  HAMLIN ARMENIAN 

PRIEST THE    FAMILY  CIRCLE "LIGHT   ON   THE   DARK  RIVER" MISS 

LOVELL MR.    MINASIAN, 289 


CONTEXTS.  XV 

CHAPTER  XXII. 

SULTAN  GOING  TO  MOSQUE CAIQUES A  STEAMBOAT  CHARTEEED EX- 
CURSION UP  THE  BOSPHORUS  —  EUROPEAN  BANK TURKISH  AND  EGYP- 
TIAN   FLEET STMPLEGADES BLACK    SEA ASIATIC    COAST LAND    AT 

KANDALI RETURN     TO    YACHT DEPARTURE    FROM     CONSTANTINOPLE 

VOYAGE     TO     GIBRALTAR AKRIVAL     AT     THE     ROCK APPEARANCE     OF 

ROCK    AND    TOWN THE    METHODIST     CHAPEL REV.    W.    H.    BIDWELL 

STREETS   AND    MARKETS SHOPS    AND    GOODS EXCURSION   TO    THE    ROCK 

ENGLISH     OFFICERS ST.      GEORGE'S     HALL ST.     MICHAEL'S     CAVE 

MONKEYS DINNER   AT    MR.    SPBAGUE'S HISTORICAL    NOTICES SMUG- 
GLERS     SHOT PROFFERED     HOSPITALITIES EXCURSION     TO     THE     CORK 

WOODS "CHARLEY,"     THE    MOORISH     MERCHANT DINNER    WITH     THE 

FORTY-FOURTH    REGIMENT VISITORS    TO    THE    YACHT, 304 

CHAPTER    XXIII. 

LEAVE  GIBRALTAR TANGIER SAIL  FOR  MADEIRA PORTO  SANTO MA- 
DEIRA  FUNCHAL,  AND    ITS   ASPECT LANDING   IN   THE   SURF HISTORIC 

NOTICE LEGEND    OF    JLVCHIM OBSERVATIONS    ON   FUNCHAL CATHOLIC 

INTOLERANCE MANNERS    OF    PEOPLE EXCURSION    TO    THE    CHURCH    OP 

OUR     LADY      OF     THE     MOUNT SCENERY  A     MIRACLE MR.      GEORGE 

BROWN BEGGARS ARTICLES    FOR    SALE YATES'    HOTEL HIS    STUDY 

CLIMATE SIR     JAMES     CLARK     AND     LEIGH     HUNT  POPULATION 

BOARDING- HOUSES MODES    OF   TRAVEL SHOPS THE    BOY-BEGGARS 

BLAST  OF  THE  VINEYARDS THE   VINE WINES  OF    THE    ISLAND FRUITS 

AND   VEGETABLES  —  TREES    AND    FLOWERS BIRDS FISH DEPARTURE, 

325 
CHAPTER    XXIV. 

LEAVE     FUNCHAL APPEARANCE     OF     THE     ISLAND SKIRT     THE    SHORE 

ROUGH    WEATHER LIVE    STOCK A    WRECK    DISCOVERED FLYING-FISH 

SANDY  HOOK SALUTATIONS  ON  ARRIVAL SUMJLARY  OF  THE  VOYAGE 

OUR     OBLIGATIONS      TO      MR.     AND     MRS.    VANDERBILT CAPTAIN     EL- 

DRIDGE    AND    HIS    OFFICERS THE    VOYAGE   A   SOURCE    OF    PRIDE    TO    THE 

COUNTRY, 346 


fist  ^f  |Ilttstniti0n.s. 


LIKENESS  OF   COKNELIUS  VANDERBILT, Frostispikce. 

STEAM  YACIIT  NORTH   STAR, Title-page. 

LIKENESS  OF   CAPTAIN   ASA  E1.DRIDGE, p.   22 

ST.  VINCENT  ROCKS,   CLIFTON, 40 

HENBURY   COTTAGES,      42,45 

ST.   PETERSBURG,   FROM  THE   ENGLISH   QUAY, 12S 

GRAND  ENTRANCE  TO  THE  CRYPT,  AND  VIEW  OF  NAPOLEON'S  TOMB,   189 

MOSAICS  ON   PASSAGE-FLOOR  LEADING  TO  THE  TOMB, 190 

ROUEN, 193 

LEGHORN, 212 

PALAZZO  VECCHIO,   FLORENCE, 230 

VALETTA,  FROM   SLIEMA, 258 

MALTESE   COUNTRY   MAN    AND   "WOMAN, 269 

CONSTANTINOPLE, '. 2S0 

GIBRALTAR,   FROM   THE  SPANISH   SIDE, .311 

FUNCHAL,   FROM   THE   SEA, 327 


CHAPTER    I. 

ORIGIN  OF    THE  YACHT  VOYAGE VARIOUS    IDEAS    AS    TO    ITS    OBJECT MR. 

\rA.NDERBILT'S    EXACT    ARRANGEMEXT DESCRIPTION    OF     NORTH    STAR 

Kin     INTERNAL     ARRANGEMENTS FURNITURE,    ETC.  COMMANDER   ASA 

ELDRIDGE,    ESQ. OFFICERS    AND    CREW. 

Early  in  the  spring  of  the  present  year,  the  attention  of  the 
country  was  directed  to  an  item  in  the  daily  papers  of  New  York, 
containing  information  that  Mr.  Vanderbilt  was  constructing  a 
steam-ship  of  hirge  dimensions,  which  he  intended  as  a  yacht 
for  the  accommodation  of  his  family  and  some  invited  friends 
ia  a  voyage  to  the  principal  sea-ports  in  Europe.  The  announce- 
ment of  this  project  excited  a  deep  interest  in  the  public  mind, 
and  the  excursion  became  a  prominent  subject  of  conversation. 

Mr.  Vanderbilt  was  known  to  his  countrymen  as  a  thoroughly 
practical  man,  whose  energy  and  perseverance,  combined  with 
strong  intellect  and  high  commercial  integrity,  had  given  him 
immense  wealth ;  all  his  undertakings  had  been  crowned  with 
signal  success,  and  his  great  enterprise  in  opening  a  communica- 
tion with  the  Pacific  by  the  Nicaragua  route  had  made  him  a 
reputation  in  Europe ;  and  a  general  expectation  existed  that  he 
would  carry  out  his  plan  in  a  manner  that  would  redound  to  the 
honor  of  the  country.  Various  opinions  were  entertained  as  to 
his  ultimate  designs.  Many  imagined  that  Mr  Vanderbilt  pro- 
posed to  effect  some  great  mercantile  operation,  —  he  was  to  sell 
his  ship  to  this  monarch,  or  that  government,  —  or,  he  was  to 
take  contracts  for  the  supply  of  war  steamers ;  all  sorts  of  specu- 
lations were  entertained  by  that  generally  misinformed  character, 
—  the  public.  In  February  I  was  sitting  with  Mr.  Vanderbilt 
2* 


18  ME.  vanderbilt's  object. 

in  his  library,  when  he  gave  me  the  first  information  I  h:id 
received  of  his  intentions,  and  he  kindly  invited  me  and  my 
wife  to  accompany  him  to  Europe  in  the  month  of  May.  The 
ship  was  then  on  the  stocks,  but  he  named  the  very  day  on  which 
he  should  sail,  and  gave  me  the  details  of  his  proposed  route, 
and  from  which  few  deviations  were  afterwards  made,  Mr.  V. 
expressly  informed  me  that  his  sole  object  was  to  gratify  his 
family  and  afford  himself  an  opportunity  to  see  the  coast  of 
Europe,  which  he  could  do  in  no  other  way ;  and  he  observed 
that,  after  more  than  thirty  years' devotion  to  business,  in  all 
which  period  he  had  known  no  rest  from  labor,  he  felt  that  he 
had  a  right  to  a  complete  holiday. 

The  following  description  of  the  j^acht  appeared  in  the  Illus- 
trated Neivs,  published  in  New  York,  April  9, 1853,  and  I  select 
it  for  my  present  purpose,  as  it  is,  I  believe,  strictly  correct : 

"  MR.    VAXDERBILt's    STEAJI    YACHT. 

"  The  latest  enterprise  in  the  way  of  steam  vessels,  with  which 
Mr.  Vanderbilt  has  had  any  connection,  is  the  construction  of 
a  yacht,  for  private  purposes,  to  be  propelled  by  steam.  This 
vessel  is  called  the  '  North  Star,'  and  was  lately  launched  at 
New  York.  She  is  to  leave  on  a  cruise  to  the  east  about  the 
middle  of  May.  Mr.  Vanderbilt  goes  out  in  her,  with  some 
thirty  or  forty  ladies  and  gentlemen,  his  friends.  We  believe 
he  intends  to  land  first  at  Southampton,  then  go  round  to  London. 
From  there  the  trip  is  to  be  extended,  first  up  the  Baltic  to  St. 
Petersburg,  and  then  return,  and  go  up  the  Mediterranean, 
calling  at  Gibraltar,  Naples,  Malta  and  Athens,  visiting  Con- 
stantinople and  Alexandria.  What  will  the  wealthy  noblemen  of 
England  —  the  proprietors  of  sailing  yachts  of  fifty  and  a  hundred 
tons  —  say  to  a  citizen  of  the  United  States  appearing  in  their 
Avatcrs  with  a  steamship  yacht  of  twenty-five  hundred  tons  burthen ; 
a  vessel  large  enough  to  carr^^  the  armament  of  a  British  seventy- 


DESCEIPTION    OF    NORTH    STAR.  19 

four?  Wc  have  shown  our  transatlantic  cousins  one  trample  of 
yachting,  about  which  we  do  not  care  to  boMst.  Droppiiig  the 
past,  we  are  sure  the  English  nobility  and  gentry  will  give  the 
gallant  '  commodore  '  a  reception  commensurate  with  his  rank-  as 
a  merchant  prince,  —  one  who  goes  abroad  in  a  style  not  inferior 
to  their  own  youthful  sovereigns.  We  predict  a  sensation,  at  the 
appearance  of  this  vessel  in  Europe,  second  to  that  of  no  arrival 
they  have  ever  had  from  any  quarter  of  the  globe. 

"  The  North  Star  has  been  built  under  the  immediate  supervision 
of  her  owner,  whose  principal  object  has  been  to  combine  beauty 
of  model  with  strength  and  durability  ;  and,  although  connois- 
seurs in  naval  architecture  bespeak  for  her  a  speed  equal  to  any 
of  our  sea  steamers,  yet  it  has  not  been  so  much  the  design  of 
icr  owner  to  produce  the  fastest  vessel  afloat,  as  a  noble  specimen 
of  American  mechanical  skill.  Her  boilers  and  the  principal 
part  of  her  engines  are  on  board,  and  she  will  in  a  few  weeks 
be  ready  to  sail  for  Southampton. 

"  To  her  builder,  Mr.  Simonson,  too  much  praise  cannot  be 
awarded  for  the  care  and  skill  he  has  displayed  in  the  construc- 
tion of  this  noble  ship ;  which,  apart  from  the  beauty  of  her 
model,  is  probably  the  strongest  fastened  vessel  of  her  tonnage 
afloat.  She  is  260  feet  on  the  keel,  270  feet  on  the  spar  deck, 
38  breadth  of  beam,  13  feet  from  floor  timber  to  lower  deck  beams, 
7  feet  8  inches  between  decks,  7  feet  6  inches  between  main  and 
spar  decks,  making  her  whole  depth  28  feet  6  inches.  Her  keel,  of 
white  oak,  is  15  inches  sided  by  14  inches  wide,  stem  and  stern 
posts  of  the  same  material,  with  double  aprons,  and  inner  posts  of 
live  oak,  bolted  through  with  If  copper  bolts,  deadwoods  of  white 
oak  and  13  inches  through,  fastened  with  1;^  inch  copper  bolts, 
in  the  most  substantial  manner.  The  floor  timbers  are  sided  12 
inches,  and  moulded  13  inches,  being  placed  close  together,  and 
bolted  through  sideways  with  1;^  inch  bolts.  The  main  kelsons, 
of  which  there  arc  five  rows  extending  the  entire  length  of  the 
ship,  are  of  white   oak,  sided   15  inches  by  32  inches  deep,  the 


20  DESCRIPTION    OF    NORTH    STAR. 

first  tier  being  fastened  by  two  copper  bolts  1^  inches  in  diameter, 
through  every  floor  timber,  the  upper  tiers  secured  to  the  lower 
one  with  large  iron  bolts.  The  bed  upon  which  the  engine  rests 
is  composed  of  four  rows  of  kelsons,  2  feet  2  inches  by  5  feet 
deep,  secured  by  iron  screw  bolts  driven  from  the  bottom  before 
the  vessel  was  planked.  The  outside  planking  of  white  oak,  34 
inches  thick,  increasing  to  5  inches,  is  secured  with  copper  bolts 
and  locust  trenails,.there  being  32,000  of  the  latter  driven  through 
and  wedged  upon  both  sides.  There  are  six  bilge  streaks  on  the 
inside  of  the  ship,  covering  the  floor  heads  and  futtocks  12  by  14 
inches,  fastened  to  the  timbers  with  iron  bolts,  and  bolted  edge- 
lays  between  every  frame. 

"The  ceiling  is  of  six-inch  yellow  pine,  and  bolted  in  the  same 
manner  as  the  bilge  streak,  forming  one  substantial  mass  of 
timber  14  feet  in  depth.  The  lower  deck  clamps,  on  which  the 
beams  rest,  are  7  inches  thick,  thoroughly  fastened  with  iron 
bolts  driven  from  the  outside,  and  riveted  on  the  inside. 

"  There  are  45  deck  beams  in  the  lower  deck,  with  carlines 
between,  sided  15  inches  and  moulded  14  inches,  with  lodging  and 
bosom  knees  of  white  oak,  and  a  largo  hanging  knee  on  each  end. 
The  water  ways  on  top  of  the  lower  deck  are  composed  of  three 
pieces,  extending  the  whole  length  of  the  ship,  thoroughly  bolted, 
—  making  this  deck  sufiiciently  strong  to  stand  any  reasonable 
strain.  The  clamps  to  support  the  main  deck  are  of  yellow 
pine,  6  inches  thick  and  14  inches  wide,  of  two  widths.  This 
deck  is  securely  kneed,  in  the  same  manner  as  the  lower  one. 
The  stanchions,  which  extend  from  the  floor  timbers  to  the  lower 
deck  beams,  have  a  large  bolt  passing  through  them,  and  are 
continued  on  to  the  upper  decks,  thus  connecting  the  deck  with 
the  bottom  of  the  ship.  The  lower  and  main  deck  plank  are 
of  white  pine,  3  by  5  inches;  the  upper  or  spar  deck  extending 
the  entire  length  of  the  ship. 

"  Her  machinery  is  from  the  Allaire  works.  She  will  be  pro- 
pelled by  two  lever  beam  engines :  cylinders,  60  inches  ;  length 


IIBR   INTERNAL   ARRANGEMENTS.  21 

of  stroke,  10  feet;  diameter  of  wheels,  34  feet.  Her  boilers,  of 
which  she  has  four,  are  21  feet  long,  10  feet  diameter,  llj-  feet 
front,  11  feet  high,  with  single  return  flues. 

"  Her  cabins  and  interior  arrangements  combine  all  that  is 
required  to  insure  comfort  and  elegance. 

"  The  Staten  Islander  of  the  20th  of  May,  speaking  of  the 
yacht,  stated  that  '  the  main  saloon  is  splendidly  fitted  up  with 
all  that  can  tend  to  gratify  the  eye  and  minister  to  luxurious 
ease.  The  state-rooms,  which  lead  from  it  on  either  side,  are 
fitted  up  in  the  first  style  of  the  upholsterer's  art.  The  furniture 
throughout  blends  in  one  harmonious  whole ;  there  are  none  of 
those  glaring  contrasts  which  are  too  often  met  with,  and  offend 
the  eye  and  taste  by  their  incongruities.  Tliis  saloon  is  of  beau- 
tiful satin-wood,  with  just  sufficient  rosewood  to  relieve  it,  the 
work  of  which  was  executed  by  Mr.  Charles  Simonson.  The 
cabinet  furniture  and  upholstery  were  furnished  from  the  exten- 
sive establishment  of  Messrs.  J.  &  J.  W.  Weeks.  The  furniture 
of  the  main  saloon  is  of  rosewood,  carved  in  the  splendid  style  of 
Louis  XV.,  covered  with  a  new  and  elegant  material  of  figured 
velvet  plush,  with  a  green  ground  filled  with  bouquets  of  flowers. 
It  consists  of  two  sofas,  four  couches,  six  arm-chairs.  Con- 
nected with  this  saloon  are  ten  state-rooms,  superbly  fitted  up, 
each  with  a  French  armour  le  gies,  beautifully  enamelled  in  white, 
with  a  large  glass  door  —  size  of  plate,  forty  by  sixty-four  inches. 
The  berths  are  furnished  with  elegant  silk  lambricans  and  lace 
curtains.  Each  room  is  fitted  up  with  a  different  color,  namely, 
green  and  gold,  crimson  and  gold,  orange,  &c.  The  toilet  furni- 
ture matches  with  the  hangings  and  fittings,  b}^  being  of  tlic 
same  colors,  and  presents  a  picture  of  completeness  not  often  met 
with.  The  saloon  and  state-rooms  are  kept  at  a  pleasant  tem- 
perature by  one  of  Van  Horn's  steam  heaters,  which  occupies 
the  centre  of  the  caljin.  It  is  a  beautiful  specimen  of  bronze 
trcUis-work,  with  marble  top,  and  has  richly  burnished  gilding. 
The  tapestry  carpet  is  one  of  gorgeous  pattern.     Forward  of 


22  FUKNITURE,    ETC. 

saloou  is  a  magnificent  dining-saloon.  This  is  fitted  up  in  a  style 
entirely  new  to  sea-going  vessels.  The  walls  are  covered  with  a 
preparation  of  ligneous  marble,  polished  to  a  degree  of  mirror-like 
brightness  that  marble  is  incapable  of  receiving.  The  panels  are 
of  Naples  granite,  the  style  of  Breschia  jasper,  and  the  surface  of 
yellow  Pyrenees  marble.  The  ceiling  of  this  room  is  in  panels 
painted  white,  with  scroll-work  of  j)urple,  light-green  and  gold, 
surrounding  medallion  paintings  of  Columbus,  Webster,  Clay, 
Calhoun,  Washington,  Franklin  and  others,  together  with  various 
emblematic  conceptions.  All  the  table  furniture  is  of  the  most 
gorgeous  description.  The  china  is  of  ruby  and  gold  finish,  and 
the  silver  ware  of  the  finest  kind.  The  entire  interior  furnishing 
has  been  done  with  the  single  idea  of  producing  the  very  best  effect 
possible,  and  every  article  shows  elaborate  design  and  workman- 
ship, which  reflects  much  credit  on  American  taste  and  skill.' 

A  fine  entrance  saloon,  leading  from  the  deck,  conducts,  by  an 
elegantly  adorned  staircase,  to  the  main  saloon.  This  reception 
saloon  has  a  circular  sofa  capable  of  seating  some  twenty  per- 
sons, and  is  covered  with  crimson  plush.  Over  the  stairway  is 
a  good  painting  of  Mr.  Vanderbilt's  summer  villa  at  Staten 
Island,  which  was  placed  there,  without  his  knowledge,  by  the 
polite  attention  of  his  artist  friend. 

The  command  of  the  steamer  was  given  by  her  proprietor  to 
Asa  Eldridge,  Esq.,  a  gentleman  who  had  established  a  high 
nautical  reputation  as  a  commander  in  the  India,  Liverpool,  and 
California  trade.  The  first  officer  was  Mr.  Cope,  of  Virginia  ; 
the  second,  Mr.  Petersen,  a  native  of  Sweden  ;  the  chief  engi- 
neer was  Mr.  Germaine,  of  New  York  ;  the  steward,  Mr.  Larner, 
formerly  of  the  Cunard  line ;  the  purser,  Mr.  John  Keefe,  the 
well-known  caterer  of  good  things  at  the  cafe  near  the  Racket 
Club,  in  Broadway. 

Several  of  the  hands  who  shipped  for  the  cruise  were  young 
men  of  the  best  families  in  the  country,  who  were  attracted  by 
the  prospect  of  visiting  so  many  celebrated  cities  and  places  in  a 
short  summer  passage. 


J-,  r?  ^^_/W'^.! 


CHAPTER  II. 

EEADT    OX)    SAIL ALL   ON   BOARD   19   MAY  —  YACHT    RUNS     ON  A.  REEF 

NAVY-YARD     AND     DRY     DOCK REPAIRS     SOON     MADE DEPARTURE    20 

JIAY PILOT     LEFT     YACHT MUSTER-ROLL     OF     THE     PARTY FAMILY 

AVORSHIP EMOTIONS    OF    VOYAGERS SAFETY,  NOT  SPEED,  THE   RULE 

STRIKE     OF     FIREMEN GREEN     HANDS DIVINE     SERVICE LAND-BIRD 

CONCERTS GREAT   RUN  OF  THREE   HUNDRED    AND    FORTY-FOUR  MILES 

COMFORT  AND    LUXURY  OF  VOYAGE MR.  VANDERBILT'S    COURTESY 

PILOT CHANNEL. 

All  preliminary  arrangements  having  been  made,  and  the 
"  North  Star"  having  made  a  satisfactory  trip  to  Sandy  Hook,  — 
the  only  trial  to  which  she  was  subjected,  —  the  party  assembled 
on  board  for  our  departure,  May  19th,  at  the  wharf  belonging  to 
the  Allaire  works,  near  the  foot  of  Corlears-street.  A  party  of 
our  friends,  consisting  of  between  four  and  five  hundred  persons, 
was  on  board  the  yacht,  who  were  to  accompany  us  to  the  Hook, 
and  return  in  the  Francis  Skiddy,  which,  as  a  mark  of  respect  to 
Mr.  Vanderbilt,  had  been  loaned  for  the  occasion  by  her  owner, 
J.  McCullough,  Esq.  -At  half  past  ten  A.  M.  the  wheels  were  in 
motion,  but  in  three  minutes  after,  the  force  of  the  ebb-tide  oper- 
ating upon  the  yacht,  which  had  no  steerage-way,  she  struck  hard 
and  fiist  upon  the  reef  which  lies  at  the  pier.  Here  we  were 
placed  in  what  an  old  gentleman  on  board  termed  "  a  located 
position."  The  Huguenot  steamer  came  to  our  assistance,  and  in 
a  few  hours  we  entered  the  Dry  Dock,  at  the  Government  Navy- 
yard,  where  we  received  all  necessary  aid,  afforded  in  the  kindest 
manner  by  Commodore  Smith,  the  chief  of  the  Bureau  of  the 
Dock  and  Navy-yard,  and  Captain  Boormau,  the  commandant  of 
the  Navy-yard.      It  ought  to  be  stated,  that  as  soon  as  the  acci- 


26  NAVY  YARD  AND  DRY  DOCK. 

dent  occurred  a  telegraphic  message  was  seut  to  tlie  Secretary  of 
State  and  the  Navj  Department ;  and  an  order  was  promptly 
responded  that  we  should  be  received  at  the  Dry  Dock,  which, 
fortunately,  was  unoccupied  at  the  time.  The  Dry  Dock  is  a 
most  splendid  work  of  art ;  and  by  the  force  of  the  powerful 
steam-engine  it  was  soon  emptied,  and  the  North  Star  was  exposed - 
to  the  examination  of  the  ship-carpenters.  It  was  found  that  the 
damage  was  very  slight;  she  had  onlylost  a  part  of  her  shoe, 
and  roughed  her  copper  in  a  few  places.  Everything  was  made 
right  in  a  short  time,  and  the  anxiety  of  the  party,  which  had 
been  considerable,  lest  a  delay  should  prove  inevitable,  was  at  once 
relieved ;  and,  at  seven  minutes  to  eight  o'clock  p.  m.,  on  the  20th 
of  May,  we  left  the  gates  amid  the  cheering  of  our  kind  friends 
who  lined  the  dock ;  and,  as  we  steamed  down  the  river,  we  fired 
salutes  and  received  them  from  various  ships,  and  at  the  Battery, 
where  a  large  party  had  gathered  to  give  us  a  farewell  greeting. 
As  the  North  Star  passed  by  Staten  Island,  and  just  opposite  to  the 
residence  of  Mr.  Vanderbilt's  mother,  rockets  were  let  off,  and 
guns  fired  from  the  yacht.  The  night  was  fine,  and  the  moon, 
shining  in  a  cloudless  sky,  gave  us  a  charming  view  of  one  of  the 
Sweetest  islands  of  the  world.  At  half-past  nine  o'clock  we  were 
outside  the  Hook,  and  all  in  fine  spirits,  as  the  pilot,  Mr.  John 
Martineau,  left  the  ship.  Just  before  leaving,  he  was  called  into 
the  cabin  and  received  the  present  of  a  purse  of  gold,  which  was 
intended  to  show  that  no  blame  was  attached  to  him  by  Mr. 
Vanderbilt  on  account  of  the  disaster  at  leaving  the  dock  on 
the  previous  day.  The  presentation  was  made  by  Mr.  II.  F. 
Clark. 

Perhaps  this  may  be  the  proper  time  to  record  the  muster-roll 
of  the  party,  which  consisted  of  the  following  persons : 

Mr.  and  Mrs.  Cornelius  Vanderbilt, 
Mrs.  James  Cross, 
Miss  Kate  Vanderbilt, 


FAMILY   WOESHIP.  27 

Master  George  "W.  Vanderbilt, 
Mr.  and  Mrs.  W.  H.  Vanderbilt, 
Mr,  and  Mrs.  J).  B.  Allen, 
Mr.  and  Mrs.  George  Osgood, 
Mr.  and  Mrs.  W.  K.  Tuorn, 
Miss  Louisa  Thorn, 
Mr.  and  Mrs.  Daniel  Torrance, 
Mr.  and  Mrs.  H.  F.  Clark, 
Mr.  and  Mrs.  N.  B.  Labau, 
Dr.  and  Mrs.  Linsly, 
Rev.  Dr.  and  Mrs.  Cuoules, 
Mrs.  Asa  Eldridge. 

Soon  after  leaving  Sandy  Hook,  Mr  Vanderbilt  requested  me 
to  conduct  family  worship  on  board  the  ship  throughout  the 
voyage,  and  to  appoint  such  an  hour  as  I  thought  most  suitable. 
It  was  accordingly  agreed  that  prayers  should  be  attended  every 
evening  at  nine  o'clock,  and  that  grace  should  be  said  at  all  the 
meals  on  board  ship.  It  affords  me  great  pleasure  to  record  that 
nearly  all  the  party  regularly  attended  throughout  the  voyage,  as 
well  as  at  the  Sabbath-day  services,  when  a  sermon  was  preached 
at  eleven  o'clock.  It  is  a  happy  thing  for  the  voyager  who  for 
the  first  time  looks  back  upon  the  receding  shores  of  his  beloved 
land,  that,  amid  the  disquietudes  that  fill  his  imagination  and  the 
natural  forebodings  of  terror,  connected,  probably,  with  actual 
suffering,  he  has  the  prospect  of  revelling  amid  the  cherished  day- 
dreams of  his  boyhood ;  he  anticipates  an  association  with  the 
glorious  homes  of  England,  the  battle-fields  of  freedom,  the  classic 
plains  of  Italy  and  Greece,  and  the  storied  shores  of  the  Medi- 
terranean. I  have  noticed,  on  several  passages  over  the  Atlantic, 
that  a  thoughtful  and  contemplative  mood  is  the  characteristic 
feature  of  the  voyager  for  the  first  two  or  three  days ;  his  mind 
appears  to  fall  back  upon  his  history,  and,  apart  from  the  excite- 
ment of  life's  usual  tide,  the  man  ^e7nembers  the  way  by  which  he 


28  SAFETY,  NOT  SPEED,  TUE  RULE. 

has  been  led.  A  great  change  is  felt  to  have  been  made  in  a  few 
short  hours.  The  different  pursuits  of  life  in  which  all  have  been 
occupied  are  broken  off.  A  period  of  calm  repose  is  afforded ; 
a  thing  so  new  and  untried  by  most  of  our  party,  — business  men, 
for  whose  ardor  the  days  are  too  short  and  the  nights  are  too 
long. 

The  nest  day  after  leaving  New  York,  the  day  was  all  that  we 
could  desire ;  not  a  cloud  was  visible,  the  sun  shone  most  glo- 
riously, and  it  seemed  happiness  to  exist.  At  twelve  o'clock,  it 
was  announced  that  we  had  made  one  hundred  and  seventy-six 
miles  since  eight  o'clock  the  previous  evening.  This  was  regarded 
as  satisfactory  for  the  first  day,  because  we  were  under  moderate 
steam.  Mr.  Vanderbilt  distinctly  informed  us  that  his  plan  was 
to  insure  safety  for  the  prosecution  of  the  whole  voyage,  which 
would  probably  be  one  of  nearly  twenty  thousand  miles,  and  that 
the  attainment  of  great  speed  was  no  object  of  his  ambition.  Of 
the  power  and  capacity  of  the  North  Star  he  had  no  doubt ;  but, 
with  such  objects  to  effect  as  he  proposed,  he  felt  unwilling  to 
make  any  rash  attempts  at  unusual  rapidity. 

It  is  worth  stating  that,  in  making  up  the  complement  of  fire- 
men for  the  voyage,  Mr.  Germaine  had  selected  a  company  of 
picked  men,  whose  abilities  he  knew  from  former  service.  But,  an 
hour  before  the  yacht  was  to  commence  her  voyage,  this  depart- 
ment of  the  ship's  company  saw  fit  to  strike  for  wages,  supposing 
that  such  a  measure,  at  so  critical  a  juncture,  would  meet  with  a 
sure  compliance.  But  the  calculation  was  made  without  the 
host,  and  in  total  ignorance  of  the  man  with  whom  they  had  to 
do.  True  to  his  principles  of  action  in  all  his  business  affairs, 
Mr.  Vanderbilt  refused  to  be  coerced  by  the  seeming  necessity  of 
the  case ;  he  would  not  listen  for  a  moment  to  demands  so  urged, 
and  in  one  hour  selected  such  firemen  as  could  be  collected ;  and 
many  of  them  were  green  hands,  and  ill-adapted  to  give  efficient 
service  in  their  most  important  department,  where  skill  and 
adroitness  are  necessary  qualifications,  and  can  only  be  the  result 


DIVINE   SERVICE.  29 

of  experience.  Several  of  the  seamen,  too,  were  fresh  from  the 
rural  occupations  of  life.  One  youth  was  ordered  to  strike  two 
bells,  and,  after  a  tardy  movement,  he  reported  that  he  could 
only  find  one  bell !  Several  whales  were  seen  not  far  from  the 
ship,  and  their  gambols  amused  those  who  had  never  before  seen 
Leviathan  at  home. 

On  the  22d,  our  party  was  all  in  usual  health,  with  the  excep- 
tion of  three  of  the  ladies,  who  suffered  from  the  new  acquaint- 
ance formed  with  the  ocean,  although  the  sea  was  as  smooth  as 
the  North  river.  At  eleven  o'clock  divine  service  was  per- 
formed in  the  saloon,  and  attended  by  many  of  the  officers  and 
crew  of  the  ship.  In  view  of  the  long  period  of  intimate  asso- 
ciation we  were  likely  to  spend  on  board  the  yacht,  the  text 
selected  for  the  occasion  was  one  of  a  practical  character, — 
Proverbs  16  :  32.  "  He  that  is  slow  to  anger  is  better  than  the 
mighty,  and  he  that  ruleth  his  spirit  than  he  that  taketh  a  city." 
The  singing  was  fine,  and  the  accompaniment  of  the  piano 
very  acceptable.  The  log  of  the  ship  this  day  recorded  two 
hundred  and  seventy-two  miles. 

The  23d  was  a  bright,  fine  day,  and  the  run  of  the  yacht  two 
hundred  and  seventy-eight  miles,  —  the  wind  abaft,  and  a  little 
more  sea  on,  causing  her  to  roll.  We  passed  the  ship  Sharon, 
of  Bath  ;  we  gave  her  three  hearty  cheers,  and  she  returned  the 
compliment  by  lowering  her  flag. 

2^ih.  —  Our  run  was  two  hundred  and  sixty  miles.  At  seven 
minutes  past  seven  a.  m.,  we  stopped  one  hour  to  key  up.  All 
day  amused  by  vast  schools  of  porpoises  playing  close  around  us, 
and  nearly  touching  our  wheels. 

2bth.  —  Two  hundred  and  seventy  miles.  In  the  night  we 
crossed  the  banks  of  Newfoundland  ;  the  day  was  slightly  foggy, 
the  sea  like  a  mirror,  with  a  perceptible  ground-swell.  In  the 
morning,  between  two  and  three,  we  "passed  and  spoke  the  Mary 
Crocker,  of  Bath,  from  Liverpool,  bound  to  Philadelphia ;  we 
glided  close  by  her  stern.     Soon  after  daylight,  a  small  land- 


30  LAND-BIRD  —  CONCERTS. 

bird  flew  on.board  ;  it  appeared  quite  exhausted.  Poor  thing !  it 
had  lost  its  way,  and  here  it  was  almost  mid-ocean.  We  fed  it 
with  crumbs  and  seed,  and  it  seemed  nearly  disposed  to  form  an 
acquaintance  with  our  canary-bird.  A  recent  traveller,  in  re- 
cording a  similar  event,  says,  very  beautifully,  of  a  stray  bird, 
"  Is  it  not  an  epitome  of  man  when  he  breaks  the  golden  chords 
of  that  harmony  which  bind  him  to  his  God  ?  " 

The  extreme  tranquillity  of  the  ocean  prevented  us  from 
feeling  that  we  were  at  sea.  The  pleasant  weather  kept  us 
much  on  deck,  and  we  found  constant  employment  in  gazing  upon 
the  lights  and  shades  of  the  ever-rolling  waves.  Our  evenings 
were  spent  very  agreeably  in  listening  to  music  from  the  ladies. 
We  had  a  fine  piano,  and  several  of  the  party  possessed  vocal 
powers  of  a  high  order.  I  have  rarely  enjoyed  a  concert  on 
shore  as  much  as  some  of  our  entertainments  at  sea.  One  gen- 
tleman of  the  party  possessed  fine  taste  in  Italian  music,  and 
several  others  had  good  voices,  and  our  concerts  would  have  been 
respectable  on  shore ;  but  at  sea  they  were  marvellously  well  re- 
ceived by  a  gratified  audience.  The  ladies  were  always  in  voice, 
and  many  a  song  I  heard  on  the  ocean-wave  will  long  dwell  upon 
the  ear  of  memory.  The  sailors,  too,  were  decidedly  fond  of 
negro  melody.  One  of  them,  who  answered  to  the  euphonious 
name  of  "  Pogee,"  was,  I  think,  quite  equal  to  the  Christy  Min- 
strels. Every  evening,  he  made  plenty  of  amusement  for  all 
hands ;  and  many  a  merry  group  have  I  seen  gathered  round 
him  to  listen  to  "  Jordan  am  a  hard  road  to  trabel,  I  believe." 

2Qth.  —  The  ship's  run  was  two  hundred  and  eighty-five  miles. 
Exchanged  signals  with  the  ship  Charlotte  Harrison.  Her  decks 
crowded  with  emigrants.     Day  overcast. 

27^/^.  — tNo  observation  by  sun.  The  calculation  of  the  log 
was  two  hundred  and  sixty-five  miles.  This  day  our  bird  left 
us.     Saw  several  vessels. 

28zA  — We  made  three  hundred  miles,  and  had  a  fine  breeze. 
The  day  charming. 


COMFORT   AND    LUXURY    OF   VOYAGE.  31 

2^th.  —  Sunday.  Our  ship's  reckoning  was  three  hundred 
and  thirty-seven  miles.  After  a  thick  night,  the  sun  rose  clear. 
Attended  divine  service. 

This  was  a  great  day's  work.  Our  average  revolutions  four- 
teen and  one-half.  No  doubt  exists  that  we  could  have  made 
three  hundred  and  sixty  miles,  had  the  effort  been  put  forth.  The 
Baltic,  on  a  trip  from  Liverpool  to  New  York,  once  made  three 
hundred  and  thirty-six  miles ;  but  the  difference  of  time  in  her 
favor  was  twenty-eight  and  one-half  minutes,  making  her  run- 
ning-time twenty-four  hours,  twenty -eight  minutes,  thirty  seconds. 
Whereas  we  were  going  east,  and  so  lost  twenty-eight  and  one- 
half  minutes  on  our  twenty -four  hours.  Giving  the  North  Star 
the  benefit  of  this  calculation,  and  our  twenty-four  hours  affords 
a  run  of  three  hundred  and  forty-four  miles.  It  will  astonish 
many  to  learn  that  the  consumption  of  coal  this  day  was  only 
forty-two  tons,  by  the  engineer's  register. 

In  relation  to  the  style  of  living  on  board  the  steamer,  I  may 
say  that,  with  all  our  knowledge  of  the  splendid  accommodations 
of  the  ship  when  we  commenced  our  voyage,  yet  I  think  none 
of  the  party  expected  the  luxurious  fare  with  which  we  were 
provided.  I  hazard  no  contradiction  from  any  of  ray  messmates, 
when  I  say  that  on  our  voyage  from  New  York  to  Southampton 
our  table  was  equal  to  that  of  any  hotel  in  America,  and  the 
desserts  rivalled  in  richness  and  variety  anything  that  I  have  wit- 
nessed in  the  Astor,  Metropolitan  or  St.  Nicholas.  It  would  be 
wrong  if  I  omitted  to  express  my  admiration  of  Mr.  Vander- 
bilt's  kindness  and  bearing  in  the  supervision  of  all  our  affairs. 
Naturally  anxious  for  the  success  of  his  undertaking,  he  was 
cautious,  prudent  and  self-reliant.  Often  did  I  wish  that  more 
than  the  members  of  our  privileged  company  could  have  seen 
him  day  by  day,  kind  and  attentive  to  his  officers,  polite  and 
liberal  to  his  guests.  Mr.  Vanderbilt  I  had  long  known  to  be 
possessed  of  great  qualities,  a  mighty  grasp  of  intellect,  and 
oapaHliti^ .  of  the  highest  order.  Yet,  till  I  entered  upon  this 
3* 


82  PILOT — CIIAICNEL. 

voyage,  I  d'.d  not  adequately  appreciate  his  knowledge  of  men, 
his  fine  tact,  his  intuitive  perception  of  the  fitting,  and  his  digni- 
fied self-control;  and  I  felt  glad  that  such  a  man,  self-made  as 
he  is,  should  be  seen  by  the  accidental  sons  of  nobility  and 
fortune  in  the  Old  World. 

Tuesday,  June  1,  at  ten  minutes  past  sis.  New  York  time,  we 
took  a  pilot  on  board — making  our  voyage  from  pilot  to  pilot  ten 
days,  eight  hours,  forty  minutes.  The  fellow  proved  to  be  careless 
and  ignorant,  and  he  managed  to  place  the  yacht  on  a  bank  of 
soft  mud,  not  far  from  the  Needles.  At  the  flood  tide  we  got  ofi", 
and  anchored  in  the  night,  at  Southampton-water.  Our  passage  up 
the  British  Channel  was  delightful,  giving  us  fine  views  of  the  Eng- 
lish coast,  including  Cornwall,  Devonshire  and  Dorsetshire.  The 
opening  up  of  the  Bill  of  Portland  was  a  noble  piece  of  scenery, 
and  all  our  party  spent  the  day  on  deck  ;  and  as  the  day  was  fine, 
though  breezy,  we  enjoyed  every  moment.  The  passage,  as  we 
passed  the  Needles,  was  deeply  interesting ;  we  obtained  a  fine 
view  of  the  stupendous  cliffs  which  overhang  them,  and  admired 
their  isolated  situation  and  exceedingly  picturesque  form.  These 
huge  rocks,  as  well  as  the  awful  clifi's,  seem  to  be  composed  of  a 
pearly-colored  chalk. 


CHAPTER   Til. 

SOUTHAMPTON SCENEHT HISTORICAL     ASSOCIATIONS STEAM     PACKET 

COMPANIES HIGH-STEEET AMERICAN  VICE-CONSUL,  MK.    COX DOCKS 

STEAMERS REV.    THOMAS    ADKINS ARRIVE    IN    LONDON QUEEN 'S 

DRAWING-ROOM OBJECTS  OF  CURIOSITY,  ETC. HYDE  PARK KEN- 
SINGTON GARDENS regent's  PARK VISITS  TO  WESTMINSTER  AND  OTH- 
ER PUBLIC  PLACES WINDSOR HAMPTON    COURT BRISTOL CLIFTON 

AND  VICINAGE TINTERN HENBURT    AND   COTTAGES LOCAL  SCENERY 

BERKELEY  CASTLE GLOUCESTER CHELTENHAM ENGLISH  COUNTRY 

SCENERY. 

It  was  one  of  England's  most  joyous,  brilliant  mornings,  when 
we  woke  up  and  gazed  out  upon  as  richly  cultivated  a  landscape  aa 
the  southern  coast  of  Britain  can  present.  Directly  before  us  lay 
the  ancient  town  of  Southampton,  which  is  situated  upon  a  prom- 
ontory, formed  by  the  confluence  of  the  small  rivers  Test  and 
Itchen.  A  gradual  ascent  leads  towards  the  north.  The  tide 
flows  to  some  distance  above  the  town,  and  the  noble  estuary, 
known  as  the  Soiithampton-water,  extends  several  miles  below, 
and  afibrds  convenient  anchorage  to  shipping  at  all  states  of  the 
tide,  while  the  charming  Isle  of  Wight  constitutes  an  immense 
breakwater,  and  protects  it  from  the  rage  of  ocean  storms.  The 
salubrity  of  this  region  has  established  its  reputation  as  a  water- 
ing-place ;  and  the  climate  being  so  mild  and  dry,  it  has  been  a 
popular  resort  for  invalids  afilicted  with  pulmonic  afiections.  Very 
numerous  instances  of  benefit  to  those  who  have  sufiered  from 
bronchial  irritation  are  reported.  It  is  a  matter  of  notoriety  that 
all  epidemics  have  assumed  a  milder  form  in  this  vicinity  than  in 
most  other  p^  aces.  Dr.  Granville,  in  his  capital  work  on  the  Spas 
of  England  awards  high  commendation  to  this  town  as  a  resort 


84  SCENERY  —  HISTORICAL    ASSOCIATIONS. 

for  the  weak,  and  speaks  of  its  gravelly  soil  and  its  fine  dry 
walks.  The  approach  to  Southampton  from  the  water  presents 
a  pleasing  landscape.  The  churches,  towers  and  spires  on  the 
central  point,  with  the  rivers  on  either  side  winding  into  the  dis- 
tant, obscure  gray,  and  the  fine  woodlands  of  the  New  Forest,  with 
the  beautiful  villas  off  to  the  left,  and  the  noble  ruins  of  Netley 
Abbey  at  the  right,  combine  to  delight  the  eye ;  and  on  few 
spots  can  a  weary  voyager  land  in  Grreat  Britain  with  more 
pleasurable  emotions  than  at  this  venerable  town.  It  was  here 
that  Dr.  Watts  was  born,  and,  gazing  upon  the  fair  prospect  be- 
yond the  water  in  front  of  the  town,  he  wrote  the  well-known 
and  exquisite  stanza  — 

"  Sweet  fields  beyond  the  swelling  flood 
Stand  dressed  in  living  green." 

It  was  on  this  very  beach  that  Canute  rebuked  his  sycophantic 
courtiers,  as  the  advancing  tide  approached  the  Danish  monarch. 
From  this  port  the  army  of  Henry  V.  sailed  to  France  when  he 
attempted  the  conquest  of  that  counti-y.  And  a  still  more  im- 
portant historical  event  is  associated  with  Southampton,  and  one 
that  must  ever  make  it  an  interesting  place  to  New  England 
men ;  it  was  from  this  town  that  our  Pilgrim  Fathers  sailed  in 
the  Mayflower,  when  they  commenced  the  voyage  of  destiny,  to 
found  a  commonwealth  which  is  now  exerting  an  influence  all  over 
the  globe.  I  should  mention  that  all  around  are  to  be  traced  the 
remains  of  Roman  works ;  close  by  was  their  great  Camp  Clau- 
sentura.  For  many  years  Southampton  was  a  remarkably  still, 
quiet  place  ;  but  it  has  undergone  a  vast  change  in  a  few  years, 
by  the  construction  of  railroads  and  docks.  The  steam  packet 
companies.  Oriental,  West  India  and  South-western,  have  se- 
lected this  as  their  port  for  passage  to  the  Mediterranean,  West 
India  and  American  ports  ;  and  a  busy  sight  it  is  to  see  the  arrival 
and  departure  of  the  immense  steamers.  We  found  several  flue 
hotels ;  one,  styled  the  New  York  Hotel,  had  the  star-spangled 
banner  displayed  for  our  special  accommodation.     Some  of  our 


AMERICAN    VICE-CONSUL  —  LOCKS.  35 

gentlemen,  who  repaired  to  it  for  a  lunch  on  shore,  were  not  very 
favorably  impressed  with  it.  Radley's  Hotel,  near  the  railroad, 
and  I  think  the  Dolphin,  are  well-kept  houses. 

I  hardly  know  a  town  that  can  show  a  more  beautiful  main 
street  than  Southampton,  except  it  be  Oxford.  The  High-street 
opens  from  the  quay,  and  under  various  names  it  winds  in  a  gen- 
tly-sweeping line  for  one  mile  and  a  half,  and  is  of  a  very  hand- 
some width.  The  variety  of  style  and  color  of  material  in  the 
buildings  affords  an  exhibition  of  outline,  light  and  color,  that  I 
think  is  seldom  equalled.  The  shops  are  very  elegant,  and  the 
streets  are  kept  exceedingly  clean.  In  the  absence  of  Mr. 
McCroskey,  the  United  States  consul,  we  were  visited  by  his 
obliging  and  polite  representative,  Mr.  Cox,  and  Mr.  Hillier,  his 
kind  assistant ;  and  by  his  advice  the  North  Star  hauled  into  the 
docks  for  the  purpose  of  coaling.  We  were  much  gratified  by 
an  inspection  of  the  docks,  pierhead  and  quays,  which  are  admi- 
rably constructed,  and  look  as  if  designed  to  last  for  all  time. 
The  buildings  around  the  quays  are  in  fine  taste ;  and  we  observed 
one  in  particular,  a  handsome  erection  of  the  Italian  style,  belong- 
ing to  the  Royal  Yacht  Club.  From  the  officers  of  this  club  we  re- 
ceived a  polite  invitation  to  visit  their  house  and  use  their  rooms. 
The  Plata,  a  large  steamer  of  twenty-eight  hundred  tons,  was  lying 
next  to  the  North  Star.  She  had  just  returned  from  the  West  In- 
dies or  Brazil,  and  had  lost  several  persons  by  yellow  fever.  Close 
by  us  were  the  Oronoka,  a  fine  steamer,  just  ready  for  sea,  and 
the  Indus.  All  these  were  first-class  steamers.  Here,  too,  was 
the  old  Great  Western,  so  familiar  to  New  Yorkers,  undergoing 
repairs,  which  seemed  really  necessary.  A  steam  frigate  came 
into  the  dock  to  receive  a  part  of  a  regiment  bound  to  a  foreign 
port.  The  soldiers,  as  they  marched  along  the  dock,  looked  like 
fine  fellows,  and  many  of  them  had  their  wives  to  embark  with 
them.  Thirty  years  had  passed  away  since  I  had  visited  this 
town,  and  I  almost  dreaded  to  call  on  my  former  acquaintances, 
lest  I  should  feel  how  the  march  of  time  had  left  its  footsteps 


36         REV.    THCMAS   ADICNS  —  ARRIVE    IN   LONDON. 

and  impressions.  I  called  on  the  Rev.  Thomas  Adkins,  the  In- 
dependent minister,  who  settled  over  his  congregation  in  1810. 
I  well  remembered  his  manly  form  and  his  noble  bearing,  and,  as 
I  approached  his  residence,  I  told  the  ladies  that  Mr.  Adkins 
used  to  be  regarded  as  one  of  the  noblest-looking  men  in  Eng- 
land. We  found  him  at  home,  and  I  was  delighted  and  aston- 
ished to  perceive  how  very  gently  age  had  touched  his  princely 
form.  He  certainly  was  the  finest-looking  man  I  saw  in  England, 
of  his  age ;  and  our  ladies  thought  him  one  of  the  most  splendid 
men  they  had  ever  seen.  Mr.  Adkins  and  his  wife  visited  us  on 
board  the  yacht,  and  we  passed  a  very  pleasant  hour  in  conver- 
sation respecting  friends  of  other  days,  most  of  whom  are  removed 
from  the  present  state.  Mr.  Adkins  has  a  large  congregation, 
and  his  townsmen  are  justly  proud  of  his  talents  and  finished 
character  as  a  Christian  gentleman.  The  church  under  the  pas- 
toral care  of  this  gentleman  dates  its  origin  to  the  important  year 
1688.  We  saw  less  of  my  venerable  friend  than  we  should  have 
done,  as  he  was  just  on  the  eve  of  setting  out  on  his  summer  ex- 
cursion to  France.  In  the  evening,  a  party  from  the  ship  rode 
through  the  town  and  round  its  environs.  I  do  not  believe  that 
the  ladies  will  soon  forget  the  delight  which  they  experienced 
from  their  first  sight  of  the  cottages  and  villas  of  the  suburban 
region  of  Southampton.  The  next  morning,  June  2,  we  took  the 
train  to  London,  at  eleven  o'clock  a.  m.  We  had  a  good  view  of 
Winchester  and  its  noble  cathedral ;  and  some  of  the  party  visited 
the  grand  old  city,  and  partook  of  the  hospitalities  of  Mr.  Alder- 
man Andrews,  whose  name  is  so  endeared  to  Americans.  We 
arrived  at  London  at  two  o'clock.  As  it  happened  to  be  a  Queen's 
Drawing-room  that  day,  we  found  the  city  in  a  high  state  of  ex- 
citement, and  the  hotels  thronged.  Seldom  have  I  known  so 
much  difficulty  in  obtaining  accommodation ;  and,  as  our  party 
was  a  large  one,  it  was  no  easy  matter  to  find  quarters  for  all  in 
one  hotel.  I  was  anxious  to  get  in  at  my  old  favorite  house,  the 
Golden  Cross,  Charing  Cross,  nearly  opposite  to  Northumberland 


IIYDM    PxVllK.  37 

House ;  but  Mr.  Gardiner  was  unable  to  take  even  half  our  number. 
We  at  last  established  ourselves  at  St,  James's  Hotel,  in  Jermyn- 
street,  and  found  good  accommodations.  Two  or  three  noblemen 
reside  in  this  hotel ;  and  one,  Lord  Blayney,  has  made  it  his  city 
residence  for  many  years.  Our  friends,  who  were  in  London  for 
the  first  time,  were  greatly  delighted  with  the  extraordinary  dis- 
play of  equipage  occasioned  by  the  Drawing-room.  Every  street 
was  thronged  with  carriages  waiting  for  their  turn  to  take  up  the 
company  at  the  Palace.  The  coachmen  and  footmen  all  had  im- 
mense bouquets  in  their  bosoms,  and  the  splendid  liveries  and 
powdered  heads  and  white  wigs  of  the  drivers  were  novelties  to 
most  of  the  North  Star  party.  I  was  anxious  to  know  what 
would  be  the  first  object  of  curiosity  to  the  ladies,  and  not  a  little 
surprised  to  find  that  the  Thames  Tunnel  was  voted  for  as  our 
primary  visit.  The  morning  was  devoted  to  it,  and  a  visit  to  the 
Tower,  the  Monument,  and  St.  Paul's  Cathedral.  This  last  edi- 
fice was  so  lumbered  up  with  scafiblding  erected  for  the  great 
gathering  of  the  school-boys,  held  on  the  1st  of  June,  that  we  had 
but  a  very  poor  view  of  the  noble  sanctuary.  By  the  way,  after 
visiting  almost  every  celebrated  religious  temple  of  Europe,  I 
am  satisfied  that  St.  Paul's  Cathedral  is  kept  in  the  worst  con- 
dition of  any  that  I  have  seen.  Its  statuary  has  on  it  the 
thick  dust  of  long,  long  years ;  and  the  general  internal  ap- 
pearance of  the  church  is  discreditable  to  the  nation.  My  im- 
pressions in  reference  to  this  cathedral  are  gathered  from  fre- 
quent previous  visits,  and  have  nothing  to  do  with  its  condition 
at  this  time. 

After  dinner  we  rode  to  Hyde  Park,  and  there  we  were  amused 
with  a  spectacle  that  can  be  witnessed  nowhere  else.  Hundreds, 
and  I  may  say  thousands,  were  taking  their  accustomed  rides, 
and  we  had  a  good  opportunity  to  see  the  ladies,  gentlemen,  horses 
and  carriages,  of  London  and  England.  The  horses  we  thought, 
on  the  whole,  not  what  we  had  expected,  but  there  were  some 
very  noble  animals ;  the  ladies  appeared  to  great  advantage,  but 


38  KENSINGTON    GARDENS. 

we  thought  that  the  gentlemen  certainly  might  improve  in  horse- 
manship. 

London  is  indeed  to  be  envied  for  the  possession  of  her  parks ; 
they  are  her  gems,  her  crowning  glory,  in  my  esteem.  Three 
hundred  and  forty-nine  acres,  and  close  to  the  brick  and  mortar, 
and  noise  and  turmoil,  of  this  great  Babel !  This  park  has  a 
great  entrance  from  Piccadilly,  by  fine  arched  gateways,  with  a 
lodge,  and  several  other  approaches  from  Oxford-street,  Bays- 
water,  Kensington  and  Knightsbridge.  The  park  is  laid  out  with 
noble  walks,  and  spacious  drives,  in  which  only  private  carriages 
are  admissible.  From  April  to  July,  between  five  and  seven  p.  m., 
the  scene  presented  is  very  gay  and  attractive.  A  road  called 
Botten  Bow  is  kept  exclusively  for  the  use  of  equestrians ;  it  is 
nearly  two  miles  long,  and  is  covered  with  fine  loose  gravel.  In 
the  park  is  the  beautiful  sheet  of  water  known  as  the  Serpentine, 
and  at  its  junction  with  Kensington  Gardens  is  an  elegant  stone 
bridge.  The  Serpentine  extends  over,  I  think,  not  less  than  fifty 
acres,  and  early  in  the  morning  it  afi'ords  fine  bathing  to  hun- 
dreds of  the  citizens  of  London.  The  noble  old  trees  of  this  park 
are  worthy  objects  of  admiration.  I  like  to  stand  on  the  high 
ground  near  the  Edgeware  road,  and  catch  glimpses  of  the  river 
through  the  forest  trees,  while  off  to  the  south  are  seen  the  Surrey 
Hills,  and  church-spires  and  antique  towers  on  all  sides,  and  fine 
mansions  peeping  from  the  trees.  Here,  too,  are  often  witnessed 
the  reviews  of  the  troops  stationed  in  the  metropolis.  I  spoke  of 
Kensington  Gardens :  these  are  a  continuation  of  Hyde  Park, 
and  embrace  three  hundred  acres.  In  1550,  all  these  six  hun- 
dred and  forty-nine  acres  were  a  royal  enclosure,  and  stocked 
with  game,  and  Majesty  hunted  for  pastime.  It  was  appropriated 
in  1851  to  a  nobler  end  ;  and  here  was  the  most  important  popu- 
lar gathering  that  England  ever  witnessed,  at  the  Great  Exhibi- 
tion. Our  rides  through  the  Begent's  Park,  which  contains  four 
hundred  and  fifty  acres,  afforded  us  much  enjoyment.  The  villas 
and  terraces  which  have  been  built  during  the  last  fifteen  years 


BRISTOL  39 

are  exquisite  specimens  of  architecture.  Here  are  the  Zoological 
Gardens  and  the  Coliseum.  No  foreigner  should  fail  to  visit  this 
noble  park ;  and  here  I  think  he  will  gain  his  best  estimate  of 
the  beauty  and  elegance  of  English  city  life,  as  it  is  enjoyed  by 
the  opulent.  The  long  walk,  with  its  four  lines  of  elm-trees,  is  a 
remarkable  avenue. 

We  made  very  interesting  visits  to  Westminster  Abbey,  the 
new  Houses  of  Parliament,  Bank  of  England,  Eoyal  Exchange, 
British  Museum,  Buckingham  Palace,  and  other  great  objects 
of  curiosity  in  London ;  and  excursions  were  made  to  Hampton 
Court,  Windsor  Castle,  Bichmond,  &c. 

Several  members  of  the  party  left  London  for  other  places. 
Some  went^to  Liverpool,  and  others  to  Bristol,  Clifton,  Bath, 
Grloucester  and  Cheltenham.  I  cannot  omit  mention  of  a  rapid 
visit  which  I  made  to  my  native  city,  and  where  I  had  the 
good  fortune  to  arrive  just  in  time  to  join  a  large  family  part 
at  dinner,  enabling  me  to  meet  those  with  whom  I  must  other- 
wise have  left  England  without  enjoying  an  interview.  Bristol 
is  a  glorious  old  city;  it  is  full  of  history;  not  a  street,  a 
church,  a  hill  (and,  like  Rome,  it  has  seven  hills),  but  is  identified 
with  other  days,  and  days  of  note.  It  boasts  of  Roman  settle- 
ment; figured  largely  in  the  wars  of  the  barons;  was  the  birth- 
place of  Sebastian  Cabot;  was  a  great  bone  of  contention 
between  Royalists  and  Parliamentarians ;  was  the  scene  of  poor 
Naylor's  judicial  tortures,  and  Judge  Jeffries'  cruelties;  the 
home  of  Chatterton,  Southey,  Coleridge,  Cottle,  Hannah  More, 
Robert  Hall,  Richard  Rsyuolds,  William  Thorp,  Dr.  Ryland, 
Bird,  the  artist,  Bayley,  the  sculptor  ;  was  represented  in  Par- 
iament  by  Edmund  Burke;  was  burned  and  sacked  by  the 
rioters  in  1831  ;  and  is  the  abode  of  more  Christian  charities 
than  any  other  city  I  know,  excepting  Boston  and  New  York. 
Here  is  the  great  boast  of  the  west  of  England,  —  the  unrivalled 
parish  church  of  St.  Mary  Redcliffe.  This  venerable  pile  is 
undergoing  a  thorough  renovation.  It  contains  the  monument 
4 


40 


CLIFTON    AND    ITS    SCENERY. 


and  grave  of  Admiral  Penn,  father  of  the  founder  of  1  ennsylva- 
nia.  In  the  evening  —  our  only  one  — we  took  a  carriage  to  visit 
Clifton,  on  the  banks  of  the  Avon,  with  its  unequalled  scenery 


ST.  Vincent's  rocks,  on  the  avon. 
of  St.  Vincent's  Rocks,  the  Down,  Hotwells,  Henbury  and  Blaise 
Hamlet.  I  have  no  knowledge  of  any  spot  on  earth  that  can 
furnish  a  ride  of  such  beauty  in  five  hours.  From  the  hill  at 
Kingsweston  we  looked  down  upon  the  winding  Avon,  saw  its 
junction  with  the  "  Severn  swift,"  gazed  upon  the  Welsh  Hills, 
Bristol  Channel,  and  took  a  look  over  at  the  mouth  of  the  Wye 
and  Wynd  ClifFe,  close  by  which  is  Tintern  Abbey,  the  shrine  of 
beauty  at  which  my  boyish  devoirs  were  often  paid.  Tintern  is 
the  grandest  ecclesiastical  ruin  in  Europe,  and  Mr.  Webster 
regarded  it  as  alone  sufficient  to  recompense  a  traveller  for 
crossing  the  ocean  to  pay  it  a  visit.  I  never  heard  the  great 
man  more  eloquent  than  one  day,  after  his  return  from  Europe, 
when  he  conversed  upon  the  abbey  and  its  vicinage.  The  Wye 
had  filled  the  sportsman's  eye,  and  the  beauties  of  the  works  of 
religion  and  art  had  animated  his  mind.     I  remember  he  ex- 


HENBURY    COTTAGES.  41 

pressed  the  wish  that  he  could  have  had  gathered  round  him, 
when  he  stood  at  Tintern,  all  he  loved.  Henbury,  about  four 
miles  from  Bristol,  is  one  of  England's  most  beautiful  villages  ; 
it  looks  full  of  peace,  contentment,  elegance  and  virtue.  Here 
is  Blaise  Castle,  the  residence  of  John  Scandret  Harford,  a  man 
of  large  fortune,  fine  literary  taste,  and  great  eloquence,  and, 
what  is  more  and  better  than  all,  a  Christian  man.  In  many 
respects  he  resembles  our  own  Everett.  From  his  domain  the 
eye  drinks  in  scenes  of  paradisiac  beauty.  In  the  distance  are 
ridge  upon  ridge  of  mountain  ranges  off  in  Monmouthshire,  bold 
and  green,  then  dimly  blue.  In  the  village,  the  munificence  of 
this  gentleman  has  laid  out  ten  cottages  of  great  taste,  known  as 
Blaise  Hamlet,  and  which  are  the  residences  of  ladies  of  decayed 
fortune;  such  another  group  of  sweet  rural  homes  England  can- 
not show.  O,  the  happy  hours  of  my  boyhood  that  I  have 
passed  in  this  village,  on  the  Avon's  banks  !  and  what  tea-drink- 
ings  have  I  had  in  these  cottages,  and  in  the  arbors  which  sm*- 
round  them  !  I  really  believe  that,  either  from  the  impressions 
which  I  received  in  childhood  in  this  glorious  region,  or  from 
some  peculiar  organization,  I  have  felt  so  much  delight  in  ram- 
bling abroad  among  scenes  of  beauty,  sublimity,  and  historical 
interest.  Nor  do  I  regret  a  wayside  wandering  I  have  ever 
made.  I  am  sure  that  Wordsworth  spoke  like  a  prof)het  when 
he  said, 

"  And  not  unrecompenscd  the  man  shall  roam. 
Who,  to  converse  with  Nature,  quits  Lis  home." 

Why,  there  arc  hundreds  of  nooks  and  dells,  ingles  and  hillsides, 
lanes  and  orchardings,  streams  and  lakes,  mountains  and  cata- 
racts, mapped  into  my  very  soul ;  and  often  do  I  get  their  lati- 
tudes and  longitudes  in  solitary  hours  and  in  night  seasons.  I 
do  not  repent  me  that  these  witching  charms  have  led  me  off 
from  the  turnpike  road  of  life  as  by  a  magic  spell.  Yes,  long 
years  ago,  when  I  have  listened  to  the  thrush  and  blackbird  in 
this  same  village,  I  have  blessed  the  man  who  helped  to  make 


42 


BLAISE    HAMLET  —  GLOUCESTERSIIIIIE. 


the  region  have  so  much  of  heaven  in  its  pathways.  I  feel 
young  again  as  I  walk  through  woods  and  vales  w4iere  I  learned 
to  be  what  I  am. 

These  cottages  are  all  different  in  style,  and  cither  of  them 
would  form  an  admirable  lodge  for  a  gentleman's  estate.  The 
sketches  of  a  few  are  shown  in  the  accompanying  illustrations, 

i  ■■■• 


HENBTTRY   COTTAGES 


and  I  took  the  pains  and  expense  to  obtain  drafts  of  the  ground 
plans  of  all  of  them,  with  a  plot  of  the  group  entire.  0,  that 
some  of  our  wealthy  men  Avould  adorn  the  neighborhood  of  our 
cities  with  so  much  of  l^cauty  and  the  sweet  charity  of  life ! 
From  Bristol  we  took  our  route  through  Gloucestershire,  for 
Cheltenham.  The  county  of  Gloucestershire  is  renowned  for  its 
scenery,  and  nowhere  can  the  traveller  find  so  much  manufactur- 
ing interest  united  with  more  perfect  rural  beauty  than  he  meets 
with  in  the  rail-car  between  Bristol  and  Gloucester.  The  fac- 
tory and  its  operatives  are  planted  on  the  edges  of  hills,  under 


BERKELEY    CASTLE — GLOUCESTER.  43 

the  wings  of  woods,  amid  honeysuckles,  laburnums,  gilliflowers, 
and  jessamines;  all  around  are  running  brooks  and  singing  birds 
and.  busy  bees.  And  what  roads  and  lanes  of  beauty!  —  and 
thei  the  exquisite  mingling  up  of  gorse,  and  bloom,  and  heath, 
and  fern  !  Talk  of  cottages  !  —  come  and  see  the  laboring  man's 
cottage  on  these  hill-sides.  There  are  flowers  all  round  his  door, 
ivy  trailing  to  the  gable-ridges,  fruit-trees  right  and  left,  and  one 
side  of  the  house  is  pretty  sure  to  have  a  pear-tree  trained  all 
over  it.  No  man  understands  the  thousand  beauties  of  Great 
Britain  who  does  not  wander  through  her  inland  counties,  and 
tramp  through  the  unnumbered  old  roads  that  lead  to  nowhere. 

We  passed  by  Berkeley's  flinty  towers,  where  England's  king 
died  at  the  command  of  his  cruel  queen,  Isabella,  the  she-wolf 
of  France.  This  castle  will  well  repay  a  visit  from  the  tourist. 
I  am  familiar  with  it,  and  know  few  places  more  deserving  notice. 
The  private  chapel  is  one  of  the  oldest  in  the  kingdom,  and  in 
the  mansion  are  capital  pictures  by  Jansen,  Holbein,  Lely,  and 
Vandyke ;  while  few  collections  can  show  better  specimens  of 
Claude  Lorraine,  Salvator  Rosa,  Ostade  Wouvermans,  Peter 
Keefs,  Both,  and  Leonardi  da  Vinci.  Those  who  are  pleased 
with  old  furniture  will  have  a  treat  in  this  castle.  One  cabinet 
of  oak  is  thought  to  be  unsurpassed ;  and  here,  too,  are  the  sofa, 
chairs  and  bedstead,  which  were  the  cabin  furniture  of  Sir 
Francis  Drake  in  his  famous  voyage  round  the  world.  Close  to 
the  church-yard  stands  Chantry  Cottage,  the  residence  of  the 
immortal  Jenner. 

Gloucester  is  a  staid,  respectable  little  city  ;  and,  like  all 
cathedral  towns,  contains  a  decent  share  of  pompous  compla- 
cency. A  recent  increase  of  business  has  come  to  this  place  by 
railroad  communication  and  enlargement  of  her  access  to  the 
ocean,  by  which  it  has  become  a  port  of  entry.  This  city  has  a 
pleasant  site  on  the  east  bank  of  the  Severn,  and  has  four  fine 
streets,  which  proceed  from  the  centre  of  the  town.  The  cathe- 
dra, is  a  noble  edifice,  and  was  originally  the  convent  church  of 


44  cheltexha:,!  —  sceicery. 

a  BeDedictine  abbey,  wbich  was  erecte^l  in  tlie  early  part  of  the 
eleventh  century.  The  choir  of  this  church  is,  perhaps,  the  finest 
specimen  of  the  florid  style  of  architecture  in  the  kingdom. 
The  building  is  rich  in  monuments;  and  among  the  more  recent 
ones  are  those  to  the  memory  of  Jenner,  who  introduced  vaccina- 
tion as  an  antidote  to  the  sad  maladj''  of  the  small-pox,  and 
Robert  Raikes,  who  founded  Sunday-schools.  Gloucester  took 
a  decided  stand  against  Charles  I.  in  the  civil  wars  ;  and  Charles 
II.,  on  his  restoration,  ordered  the  walls  of  the  city  to  be  deihol- 
ishcd. 

Cheltenham  is  a  modern  place.  It  has  grown  up  in  the  pres- 
ent century,  .and  presents  more  of  the  appearance  of  progress 
and  improvement  than  most  English  towns.  Its  newness  reminds 
one  of  an  American  town  or  city.  It  is  renowned  for  its  medicinal 
springs,  and,  like  our  Saratoga,  is  much  resorted  to  by  the  fash- 
ionable. Our  object  in  visiting  Cheltenham  was  to  pay  our 
respects  to  a  family  from  whom,  in  1836,  we  had  received  great 
kindness  and  attention;  and  our  short  tarry  was  a  very  delight- 
ful one,  enabling  us  to  recall  days  of  pleasure  which  we  often 
think  of  in  our  western  home. 

The  ride  from  Cheltenham  to  Swindon,  where  we  took  the 
Great  Western  Railroad,  is  through  a  lovely  piece  of  country. 
We  were  delighted  with  the  snugness  and  comfort  of  the  dwell- 
ings of  the  gentry ;  and  all  the  cottages,  excepting  of  the  very 
poorest  class,  presented  something  attractive.  We  noticed  high- 
fenced  fields  all  fringed  with  noble  trees;  houses  buried  up  in 
shrubberies  and  clumps  of  forest  wood  ;  beautiful  cattle  browsing 
in  rich  pasturage  ;  and  all  this  often  in  the  smallest  space,  so 
that  a  glance  of  the  eye  takes  in  the  entire  picture.  The  con- 
stant green  of  England  is  to  me  the  great  charm  of  her  natural 
scenery ;  it  is  like  the  smile  on  woman's  face,  giving  expression 
to  every  change  of  feature.  I  am  sure  that  these  exquisite 
snuggerie.5  must  exert  a  favorable  influence  upon  the  domestic 
qualities     and  much  of  the  simplicity  of  English  character  may 


RURAL    SCENERY    OF    ENGLAND. 


45 


be  traccil  to  (ho  prevailing  love  of  rural  life.  You  may  travel 
all  over  Europe,  and  find  no  such  homes  as  are  everywhere  to  be 
met  with  in  England.  You  have  a  sense  of  tranquillity,  and  the 
spot,3  arc  favorable  to  thought.  I  love  the  pleasures  of  city  life, 
and  I  knov/  that  art,  science,  intellect,  literature,  are  in  a  great 
metropolis,  —  it  is  llie  rcyal  exchange  for  the  human  mind.  I 
appreciate  libraries  and  lectures,  collections,  galleries  and  mu- 
';eums ;  but  still,  when  I  enjoy  the  shade  of  venerable  elms  in  a 
j.ne  old  farm-house,  on  the  banks  of  a  river  which  almost  washes 
its  walls,  and  gaze  out  on  the  garniture  of  hill  and  vales,  I  am 
conscious  of  pleasure  which  London  or  New  York  cannot  afford. 
What  we  sadly  want,  in  our  happy  and  glorious  country,  is  to  cir- 
cumscribe the  beautiful,  and  learn  the  knack  of  creating  rural 
scenery  on  a  small  scale  in  our  sequestered  villas  and  cottages. 


IILNEuR\     COlTAijES. 


CHAPTER    IV. 

UON.  AND   E,EV    B_.  PTIST    NOEL MR.  GEORGE    PEABODY OPERA DINNER 

AT     RICHMOND    —UON.      STEPHEN     A.      DOUGLAS RECEPTION-NIGHT     AT 

h6n.    J.   H.    INGERSOLL'S,    the     AMERICAN     MINISTER THE     LORD     MAY- 
OR'S   SOIREE MR.  DEPUTY  BENOCH THOMAS    PRICE,  LL.D.  TOOVEY'j? 

BOOKSTORE  • DEPUTATION     FROM     SOUTHAMPTON TONE     OF     ENGLISH 

FEELING     TOWARDS     THE     UNITED     STATES AN     ENGLISH     TRAVELLER 

STREET   AMUSEMENTS SCENE    IN    AN    O.MNIEUS. 

On  our  first  Sunday  morning  in  London,  a  party  was  formed 
to  hear  the  Hon.  and  Eev.  33aptist  Noel,  brother  to  the  Earl  of 
Gainsborough.  Mr.  Noel  was  formerly  chaplain  to  the  queen ; 
but,  a  few  years  ago,  he  became  a  dissenter.  He  preaches  in 
a  very  plain  meeting-house,  formerly  occupied  by  the  Rev. 
John  Harrington  Evans,  also  a  Baptist  dissenter  from  the 
national  establishment.  The  place  of  worship  will  accommodate 
about  one  thousand  persons,  when  the  galleries  are  filled.  The 
congregation  is  large.  We  found  every  seat  filled,  and  benches 
in  the  aisles.  Mr.  Noel  is  about  fifty-four  years  of  age,  and 
looks  much  younger.  He  is  a  fine  figure,  and  has  a  resemblance 
to  the  engraving  of  Bishop  Heber.  The  singing  was  congrega- 
tional, without  any  organ  ;  all  present  seemed  to  unite,  and  the 
effect  was  excellent.  The  tunes  were  such  as  every  one  recog- 
nized. I  remember  that  Osioestry  and  Helmsley  were  used  that 
morning.  We  were  much  gratified  with  the  prayer  offered.  It 
was  uttered  slowly ;  the  petitions  were  very  minute  and  definite ; 
and  there  was  a  decided  avoidance  of  anything  like  set  phrases. 

The  text  was  in  the  fifth  chapter  of  the  first  Epistle  to  the 
Thessalonians,  from  first  to  the  fifth  verse :  "  But  of  the  times 
and  season?;,  brethren,  ye  have  no  need  that  I  write  unto  you," 


MR.   GEORGE    TEABODY.    OF   LOXDOX.  47 

&G.  The  congregation  seemed  furnished  with  Bibles,  and  evcrj 
one  appeared  to  turn  to  the  text.  The  discourse  was  expository  ; 
and  not  often  have  I  listened  to  such  a  noble  specimen  of  lectur- 
ing from  the  desk.  I  have  heard  this  preacher  when  he  was  far 
more  eloquent,  but  never  when  he  appeared  to  finer  advantage 
as  a  religious  instructor. 

We  left  St.  John's  Chapel  much  pleased  with  its  distinguislic  1 
minister,  and  we  should  all  like  to  listen  again  to  his  solemn 
teachings. 

One  of  the  first  persons  to  call  upon  Mr.  Yanderbilt  and  his 
family  in  London  was  our  distinguished  fellow-citizen,  Mr. 
George  Peabody,  whose  generous  hospitality  to  his  countrjmien 
has  rendered  him  so  well  known  to  liundreds  who  have  visited 
the  metropolis.  Possessed  of  ample  means,  this  gentleman 
delights  in  paying  attentions  to  all  who  come  to  him  with  proper 
claims  upon  his  notice.  Probably  no  American  resident  in  Eng- 
land has  done  as  nmch  as  Mr.  Peabody  in  bringing  the  best  men 
of  England  and  America  together,  and  thus  cementing  a  strong 
national  friendly  feeling.  The  celebration  of  the  fourth  of  July, 
18.51,  by  Mr.  Peabody,  when  he  entertained  a  thousand  guests, 
and  had  among  them  the  Duke  of  Wellington,  and  many  others 
of  the  peerage,  was  a  measure  that,  a  few  years  ago,  would  hardly 
have  been  anticipated;  and,  indeed,  cautious  folks  dissuaded  the 
large-hearted  man  from  attempting  it,  Mr.  P.  proffered  Mr.  and 
INIrs.  Vanderbilt  and  ladies  the  use  of  his  boxes  that  evening  at 
the  opera,  and  as  long  as  they  remained  in  town.  The  following 
notice  of  the  opera  was  furnished  me  by  the  kindness  of  one  of 
the  gentlemen  of  our  party,  who  was  present : 

"  OrERA    IN    LONDON. 

"  Meyerbeer's  great  opera,  '  Les  Huguenots,'  was  represented 
at  Covent  Garden.  It  was  the  height  of  the  season;  a  large  and 
fashionable    assemblage   filled    the   house;    England's  favorite, 


48  OPERA. 

Queen  Victoria,  and  Prince  Albert,  were  there,  and  many  of  the 
fairest  and  noblest  of  the  land ;  yet  we  were  disappointed.  The 
spectacle  was  not  so  gorgeous  and  brilliant  as  we  had  expected 
on  a  court-night,  —  neither  in  the  first  coiip  d'ml,  the  beauty  of 
the  ladies,  nor  the  elegance  of  their  toilet.  The  theatre  is  vast, 
and  handsomely  decorated;  but  the  boxes,  being  very  deep,  and 
partitioned  off  all  the  way  up,  conceal  half  the  occupants,  and 
present  an  air  of  heaviness.  The  queen  and  her  suite  occupied 
three  double  boxes,  on  the  left  side  of  the  stage.  She  came  in 
shortly  after  the  overture  was  played.  There  was  no  ostentation 
in  her  manner,  and  no  recognition  by  the  audience  of  the  pres- 
ence of  majesty.  The  royal  fauteuil,  placed  in  the  centre  of  the 
box,  did  not  seem  to  please  her ;  and,  declining  the  proffered  aid 
of  the  lords-in-waiting,  she,  with  perfect  nonchalance,  rose,  and 
drew  another  chair  from  the  back  to  the  front,  and  seated  her- 
self The  queen  is  very  robust  and  youthful-looking.  She 
wore  a  rich  white  dress,  exceedingly  decolte,  covered  with  point 
lace,  and  one  ornament  of  great  value  —  a  magnificent  pearl  — 
on  the  stomacher.     She  wore  no  diadem,  or  insignia. 

"  Prince  Albert  is  a  tall,  stout-looking  man,  light-haired, 
and  partially  bald.  His  appearance  was  anything  but  aristo- 
cratic, notwithstanding  he  exhibited  a  large  star  on  his  left 
breast,  and  a  wide  crimson  silk  riband  over  a  white  waistcoat. 
The  queen  and  her  royal  consort  were  very  quiet,  and  attentive 
to  the  performance.  They  left,  shortly  before  it  terminated,  with 
as  little  ceremony  as  they  had  entered. 

"  We  searched  scrutinizingly  among  the  noble  circles  to  dis- 
cover something  in  form  or  feature  marking  the  stamp  of  hered- 
itary nobility ;  but  in  vain.  There  were  some  exceptions,  though 
not  numerous  enough  to  characterize  the  mass ;  and  we  concluded 
that,  divested  of  their  rank  and  privileges,  they  were  only  com 
mon  clay,  after  all. 

"The  opera  was  glorious.  The  whole  'get  up'  was  grand, 
far  surpassing  anything  ever  seen  in  America  ;  —  the  scenery  well 


OPERA  —  MR.  PEABODY's  DINNER.         49 

painted,  and  admirably  illustrative  of  the  times  represented;  the 
stage  business  thoroughly  managed;  a  powerful  and  efficient- 
chorus;  a  numerous  and  exquisitely-trained  orchestra,  led  by 
the  fiimous  Costa,  and  the  principal  roles  sung  and  acted  by 
Grisi,  Mario,  Castellan,  Formes  and  Belletti.  Some  of  us,  who 
had  heard  Grisi  a  dozen  years  before,  remarked  that  her  voice 
had  measurably  lost  its  freshness  and  volume,  while  her  figure 
had  gained  in  stoutness.  But  the  irresistible  attractions  of  her 
sublime  declamation,  her  impassioned  acting,  and  the  enchanting 
tenderness  of  her  smile,  remained  with  undiminished  power. 
Mario  has  the  loveliest  voice  ever  heard  in  man,  at  the  same 
time  virile  and  sonorous.  He  is  still  in  the  prime  of  his  remark- 
able manly  beauty,  and  still,  without  compeer,  the  first  tenor  in 
the  world.  Castellan  has  not  improved  since  she  visited  Amer- 
ica. Her  singing  is  flexible  and  brilliant,  cold  and  unsympa- 
thetic. Formes — now  that  Lablache's  once  Titan  powers  are 
on  the  wane  —  stands  at  the  head  of  all  bassos.  His  voice  is 
very  remarkable,  —  thrj  most  powerful  in  the  low  notes,  and  the 
deepest,  known ;  it  moves,  as  it  were,  in  solid  squares.  Belletti, 
Jenny  Lind's  favorite  singer,  took  the  part  of  San  Bris.  For 
him  it  was  an  ungracious  role,  and  he  did  not  show  to  advantage. 
It  was  mainly  recitative.  We  missed  those  beautiful  cantabile 
airs  which,  in  the  concert-room,  made  him  the  unrivalled  bari- 
tone. The  opera  in  London  is  a  wonderful  performance ;  the 
audiences  there  are  more  appreciative  than  in  the  New  World, 
and  the  tout  ensemble  produces  an  efi"ect  impossible  to  conceive 
from  any  description." 

Four  of  our  party  accepted  an  invitation  to  dine  with  Mr. 
Peabody  at  Richmond,  to  meet  Mr.  Senator  Douglas,  who,  like 
ourselves,  was  taking  a  tour  of  observation.  No  one  who  has 
read  much  respecting  England  can  fail  to  know  that  Richmond 
has  long  been  renowned  for  its  exquisite  scenery.  It  was  called 
by  the  Saxons  the  "  Skene;'  or  beautiful.     Thomson,  the  poet 


50  RICHMOND  —  HON.  J.   R.  IXGERSOLL. 

of  the  Seasons,  wrote  in?aiy  of  his  sweetest  descriptions  while 
staying  in  this  place ;  and  his  immortal  poem  is  almost  a  pano- 
rama of  the  scenery  for  ten  miles  around.  On  the  hill  the 
spectator  obtains  a  view  of  the  most  impressive  panorama  of 
English  landscape  which  the  country  affords.  I  would  advise  all 
travellers,  who  can  afford  the  time,  to  devote  a  day  or  two  to 
this  vicinity.  In  Richmond  Park  there  are  the  pleasantest 
walks,  and  oaks  which  might  awaken  the  devotion  of  a  Druid ; 
and  the  American  tourist  is  reminded  of  the  oak-opening  in 
Michigan.  The  traveller  will  not  fail  to  be  charmed  with  Kings- 
ton, Ditton,  Hampton  Court,  and  Bushy  Park.  The  dinner  was 
an  elegant  repast,  and  we  met  at  table  a  number  of  our  country- 
men whom  it  was  a  pleasure  to  meet; — among  others,  Gen. 
Cooper,  of  New  York,  —  who,  with  his  ftimily,  have  made  a  very 
extended  European  tour,  —  Captain  Folsom,  &c.  Mr.  Douglas 
made  a  very  sensible  and  eloquent  reply-speech  ;  and  I  think  that 
all  who  were  present  were  much  gratified  with  his  practical, 
enlightened  and  patriotic  views.  Our  minister  at  the  Court  of 
London  —  the  Hon.  Joseph  H.  IngersoU  —  held  a  levee  during  our 
stay  in  town,  to  which  Mr.  Vanderbilt  and  his  friends  received 
an  invitation.  The  attendance  was  large,  and  the  party  a  very 
fashionable  one.  The  display  of  diamonds  was  very  brilliant. 
General  attention  was  directed  to  Mr.  Vanderbilt,  who  was  quite 
the  man  of  the  occasion ;  and  all  seemed  desirous  to  obtain  an 
introduction  to  one  whose  excursion  was  the  great  topic  of 
newspaper  correspondence  and  general  conversation.  Mr.  Inger- 
soU was  very  courteous,  and,  with  his  accomplished  niece.  Miss 
Wilcox,  seemed  desirous  to  render  us  every  facility  to  make  our 
visit  in  London  agreeable.  At  this  entertainment  many  of  the 
nobility  expressed  an  earnest  wish  that  Mr.  Vanderbilt  would 
bring  his  yacht  round  to  the  Thames,  and  enable  the  fashionable 
world  —  then,  of  course,  in  London  —  to  visit  the  North  Star.  Mr. 
V.  would  have  been  glad  to  gratify  these  requests ;  but  he  had 
no  desire  to  take  a  step  which  might  appear  like  ostentation, 


LORD    MAYOR — PARTY    AT    MANSION    HOUSE.  51 

and,  moreover,  he  feared  that  the  steamer  would  probably  meet 
with  obstructions  in  the  river. 

On  the  <Sth  of  June  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Vanderbilt,  and  several 
members  of  their  family,  attended  a  soiree,  at  the  Mansion 
House,  to  which  we  had  been  politely  invited  by  the  Lord  Mayor. 
This  was  a  favorable  occasion  to  observe  the  splendor  of  a  Lon- 
don civic  entertainment.  The  magnificent  apartments  are  worthy 
of  England's  metropolis.  We  were  courteously  received  by  the 
chief  magistrate  and  the  Lady  Mayoress. 

The  Lord  Mayor,  this  year,  is  the  Right  Honorable  Thomas 
Challis,  a  wealthy  merchant  in  hides,  and  a  member  of  Parlia- 
ment. This  gentleman  is  a  distinguished  dissenter,  and  belongs 
to  the  body  of  Christians  known  as  "  The  Connection  of  the  late 
Countess  of  Huntingdon."  His  lordship  is  the  treasurer  of  the 
college  at  Cheshunt,  where  the  clergy  of  this  denomination 
receive  their  theological  training.  On  this  occasion  there  were, 
probably,  some  twelve  or  fifteen  hundred  persons  present,  in- 
cluding the  Archbishop  of  Canterbury  and  seven  other  prelates, 
several  members  of  the  British  cabinet,  and  a  large  number  of 
the  peerage.  The  party  embraced  many  distinguished  literary 
men,  and  Mr.  Carlyle  had  many  attentions  shown  him.  The 
ball-room  over  the  great  Egyptian  hall  was  filled  with  a  unique 
collection  of  educational  apparatus;  and  this  had  been  placed 
here  for  the  examination  of  the  party,  many  of  whom  were  dele- 
gates from  all  parts  of  the  kingdom,  attending  a  great  educa- 
tional meeting.  A  more  interesting  spectacle  than  was  here 
afforded  can  hardly  be  imagined;  and,  with  such  means  and 
appliances  as  we  saw,  the  schools  of  Great  Britain  must  be  in  a 
prosperous  condition.  Maps,  charts,  globes  and  philosophical 
apparatus,  were  everywhere  to  be  seen ;  and  the  access  to  the 
room  was  crowded  quite  as  densely  as  that  leading  to  the  place 
for  refreshment.  Among  other  distinguished  visitors,  I  noticed 
Miss  Greenfield,  the  "  Black  Swan,"  who  was  attended  by  a 
colored  gentleman 
5 


52  REV.  DR.   COX  —  DR.  I'RICE  —  BIBLIOPOLISTS. 

It  would  be  wrong  to  omit  mention  of  our  obligations  to  Mr. 
Deputy  Benoch,  whose  polite  attentions  will  be  long  remembered 
by  many  of  the  North  Star  party.  This  gentleman  was  exceed- 
ingly kind  in  pointing  out  the  notables  assembled. 

I  felt  pained  at  the  necessity  imposed  upon  me  to  be  appar 
ently  neglectful  of  many  dear  and  valued  friends  in  London  and 
its  neighborhood  ;  but  a  stay  limited  to  ten  or  twelve  days,  and 
many  of  which  were  entirely  due  to  those  of  the  party  who  were 
in  London  for  the  first  time,  precluded  the  possibility  of  calling 
on  many  whom  I  longed  to  see. 

We  visited  the  Rev.  Dr.  Cox,  of  Hackney,  —  so  well  known  in 
America  from  his  visit,  in  company  with  Dr.  Hoby,  in  1835, 
We  found  the  venerable  man  in  usual  health,  and  little  supposed 
that  his  death  was  so  near  an  event.  On  our  arrival  at  New 
York,  we  learned  that  he  died  September  5th. 

We  had  the  pleasure  to  spend  some  delightful  hours  with 
Thomas  Price,  LL.D.,  the  distinguished  editor  of  the  Eclectic 
Review,  one  of  the  ablest  English  periodicals,  and  which  always 
has  in  its  support  the  ablest  pens  of  the  liberal  party.  In  this 
review  appeared  the  best  productions  of  the  late  John  Foster. 
I  made  several  agreeable  lounges  at  the  great  bookstores  of 
London,  and  was  especially  delighted  with  the  glorious  collection 
of  old  books  at  Mr.  Toovey's,  42  Piccadilly.  This  vast 
library  is  peculiarly  rich  in  works  illustrative  of  English  history, 
and  I  never  met  with  so  many  of  the  county  historians  as  are 
here  gathered  together.  If  any  man  wants  to  see  the  finest  pos- 
sible specimens  of  binding,  let  him  call  at  Toovey's,  where  he 
will  find  the  work  of  Lewis,  Payne,  Duseuil,  Derome,  Montague, 
Kalthoeber,  and  all  the  best  binders  of  past  times.  On  one 
occasion,  I  met  with  three  distinguished  bibliopolists  at  this  shop, 
—  Lord  Hastings,  Sir  David  Dundass,  and  Mr.  Henry  Foss. 
These  gentlemen  all  spoke  of  the  large  collections  of  books,  of 
high  character,  which  are  constantly  exported  to  order  from  the 
United  States,  and  raising  the  prices  of  old  standard  works  as  a 


MAYOR   OF   SOUTHAMPTON'S   INVITATION.  53 

consequence.  It  was  gratifying  to  hear  their  remarks  in  relation 
to  our  United  States  ministers  to  the  court  of  London.  It  was 
observed  that  no  country  had  ever  sent  such  a  number  of  great 
men  as  the  United  States,  —  Adams,  Jay,  Pinkney,  King,  Galla- 
tin, J.  Q.  Adams,  Rush,  Bancroft,  Everett  and  IngersoU,  were 
regarded  as  first-class  men ;  whilst  Stevenson  and  Abbot  Law- 
rence have  left  an  enviable  reputation  as  gentlemen  of  the  true 
old  English  school.  It  gave  us  much  pleasure  to  meet  with  a 
large  number  of  our  fellow-citizens,  from-  different  states  in  the 
Union,  while  we  were  in  London  ;  and  they  all  appeared  happy 
to  pay  their  respects  to  one  so  well  known  at  home  as  Mr.  Van- 
derbilt.  I  found  ray  old  friend,  the  Hon.  J.  T.  Van  Allen,  late 
U.  S.  Charge  d'Afiaires  at  Equador,  still  enjoying  the  best  English 
society,  and  as  happy  as  I  left  him  in  1851. 

While  we  were  in  this  place,  a  deputation  from  Southampton 
waited  on  Mr.  Vanderbilt,  consisting  of  the  mayor  of  the  town 
and  several  members  of  the  corporation  ;  the  object  of  their  visit 
was  to  present  an  invitation  to  Mr.  V.  and  his  party  to  partake 
of  a  public  entertainment  proffered  by  the  principal  merchants 
and  tradesmen  of  that  borough.  This  kind  expression  of  public 
sentiment  would  have  been  respectfully  declined ;  but  it  was 
found  that  such  arrangements  had  already  been  made,  that  it 
would  be  wrong  to  disappoint  the  wishes  of  the  good  people  of 
the  town. 

I  wish  to  offer  some  remarks  upon  the  tone  of  feeling  which 
I  found  prevalent  in  England,  with  those  persons  in  whose  society 
I  happened  to  pass  my  time,  in  relation  to  the  United  States. 
There  is  a  vex'y  general  sentiment  and  pride  entertained  by  the 
country  at  our  wonderful  success  and  advancement  in  the  scale  of 
nations,  arising  from  the  fact  that  we  arc  of  English  origin. 
An  Englishman  loves  to  think  that  those  who  speak  his  language, 
and  have  the  laws  of  his  land,  and  the  religion  of  his  fathers, 
should  have  in  less  than  eighty  years  become  a  governnient 
reckoning  twenty-five  millions.     He  is  pleased  to  hear  of  our 


54  ENGLISH    FEELING    TOWARDS    AMERICA. 

extensive  resources  as  regards  variety  of  climate  ;  and  you  can 
seldom  talk  with  any  person  in  England  who  has  not  a  relative, 
dear  friend,  or  former  neighbor,  now  settled  in  the  Union,  If 
the  United  States  should  ever  be  placed  in  a  critical  position, 
and  her  interests  be  at  stake,  England  would  rise  up,  with  the 
voice  as  of  one  man,  and  fly  to  our  aid.  The  liberty  of  speech 
is  quite  as  well  understood  in  England  as  with  us,  and  as  freely 
indulged;  nothing  social,  religious,  political,  escapes  their  scrutiny 
and  discussion;  the  popular  mind  has  been  directed  to  great 
subjects,  and  important  results  have  been  effected  by  public 
opinion.  There  is  a  disposition  to  regard  all  reforms  as  possible ; 
and  the  great  subject  of  slavery  is  one  that  has  taken  hold  of  the 
public  mind  far  more  than  it  has  ever  interested  the  govern- 
ment. Hence  all  classes  talk  of  slavery  in  America  as  a  thing 
that  can  be  reached,  —  ay,  and  easily.  This  arises  from  total 
unacquaintedness  with  the  political  relations  of  our  country,  and 
the  state  of  parties  in  our  political  world.  Only  let  an  intelli- 
gent Englishman  reside  in  the  States  a  year  or  two,  or  travel 
through  it,  and  he  is  almost  sure  to  correct  his  opinions,  and 
moderate  his  censures,  upon  this  vexed  point.  We  are  far  too 
sensitive  about  foreign  sentiment  respecting  our  habits,  manners 
and  institutions.  Perhaps  we  are  too  exacting ;  we  are  cer- 
tainly foolishly  impatient  under  criticism,  and  this  is  encouraged 
by  a  few  heady,  reckless  men  who  have  the  control  of  newspapers, 
and  who,  by  thoughtless  and  even  wicked  articles,  strive  to 
kindle  up  a  bad  feeling  between  the  two  countries,  who  have 
more  in  common  between  them  of  momentous  interest  than  any 
other  two  nations  on  the  globe.  I  have  never  known  a  sensible 
American,  who  visited  England,  who  did  not  leave  it  with  in- 
creased respect  for  English  character ;  and  I  am  sure  that 
all  sensible,  educated  Englishmen  who  visit  our  shores  find 
enough  to  praise  ;  and  they  would  say,  "  If  we  must  change 
England  for  another  land,  let  our  homes  be  in  America  !  " 

The  influence  of  America  upon  Great  Britain  is  felt  more  and 


EXGLLSII    OPINIONS  —  STREET   AMUSEMENTS.  55 

more  every  year.  Our  intercourse  must  be  very  intimate.  Not 
only  will  England  need  our  cotton ;  she  wants  our  wool  (which 
she  believes  will  soon  be  the  best  in  the  world),  our  wheat,  our 
corn,  our  beef,  pork,  hams,  cheese  and  butter;  and,  if  we  provide 
these  things  for  her  market,  we  must  become  a  great  manufactur- 
ing people  as  well,  and  still  we  shall  be  the  best  customer  for 
her  exports.  The  severest  censures  I  heard  upon  our  country 
came  from  men  of  great  wisdom,  and  benevolence,  and  practical 
good  sense ;  and  I  confess  that  I  think  their  remarks  have  much 
force,  and  that  there  is  too  much  occasion  for  their  utterance. 
They  express  a  fear  that  there  is  not  in  our  country  a  sufficient 
pride  in  labor ;  that  we  are  already  regarding  it  with  aversion, 
and  that  luxury  is  likely  to  be  our  bane.  We  do  want  more 
nationality,  more  patriotism;  and  the  people  are  far  too  prone  to 
value  that  which  has  crossed  the  ocean  to  that  which  is  fabricated 
at  their  own  doors.  A  very  wise  and  thinking  man,  who  had 
gone  through  our  country,  told  me  in  England  that  the  most 
justifiable  object  of  pride  he  saw  in  America,  to  an  American,  was 
Lowell.  The  remark  was  also  made  by  this  gentleman,  that  in 
his  visit  he  was  grieved  to  find  the  children  of  men  who  had 
grown  rich  by  labor  regarding  all  employment  as  dishonorable. 
Certainly  our  large  cities  do  afford  sad  instances  of  a  jDurse- 
proud  spirit ;  and  the  only  hope  is,  that  when  wealth  is  lavished, 
expended,  the  next  generation  must  go  to  work  again ;  but  the 
contagion  of  example,  and  the  want  of  virtuous  and  wise  training, 
will  first  bring  a  sad  harvest  of  crime,  folly  and  misery,  to  society. 
Few  things  amused  our  party  more  than  the  out-door,  street 
exhibitions  in  London.  In  Jermyn-street,  directly  in  front  of 
our  hotel,  every  afternoon  a  set  of  men  in  semi-mountebank  and 
Highland  costumes  went  through  all  sorts  of  fetes,  rivalling  the 
Ravel  family.  The  party  consisted  of  three  or  four,  and  some- 
times five.  The  street  was  regarded  as  their  legitimate  board, 
and  cloths  were  laid  down  and  the  antics  played  off"  without  any 
hindrance  from  the  police,  who  frcqacntly  looked  on.  The 
5# 


56  ASCOT    RACES. 

eyes  of  the  performers  were  often  directed  to  the  windows  of 
our  hotel  and  one  opposite ;  and  I  fancy  the  returns  were  tolera- 
bly satisfactory,  as  they  came  day  by  day.  The  Happy  Family, 
too,  proved  a  constant  source  of  interest ;  while  Punch  and  Judy 
proved  as  omnipotent  in  attraction  as  they  were  in  the  beginning, 
and  ever  will  be. 

Mr.  Vanderbilt  and  some  of  the  gentlemen  attended  the  Ascot 
races ;  and,  in  going  over  from  Windsor,  they  occupied  seats  in 
an  omnibus,  and  the  subject  of  conversation  happened  to  be  the 
American  steam  yacht  at  Southampton.  One  of  the  persons 
present  said  that  he  had  been  to  see  her,  and  gave  a  pretty 
glowing  account  of  the  North  Star.  He  spoke  of  her  elegance 
and  accommodations  at  full  length,  and  then  ended  by  remark- 
ing that  the  commodore  was  a  wide-awake  man ;  that  he  had 
twelve  sons  on  board,  and  made  them  work  the  ship ;  and  that  he 
saw  seven  or  eight  of  them  rowing  the  barge  ashore.  Mr.  V. 
and  his  son,  sitting  next  to  the  speaker,  smiled  and  laid  low. 


CHAPTER  Y. 

INTEREST    EXCITED    BY    ARRIVAL    OF     THE    NORTH    STAR LONDON     DAILY 

NEWS DULWICn    GALLERY MR.    THOMAS    COLLEY    GRATTAN A  QUICK 

TRIP    TO    LEII'SIC OUR   RETURN    TO    SOUTHAMPTON VISIT    TO    NETLEY 

ABBEY HISTORICAL    NOTICE  —  SCENERY REV.  DR.    KREBBS EXCUR- 
SIONS  REV.    ALEXANDER   MACLAREN SERVICES    OF    THE    SABBATH, 

The  arrival  of  the  North  Star  in  England  was  an  event  which 
called  out  the  attention  of  the  public  press  all  over  the  kingdom  ; 
and  the  London  daily  papers  contained  numerous  descriptions 
of  the  ship,  and  various  articles  upon  her  proprietor  and  his 
undertaking.  Some  of  them  were  amusing  enough.  The  follow- 
ing article  appeared  in  the  London  Daily  Neivs,  June  4 : 

"  A  WORB    ABOUT    MR.  VANDERBILT's    YACHT. 

"An  American  merchant  has  just  arrived  in  London,  on  a 
pleasure  trip.  He  has  come  by  train  from  Southampton,  and 
left  his  private  yacht  behind  him  in  dock  at  that  port.  This 
yacht  is  a  monster  steamer.  Her  saloon  is  described  as  larger 
and  more  magnificent  than  that  of  any  ocean  steamer  afloat,  and 
is  said  to  surpass  in  splendor  the  Queen's  yacht.  The  walls  of 
the  dining-room  are  clothed  with  a  new  material,  resembling 
polished  marble  and  malachite.  The  building  of  the  vessel 
alone  cost  one  hundred  thousand  pounds.  The  expense  of  keep- 
ing it  up  is  three  hundred  pounds  a  week.  Listening  to  the  de- 
tails of  the  grandeur  of  this  new  floating  palace,  it  seems  natural 
to  think  upon  the  riches  of  her  owner,  and  to  associate  him  with 
the  Cosmo  de  Medicis,  the  Andrea  Fuggers,  the  Jaqucs  Coeurs, 
the  Richard  Whittingtons.  of  the  past ;  but  this  is  wrong.     Mr. 


58  LONDON    DAILY    NEWS. 

Vanderbilt  is  a  sign  of  the  times.  The  mediEeval  merchants 
just  named  stood  out  in  bold  relief  from  the  great  society  of 
their  day.  Mr.  Vanderbilt  is  a  legitimate  product  of  his  country, 
—  the  Medicis,  Fugge^,  and  others  were  exceptional  cases  in 
theirs.  They  were  fortunate  monopolists,  who,  by  means  of 
capital  and  crushing  privileges,  sucked  up  the  wealth  of  the 
community.  They  were  not  a  healthy  growth,  but  a  kind  of 
enormous  wen  on  the  body  politic.  It  took  Florence  nearly 
fifteen  centuries  to  produce  one  Cosmo,  and  she  never  brought 
forth  another.  America  was  not  known  four  centuries  ago  ;  yet 
she  turns  out  her  Vanderbilts,  small  and  large,  every  year. 
America,  which  was  only  discovered  by  a  countryman  of  Cosmo 
running  against  it  by  mistake  on  his  way  to  the  Indies,  is  the 
great  arena  in  which  the  individual  energies  of  man,  uncramped 
by  oppressive  social  institutions,  or  absurd  social  traditions,  have 
full  plaji",  and  arrive  at  gigantic  development.  It  is  the  tendency 
of  American  institutions  to  foster  the  general  welfare,  and  to 
permit  the  unchecked  powers  of  the  highly  gifted  to  occupy  a 
place  in  the  general  framework  of  society  which  they  can  obtain 
nowhere  else.  The  great  feature  to  be  noticed  in  America  is 
that  all  its  citizens  have  full  permission  to  run  the  race  in  which 
Mr.  Vanderbilt  has  gained  such  immense  prizes.  In  other 
countries,  on  the  contrary,  they  are  trammelled  by  a  thousand 
restrictions.  Look,  for  instance,  at  the  land  to  which  the  dis- 
coverer of  America  was  hastening,  as  he  thought,  when  he  ran 
against  the  New  World.  Look  at  India.  The  whole  wealth  of 
the  country  is  absorbed,  and  the  development  of  its  industry  is 
checked,  by  a  government  that  hangs  like  an  incubus  over  it,  and 
paralyzes  its  free  motion.  Its  capacities  for  wealth  are  enormous, 
but  no  one  makes  use  of  them.  Its  population  is  stationary  or 
degenerating.  It  can  with  difficulty  pay  up  the  revenue  which 
its  masters  exact  from  it.  It  is  becoming  bankrupt,  and  will  be 
perhaps  chargeable  to  the  mother  country.  Its  hundred  millions 
of  inhabitants   vegetate   in   poverty,  their   ideas  limited  to   the 


LONDON   DAILY   NEWS.  59 

narrowest  of  all  spheres.  While  hundreds  of  thousands  of  emi- 
grants are  pouring  annually  into  America,  and  becoming  absorbed 
into  the  population  of  that  country,  adding  to  its  wealth  and  their 
own,  India  is  a  sealed  territory  to  nearly  all  except  those  who 
have  friends  in  Lcadenhall-street  or  Cannon-row.  What  can 
man  do  in  a  country  like  India,  but  vegetate  among  the  oppressed, 
or  live  the  life  of  a  Sybarite  among  the  oppressors  ?  Is  it  won- 
derful that  at  the  first  sound  of  the  railway  whistle  the  Lotos- 
eating  lords  of  the  land  should  rush  away  up  the  country,  far 
away  from  a  sound  which  everyw^here  is  connected  with  energy, 
wealth,  activity,  freedom  and  progress  ? 

"But  it  will  be  said  —  why  is  the  greatness  of  America  to  be 
unnaturally  magnified  by  being  compared  with  India  ?  Why 
not  compare  it  with  England,  where  there  are  free  institutions, 
immense  manufactures  and  commerce,  and  where  there  is  no 
more  impediment  to  a  man's  becoming  a  Vanderbilt  than  in 
America  ?  Walk  into  the  Royal  Exchange  in  the  afternoon 
just  before  four  o'clock,  and  you  could  be  shown  numbers  of  men 
who  could  do  —  if  they  thought  it  worth  the  while  —  everything 
that  Vanderbilt  has  done,  twice  over.  Look  at  Liverpool.  Look 
at  Manchestei".  Are  not  men  of  colossal  fortunes  to  be  found 
there  ?  Is  there  anything  in  the  air  or  the  institutions  of  these 
towns  to  prevent  men  becoming  possessors  of  incomes  that  are 
reckoned  by  tens  of  thousands  ?  Possibly  not :  but  there  is  some- 
thing in  the  air  or  the  institutions  of  the  country  of  which  these 
towns  are  a  fraction  that  prevents  these  men  living  as  becomes 
the  creators  of  stupendous  fortunes  by  their  own  industry.  Your 
men  of  rank  here  —  your  makers  of  millions  for  themselves,  and 
tens  of  millions  for  the  country  —  too  often  spend  their  time, 
their  intellect,  their  labor,  in  order  that  they  may  be  able  to 
take  rank  among  a  class  of  men  who  occupy  their  present  position 
in  virtue  of  what  was  done  for  them  by  some  broad-shouldered 
adventurer,  who,  fortunately  for  them,  lived  eight  hundred  years 
ago  in  Normandy.     Those  who  ought  to  be   the  Vanderbilts  of 


60  .LONDON    DAILY   NEWS. 

England  would  shrink  from  employing  their  wealth  in  the  mag- 
nificent manner  adopted  by  their  American  friend.  They  would 
dread  the  effect  of  making  any  unusual  displaj^,  which  would 
surely  subject  them  to  the  reproach  of  being  millionaires  and 
parvenus.  Here  is  the  great  difference  between  the  two  countries. 
In  England  a  man  is  too  apt  to  be  ashamed  of  having  made  his 
own  fortune,  unless  he  has  done  so  in  one  of  the  few  roads  which 
the  aristocracy  condescend  to  travel  by  —  the  bar,  the  church, 
or  the  army.  And,  if  he  is  vulgar  enough  not  to  be  ashamed  of 
himself,  his  wife  and  children  make  amends,  by  sedulously  avoid- 
ing everything  which  can  put  other  people  in  mind  of  their 
origin.  It  was  thought  something  superhumanly  heroic  in  Sir 
Robert  Peel  to  confess  that  he  was  the  son  of  a  cotton-spinner, 
although  everybody  knew  it.  Persons  who  have  perused  the 
biography  of  Mr.  Pendennis  will  remember  how  the  gifted  and 
hard-working  father  of  that  gentleman  looked  back  on  his  long 
and  useful  career  in  the  medical  profession  as  a  thing  to  be 
especially  forgotten,  and  never  thought  himself  a  true  man  till 
he  was  enabled  to  stand  in  gaiters,  like  a  true  landed  proprietor, 
at  the  gate  of  his  miniature  domain  of  Fair-oaks.  The  ancestral 
Pendennis  of  the  medical  profession  is  the  type  of  English 
society. 

"  Does  the  reader  see  what  looms  through  these  parallels  ? 
We  wish  to  point  out,  as  we  have  pointed  out  before,  the  essen- 
tial weakness,  the  vicious  condition,  of  English  society.  In 
precisely  the  same  manner  (although  in  an  infinitely  greater 
degree)  as  the  English  army  is  damaged  by  the  '  cold  shade  of 
aristocracy,'  so  are  English  society  and  the  English  nation  vitiated 
by  the  aristocratic  prejudices  that  run  through  it.  Between  the 
cobbler  who  patches  a  shoe,  and  the  merchant  who  imports  the 
leather  to  make  it,  there  are  some  three  or  four  grades,  the 
members  of  each  of  which  would  scorn  to  associate  with  those 
of  the  grade  below.  The  merchant  himself  hopes  that  he  or  his 
children  may  ^yalk  at  last  amongst  the  lords  of  the  land,  and, 


LONDON   DAILY   NEWS.  61 

as  a  step  to  this,  lie  takes  care  to  have  his  children  educated 
where  they  shall  lose  all  traces  of  the  impressions  that  may 
have  been  made  upon  them  by  those  who  dwell  in  his  own  circle, 
and  where  they  may  acquire  the  habits  and  customs  of  the  world 
to  which  he  fondly  hopes  they  may  aspire. 

"  It  is  time  that  the  millionaire  should  cease  to  be  ashamed 
of  having  made  his  own  fortune.  It  is  time  that  parvenu  should 
be  looked  on  as  a  word  of  honor.  It  is  time  that  the  middle 
classes  should  take  the  place  which  is  their  own,  in  the  world 
which  they  have  made.  The  middle  classes  have  made  the 
modern  world.  The  Montmorencis,  the  Howards,  the  Percys, 
made  the  past  world,  —  and  they  had  their  reward.  Let  them 
give  place  to  better  men.  It  is  not  the  strong  arm  which  now 
founds  nations,  or  makes  them  great.  The  work  has  been  taken 
out  of  the  hands  of  the  mighty  in  war,  and  given  to  those  who 
are  strong  in  council, — to  the  lords  of  the  elements,  to  the 
tamers  of  the  great  forces  of  nature.  These  must  take  their 
position.  They  must  assert  it,  and  scorn  to  put  up  with  the 
faded  distinctions  that  formed  the  glory  of  the  ruling  classes 
centuries  back.  There  are  men  who  feel  this  now.  There  are 
not  wanting,  even  in  this  country,  men  who  know  their  own 
dignity  too  well  to  think  that  it  can  be  increased  by  being  trans- 
planted to  another  circle  of  society.  We  want  the  Vanderbilts 
of  England  to  feel  what  they  are,  and  to  show  it.  We  don't 
ask  each  of  them  to  build  a  monster  yacht.  We  do  ask  that 
they  would  assert  the  greatness  of  their  own  position.  We  do 
require  that  they  shall  do  everything,  by  providing  amply  for 
education,  to  elevate  the  class  to  which  they  belong,  and  put  it 
upon  the  level  to  which  it  is  entitled.  The  middle  classes  of 
England  are  the  creators  of  its  wealth,  and  the  source  of  its 
power.  Let  them  take  example  from  America,  and  not  shrink 
from  acting  as  if  they  knew  this.  If  they  could  be  brought  to 
let  their  children  become  as  distinguished  for  hi<jh  mental  and 
moral  cultivation,  by  an  improved  system  of  education,  as  they 


62  DULWICII    GALLERY. 

themselves  are  for  their  great  practical  knowledge,  the  classes 
which  now  virtually  make  the  greatness  of  the  country  would 
become  its  actual  rulers,  and  the  only  obstacles  to  its  indefinite 
progress  would  be  removed." 

The  state  of  the  weather  is  in  England  a  never-failing  topic 
of  conversation  among  her  population.  This  arises  from  its  fre- 
quent changes.  During  our  visit  in  London  of  ten  or  twelve 
days,  we  had  no  reason  to  complain;  it  was  charming,  and  all 
the  fine  region  about  the  city  was  seen  to  the  best  advantage. 
I  could  not  be  in  London  without  a  hasty  visit  to  Dulwich,  to 
take  a  look  at  my  old  favorite  pictures,  in  a  gallery  which  in 
early  days  seemed  marvellous,  and,  now  that  I  have  seen  other 
larger  ones,  still  delights  me ;  for  it  contains  less  rubbish  and 
mediocrity  than  almost  any  gallery  I  can  mention.  My  admira- 
tion is  always  ready  when  1  gaSe  at  Rembrandt's  Jacob's  Dream, 
and  the  Martyrdom  of  St.  Sebastian,  reputed  to  be  a  Guide.  I 
pretend  to  no  connoisseurship  in  painting,  but  I  know  that  I  am 
pleased  with  a  good  picture ;  and  I  think  I  am  never  more  alive 
to  thought,  nor  more  disposed  to  affection,  than  when  returning 
from  a  capital  collection  of  paintings. 

I  cannot  omit  to  speak  of  the  pleasure  which  we  experienced 
in  meeting  with  our  friend  Mr.  Thomas  Colley  Grattan,  who 
was  formerly  Her  Majesty's  consul  at  Boston.  This  gentle- 
man, so  well  known  by  his  charming  works  of  fiction  and  his 
admirable  social  qualities,  is  now  resident  in  London,  enjoying 
the  finest  health,  and,  as  usual,  the  object  of  warm  attachment 
to  his  numerous  friends.  The  services  which  this  gentleman 
rendered  to  his  country  during  the  period  in  which  he  repre- 
sented her  in  Massachusetts  were  most  important;  and  to  his 
kindness  and  humanity  many  a  stranger  in  a  strange  land  has 
been  indebted  for  substantial,  valuable  aid,  and  judicious  advice. 
England  never  had  a  more  valuable  representative  in  our  country 
than  Mr.  Grattan. 


A    QUICK    TRIP    TO    LEIPSIC.  63 

I  fear  that  tlie  ladies  would  hardly  forgive  me  if  I  should  not 
eay  that  they  experienced  much  enjoyment  in  a  visit  to  Madame 
Tussaud's  great  Museum  of  notables  in  wax.  Indeed,  this  is  a 
wonderfully  curious  place,  and  it  grows  better  worth  a  visit  every 
year.  Here  is  the  noble  old  warrior,  the  late  Warden  of  the 
Cinque  Ports,  sleeping  that  rest  which  knows  no  awakening  till 
the  last  great  trumpet  sound.  Here,  too,  is  Napoleon's  camp- 
carriage  ;  and  a  most  comfortable  one  it  is  too ;  it  was  captured 
at  Waterloo.  I  cannot  mention  a  hundredth  part  of  the  groups 
and  individuals  here  to  be  seen.  The  Royal  Princes  of  Eng- 
land look  like  pretty  children.  We  were  pleased  with  Shaks- 
peare  in  his  youth,  bluff  Harry  and  his  six  wives.  Madame 
Tussaud  is  herself  represented  as  in  sleep,  her  bosom  gently 
heaving  at  intervals,  and  an  old  man  at  the  end  of  the  couch 
looking  on  with  great  attention  through  his  spectacles,  slightly 
moving  his  head,  as  if  in  a  meditative  mood ;  a  woman,  brushing 
by  the  old  man's  coat,  turned  round  to  apologize  !  Here,  too, 
was  a  superb  Mosaic  table  offered  for  sale.  On  its  surface  was 
Napoleon  and  his  twelve  marshals.  Some  of  the  young  folks 
visited  the  Chamber  of  Horrors.  But  we  see.  too  much  of  horror 
in  every-day  life  to  feel  any  great  enjoyment  in  a  retrospect  of 
the  terrible  in  a  vast  aggregate  ;  and  so  let  this  go  by, 

I  ought  to  mention  that  while  we  were  in  London  Mr.  Allen 
left  us  to  take  a  hasty  run  to  Leipsic,  where  he  had  a  son  in  one 
of  the  best  schools  of  that  city.  He  had  not  seen  his  boy  for 
three  or  four  years,  and  parental  affection,  aided  by  rail-cars 
and  steamboats,  carried  him  to  Germany  and  back  in  four  days ; 
and  we  had  the  pleasure  to  welcome  his  son  as  a  new  member  of 
our  party,  at  least  till  our  return  from  Russia  to  Copenhagen, 
when  he  would  return  to  his  studies.  The  presence  of  Mr.  Wil- 
liam V.  Allen  was  not  only  a  great  addition  to  the  happiness  of 
his  parents,  but  was  felt  to  be  a  pleasure  by  all  on  board.  A 
right-minded  youth,  sensible  and  accomplished,  he  was  always 
agreeable,  and  disposed  to  gratify  his  friends  and  acquaintances; 
(3 


64  VISIT    TO    NETLEY    ABBEY. 

and  his  perfect  knowledge  of  the  German  language  often  proved 
useful  to  us  in  many  ways  whilst  we  were  at  the  North. 

On  our  return  to  Southampton,  we  at  once  addressed  ourselves 
to  excursions  to  Netley  Abbey  and  the  Isle  of  Wight.  The 
abbey  is  the  great  lion  of  the  neighborhood:  and,  like  most  of 
the  ecclesiastical  ruins  of  England,  it  remains  a  witness  to  the 
taste  of  its  founders,  who  rarely  neglected  to  select  sites  of 
extraordinary  beauty  for  conventual  purposes.  The  road  is 
short,  but  pleasant.  It  leads  over  a  fine  wooden  bridge,  by  the 
old  Roman  Clausentum.  Noble  residences  and  charming  lodge 
cottages  are  in  sight,  and  fine  views  are  obtained  of  Southampton 
and  its  water.  Before  reaching  the  ruins,  we  passed  the  pretty 
village  of  Weston,  of  which  delightful  spot  Miss  Mitford  has 
written  so  sweetly : 

"  We  might  as  soon  describe  a  dream, 
As  tell  where  falls  each  golden  beam  ; 
As  soon  might  reckon  up  the  sand. 
Sweet  Weston,  on  thy  sea-beat  strand. 

As  count  each  beauty  there. 
Hills  which  the  purple  heath-bell  shield^ 
Forest  and  village,  lawn  and  field. 
Ocean  and  earth,  with  all  they  yield 

Of  glorious  or  of  fair." 

The  Netley  Hotel  is  a  pretty  Elizabethan  erection,  and  from 
this  point  the  first  view  is  obtained  of  the  abbey.  Although 
the  vicinity  of  Southampton  is  not  characterized  by  any  very 
bold  or  romantic  scenery,  having  neither  crag  nor  rocky  moun- 
tains, yet  it  is  full  of  quiet  beauty,  and  has  for  ages  attracted 
the  invader,  pirate  and  merchant.  At  a  very  early  period  it 
captivated  the  religious  of  the  Catholic  Church,  and  here  they 
selected  a  home  for  worship  and  retreat.  Ilomans,  Norwegian 
sea-kings  and  Danes,  all  settled  down  f.t  Southampton  ;  and 
Canute  made  it  his  great  sea-port,  and  the  city  of  Winchester, 
close  by,  was  his  capital'.     A  monastery  was  established  on  the 


HISTORICAL    NOTICE.  65 

west  bank  of  the  Itchen,  one  mile  and  a  half  from  Southampton, 
in  1124,  by  a  body  of  Black  Canons.  At  the  beginning  of  the 
13th  century,  some  Cistercian  monks  came  from  France  and 
settled  in  the  New  Forest,  half-way  between  Calshot  and  Hurst 
Point.  Their  convent  they  called  Beaulieu.  They  erected  a 
superb  abbey,  as  we  may  judge  from  the  few  remaining  relics. 
This  body  sent  forth  a  colony,  who  reared  the  walls  of  Netley 
Abbey, 

The  Cistercians,  to  whom  Netley  Abbey  belonged,  owed  their 
origin  to  the  Abbey  of  Citeaux,  in  Burgundy,  and  the  order  there 
commenced  in  1098.  Its  spread  and  prosperity  may  be  chiefly 
ascribed  to  the  great  energy  of  its  third  abbot,  Stephen  Harding. 
All  Cistercian  abbeys  were  dedicated  to  the  Virgin  Mary.  Henry 
III.  is  sometimes  regarded  as  the  founder  of  Netley,  and  the 
date  ascribed  to  its  erection  is  1239.  At  the  dissolution  of 
monasteries  by  Henry  VIII.,  this  body  consisted  of  the  abbot 
and  twelve  monks. 

The  location  is  on  the  bank  of  Southampton-water,  and  three 
miles  below  the  town,  and  nearly  opposite  the  New  Forest.  It 
was  formerly  surrounded  by  terraces  and  fish-ponds,  and  the 
property  was  enclosed  by  a  moat  and  wall,  parts  of  which  we 
found  remaining.  The  style  of  architecture  was  the  early  Eng- 
lish at  the  period  of  its  change  to  Gothic.  All  the  principal 
arches  are  pointed,  and  the  semi-circular  arch  is  only  used  for 
strength  and  in  small  gateways.  Netley  is  a  fine  specimen  of 
the  early  transition  style,  and  its  leading  feature  was  the  use  of 
the  muUion,  and  slight  tracery  at  the  head  of  the  windows.  The 
abbey  was  built  of  stone  from  Purbeck,  in  Dorsetshire,  and  Caen, 
in  Normandy.  The  dimensions  of  the  abbey  are  two  hundred 
and  eleven  feet  in  length,  fifty -seven  wide,  one  hundred  and  sixty 
at  the  transepts,  and  from  ground  to  the  top  of  the  gables  eighty 
feet.  The  impression  produced  on  entrance  is  one  of  deep  awe 
and  reverence.  The  side  walls  present  a  long  perspective  of 
thick  ivy,  and  the  gray  tops  form  a  noble  contrast  of  color.    On 


66  REV,    DR.    KREBBS. 

the  ground  are  ruins  of  the  groined  roof  and  various  remains  Ox 
the  formed  domestic  apartments  —  for  at  the  dissolution  the  build- 
ing was  secularized.  I  have  no  time  to  describe  the  exquisite 
beauty  of  the  aisles,  the  south  transept,  which  is  in  better  preser- 
vation than  any  other  portion  of  the  edifice ;  nor  can  I  do  more 
than  mention  the  east  aisle  of  this  transept,  which  constitutes  the 
Ladye  Cuapel. 

The  chancel  is  a  spot  where  I  could  linger  long,  and  fancy  the 
solemn  processions  to  the  choir  and  altar  during  the  three  centu- 
ries in  which,  I  doubt  not,  earnest  and  devout  worship  marked  the 
services  of  good  men,  who,  having  sung  the  song  of  the  mass  on 
earth,  are  now  singing  the  song  of  ]Moses  and  the  Lamb  in 
heaven.  I  do  not  believe  that,  in  abjuring  the  errors  of  an 
idolatrous  and  apostate  community,  we  are  justified  in  denying 
that  she  has  had  the  truly  good  and  pious  in  her  communion.  A 
multitude,  I  love  to  think,  have,  in  dark  ages,  made  their  way 
home  to  Zion  with  songs,  and  the  ministrations  of  monks  and 
friars  may  have  been  means  of  grace  and  imparted  hopes  of  glory. 
All  this  I  can  cordially  believe,  whilst  I  regard  the  existence  of 
Popery  as  one  of  the  deadliest  curses  to  the  race,  and  anticipate 
its  overthrow  as  the  loveliest  vision  which  the  fulfilment  of  God's 
promises  to  his  church  is  about  to  unfold,  in  answer  to  the 
prayers  of  the  saints  on  earth  and  the  redeemed  in  heaven. 

The  east  window  was  greatly  admired  by  all  our  party.  Amid 
its  mutilations,  the  great  mullion  and  the  circumference  remain ; 
and,  festooned  as  it  is  with  ivy,  it  fastens  the  eye  of  the  be- 
holder. I  have  never  seen  more  glorious  masses  of  ivy,  nor  as 
many  wall-flowers,  as  at  Netley.  Yet,  I  am  forced  to  say,  that 
this  abbey  will  not  bear  comparison,  for  local  beauty  and  archi- 
tectural grandeur,  with  my  favorite  Tintern. 

As  we  were  making  the  inspection  of  these  venerable  ruins,  a 
largo  party  drove  up  to  the  gateway,  and  we  were  all  of  us  de- 
lighted to  meet  with  our  excellent  friend,  the  Rev.  Dr.  Krebbs, 
of  New  York,  who,  with  his  party,  had  that  morning  landed  at 


REV.    ALEXANDER    MACLAREN.  67 

Portsmouth  from  a  packet-ship ;  and,  with  true  American  go- 
ahead  energy,  here  they  were,  the  same  day,  sight-seeing ;  having 
taken  the  rail  to  Southampton,  and  commenced  doing  up  England 
by  a  visit  to  Netley.  Dr.  Krebbs  was  in  the  pursuit  of  health; 
and  it  was  a  very  pleasant  thing  for  him  to-  meet  in  the  abbey 
with  his  own  family  doctor,  "  the  beloved  physician,"  Dr.  Linsly. 
Here  I  may  observe  that  our  good  doctor  met  in  London  with 
several  of  his  patients,  and  rarely  have  I  seen  more  cordial 
greetings  than  were  exchanged.  A  warmer  heart,  full  of  sym- 
pathy for  all  the  sorrows  of  the  afflicted,  never  beat  in  human 
breast  than  in  this  excellent  man,  who,  I  imagine,  must  have 
been  sadly  missed  by  his  numerous  friends. 

Several  of  our  friends  made  an  excursion  to  the  Isle  of  Wight, 
visiting  Cowes,  Ryde,  and  Osborne  House,  the  marine  villa  of 
Queen  Victoria. 

Others  of  us  spent  the  day  at  Southampton,  attending  divine 
service.  When  in  London,  I  had  been  strongly  advised  to  hear 
the  Rev.  Alexander  Maclaren,  who  was  spoken  of  as  an  excel- 
lent preacher.  I  therefore  determined  to  attend  his  meeting- 
house in  the  morning.  It  is  known  as  Portland  Chapel,  and  is  a 
small  and  plain  building,  and  very  unlike  what  a  Baptist  church 
would  be  in  such  a  town  in  America.  The  congregation  was 
plain,  and  the  house  not  quite  full.  Mr.  Maclaren  took  his  text 
from  the  25th  Psalm,  14th  verse :  "  The  secret  of  the  Lord  is 
with  them  that  fear  him,"  &c.  I  hardly  know  how  to  express 
my  admiration  of  this  discourse,  or  of  the  manner  in  which  the 
entire  service  was  conducted.  I  have  heard  Hall,  and  Chalmers, 
and  Jay,  Hamilton,  Cummings,  Noel,  aad  other  great  preachei's 
in  England;  but  I  do  not  remember  that  I  ever  listened  to  a 
more  impressive  sermon.  Mr.  Maclaren  is  a  Scotchman,  of  pre- 
possessing appearance,  and  his  manners  in  the  pulpit  are  natural 
and  dignified.  I  have  certainly  heard  nothing  in  England  that 
is  at  all  equal  to  this  gentleman's  oratory ;  and  then,  aside  from 
the  attraction  of  manner,  the  reasoning  was  close  and  the  per- 
6* 


68  SERVICES  OF  Tiir:  sabbath. 

oration  as  pathetic  and  earnest  as  I  can  imagine  to  be  possible. 
Dr.  Krcbbs  fully  coincided  in  nij  estimate  of  the  service. 

After  service,  I  was  invited  to  ofl&ciate  in  the  evening ;  but  I 
felt  too  desirous  to  enjoy  another  gratification  in  listening  to 
such  instructions.  The  members  of  our  party,,  too,  were  very 
anxious  to  attend  again  upon  the  service ;  and,  with  quite  an 
addition  to  our  number,  we  were  among  the  evening  worshippers. 
I  now  found  the  chapel  crowded,  and  it  was  with  much  difficulty 
that  we  were  scattered  round.  The  congregation,  too,  was  of  a 
very  superior  class  of  hearers  to  that  I  had  seen  in  the  morning ; 
and  I  felt  sure  that  there  were  representatives  from  various  con- 
gregations in  the  town.  An  American,  who  has  never  been  in 
England,  cannot  understand  the  light  in  which  Congregation- 
alists,  Presbyterians,  Baptists  and  Methodists,  are  regarded  by 
the  established  church  and  its  adherents.  Talents,  social  worth, 
even  wealth,  seem  to  be  regarded  as  nothing  unless  they  are 
placed  upon  the  altar  of  uniformity.  The  sermon  of  the  evening 
was  founded  upon  Psalms  8:  5,  —  "Lord,  what  is  man,"  &c. 
The  audience  seemed  to  me  held  in  a  state  of  almost  breathless 
silence  and  attention.  The  hold  of  the  preacher  on  his  hearers 
appeared  to  be  like  that  of  a  prophet  who  had  brought  a  mes- 
sage from  "  the  Holy  One."  The  imagery  was  grand,  and  was 
in  the  lips  of  a  master  in  Israel ;  and  we  all  felt  the  force  of 
the  preacher's  subject,  —  The  Dignity  of  Man.  But,  when  he 
described  man's  apostasy  and  ruin,  no  one  could  fail  to  ex- 
perience the  emotions  of  Job,  who  exclaimed,  "  I  abhor  myself 
in  dust  and  ashes."  We  all  of  us  retired  from  that  humble 
sanctuary  expressing  the  earnest  wish  that  such  a  preacher 
might  have  a  more  fitting  sphere  for  labor.  And  yet  I  know  not 
that  this  is  right.  In  the  great  gathering-day,  I  doubt  whether 
any  preacher  of  the  gospel  will  feel  that  in  this  world  his  field 
of  occupation  was  too  limited  ;  while  thousands  will  lament  the 
extent  of  their  responsibility,  and  will  mourn  over  their  omis- 
sions and  short-comings  in  duty. 


CHAPTER  VI. 

JUNE   13,    THE     BANQUET   AT   SOUTHAMPTON CARD    OF     INVITATION AP- 
PEARANCE OF  TOWN VICTORIA   ROOMS MAYOR DINNER ACCOUNT 

OF    PROCEEDINGS     AND     SPEECHES    IN     THE     HAMPSHIRE    INDEPENDENT  — 
KXCUKSION      OF     THE     NORTH   STAR,    WITH     THE     MAYOR     AND     INVITED 

GUESTS,    ROUND     THE    ISLE     OF    WIGHT DINNER    ON     BOARD ACCOUNT 

TAKEN    FROM   THE   HAMPSHIRE   INDEPENDENT. 

I  STATED,  in  my  notice  of  our  days  in  London,  that  a  deputa- 
tion from  Southampton  had  proflfered  Mr.  Vanderbilt  an  invi- 
tation to  an  entertainment  given  by  the  citizens,  and  that  the 
honor  was  accepted.  On  our  arrival  at  Southampton,  we  found 
the  streets  placarded  with  notices  of  a  public  entertainment  at 
the  Victoria  Rooms ;  and  a  very  superbly-engraved  card,  in  gilt 
letters,  with  a  fine  likeness  of  the  North  Star  in  the  centre, 
surrounded  by  gilt  flags  and  the  arms  of  Southampton,  was  ad- 
dressed to  each  member  of  the  party.  As  a  memorial  of  the 
voyage,  I  annes  the  card  of  invitation  which  I  received  on  the 
occasion : 

THE  MAYOR, 
MERCHANTS  AND  TRADERS  OF  SOUTHAMPTON, 

Request  the  pleasure  of  the  Rev.  Dk.  and  Mrs.  Choules'  company  at  a 

Dejeuner,  on  Monday,  13  June,  1853,  at  the  Royal  Victoria 

Assembly  Rooms,  in  honor  of  the  visit  of 

COMMODORE   VANDERBILT, 

In  his  splendid  Steam  Yacht  North  Star. 
At  3  o'clock. 

Monday,  the  13  th  of  June,  was  a  most  delightful  day ;  and 
when  we  came  on  deck  we  found  the  flags  of  the  shipping  in 


70  VICTORIA    ROOMS  —  RECEPTION. 

dock  all  gayly  waving  to  the  breeze,  and  noticed  banners  from 
the  hotels  and  public  buildings,  while  the  church-bells  were  ring- 
ing merry  peals  of  cheer  and  gladness.  Everything  denoted 
mirth  and  holiday,  and  our  feelings  were  somewhat  peculiar  when 
we  felt  that  all  this  was  a  matter  in  which  we  were  personally 
concerned,  and  was  intended  for  the  honor  of  our  ship,  her 
owner,  and  our  country. 

At  two  o'clock  p.  u.,  carriages  were  on  the  dock,  which  had 
been  most  politely  seat  by  the  committee  of  arrangements,  to 
convey  the  party  to  the  Royal  Victoria  Rooms,  the  scene  of 
civic  hospitality.  The  streets  were  full  of  spectators,  and  bells 
were  pealing  out  sweet  melody,  as  English  parish  bells  alone  can 
do  it.  On  arriving  at  the  Rooms,  we  were  courteously  received 
by  the  gentlemen  in  waiting,  and  were  escorted  through  a  fairy 
scene  of  winding  stairs,  all  covered  with  evergreens  and  flags, 
into  the  saloon  of  reception,  where  we  were  presented  to  Mr. 
Laukester,  the  Mayor,  who  wore  his  gold  chain  of  oflice,  and  by 
him  were  introduced  to  the  Lady  Mayoress,  and  a  large  number 
of  ladies  and  gentlemen.  The  room  was  spacious,  and  opened 
upon  a  terrace  affording  a  charming  view  of  the  water;  and  I 
noticed  several  venerable  trees,  and  some  small  pieces  of  artillery, 
which  were  more  for  adornment  than  use  ;  a  pretty  fountain  ofi" 
to  the  left  was  an  ornament  to  the  terrace. 

At  three  o'clock  the  Mayor  announced  that  dinner  was  ready, 
and  led  Mrs.  Vanderbilt  to  the  room,  followed  by  Mr.  Vander- 
bilt  and  the  Lady  Mayoress,  and  the  rest  of  the  company.  The 
scene  that  opened  upon  our  view  was  exceedingly  striking,  and 
we  all  thought  that  we  had  never  beheld  a  dining-room  so  elegantly 
decorated.  The  flags  of  England  and  the  United  States  were 
beautifully  entwined,  and  the  entire  arrangements  of  the  room 
were  as  elegant  as  possible.  The  tables  were  superbly  arranged, 
and  presented  a  fine  display  of  plate,  whilst  the  entertainment 
itself  was  of  the  richest  character.     The  presence  of  nearly  a 


THE    BANQUET.  71 

hundred  ladies  gave  a  charm  to  the  occasion,  and  afforded  ua 
additional  pleasure. 

I  think  I  cannot  do  better  than  insert  in  this  place  the  account 
of  the  banquet  as  recorded  in  the  Hampshire  Independent  of 
Saturday,  June  18,  —  a  very  excellent  liberal  paper,  edited  by 
my  valued  and  eloquent  friend,  Mr.  Falvey.  I  regard  the 
description  as  very  truthful  and  graphic. 

It  may  not  be  inappropriate  here  to  remark,  that  whilst  Mr. 
Vanderbilt  has  long  been  known  to  his  fellow-countrymen  by  the 
title  of  Commodore  Vanderbilt, —  a  compliment  paid  him  as  the 
veteran  head  of  the  steam  navigation  of  the  northern  states, — 
yet  Im  on  no  occasion  used  the  appellation,  or  wished  it  employed. 
I  allude  to  this,  because  the  common  use  of  the  title  in  this  nar- 
rative of  the  English  press  prevents  my  altering  the  phraseology. 
If  anything,  during  the  whole  excursion  to  Europe,  impressed 
me  strongly  as  it  regarded  Mr.  Vanderbilt's  deportment,  it  was 
his  uniform  modest  and  dignified  reserve,  and  avoidance  of  all 
pretence  to  ostentatious  show  and  public  notice.  Often  did  he 
decline  attentions  which  were  pressed  upon  him  at  various  points 
of  our  progress,  and  very  frequently  to  the  great  disappointment 
of  those  who  greatly  wished  to  do  him  honor,  and  show  their 
regard  for  his  country. 


"THE   AMERICAN    STEAM    TACHT     NORTH     STAR. PUBLIC    BANQUET 

TO   COMMODORE    VANDERBILT. 

"  The  banquet  to  Commodore  Vanderbilt,  by  the  merchants  and 
traders  of  Southampton,  in  acknowledgment  of  the  compliment 
paid  to  this  port  as  the  high  road  between  England  and  New 
York,  in  selecting  it  for  his  visit,  and  of  the  great  courtesy  shown 
to  the  public  by  throwing  open  his  splendid  yacht  for  general  in- 
spection, came  off  at  the  Victoria  Rooms  on  Monday,  with  an 
idat  which  has  never  been  surpassed  by  any  previous  entertain- 
ment of  the  kind  that  has  taken  place  in  this  town.     Of  all  the 


72  DECORATION  OF  THE  SALOONS. 

fraternal  gatherings  which  have,  of  late  years,  characterized  our 
port,  none  have  gone  beyond  this  one,  either  in  point  of  interest, 
or  the  excellent  and  satisfactory  manner  in  which  the  whole  of 
the  arrangements  were  carried  out.  The  banquet  took  place  at 
the  Victoria  Rooms,  and,  notwithstanding  the  short  time  neces- 
sarily allowed  for  preparation,  about  two  hundred  persons, 
inclusive  of  the  distinguished  party  of  American  guests,  assem- 
bled on  the  occasion. 

•"  The  decoration  of  the  room  was  assigned  to  Mr.  Triggs,  and 
most  ably  did  he  perform  his  task.  Flags  of  all  nations,  in  which 
the  English  and  American  colors,  of  course,  were  prominently 
displayed,  hung  round  the  room,  which,  added  to  the  excellent 
effect  produced  by  the  peculiar  ornamentation  of  the  orchestra, 
and  the  graceful  intermingling  of  wreaths  and  bouquets  of  flowers, 
a  large  floral  star  being  suspended  from  the  centre  of  the  ceiling, 
rendered  the  appearance  of  the  room,  as  soon  as  the  doors  were 
thrown  open  to  the  company,  that  of  a  large  fairy  bower.  In- 
deed, we  never  saw  the  Victoria  Kooms  so  beautifully  dec  )rated 
on  any  previous  occasion.  A  handsome  collection  of  green  and 
hot-house  plants  and  flowering  shrubs  was  gratuitously  sup- 
plied by  Mr.  William  Rogers,  sen.,  from  his  old-established 
nursery  at  Red  Lodge  and  his  floricultural  establishment  in  the 
High-street,  which  were  arranged  by  Mr.  Sawyer,  and  had  a 
most  agreeable  effect  in  connection  with  the  other  decorations  of 
the  room. 

"  The  lower  room  was  set  apart  as  a  reception  room,  wherein 
the  guests  and  visitors  generally  were  received,  on  their  arrival, 
by  the  Mayor  and  Mayoress  ;  and  we  need  hardly  say  that  Com- 
modore Vanderbilt  and  his  family  received  a  hearty  welcome  on 
their  arrival.  The  day  being  beautifully  fine,  the  company  prom- 
enaded the  grounds  till  the  banquet  was  announced  to  be  ready, 
which,  together  with  a  suspension  of  lines  of  flags  between  the 
trees  and  the  balconies,  and  the  performances  of  a  capital  brass 
band  which  was  stationed  on  the  green,  drew  crowds  of  specta- 


THE    COMPANY    PRESENT.  73 

tors  along  the  western  shore  road,  which  runs  in  front  of  the 
grounds,  by  whom  the  gay  and  exhilarating  scene  appeared  to  be 
much  enjoyed.  In  the  banqueting-room  a  full  and  highly  effi- 
cient quadrille  band,  under  the  direction  of  Mr.  F.  Targett, 
occupied  the  orchestra  ;  and  a  party  of  vocalists  from  London, 
consisting  of  Mr.  Ransford,  Mr.  Ransford,  jun.,  and  Miss  Rans- 
ford,  lent  their  powerful  aid  to  the  general  harmony  of  the  festive 
gathering. 

"The  Mayor  of  the  borough  (J.  Lankester,  Esq.)  presided  with 
great  ability,  supported,  right  and  left,  by  the  American  guests, 
who  comprised  Commodore  Vanderbilt  and  lady,  D.  B.  Allen, 
Esq.,  and  lady,  Gr.  A.  Osgood,  Esq.,  and  lady,  W.  K.  Thorne, 
Esq.,  and  lady,  Horace  Clark,  Esq.,  and  lady,  Dr.  Linsly  and 
lady,  N.  B.  Labau,  Esq.,  and  lady,  D.  Torrence,  Esq.,  and  lady, 
W.  H.  Vanderbilt,  Esq.,  Jun.,  and  lady.  Master  Gr.  W.  Vander- 
bilt, Miss  Vanderbilt,  Miss  Thorne,  Mr.  W.  Allen,  Capt.  A. 
Eldridge  and  lady,  Rev.  Dr.  Choules  and  lady,  and  Mrs  Cross. 
Amongst  those  present  we  also  noticed  Mr.  Deputy  Bennoch 
(from  London),  the  Mayoress,  Mr.  Alderman  Andrews  and  lady, 
Mrs.  Croskey,  the  Rev.  J.  W.  Wyld,  Mr.  Alderman  Palk  and 
lady,  Mr.  Alderman  Allen,  Mr.  Alderman  Tucker,  Mr.  Alderman 
Bienvenu,  Mr.  Sheriff  Aldridge ;  Councillors  Blatch,  Graham, 
Copeland,  Scovell,  Borrett,  Degee,  Buchan,  Davies,  Brinton; 
Capt.  Peacock,  Mr.,  Mrs.  and  Miss  Mayes,  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Pegler, 
Mr.  and  Mrs.  H.  J.  Buchan,  Mr.  Falvey,  Mr.  and  Mrs.  T.  P. 
Payne,  Mr.  "W.  Lankester,  the  Messrs.  Sharps,  Mr.  and  Miss 
Randal,  Miss  Sharp,  and  many  other  of  the  leading  tradesmen 
of  the  town  and  their  ladies. 

"  The  following  letters  were  received  in  reply  to  invitations  to 
attend  the  banquet : 

"  '  Legation  of  the  United  States,  London,  11th  June,  1853. 
" '  My  Dear  Sir  :    I  have  just  received  the  very  kind  invitation 
of  the  Mayor  and  Stewards,  so  obligingly  forwarded  by  you,  to 


74  LETTERS    OF  APOLOGY. 

be  present  at  a  dejeuner  to  be  given  by  the  Mayor,  merchants, 
and  traders  of  Southampton,  to  Commodore  Vanderbilt  and 
family,  on  Monday  next. 

"  '  I  regret  exceedingly  that  an  important  engagement,  made 
many  days  since,  for  Monday,  must  deprive  me  of  the  honor  of 
being  present  on  this  interesting  occasion;  and  I  regret  this  the 
more,  as  H.  E.  Mr.  Ingersoll  being  also  engaged,  the  American 
Legation  must  be  unrepresented. 

"  '  Having  been  the  recipient,  on  more  than  one  occasion,  of 
the  hospitality  of  your  excellent  Mayor  and  Corporation,  I  can 
readily  anticipate  how  much  enjoyment  your  guests  will  receive 
on  this  occasion. 

'"I  beg  you  to  present  my  respects  to  his  worship  the  Mayor, 
and  accept  for  yourself  the  sentiments  of  kind  regard  with  which 
"  '  I  have  the  honor  to  be,  dear  sir, 

"  '  Your  obliged  and  obedient  servant, 

"  '  T.  B.  Lawrence, 

"  '  Charles  E.  Deacon,  Esq.' 

"  '  45  Portland-place,  London,  June  Wth,  1853. 
"  '  Mr.  Ingersoll  has  the  honor  to  acknowledge  the  receipt  of  the 
kind  invitation  of  the  Mayor,  merchants  and  traders  of  South- 
ampton, to  a  dejeuner,  on  Monday,  the  13th  of  June,  to  receive 
Commodore  Vanderbilt  and  family  ;  and  he  particularly  laments 
that  engagements,  previously  formed,  will  prevent  him  from  hav- 
ing the  pleasure  of  joining  the  agreeable  and  distinguished 
party.' 

"  '  London,  June  Wth,  1858. 
"  '  Mr.  Peabody  sincerely  regrets  that  having  invited  a  large 
party  to  dinner  at  Blackwall  on  Monday,  the  13th  he  will  be 
deprived  of  the  pleasure  of  waiting  on  the  Mayor,  merchants, 
and  traders  of  Southampton  on  that  day,  according  to  their  kind 
invitation.' 


LETTERS    OF   APOLOGY.  75 

"  '  June  ISth,  1853. 
"  'My  Dkar  Sir:  May  I  request  you  to  communicate  to  Mr. 
Mayor,  and  the  other  gentlemen  who  have  done  me  the  honor  to 
invite  me  to  the  fete  to  be  given  in  honor  of  your  American 
guests,  my  great  regret  that  pressing  and  important  business  pre- 
vents the  possibility  of  my  attending. 

"  .'  I  am,  faithfully  yours, 

"  '  A.  E.  COCKBURN. 

'"C.  E.  Deacon,  Esq.' 

"  '  23  Portman-square,  London,  11th  June,  1853. 

"  '  My  Dear  Sir:  I  very  much  regret  that  it  will  be  quite  out 
of  my  power  to  avail  myself  of  the  invitation  with  which  your 
Mayor  has  honored  me  for  Monday  next,  to  welcome  Commodore 
Vanderbilt  and  family.  I  shall  be  in  Committee  all  day,  and  in 
the  evening  have  to  watch  a  motion  in  connection  with  a  railway 
company  affecting  the  interests  of  my  constituents. 

*' '  I  shall  feel  obliged  to  3'our  worthy  Mayor  if  he  will  kindly 
say  as  much  on  my  part  to  the  commodore,  and  assure  him  that 
I  really  feel  vexed  that  I  cannot  be  present  to  welcome  so  dis- 
tinguished a  fellow-laborer  in  steam  navigation,  but  that  I  still 
hope  the  opportunity  may  occur  before  he  leaves  Europe. 

"  '  Very  truly  yours, 

"  '  B.  M.  \yiLLC0X. 

"  '  C.  E.  Deacon,  Esq.' 

"  '  Mansion  House,  June  11th,  1853. 
"  '  Mr.  Mayor  :  I  am  requested  by  the  Lord  Mayor  to  say 
that  he  fears  his  engagements  will  render  it  impossible  for  him  to 
comply  with  your  kind  invitation  ;  but  that,  if  it  should  be  possi- 
ble for  him  to  leave  town  at  the  time,  it  will  afford  him  great 
pleasure  to  do  so. 

"  '  I  am,  sir,  your  very  obedient  servant, 

"  '  C.  R.  Edmonds. 
"  '  The  Mayor  of  Soothampton.' 
7 


76  DINNER  —  TC  ^STS. 

"'61   Cornhill,  Uih  June,  1853. 
" '  Mr.  Sheriff  and  Alderman  Carter  present;  his  compliments, 
and  hopes  the  pleasure  of  meeting  the  Mayoi  of  Southampton 
on  Monday  next,  the  13th  inst. 
"-  M  '  Charles  E.  Deacon,  Esq.,  &c.  &c.  &c.' 

"  The  dejeu7ier  and  dessert  was  served  by  Mr.  Gibbs,  ■whose 
catering  gave  much  satisfaction  to  the  company.  The  vrines 
were  of  first-rate  quality,  the  champagne  and  hock  being  sup- 
plied by  Mr.  F.  Perkins,  and  the  remainder  of  the  wines  by 
Messrs.  Maber  and  Parker.  Indeed,  every  department  was  done 
full  justice  to  by  the  gentlemen  to  whom  they  were  respectively 
assigaed. 

"  Grace  before  meat  was  offered  by  the  Rev.  J.  W.  Wyld,  and 
at  the  close  the  gi-ace,  '  For  these  and  all  thy  mercies '  was 
chanted  by  the  Messrs.  Ransford  in  beautiful  style. 

"  The  first  toast  given  by  the  chairman  was  the  health  of  the 
Queen,  which  was  drank  most  enthusiastically,  and  followed  by 
the  band  playing  the  National  Anthem,  the  air  of  which  was 
beautifully  sung  by  Miss  Hansford,  the  whole  company  standing 
and  joining  in  the  chorus. 

"  The  chairman  next  gave  the  health  of  Prince  Albert  —  the 
beloved  consort  of  Her  Majesty,  the  patron  of  the  arts  and 
sciences,  and  the  warm  advocate  of  the  comfort  and  happiness  of 
the  whole  community.     Di-ank  with  loud  applause. 

"  Glee  —  '  Where  art  thou,  beam  of  light ! ' 

"  The  chairman,  in  proposing  the  next  toast,  said  that,  in  the  ex- 
ercise of  their  undoubted  prerogative,  the  American  nation  had 
chosen  a  form  of  government  different  from  our  own,  which  had 
worked  in  an  unparalleled  degree,  in  the  history  of  the  world, 
for  the  welfare  of  that  country.  (Hear,  hear.)  They  had  estab- 
lished a  republic,  instead  of  a  monarchy,  with  a  president  chosen 
every  four  years ;  and  under  her  successive  presidents  they  had 
advanced  to  that  state  of  unexampled  prosperity  which  they  now 


SPEECH    OF  MR.    ALDERMAN   LAISHLEY.  77 

enjoy.  (Hear,  and  cheers.)  They  had  selected  men  of  wisdom 
and  talent,  equal  to  the  exigencies  of  the  times,  to  fill  that  high 
and  honorable  office ;  and  he  gave  them,  with  much  pleasure, 
the  health  of  '  The  present  President  of  the  United  States  of 
America,' 

"  This  toast  was  received  with  loud  and  long-continued  cheering, 
and  the  whole  company  rose  and  stood  during  the  performance 
by  the  band  of  '  Hail  Columbia  ; '  —  a  mark  of  respect  to  the 
ruling  head  of  the  American  nation  with  which  Commodore  Van- 
derbilt  and  his  friends  were  much  pleased. 

"  Mr.  Alderman  Laishley  rose  to  propose  the  next  toast.  He 
said  he  most  sincerely  and  heartily  congratulated  the  Mayor  on 
his  being  honored  with  an  opportunity,  during  his  tenure  of  office, 
of  entertaining  as  his  guest  so  distinguished  and  worthy  a  repre- 
sentative of  the  American  people.  He  rejoiced  that  these  occa- 
sions of  mutual  good  feeling  and  fellowship  arose,  from  time  to 
time.  The  people  of  Southampton  had  not  forgotten,  nor  would 
they  soon  forget,  when,  for  the  first  time  in  the  history  of  their 
ancient  town,  there  floated  on  our  waters  that  noble  specimen  of 
the  naval  force  of  the  United  States,  the  St.  Lawrence,  in  1848, 
commanded  by  one  of  her  most  gallant  sons,  whose  dignified 
bearing,  whose  courtesy  and  kindness,  as  well  as  that  of  the  offi- 
cers under  his  command,  and  the  orderly  conduct  of  the  crew, 
made  an  impression,  not  only  on  the  corporation,  but  also  on  the 
inhabitants  of  the  town  at  large,  which  neither  time  nor  distance 
would  be  able  to  efi'ace.  (Loud  cheers.)  And  then  there  was  the 
recollection  of  the  second  visit  of  that  noble  ship  to  our  port  on 
her  mission  of  peace,  bearing  the  contributions  of  that  enterpris- 
ing people  to  the  World's  Exhibition.  True,  compared  with  the 
show  and  the  tinsel  of  some  of  those  exhibited  by  the  old  states 
of  Europe,  they  were  apparently  modest  and  unpretending,  and 
at  first  rather  excited  a  smile  that  they  should  have  travelled  so 
far  only  to  go  back  again ;  but,  as  day  succeeded  day,  and  weeks 
and  months  elapsed,  they  excited  the   attention  of  the  practical 


78  SPEECH. 

and  philanthropic,  the  ingenious  and  inventive, —  and  what  was  the 
result  ?  "Why,  that  amidst  that  world  of  competitors  they  carried 
off  some  of  the  highest  prizes,  and  the  most  distinguished  honors. 
And,  for  this  most  obvious  reason,  that,  while  much  that  was 
glittering  and  dazzling  was  well  adapted  for  the  few,  those  were 
the  very  things  which  were  everywhere  wanting  to  promote  and 
increase  the  comfort  and  well-being  of  the  many.  (Much  cheer- 
ing.) Nor  could  they  allow  such  an  occasion  as  that  to  pass  by 
without  a  renewed  expression  of  their  admiration  of  the  gallant 
commander  of  that  ship  —  on  that  occasion  Captain  Sands  — 
and  the  distinguished  officers  under  his  command ;  long  might 
they  live  in  the  enjoyment  of  every  good,  an  honor  to  their  coun- 
try, and  a  blessing  to  the  world !  For  the  visits  of  that  noble 
vessel  to  this  port  they  were  indebted  to  the  exertions  and  good 
opinion  of  a  gentleman  whom  they  all  highly  esteemed,  and  whose 
absence  that  evening  was  deeply  regretted  ;  he  meant  Mr.  Cros- 
key,  the  United  States  consul,  who  had  so  long  and  so  honorably 
represented  that  government  at  this  port.  (Applause.)  And,  now 
they  were  most  unexpectedly  and  happily  favored  by  the  visit  of 
one  of  the  most  enterprising,  successful,  generous,  and  large- 
hearted  men  of  that  extraordinary  people, —  one  who,  having,  as 
he  was  informed,  embarked  a  large  amount  both  of  capital  and 
skill  in  the  vastly-growing  commercial  interests  of  his  country, 
had  lived  to  see  his  public  spirit,  his  gigantic  intellect,  his  scien- 
tific attainments,  rewarded  with  a  success  rarely,  if  ever,  sur- 
passed in  that  or  in  any  other  country.  (Cheers.)  The  people  of 
Southampton  might  indeed  well  be  proud  of  the  distinction  thus 
conferred  upon  thena.  He  (Mr.  Laishley)  could  well  imagine  how 
intense  the  interest  felt  by  the  gallant  commodore  and  his  amiable 
family,  as  they  rounded  the  old  Castle  of  Calshot,  to  find  themselves 
steaming  up  that  very  river  in  a  yacht,  the  magnificence  of  which 
was  perhaps  unequalled  in  the  world,  down  which,  in  1620,  the  Pil- 
grim Fathers,  their  honored  ancestors,  started  in  their  frail  bark 
of  one  hundred  and  eighty  tons  burden,  for  their  distant  and  un- 


SPEECH.  79 

knoAvn  destination.  (Hear,  hear.)  Talk  about  warriors  and 
■diplomatists;  these  were  the  men,  wherever  they  were  found,  who 
were  noblj^  and  successfully  contributing  to  make  the  world  one 
country  and  man  one  family  (loud  cheers), —  men,  upon  whom 
Providence  having  smiled,  had  not  only  the  power  to  get  wealth, 
but  the  heart  to  diffuse  it.  It  was  by  colossal  intellects  such  as 
these  that  the  pathway  of  the  great  deep  was  rendered  not  only 
safe  and  easy,  but  attractive  and  inviting  too ;  and  that,  not  only 
to  the  hardy  sons  of  tt«i  soil,  the  muscle  and  sinew  of  the  human 
race,  but  to  the  gcKtleman,  the  scholar,  the  man  of  literature  and- 
science  —  nay.  io  ladies,  too,  of  education  and  station,  and  even 
of  these  some  of  the  most  fragile,  and  sensitive,  and  delicate,  as 
they  saw  that  evening,  inducing  them,  without  hesitation  or  ap- 
prebension,  to  visit  lands  the  most  distant,  and  people  often  the 
furthest  removed  from  all  their  habits. 

*'  Bad  sailor  as  he  was,  a  look  at  that  magnificent  vessel,  so 
snugly  berthed  within  their  docks,  would  almost  lead  him  to 
imagine  that  a  voyage  in  her,  at  any  time,  and  to  any  part  of 
the  world,  would  be  nothing  else  than  an  occasion  of  pleasure,  a 
very  holiday  festivity,  on  the  spacious  deck  of  which  the  voyager 
might  breathe  the  pure  air  as  freely,  and,  no  doubt,  often  as 
plentifully,  too,  as  he  pleased,  or  unite  with  his  fellow-travellers 
/a  recreation  and  amusement  —  by  day  beholding  the  wonders  of 
the  deep,  and  by  night  admiring  the  garniture  of  the  heavens. 
(Applause.)  In  the  superb  saloon  —  a  compartment  which  would 
not  discredit  the  palace  of  Britain's  queen — he  might  converse 
with  authors  of  every  age,  and  partake  of  the  luxuries  of  every 
clime,  assured,  whether  engaged  in  the  one  or  the  other,  that, 
under  the  direction  of  the  gallant  commodore,  his  officers  and 
crew,  he  was  being  safely  wafted  to  his  desired  haven.  It  was 
only  to  gaze  for  a  moment  or  two  upon  that  noble  specimen  of 
marine  architecture,  to  see,  and  to  feel,  too,  that,  as  to  the  age 
in  which  they  lived,  it  was,  as  to  the  discoveries  of  science  and 

the  inventions  of  art,  the  product,  the  flower,  the  cream,  of  all 

7# 


80  SPEECH. 

the  ages  past  and  gone.     '  Nobody,'  gaid  the  illustrious  Prince 
Albert,  some  time  since, 'can  doubt  for  a  moment  that  we  are 
living  at  a  period  of  wonderful  transition,  tending  to  that  great 
end  to  which  all  history  points  —  the  realization  of  the  unity  of 
the  human  race.'     Why,  all  that  was  wanting  was,  that  men  of 
all  nations  and  kindreds  should  thus  meet  together,  see  each 
other,  and  talk  together,  to  know,  und  to  feel,  too,  that  they  were 
children  of  the  same  common  Father  — a  world  of  brothers,  in- 
tended to  be  drawn  together  by  mutual  interests  and  sympathies, 
instead  of  being  divided  and  dissevered  by  mutual  jealousies  and 
antipathies.    (Loud  and  prolonged  cheering.)   Who  could  estimate 
the  effect  which  in  a  few  years  must  be  produced  on  the  intel- 
lectual, the  moral,  the  religious  and  the  social  conditio^  of  the 
world,  by  the  rapidly  increasing  intercourse  of  the  sons  of  inan  ? 
By  these  means  it  would  be  that  both  the  geographical  and  po- 
litical barriers  which  from  age  to  age  had  separated  nation  from 
nation  —  barriers  which  had  rendered  them,  not  only  strangers, 
but  enemies  to  each  other  —  were  being  daily  broken  down  and 
demolished.     National   prejudices  and   antipathies  were  every- 
where giving  way,  as  opposed  alike  to  the  best  interests  of  man, 
and  to  all  the  institutions  of  the  Almighty.     How  terse  and  how 
truthful  were  the  remarks  of  one  of  the  earlier  Presidents  of  the 
American  Union  —  he  believed  it  was  Mr.  Jefferson  :  —  '  We, 
the  Americans,'  he  said,  '  ought,  above  all  things,  to  cultivate 
the  most  friendly  alliance  and  brotherhood  with  Great  Britain, 
because  she  can  do  us  more  harm  than  any  other  nation  ;  and 
she  ought,  above  all  things,  to  cultivate  the  same  friendly  feeling 
towards  us,  because  we  can  do  her  more  good  than  any  other 
people.'      Hence,  how  important    that,  in  accordance  with  the 
toast  he  had  the  honor  to  propose,  all  the  deliberations  of  her 
Majesty's  ministers  and  the  statesmen  of  England  and  America 
should  tend  to  promote  the  welfare  of  mankind  and  the  civiliza- 
tion of  the  world  !     But  these  gratifying  reunions,  these  friendly 
greetings,  this  social,  happy  intercourse,  of  the  people  of  differ- 


SPEECH    OF   HIS    HONOR   THE    MAYOR.  81 

ent  and  distant  nations,  would  tend  far  more  to  cement  and  ren- 
der permanent  and  enduring  the  bonds  of  universal  brotherhood, 
than  all  the  diplomacy  of  the  one  country  or  the  other,  (liear, 
hear.)  The  toast  he  had  to  propose  for  their  acceptance  was  — 
'  Her  Majesty's  Ministers,  and  the  Statesmen  of  England  and 
America  :  May  all  their  deliberations  tend  to  promote  the  wel- 
fare of  mankind,  and  the  civilization  of  the  world.' 

"  '  Rode's  Air,'  with  variations,  was  then  sung  by  Miss  Kans- 
ford,  and  loudly  applauded. 

"  The  Mayor  said  he  now  came  to  tlie  toast  of  the  day  (ap- 
plause), and,  as  usual,  Mr.  Laishley  had  so  taken  the  wind  out 
of  his  sails  that  he  had  left  him  little  to  say.  But  he  remem- 
bered that  he  had  at  that  moment  sitting  at  his  right  hand  one  of 
the  merchant  princes  of  America  (hear,  hear),  —  a  gentleman 
who  owed  his  position  entirely  to  his  own  industiy,  perseverance, 
and  extensive  knowledge  of  mankind.  He  had  ever  been  an 
enemy  to  all  monopoly,  and  that  was  the  foundation  of  his  great 
success.  (Applause.)  His  aim  had  always  been  to  abolish  all  mo- 
nopolies, and  so  he  had  created  the  important  position  which  he 
now  occupied  in  America.  And,  then,  look  at  his  family  !  (Loud 
cheers.)  He  was  not,  like  many  of  our  anchorites,  contented 
with  amassing  a  large  sum  of  money,  but  he  had  brought  up  a 
large  and  interesting  family.  (Hear,  and  cheers.)  Commodore 
Vanderbilt  was  the  largest  steamboat  proprietor  in  the  United 
States ;  and  now,  as  a  sort  of  frame  to  the  picture,  he  had 
brought  his  splendid  steam  yacht  into  the  Southampton  waters, 
to  show  them  what  the  Americans  could  do  in  the  art  of  steam-ship 
building.  (Loud  applause.)  He  (the  Mayor)  was  not  going,  on 
that  occasion,  to  talk  about  the  port  of  Southampton,  but  he  could 
not  help  thinking  that  the  commodore  had  shown  singular  good 
sense  in  bringing  his  yacht  to  this  port.  (Laughter  and  cheers.) 
The  position  of  Commodore  Vanderbilt  in  America  was  equal  to 
that  of  any  of  the  ducal  houses  in  Great  Britain.  (Hear,  hear.) 
He  was  the  proprietor  of  large  building  establishments,  and  em- 


82  MR.  vanderbilt's  reply  to  the  toast. 

plojed  more  men  than  any  other  person  in  America.  There 
must,  then,  be  something  in  such  a  man  (loud  cheers),  and  he 
hoped  that  his  career  would  be  followed  up  for  many  years  yet 
to  come.  The  example  he  set  showed  to  persons  in  this  aifti 
other  countries  what  might  be  done  by  industry,  energy  and  per- 
severance, without  being  born  to  inherit  fortune  and  wealth. 
(Applause.)  He  gave  them,  as  a  toast  — '  Commodore  Vander- 
bilt :  May  every  happiness  accrue  to  himself  and  family  during 
his  interesting  voyage,  and  every  success  attend  all  his  spirited 
enterprises.'  The  toast  was  drank  with  enthusiastic  applause, 
renewed  ao;ain  and  again. 

"  Band  — '  The  Star-Spangled  Banner.' 

"  Commodore  Vanderbilt  (whose  rising  was  the  signal  for  re- 
newed rounds  of  cheering)  said  :  —  Ladies  and  gentlemen,  I  am 
glad  to  see  you.  It  aifords  me  sincere  pleasure  to  make  your 
acquaintance.  It  shows  that  we  are  all  one  people  (hear,  hear), 
and  I  hope  that,  by  the  power  of  steam,  our  common  countries 
will  be  so  bound  together  that  no  earthly  power  can  separate  us. 
(Loud  applause.)  Since  we  landed  in  your  beautiful  town,  we 
have  made  a  hasty  race  over  part  of  Her  Majesty's  dominions; 
and,  were  I  able  to  express  the  gratification  we  have  experienced 
in  passing  through  the  country  and  your  town,  and  the  interest 
we  feel  in  all  your  citizens  that  we  have  had  the  happiness  to  meet, 
I  am  fearful  you  would  construe  it  into  an  attempt  to  make  a 
speech.  But  I  must  refer  that  task  to  my  friend  Mr.  Clark,  who 
will  address  you  much  better  than  I  can  possibly  do. 

"  The  Mayor  jocularly  remarked  that  no  one  could  question  the 
right  of  the  worthy  Commodore  to  call  on  a  gentleman  to  whom 
he  had  given  one  of  his  daughters  to  act  as  his  substitute,  and 
he  was  sure  the  company  would  listen  with  pleasure  to  Mr.  Clark 
one  of  the  Commodore's  sons-in-law.     (Applause.) 

"  Mr.  Clark  received  a  hearty  welcome,  and,  when  the  applause 
had  subsided,  spoke  as  follows  :  —  Ladies  and  gentlemen,  I  rise 
iu  obedience  to  the  call  made  upon  me  by  the  gentleman  whom 


MR.  II.  F.  Clark's  speech.  ■     83 

you  are  pleased  this  day  to  honor.  As  a  member  of  his  family, 
as  an  individual  privileged  with  this  opportunity  of  meeting  the 
gentlemen  and  ladies  of  England,  I  should  have  been  glad  to 
have  remained  in  silence,  gratified  with  your  magnificent  hospi- 
tality. But,  when  I  recollect  that  the  honorable  gentleman  from 
whom  you  have  just  heard  a  few  words  sustains  to  us  one  of  the 
most  sacred  relations  on  earth  (hear,  hear),  —  that  we  have  re- 
ceived from  his  hearth  those  who  are  the  partners  of  our  lives 
(hear),  —  that  he,  like  your  own  illustrious  admiral,  expects  every 
man  on  whom  he  calls  to  do  his  duty  (great  cheering),  — when  I 
remember  these  things,  and  the  obligations  we  owe  to  him  and 
to  you  for  the  honor  you  have  done  him,  I  feel  that  it  would  be 
out  of  place  in  me  to  refuse  to  respond  to  his  call.  We  came 
from  our  homes  in  the  far  west,  neither  hoping  nor  expecting  to 
receive  such  princely  honors  as  those  which  you  have  conferred 
upon  us.  Commodore  Vanderbilt  constructed  a  steam  yacht  in 
accordance  with  his  tastes,  and  at  considerable  expense,  and  in- 
vited us  to  visit,  with  him,  this  glorious  land  —  the  birth-place  of 
our  fathers.  (Loud  cheers.)  If  it  has  so  happened,  or  shall  so 
happen,  that  you  find  in  this  yacht  anything  to  merit  or  receive 
your  approbation,  —  about  her  construction  anything  tending  to 
advance  the  general  improveilient  of  the  age,  and  the  growing 
commerce  of  the  world,  —  Mr.  Vanderbilt  is  already  amply  com- 
pensated. (Hear,  and  cheers.)  His  paramount  object,  in  this  visit, 
was  our  improvement  and  our  pleasure,  and  to  that  he  has  amply 
contributed ;  and  the  reception  which  he  and  his  family  have  re- 
ceived on  the  occasion  has  been  all  that  we  could  have  asked,  and 
nuich  more  than  we  could  have  anticipated.  We  left  our  homes 
in  the  far  west,  after  taking  farewell,  for  a  season,  of  all  our  do- 
mestic pleasures  and  ties  there  left  behind  us,  —  a  few  days  of 
unalloyed  pleasure,  passed  in  contemplation  of  the  works  of  the 
Great  Creator  on  his  broadest  and  most  glorious  field,  —  a  few 
nights  of  calm  repose,  undisturbed  by  danger  or  fear,  —  and,  lo  ! 
your  magnificent  shores  burst  upon  our  view.  (Much  cheering.) 
We  had  heard  of  your  generous  hospitality,  which  we  are  now 


84  MK.  Clark's  speech. 

enjoying.  We  had  heard  of  your  beautiful  river,  of  the  charming 
landscape  scenery  which  surrounds  you,  and  of  your  port,  which 
offers  its  great  advantages  to  the  commerce  of  the  world.  ^Hear, 
and  cheers.)  We  had  been  told  of  your  salubrious  climate,  and 
the  unexampled  growth  of  your  city.  We  were,  therefore,  pre- 
pared for  what  we  have  seen.  But  when  we  arrived  on  a  fine 
sunny  morning,  —  when  your  beautiful  river  first  opened  to  our 
view,  —  we  little  thought,  till  we  so  soon  experienced  it,  that  we 
should  so  truly  find  ourselves  at  home.  Everything  around  us 
here  looks  like  home.  (Loud  cheers.)  Perhaps  you  have  never 
visited  New  York,  though  but  a  short  distance  across  the  Atlan- 
tic. In  its  natural  position  it  bears  a  strong  resemblance  to  the 
great  and  ancient  city  in  which  I  now  stand,  and  from  whose 
inhabitants  we  have  received  such  kind  and  generous-hearted 
attention.  The  city  of  New  York  stands  at  the  confluence  of 
two  vast  and  mighty  rivers,  whilst  directly  in  front,  to  guard  its 
commerce  from  the  storms  of  the  ocean,  lies  Staten  Island, 
which  your  honored  guest  has  enriched  by  his  enterprise,  and 
adorned  by  his  taste.  (Grreat  cheering.)  There  lies  New  York, 
offering  its  noble  harbor  to  the  whole  world,  with  one  hand 
grasping  the  east,  and  another  the  west.  Thus,  also,  do  you  lie 
at  the  confluence  of  two  rivers,  and  in  front,  not  our  Staten 
Island,  but  your  most  beautiful  isle,  —  the  Isle  of  Wight,  —  to 
shield  your  commerce  from  the  storms  of  the  ocean,  and  to  fur- 
nish you  with  the  flowers  of  early  spring.  Have  we  not,  I  ask, 
a  right  to  feel  ourselves  at  home  ?  (Enthusiastic  cheering.)  We 
have  not  been  treated  as  strangers,  and  we  do  not  feel  ourselves 
to  be  strangers.  (Hear,  hear.)  We  have  one  common  origin. 
We  speak  one  common  language.  We  are  all  engaged  in  one 
common  cause  —  the  improvement  of  mankind.  The  English  is 
our  mother  tongue ;  our  ears  are  attuned  to  its  melodies,  and  we 
know  no  other.  (Renewed  applause.)  Those  who  suppose  that 
we  ai'e  a  different  race  "orget  that  we  are  all  one  and  the 
same  people,  and  but  one  and  the  same.  Your  great  names  are 
our  great  names.     Your  past  history  is  our  past  history.     Your 


MR.  CLARK'S   SPEECH.  85 

glorious  future  is  our  hope  and  our  pride.  We  sprang  from  you. 
We  are  happy  thus,  as  if  returning  heme,  to  greet  you  (immense 
cheering),  —  to  visit  England,  the  renowned  empire  of  which  it 
has  been  well  and  truly  said  '  that  her  morning  drum-beat,  keep- 
ing time  with  the  hours,  encircles  the  earth  in  one  continuous 
strain  of  the  mai'tial  airs  of  England.'  We  are  proud  of  the 
ancestry  from  whom  we  claim  our  descent.  We  have  stood  on 
the  soil  which  holds  the  sacred  remains  of  Milton  and  Shaks- 
peare.  (Applause.)  We  have  stood  in  the  halls  which  once 
echoed  with  the  eloquence  of  a  Chatham,  a  Fox,  a  Pitt,  and  a 
Burke.  (Continued  applause.)  Their  fame  is  ours,  as  well  as 
yours.  All  that  you  can  say  —  all  that  the  great  Anglo-Saxon 
race  who  inhabit  England  can  say —  is  that  their  ancestors  were 
the  countrymen  of  those  men ;  and  so  were  mine.  (Hear,  and 
cheers.)  It  was  little  over  two  hundred  years  ago  that  the  May- 
flower, with  her  precious  freight  of  noble  men,  left  your  beautiful 
harbor  for  the  stern  and  rock-bound  coast  of  New  England,  and 
from  the  loins  of  one  of  those  men  he  who  now  addresses  you 
has  descended.  (Hear,  hear.)  How  are  we  reminded  of  our 
home  by  everything  we  now  see  about  us  in  England  !  You 
doubtless  all  remember  that,  after  the  Mayflower  left  your  port, 
she  was  compelled  to  put  into  Plymouth  to  be  refitted.  Starting 
again,  they  named  the  place  of  their  landing  in  America  Plym- 
outh. Within  two  hundred  miles  of  that  sacred  spot  now  stand 
Newport,  Southampton  and  Northampton  —  three  of  the  most 
beautiful  of  our  American  towns.  In  view  of  all  this,  and  of 
the  welcome  as  generous  as  is  this  you  have  given  us,  I  did  not 
feel  myself  at  liberty  to  refuse  the  call  of  my  friend  and  father- 
in-law.  (Applause.)  We  have  now  stood  in  England,  and  we 
are  proud  of  you.  We  glory  in  your  prosperity  and  advance- 
ment as  in  that  of  a  parent.  And  it  is  right  that  this  feeling 
should  be  mutual.  Is  this  the  first  occasion  in  human  history 
when  a  son  feels  proud  of  his  father,  and  the  father  has  still  the 
same  right  to  be  proud  of  his  son  ?    (Cheers.)     Where  is  the 


86  MR.  CLARK'S   SPEECH. 

English  heart  that  docs  not  glory  in  the  prosperity  of  his  child  ? 
And  I  tell  you  there  is  n«  true  American  heart  which  does  not 
glory  in  the  prosperity  of  his  father.  (Great  cheering.)  We 
have,  I  again  repeat,  stood  in  Eagland ;  we  have  seen  your 
institutions ;  we  have  beheld  and  examined,  as  far  as  the  short 
time  we  have  been  here  would  permit,  your  noble  and  illustrious 
charities ;  and  we  have  not  failed  to  observe  the  universal  good 
order  and  contentment  which  pervade  your  people.  We  have 
inspected  your  works  of  art.  We  have  not  failed  to  notice  that 
everything  around  you  is  prospering,  and  that  the  only  signs  of 
decay  are  to  be  found  in  those  old  structures  which  you  are  so 
proud  to  preserve,  and  which  attest  the  glory  and  antiquity  of 
your  country.  (Loud  cheers.)  From  the  time  of  landing  on 
your  shores  till  this  hour,  we  have  felt  one  universal  thrill  of 
admiration,  which  will  not  subside  till  we  again  reach  our  homes 
in  the  western  world.  We  have  been  struck  by  the  permanency 
and  solidity  of  your  structures,  and,  whatever  may  be  the  opin- 
ions of  a  few  amongst  you  and  us,  who  will  dare  to  revile  Eng- 
land and  her  institutions,  we  say  it  is  utterly  impossible  for 
anything  but  admiration  to  be  the  general  and  abiding  feeling. 
The  convulsions  of  nature  may,  in  the  long  ages  of  the  future, 
overwhelm  this  island ;  but,  so  long  as  the  world  remains,  so  long 
will  England's  usefulness  be  felt,  and  her  power  and  glory  be 
known  and  acknowledged.  (Applause.)  Your  respected  chair- 
man has  been  pleased  to  say  that  we  Americans  have  chosen  a 
form  of  government  entirely  different  from  your  own  ;  but  in 
that  opinion  I  take  the  liberty  of  telling  him  he  is  mistaken. 
There  is  a  great  similarity  between  our  respective  forms  of 
government.  Some  of  the  most  conservative  of  our  forms  are 
taken  from  yours.  Ours  is  based  on  the  power  of  the  people, 
and  yours  is  the  same  in  theory  and  in  practice.  We  have  a 
government  of  checks  and  balances ;  and  so  have  you,  for  what 
your  Parliament  adopts  must  be  sanctioned  by  the  queen  before 
it  has  the  effect  of  law,  and  the  sceptre  of  your  queen  is  power- 
less without  the  will  of  your  Lords  and  Commons.     Ladies  and 


INVITATION    FOR   AN    EXCURSION.  87 

gentlemen,  come  and  visit  us.  (Loud  cheers.)  A  few  pleasant 
days,  and  a  few  pleasant  nights,  will  land  you  oil  our  shores. 
\^isit  and  examine  our  institutions ;  see  how  the  rich  protect 
the  poor,  and  the  poor  respect  the  rights  and  property  of  the  rich. 
Examine  our  laws,  and  you  will  find  the  Magna  Charta  of  your 
own  King  John  incorporated  in  every  State  of  the  Union  —  your 
far-famed  Bill  of  Rights  grafted  on  our  statute-books.  (Loud 
and  prolonged  cheering.)  You  will  feel  thoroughly  at  home. 
We  will  greet  you  as  friends,  and,  if  you  see  us  at  home,  you 
will  find  the  sure  indicia  of  our  English  origin,  and  you  will  all 
come  to  the  conclusion  that  we  have  no  right  to  boast  of  any 
superiority  over  you,  and  you  of  none  over  us.  (llenewed  ap- 
plause.) There  is  no  set  of  institutions  so  perfect  that  the  one 
cannot  derive  aid  and  improvement  from  the  other.  (Hear.)  I 
have  intruded  much  longer  upon  your  time  and  patience  than  I 
had  intended,  but  your  kindness  has  sustained  me.  Amongst 
the  blessings  of  Providence  still  in  store  for  us,  I  do  most  sin- 
cerely hope  that  we  may  be  able  to  cultivate  still  further  the 
acquaintance  which,  under  such  favorable  auspices,  we  have  now 
been  able  to  make  with  you.  —  The  honorable  gentleman  sat 
down  amidst  the  most  enthusiastic  acclamations. 

"  Mr.  S.  Payne  briefly  proposed,  as  the  next  toast,  '  Mrs.  Van- 
derbilt  and  the  Ladies,'  which  was  drank  with  all  the  honors. 

"Band  —  'Here's  a  health  to  all  good  lasses.' 

"Duet,  Mr.  and  Miss  Ransford —  'Tell  mc,  gentle  stranger.' 
—  Parry. 

"The  Mayor  here  took  the  opportunity  of  announcing  that 
Commodore  Vauderbilt,  with  the  generosity  that  marked  his 
career,  had  placed  his  magnificent  yacht  at  his  disposal  on  the 
following  day  (Tuesday),  for  an  excursion,  to  w^hich  all  those 
present  at  the  banquet  would  be  admitted  by  tickets,  which  could 
be  obtained  at  the  town  clerk's  ofiice  between  half-past  nine  and 
half-past  ten  on  Tuesday  morning.  The  yacht  would  start  at 
eleven.     This  announcement  was  received  with  much  cheering. 

"  Mr.  Vanderbilt,  jun.,  oiFered  his  thanks  for  the  reception  they 


88  MR.  falvey's  speech. 

had  given  to  the  toast,  and  set  the  room  in  a  roar  of  laughter  by 
expressing  a  hope  that,  as  the  bump  of  cautiousness  had  always 
distinguished  his  father,  they  would  allow  the  son  to  exhibit  it 
also,  by  saying  nothing  more,  especially  as  this  was  his  maiden 
speech.  He  proposed  the  health  of  '  The  Ladies  of  England : 
Noble  specimens  of  God's  handiwork.'  The  toast  having  been 
duly  honored, 

"  Mr.  Deacon  (the  town  clerk)  acknowledged  the  compliment,  . 
and  said   that  the  ladies  of   England  were  delighted  with   that 
opportunity  of  greeting  the  ladies  of  America. 

"  The  Mayor  said  the  next  toast  was  not  a  political  one,  and 
therefore  he  hoped  it  would  be  drank  by  all.  He  had  received  a 
telegraphic  despatch  from  Sir  Alexander  Cockburn,  regretting 
his  inability  to  be  present.  He  proposed  '  The  Members  for  the 
Borough.'     Drank  with  much  applause. 

"  Mr.  Falvey  said  it  was  his  pleasing  duty  to  propose  for  their 
acceptance  the  next  toast ;  and,  in  doing  so,  he  would  take  that 
opportunity  of  remarking  that,  from  the  able  speech  they  had 
heard  that  day  from  Mr.  Clark,  and  from  others  that  had  been 
delivered  during  the  visit  of  the  St.  Lawrence  to  Southampton, 
it  was  very  evident  that  the  people  of  America,  amid  their  other 
excellent  qualities,  had  not  neglected  the  cultivation  of  the  art 
of  oratory.  (Cheers.)  They  had  satisfactorily  demonstrated  that 
it  was  a  popular  error  to  suppose  that  men  who  could  discourse 
most  eloquently  were  not  men  of  action ;  because,  both  in  the 
Congress  of  the  United  States,  and  even  on  ordinary  festive 
occasions,  the  practical  go-ahead  character  of  our  American 
brothers  by  no  means  caused  the  divine  art  that  enabled  Demos- 
thenes to  hurl  defiance  at  King  Philip,  or  Cicero  to  denounce 
the  crimes  of  Verres,  to  be  neglected.  (Hear,  hear.)  It  was  said, 
of  old,  that  the  wise  men  came  from  the  east ;  but,  however  that 
might  be,  they  could  affirm  with  truth  in  our  own  day  that  the 
practical  and  enterprising  men  came  from  the  west ;  and, 
although  they  in  Southampton  were  not  so  far  north  as  to  make 


MR.  falvey's  speech.  89 

the  large  and  rapid  fortunes  that  some  persons  did  in  that  part 
of  the  country,  they  were  sufficiently  south  to  have  their  hearts 
partake  in  some  measure  of  the  character  of  their  genial  climate, 
and  leap,  as  it  were,  with  friendly  and  fraternal  greetings  to 
welcome  their  guests  from  the  other  side  of  the  Atlantic.  (Cheers.) 
The  toast  which  he  had  to  propose  made  a  special  reference  to 
Washington  and  Franklin,  —  two  of  the  great  founders  of  the 
mighty  republic  of  the  west ;  and  it  would  not  be  out  of  place 
to  mention,  oi)  that  interesting  occasion,  when  they  wore  honored 
by  the  presence  of  so  many  ladies,  that  it  was  to  a  fond  mother's 
teachings  the  illustrious  warrior  and  statesman  of  America  was 
indebted  for  that  ardent  love  of  truth  and  those  lessons  of  pat- 
riotism that,  throughout  the  whole  of  his  useful  life,  formed  the 
leading  characteristics  of  his  mind.  (Cheers.)  As  the  mariner  of 
old,  before  the  discovery  of  the  compass,  looked  anxiously  up  to 
the  north  star  for  safety  and  for  hope  in  steering  his  way  through 
the  ocean,  so  George  Washington,  amid  painful  and  difficult 
trials,  in  contending  for  a  time  with  factious  intrigues,  and  even 
conspiring  generals,  looked  only  to  the  honor,  the  glory,  and  the 
independence  of  his  native  land,  as  the  one  great  object  of  his 
existence.  With  such  an  example  to  guide  them,  in  addition  to 
their  own  industry  and  intelligence,  and  with  the  old  spirit  of 
the  Anglo-Saxon  race,  the  future  of  America  would  be  even 
greater  than  its  past ;  and  he  said  this  not  in  the  way  of  paying 
a  cold  and  formal  compliment  to  Commodore  Vanderbilt  and  his 
family,  but  because  the  genius  and  power  of  his  great  country 
was  felt  and  acknowledged  in  every  part  of  the  globe.  (Cheers.) 
He  begged  to  propose,  with  all  his  heart,  the  toast  that  had  been 
placed  in  his  hands,  and  to  apply  to  the  two  nations  of  the  one 
common  origin  the  words  of  an  American  authoress : 

*  Then  pray  we  for  our  country,  that  England  long  may  be 
The  holy  and  the  happy,  and  the  gloriously  free. 
Who  blesseth  her  is  blessed —  then  peace  be  in  her  walls. 
And  joy  in  all  her  palaces,  her  cottages,  and  halls.' 


90  MR.    LABAU'S   SPEECH. 

o 
Mr.  Faivey  concluded  by  proposing  — '  The  Sons  of  America  : 
May  they  ever  be  found  worthy  of  their  illustrious  predecessors, 
Washington  and  Franklin;  and  may  the  genius  and  virtue  of 
their  many  distinguished  citizens  continue  to  guide  the  onward 
progress  of  that  great  and  flourishing  people.' 

"  Scotch  Ballad,  by  Miss  Ransford,  — '  Of  a'  the  airts  the  win' 
can  blaw,'  —  which  was  rapturously  applauded,  and  a  repetition 
called  for  and  accepted. 

"  Major  Labau  (another  of  Commodore  Vanderbilt's  sons-in- 
law),  in  a  very  eloquent  address,  responded  to  the  toast. 

"  Mr.  Mayor,  Ladies  and  Gentlemen :  There  are  times  when 
such  is  the  intensity  of  the  human  feelings  that  the  heart  throbs, 
the  bosom  heaves,  the  nerves  are  relaxed,  and  the  tongue  almost 
refuses  to  perform  its  office.  Such  a  time  is  the  present,  and 
such  are  my  feelings.  Standing  for  the  first  time  on  England's 
soil,  and  partaking  of  her  numerous  bounties,  emotions  strange 
and  new  agitate  my  soul. 

"  As  you,  sir,  have  observed,  —  and  I  thank  you  for  the 
thought,  —  there  departed  from  your  hospitable  port,  some  two 
hundred  years  ago,  a  frail  bark  freighted  with  Pilgrim  Fathers. 
Like  Noah's  weary  dove,  she  went  forth,  and  pursued  her  way 
o'er  the  trackless  ocean.  By  the  providence  of  God,  a  resting- 
place  was  found  in  the  western  world.  I  need  not  now  depict 
the  sufferings  and  trials  of  those  fathers ;  nor  need  I  tell  of  their 
landing  in  a  wilderness,  the  dangers  they  incurred,  the  perils 
they  encountered.  All  is  as  familiar  as  your  household  history ; 
and  in  recounting  these  things  I  should  only  tell  you  that  which 
you  yourselves  do  know.  Suffice  it  to  say,  that  a  colony  was 
founded  ;  infant  as  it  was,  it  grew  apace.  As  years  rolled  on  it 
waxed  stronger  and  stronger,  until  it  reached  the  proportions  of 
a  man,  and  now  stands  forth  the  '  Giant  of  the  West.' 

"  That  giant,  your  progeny,  now  sends  us,  his  children,  upon 
a  visit  to  our  grandmother,  glorious  Old  England !      Ay,  glO'. 


MR.    LABAU'S    SPEECH.  91 

rious  Old  Ennjland !  next  to  mine  own  land  I  love  her  sea-eirt 
isle.  I  love  and  venerate  her  flag,  which  has  ever  floated  high 
above  the  din  of  battle,  and  under  which  a  Wellington  and  a 
Nelson  have  fought  and  conquered.  I  love  to  wander  throutrh 
the  rich  fields  of  her  intellect,  and  cull  from  thence  the  gems  of 
a  Cowper,  a  Dryden,  a  Shakspcare,  and  a  Milton.  I  love  to 
wander  'mid  the  stars  of  heaven,  and  read  their  names  and 
characters  by  the  aid  of  a  Newton  and  a  Herschel.    (Cheers.) 

"  But  why,  let  me  ask,  are  we  here  ?  Why  are  our  national 
banners  entwined  together  for  the  decoration  of  this  hall  ?  Here 
is  a  result;  what,  then,  is  the  cause?  Mankind  are  too  apt  to 
take  things  as  they  are.  They  know  results,  without  caring  for 
causes.  We  are  content  to  look  upon  and  admire  the  running 
stream,  without  caring  to  go  back  and  ascertain  by  what  hidden 
mystery  the  bubbling  water  is  sent  up  from  the  bosom  of  the 
earth.  Thought  is  our  only  medium  of  knowledge,  whatever  its 
sphere  or  its  degree.  All  begins  and  ends  with  thought.  Why, 
then,  are  we  here  ?  Has  etiquette  dictated  this  banquet  ?  Has 
it  originated  in  fashion,  which  makes  the  heart  cold  and  calcu- 
lating, causing  men  to  live  not  for  what  they  are,  but  for  what 
they  seem  to  be  ?  No,  sir.  The  banquet  is  dictated  by  other 
causes,  by  higher  feelings,  and  nobler  motives.  Are  we  not  the 
same  people  ?  Do  we  not  speak  the  same  mother  tongue,  bow 
obedience  to  the  same  principles  of  law,  and  kneel  in  worship 
before  the  altar  of  the  same  great  God  ?  Sympathy  draws  us 
to  each  other ;  unity  of  interest  binds  us  together ;  and  one 
common  cause  leads  us  to  travel  side  by  side  the  rugged  paths 
of  life.  Our  countries  are  both  engaged  in  the  advancement  of 
civilization  and  science.  Both  labor  for  the  amelioration  of  the 
condition  of  man  ;  for  the  freedom  of  the  serf;  for  the  freedom 
of  the  ignorant.  Both  strive  to  rend  asunder  the  chains  upon 
the  conscience,  the  intellect,  the  pursuits,  and  the  persons  of 
men.  Both  raise  up  the  fallen,  encourage  the  weak  and  tottor- 
iug,  and  extend  powerful  protection  to  those  unfortunates  whom 
S* 


92  MR.  labal's  speech. 

the  vultures  of  despotism  would  cover  and  devour.  Ay,  here, 
as  in  America,  may  the  political  offender  find  an  asylum  and 
refuge,  upon  a  soil  from  which  the  despots  of  Europed  are  not, 
cannot  tear  him  !     (Great  applause.) 

"  Like  assimilates  with  like.  England  and  America  arc  engaged 
in  generous  rivalry,  each  glorying  in  the  success  of  the  other. 
Ocean  steam-navigation  brings  us  nearer  to  your  shores,  and  is 
fast  tending  to  make  the  Atlantic  to  us  a  Pacific  Ocean.  (Cheers.) 

"  Well  may  we  mingle  around  the  festive  board  in  the  sincer- 
ity t  ,f  friendship  and  brotherly  love.  These  '  merrie  meetings ' 
make  us  better  acquainted  with  each  other.  Here,  divested  of 
care,  the  toils  and  troubles  of  life,  we  shine  forth  the  natural,  not 
the  artificial  man.  Indulging  in  these  thoughts,  I  have  almost 
forgotten  the  purpose  for  which  I  arose.  As  an  humble  citizen 
of  America,  I  respond  to  the  sentiment,  '  The  Sons  of  America : 
May  they  emulate  the  example  of  their  illustrious  Washington 
and  Fkanklin.' 

"  Such  a  sentiment,  coming  from  English  hearts,  pronounced 
by  the  lips  of  British  freemen,  and  receiving  the  enthusiastic 
reception  which  Englishmen  can  give  to  that  which  is  heartfelt 
and  sincere,  comes  with  great  force.  We  thank  you  for  your 
generous  wish.  And,  though  we  cannot  boast  of  possessing  in 
their  perfectness  the  godlike  virtues  of  a  Washington,  or  the 
plain,  straight-forward  simplicity  and  integrity  of  a  Franklin, 
yet  do  we  all  unite  in  preserving  that  halo  of  glory  which  their 
names  and  deeds  have  thrown  around  our  country.  Through 
them  have  we  assumed  our  high  place  in  the  political  region, 
and,  like  the  milky-way,  whiten  along  our  allotted  portion  of  the 
hemisphere.  It  shall  be  our  duty  first  to  preserve  inviolate  that 
union  which  the  blood  of  our  sires  has  cemented  together.  We 
will  protect  it  from  the  grasp  of  a  foreign  foe,  as  well  as  protect 
it  from  the  suicidal  hands  of  domestic  fanaticism.  We  .strive  to 
maintain  national  faith  and  honor,  pure  and  intact.  In  this,  at 
least,  shall  we  live  worthy  of  a  Washington.     AVc  strive  to  pro- 


MR.    LABAU  S    Sl'EECIL  93 

mote  art  and  science,  and  drive  forever  from  our  fair  Jand  io^no- 
rance  and  superstition.  In  this  shall  we  live  worthy  of  him  who, 
Promethean-like,  drew  down  to  earth  the  fires  of  heaven,  and 
made  the  forked  lightning  subservient  to  his  genius. 

"  Having  done  this,  we  extend  to  England  the  right  hand  of 
fellowship,  and  promise  to  stand  with  her  in  all  good  and  great 
works  in  the  defence  of  liberty,  and  in  the  maintenance  of  the 
religion  of  our  fathers.  It  does  not  require  the  vision  of  a  seer 
to  perceive  that  the  time  will  come  when  England  and  America 
must  form  a  close  alliance.  The  mariner  sees  in  the  cloud  no 
larger  than  his  hand  danger  and  tempest.  Such  clouds  are  now 
seen  in  the  political  horizon.  As  men  having  at  heart  the  good  of 
our  country  and  the  cause  of  human  kind,  it  behooves  us  to 
watch  and  guard.  There  is  yet  to  be  fought  the  great  battle  of 
nations;  whether  it  be  as  against  the  onward  crushing  march 
of  despotism  on  the  one  hand,  or  the  wild,  roaming  and  ungov- 
ernable passions  of  men  let  loose  for  the  destruction  of  their 
kind  on  the  other.  How,  when,  or  where  it  shall  come,  no  man 
knoweth ;  and  yet  each  and  all  of  us  feel,  in  the  solemn  stillness 
which  pervades  the  earth,  that  the  elements  are  gathering  for 
fearful  strife.  Heaven's  breezes  bear  upon  their  wings  the  groans 
of  Europe's  down-trodden  millions.  Autocrat  diplomacy,  which  has 
for  its  object  the  plunder  of  the  weak,  is  weaving  around  the  gov- 
ernments of  Europe  a  net-work  intricate  and  dangerous.  It  is  the 
modern  Delilah,  through  whose  instrumentality  the  institutions 
of  liberty  are  to  be  shorn  of  their  strength,  and  delivered  over 
into  the  hands  of  the  Philistines.  In  that  hour  of  strife,  and  the 
night  of  horror  which  precedes  it,  let  England  and  America  be 
found  together  standing  firm  as  adamant.  Let  England,  sitting 
proudly  upon  the  bosom  of  the  waters,  receive  upon  her  white 
cliffs  the  wild  waves  of  popular  commotion,  to  hurl  them  back 
into  the  angry  flood  from  whence  they  sprang.  Ay,  let  our 
banners  bo  entwined  together,  and   defended   by  the   dauntless 


94  ALDERMAN    ANDREWS'    SPEECH. 

hearts  of  Englishmen  and  Americans,  whose  battle-cry  sball  be, 
'  For  God,  the  religion  of  our  fathers,  liberty  and  freedom.' 

"  Gentlemen,  I  have  already  trespassed  too  long  upon  your 
patience.  Allow  me,  however,  ere  I  close,  to  thank  you  in  be- 
half of  my  respected  father-in-law,  and  of  our  party,  for  your 
kindness  and  hospitality.  We  have  been  the  recipients  of  your 
kindness,  and  we  are  sensible  that  we  owe  it  not  to  any  peculiar 
merit  of  our  own,  but  to  the  fact  that  we  are  American  citizens. 
As  such,  and  as  strangers,  we  came  among  you,  and  you  send  us 
hence  your  firm,  fast  friends.  Upon  this  shoal  of  time  have  we 
met,  and  in  the  fulfilment  of  our  destiny  must  again  separate. 
Soon  a  mighty  ocean  shall  roll  between  us.  But  distance  shall 
not  efface  from  our  thoughts  the  recollection  of  your  kindness, 
nor  destroy  the  emotion  of  love  and  respect  we  shall  entertain 
for  you.  In  after  years  we  shall  think  of  this  hour,  and  shall 
regard  it  as  an  oasis  in  the  desert  of  life's  pilgrimage,  around 
which  memory  shall  love  to  lie  lingering, 

'  Like  Adam  near  lost  Paradise.' 

"  In  conclusion  I  give  you  this  sentiment : 

"  The  Lion  of  England  and  the  Eagle  of  America :  May 
they  hunt  the  foe  together ;  and  that  which  the  keen  sight  and 
fierce  talons  of  the  one  shall  hunt  out  and  take  hold  of,  shall  be 
utterly  destroyed  by  the  mighty  strength  of  the  other.'  (Cheers.) 

"  Mr.  Alderman  Andrews,  in  proposing  the  next  toast,  said  that 
during  the  last  few  years  there  had  been  so  many  manifestations 
of  the  union  and  good  feeling  subsisting  between  the  people  of 
England  and  America  —  between  New  York  and  Southampton  — 
that  they  seemed  to  be,  indeed,  one  people  and  one  family.  (Hear, 
hear.)  The  St.  Lawrence  visited  them  as  a  war  frigate,  and  they 
welcomed  Captain  Paulding  and  his  officers  as  members  of  one 
common  family.  Time  rolled  on,  and  the  St.  Lawrence  visited 
their  port  again,  when  the  American  people  sent  over  in  her  a 
large  freight  to  the  Great  Industrial  Exhibition  of  1851,  and  the 


CAPTAIN    ELDRIDGE'S    SPEECH.  '    95 

same  hospitable  reception  was  awarded  to  Captain  Sands  and  his 
staff  of  officers.  And  now  they  had  another  opportunity,  in  tlie 
visit,  on  a  trip  of  pleasure,  of  the  splendid  steam  yacht  North 
Star,  the  property  of  a  noble-minded  man,  who  had  brought  with 
him  his  interesting  family.  (Applause.)  The  qualities  of  this 
noble  vessel  had  been  spoken  of  by  the  whole  of  the  press,  and 
the  conduct  of  the  worthy  commodore,  his  family,  Captain 
Eldridge,  and  the  officers,  was  deserving  of  all  praise.  Never 
had  they  experienced  more  courtesy  and  genei'osity  than  from 
all  on  board  this  fine  yacht.  lie  had  to  propose  '  Success  to 
the  North  Star,  her  commander,  officers,  and  crew.'  — The  toast 
was  drank,  with  loud  and  long-continued  cheering, 
"  Song,  Mr.  Hansford,  —  '  Old  Simon  the  Cellarer.' 
"  Capt.  Eldridge  said  he  was  much  obliged  to  them  for  the 
honor  they  had  done  to  the  toast,  especially  for  the  way  in  which 
it  had  been  received.  It  went  down  as  though  it  was  good. 
(Laughter  and  cheers.)  It  was  always  gratifying  to  a  man,  and 
especially  on  such  an  occasion,  to  have  his  health  drank  so  unani- 
mously, with  such  kind  feeling.  He  was  glad  to  say  that  he  felt 
no  embarrassment  —  he  felt  quite  at  home.  (Hear,  hear.)  The 
reception  they  had  experienced  was  a  source  of  gratitude  to 
himself,  and  his  officers  and  crew,  most  of  whom,  he  was  proud 
to  say,  were  the  sons  of  gentlemen.  (Hear,  and  cheers.)  This  was 
the  first  time  he  had  visited  Southampton;  and  he  was  much 
pleased  with  the  port,  the  entrance  of  the  docks,  and  the  excel- 
lent accommodation  afforded  (loud  cheers),  —  at  the  courtesy 
they  had  experienced,  and  the  police  and  all  other  regulations 
appertaining  to  the  docks.  (Hear.)  The  visit  of  the  North  Star 
had  created  some  interest,  and  he  thought  it  was  justly  due.  It 
was  a  noble  and  glorious  enterprise,  and  he  felt  proud  of  the 
ship  and  the  position  he  held  in  her.  The  commodore  had  con- 
ferred an  honor  upon  him  in  giving  him  the  command,  and  he 
thanked  him  for  it.  He  was  proud  of  him  as  a  man,  and  also  of 
his  sons  and  daughters,  —  he  loved  them   all.     Every  captain 


96  REV.  J.  w.  wyld's  speech. 

was  proud  of  hi  3  own  ship,  and  he  had  no  wish  to  be  particular 
in  this  respect.  (Laughter  and  cheers.)  lie  thanked  Mr.  Andrews 
for  the  courtesy,  kindness  and  hospitality,  he  had  received  at 
his  house ;  and  he  thanked  them  all  for  the  honor  that  had  been 
conferred  on  the  gallant  commodore  and  his  party.  The  North 
Star  was  opened  to  the  public  last  week,  and  he  then  hoisted  the 
English  flag  by  the  side  of  the  American,  and  so  he  hoped  the 
two  flags  would  long  continue.  (Loud  cheers.)  England  and 
America,  if  separated,  may  get  into  difiiculties,  but,  united 
together,  they  will  whip  the  world.  (Loud  cheering.) 

"  The  Rev.  J.  W.  Wyld,  in  proposing  the  next  toast,  said  it 
had  been  remarked  by  a  speaker,  —  one  of  their  brethren  from 
America,  who  had  preceded  him,  —  that  we  were  prone  to  take 
up  with  things  as  they  ofiered  themselves  to  us,  without  inquir- 
ing into  them,  —  to  wander  by  the  stream,  without  caring  to  seek 
out  its  source.  Such  a  remark  was  naturally  suggestive  of  the* 
fact  that  the  significance  of  an  incident  or  event  was  materially 
connected,  in  our  judgment,  with  the  aspect  under  which  it  was 
viewed.  Thus  was  it  in  reference  to  the  present  festivity,  and 
the  circumstances  which  had  given  rise  to  it.  He  could  imagine 
many  a  listless  spectator  looking  on  the  North  Star  yacht,  now 
lying  by  the  quay  of  our  docks,  without  attaching  any  meaning 
to  the  simple  circumstance  that  she  was  lying  there.  He  could 
likewise  imagine  some  one  of  those  good-natured  people,  to  be 
found  in  society,  whose  pleasure  seems  to  consist  in  calling  in 
question  the  seasonableness  of  the  pleasures  which  every  one  else 
enjoys  (hear,  hear),  —  he  could  imagine  some  one  of  those  good- 
natured  people  inquiring,  '  Why  so  much  ado  about  a  gentleman 
and  his  family  coming  to  port  in  their  own  vessel  ? '  'Is  this 
a  matter  to  be  noticed  by  demonstrations  of  joy  and  public  feast- 
ing ? '  '  "What  is  there  in  such  an  incident  to  originate  a 
banque't.  under  the  auspices  of  the  Mayor  and  the  principal  mer- 
chants and  traders  of  the  town  ? '  Such  inquiries  as  these  he 
was  fiily  prepared  to  meet.  (Hear,  hear.)  In  his  humble  opinion, 


iiEV.  J.  w.  wild's  speech.  97 

the  arrival  of  Commodore  Vanderbilt  was  associated  with  much 
that  was  highly  significant,  and  which  gave  not  only  the  founda- 
tion of  reason  and  propriety  to  their  present  proceedings,  as 
being  a  friendly  welcome,  but  also  as  having  a  beneficial  bearing 
on  the  national  relationships  of  two  great  countries  for  the 
future.  (Applause.)  It  was  significant  of  the  advanced  state  of 
the  world  at  this  time,  to  behold  a  gentleman  freighting  a  vessel 
with  those  who  were  nearest  and  dearest  to  him  on  earth,  and 
coufidently  setting  out  to  traverse  the  greater  half  of  the  globe, 
and  pay  his  respects  to  the  chief  civilized  nations.  (Cheers.)  It 
was  significant  of  the  advanced  state  of  science  and  art ;  for, 
without  the  knowledge  of  the  aid  which  there  could  be  sum- 
moned to  afford  him,  the  practicability  of  his  carrying  out  his 
purpose  within  a  given  time,  and  thus  making  a  tour  of  recrea- 
tion thousands  of  miles  away  from  home  a  limited  episode  in 
the  gigantic  activities  which  employed  him  in  his  own  country, 
would  never  have  found  a  place  in  his  thoughts.  It  was  signifi- 
cant, also,  of  the  advancement  of  commerce  ;  for  it  was  a  man 
whose  wealth  had  been  amassed  in  commerce  that  was  enabled 
thus,  in  his  own  vessel,  to  transport  himself  at  pleasure  to  dis- 
tant shores.  (Hear.)  He  desired,  therefore,  plainly  to  assure 
those  who  were  guests  on  this  occasion,  that  they  who  had  invited 
them  to  this  entertainment  could  give  a  reason  for  such  invita- 
tion ;  that  they  knew  what  they  were  doing ;  that  this  festiv- 
ity was  not  a  mere  ceremonial  of  etiquette  (hear,  hear,  and  loud 
cheers),  —  not  the  form  into  which  a  momentary  impulse  of 
courtesy  had  shaped  itself;  — but  a  deliberate  expression  of  sin- 
cere feeling,  —  a  real  English-hearted  welcome.  (Renewed  cheer- 
ing.) He  had  seen  it  stated  that  their  chief  guest,  Commodore 
Vanderbilt,  was  a  '  self-made '  man.  He  could  not  under- 
stand, however,  in  what  the  peculiar  force  of  this  descriptive 
epithet  consisted.  It  was  a  description  which,  in  his  humble 
judgment,  belonged,  as  a  matter  of  course,  to  all  men  of  honor- 


98  REV.  J.  w.  wyld's  speech. 

able  celebrity.  Divine  Providence  did  not,  at  the  first  hand,  so 
to  speak,  make  men  great,  or  honorable,  or  useful.  This  was,  in 
a  measure,  left  to  be  the  work  of  their  own  prudence,  industry 
and  integrity.  There  were  materials  placed  within  their  reach 
by  Providence,  out  of  which  they  might  elaborate  to  themselves 
a  station  and  a  name  amongst  their  fellow-men  ;  and,  if  these 
were  judiciously  and  opportunely  employed  by  them,  they  became 
great.  (Hear.)  Similar  advantages  and  similar  opportunities 
might  be  granted  to  two  men  of  similar  abilities ;  but  the  one, 
neglecting  these  advantages  and  opportunities,  and  being  unfaith- 
ful to  his  own  inward  monitions,  passed  through  life  unknown, 
and  at  length  descended  to  the  grave  unmissed,  unhonored  and 
unsung;  whilst  the  other,  duly  improving  every  advantage, 
wisely  using  every  opportunity,  and  loyally  heeding  every  dic- 
tate of  an  enlightened  judgment  within  him,  became  a  man  whom 
a  nation  might  be  proud  to  call  its  own,  and  whom  the  admira- 
tion of  the  world  woidd  be  ready  to  honor.  (Applause.)  In 
welcoming,  then,  such  a  '  self-made '  man  amongst  them  to-day, 
they  were  also  testifying  their  homage  to  the  great  cause  of  com- 
merce, with  which  his  greatness  was  identified ;  and,  in  doing 
this,  their  proceedings  might  be  viewed  as  further  including  an 
unfeigned  regard  for  the  cause  of  civilization  in  general ;  for 
commerce  was  the  offspring  of  peace,  and  in  proportion  as  peace 
prevailed  commerce  was  favored,  and  in  proportion  as  com- 
merce was  favored  the  mutual  intercourse  of  mankind  was  pro- 
moted ;  and  in  proportion  as  the  mutual  intercourse  of  mankind 
was  promoted,  good  understandings,  friendship,  and  true  brother- 
iood  amongst  the  individuals  of  our  race,  were  fostered.  (Ap- 
plause.) He  had  heard  of  a  Scottish  farmer,  who,  in  the  course 
of  one  of  his  morning  rambles,  beheld,  through  the  mist  that 
covered  the  valley  along  which  Ije  was  proceeding,  a  figure 
approaching  him,  like  that  of  a  giant,  brandishing  a  club  where- 
with to  smite  down  every  living  creature  that  might  come  in  his 
way.     Startled  at  this  strange   appearance,  the  farmer  for  a 


REV.  J.  w.  wyld's  speech.  99 

moment  paused  ;  but,  seeing  the  monster  continuing  to  advance, 
lie  felt  his  native  valor  instinctively  urge  him  onward  to  the 
encounter.  As,  however,  be  continued  to  come  nearer  to  the- 
figure,  and  the  figure  came  nearer  to  him,  and  the  mist  between 
them  both  began  to  clear  away,  the  farmer  beheld  the  form  of 
the  stranger  reduced  from  the  proportions  of  a  giant  to  those  of 
an  ordinary  man,  and  his  terrible  club  turned  into  a  moderately- 
sized  walking-stick ;  and  when  at  the  last  he  actually  came  up 
to  the  said  figure,  he  became  apprized  of  the  fact  that,  so  far 
from  its  being  a  giant,  or  even  a  stranger,  it  was  his  own  brother. 
Thus  had  it  often  happened  in  the  history  of  human  society. 
Men  beheld  each  other  at  a  distance,  and  through  the  mists  of 
prejudice  and  ignorance,  as  strangers  and  monsters ;  but,  as  they 
came  nearer  to  one  another,  and  the  mists  which  had  distorted 
their  figures  in  the  eyes  of  one  another  cleared  away,  they 
found  themselves  to  be  brethren  to  one  another.  (Loud  cheers.) 
It  was  only  because  men  were  reciprocally  unacquainted  that 
misunderstandings  and  dislikes,  hatred  and  all  kinds  of  erroneous 
estimates,  were  mutually  promoted.  Kepetitions  of  such  a  scene 
as  the  present  were  amongst  the  best  modes  of  dispelling  foolish 
and  false  feelings  between  man  and  man,  and  truly  contributing 
to  insure  the  peace  of  the  world,  and  consef|uently  the  interests 
of  commerce.  He  believed,  indeed,  that  there  might  arise  occa- 
sions \A\cn  war  was  a  righteous  duty.  (Hear,  hear.)  He  spoke 
this  guardedly,  and  consistently,  in  his  judgment,  with  his  being 
a  minister  of  peace.  He  held  that  there  might  be  times  when  it 
was  incumbent  on  every  good  citizen,  every  true  lover  of  his 
country,  to  buckle  on  the  weapons  of  fight  at  the  bidding  of 
the  chief  magistrate,  and  hold  himself  in  readiness  to  be  disposed 
of  as  being  set  for  the  defence  of  his  fatherland.  (Hear,  hear.) 
Yet  he  would  observe  that  such  a  view  as  this  regarded  war  as  a 
horrid  necessity  only,  on  the  supposition  that  every  other  method 
for  vindicating  right  and  justice  had  been  adopted.  But,  alas  ! 
how  generally  had  wars  been  fomented  by  the  ambition  and 
9 


100  REV.    J.    W.    WYLD'fe    SPEECH. 

avarice  of  princes  and  rulers.     Wars,  as  they  had  appeared  on 
the  pao'e  of  history,  had  been  the  arguments  of  madmen,  or  tho 
reckless  staking  of  the  welfare  of  thousands  to  serve  the  folly 
of  one  or  a  few.     It  was  not  the  interest  of  the  people  of  one 
country  to  quarrel  with  those  of  anothoy,  whatever  might  be  the 
designing  aims  of  their  rulers.   (Loud  cheers.)     iSor  would  they 
ever  quarrel,  if  left  to  follow  out  the  development  of  the  com- 
mercial  spirit.     It  was  this  spirit,  he  believed,  which  had,  in 
times  past,  invariably  been  the  reverse  of  blessedness  to  every 
community.    He  could  not  resist  the  impression  that  many  of  those 
who,  in  ancient  times,  were  most  renowned,  were  men  of  com- 
merce, and  not  men  of  war.     Abraham  and  the  other  patriarchs, 
it  was  well  known,  were  large  sheep-owners.     And,  for  his  own 
part,  he  doubted  not  that,  if  we  could  get  at  the  right  explana- 
tion of  many  traditions  that  have  come  down  to  us  from  the  first 
ages  of  the  world,  your  traders,  your  men  of  business,  would  be 
found  holding  the  chief  and  most  important  positions.     What 
should  hinder  us  from  getting  at  the  most  satisfactory  explana- 
tion of  the   story  of  Jason  and  his  '  golden  fleece,'  by  assuming 
that  this  Jason  was  one  of  the  '  go-ahead '   men  of  his  time, 
and,  having  freighted  his  vessel  with  a  cargo  of  what  might  have 
been  the  Manchester  goods  of  that  era,  he  returned  home  with  a 
sheep's  skin  full  of  gold  as  the  result  of  the  sales  he  had  eflfected  ? 
It  was  just  such  meetings  as  the  present  that  tended  to  make 
the  commercial  spirit  between  England  and  America  the  bond  of 
peace.     The  influence  of  such  a  meeting  could  not  be  calculated. 
It  would  not  be  limited  to  the  personal  feeling  of  those  who  had 
honored  them  as  their  guests  that  day  ;  it  would  have  a  wider 
range  of  extension,  and  the  cordial  greeting  here  given  to  one 
of  the  principal  merchant  princes  of  America  would   become 
known   throughout  his  country,   and,   as   often  as  referred  to, 
would  be  productive  of  the  most  desirable  and  kindly  of  feelings. 
The  hope  had  been  expressed  that  the  eagle  of  America  and  the 
lion  of  England  would  always  be  found  hunting  together.     Yes, 


REV.    DR.    CHOULES'    SPEECH.  101 

he  trusted  that  they  would  thus  hunt,  in  company  and  harmony, 
for  the  purpose  of  removing  all  meaner  birds  and  beasts  of  prey 
from  the  face  of  the  earth,  and  for  the  clearing  away  of  every- 
thing that  was  destructive  to  the  world's  civilization.  The 
interests  of  England  and  America  were  the  same.  There  was  a 
family  tie  between  John  Bull  and  his  son  Jonathan,  and  the 
peace  which  was  essential  to  its  preservation  was  bound  up  in 
their  commercial  relationships.  This,  then,  was  the  sentiment 
of  the  toast  he  was  intrusted  to  propose  — '  England  and 
America :  May  peace  and  commerce  long  unite  them.'  The 
reverend  gentleman  was  loudly  cheered  on  resuming  his  seat. 

"  The  Rev.  Dr.  Choules,  in  rising  to  acknowledge  the  toast, 
was  much  applauded.     He  said  : 

"  I  suppose  that  I  have  been  called  upon  to  respond  to  this 
toast  on  account  of  my  relation  to  England  and  the  United 
States.  I  am  a  native  of  England,  but  have  been  a  resident  in 
the  American  Union  for  thirty  years.  I  love  the  land  of  my 
birth,  and  I  glory  in  the  country  of  my  choice.  No  man  lives 
who  longs  more  than  I  do  to  see  these  great  and  glorious  lands 
united  -in  the  bands  of  cordial,  brotherly  attachment,  and  I  am 
glad  to  know  that  all  good  men  in  both  of  them  participate  in 
this  desire ;  and,  if  it  were  not  for  the  denaturalized  eflforts  of  a 
few  corrupt  leaders  of  the  press,  and  a  handful  of  partisan  dem- 
agogues, the  feeling  would  be  almost  universal  in  Great  Britain 
and  America.  Our  happy  country  has  much  to  enlist  the  warm 
aflfections  of  her  citizens.  Sir,  America  has  a  history  of  which 
we  may  be  proud.  Her  founders  were  not  children  suckled  by  a 
she-wolf  in  the  woods,  —  they  were  no  fugitives  from  a  ruined 
Troy ;  but  they  were  a  rare  race  of  men,  reared  up  for  a  rare 
purpose.  They  sought  what  England  did  not  then  afford ;  and 
they  found  the  object  of  their  pilgrimage, 

'  A  faith's  pure  shrine. 
Freedom  to  worship  God.' 


102  REV.    DR.    CIIOULES'    SPEECH. 

"  Now,  every  nation  on  earth  is  turning  to  America  the  look 
of  imploring  pitj ;  long,  long  may  she  be  the  lighthouse  of  the 
-world,  —  the  evangelist  of  the  nations  !  (Hear,  and  cheers.)  As 
Boon  as  our  citizens  land  in  England,  they  feel  at  home,  thor- 
oughly at  home !  We  love  to  call  England  '  the  old  country,' 
'  mother  country,'  and  '  land  of  our  fathers.'  What  sort  of 
a  land  should  we  now  possess  if  we  had  a  Spanish  origin,  a 
French  descent  ?  Let  the  distracted  states  of  South  and  Cen- 
tral America  furnish  the  solution.  (Hear,  hear.)  Americans 
claim  an  equal  interest,  as  Mr.  Clark  has  eloquently  told  you, 
in  your  Milton,  Bacon,  Newton,  Burke,  and  Boyle;  these  and 
Shakspeare  are  quite  as  much  ours  as  they  are  3^ours.  These 
intellectual  treasures  belong  to  us  as  much  as  they  do  to  the 
lords  of  the  British  soil.  This  patrimony  is  ours  ;  and  our  sons 
have  had  their  patriotism  animated  by  careful  study  of  the 
acts  and  sufferings  and  speeches  of  your  Hampdens,  Russells, 
Vanes  and  Sydneys.  Land  of  our  fathers,  and  the  hom;  of  a 
civilization  such  as  our  world  cannot  parallel  !  far  distant  be 
the  day  when  Americans  shall  cease  to  feel  devotion  at  the 
shrine  of  thy  mighty  dead,  and  gather  fresh  inspiration  from 
their  genius,  learning  and  virtues  !     (Loud  cheers.) 

"  When  we  land  in  your  venerable  town,  sir,  we,  too,  have 
local  associations  of  the  tenderest  character.  We  cannot  forget 
that  hence  sailed  the  Mayflower  and  her  precious  freight.  On 
board  that  ark  was  written  the  first  constitution  that  insured  to 
man  the  enjoyment  of  equal  laws  and  full  liberty  of  conscience. 
Probably  many  who  saw  that  ship  depart  regarded  it  as  a  matter 
of  small  moment ;  only  the  departure  of  a  few  weary  men  and 
women  panting  for  a  land  of  freedom,  whei'e  they  could  worship 
God  free  from  oppression  and  persecution.  These  men  had  small 
means,  and  wore  plain  habiliments.  Thus  it  is  in  the  providence 
of  God,  who  often  connects  ultimate  grandeur  with  apparent 
original  insignificance.  Newton,  you  know,  ascended  to  the 
loftiest  heights  of  science  by  the  acquisition  of  the  alphabet ;  the 


REV.    DR.    CHOULES'    SPEECH.  103 

Saviour  of  the  world  was  once  the  occupant  of  a  stable ;  and 
the  foundations  of  our  holy  religion  were  laid  by  a  few  poor  fish- 
ermen. Yes,  I  think  it  probable  that  men,  standing  on  your 
beautiful  shores,  gazed  and  smiled  at  the  Mayflower  as  she 
departed  from  your  waters ;  but  they  were  looking  at  men  who 
were  to  found  au  empire  of  freedom,  and  who,  soon  after  landing 
in  a  long-boat  from  their  weather-beaten  bark,  kindled  up  a 
beacon  fire  which  will  yet  enlighten  the  world,  and  carried  with 
them  a  leaven  which  has  yet  to  leaven  the  whole  mass  of  suffer- 
ing humanity.    (Hear,  and  cheers.) 

"  When  we  land  in  Southampton,  we  cannot  forget  your  illus- 
trious Watts,  whose  songs  have  charmed  and  taught  our  child- 
hood, animated  the  devotions  of  our  fathers'  sanctuaries,  and 
placed  notes  of  triumph  in  the  lips  of  myriads  as  they  have  gone 
through  the  valley  of  the  shadow  of  death.  The  true  interest 
of  Britain  and  the  United  States  is  to  cultivate  a  brotherly 
regard  ;  our  interests  are  identical.   (Yes,  yes.) 

"  If  Americans  visit  England,  and  Englishmen  visit  the 
United  States,  interchanging  civilities  and  hospitalities,  as  we 
are  now  doing,  no  premier  nor  government  of  either  country  can 
ever  set  these  great  nations  at  war,  —  a  game  which  rulers  can- 
not play  at  when  the  people  are  wise  and  virtuous.     (Applause.) 

"  I  beg  leave,  sir,  to  propose  '  The  health  of  that  venerable 
lady,  Mrs.  Vanderbilt,  the  mother  of  your  honored  guest,' 

*'  This  toast  was  warmly  responded  to  by  the  company. 

"  Commodore  Vanderbilt  said  he  had  been  accustomed,  all 
his  life,  to  go  direct  to  a  point ;  and  he  would  therefore,  with- 
out preface,  propose  '  The  Mayor  and  Corporation  of  South- 
ampton.'    Drank,  with  loud  cheers. 

"  Grlee,  by  the  Eansford  family  —  '  Sportive  little  trifler,'  — 
BisJiop. 

"  The  Mayor  briefly  replied,  remarking  that  the  Mayor  and 
Corporation  had  arduous  duties  to  perform,  but  such  seasons  as 
this  amply  repaid  them  for  all  their  troubles  and  difficulties. 
9* 


104  DEPAllTUKE    FOR    EXCUllSION 

"  Mr.  Mayes,  in  a  few  eulogistic  remarks  on  that  gentleman's 
character  and  conduct  since  his  residence  in  Southampton,  pro- 
posed the  health  of  '  Mr.  Croskey,  Consul  of  the  United  States 
of  America;  and  prosperity  to  the  Ocean  Steam  Navigation 
Company  of  New  York.'  The  toast  was  warmly  received,  and 
acknowledged,  in  a  few  words,  by  the  Mayor,  on  behalf  of  Mr. 
Croskey. 

"  The  toasts  of  '  The  Town  Clerk  '  and  'The  Press'  were  sub- 
sequently drank  and  responded  to,  and  the  company  separated, 
looking  forward  with  agreeable  anticipations  to  a  pleasant  excur- 
sion on  the  morrow." 

"EXCURSION    ROUND    THE    ISLE    OF    WIGHT    AND   TO    SPITIIEAD. 
ITaken  from  New  Hampshire  Independent.] 

"  On  Tuesday  morning,  about  four  hundred  persons,  consisting 
of  the  Mayor  and  Mayoress,  many  members  of  the  corporate 
body,  the  principal  merchants  and  tradesmen  of  the  town,  a 
goodly  party  of  ladies,  &c.,  availed  themselves  of  the  kind  oifer 
of  Commodore  Vanderbilt  to  take  a  trip  in  the  North  Star  ;  and, 
accordingly,  about  half-past  eleven  o'clock,  the  gallant  vessel 
steamed  away  from  the  dock-head,  an  excellent  band  on  board 
playing  the  national  anthem,  and  the  national  colors  of  England 
and  America  proudly  floating  in  the  breeze  from  the  mast-heads. 
Several  hundreds  of  persons  had  assembled  on  the  docks  to  wit- 
ness her  departure.  The  invitation-cards  notified  a  trip  to  Spit- 
head,  to  view  the  Duke  of  Wellington,  the  magnificent  new  screw 
three-decker,  and  the  other  ships  of  the  squadron  lying  at  Spit- 
head  ;  but,  after  passing  Calshot  Castle,  the  party  on  board  were 
delighted  to  find  that  the  bow  of  the  North  Star  was  turned  to 
the  westward,  and  that  a  trip  round  the  Isle  of  Wight  had  been 
resolved  on.  The  weather  was  fine,  and  the  Solent  and  the 
Channel  were  perfectly  calm.  The  magnitude  of  the  yacht  and 
the  smoothness  of  the  sea  prevented  much  motion  being  felt  dur- 


ROUND    THE    ISLE    OF    V/IGIIIT.  105 

ing  the  whole  of  the  voyage.  The  afternoon  being  beautifully 
fine  and  clear,  the  lovely  and  majestic  .scenery,  for  which  the 
back  of  the  Wight  is  so  justly  celebrated,  was  nuica  enjoyed  by 
all  on  board,  especially  by  the  American  ladies  and  gentlemen, 
and  a  more  delightful  trip  was  never  made.  In  passing  Yent- 
nor,  flags  were  run  up  the  several  flag-posts  on  shore,  in  compli- 
ment to  the  North  Star,  which  was  returned  on  board  by  dipping 
colors,  and  firing  a  succession  of  salutes.  About  four  o'clock  the 
North  Star  got  to  Spithead,  and  steamed  twice  through  the  fleet, 
thus  affording  the  company  an  opportunity  of  seeing  the  Duke 
of  Wellington,  and  the  other  ships  of  the  squadron  moored  there. 
The  fleet  comprises  the  Duke  of  Wellington,  lol ;  Ajax,  60; 
Blenheim,  GO;  Ilogue,  58;  Edinburgh,  58;  Sidon,  22;  and 
Odin,  IG.  On  nearing  the  first-named  magnificent  and  stupen- 
dous ship,  the  North  Star  fired  a  royal  salute,  the  whole  com- 
pany on  board  cheering,  and  the  band  playing  '  God  save  the 
Queen.'  This  demonstration  was  replied  to  from  the  Duke  of 
Wellington  by  cheering,  on  the  part  of  the  crew,  who  manned 
the  rigging  for  the  purpose,  and  dipping  the  ensign.  The  guns 
were  not,  however,  returned,  —  naval  etiquette  preventing  a 
salute  in  honor  of  a  private  and  non-official  personage.  The 
sight  at  Spithead  was  a  very  imposing  one,  and,  combined  with 
the  inspection  of  the  lovely  natural  wonders  ranging  the  coast, 
from  the  Needles  on  the  west  to  the  Culver  Clifts  on  the  east, 
rendered  this  one  of  the  most  interesting  and  pleasant  excursions 
ever  made  in  this  part  of  the  world. 

"  After  leaving  Spithead,  the  gallant  yacht  steered  for  South- 
ampton ;  and,  during  her  progress  up  the  Southampton  river, 
the  company  assembled  in  the  saloon,  where  they  were  briefly 
addressed  by  the  Mayor.  His  worship  acknowledged,  on  behalf 
of  the  people  of  Southampton,  the  great  compliment  that  Com- 
modore Vanderbilt  had  conferred  on  them  by  visiting  their  port, 
and  the  kindness  and  courtesy  of  himself  and  family  in  throwing 
open  to  the  public  his  yacht,  —  an  object  worthy  of  much  curi- 


106  SPEECHES  IN  THE  CABIN,  ETC. 

osity ;  and,  after  dwelling  on  the  advantages  which  an  intei'- 
change  of  civilities  amongst  individuals  belonging  to  two  of  the 
greatest  nations  of  the  world  must  produce,  he  proposed  three 
cheers  for  Commodore  Vanderbilt  and  his  family.  This  call  was 
right  heartily  responded  to  by  the  company,  whose  cheers  rung 
through  the  ship  for  several  minutes.  Major  Labau,  on  behalf 
of  the  commodore,  thanked  the  Mayor  and  inhabitants  of  South- 
ampton for  the  cordiality  with  which  they  had  been  received, 
reiterating  the  kindly  and  fraternal  sentiments  which  character- 
ized the  speeches  delivered  at  the  banquet  on  the  preceding  day, 
and  which  cannot  but  be  productive  of  good  feeling  and  amity 
between  the  nations.  The  company  were  subsequently  addressed, 
in  obedience  to  calls  made  upon  them,  by  the  Rev.  A.  McLaren 
and  F.  Cooper,  Esq.,  by  which  time  the  yacht  had  reached  the 
entrance  of  the  Southampton  docks,  where  the  excursionists  took 
leave  of  their  American  friends,  amidst  the  warmest  expressions 
of  affectionate  regard  and  esteem. 

"  During  the  whole  of  the  day  the  greatest  attention  and  cour- 
tesy was  shown  by  the  Americans  to  their  numerous  guests.  The 
whole  of  the  ship  w^as  thrown  open  to  the  visitors,  and  refresh- 
ments of  every  kind  were  served  in  the  most  lavish  abundance. 
Although  the  number  of  persons  on  board  (including  the  commo- 
dore and  his  family,  the  crew,  &c.)  could  not  have  been  much 
under  five  hundred,  yet  the  great  size  of  the  ship,  the  splendid 
fittings  and  roomy  arrangements  of  the  cabin  and  saloons,  and 
the  convenient  and  extensive  promenade  afforded  on  the  spar 
deck  (nearly  three  hundred  feet  long),  and  other  portions  of  the 
vessel,  caused  the  party  to  appear  by  no  means  a  large  one. 
After  dinner,  the  young  folks  repaired  to  the  gun-deck,  and  had 
a  joyous  time  in  waltzing,  with  excellent  music  from  the  band. 
Among  the  visitors  on  this  excursion  were  W.  H.Wills,  Esq.,  of 
Bristol,  and  the  llev.  Mr.  Gunn,  of  Warminster,  who  came  on 
purpose  to  visit  the  yacht. 

"The  North  Star  goes  through  the  water  most  beautifully,  and 


L'EPARTURE    FOR   THE    BALTIC.  107 

with  great  speed,  the  machinery  working  with  exquisite  smooth- 
ness. The  two  large  sway-beams,  working  on  deck  at  a  great 
elevation,  and  communicating  the  driving-power  to  the  ponderous 
cranks  below,  are  a  novel  feature  in  this  country,  and  give  the 
ship  a  curious  appearance  from  the  distance. 

"  The  North  Star  ran  alongside  the  dock-head  about  half-past 
six  o'clock,  and  the  band  played  the  national  anthems  of  England 
and  America  whilst  the  company  were  landing." 


"  DEPARTURE    OF    THE   NORTH    STAR. 

"  Immediately  the  English  guests  were  all  landed,  the  North 
Star  put  about,  and  bade  a  final  adieu  to  Southampton,  starting 
for  the  German  Ocean.  It  is  understood  that  she  will  proceed 
up  the  Baltic  and  the  Neva,  and  from  thence  Commodore  A^'an 
derbilt  will  visit  the  shores  of  the  Mediterranean. 

"  Commodore  Vanderbilt  has  left  behind  him  agreeable  remin- 
iscences of  his  kindness  and  courtesy  from  the  moment  of  his 
arrival.  It  is  calculated  that  at  least  ten  thousand  persons  have 
inspected  the  North  Star  at  Southampton. *=  The  yacht  will  not 
again  call  here,  as  she  is  to  touch  at  Havre  on  her  way  from  the 
Baltic  trip  to  the  Mediterranean." 

*  A  large  party  of  visitors  was  on  board  at  Southampton,  who  camo 
from  Scotland  direct  to  visit  the  North  Star. 


CHAPTER  VII. 

VOYAGE COA.-T  OF  NORWAY KKONBORG    CASTLE   AND  ELSINOEE SHIPS 

IN    THE   SOUND COPENHAGEN BORNHOLM   AND    OLAND    ISLANDS DK. 

LINSLY MIRAGE DAGO  ISLAND STEAMER    NEPTUNE CRONSTADT 

FORTIFICATIONS DOCKS SHIPPING PUBLIC     BUILDINGS  CHOLERA 

PETERHOFF WOODS VAUXHALL  HOTEL MARLY    AND   MONPLAISIK 

PETER  THE  GREAT HIS  HOUSE FURNITURE COTTAGE  OF  CATHE- 
RINE  A  RIDE  THROUGH  THE  GROUNDS WATER- WORKS,  ETC.  PETER- 
HOFF   IMPERIAL   PALACE IMPERIAL  YACHT,  AND  GRAND  DUKE  CONSTAN- 

TINE ADMIRAL     GLASSENAPP MR.     MULLER MINIATURE     PALACE 

COSSACKS. 

June  14.  —  Immediately  after  landing  our  friends  at  Southamp- 
ton, we  steamed  off,  at  about  eight  o'clock  p.  m.,  for  St.  Peters- 
burg, making  use  of  only  two  boilers,  and  consuming  only 
twenty-five  tons  coal.  The  intense  fog,  which  sprang  up  and 
continued  for  the  next  two  days,  deprived  us  of  much  enjoyment, 
and  on  the  15th  and  IGth  we  were  unable  to  take  observations. 
The  17th  was  a  delightful,  balmy  day,  and  the  sea  continued,  as 
it  had  been  from  leaving  England,  like  a  sea  of  glass.  On  the 
morning  of  the  18th  we  were  all  on  deck  at  sunrise,  enjoying  a 
most  charming  view  of  the  coast  of  Sweden  and  Denmark,  as 
we  were  sailing  through  the  narrow  passes  of  the  Skager  E,ack 
and  the  Cattegat.  This  is  the  anniversary  of  the  battle  of  Water- 
loo, and  controversy  runs  sharp  between  the  admirers  of  "Wel- 
lington and  the  emperor.  Alison's  history  is  in  great  demand, 
and,  of  course,  is  criticized  pretty  freely.  A  recent  attempt  in 
New  York  to  bolster  up  every  act  and  opinion  of  the  great  man 
is  also  quoted  as  an  indication  of  public  opinion.  A  more 
unscrupulous  vindication  was  never  written  in  France ;  and,  in 
many  respects,  it  beats  the  emperor's  own  bulletins.     That  Napo- 


ELSINORE — SHIPS   IN   THE    SOUND.  109 

leon  was  a  great  man,  —  that  he  was,  in  many  respects,  a  bene- 
factor to  France,  —  no  one  will  deny;  but  that  his  restless 
ambition  was  a  scourge  to  Europe,  is  apparent ;  and  the  wisdom 
of  the  courts  of  Europe  could  devise  no  safety  for  themselves 
short  of  his  overthrow.  We  were  all  enchanted  with  the  pros- 
pect that  opened  upon  us  as  we  made  Elsinore,  and  obtained  a 
sight  of  Kronborg  Castle,  which  is  beautifully  situated  on  the 
narrowest  part  of  the  sound,  opposite  the  Swedish  seaport  of 
Helsinborg,  about  three  miles  distant.  This  noble  fortress  was 
built  by  Frederick  II.  at  the  close  of  the  sixteenth  century,  and 
is  regarded  as  one  of  the  noblest  castles  of  northern  Europe.  It 
is  built  in  the  Gothic  style,  and  has  several  lofty  towers  and 
turrets.  The  design  of  the  fortress  was  made  by  the  great 
astronomer,  Tycho  Brahe.  It  was  in  this  prison  that  Queen 
Caroline  Matilda  was  so  long  confined,  on  account  of  her  supposed 
criminal  intercourse  with  Cocnt  Struensee.  At  this  place  is  laid 
the  scene  of  the  great  play  of  Sihakspeare ;  but  it  is  all  the 
merest  fiction,  as  we  have  no  proof  tt.  show  that  Denmark  ever 
had  a  Hamlet  for  its  sovereign.  Elsinore  ;§  a  pretty  town,  with 
fine  environs  ;  its  present  population  is  about  v^n  thousand.  It 
is  calculated  that  about  eighteen  thousand  ships  i^ass  throuo-h 
the  sound  annually,  and  here  it  is  that  the  tax  is  paii!v  on  their 
cargoes.  This  tax  was  reduced  in  1842,  and  again  in  184t  In 
1847  the  number  of  vessels  which  passed  Elsinore  was  twentj. 
one  thousand  five  hundred  and  twenty-six,  and  in  1850  there 
were  more  than  seven  thousand  British  ships. 

When  we  entered  the  sound  we  were  presented  with  a  most 
extraordinary  spectacle ;  a  calm  had  prevailed  for  a  few  days, 
and  a  vast  collection  of  ships  and  vessels  of  all  descriptions 
had  gathered  together;  and  now  we  found  between  Elsinore 
and  Copenhagen,  at  a  moderate  estimate,  I  think,  not  less  than 
one  thousand,  all  under  way.  At  one  point  Mr.  Vanderbilt, 
Captain  Eldridge,  and  other  members  of  the  party,  reckoned  two 
hundred  and  fifty-three  sail  in  sight  at  once,  and  all,  I  think, 


110  COPENHAGEN  —  NIGHT    IN    THE    BALTIC. 

within  a  circle  of  two  and  a  half  miles.  Many  of  these  were 
large  ships,  and  several  hoisted  the  stars  and  stripes.  I  think 
the  distance  from  Elsinore  to  the  capital  is  about  twenty-five 
miles ;  and  our  entire  passage  was  one  of  great  beauty.  The 
Swedish  shore  was  very  fine,  and  on  the  Danish  coast  we  noticed 
several  most  enchanting  spots.  Here  and  there  were  old  castles, 
and  several  fine  woods.  It  was  pleasant  to  observe  the  churches, 
all  of  which  looked  in  good  condition.  At  half-past  eleven  we 
stopped  our  steamer  off  Copenhagen,  and  a  party  landed  to 
obtain  supplies  of  milk,  eggs,  butter  and  poultry.  Our  friends 
returned  from  the  city  after  a  delay  of  four  or  five  hours,  but  they 
brought  a  good  account  of  the  place,  and  very  excellent  supplies. 
The  best-made  butter  that  we  saw  on  our  whole  voyage  was  that 
which  came  on  board  at  Copenhagen.  Here,  too,  we  obtained 
fine  fish  from  the  fishing-boats  that  were  near  us  and  returning 
home.     At  quarter  past  four  p.  m.,  ^ve  were  off  for  Russia. 

Sunday,  19th  June,  was  as  J>eautiful  a  day  as  we  could  desire. 
The  Baltic  was  as  smooth  ^is  the  Hudson,  and  we  were  not  sensi- 
ble of  any  motion  («.cepting  the  rapid  progress  of  our  yacht. 
And  now  we  wc"  experiencing  the  novel  pleasure  of  the  long 
days  which  a-«i  known  iu  this  season  in  the  high  latitudes,  and 
the  marv-ilous  stories  of  which  we  had  read  in  our  youth.  It 
certa^'uly  was  strange  to  find  the  night  only  lasting  for  about  two 
gad  a  half  hours.  This  was  the  case  on  the  night  after  leaving 
Copenhagen  ;  and  the  most  of  it  I  passed  on  deck,  in  agreeable 
chat  with  Captain  Eldridge,  whose  fund  of  knowledge,  acquired 
by  extensive  travel  and  nautical  experience,  combined  with  great 
shrewdness  of  observation,  always  afforded  us  entertainment. 
After  passing  the  grounds  of  Copenhagen,  and  taking  our  de- 
parture from  the  light-ship,  we  steered  for  the  light-ship  outside 
Falsterbo  light-ship,  stationed  off  the  reef  of  the  same  name  ;  and, 
on  rounding  this,  we  steered  directly  for  Bornholm.  In  the  evening 
we  passed  Bornholm,  and  I  am  quite  sure  that  no  one  on  board 
the  North  Star  will  ever  forget  the  magnificence  of  the  night. 


MIRAGE —  DAGO    ISLAND.  Ill 

It  certainly  was  the  most  glorious  nocturnal  season  that  I  ever 
witnessed,  —  cloudless,  and  so  light  that  only  one  or  two  stars 
were  visible,  and  the  moon  shone  in  a  milder  lustre  than  we  had 
ever  before  seen.  Bornholm  is  an  island  belonging  to  Denmark, 
about  twenty  miles  in  length,  and  ten  or  twelve  wide.  The  shores 
are  lofty,  and  present  a  bold,  rocky  appearance,  and  all  around 
it  are  dangerous  reefs.  Ronne  is  the  chief  town,  on  the  west 
side.  At  the  north  point  of  the  island  is  a  light-house  built  on  a 
mountain,  called,  I  think,  Steilebergh,  and  our  chart  gives  it  an 
elevation  of  two  hundred  and  eighty  feet  above  the  surface  of 
the  sea.  About  fifteen  miles  east  of  Bornholm  is  a  large  group 
of  rocks,  called  Eartholms ;  on  one  of  these  there  is  a  castle 
called  Christiansoe,  and  in  this  place  is  a  small  but  safe  harbor. 
Our  course  now  lay  direct  for  Oland  Island,  and  we  made  the 
South-head  light-house ;  thence  sailed  for  Gottland  Island,  and, 
coasting  which,  we  made  Ostergarns  Island  and  light-house,  and 
then  sailed  for  Dago  Island,  Our  good  friend.  Dr.  Linsly,  was 
now  a  sad  sufferer.  In  travelling  from  Liverpool  to  London  he 
was  attacked  with  a  pain  in  the  neck ;  it  kept  increasing,  and 
had  now  become  a  severe  old-fashioned  carbuncle,  of  large  size. 
His  sufferings  were  very  painful,  and  it  was  in  vain  that  I  pre- 
scribed the  lancet,  which  he  acknowledged  was  the  regular  and 
proper  thing  in  such  cases  provided ;  but  he  squirmed  at  the 
fitting  remedy,  and,  doctor-like,  refused  to  take  his  own  medicine. 
Soon  after  dinner  our  attention  was  directed  to  nine  large  ships-of- 
war  ;  they  appeared  with  all  sail  set,  and  not  more  than  ten  or 
twelve  miles  off,  but  as  we  approached  they  vanished.  After 
sailing  for  three  hours  and  making  forty  miles,  we  came  upon  the 
Russian  fleet,  consisting  of  nine  ships-of-the-line,  that  were  taking 
their  usual  summer  cruise,  and  then  found  that  we  had  witnessed 
a  remarkable  case  of  mirage, 

June  20,  at  nine  a.  m.,  we  passed  the  light  on  Dago  Island, 
at  the  entrance  to  the  Gulf  of  Finland,  and  before  noon  were  in 
eight  of  Nickmans  Shoal,  the  spot  where  the  British  steamer,  the 
10 


112  CKONSTADT. 

Neptune,  was  lost  in  May  ;  her  masts  and  chimney  are  still 
standing.  We  now  passed  by  off  Revel,  and  had  a  good  view  of 
its  towers  and  shipping,  light-houses  and  innumerable  buoy- 
flags.  We  next  steered  to  pass  Kokskar  light,  and  then  direct 
for  the  north  side  of  Hoogland,  making  Eothscar  light  on 
our  passage.  We  now  headed  for  the  Sommers  light,  and, 
passing  which,  we  sailed  between  the  Neva  tower  and  the 
flags  and  beacons  on  the  Stone  ground,  directing  our  course  for 
the  Tolbeacon  light,  from  whence  about  twelve  miles  carried  us 
to  the  island  upon  which  Cronstadt  is  situated. 

2lsf,  Tuesday.  —  This  is  the  longest  day,  and  the  sun  did  not 
set  till  nearly  ten  o'clock,  and  then  rose  again  before  two,  and 
all  the  interval  was  one  continued  bright  twilight,  so  that  we 
could  read  the  small  type  of  the  Courier  and  Enquirer  and  Herald 
on  deck  with  great  ease.  At  half-past  twelve  a  bright  halo  indi- 
cates the  proximity  of  the  sun  to  the  horizon  during  his  absence. 
All  were  on  deck  to  witness  the  sun  rise,  and  I  do  not  think  that 
we  shall  soon  forget  the  novelty  of  twenty-four  hours  of  day-light 
in  one  day.  At  ten  o'clock  we  stopped  opposite  the  guard-ship. 
Ofiicers  came  on  board,  examined  our  passports,  took  a  list  of 
our  names,  objects,  &c.  We  were  then  permitted  to  anchor  ofi" 
Cronstadt,  and  at  eleven  we  were  all  settled  down  off  this  great 
fortress  and  naval  depot.  Here  we  were  again  boarded  by 
officials,  and  after  a  few  moments' explanation  they  retired,  and 
the  captain  went  on  shore  and  made  a  representation  to  the  gov- 
ernor of  our  objects  and  the  character  of  the  excursion.  He  was 
politely  received,  and  orders  were  at  once  given  for  our  landing 
when  we  pleased. 

Cronstadt  is  a  strongly-fortified  garrison,  and  is  the  great  safe- 
guard of  the  metropolis.  The  population  in  the  summer,  when 
all  is  lively  in  the  docks  and  navy -yard,  is  about  thirty  thousand, 
but  in  the  winter  not  more  than  twelve  thousand.  This  is  the  great 
depot  of  the  northern  fleet  of  the  empire.  In  the  dock  appro- 
priated to  the  ships-of-war  I  should  think  forty  might  be  accommo- 


FORTIFICATIONS  —  DOCKS  —  SHIPPING.  113 

dated  ,  and  when  we  arrived  there  were  twelve  ships-of-the-line  all 
uodergoing  repairs  and  receiving  outfit,  while  in  the  river,  directly 
around  the  North  Star,  were  several  noble  steamers  belonging  to 
the  government,  and  we  at  once  recognized  the  Kamtschatka, 
built  for  the  Czar  in  New  York  a  few  years  ago.  An  immense 
harbor  for  merchantmen  attracted  our  notice.  It  will  receive,  I 
should  think,  seven  or  eight  hundred,  and  certainly  not  less  than 
five  hundred  were  in  it  during  our  visit ;  among  these  were  sev- 
eral of  our  own  country.  I  noticed  the  PeterhofF,  of  Boston,  the 
Sewell,  of  the  same  port,  and  other  eastern  ships.  The  fortifica- 
tions are  of  vast  strength,  and  it  seems  as  if  no  ship  could  pass 
the  rocky  islet  and  its  auxiliary  forts  with  safety,  if  its  passage 
was  disputed.  The  water  is  quite  shallow,  and  the  law  is  ex- 
ceedingly severe  against  placing  any  obstruction  in  the  access  to 
the  Neva.  No  ballast  or  waste  is  allowed  to  be  thrown  over- 
board off  the  town.  We  found  the  town  without  any  particular 
charm ;  but  the  arsenal,  and  navy-yard,  with  its  ships,  impressed 
us  most  favorably.  The  navy  is  as  fine-looking  as  could  be 
desired,  and  no  American  would  feel  mortified  if  he  saw  such 
vessels  carrying  the  banner  of  his  country.  As  we  lay  at  anchor, 
we  were  much  gratified  to  watch  the  incessant  transit  of  steam 
and  tow  boats  up  and  down  from  St.  Petersburg  to  Cronstadt. 
The  scene  Avas  one  of  great  interest.  I  differ  entirely  from  the 
guide-books  as  to  the  beauty  of  the  shore  on  the  passage  to  the 
capital ;  so  far  from  being  tame,  I  regard  the  prospect  off  to  the 
right  as  very  fine.  From  the  deck  of  the  North  Star  I  saw  dis- 
tinctly the  rays  of  the  setting  sun  play  on  the  dome  of  the 
churches  and  the  golden  spire  of  the  admiralty,  although  we 
were  at  a  distance  of  about  eighteen  miles. 

Our  friends  visited,  in  Cronstadt,  the  Marine  Cadet  Building, 
and  the  Naval  Hospital.  These  are  very  spacious  edifices,  and 
are  both  conducted  admirably.  They  are  under  the  eye  of  the 
emperor,  who  frequently  drops  in  to  make  an  unexpected  visita- 
tion.    The  hospital  is  regarded  as  a  model  institution.      The 


114  PETERHOFP. 

streets  are  so  wide,  and  the  people  in  them  so  few  and  far 
between,  that  we  instantly  felt  that  the  place  looked  solitary.  It 
was  here  that  we  learned  that  the  cholera  was  in  St.  Petersburg, 
and  that  not  a  few  cases  existed  in  Cronstadt.  And  here  I  may 
observe,  that,  for  a  day  before  our  arrival,  and  all  the  next  day, 
there  was  scarcely  a  person  on  board  our  ship  who  had  not,  in 
some  degree,  the  premonitory  symptoms  of  this  awful  scourge  of 
the  nations. 

Our  friends  now  divided  into  parties.  Some  took  a  steamer 
to  Oranienbaum,  —  a  little  town,  near  to  Peterhoff,  —  to  which 
place  they  proceeded  by  droskys,  the  ride  being  one  of  about  five 
miles. 

Mr.  Vanderbilt  chartered  a  small  steamer,  and  his  family  went 
direct  to  Peterhoff,  and  he  remained  on  board.  We  landed  at 
the  emperor's  wharf,  at  which  we  found  the  royal  yacht  lying, 
with  her  steam  up.  She  was  a  very  splendid  boat,  of  fine  model, 
and  as  gay  as  blue  paint  and  gilt  ornament  could  make  her. 
Her  bow  was  very  fine,  and  adorned  with  a  golden  eagle  and  an 
imperial  crown.  The  sentries  were  about  to  dispute  our  landing 
at  this  place,  when  one  of  the  officers,  who  had  visited  the  yacht 
the  day  before,  stepped  up,  ordered  us  to  land,  and  politely 
assisted  the  ladies,  and  then  gave  us  direction  to  the  hotel  at 
Peterhoff.  Peterhofi"  is  the  summer  residence  of  the  Russian 
court ;  and  I  do  not  wonder  that  each  successive  emperor  makes 
it  his  favorite  abode.  Our  walk,  for  half  a  mile,  lay  through 
the  most  charming  wood ;  and  the  deep  shades  had  been  most 
evidently  the  care  of  men  who  had  great  taste,  and  well  under- 
stood wood-craft.  How  our  lost  Downing  would  have  rejoiced  in 
this  place  !  We  passed  by  noble  oaks,  and  wanted  to  stop  and 
admire  them  at  once,  without  waiting  for  a  regular  survey  of 
the  place ;  and  perhaps  it  was  an  inward  premonition  that  we 
were  on  what  Russians  regard  as  holy  ground,  for  in  a  short 
time  we  found  that  one  or  two  of  these  glorious  monarchs  of  the 


PETERHOFF RESIDENCE    OF    PETER    THE    GREAT.    115 

wood  were  planted  by  the  bands  of  that  wonderful  man  Peter 
the  Great. 

On  getting  out  of  the  wood,  we  entered  a  village  of  great 
beauty  and  elegance,  and  soon  found  ourselves  comfortably 
ensconced  in  a  hotel  known  as  Vauxhall,  and  which  made  quite 
an  appearance.  The  first  thing  was  to  obtain  rooms,  and  this  is 
the  most  important  thing  in  a  Russian  tavern.  The  rooms  were 
most  exquisitely  neat, —  cleanliness  itself;  the  furniture  good, 
but  scarce ;  beds  all  single ;  and  the  charge  was  made  for  beds 
rather  than  rooms.  A  sofa,  fitted  up  with  sheets,  paid  as  well  as 
a  bed.  After  disposing  of  our  entire  party,  the  next  thing  was 
to  get  a  lunch ;  and  this  was  done  very  satisfactorily,  as  we  were 
all  hungry.  The  provisions  were  excellent,  and,  as  we  found 
everywhere  in  Russia,  entirely  in  the  style  of  the  French  cuisine. 

After  our  refreshment,  we  started  on  a  tour  of  inspection.  I 
have  visited  most  of  the  great  palaces  of  England  and  France, 
and  other  countries  in  Europe,  but  I  have  seen  no  locality  for  a 
palace  that  pleases  me  more  than  Peterhofi",  —  at  least,  for  a 
residence  in  summer.  Its  position  is  good ;  it  is  at  the  mouth 
of  the  Neva,  and  commands  a  fine  view  of  Cronstadt,  from  which 
it  is,  perhaps,  ten  miles  distant.  Our  first  sight  was  the  resi- 
dence of  Peter  the  Great;  it  is  not  far  removed  from  the  old 
palace.  Marly  is  beautifully  surrounded  by  trees,  and  the  house 
is  quite  small,  and  not  very  unlike  a  Dutch  farm-house.  Its 
interior  is  cpiite  like  some  old  houses  that  I  remember  on  the 
North  river.  In  this  snuggery  Peter  died.  We  saw  the  bed  on 
which  he  breathed  his  last ;  the  bed-clothes  are  all  preserved,  as 
when  he  occupied  the  chamber.  On  the  pillow  ar.e  his  caps  and 
night-clothes,  and  his  rohe  de  chambre  lying  on  the  coverlet  of 
the  bed.  Nothing  can  be  more  simple  than  all  the  furniture. 
The  rooms  are  small ;  and  you  can  fancy  that  the  old  people  who 
live  in  the  cottage  have  just  stepped  out.  In  the  room  adjoining 
the  small  chamber  are  his  slippers,  boots  and  sedan-chair,  and 
other  articles  of  personal  dress.  In  a  small  corner-cupboard  are 
10* 


116  PETERHOFF — GARDEXS    OF   THE    PALACE. 

his  camp  equipage,  as  plain  as  tin,  iron  and  brass,  can  be.  The 
walls  of  the  kitchen  are  covered  with  blue  Dutch  tiles.  Nothing 
indicates  that  royalty  ever  resided  here,  but  some  good  Flemish 
pictures,  and  a  few  elegant  Japanese  cabinets  and  beautiful 
stands.  His  escritoire  remains  as  he  last  used  it.  A  long,  nar- 
row saloon,  which  is  really  a  covered  gallery,  has  many  portraits ; 
and  here  the  emperor  used  to  walk,  and  receive  his  visitors.  The 
dining-room  was  a  small  apartment,  with  a  circular  oak  table, 
and  the  panels  of  fine  Japanese  work ;  the  lower  wainscoting  of 
old  black  oak.  From  a  noble  terrace,  paved  with  marble,  Peter 
could  gaze  upon  his  infant  navy,  lying  off  at  Cronstadt.  The 
rocks  of  the  sea-shore  come  quite  up  to  the  balustrades  of  the 
terrace,  and  greatly  add  to  the  scenery.  The  Empress  Elizabeth 
used  to  retire  from  the  pomp  of  royalty  at  this  quiet  spot,  and  is 
said  to  have  cooked  her  own  dinners.  We  then  went  to  visit  the 
cottage  of  Catherine,  the  interior  of  which  is  excessively  rich ; 
and  its  mirrors,  and  wonderful  collection  of  china  and  glass, 
entirely  captivated  our  ladies.  In  no  place  have  I  seen  such 
magnificent  specimens  of  Dresden  porcelain  as  in  this  gem  of  a 
palace ;  and  the  gorgeousness  of  some  of  the  apartments  struck 
us  peculiarly,  after  the  contrast  we  had  witnessed  in  the  humble 
apartments  of  the  great  monarch.  We  now  set  off  in  carriages, 
to  ride  round  the  pleasure-grounds,  and  see  the  charming  villas 
and  gardens  connected  with  the  present  abode  of  royalty.  The 
verdure  of  the  sward,  and  the  foliage  of  the  woods,  and  the 
gay  flowers  of  the  thousand  garden  beds  and  borders,  transcend 
all  that  I  have  known  of  beauty  in  the  country-life  of  any  part 
of  the  world ;  and,  when  we  think  that  all  this  enchanting  display 
has  sprung  up  in  sis  weeks,  —  for  no  longer  ago  it  was  absolute 
winter,  and  thick  snow  covered  the  face  of  the  earth,  —  we  feel 
that  we  are  indeed  in  a  land  of  wonders,  and  it  is  with  an  appre- 
ciating understanding  of  the  mystery  involved,  that  we  exclaim, 
of  the  Great  Author  of  all  that  is  fair  and  excellent,  "  Thou 
renewest  the  face  of  the  earth." 


PETERHOFF — ORXxVMENTS    OF    PALACE-GARDENS.     117 

Tbe  gardens  are  very  extensive, —  the  drives  enclose  thirty 
miles ;  and  fish-ponds,  temples,  villas,  &c.,  are  too  numerous  to 
allude  to  in  detail.  The  bathing-house  of  the  imperial  family  is 
a  most  admirable  building;  and  from  a  chaste  marble  structure 
you  walk  down  into  a  large  sheet  of  water,  surrounded  by  a 
dense  foliage  of  lofty  trees.  The  vast  amount  of  water  at  com- 
mand enables  the  imperial  owner  to  rival,  if  not  surpass,  the 
celebrated  water-works  at  Versailles.  Every  possible  surprise 
awaits  the  wanderer  through  these  grounds.  You  are  standing 
to  admire  some  beautiful  tree ;  the  guide  has  touched  a  spring, 
and  every  branch,  and  every  twig,  and  every  leaf,  is  turned  into 
crystal ;  and  a  fountain  rises  from  that  tree,  which  is  metallic, 
although  the  spectator  supposed  it  to  be  veritably  a  production 
of  the  forest.  While  passing  over  exquisite  bridges  from  island 
to  island,  and  in  boats  drawn  by  stationary  ropes,  we  observed 
the  imperial  gondolas,  which  are  much  used  by  the  royal  family. 

On  one  of  these  islets  we  were  pleased  with  what  seemed  to  be 
a  beautiful  temple ;  and,  ordering  the  driver  to  stop,  we  alighted 
from  the  carriages,  and  soon  reached  it  on  a  movable  platform, 
propelled  by  two  men  drawing  on  ropes  on  either  side  of  it. 
Never  was  there  a  more  blissful  retreat  than  this  peaceful  spot. 
The  temple  was  a  lovely  miniature  villa.  Statuary  decked  the 
outer  niches  of  the  walls.  The  entrance  was  through  a  long 
passage,  roofed  with  ivy ;  a  high  wall  was  covered  with  the 
same,  so  trained  as  to  allow  medallions  and  marble  entaglios  on 
the  wall  to  appear  as  within  a  frame.  Here  was  a  fountain,  in 
the  centre  of  a  large  basin,  flowers  rare  and  fragrant,  and  some 
most  precious  groups  of  statuary,  forming  a  coup  d'ceil  at  once 
fairy-like  and  enchanting.  Opening  on  the  fountain  was  a  fine 
spacious  summer-room,  furnished  with  a  rich  divan  piled  up  with 
cushions.  In  front  of  it  stood  a  small,  low  table,  supporting  a 
reclining  Cleopatra,  the  poisonous  asp  upon  her  arm,  and  her 
left  hand  rested  on  her  heart.  Here,  too,  was  a  beautiful 
mosaic  table.     The  next  room  was  peculiax'ly  tasteful,  and  full 


118  VISIT    OF    GRAND    DUKE    TO    NORTH    STAR. 

of  comfort.  The  table,  writing-desk,  statuary,  all  looked  as 
though  the  most  fastidious  taste  had  directed  the  position  of  each 
object.  The  garden  of  thLi  islet  was  radiant  with  roses,  azaleas, 
fuchsias,  carnations. 

The  palace  is  a  large  building,  painted  yellow,  and  picked  off 
with  white.  It  has  no  very  great  architectural  merits ;  but  the 
chapel,  which  stands  at  one  end,  has  a  gorgeous  dome,  which 
reflects  every  ray  of  light  from  its  gilt  surface.  We  were  shown 
through  the  palace  with  every  attention,  and  were  much  gratified 
with  the  regal  display  of  objects  of  art.  The  malachite,  porce- 
lain and  statuary,  were  exquisitely  beautiful;  and  there  were 
several  good  paintings.  In  one  large  apartment  there  are  more 
than  three  hundred  portraits  of  the  prettiest  girls  in  Russia, 
executed  for  Catherine  II. ;  and  very  pretty  some  of  them  are, 
too,  in  their  national  costumes.  From  the  royal  residence  down 
to  the  bank  of  the  Neva  is  a  series  of  terraces,  and  one  continued 
series  of  waterfalls,  lakes  and  fountains.  The  basins,  Neptunes, 
Tritons  and  cascades,  must  be  seen,  for  no  written  description 
will  do  them  any  justice.  Again  and  again  did  we  drive  round 
this  fairy  spot ;  and  we  left  it  never  again  expecting  to  see  so 
much  that  is  beautiful  in  the  arrangement  of  gardens  and  grounds. 

When  we  returned  to  Vauxhall,  to  dinner,  we  found  Mr. 
Vanderbilt,  and  learned  from  him  that  the  royal  yacht,  which  we 
had  seen  at  the  wharf  with  her  steam  on,  had  made  a  trip  to  the 
North  Star,  and  brought  as  a  visitor  to  him  the  Grand  Duke 
Constantine,  the  second  son  of  the  emperor,  and  the  High  xldmi- 
ral  of  the  Russian  navy ;  and,  on  his  return  to  Peterhoff,  he 
brought  Mr.  Vanderbilt  in  his  yacht,  and  sent  round  one  of  the 
emperor's  carriages,  with  the  royal  livery,  to  take  Mr.  and 
Mrs.  V.  round  the  place.  The  duke  made  quite  a  long  visit  on 
board  the  North  Star,  inspected  every  part  of  the  ship  with  much 
interest,  and  requested  permission  to  have  some  officers  of  the 
topographical  corps  allowed  to  come  on  board,  to  take  drafts  of 
the  ship,  her  cabins,  engines,  &c.     This  was  cheerfully  acceded 


ADMIKAL  GLASSENAPP— EVENING  PRATEK,    119 

to.  These  gentlemen  came,  another  day,  with  their  portfolios, 
and  made  capital  views  of  the  machinery,  &c.  With  the  duke 
was  a  gentleman,  named  Muller,  who  is  on  terms  of  some  inti- 
macy with  him,  and  from  whom  we  continued  to  receive  very 
polite  and  useful  attentions  while  we  remained  in  Russia.  After 
dinner  we  went  to  the  parade-ground,  in  front  of  the  palace,  as 
it  was  expected  that  the  emperor  would  be  present  when  the 
band  performed  their  evening  music.  While  promenading  I  had 
the  pleasure  to  meet  Admiral  Glassenapp,  who  had  visited  our 
yacht  the  day  of  our  arrival,  and  with  whom  I  had  gone  through 
our  steamer.  He  was  very  polite,  gave  me  every  explanation  as 
to  the  troops,  and,  pointing  to  a  window,  told  me  that  the  empe- 
ror was  in  that  room,  and  was  so  engaged  that  he  would  not 
appear  on  the  ground.  He  had  that  day  given  audience  of  leave- 
taking  to  our  minister,  Mr.  Brown,  who  was  recalled  by  the  new 
administration.  Admiral  Glassenapp  is  a  very  intelligent  man, 
about  forty  or  forty-five  years  of  age,  and  has  the  command  of 
the  Naval  Cadets,  who  are  now  in  three  frigates,  lying  off  in  the 
Neva,  just  opposite  the  palace.  The  admiral  speaks  English 
tolerably  well,  and  very  much  reminds  me  of  G'eneral  Totten,  of 
the  United  States'  Engineers,  as  I  remember  him  when  he  resided 
at  Newport.  Just  as  we  were  talking,  the  band  struck  up  a  very 
solemn  air ;  all  hats  were  off  instantly,  and  a  death-like  silence, 
for  a  few  moments,  pervaded  the  vast  assemblage.  It  was  the 
evening  prayer,  and  is  observed  by  the  military  with  great 
solemnity.  I  have  not  often  observed  a  more  devotional  observ- 
ance than  that  which  I  was  so  happy  as  to  witness  on  this  occa- 
sion. In  the  evening  we  were  all  much  fatigued ;  but  our  friend 
Mr.  Muller  insisted  that  I  should  ride  a  mile  or  two,  to  see  the 
new  splendid  Tea  House,  which  has  lately  been  built  for  the  heir 
apparent,  who  has  just  married.  A  pleasant  ride  brought  us  to 
this  most  elegant  establishment.  The  Tea  House  is  a  miniature 
palace.  It  is  a  large,  splendid  mansion,  but  small  for  a  regal 
residence.     Here  everything  surpasses,  in  exquisiteness  of  furni- 


120  TEA    HOUSE. 

ture  and  spiendor,  any  palace  I  have  seen  in  Europe.  The  rooms 
are  quite  of  moderate  dimensions,  but  the  style  of  finish  is  beyond 
my  previous  ideas  of  domestic  architectural  beauty.  The  pic- 
tures, statuary,  hangings,  are  all  as  beautiful  as  the  art  of 
Europe  can  furnish.  The  portraits  of  the  emperor  and  empress, 
Alexander,  and  other  members  of  the  royal  family,  were  in  the 
best  style  of  the  art.  I  shall  never  forget  the  staircases,  the 
bath-rooms,  and  the  library.  The  bed-rooms,  and  every  part  of 
the  establishment,  were  thrown  open  to  our  inspection  ;  and  the 
ladies  who  were  with  us  regarded  this  as  the  great  treat  of  the 
day.  Other  things  we  had  seen  were  of  days  gone  by,  but  this 
was  the  splendor  of  the  present  age ;  and  perhaps  no  palace  in 
the  world  is  superior  to  this  bijou  in  its  completeness  of  arrange- 
ment. The  timepieces  of  this  palace  are  of  vast  value.  The 
gardens  are  fine ;  and  nature  has  done  much  for  the  grounds,  as 
oif  to  the  right  is  a  deep  ravine,  with  fine  walks  and  artificial 
terraces.  Here,  as  at  Peterhofi",  I  noticed  the  best  specimens  of 
gilly-flowers  that  I  ever  saw,  whole  beds  of  white  double-flowers, 
and  some  of  the  deepest  scarlet.  Roses  were  just  beginning* to 
appear ;  but  the  wild  ones  were  in  profusion.  We  were  all 
amused  at  seeing  the  nurse-maids,  on  the  parade-ground,  with 
the  infants  under  their  care.  Some  of  these  servants  had  head- 
dresses which  would  have  been  worth  looking  at  in  Barnum's 
Museum.  We  noticed  about  a  dozen  Cossacks  of  the  Don.  They 
were  stern-looking  men,  of  large  proportions,  with  head-dress  of 
a  peculiar  cast.  They  carried  long  spears.  Admiral  Glassenapp 
informed  me  that  a  few  of  the  Cossacks  and  Circassians  are 
always  near  the  person  of  the  Czar,  and  that  it  is  intended  as  a 
compliment  to  these  valuable  portions  of  the  army. 


CHAPTER    VIII. 

SMALL  STEAMER DRESS  OF  OFFICERS VIEW  OF  ST.    PETERSHJEO QUEER 

PROCESSION HOTELS POLITENESS MR.  ROPES,  U.  S.  CONSUL SUM- 
MER ISLANDS PETER  THE  GREAT'S  FIRST  HOUSE THE  CITY ADMI- 
RALTY  STATUE    OF    PETER NEFFSKY    PERSPECTIVE SERFS VIEW    OF 

CITY  BY  MOONLIGHT WINTER  PALACE  AND  ITS  DEPARTMENTS RE- 
GALIA  THE    HERMITAGE PAINTINGS     OF     DIFFERENT     SCHOOLS THE 

LOGGIE PETER'S    MUSEUM PRECIOUS    STONES HOROLOGE WREATHS 

AND  LAURELS  FROM  CHERSONESUS MARBLE  PALACE ALEXANDER  PIL- 
LAR    MR.     EVANS  MONASTERY     OF    ALEXANDER    NEFFSKY ENGLISH 

CHURCH. —  KESAN     CATHEDRAL ITS      INTERIOR     AND     SERVICE 13AA0 

CHURCH. 

We  left  Peterhoff  in  the  morning  boat  for  St.  Petersburg,  but 
several  of  the  party  retained  their  rooms,  and  went  to  and  fro 
daily ;  but  I  felt  anxious  to  see  as  much  as  possible  of  the  city 
in  our  brief  stay,  and  therefore  reluctantly  left  what  I  shall  ever 
regard  as  one  of  the  most  attragtive  spots  I  ever  visited.  The 
charms  of  Peterhoff  are  not  its  palace  and  its  imperial  residents, 
but  the  glorious  exhibition  which  is  laid  open  to  the  admirer  of 
nature. 

On  getting  on  board  the  small  steamer,  we  found  a  crowded 
deck.  Very  many  of  the  passengers  were  officers  ;  they  all  wore 
the  dark  gray  or  blue  cloak  reaching  to  the  very  heels,  and  the 
standing  collar  fitting  close  up  to  the- ears.  This,  in  such  hot 
weather  as  we  were  then  enduring,  struck  me  as  remarkable ; 
but  I  afterwards  learned  that,  such  is  the  strictness  observed  in 
the  army  inspection,  that  not  a  spot  or  particle  of  dust  is  over- 
looked; and  that,  to  protect  t!ie  person,  this  immense  cloak  is 
part  and  parcel  of  every  K,us3.'an  officer.     Most  surely,  all  I  saw 


122  QUEER    PBOCESSION. 

wore  them,  A  very  queer  appearance,  too,  do  these  cloaks  pre- 
sent upon  the  shoulders  of  their  occupants,  because  the  immense 
epaulettes  extend  from  the  shoulders,  and  give  a  square  form  to 
the  upper  part  of  the  cloak.  I  saw  several  fine-looking  boys, 
from  ten  to  fifteen  or  sixteen  years  of  age,  who  were  military 
cadets ;  they  all  wore  the  same  order  of  cloaks,  and  some  of  the 
little  fellows,  who  had  green  uniforms,  were  made  to  look  ridicu- 
lous by  large  cocked  hats. 

The  appearance  of  the  great  city  excited  our  interest,  and  we 
were  all  gazing  at  its  golden  domes  and  minarets,  so  entirely 
unlike  any  city  we  had  yet  seen.  The  public  buildings  and  the 
English  quay  are  in  themselves  astonishing  structures,  and  pro- 
duce a  most  favorable  impression  on  the  voyager  before  he  lands. 
We  had  no  difficulty  at  the  custom-house ;  our  permits  from 
the  governor  of  Croustadt  seemed  an  "  open  sesame  "  in  our 
case,  and  we  and  our  baggage  passed  without  any  trouble  or 
delay.  I  do  wish  that  our  friends  could  have  seen  that  North 
Star  party  on  the  noble  quay  !  There  we  were,  as  devoid  of 
all  ability  to  talk  Russian  as  the  serf  drosky-drivers  were  to 
talk  English.  Our  friend,  Mr.  Muller,  was  soon  at  our  elbow, 
and  a  little  army  of  droskys  was  laid  under  conscription.  I 
think  the  procession  that  left  that  quay  was  as  ludicrous  as  any 
in  which  I  ever  had  been  called  to  figure.  My  luck  secured  me 
an  elegant  post-chaise,  and  a  glass  coach  conveyed  Mr.  and  Mrs. 
Vanderbilt ;  but  the  rest  of  the  party  were  bestowed  upon  the 
great  vehicle  of  the  land,  —  the  ever-present  drosky.  Such 
laughing  as  we  had,  as  we  galloped  over  the  great  bridge,  at  our 
friends,  sitting  side-ways  and  other  ways  on  those  hard  benches, 
covered  with  blue  cloth,  and  resting  upon  apologies  for  springs, 
and  running  on  four  wheels!  An  immense  baggage-wagon,  filled 
with  our  luggage,  brought  up  the  rear,  and  really  looked  as  if 
we  were  about  to  become  actual  settlers,  instead  of  mere  transient' 
sojourners.  We  first  drove  to  the  Hotel  des  Princes,  to  which 
we  had  been  strongly  advised.    Here  we  were  most  politely 


ST.    PETERSBURG   HOTELS.  123 

received  by  a  young  gentleman,  who  informed  us  that  the  hotel 
was  too  full  to  receive  so  large  a  party ;  but  he  insisted  on  our 
all  coming  in  till  some  of  the  gentlemen  could  make  suitable 
arrangements.  ^\'"e  were  shown  into  a  superb  parlor,  and  imme- 
diately the  waiters  spread  a  table,  and  placed  on  it  bread,  butter, 
anchovies,  caviare,  claret,  sherry,  brandy,  ice,  and  cakes  in. 
variety.  This  excellent  lunch  was  very  seasonable,  as  it  was  now 
twelve  o'clock,  and  the  day  intensely  hot, —  quite  equal  to  our 
usual  summer  heat  in  New  York.  Soon  after  we  had  refreshed 
ourselves,  our  friend  returned,  and  we  found  that  everything  was 
prepared  for  our  reception  at  Demmouth's,  by  the  side  of  the 
Moika  canal.  On  calling  for  our  bill,  the  gentleman  who  had 
first  received  us  declined  making  any  charge,  and  we  found  it 
impossible  to  put  our  lunch  to  any  other  account  than  the  polite 
attention  of  the  French  proprietor,  Monsieur  Auguste.  Three 
gentlemen  and  their  ladies  remained  at  this  hotel,  and  had  as 
elegant  accommodations  as  could  be  found,  I  think,  in  Europe. 
We  were  all  of  us  soon  comfortably  domiciled  at  our  quarters; 
and  I  may  say  that  I  think  the  hotels  of  St.  Petersburg  have 
been  slandered  as  to  the  cleanliness  of  their  apartments.  Most 
certainly,  at  neither  of  the  two  establishments  we  tried  had  we 
any  reason  to  complain,  but  rather  were  disposed  to  think  them 
exceedingly  comfortable. 

It  would  be  wrong  not  to  speak  of  the  kindness  which  we  met 
from  our  consul,  Mr.  Kopes,  and  his  excellent  partner  and 
brother-in-law,  Mr.  Prince.  Of  these  gentlemen  I  shall  have 
more  to  say.  Mr.  Brown,  the  United  States  minister,  left 
Petersburg  the  day  we  arrived ;  but  he  had,  I  believe,  a  short 
interview  with  Mr.  Yanderbilt,  as  he  was  on  the  eve  of  depart- 
ure. It  was  now  that  we  found  the  kind  services  of  Mr.  Mul- 
ler  of  great  value,  and  he  was  indefatigable  in  his  efforts  to  cid 
our  movements  in  and  around  the  city. 

Soon  after  taking  possession  of  our  hotel,  we  ordered  car- 
riages, and,  after  riding  through  the  great  streets  of  this  won- 
11 


124  THE   SUMMEK   ISLANDS. 

derful  metropolis  of  the  north,  we  went  to  see  the  Summer 
Islands.  If  the  map  is  consulted,  it  will  show  that  in  the  delta 
of  the  Neva  there  are  many  small  islands.  Some  of  these  are 
still  desert  spots,  or  covered  with  brushwood  and  small  trees, 
affording  covert  to  wolves  and  bears ;  but  several  of  the  islets 
near  to  the  city  have  been  reclaimed  and  placed  under  the  high- 
est class  of  cultivation,  and,  by  the  aid  of  bridges,  are  united. 
These  islands  are  the  favorite  resort  of  the  nobility  and  wealthy 
men  of  St.  Petersburg,  and  innumerable  houses  and  villas  have 
sprung  up.  Our  ride  was  one  of  at  least  ten  miles,  and  we 
passed  the  splendid  palace  of  Count  Orloff,  on  the  river  bank, 
and  through  a  village  of  cottages  which  much  resembled  the 
rural  abodes  of  Switzerland.  Yella";in  Island  is  a  charminpr 
spot,  and  here  is  the  emperor's  datscha,  a  very  comfortable-look- 
ing country-house.  A  prettier  view  than  is  enjoyed  from  this 
spot  cannot  be  desired.  The  eye  rests  with  pleasure  on  the  gay 
parterres  of  extensive  and  well-cultivated  gardens,  on  the  noble 
river,  and  on  the  golden  spires,  domes  and  minarets,  of  the  city 
and  its  innumerable  palatial  buildings.  The  avenues  of  these 
wooded  islands  are  most  extraordinary  pathways,  and  are  cut 
through  dense  forests  of  birch  and  pine  wood.  Some  of  the 
private  houses  are  models  of  comfort  and  coseyness,  and  I  fancied 
that  enjoyment  and  happiness  were  no  strangers  in  this  delight- 
ful region.  Many  of  the  buildings  were  apparently  mere  pine- 
board  erections,  and  of  a  very  extemporaneous  character.  I 
understand  that  every  one  who  has  the  means  is  in  the  habit  of 
migrating  to  these  truly  elysian  fields  and  charming  islands  in 
the  summer  months.  The  small  retail  dealers  have  their  little 
cottages,  and  visit  their  families  on  Sundays  and  holidays.  The 
constant  improvements  going  on  in  this  city  must  be  made  dur- 
ing the  brief  summer,  and  the  dust  and  dirt,  combined  with 
occasional  excessive  heat,  afford  sufficient  inducf.ment  to  flit,  as 
the  Scotch  call  a  removal,  from  town  to  country. 

The  estates  of  the  Counts  Nesselrode  and  Stri>gonoff  are  very 


PETER   THE    GEEAT'S  FIRST  HOUSE.  125 

i 

extensive,  and  the  houses  and  parks  are  rich  in  statuary. 
Everything  I  saw  would  have  been  a  source  of  admiration  on  the 
banks  of  the  Seine,  or  the  shores  of  the  Arno,  and  was  very 
far  beyond  anything  I  expected  to  meet  on  the  Neva.  I  ought 
to  say  that  nearly  all  the  habitats  of  any  mark  on  these  islands 
had  fine  green  and  hot  houses  attached.  We  were  conducted  to 
a  spacious  establishment,  where  the  gardens  were  large,  and  the 
orchestra  and  ball-room  opened  upon  them.  This  place  had  a. 
mineral  spring.  We  had  an  excellent  dinner  furnished  at  a 
short  notice,  but  there  did  not  seem  to  be  much  company  about. 
Later  in  the  evening,  no  doubt,  we  should  have  seen  more  per- 
sons. The  price  of  dinner  was  fourteen  rubles  for  thirteen  per- 
sons, inclusive  of  good  claret.  Our  earliest  visit  in  the  city  was 
made  to  the  original  cottage  residence  of  its  founder.  This  is  a 
spot  I  had  longed  to  see.  I  wanted  to  sit  down  in  a  room  where 
a  man  had  dwelt,  and  thought,  and  acted,  who  had  done  so 
much  to  leave  his  mark  upon  the  age  in  which  he  lived.  It  is  a 
very  small  affair,  and  contains  but  three  apartments.  The  fur- 
thest one  was  his  bedroom,  the  next  his  chapel,  and  one  off  to 
the  right  was  his  room  for  company.  We  saw  many  articles 
that  belonged  to  the  great  man,  kept  under  glass  cases;  and  pic- 
tures, maps,  plans  and  charts,  are  on  the  walls,  as  when  he 
resided  here.  One  map  of  the  city  is  of  his  own  draft.  The 
ehapel  is  occupied  by  a  priest,  and  daily  service  is  observed ;  it 
was  going  on  when  we  visited  it,  and  the  audience  consisted  of 
some  six  or  eight  woful-looking  devotees,  all  upon  their  knees, 
or  with  their  foreheads  on  the  ground.  Beads  and  trinkets  were 
offered  for  sale  to  us,  and  all  round  the  door  we  were  beset  with 
monks  and  nuns  from  the  country,  as  we  were  told,  begging  for 
their  conventual  institutions ;  and  a  sad,  dirty-looking  set  they 
were.  The  entire  building,  which  was  originally  a  log  cottage, 
has  been  surrounded  with  a  plank  covering,  by  the  order  of  the 
late  Emperor  Alexander.  Here,  too,  we  saw  a  large  boat  which 
Peter  constructed,  I  suppose,  after  his  initiation  into  boat  and 


126  THE   CITY  —  ADMIRALTY. 

stip-build]  ng  in  Holland.  Not  far  from  this  spot  we  saw  the 
first  church  which  was  erected  in  St.  Petersburg. 

The  city  is  principally  situated  on  the  south  bank  of  the  Neva, 
and  comprehends  several  islands ;  and,  as  much  of  it  was  origin- 
ally a  mere  marsh,  it  has  had  to  undergo  a  thorough  drainage, 
which  has  rendered  large  canals  indispensable.  These  are  con- 
structed of  the  most  massive  materials,  and  have  a  fine  appear- 
ance. The  date  of  the  city  is  from  1703 ;  and  in  one  century 
and  a  half  all  this  magnificent  metropolis  has  been  called  into 
existence  by  a  people  supposed  to  be  semi-barbarous ;  and  yet  it 
transcends,  in  many  respects,  every  other  capital  of  Europe.  I 
quite  agree  with  the  lamented  Stephens,  who  stated  in  his  trav- 
els, "  I  do  not  believe  that  Rome,  when  Adrian  reared  the  mighty 
Colosseum,  and  the  Palace  of  the  Caesars  covered  the  Capitoline 
Hill,  exhibited  such  a  range  of  noble  structures  as  now  exists  in 
the  Admiralty  Quarter."  The  admiralty  itself  is  the  central 
point,  on  one  side  fronting  the  Neva,  and  on  the  other  a  large 
open  square,  and  has  a  facade  of  marble,  with  ranges  of  col- 
umns a  quarter  of  a  mile  in  length.  A  beautiful  golden  spire 
shoots  up  from  the  centre,  towering  above  every  other  object, 
and  seen  from  every  part  of  the  city  glittering  in  the  sun ;  and 
three  principal  streets,  each  two  miles  in  length,  radiate  from  this 
point.  In  front  is  a  range  of  Boulevards,  ornamented  with  trees, 
and  an  open  square,  at  one  extremity  of  which  stands  the  great 
church  of  St.  Isaac.  This  square  extends  to  a  great  distance, 
and  on  it  are  the  Winter  Palace,  Hermitage,  and  other  splendid 
erections. 

In  walking  along  this  square,  the  admiralty  is  ofi"  to  the  left. 
The  Neva  runs  in  front  of  the  grand  facade.  Here,  too,  near 
by  the  Isaac  church,  is  the  far-famed  statue  of  Peter  the  Great. 
This  is  a  glorious  creation,  and  is  regarded  as  the  chef-d'oeuvre 
of  Falconet. 

The.  pedestal  is  a  natural  block  of  granite,  just  as  taken  from 
the  quarry.     Peter  is  seated  on  horseback  ;  one  hand  is  pointing 


STATUE    OF   PETER   THE   (JREAT.  129 

significantly,  the  horse  paws  the  air  with  his  fore-legs,  whilst  the 
hinder  are  trampling  upon  a  serpent.  The  weight  of  the  statue 
is  poised  on  the  tail  of  the  horse,  which  is  fastened  on  the  stone. 
The  inscription  on  the  pedestal  is, 

PETRO    PRIMO, 
CATHERINA    SECUNDA. 

I  thought  with  pride  of  our  own  Mills,  who  has  succeeded  so 
nobly  in  his  equestrian  statue  of  Jackson,  and  in  which  the  horse 
is  self-poised. 

The  great  street  of  the  city  —  the  Broadway  —  is  the  Neffsky 
Perspective,  named  after  Alexander  Neffsky,  the  patron  saint  of 
St.  Petersburg.  I  think  this  and  the  other  two  streets,  radi- 
ating from  the  admiralty,  are  two  hundred  feet  wide.  The  chan- 
nel-gutter is  in  the  middle  of  the  street,  and  on  each  side  of  it 
are  wooden  pavements  broad  enough  to  allow  two  carriages  or 
wagons  to  cross  each  other.  The  pavements  are  wide  and  well 
made.  Many  of  the  shops  and  stores  on  this  Perspective  are 
fine,  and  have  very  much  the  appearance  of  similar  establish- 
ments in  New  York,  London  or  Paris. 

I  know  not  how  it  is,  but  I  never  before  felt  so  solitary  in  a 
large  city.  There  are  few  persons  in  the  streets,  and  certainly 
seven  out  of  ten  we  meet  are  serfs ;  and  all  the  drosky-drivera 
are  wrapped  up  in  long,  blue  coarse  cloth  coats  down  to  their 
heels,  and  the  waist  tied  with  a  red  scarf,  leather  thong,  or  rope. 
The  hat  is  a  queer-looking  affair,  very  low-crowned  and  bell- 
shaped.  I  have  never  seen  so  many  lifeless,  inanimate  faces  as 
in  Russia.  The  countenance  is  sallow,  eyes  sunken,  and  beards 
are  mostly  yellow.  In  these  great  streets,  and  over  the  vast 
admiralty-square,  amid  the  palaces  and  vast  buildings,  I  rambled 
by  moonlight,  and  was  never  weary  while  watching  the  queen 
of  heaven  climbing  over  dome,  minaret  and  facade.  It  was  then 
that  I  realized  the  magnitude  of  this  strange  city,  and  felt  that 
11* 


130  WINTER  PAIiACE   AND    ITS   DEPARTMENTS. 

it  had  now  an  air  of  antiquity  and  grandeur  that  no  other  city 
I  have  seen  can  boast.  By  the  light  of  the  moon  I  could  not 
distinguish  the  brick  plaster  and  stucco  from  granite  or  marble ; 
but  by  the  light  of  day  the  illusion  was  dispelled. 

Our  visit  to  the  Winter  Palace  had  been  arranged  by  the  kind- 
ness of  Mr.  MuUer,  and  we  found  free  admission  to  every  portion 
of  this  regal  abode.  This  building  presents  a  marble  front  upon 
the  Neva  of  nearly  eight  hundred  feet,  and  the  rear,  which  lies 
upon  the  immense  square,  is  of  plaster,  but  richly  adorned.  Its 
form  is  a  square.  On  entrance,  we  all  had  to  deposit  great- 
coats, as  only  dress-coats  are  tolerated  in  the  precincts  of  im- 
perial majesty.  The  grand  staircase  is  one  of  wonderful  beauty, 
and  we  happened  to  see  the  great  carpet  put  upon  it,  as  the  royal 
family  were  to  visit  the  palace  the  next  day.  This  wonderful 
mansion  was  destroyed  by  fire  December  29,  1837,  and  was  re- 
built in  less  than  two  years.  I  think  no  capital  in  Europe  can 
boast  of  such  a  royal  residence.  It  is  vain  to  attempt  a  descrip- 
tion of  so  much  splendoi*  as  I  saw ;  for  one  room  after  another, 
till  we  had  gone  through  a  hundred,  seemed  to  surpass  in  magnifi- 
cence all  its  predecessors.  The  St.  George's  Hall  is  the  most 
beautiful  apartment,  I  suppose,  in  the  world ;  certainly  it  is  supe- 
rior to  any  saloon  at  Versailles.  Imagine  a  room  one  hundred 
and  forty  feet  by  sixty ;  on  either  side  are  twenty  columns  of 
porphyry,  the  bases  and  capitals  most  richly  gilt.  These  pillars 
are  the  support  not  only  of  the  ceiling,  but  of  a  noble  gallery,  the 
balustrade  of  which  is  of  the  most  highly  elaborate  workman- 
ship. The  Salle  Blanche,  where  the  great  gala  fetes  are  held,  is 
entirely  decorated  with  white  ornaments,  profusely  adorned  with 
the  richest  gildings.  In  passing  from  the  first  room  to  this  last, 
we  went  through  a  gallery  of  national  portraits ;  and  among  the 
heroes  of  the  empire  we  were  much  interested  with  the  like- 
nesses of  Barclay  de  Tolly  and  England's  Iron  Duke,  Suwarrow, 
and  Kutuzofi",  The  empress'  state  drawing-room  was  thought 
Dy  our  ladies  to  be  the  gem  of  the  palace ;  and  certainly  its 


REUALIA THE  HERMITAGE.  131 

pictures,  v'j'sc?,  &c.,  arc  wondrous.  It  is  gilt  from  floor  to  ceil- 
ing, except  fi  space  of  two  feot  from  tlio  floor,  which  is  a  deep 
French  blue.  The  hangings  and  furniture  ul  ail  the  royal  apart- 
ments proper  entirely  surpass  the  splendor  of  Buckingham 
Palace,  Windsor,  and  the  Tuilleries. 

The  roonr  containing  the  diamonds  and  regalia  excited  the 
interest  of  all  in  our  party ;  and  on  no  consideration  would  we 
have  been  deprived  of  the  pleasure  of  seeing  this  unrivalled  col- 
lection of  treasures.  Rubies,  diamonds,  emeralds,  and  pearls,  — 
why,  the  room  was  full  of  them.  The  imperial  crown  pleased 
me  better  than  any  diadem  I  have  seen  in  the  regalia  of  other 
kingdoms.  It  is  surmounted  with  a  wreath  of  oak-leaves  formed 
of  diamonds,  —  and  not  small  ones,  — and  in  the  sceptre  is  one 
supposed  to  be  the  largest  in  the  world.  Its  history  is  remark- 
able. It  was  purchased  by  Catherine  II.,  from  a  Greek  slave, 
and  for  the  small  amount  of  four  hundred  and  fifty  thousand 
rubles,  to  which  was  added  a  pension  for  life.  The  time  occu- 
pied by  an  examination  of  this  palace  was  double  what  I  have 
ever  seen  devoted  to  any  other.  The  servants  who  escorted  us 
all  wore  the  imperial  liveries,  and  were  tall,  iine-looking  men. 
The  great  dining-room  is  a  very  noble  saloon ;  and  here  and  in 
the  next  room  we  saw  the  immense  collection  of  gold  plate,  in 
which  the  Czar  surpasses  all  his  royal  brethren  in  Europe. 

The  Hermitage  was  the  favorite  resort  of  the  great  Catherine, 
and  it  is  united  to  the  Winter  Palace  by  a  covered  gallery,  or, 
rather,  I  think,  by  several.  This  building  received  so  much 
reconstruction  when  the  Winter  Palace  was  rebuilt,  that  it  is 
essentially  a  new  edifice.  The  portico  of  this  building  is  really 
glorious.  It  is  supported  by  ten  colossal  statues,  of  Finland 
granite,  each  eighteen  feet  high.  The  feet  of  these  are 
twenty-five  inches  in  length.  Some  of  our  party  thought  them 
the  true  lions  of  St.  Petersburg.  They  are  wonderful,  no  doubt. 
Opposite  to  this  building  is  the  pala  --e  where  the  Emperor  Paul 
met  with  his  tragical  end. 


132  PAINTINGS,    OF   DIFFERENT    SCHOOLS. 

I  regard  the  Hermitage  as  the  great  affair  of  St.  Petersburg, 
and  ccrtainlj  prefer  it,  as  a  museum  of  paintings  and  works  of 
art,  to  the  Louvre.  I  believe  there  are  in  this  building  nearly 
three  thousand  paintings ;  and  the  galleries  embrace  the  works 
of  all  the  great  masters,  and  especially  some  of  the  works  of 
Murillo,  Snyders,  Potter,  and  furnish  the  most  interesting  assem- 
blage of  Flemish  pictures  in  the  world ;  at  least,  it  is  a  rival  to 
the  galleries  of  the  Hague,  Amsterdam,  and  Antwerp.  I  con- 
fess that  the  Dutch  school  is  my  passion;  and  here  are  Ostades, 
Boths,  Neefs,  Gerard  Duows,  Denners,  Teniers,  Wouvermans,  and 
Mieris,  to  occupy  a  month  in  patient  and  delightful  study.  The 
pictures  of  game,  and  fruit  and  flowers,  are  very  beautiful.  All 
Europe  has  been  ransacked,  and  no  money  has  been  spared,  in 
obtaining  these  gems  of  art.  It  may  be  fancied  that  nothing 
can  be  much  richer,  when  I  state  that  the  collections  of  Crozat, 
of  Paris,  Tranchini,  of  Geneva,  Baudoin,  of  Paris,  Sir  Robert 
Walpole,  the  Prince  of  Conde,  the  galleries  of  Houghton,  Prince 
Guistiniani's,  Hope's,  of  Amsterdam,  and  the  Malmaison  and  Coes- 
velts,  are  all  concentred  here.  One  excellence  of  this  noble 
establishment  consists  in  its  order  and  arrangement.  Every 
school  and  master  is  in  its  proper  apartment ;  and  no  gallery  in 
the  world  has  been  so  admirably  arranged,  or  placed  in  such 
superbly-finished  apartments.  In  all  the  rooms  of  this  building, 
as  well  as  in  the  Winter  Palace,  the  eye  is  charmed  with  vases 
and  candelabra  of  jasper,  porphyry  and  malachite,  that  can  be 
seen  nowhere  else  but  in  this  wondrous  capital. 

The  room  devoted  to  Rembrandt  has  more  than  forty  of  his 
pictures,  and  some  of  them  are  his  best.  I  would  mention  "  The 
Prodigal's  Return,"  "  Old  Woman  and  her  Book,"  and  "The 
Monk  and  his  Pupil,"  and  "Abraham  Sacrificing  Isaac,"  as 
peculiarly  fine.  Murillo's  St.  Mark  is  a  fine  production.  We 
all  stopped  in  admiration  at  two  very  small  pictures,  of  aged 
women,  by  Denner.  They  are  the  most  life-like  pictures  I  ever 
gazed  upon,  not  excepting  the  Raphael  portraits  in  Florence. 


PAINTINGS,   OP    DIFFERENT    SCHOOLS.  133 

Tlie  room  which  contains  the  Wouvermans  pictures  can  never 
be  forgotten  by  any  one  who  has  an  eye  for  the  beautiful.  One, 
"  The  Interior  of  a  Stable,"  is  capital ;  but  some  of  this  painter's 
pieces  here  are  poor  enough ;  and  I  cannot  feel  that  the  Salvator 
Rosas  and  Leonardo  da  Vincis,  are  all  of  genuine  parentage. 
One  Holy  Family,  by  this  last  artist,  in  which  I  observed  St. 
Catherine  is  introduced  in  the  place  of  Zecharias,  is  undeniably 
his,  and  is  a  great  picture. 

A  portrait  of  Clement  IX.,  by  Carlo  Maratti,  is  one  of  the 
most  impressive  portraits  ever  placed  on  canvas.  Here  are  a 
large  number  of  small  cabinet  pictures,  which  I  could  stand  and 
gaze  at  and  study  for  hours.  I  would  rather  look  at  one  good 
picture  for  an  hour,  and  correct  my  taste  by  its  careful  contem- 
plation, than  look  at  a  hundred  gairish  daubs,  which  are  called 
fine  paintings  by  those  who  judge  a  picture  by  its  dimensions  and 
the  quantity  of  bright  coloring.  I  think  I  have  seen  finer  pic- 
tures by  Murillo,  in  some  English  galleries,  and  in  Paris,  than 
most  of  those  here  ascribed  to  the  great  Spaniard.  An  unfin- 
ished Holy  Family,  by  Raphael,  did  not  much  please  me ;  but 
I  was  greatly  delighted  with  his  St.  George  and  the  Dragon,  and 
the  Princess  on  her  Knees.  This  great  picture  has  been  a  trav- 
eller. It  was  painted  in  150G,  for  the  Duke  of  Urbino,  and 
presented  by  him  to  Henry  VII.,  at  the  death  of  Charles  I.  AVhen 
all  the  choice  works  of  art  were  scattered,  this  gem  went  with 
the  rest,  and  has  now  a  worthj^  home.  A  Madonna,  once  be- 
longing to  the  Duke  of  Alba,  and  afterwards  the  great  attrac- 
tion of  the  Coesvelt  gallery,  is  a  world-renowned  picture,  and 
cost  the  emperor  more  than  thirty  thousand  dollars.  This  has 
been  engraved  in  London,  and  is,  to  my  eye,  one  of  the  most 
pleasing  Madonnas  that  I  know.  The  Virgin  Mother  is  seated 
in  a  landsG?.pe  scene,  the  Saviour  on  her  lap,  while  she  is  read- 
ing a  book,  and  John,  kneeling,  offers  the  infant  a  cup.  The 
mother's  expression  is  exquisitely  beautiful.  I  was  greatly 
delighted  with  a  Judith,  ascribed  to  Raphael,  but  supposed  to 


134  THE    LOGGIE  —  PETEr'S   MUSEUM. 

be  a  Moretto.  The  paintings  by  Domenichino  are,  I  think,  not 
at  all  equal  to  some  I  have  seen  in  English  galleries,  and  in  the 
Louvre.  And  certainly  this  is  true  of  the  pictures  by  llubens, 
if  I  except  the  Martyrdom  of  St.  Sebastian,  the  Bacchus  and 
SatyrSj  Perseus  and  Andromeda.  Vandyke  has  here  Charles  I. 
and  his  Queen,  and  noble  pictures  they  are,  too.  A  marriage  of 
St.  Catherine,  by  Corregio,  is  an  interesting  production  of  this 
great  master. 

Hercules  strangling  the  Serpents,  by  Sir  Joshua  Reynolds,  is 
a  famous  picture  ;  but  has  recently  been  restored,  and  not  very 
ably,  I  suspect.  "The  Repose  in  Egypt,"  by  Murillo,  is  a  great 
effort,  and  demands  a  careful  study.  Snyders'  Bear  Hunt  is  a 
wonderful  piece  of  study,  and  pleased  me  as  much  as  his  great 
Boar  Hunt,  that  I  have  seen,  I  think,  in  Holland.  In  one  of 
the  galleries  we  noticed  a  copy  of  Raphael's  Loggie.  This  is 
by  celebrated  Italian  painters. 

The  Loggie  are  galleries  in  a  part  of  the  Vatican  palace,  and 
are  decorated  by  Raphael  with  paintings,  and  stuccoes,  and  ara- 
besque ornaments.  The  subjects  are  chiefly  mythological  sub- 
jects. The  ceilings  describe  a  cycle  of  events  from  Scripture 
history,  and  these  have  been  called  "  Raphael's  Bible."  I 
turned  back  to  look  again  at  Gerard  Duow,  and  Mieris,  and 
Ostade,  and  would  gladly  have  tarried  all  day  over  these  pre- 
cious panels.  But  we  were  off  to  other  portions  of  this  vast 
curiosity-shop.  Here  is  the  Museum  of  Peter  the  Great.  Here 
are  his  clothes,  his  work-tools,  his  lathes,  his  finished  and  un- 
finished carving  and  statuary ;  for  he  was  no  mean  sculptor,  as 
his  Abraham  and  Isaac  testify.  In  a  glass  case  he  is  presented, 
life-like,  in  his  wedding-suit  of  clothes.  Never  have  I  seen  such 
a  collection  of  jewelry  and  preciou"  stones  as  are  gathered  to- 
gether in  these  long,  long  galleries.  Bouquets,  that  look  as 
though  they  had  perfume,  are  here  by  scores,  all  formed  of 
rubies,  emeralds,  diamonds  and  amethysts,  of  inestimable  value; 


ANTIQUITIES   FROM    THE   CRIMEA.  135 

watches  by  hundreds,  and  snuff-boxes  and  works  of  art  adorned 
by  diamonds. 

We  came  to  the  conclusion  that  the  buried-up  treasures  of  the 
Hermitage  would  meet  all  the  expenses  of  a  formidable  cam- 
paign. No  person,  who  has  not  visited  this  truly  wonderful 
place,  can  imagine  what  knick-knackery  and  works  of  vertu  are 
crowded  into  one  room  after  another. 

The  snuff-boxes  which  have  been  presented  from  the  Sultans 
of  Turkey  are  almost  too  precious  to  be  credited.  Here  is  an 
escritoire  that  opens  to  the  sound  of  music,  and  has  hundreds 
of  secret  drawers,  all  starting  out  by  hidden  springs.  One  of 
the  most  gorgeous  trifles  is  a  vast  clock,  in  a  glass  case,  ten  feet 
by  six  or  eight.  The  clock  is  a  large  tree,  of  which  the  branches 
and  leaves  are  gold.  In  the  foliage  is  a  peacock,  who,  when  the 
chimes  commence,  expands  his  tail,  and  an  owl  turns  up  his 
solemn  eyes,  and  a  golden  cock  flaps  his  wings  and  crows  lustily. 

The  Hermitage  contains  a  fine  librar}^,  containing  the  private 
collections  of  Voltaire,  Diderot  and  Zimmerman,  with  those  of 
other  illustrious  scholars.  But  the  grand  Imperial  Library  is 
one  of  the  largest  in  Europe,  and  now  contains  nearly  half  a 
million  of  books.  The  MSS.  here  gathered  are  invaluable,  espe- 
cially those  bearing  upon  French  and  English  history.  Here  are 
volumes  of  original  letters,  unequalled  in  interest;  and  every 
facilit}^  is  aftbrdcd  to  the  students  in  obtaining  access  to  these 
marvellous  treasures. 

One  room  was  intensely  interesting.  It  was  devoted  to  anti- 
quities brought  from  the  Crimea ;  and,  if  I  recollect  rightly, 
from  a  town  between  the  Sea  of  Azof  and  the  Black  Sea.  These 
arc  of  the  purest  gold,  and  of  immense  value.  They  were  found 
in  tumuli,  and  were  of  Grecian  origin.  The  laurel  wreaths  are 
as  perfect  as  if  just  from  the  goldsmith's  hands.  A  helmet,  or 
mask,  with  a  shield,  are  of  the  highest  order  of  artistic  skill. 
No  palace  in  Europe  can  match  this  unique  collection.  All  the 
apartmeats  in  the  Hermitage  are  adorned  with  the  most  costly 


136  GRAND   DUKE    CONSTANTINE'S   PALACE. 

furniture;  chairs  and  sofas  of  exquisite  design  and  material,  and 
centre-tables  of  unknown  value,  of  porphyry,  jasper,  lapis-lazuli, 
and  malachite.  One  vase,  of  gigantic  proportions,  is  made  of 
Siberian  marble  :  it  is  of  an  oblong  form,  and  its  circumference 
is  fifty  feet,  and  its  weight  forty-three  thousand  two  hundred 
pounds. 

It  is  tantalizing  to  look  at  this  place,  and  to  feel  that,  instead 
of  spending  a  week  or  two  in  the  treasury  of  art,  science  and 
beauty,  you  must  "  do  it  up  "  in  three  or  four  hours. 

I  forget  whether  here  or  elsewhere,  but  I  think  in  the  Her- 
mitage, it  was  that  I  saw  Bruloff's  great  picture  of  the  Last  Days 
of  Pompeii.  It  is,  I  think,  full  twenty  feet  by  fifteen  or  sixteen  ; 
its  management  of  color  is  almost  as  wonderful  as  the  work  of 
Rembrandt,  and  there  ai-e  figui'es  in  the  grouping  that  will  live 
in  memory. 

The  marble  palace  contiguous  to  the  Hermitage  is  one  of 
the  noblest  mansions  here,  and  is  the  residence  of  the  G-rand 
Duke  Constuntine,  who,  although  it  was  closed  for  the  summer, 
and  all  the  rooms  covered,  had  the  politeness  to  have  it  thrown 
open  to  our  party,  and  everything  uncovered  for  inspection. 
Those  who  went  through  it  were  greatly  delighted ;  but  I  was 
weary  of  splendid  rooms,  and  preferred  a  quiet  walk,  and  then 
a  drive  round  and  about  the  city. 

Visits  were  made  to  the  Admiralty,  the  Mint,  the  Arsenal, 
the  Fort,  the  Custom-house  and  the  Corps  des  Mines,  where  a 
large  number  of  pupils  are  educated  for  governmental  service  in 
the  vast  mines  of  the  empire.  Here  is  the  finest  mineralogical 
museum  in  the  world,  and  a  description  of  it  would  make  an 
interesting  volume.  Under  ground  is  a  fine  model  of  a  Siberian 
mine,  representing  all  the  various  appearances  of  a  natural  for- 
mation. 

Directly  in  front  of  the  Winter  Palace  is  the  Hotel  de  I'Etat 
Major.  On  this  very  immense  structure  is  a  beautiful  group  of 
bronze,  —  a  chariot  of  Victory,  drawn  by  eight  prancing  steeds. 


MONASTERY  —  ENGLISH   CHURCH.  137 

This  is  a  noble  work,  and  is  universally  admired.  Between  the 
palace  and  this  edifice  stands  the  famous  Alexander's  Pillar,  a 
grand  shaft  of  red  marble,  from  the  quarries  of  Finland.  This  is 
surmounted  by  an  angel  bearing  a  cross.  The  height  of  the 
monument  is  nearly  one  hundred  and  sixty  feet. 

In  company  with  my  old  friend  Mr.  Evans,  of  New  Bedford, 
who  has  the  superintendance  of  the  imperial  cordage  manufac- 
tory, I  visited  the  Monastery  of  St.  Alexander  Neffsky  ;  this  is 
a  very  celebrated  institution,  and  is  the  seat  of  a  Metropolitan. 
Its  situation  is  at  the  remote  part  of  the  Perspective,  and 
encloses  in  its  precincts  churches,  towns,  gardens  and  cloisters ; 
it  was  founded  by  Peter,  on  the  spot  where  the  saint  won  a 
(jreat  battle,  and  here  he  lies  interred.  The  church  is  very 
large,  and  its  pillars  are  of  fine  marble ;  and,  although  it  hai 
many  adornments,  it  looked  to  me  almost  as  dirty  as  the  monks 
who  were  swarming  round.  The  shrine  of  the  saint  is  in  a 
small  chapel,  and  is  of  enormous  value.  The  pyramid  is  said 
to  weigh  five  thousand  two  hundred  pounds  of  silver,  and  is 
fifteen  feet  high ;  a  silver  chandelier  here  is  exceedingly  fine, 
but  the  other  silver  work  is  in  bad  taste.  The  chanting  by  the 
monks  was  very  solemn,  and  the  conduct  of  the  worshippers  ex- 
ceedingly devout.  The  Smolnoi  Monastery  I  did  not  visit.  The 
Sabbath  day  we  passed  in  St.  Petersburg,  I  attended  morning 
service  in  the  English  church,  —  a  very  fine  building,  —  the 
church  will  accommodate  some  four  or  five  hundred  persons.  It 
is  the  best  edifice  I  have  seen  as  yet,  on  the  continent,  for  Epis- 
copal services.  The  clergyman  in  charge  is  the  Rev.  Dr.  Law, 
who  has  been  settled  there  about  thirty  years.  The  congregation 
was  respectable,  but  not  as  large  as  in  winter,  owing  to  the 
absence  of  many  of  his  parishioners  in  their  suburban  retreats. 
The  sermon  was  truly  excellent,  but  rather  a  controversial  one. 
The  text  was  "The  brightness  of  the  Father's  glory."  The 
discourse  was  very  much  after  the  style  of  Bishop  Horsley,  and 
had  some  ingenuity  in  its  argument.  The  deportment  of  tho 
12 


138  KESAN    CATHEDRAL. 

audience  was  very  devotional.  There  is  also  a  Scotch  church  iii 
the  city ;  but  I  was  not  aware  of  it  till  Monday,  or  I  should  have 
been  present  part  of  the  day.  In  the  afternoon,  at  five  o'clock, 
I  went  to  the  Kesan  cathedral.  This  is  a  building  in  the  form 
of  a  Greek  cross,  the  arms  of  which  are  equal ;  in  the  centre  is  a 
large  dome,  and  at  the  ends  four  small  pointed  cupolas.  The 
position  of  this  cathedral  is  imposing ;  it  is  on  the  Neffsky  Per- 
spective, and  stands  finely  back  from  the  street.  The  great 
external  feature  is  the  colonnade,  of  vast  Corinthian  columns, 
forming  a  semi-circle,  and  the  end  of  which  almost  reaches  to  the 
houses  on  the  street.  Although  the  church,  in  its  approach,  dis- 
appointed me,  yet  I  difier  from  those  who  censure  thi^  grand 
screen  or  colonnade.  It  strikes  me  as  one  of  the  sublimest  pieces 
of  architecture  I  am  acquainted  with.  A  walk  under  its  lofty 
portico  is  no  mean  pleasure.  In  front  of  the  cathedral  are  two 
fine  statues  of  Kutuzofi"  and  Barclay  de  Tolly.  The  interior  is 
certainly  grand,  but  heavy.  The  pillars  are  fifty-eight  in  num- 
ber, if  I  reckoned  correctly.  The  holy-place  —  the  Ikonostast, 
where  women  never  enter  —  has  its  beams,  and  what  is  usually 
wood-work,  of  solid  silver.  Every  worshipper,  I  noticed,  pur- 
chased a  small  taper  of  tallow  or  wax  at  the  door ;  and  then, 
going  up  to  the  Lady  shrine,  bowing  his  head  to  the  pavement, 
and  crossing  his  breast,  he  lights  his  candle  from  an  ever-burnino- 
holy  lamp  before  the  Virgin,  and  kisses  the  pavement.  His 
candle  he  places  in  a  silver  plate,  where  are  many  others  burning, 
and  he  proceeds  to  say  his  prayers ;  and  when  he  quits  the  sanc- 
tuary, it  is  with  backward  steps  and  repeated  genuflections.  In 
the  Greek  churches  there  are  no  images,  but  many  pictures,  and 
the  Virgin  is  always  adorned  with  gold  and  jewels.  A  diamond 
in  the  Virgin's  crown,  in  this  church,  is  the  next  in  size  to  that 
on  the  emperor's  regalia.  I  forgot  to  say  that  the  pillars,  and 
balustrades,  and  picture-frames  of  the  Ikonostast,  are  all  solid  sil- 
ver, —  the  donation  of  the  Cossacks  to  the  holy  mother  of  Kesan. 
At  this  shrine   old  Kutuzoff  performed  his   solemn   act  of 


ISAAC    CHURCH.  139 

worship,  before  he  took  command  of  the  army  in  1812.  This 
church  is  adorned  with  military  trophies  in  great  plenty.  I 
noticed  some  twenty  French  eagles,  which  were  captured  in 
Napoleon's  great  mistake  —  his  Russian  campaign.  I  was  in- 
terested with  the  worship,  which  was  even  more  gorgeous  and 
formal  than  the  rites  of  the  Romish  church.  The  chanting  was 
very  fine,  and  exceedingly  solemn  and  impressive,  without  any 
musical  accompaniment.  All  classes  of  society  appeared  among 
the  worshippers,  nor  was  there  any  lack  of  men.  I  saw  nothing 
like  want  of  thought  or  reverence,  and  I  understand  that  all  the 
duties  of  religion  are  urged  upon  the  people  by  frequent  visits 
at  their  own  houses.  The  worship  of  the  Virgin  evidently 
prevails  over  that  of  her  Son. 

In  leaving  this  temple,  I  felt  that  it  was  not  equal  in  solemn 
grandeur  to  many  churches  in  Belgium  and  France.  The  next 
day,  when  I  visited  the  Isaac  church,  now  in  process  of  erection, 
I  had  far  different  emotions,  and  felt  that  here  indeed  was  a 
fane  worthy  of  its  end  and  purpose.  No  man  can  fail  to  be 
impressed  with  this  wonderful  pile.  The  exquisite  proportions 
of  this  church  seem  to  diminish  its  apparent  size.  I  have  only 
to  say  that  here  are  monoliths,  of  Finland  marble,  sixty  feet  high, 
forming  perystiles  of  unsurpassed  beauty ;  and  in  the  interior 
are  columns  of  malachite,  fifty  feet  high,  which  adorn  the  altars. 
Malachite,  lapis-lazuli,  porphyry  and  gold,  all  seem  to  vie  with 
each  other  for  the  preeminence  in  this  glorious  pile.  Long  years 
have  been  devoted  to  this  sanctuary,  and  very  many  more  must 
elapse  before  it  will  be  completed.  The  dome  is  grand,  and  the 
granite  pillars  around  have  a  noble  effect.  I  think  the  Isaac 
church  will  take  its  rank  with  St.  Peter's  and  Paul's  cathe- 
dral ;  but  my  own  preference  is  to  the  Gothic  style  of  architecture 
for  such  vast  buildings.  The  facade,  windows  and  pediments, 
are  in  the  hands  of  French  artists.  The  angel  at  the  Saviour's 
tomb,  and  the  female  figures  and  affrighted  soldiers,  are  repre- 
eented  in  gilt  bronze  figures,  eight  feet  high,  on  one  of  the  pedi- 


140  ISAAC    CHURCH. 

ments,  and  are  beautiful  beyond  description.  The  frescos  on  the 
dome  are  still  in  progress.  The  cupola  is  copper,  richly  gilt, 
and  is  surmounted  by  a  small  one,  a  miniature  edition  of  the 
first;  and  above  all  is  the  golden  symbol  of  the  Christian  faith. 
The  malachite  used  for  the  holy  of  holies  was  given  to  the 
emperor  by  Count  DemidofiF,  and  its  value  is  estimated  at  one 
million  of  rubles.  St.  Isaac  happens  to  have  his  day  in  the 
calendcar  on  the  birth-day  of  Peter  the  Great,  and  so  gets  the 
patronage  of  this  temple. 


CHAPTER    IX. 

MAJOR     THOMPSON    BROWN  DROSKYS WEDDING  GOSTINNOI    DVOR  

STREETS MILITARY FAREWELL      TO      ST.      PETERSBURG  RETURN     TO 

THE     YACHT  VISITORS  REGATTA  CRONSTADT  MR.     WILKINS  

DANGEROUS    POSITION VISIT     FROM     GRAND     DUCHESS    OF    OLDENBURGH 

AND    FAMILY STEAMBOAT  PARTY  AND    IMPERIAL  BAND THE   EMPEROR 

QUEEN    DOWAGER    OF    HOLLAND NARROW    ESCAPE. 

It  gave  me  great  pleasure  to  meet  in  St.  Petersburg  with 
Major  Thompson  Brown,  Consulting  Engineer  to  the  emperor. 
This  accomplished  gentleman  and  his  excellent  lady  were  my 
old  friends  and  fellow-townspeople  in  Newport,  and  here  I  found 
them  most  happily  situated.  The  position  which  this  gentleman 
occupies  is  one  of  great  responsibility,  and  brings  him  into 
frequent  contact  with  the  emperor  and  the  officers  of  state. 
Major  Brown  resides  a  few  miles  out  of  the  city,  in  a  delight- 
ful country  villa.  I  was  on  my  way  to  visit  him,  when  horse- 
flesh gave  out,  and  I  was  reluctantly  compelled  to  abandon  the 
pleasure.  I  have  been  much  amused  with  the  drosky.  This 
is  the  great  carriage  of  the  Russian  everywhere.  It  has  four 
wheels,  and  a  long  seat  with  a  cushion  ;  this  seat  is  quite  low. 
It  is  usually  drawn  by  two  horses ;  it  has  no  top,  and  accommo- 
dates two  persons,  who  have  their  feet  on  different  sides  of  the 
seat.  One  horse  is  in  the  shaftSj  which  are  very  strong,  and  made 
fast  to  the  collar  by  leather  thongs,  and  joined  by  a  bow,  four 
feet  high,  called  a  dooga,  arching  over  the  neck  of  the  horse;  at 
this  point  the  traces  start  a  foot  back  of  the  collar,  rivetted  to 
the  shafts,  and  thence  run  to  the  axle  outside  the  hubs  of  the 
front  wheels.  A  stylish  turn-out  is  a  drosky,  with  one  horse,  a 
12* 


142  DROSKYS  —  WEDDING. 

trotter,  in  the  sliafts,  and  a  horse  alongside  in  traces,  made  fast 
to  a  stationary  bar,  one  end  of  which  projects  a  couple  of  feet 
outside  of  the  front  end  of  the  drosky.  The  rig  of  this  horse  is 
independent  of  the  other,  excepting  his  attachment,  by  an  inside 
rein  six  feet  long,  to  the  saddle-girt  of  the  shaft-horse.  This 
rein  enables  him  to  travel  at  pleasure  at  an  angle  of  about  thirty 
degrees  from  the  other,  and  he  is  kept  at  that  angle  by  a  rein 
from  the  outside  of  his  bit  running  through  a  ring  in  his  breech- 
ing to  the  hands  of  his  driver,  who  holds  the  reins  for  the  shaft- 
horse  and  one  for  this  side  animal ;  the  particular  department 
of  which  last  one  is  to  make  a  flourish,  going  on  at  a  gallop,  to 
which  he  has  been  trained,  and  swinging  his  head  and  neck,  from 
the  level  of  his  body,  towards  the  ground  constantly.  An  extra 
flash  establishment  is  with  two  outside  prancers,  one  on  either 
side  the  shaft-horse.  This  enables  a  fast  trotter  to  travel  with 
a  galloping  horse  without  discomfort  to  either,  and  produces  no 
irregular  motion  in  the  vehicle. 

The  horses  in  the  city  are  very  fine,  and  some  of  the  carriage- 
horses  are  quite  large,  and  of  excellent  action.  The  harnesses 
are  all  light,  if  we  except  the  collar,  and  many  of  them  are  richly 
adorned  with  polished  plates  of  silver  and  brass. 

On  the  Sabbath,  which  we  spent  in  St.  Petersburg,  we  found 
a  wedding-feast  celebrated  at  our  hotel;  and,  in  going  to  our 
dining-room  at  supper-time,  the  waiter  took  us  through  the  room 
where  the  festivities  were  going  on.  Excellent  music  and  spirited 
dancing  seemed  to  have  put  the  party  into  high  spirits. 

Our  purchases  took  us  into  every  part  of  the  city,  and,  of 
course,  we  visited  the  far-famed  Grostinnoi  Dvor.  This  is  an 
immense  bazaar,  where  everything  you  can  fancy  or  wish 
for  is  exposed  for  sale.  It  is  a  wonderful  structure,  extend- 
ing through  several  streets,  and  reminded  me  of  the  great  fairs 
which  I  remember  in  England  in  my  early  days,  but  which  are 
now  nearly  abolished.  The  various  trades  are  here  found  keep- 
ng  company  in  their  proper  classes.     The  proprietors  of  these 


APPEARANCE    OF    THE    CITY.  143 

booths  and  stalls  are  perfectly  importunate,  and  not  a  queerer 
set  of  men  have  I  often  seen.  They  stand  waiting  at  their 
doors,  and  are  as  ready  to  solicit  custom  as  a  Chatham-street  son 
of  Abraham.  On  many  of  these  stores  I  noticed  a  paltry  picture 
of  some  saint,  and  in  front  of  it  a  little  lamp,  burning.  Here  we 
bought  -boots,  slippers,  shoes,  cushions,  mats;  and  some  of  the 
ladies  made  expensive  investments  in  sables,  ermines,  and  other 
furs.  On  the  Saturday  we  saw  a  great  many  of  these  shops 
closed,  and  the  doors  fastened  with  a  string,  and  red  seal  upon 
it.  Mr.  Evans  informed  us  that  the  Jews  considered  this  a  more 
secure  fastening  than  the  strongest  lock,  to  protect  their  property. 
The  engravings  which  we  selected  were  very  expensive,  and  were 
all  of  them  executed  in  Paris,  and  when  in  that  city  I  found  it 
impossible  to  obtain  them.  In  all  parts  of  the  city  we  found  men 
vending  tea  and  ice-water,  quass,  and  other  refreshments.  We 
noticed,  on  three  occasions,  a  large,  shut-up,  dark-looking  carriage, 
with  no  windows,  and  door  locked,  escorted  by  twelve  or  sixteen 
soldiers.  These  were  prisoners  on  their  way  to  justice,  or  about  to 
go  off  to  Siberia,  the  great  Botany  Bay  of  the  empire.  I  was 
much  pleased  with  the  fruit-stalls  and  shops,  and  have  rarely 
seen  finer  fruit.  The  apples  were  the  choicest  specimens  I  could 
desire  ;  but,  having  been  brought  from  the  southern  provinces,  and 
kept  through  the  winter,  were  extravagantly  high  in  price.  The 
egg-plums,  apricots,  grapes  and  melons,  were  all  fine ;  but  very 
costly,  as  we  found  out  at  a  dessert  ordered  at  our  hotel.  Tho 
bird  bazaar  is  an  extraordinary  spot,  and  will  well  repay  a  visit. 
Here  are  linnets,  goldfinches,  bulfinches  and  nightingales,  and 
many  other  birds  with  which  I  was  unacquainted. 

The  general  appearance  of  what  we  have  seen  in  St.  Peters- 
burg has  pleased  me  exceedingly.  Here  is  a  capital  that  may 
vie  with  any  in  Earope  for  splendor  and  magnificence  ;  and  it 
evidently  bears  the  impress  of  firmness,  and  promises  to  become 
second  in  grandeur  to  no  other  metropolis.  The  streets  present 
a  gay  appearance,  painted  white,  yellow,  and  light-green.     The 


144  GOSTINNOi   DVOR— FRUITS,    ETC. 

spires,  domes,  and  fagades  of  churches  and  palaces,  are  seen 
thickly  grouped,  and  the  canals  are  wide  and  river-like,  and 
sweep  round  with  much  beauty ;  and  then  the  glorious  Neva 
adorns  the  city  far  more  than  the  Thames  or  Seine  does  London 
or  Paris.  The  streets,  too,  are  well  planted  with  trees.  I  do 
not  well  understand  where  the  poor  reside,  as  there  seem  to  be 
no  lanes,  courts  or  alleys  ;  all  is  wide,  spacious  street.  I  imagine 
that  they  live  in  cellars,  and  burrow  under  shops  and  the  mansions 
of  the  wealthy.  The  roofs  of  churches  and  the  rest  of  the  build- 
ing often  have  little  agreement,  and  styles  of  architecture  are 
strangely  jumbled  together, —  Grecian  fagades,  and  Oriental, 
onion-shaped  domes  and  cupolas.  The  police  are  dressed  in  the 
plainest  garb,  a  drab  long  coat ;  one  of  this  body  is  at  every 
corner,  armed  with  a  desperate-looking  axe.  The  military  ap- 
pear in  the  streets  in  considerable  strength.  The  men  seem  to  me 
rather  like  machines,  —  no  force  of  expression.  The  most  of 
them  are  en  route  for  the  south  and  the  disputed  provinces.  The 
music  of  the  bands  was  very  good.  The  serfs,  who  are  so  nu- 
merous, come  every  spring  from  the  country;  each  has  to  obtain 
a  permit.  In  the  autumn  these  men  return  with  their  small 
earnings.  No  small  income  accrues  to  the  government  from  the 
payment  on  these  permits  to  come  and  go.  In  all  parts  of  the 
city  I  have  seen  vast  flocks  of  pigeons.  These  bkds  are  held  in 
sacred  estimation,  because  the  dove  is  the  scriptural  e^mblem  of 
the  third  person  of  the  holy  Trinity. 

I  imagine  that  the  population  of  this  city  is  not  far  from  six 
hundred  and  fifty  thousand.  I  was  informed  by  a  medical  gen- 
tleman, long  resident  in  Russia,  that  the  mortality  is  great,  and 
is  unfavorable  in  comparison  with  other  capitals  of  Europe. 

We  were  all  sorry  when  we  had  to  bid  adieu  to  this  city  of 
palaces,  magnificent  churches,  and  golden  domes  and  spires.  We 
cast  one  more  look  on  that  unrivalled  square,  a  glance  at  the 
equestrian  bronze,  another  at  the  ever-present  admiralty  spire, 
and  we  were  on  board  the  little  steamer  to  take  us  to  our  noble 


VISITORS   TO    THE   YACHT  —  REGATTA.  145 

ship.  On  getting  on  board  the  passage-boat,  we  met  a  goodly 
number  of  our  friends  to  accompany  us  to  Cronstadt ;  among 
them  were  Major  Brown  and  his  charming  daughters,  Mr.  and 
Mrs.  Evans,  Mr.  Bodisco,  a  Russian  officer,  and  nephew  of  the 
minister  from  Russia  to  our  country,  and  where  our  valued 
young  friend  has  passed  many  years  of  his  boyhood.  We  soon 
arrived  at  the  yacht,  and  the  day  was  spent  most  delightfully 
with  our  friends,  to  whom  we  had  the  happiness  to  receive  an 
addition,  in  the  company  of  Mr,  and  Mrs.  Ropes,  Mr.  and  Mrs. 
Prince,  Mr.  Endicot,  of  Boston,  and  several  very  agreeable  and 
interesting  English  ladies,  and  also  a  number  of  French  and 
Russian  ladies  and  gentlemen,  who  came  down  in  a  charming 
little  steamer,  chartered  for  the  occasion.  Several  of  these  little 
boats  visited  us  during  our  anchorage,  and  hundreds  of  persons 
inspected  the  yacht  with  evident  pleasure.  More  than  once  we 
had  two  steamers  at  once  alongside.  Mr.  James  Thall,  a  gentle- 
man of  great  literary  acquirements,  and  a  remarkably  good 
linguist,  who  had  a  country  residence  at  Peterhoff,  and  paid 
members  of  our  party  polite  attentions,  came,  with  his  family,  in  a 
fairy  steamer.  Amongst  the  numerous  visitors  at  different  times 
to  the  North  Star,  were  Admiral  Glassenapp,  Prince  Witgen- 
stein,  and  Admiral  Richord,  the  ex-Governor  of  Kamtschatka,  an 
aged  gentleman,  of  great  good  sense  and  tact.  He  examined 
everything  carefully,  and  Mr.  Vanderbilt  was  very  much  pleased 
with  his  visit.     He  is  in  command  of  the  navy  at  Cronstadt. 

AVhilst  we  were  lying  at  anchor,  we  had  the  pleasure  to 
witness  the  annual  yacht  regatta.  The  prize,  I  believe,  was  a 
silver  cup,  given  by  the  emperor.  We  saw  the  vessels  return 
from  the  race  of  some  seventy  miles,  and  they  all  passed  close  to 
us.  Some  of  them  were  very  pretty  schooners,  and  one  noble 
one  was  evidently  of  English  build,  and  had  a  happy-looking  set 
of  Englishmen  on  board.  Mr.  Baird's  boat  took  the  prize,  if  I 
remember  rightly.  We  had,  in  our  numerous  parties  who  came 
on  board,  several  treats  in  tb;  efforts  of  ladies  and  gentlemen  on 


146    -  RUSSIAI<     .UNCH  —  ROYAL    VISITORS. 

the  noble  piano  which  adorned  our  saloon.  One  of  these  gentle- 
men had  the  reputation  of  being  the  best  pianist  of  the  citj. 

In  our  visits  to  Cronstadt,  we  had  much  polite  and  friendly 
kindness  from  Mr.  Wilkins,  the  partner  of  the  American  vice- 
consul,  Mr.  Rowe.  At  Mr.  Wilkins'  hospitable  abode  Captain 
Eldridge,  his  lady,  and  a  few  of  us,  partook  of  an  elegant  lunch, 
which  we  shall  often  think  of  with  pleasure.  Here  we  partook 
of  a  variety  of  Russian  luxuries,  which  we  had  not  met  with  in 
the  hotels.  Such  sweetmeats  I  never  tasted.  They  were  of 
various  kinds ;  and  one,  made  of  berries,  we  thought  superior  to 
the  strawberry.  Caviare  and  mushrooms  were  on  the  table  in 
perfection.  At  our  request,  we  were  treated  to  a  taste  of  the 
national  beverage,  quass,  and  a  very  small  taste  sufficed ;  a  more 
villanous  compound  I  never  tasted.  The  attentions  of  Mr. 
Wilkins  and  his  family  were  constant.  Our  purchases  in  Cron- 
stadt were  chiefly  Russian  robes,  Kezan  soap,  and  shoes. 

In  going  on  shore  on  this  occasion,  with  the  captain,  we  nearly 
met  with  an  accident.  We  proposed  to  go  through  the  Merchant 
Dock,  and  it  is  so  crowded  as  to  make  it  a  difficult  navigation. 
Our  boat  got  jammed  between  two  vessels  in  motion,  and  such  a 
cracking  as  the  ribs  of  our  gig  made  proved  the  sense  she  felt  of 
injury.  Luckily,  one  of  the  vessels  yawed  off,  or  we  should  have 
been  crushed  most  certainly. 

We  noticed  a  steamer  alongside,  with  an  evidently  distin- 
guished party  of  visitors,  —  one  of  the  gentlemen  in  full  dress, 
and  wearing  the  broad  ribbon  of  a  field-marshal.  As  soon  as 
the  visitors  came  on  the  quarter-deck,  they  announced  them- 
selves, and  we  had  the  honor  to  welcome  the  Grrand  Duchess  of 
Oldenburgh,  the  niece  of  the  Czar,  and  her  family  of  seven  chil- 
dren, attended  by  their  tutors  and  governesses.  The  gentleman 
in  charge  of  them  was  Field-marshal  Toltog.  As  soon  as  the 
duchess  came  on  board,  she  asked  me  if  I  knew  her  "  very  dear 
friend,  good  Dr.  Baird,  of  New  York,"  of  whom  she  spoke  in 
terms  of  the  warmest  friendship  and  respect ;  and  also  of  other 


STEAMBOAT   VISIT  AT  NIGHT.  147 

ministers,  whom  ho  had,  she  said,  so  kindly  commended  to  her 
acquaintance.  This  lady  speaks  English  fluently,  and  is,  beyond 
all  doubt,  a  decidedly  Christian  character.  The  party  remained 
on  board  two  or  three  hours,  partook  of  refreshments,  and  were 
very  much  gratified.  The  daughter  of  the  princess  was  a  charm- 
ing girl  of  about  fifteen,  very  intelligent,  and  simple  in  her 
manners.  The  duchess,  at  leaving,  begged  me,  if  ever  I  revis- 
ited St.  Petersburg,  to  report  myself  at  once  at  her  palace.  All 
the  members  of  her  suite  were  English,  and  appeared  to  be  pious 
people.  On  the  evening  before  we  sailed,  we  saw  a  steamer 
approaching  from  St.  Petersburg,  with  streamers  flying,  and  a 
band  of  music  playing.  As  soon  as  she  came  up,  we  found  that 
Major  Brown,  his  lady  and  daughters,  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Kopes,  and 
a  numerous  party  of  friends,  had  come  down  to  take  a  farewell, 
and  had  brought  with  them  the  imperial  band,  the  finest  in  Russia. 
This  was  an  unexpected  gratification,  for  which  we  were  indebted 
to  Major  Brown.  Mrs.  Brown  and  I  had  a  long  talk  over  our 
old  friends  in  Newport,  and  her  deep  interest  in  them  led  to  a 
very  protracted  chat,  during  which  the  party,  under  the  fine 
awning  of  our  spacious  quarter-deck,  had  been  busily  engaged  in 
waltzing  to  music  which  is  rarely  equalled.  Refreshments  were 
brought  to  the  company,  and  the  band  played  Hail  Columbia, 
God  save  the  Queen,  and  The  Emperor's  March  ;  and  then,  amid 
a  display  of  rockets  and  blue  lights  from  the  North  Star,  and 
nine  hearty  cheers  from  both  boats,  our  kind  friends  "  all  went 
home  in  the  morning," — for  it  was  one  o'clock  when  they  cast 
oQ".  The  player  on  the  clarinet  had  recently  received  a  diamond 
ring  from  the  emperor,  as  an  award  of  distinguished  skill  as  a 
performer. 

Our  great  regret  at  leaving  Russia  is  not  having  seen  the 
great,  and,  I  believe,  good  man,  the  emperor,  who  has  done  so 
much  to  elevate  the  condition  of  the  masses  in  his  extensive 
dominions,  and  to  improve  the  entire  country.  I  leave  Rus- 
sia with  exalted  opinions  of  the  wisdom  and  patriotism  of  the 


148  ;CHE   CZAR  —  NARROW   ESCAPE, 

emperor,  and  doubt  not  that,  if  his  life  be  spared,  Kussi 
will  continue  to  advance  in  all  that  makes  a  country  great  and 
powerful  and  happy.  I  have  heard  anecdotes  in  plenty  respect- 
ing the  Czar,  and  all  of  them  reflect  great  honor  upon  the  quali- 
ties of  his  head  and  heart ;  but  I  do  not  feel  that  I  am  at  liberty 
to  state  them  in  this  public  manner,  as  they  were  related  to  me 
in  the  social  circle,  by  men  who  are  favorably  situated  to  know 
their  truth.  Some  of  our  party  saw  the  emperor  at  the  church 
of  the  palace,  at  Peterhoff;  but  I  spent  that  Sabbath  in  the  city. 
Had  we  remained  a  day  or  two  longer,  we  should  have  seen 
the  emperor  on  board  ;  but  his  time  and  thoughts  had  all  been 
engrossed  with  the  pressing  affairs  of  the  great  vexed  question 
between  Russia  and  Turkey. 

Our  steam  was  now  up,  and  just  as  we  were  weighing  anchor 
a  steamer  hove  in  sight,  adorned  with  flags  and  streamers ;  but 
she  was  too  late  ;  the  North  Star  was  under  weigh,  and  close  by 
us  was  an  English  steamer,  bound  to  London,  having  on  board 
the  Dowager  Queen  of  Holland,  who  has  been  making  a  short  visit 
to  her  brother,  the  Czar. 

Just  as  we  were  leaving  the  guard-ship,  we  were  all  much 
excited  by  a  cry  that  a  small  boat  was  run  over  by  our  wheels. 
We  flocked  to  the  guards,  and  then  found  that  a  boat,  with  two 
boys  and  a  man, from  one  of  the  neighboring  ships,  had  got  so 
close  to  our  steamer  that,  in  fright,  one  boy  had  jumped  out  of 
the  boat,  and  was  hanging  on  to  the  iron  braces  that  support  the 
guards.  We  stopped  the  yacht,  and  rescued  the  boy,  who  looked 
thoroughly  scared ;  he  was  a  fine-looking  youth  of  sixteen,  and 
hailed  from  Scotland,  We  were  now  off;  and  shall  we  ever 
again  witness  such  sunsets,  such  evenings,  such  nights,  as  we 
have  here  enjoyed  for  the  last  few  days  ? 


CHAPTER    X. 

VOYAGE COPENHAGEN THORWALDSEN  's    MUSEUM FRUEKItKE :  HOR- 

WALDSEN'S    CHRIST    AND    HIS    APOSTLES THE   SCULPTOR  — ROSENBERGH 

PALACE  — ITS    RICH    COLLECTIONS    OF    ART  — COINS    AND    MEDALS  —  PARK 

STATUARY  COUNTRY  —  EXCHANGE  —  GALLERIES  —  AMALIENBORO 

PLADS SONQ    OF    THE    WATCHMAN. 

We  left  Kussia  June  29,  —  weather  fine.  The  30th,  the  wind 
was  strong  and  ahead,  and  more  sea  on  than  we  had  yet  experi- 
enced.    In  the  Baltic,  the  ship  pitched  considerably. 

Friday,  July  1st,  —  calm,  —  we  again  went  along  quietly,  and 
with  only  two  boilers.  At  ten  o'clock  p.  m.,  we  passed  Born- 
holm,  a  Danish  island,  eighty  miles  from  Copenhagen,  and  at 
half-past  five  in  the  morning  were  anchored  off  the  city ;  and, 
after  a  hasty  breakfast,  went  on  shore  in  our  own  boats,  deter- 
mined to  improve  the  day,  as  we  were  limited  to  five  o'clock  in 
the  afternoon. 

Copenhagen,  the  capital  of  the  kingdom  of  Denmark,  is  situ- 
ated on  the  eastern  coast  of  the  island  of  Zealand,  at  the  south- 
ern extremity  of  a  channel  connecting  the  Cattegat  with  the 
Baltic,  —  this  is  called  the  Sound,  —  and  partly  on  the  north 
coast  of  the  small  island  of  Amager,  or,  as  it  is  often  called, 
Amak.  The  situation  Ls  favorable  for  commerce.  The  city  is 
enclosed  by  ramparts,  and  is  defended  by  several  bastions  and 
outworks,  and,  towards  the  sea,  by  a  strong  citadel ;  and  powerful 
batteries  command  the  entrance  to  the  harbor.  These  forts  are 
called  the  Three  Crowns.  The  navy-yard  is  in  front  of  the  city, 
at  the  upper  end  of  Amak,  and  appears  to  be  in  excellent  con- 
dition, with  immense  store  and  ship  houses.  Here  are  several 
fine  ships-of-the-line  and  frigates.  The  port  is  formed  by  an 
13 


150  COPENHAGEN,    ETC. 

arm  of  the  sea,  and  is  capable  of  accommodating  five  iundred 
ships  besides  the  navy ;  and,  by  canals,  the  shipping  can  pass 
into  the  town. 

The  aspect  of  Copenhagen  from  the  sea  is  fine,  and  the  palace 
spires  and  church  steeples  have  a  pretty  efiect.  The  climate  is 
damp,  and  the  bills  of  mortality  are  not  favorable  to  its  reputa- 
tion for  health.  The  cholera  had  just  broken  out  here  as  we 
arrived,  and  its  ravages  were  awful  for  the  next  six  weeks,  and 
gave  a  larger  amount  of  deaths,  in  proportion  to  the  population, 
than  had  before  occurred  in  its  history  in  Europe. 

The  population  is  one  hundred  and  thirty-four  thousand,  of 
which  about  two  thousand  five  hundred  are  Jews.  The  streets 
are  in  poor  condition.  The  shops,  with  a  few  exceptions,  are 
poor ;  the  women  were  gayly  dressed,  and  I  noticed  many  in  red 
apparel,  with  very  handsomely -worked  caps.  The  government  is, 
since  1848,  a  constitutional  monarchy,  and  the  religion  is  Lu- 
theran, and  toleration  given  to  other  creeds ;  but,  strange  as  it 
seems,  certificates  of  baptism,  confirmation  and  vaccination,  are 
necessary  to  apprenticeship  and  marriage !  I  never  found  so 
many  persons  before  in  a  foreign  country  who  spoke  English. 
We  secured  a  good  guide  in  a  man  who  had  formerly  served  my 
valued  friend.  Governor  Arnold,  of  Rhode  Island,  in  the  same 
capacity,  when  he  made  an  extended  visit  to  the  North  Cape.  I 
called  on  our  United  States  Charge  d'Afi'aires,  to  whom  I  had 
letters  of  introduction ;  but  he  was  absent  from  the  city ;  and 
this,  too,  was  unfortunately  the  case  with  Professor  Rafn,  the 
great  northern  antiquarian,  to  whom  I  had  a  letter  from  the 
Hon.  J.  R.  Bartlett,  the  commissioner  for  the  United  States  in 
the  Mexican  boundary  afiair.  This  was  a  severe  disappointment, 
as  I  longed  to  see  the  great  museum  of  northern  antiquities, 
which  was  closed,  but  which  I  should  have  probably  seen  had 
this  learned  man  been  at  home. 

Our  first  visit  was  paid  to  the  Thorwaldsen  Museum,  which 
is  a  very  spacious  and  striking  building,  behind  the  royal  chapel. 


thorwaldsen's  museum.  151 

The  style  of  architecture  is  Egyptian,  and  it  is  two  hundred  and 
thirty  feet  long,  one  hundred  and  twenty-five  broad,  forty-six 
high,  and  has  two  stoves.  The  exterior  is  decorated  with  Tus- 
can paintings  in  reference  to  the  great  artist.  On  the  building 
stands  a  chariot  of  victory,  drawn  by  four  horses ;  this  is  exe- 
cuted in  bronze.  The  interior  apartments  are  painted  in  the 
Pompeiian  style,  in  most  glaring  colors,  and  the  work  has  been 
done  by  the  ablest  artists,  as  an  affair  of  love.  In  the  centre  of 
the  building  is  an  open  court,  and  here  is  the  simple  tomb  of  the 
immortal  sculptor.  The  lower  story  of  the  museum  is  occupied 
with  his  works,  and  the  upper  one  contains  his  collections  of  art, 
and  his  fine  painting.  Among  so  many  glorious  productions  of 
art,  it  would  be  difficult  to  make  a  selection  for  special  praise ; 
but  the  last  group  of  the  Graces,  the  Shepherd  Boy,  Ganymede 
and  the  Eagle,  Cupid  and  Psyche,  are  my  favorites. 

The  bas-reliefs  are  very  numerous,  and  attracted  my  eye  as 
much  as  the  statuary ;  and  of  these  I  prefer  Alexander's  Entry 
into  Babylon,  Night  and  Day,  and  some  of  which  I  shall  speak 
hereafter.  Well  may  the  city  be  proud  of  this  matchless  collec- 
tion of  one  life-long  labor.  I  should  much  enjoy  a  week  or 
two  in  this  place,  if  it  were  only  to  afford  a  careful  study  of 
these  noble  productions.  i 

From  this  museum  we  repaired  to  the  Fruekirke,  or  Church 
of  our  Lady,  which  is  the  cathedral  church  of  Copenhagen,  It 
was  completed  in  1829,  and  is  a  tame  building,  with  a  Doric  por- 
tico, and  has  no  claim  to  notice  beyond  the  fact  that  it  is  the 
depository  of  the  master-works  of  Thorwaldsen.  Here  is  his 
Christ  and  the  Apostles.  The  very  first  object  that  arrests  your 
eye  on  entrance  is  the  vast  statue  of  the  Redeemer,  just  at  the 
rear  of  the  altar.  Before  the  altar  stands  a  fount  of  marble, 
which  is  a  Concha  in  the  hands  of  a  kneelinor  angel.  We  were 
told  that  the  first  child  that  was  christened  here  was  one  of  Pro- 
fessor Bissen's ;  Thorwaldsen  stood  sponsor,  and  the  king  and 
queen  were  present.     Around  this  beautiful  angel  is  a  needle- 


152        CHRIST  AND   HIS   APOSTLES  —  THE   SCULPTOR. 

worked  carpet,  presented  by  Madame  Bissen.  The  apostles 
stand  on  the  sides  of  the  church,  on  pedestals  four  or  five  feet 
high.  They  are  the  most  wondrous  creations  of  art,  and  in  pure 
marble  of  Carrara.  They  far  transcend  the  idea  which  is 
obtained  by  one  who  looks  merely  at  the  casts.  Judas  was 
rejected  by  the  sculptor,  and  Paul  was  substituted.  The 
James  is  a  charming  figure,  and  so  is  Thomas ;  and,  indeed,  so  I 
say  of  them  all.  These  were  all  executed  at  Rome,  where  the 
artist  spent  a  large  portion  of  his  life.  We  saw  the  favorite 
seat  of  the  artist,  when  he  attended  this  church ;  it  was  directly 
under  the  statue  of  James. 

In  front  of  this  church,  on  the  pediment,  there  is  a  group,  in 
terra  cotta,  of  sixteen  figures,  made  by  Thorwaldsen;  it  repre- 
sents John  preaching  in  the  wilderness.  This  is  a  work  alone 
sufficient  to  give  fame  to  a  man.  In  the  portico,  is  a  bas-relief 
of  Christ's  entrance  into  Jerusalem ;  and  inside,  one  of  Child- 
hood's Guardian  Angel  on  the  right  hand,  and  on  the  left,  Chris- 
tian Charity.  A  bas-relief  behind  the  altar  represents  Christ  on 
his  way  to  Calvary ;  and  in  the  confessionals  are  others  of 
Baptism  and  the  Last  Supper. 

Thorwaldsen  was  a  native  of  Copenhagen.  He  went  to  study 
at  Rome  in  1796,  and  was  first  brought  into  reputation  by  Mr. 
Thomas  Hope,  who  engaged  him  on  the  far-famed  Jason.  In 
1819,  when  he  visited  Denmark,  he  was  honored  by  all  classes 
in  the  kingdom,  and  his  fame  was  regarded  as  part  of  the  na- 
tional glory.  He  attained  a  good  old  age,  and  died  lamented  by 
his  king  and  fellow-subjects.  A  bust  of  Byron,  by  this  sculptor, 
is  the  property  of  Dr.  Geo.  Hayward,  of  Boston.  This  city  is 
famous  for  its  statuettes  of  Thorwaldsen's  great  works ;  but  they 
are  almost  as  expensive  as  they  are  beautiful.  We  obtained  a 
few,  as  recollections  of  the  place  and  artist.  Thorwaldsen's  por- 
trait by  Horace  Vernet,  his  friend,  bears  a  very  strong  resem- 
blance to  the  late  venerable  Rev.  Dr.  Peirce,  of  Brookline, 
Ma«s. 


PALACE    OF   ROSENBERGH.  153 

We  now  proceeded  to  visit  the  Palace  of  Roseubergh.  This 
is  a  Gothic  structure,  of  brick,  with  stone  cappings,  having  a  large 
tower  to  the  west,  two  smaller  ones  to  the  east,  each  of  which 
has  a  spire,  and  then  a  small  tower  between  the  two  last,  without 
a  spire ;  and  it  is  in  this  tower  that  the  entrance  to  the  palace 
is  placed.  Inigo  Jones  is  said  to  have  designed  the  building. 
This  ancient  residence  of  the  Kings  of  Denmark  has  always  been 
a  popular  show-spot  with  travellers,  on  account  of  its  being  a 
sort  of  gallery  for  the  illustration  of  the  national  history.  It 
dates  its  glories  back  to  the  days  of  its  founder.  Christian  IV., 
who  made  it  his  constant  abode,  and  filled  it  with  works  of  art. 
The  rooms  in  this  palace  are  mostly  small ;  some  few  are  very 
spacious,  and  richly  adorned.  But  it  is  all  crowded  with  curios- 
ities. Certain  old  ladies,  who  love  old  china,  would  go  into 
ecstasies  if  they  could  see  the  antiquities  of  the  celestial  empire, 
Dresden  and  Sevre,  in  this  particular  department.  Old  Cabinets, 
secretaries,  tables,  chairs,  mirrors,  are  here  in  profusion ;  and 
they  are  of  the  costliest  kind,  and  in  grand  preservation.  I 
noticed  silver  andirons,  that  weighed  at  least  a  hundred-weight 
each ;  silver  candelabra  ten  feet  high,  with  twenty-four  branches ; 
four  silver  lions,  large  as  life,  and  well  executed;  —  these  are 
guardians  of  the  throne-room.  The  drinking-horns  of  the  old 
northern  magnates  were  very  curious,  and  indicated  that  they 
drank  deeply  into  some  things.  Here,  too,  is  the  fiir-famed  sad- 
dle, and  caparison  for  a  horse,  presented  by  Christian  IV.  to  his 
son  on  his  marriage,  in  1664.  This  is  literally  covered  with 
rubies,  pearls,  emeralds  and  diamonds,  and  the  ground- work  is 
heavy  Grenoa  velvet,  and  was  made  in  Paris,  and  must  have  been 
an  expensive  present.  The  throne-room  is  called  the  Riddersal, 
and  the  throne  is  massive  silver.  The  tapestry  of  this  room  is 
very  beautiful,  and  is  descriptive  of  Christian's  battles. 

The  collection  of  coins  and  medals  is  regarded  as  one  of  the 
finest  in  Europe,  and  would  amply  repay  a  careful  study.  I 
have  never  met  with  so  intelligent  and  competent  a  guide  as  the 
13* 


154  PALACE-GROUNDS  —  EXCHANGE. 

gentleman  who  shows  this  palace.  The  gardens  around  the  pal- 
ace are  remarkably  fine  and  park-like,  and  situated  in  the  centre 
of  the  city.  They  justify  the  pride  and  warm  attachment  of  the 
good  citizens.  The  noble  old  trees,  flourishing  shrubs  and  flowers, 
with  very  wide  walks,  make  this  a  most  agreeable  promenade ; 
and  we  saw  a  large  number  of  children,  under  the  eye  of  parents 
and  nurses,  enjoying  the  fine  day,  as  we  walked  through  the 
garden.  In  the  centre,  densely  surrounded  by  venerable  elms, 
oaks,  &c.,  is  a  large  circular  basin,  and  in  the  middle  of  this  is  a 
bronze  group,  —  a  boy  seated  on  a  swan,  —  and  from  which 
issues  a  jet  of  water.  In  a  pavilion,  at  the  termination  of  a  fine 
avenue,  is  a  bronze  group,  of  either  Hercules  or  Samson,  tearing 
open  the  jaws  of  a  lion.  This  is  a  spirited  work.  There  are 
also  a  few  marble  statues.  I  think  these  grounds  must  cover 
twenty  or  thirty  acres.  I  very  much  regretted  that  we  were 
unable  to  ride  out  to  the  far-famed  beech  woods ;  but  we  were 
forced  to  be  contented  with  a  charming  ride  through  the  Lange 
Linie,  which  is  a  noble  promenade.  AVe  went  a  mile  or  two  into 
the  country  to  see  some  pretty  villas,  and  were  much  pleased  with 
the  most  extensive  tea-garden  building  that  I  recollect  ever  to 
have  seen.  The  country  houses  were  very  neat,  and  the  out- 
premises  and  gardens  kept  in  good  order. 

The  Exchange  is  a  remarkable  edifice,  and  was  built  by  Chris- 
tian IV.  It  is  four  hundred  and  six  feet  long,  and  sixty-six 
wide.  It  has  a  commanding  entrance,  with  marble  pillars,  and 
two  statues,  representing  Neptune  and  Mercury.  The  building 
is  one  hundred  and  seventy-six  feet  high,  and  is  celebrated  for 
its  spire,  formed  of  four  dragons,  whose  heads  point  north,  south, 
east  and  west,  and  their  bodies  are  twisted  together  till  their  tails 
come  to  a  point  at  the  summit  of  the  spire. 

Few  cities  have  finer  museums,  galleries  of  art,  &c.,  than 
Copenhagen.  We  were  sadly  unfortunate  in  not  being  able  to 
gain  access  to  the  royal  gallery  of  paintings,  and  the  nortliern 
antiquities.     The  paintings  in  this  gallery  number  nearly  two 


AGKEEABLE    INCIDENT  —  SONG    OF   THE    WATCHMAN.    155 

thousand,  and  the  collection  is  rich  in  the  Flemish  and  Dutch 
schools.  But  here  is  Sal va tor  Rosa's  noble.-t  picture,  —  and  this 
I  did  long  to  see, —  "Jonah  preaching  to  the  Nuievites."  Tlie 
library,  too,  with  its  fine  collection  of  prints,  inferior  only  to  the 
library  of  Paris,  and,  perhaps,  Berlin,  was  also  closed  this  day. 
In  this  library  are  very  valuable  MSS.,  both  Icelandic  and 
Oriental. 

We  were  all  much  pleased  with  the  Amalienborg  Plads,  —  a 
fine  octagon,  formed  by  four  palaces,  of  equal  size  and  similar 
construction.    In  its  centre  is  an  equestrian  statue  of  Frederic  V. 

It  was  my  happiness  to  meet  in  Copenhagen  with  a  lady  from 
New  York,  a  near  relative  of  Mrs.  Choules ;  and  our  thus  meet- 
ing, so  far  away  from  home  and  family,  was  an  agreeable  inci- 
dent. Our  researches  were  now  brought  to  a  termination  by  a 
terrible  storm  of  hail,  thunder  and  lightning;  and  we  afterwards 
found  that,  on  the  same  day,  the  great  hail-storm  was  experienced 
in  New  York. 

Here  we  parted  from  our  young  friend  Allen,  who  was  to  pro- 
ceed from  this  city,  by  way  of  Kiel  and  Hamburg,  to  Leipsic, 
and  resume  his  studies.  We  found  a  fine  supply  of  strawberries 
in  Copenhagen,  and  the  people  afraid  to  use  them,  owing  to  the 
existence  of  cholera. 

I  think  it  may  be  well  to  insert  here  a  literal  translatio7i  of 
the 

SONG  OF  THE  WATCHMAN.* 

EIGHT   o'clock. 

When  day  departs,  and  darkness  reigns  on  earth. 

The  scene  reminds  us  of  tlie  gloomy  grave  ! 

Then  let  Thy  light,  0  Lord  !  before  us  shine. 

While  to  the  silent  tomb  our  steps  we  bend  ; 

And  grant  a  blessed  immortality  !  - 

*  This  hcl  it  of  announcing  the  hours  is  still  kept  up  in  this  city. 


156  SONG    OF   THE    WATCHMAN. 

NINE    o'clock. 

The  day  glides  by,  and  sable  Night  appears. 
For  Jesus'  sake,  0  God,  our  sins  forgive  I 

Preserve  the  royal  ftxmily; 
And  guard  the  people  which  this  land  contains 

From  danger  of  the  Enemy  ! 

TEN  o'clock. 
Master,  maid  and  boy,  — would  you  the  hour  know .' 
It  is  the  time  that  you  to  rest  should  go. 
Trust  in  the  Lord  with  faith,  and  careful  be 
Of  fire  and  light,  —  for  Ten  o'clock  has  struck  ! 

ELEVEN   o'clock. 

Almighty  God  protects  both  great  and  small  ! 
His  holy  angels  guard  us  like  a  wall  ! 
The  Lord  himself  our  city  watches  o'er, 
And  keeps  our  bodies  and  our  souls  from  harm. 

TWELVE    o'clock. 

At  the  hour  of  midnight  was  our  Saviour  born  ; 
Great  blessing  t«  a  world  which  else  were  lost  ! 
Then,  with  unfeigned  lips,  in  prayer  and  praise, 
Commend  yourselves  to  God.  —  Past  Twelve  o'clock 

one  o'clock. 
0,  Jesu  Christ !  we  pray  thee  send  us  help 
To  bear  our  cross  with  patience  in  the  world. 

For  Thou  art  God  alone  I 
And  Thou,  0  Comforter  !  Thine  hand  stretch  forth  ; 
Then  will  the  burden  light  and  easy  be ! 

The  clock  has  stricken  One  ! 

TWO  o'clock. 
0,  gracious  Lord  !  whose  love  for  us  was  such 
That  Thou  shouldst  deign  in  darkness*  to  be  bom  ; 
All  glory  's  due  to  Thee  ! 

*  OlJdCurity. 


SONG    OF   THE   AVATCHMAN.  157 

Come,  Holy  Ghost !  and  pour  into  our  hearts 
Thy  heavenly  light,  that  we  may  see  Thee  now. 
And  in  eternity  ! 

THREK    o'clock. 

Black  Night  departs,  and  Day  begins  to  dawn. 
Keep  them  far  off,  0  God,  who  wish  us  harm  ! 

The  clock  has  stricken  Three  ! 
Father,  Thine  aid  we  seek  !  —  and  of  Thy  grace 

Give  us  abundantly  ! 

FOUR  o'clock. 
Eternal  God  I  who  wouldst  the  keeper  be 

Of  us  who  dwell  below,  — 
To  Thee,  surrounded  by  the  heavenly  host. 

Honor  and  praise  are  due  ! 
For  this  good  night  give  thanks  unto  the  Lord  ! 
Remember,  "  Four  ! "  —  we  're  summoned  from  our  guard. 

FIVE  o'clock. 

Jesu  !  Thou  Morning  Star  !  we  now  resign 
To  Thy  protection,  cheerfully,  our  king. 

Be  Thou  his  sun  and  shield  ! 
And  thou,  bright  orb  of  day  !  begin  thy  course. 
And,  rising  from  the  Mercy-seat  of  God, 

Thy  radiant  lustre  yield  ! 


CHAPTER    XI. 

OFF  FOR  IL4.TRE SCENERY  OF  THE  SOUND ISLE  OF  HUEN TYCHO  BRAHlS 

NORWAY   AND    SWEDEN GODWIN    SANDS    LIGHT-SHIP DOVER     AND 

WALMER    CASTLES HAVRE STEAMER    FRANKLIN  MR.    VESEY,    U.    S. 

CONSUL THE    TOWN — HISTORICAL    INCIDENTS INGOUVILLE LEAVE 

FOR   PARIS  —  ROUEN,  POISSY,  ETC. 

We  now  see  the  English  steamer,  with  the  Queen  of  Holland 
on  board,  —  which  left  St.  Petersburg  in  company  with  us,  — 
just  heaving  in  sight.     Thus  we  beat  her  twelve  hours  ! 

At  about  six  o'clock  we  got  up  steam,  and  were  once  more 
under  way ;  and  now  we  are  heading  for  Havre.  The  heavy 
storm,  which  lasted  for  an  hour  or  more,  had  cleared  the  atmo- 
sphere,  and  we  saw  two  most  beautiful  and  clearly-defined  rain- 
bows spanning  the  sound  from  Copenhagen  to  the  Swedish 
coast  opposite ;  and  the  width  of  the  sound  here  is  about  twenty 
miles ;  but  the  distance  grows  less  very  fast  as  we  proceed  to 
Elsinore.  We  all  kept  our  eyes  upon  the  retiring  city,  in  which 
we  had  passed  a  very  pleasant,  and,  I  am  sure,  a  very  profitable 
day.  The  coasts  on  either  side  are  lovely,  and  the  Swedish  is  in 
many  places  quite  bold.  The  village  of  Landscrona  shows  up 
from  the  shore.  On  the  Danish  coast  the  scenery  is  very  attract- 
ive, and  presents  a  pleasing  variety  of  lawns,  orchards,  farms, 
villas  and  forests.  On  our  sail  we  came  close  by  the  small  island 
of  Huen,  where  the  illustrious  Tycho  Brahe  lived,  and  where  he 
made  his  famous  astronomical  researches.  It  li&i  near  to  the 
coast  of  Sweden,  and  has  a  slight  elevation,  on  which  he  built  his 
observatory,  in  which  he  was  nobly  assisted  by  the  King  of 
Denmark. 


TYCHO    BRAHE  —  SCENERY  —  STORM,  159 

Tycho  Brahe  was  born  in  1546,  and  was  educated  in  Copen- 
hagen, and,  after  spending  some  years  in  Germany,  he  returned, 
in  1571 ;  but  again  visited  Germany  in  1575.  He  was  induced 
to  settle  in  Denmark  by  the  extreme  liberality  of  Frederick  II., 
and  received  this  island  as  a  gift ;  and  on  it  he  spent  vast  sums 
of  money,  in  the  erection  of  costly  buildings.  He  outlived  his 
patron,  and  found  less  favor  from  his  successor,  Christian  IV. 
He  died,  in  1601,  in  Prague,  whither  he  had  retired,  by  the 
invitation  of  the  Emperor  Rudolph.  Never  could  the  noble 
fortress  of  Kronburgh  Castle  be  seen  to  finer  advantage  than  as 
we  swept  by  it.  The  evening  was  very  clear,  and  its  bold  towers 
were  defined  most  accurately  against  the  azure  sky.  The  stand- 
ard of  Denmark  was  floating  from  its  flag-stafi",  and  the  light- 
house, in  one  of  the  turrets  of  the  castle,  looked  cheerful,  as  it 
was  kindled  up  soon  after  we  passed  it.  We  watched  the  grand 
old  fortress  as  long  as  it  remained  in  sight,  and  spent  a  pleasant 
evening  on  deck.  The  Sunday,  however,  proved  squally,  and 
we  had  rather  an  unpleasant  day,  but  observed  our  regular  ser- 
vice in  the  saloon.  In  the  morning  we  had  some  good  views  of 
the  coast  of  Norway  and  Sweden,  as  we  passed  the  Cattegat,  and 
rounded  the  Skaw,  getting  into  the  Skagerack.  We  saw  several 
ships,  apparently  bound  into  Christiansand.  The  sea  was,  how- 
ever, rougher  than  we  had  yet  had  it  on  our  voyage..  At  two 
p.  M,  the  breeze  had  freshened  up,  and  the  waves  were  high. 
We  were  now  off  the  lee-shore  of  the  mouth  of  the  Sleive,  about 
six  miles  distant.  From  two  to  six  we  only  made  twelve  or  fifteen 
miles.  At  ten  p.  m.  the  gale  abated,  and  the  ship  made  good  way 
through  the  night ;  but  the  fog  was  as  dense  as  I  ever  saw. 

July  4.  —  The  sea  was  yeasty,  and  the  day  very  uncomfort- 
able ;  the  smoking-room  deserted,  but  only  two  persons  decidedly 
sick.  The  arrangements  for  celebrating  the  day  fell  through ; 
and  at  dinner  we  talked  patriotically,  and  did  as  a  great  many 
of  our  friends  at  home  were  doing. 

July  5.  —  I  have  already  spoken  of  the  thick  weather  we  met 


160  WALMEK    CASTLE HAVRE. 

with ;  but  it  had  little  effect  in  delaying  the  voyage,  or  hindering 
our  exact  course,  and  the  abilities  of  our  accomplished  com- 
mander were  only  made  the  more  apparent.  I  shall  not  soon 
forget  the  satisfaction  with  which  he  made  the  light-ship  on  the 
Godwin  Sands,  after  the  thickest  fog,  coming  down  directly  upon 
her,  according  to  his  prediction.  I  have  never  felt  such  abiding 
confidence  in  any  man's  judgment  as  in  that  of  Captain  Eldridge. 
All  his  movements  are  in  exact  unison  with  his  statements  made 
beforehand,  and  he  exhibits  that  perfect  acquaintedness  with  his 
profession  which  inspires  confidence  in  the  breast  of  every  person 
around. 

The  sea  had  gone  down,  but  the  wind  was  ahead.  At  one 
o'clock  p.  M.,  we  passed  close  by  the  cliff's  of  Dover,  and  had  a 
fine  view  of  Walmer  Castle,  where  England's  duke  was  conquered 
by  the  only  enemy  that  ever  vanquished  him.  The  sight  of 
Walmer  brought  to  our  remembrance  those  beautiful  lines  of 
Longfellow,  called  "The  Warden  of  the  Cinque  Ports."  I  found 
in  England  the  opinion  was  general,  that  Longfellow's  was  the 
noblest  tribute  which  the  death  of  Wellington  had  called  out, 
and  this  piece  is  thought  quite  equal  to  Campbell's  best  pieces. 
We  stood  in,  to  have  a  near  view  of  Dover  and  the  fine  coast  ad- 
jacent. The  town  extends  along  under  the  stupendous  cliffs.  We 
had  a  fine  afternoon  to  thread  through  the  channel,  and  obtained 
pleasant  glimpses  of  the  English  coast.  We  arrived  oflF  Havre 
at  night,  but  lay  to  for  morning  light ;  and,  besides,  we  could 
not  enter  the  dock  gates  till  nine  o'clock.  As  we  approached 
the  gates  in  the  morning,  we  found  thousands  of  people  gathered 
around  to  see  the  steamer  Franklin  depart  on  her  homeward 
voyage.  We  instantly  saluted  her,  which  compliment  she 
returned,  and  Captain  Wotton  very  politely  stopped  his  engine 
to  receive  our  letters  for  home.^     After  giving  her  three  hearty 

*  We  all  had  our  fears  that  we  had  missed  the  mail  for  New  York,  and 
were  sad  enough  to  see  the  steamer  fairly  under  way;  but  Captain  Eldridge 
told  us  that  he  knew  her  captain  was  by  all  odds  too  noble  a  man  to  disap- 


CONSUL    VESEY.  161 

cheers,  which  were  reciprocated  by  her  passengers,  she  went  on 
her  voyage,  and  wc  entered  the  great  port  of  the  Seine;  and  a 
more  beautiful  sight  is  not  often  witnessed  than  the  docks  and 
banks  thronged  with  citizens,  who  were  having  a  double  gratifi- 
cation ;  they  came  out  to  see  an  American  steamer  go  away,  and, 
unexpectedly,  they  found  a  still  nobler  one  coming  in  to  occupy 
her  place.  Out  of  the  vast  concourse  I  soon  singled  out  my 
friend  Mr.  Vesey,  the  recently-appointed  consul  at  Havre,  and 
he  was  the  first  on  board  to  greet  our  arrival.  It  would  be  a 
happy  thing  for  the  American  tourist,  if  at  every  foreign  port  he 
could  meet  with  such  a  representative  of  his  country ;  but  this 
is  too  much  to  expect.  It  is  enough  to  say  that  a  more  thorough 
gentleman  and  warmer-hearted  man  than  Mr.  Vesey  cannot  be 
found ;  and  his  appointment  to  this  valuable  and  important  post 
reflects  honor  on  President  Pierce's  administration  ;  while  the 
retention  of  Mr.  Vesey  as  consul  at  Antwerp,  despite  his  politics, 
was  one  of  the  many  acts  which  adorned  the  official  career  of 
that  pure  patriot  and  enlightened  statesman,  Millard  Fillmore. 
Mr.  Vesey  and  our  American  fellow-citizens  resident  in  Havre 
were  much  gratified  at  our  arrival,  and  felt  proud  of  their  country 
when  they  saw  this  noble  specimen  of  naval  architecture,  and  the 
property  of  a  private  American  citizen,  and  could  point  to  her 
owner  as  a  merchant  prince,  who,  by  the  force  of  character 
and  enterprise,  had  made  his  way  from  obscurity  to  a  place 
beside  the  noblest  and  wealthiest  of  the  old  countries  of  Europe. 
We  were  gratified  to  notice  a  large  number  of  noble  ships  bearing 
the  starry  banner  of  freedom.  Several  of  their  commanders 
soon  came  on  board,  and  with  them  my  good  friend  Captain 
Wood,  of  the  packet-ship  Germania,  and  his  excellent  wife,  and 
their  little  girl.      The   entrance  to    the  docks  is  fine,   and  the 

point  his  countrymen,  and  assured  us  that  we  were  all  right.  "  I  know 
him,"  said  Eldridge,  "  and,  my  word  for  it,  Wotton  will  come  to."  The  pre- 
diction was  verified,  and  our  friends  at  home  owed  their  letters  to  the  kind- 
heartedness  of  the  captain  of  the  Franklin. 

14 


162  HAVKE  —  IIISTOlilCAL    ASSOCIATIONS, 

appearance  of  the  old  portion  of  the  town,  its  vast  amount  ff 
shipping,  its  venerable  fort,  and  high  hills  off  to  the  right,  and 
covered  with  villas  overhanging  the  town,  is  one  not  soon  to  be 
forgotten  by  a  stranger  who  gazes  at  it.  On  our  left  was 
the  charming  Marine  Hotel  of  Frescati,  with  its  garden  and 
bathing-ground  directly  in  front.  Havre  is  comparatively  a 
modern  city;  it  was  established  as  a  town  by  Francis  I.,  in 
1516,  who  built  the  ancient  tower  at  the  left  bank  of  the  port. 
The  present  population  is  about  eighty  thousand,  and  it  is  now 
in  a  career  of  rapid  progress  and  improvement.  The  docks  are 
large,  finely  built,  and  numerous.  Hundreds  of  men  are  now  at 
work  on  a  dry  dock  of  large  dimensions.  The  importance  of 
this  place  is  at  once  seen  by  reference  to  the  map  of  France, 
when  its  relations  to  Paris  and  Rouen,  as  a  port  of  entry,  will 
appear.  The  large  number  of  Americans,  resident  and  sea- 
faring, to  be  met  in  the  streets,  renders  it  a  pleasant  spot  to  the 
wanderer  from  his  own  happy  home  in  the  far  west,  Havre  is 
rich,  too,  in  its  historical  associations.  It  was  from  this  place 
that  the  Earl  of  Richmond  sailed  when  he  went  to  England  to 
contest  its  crown  with  the  hunchbacked  Richard,  in  1485.  It 
was  here,  too,  that  the  gallant  Sir  Sidney  Smith,  the  hero  of 
Acre,  was  captured  by  the  gun-boats  in  1796,  when  he  had 
grounded  upon  a  sand-bank  in  an  effort  to  cut  out  a  French 
frigate.  In  Havre  was  born  the  famous  St.  Pierre,  who  wrote 
the  charming  tale  of  Paul  and  Virginia.  Havre  has  nine  quays, 
and  a  vast  number  of  public  fountains.  The  church  of  Notre 
Dame  is  not  at  all  remarkable,  but  has  a  fine  organ,  which  was 
the  gift  of  Cardinal  Richelieu.  The  Palais  de  Justice  is  a  plain 
edifice.  The  Ursuline  Convent  is  a  lai'ge  building,  and  the  nuns 
are  engaged  in  the  education  of  young  ladies ;  and  very  often 
English  girls  are  placed  here,  under  the  preposterous  idea  that 
these  ignorant  women  can  enlighten  them.  What  Protestant, 
with  his  eyes  open,  would  trust  his  daughter  to  the  care  of 
women  who  believe  that  there  is  no  salvation  out  of  the  Church 


INGOUVILLE — AMERICAN   RESIDENTS.  163 

of  Rome,  and,  if  honest,  must  therefore  take  every  opportunity 
to  make  proselytes  of  the  children  under  their  influence  ?  We 
took  carriages  to  explore  the  town,  and,  after  riding  through  its 
principal  streets,  many  of  which  are  very  good,  we  ascended 
one,  which,  after  an  ascent  of  half  a  mile,  through  a  road  which 
presented  the  noblest  stone  walls  we  ever  saw  of  similar  extent, 
wc  arrived  at  the  Cote,  where,  on  a  vast  elevation,  are  the  exqui- 
site residences  of  the  wealthy.  I  think  this  part  of  the  town  is 
called  Ingouville.  Here  are  terraces,  gardens  and  pleasure- 
grounds,  laid  out  in  the  most  tasteful  manner.  Homes  of  greater 
beauty  are  nowhere  to  be  seen.  I  think  it  would  be  hard  to 
meet  with  sweeter  models  for  country  residences ;  and  as  for  the 
gardens,  trees,  shrubs  and  flowers,  now  all  in  gayest  garniture 
and  brightest  bloom,  they  are  types  of  Eden.  I  visited  an 
x\merican  lady,  whose  house  is  on  this  paradisiacal  spot,  and,  as 
I  gazed  on  her  beauteous  Yankee  children  and  saw  the  elegant 
associations  of  her  foreign  home,  I  rejoiced  at  the  comforts  which 
alleviate  her  absence  from  early  friends  and  the  haunts  of  child- 
hood. Her  husband  met  us  at  his  gate,  and  we  thought  that, 
with  such  a  home,  such  a  family,  and  a  prosperous  business,  Mr. , 

f e  must  be  a  happy  man,     I  longed  to  visit  Harfleur,  once 

a  Roman  station,  and  long  in  the  possession  of  the  English  ;  but 
time  forbade  me.  All  around  I  could  see  that  beauty  invited 
me  to  become  a  wayside  wanderer.  I  yearned  to  ramble  over  to 
Tancarville,  on  the  Seine,  about  twenty  miles  off",  and  where  I 
know,  from  the  accounts  of  early  friends,  there  are  charming 
ruins  and  the  most  enchanting  views.  It  was  at  Tancarville  that 
the  Meluns,  the  Harcourts,  and  the  Dunois,  became  the  worthy 
successors  of  the  Chamberlaines,  the  fellow-warriors  of  Williaff 
the  Conqueror. 

•  It  was  a  boyish  notion  of  mine  to  walk  through  Normandy ; 
and  there  are  few  things  I  would  like  better  than  to  spend  three 
or  four  months  in  such  a  pilgrimage,  even  now.  These  walking 
tours  are,  after  all,  the  thing  to  make  a  man  know  a  country,  and 


164  DEPARTURE   FOR   PARIS  —  POISSY. 

remem'jer  it  forever.  Give  me  the  treasures  which  it  affords  to 
memory,  the  play  it  gives  to  imagination,  the  illustrations  it 
contributes  to  historical  association,  and  I  will  let  who  may 
choose  it  travel  by  railroad  speed  through  a  land,  and  know 
nothing  that  is  valuable,  and  see  little  that  he  can  remember  in 
mture  life. 

From  Havre  we  started  for  Paris,  and  the  route  is  upon  the 
banks  of  the  Seine.  Of  all  railroad  routes  that  I  am  acquainted 
with,  I  regard  this  as  the  most  pleasant  one  I  ever  travelled. 
I  cannot  conceive  of  more  rural  happiness  and  comfort  than 
appears  to  be  spread  over  the  glorious  fields  of  Normandy,  and 
between  Havre  and  Rouen.  The  country  is  for  more  wooded 
than  I  had  supposed,  or  had  seen  in  other  parts  of  France,  in 
former  travels.  From  Rouen  to  Paris  we  passed  through  many 
spots  of  interest.  I  must  not  omit  to  mention  Poissy,  where  the 
infamous  Charles  IX.,  and  his  more  infamous  mother,  Catherine 
de  Medici,  met  in  conference,  in  1561,  with  the  great  divines  of 
the  Catholic  and  Protestant  churches.  This  town  is  thirty  miles 
from  Paris.  Certainly  the  country  appears  to  be  prosperous,  — 
•the  farms  are  well  cultivated,  and  the  residences  gave  an  idea 
of  far  more  enjoyment  and  comfort  than  many  of  our  party 
expected  to  see. 

Our  entire  party  went  to  Paris,  excepting  Mr.  Vanderbilt, 
who  was  indisposed,  and  preferred  to  remain  for  a  quiet  day  on 
board  the  yacht. 


CHAPTER  XII. 

HOTEI^  —  HOX.  S.  G.  GOODRICH  —  AMERICAN   CLERGY  IN   EUROPE — REVIE-VT 

REV.  ROBERT   LOVETT   AND    HIS    CHAPEL CONFERENCE  OP    AMERICANS 

METHODIST    CHAPEL LOUVRE JARDIN   DES    PLANTES PALAIS     DE 

JUSTICE FLOWER-MARKET  HOTEL    DE    CLUNT ENGLISH    FRIENDS 

VEFSAILLES GARDEN    OF  THE    TUILLERIES  AND  CHAMPS  ELTSEES PONT 

NEUF  AND  OLD  PARTS  OF  PARIS HOTEL  DE  VILLE CHURCHES ROYAL 

LIBRARY GOBELINS ST.     DENIS NEUILLY  CHAPELLE     ST.     FERDI- 
NAND   CHAPELLE    EXPIATOIRE FONTAINEBLEAU. 

On  reaching  Paris,  we  found  the  weather  as  hot  as  it  gener- 
ally is  in  any  of  our  Atlantic  cities  in  August.  We  were  soon 
stationed  in  comfortable  hotels  —  as  the  Hotel  du  Khin,  in  the 
Place  Vendome,  and  the  Hotel  d'Albion.  I  took  up  quarters  at 
the  Hotel  Windsor,  on  the  Kue  Kivoli,  where  I  put  up  in  1835, 
and  afterwards  in  1851.  And,  strange  as  it  may  appear,  I  have 
on  every  occasion  had  the  same  suite  of  rooms,  so  that  I  had  here 
quite  the  home  feeling.  This  is  a  capital  house,  and  its  landlord 
all  a  traveller  can  wish.  My  first  business  was  to  call  on  our 
distinguished  fellow-citizen,  the  Hon.  S.  Gr.  Goodrich,  late  United 
States  Consul  in  Paris,  and  still  discharging  the  duties  of  con- 
sulate till  the  arrival  of  his  successor.  Peter  Parley  is  a  man 
of  whom  his  country  ought  to  be  proud ;  he  has  done  more  for 
the  instruction  of  his  young  countrymen  than  any  other  living 
man.  He  has  been  the  author  to  whose  pen  every  section  of 
our  land  has  been  indebted  for  the  reading  of  its  children  and 
youth.  A  few  years  ago,  the  State  of  Louisiana  and  the  city  of 
New  Orleans  paid  him  public  honors  rarely  ever  equalled  upon 
our  continent ;  and  when  Mr.  Goodrich  was  sent  abroad  as  Con- 
Bul  at  Pari'i,  every  one  acknowledged  the  fitness  of  the  homage 
14# 


166  HON.    S.    G.    GOODKICH. 

done  to  talent,  and  genius,  and  high  patriotic  spirit.  On  his 
arrival  in  the  French  metropolis,  Mr.  Goodrich  found  his  coun- 
trymen nest  door  to  being  without  any  representation.  Instead 
of  shutting  himself  up,  and  keeping  his  fellow-citizens  at  an  un- 
approachable distance,  and  aping  an  etiquette  which  a  British 
plenipotentiary  would  hardly  establish,  he  at  once  made  his  resi- 
dence a  pleasant  resort  for  all  his  countrymen,  and  every  Friday 
evening  he  had  a  soiree  for  his  friends,  where  the  New  Eng- 
lander,  Pennsylvanian,  South  Carolinian  or  Louisianian,  was  sure 
to  meet  with  a  hearty  welcome,  and  where,  for  the  evening, 
an  American  felt  sure  that  he  had  one  representing  his  country  in 
Paris  to  whom  he  could  look  with  pride  and  pleasure,  and  on 
whom  he  could  rely  for  advice  and  assistance  in  any  emergency. 
There,  too,  American  ladies,  when  in  Paris,  met  with  friendly 
and  serviceable  attentions  from  Mrs.  Goodrich  and  her  accom- 
plished daughters.  Americans  abroad  felt  the  importance  of 
having  such  a  man  retained  at  this  post.  Numerous  signatures 
were  attached  to  a  representation  of  the  earnest  desire  of  men 
of  all  parties  that  Mr.  Goodrich  might  be  retained.  His  services 
in  having  greatly  extended  the  business  of  the  office,  and  his 
merits,  were  urged  upon  the  attention  of  the  powers  that  be ;  but 
in  vain.  The  operation  of  such  a  measure  abroad  is  injurious. 
No  other  country  displays  such  antics,  and  plays  shuffle-board  in 
this  style.  I  have  no  doubt  that  Mr.  Goodrich's  successor  is  a 
most  worthy  man,  and  he  will  be  a  fortunate  and  enviable  one 
if,  at  the  termination  of  his  consular  life  in  Paris,  he  shall  possess 
one-half  the  reputation  which  Mr.  Goodrich  has  acquired  with 
all  who  have  witnessed  his  labors  and  the  spirit  in  which  they 
have  been  discharged. 

At  the  time  of  our  arrival  in  Paris  there  was  a  large  delega- 
tion of  American  ladies  and  gentlemen  in  the  city,  and  it  was 
very  pleasant  to  meet  some  intimate  friends.  The  Rev.  Drs. 
Crocker^  of  Providence;  Lamson,  of  Dedham ;  Krebbs,  of  New 


REVIEW  —  REV.    MR.    LOVETT.  167 

York;  Vinton,  of  J3oston;  Bishop  Mcllvaine,  of  Ohio,  and  llev. 
Messrs.  Kirlv,  Jameson,  Cook  and  Bidwell,  were  all  here. 

A  party  was  made  up  to  visit  Versailles,  in  the  vicinity  of 
which  a  great  review  was  to  take  place.  The  excursion  was 
exceedingly  agreeable^  and  the  pleasure  of  the  day  was  enhanced 
by  the  company  of  my  valued  friend  and  former  pupil, 
Robert  Schell,  Esq.,  his  lady  and  her  sister.  The  emperor  was 
not  present,  as  expected,  but  a  large  body  of  soldiers  was  under 
arms,  and  the  Minister  of  War,  with  other  generals,  conduct^ 
the  operations  of  the  day.  A  sham  fight  followed.  The  ladies 
were  very  much  interested  in  the  various  manoeuvres  of  the 
skirmishing  parties.  A  very  large  company  of  spectators  was  on 
the  ground.  Departing  from  this  gay  and  one-sided  view  of  war, 
we  betook  ourselves  to  an  excellent  cafe,  and  enjoyed  our  dinner; 
after  which,  the  party  had  a  delightful  stroll  through  the  palace 
grounds  and  gardens,  and  then,  resuming  the  carriages,  returned 
to  Paris,  having  passed  an  exceedingly  pleasant  day.  The  ex- 
amination of  the  palace  was  deferred  for  another  day.  It  was 
with  great  pleasure  that  I  met  my  friend,  Mr.  Henry  T.  Parker, 
of  Boston,  with  whom  I  had  been  in  Europe  in  1851,  A  pleasant 
day  spent  with  him  in  the  Palais  Royal,  I  shall  not  soon  forget. 
On  the  Sabbath  day  I  attended  divine  service  at  the  Episcopal 
church,  in  the  Marboeuf  chapel,  the  minister  of  which  is  the  Rev, 
Robert  Lovett,  chaplain  to  the  Right  Honorable  the  Earl  of 
Rosse.  This  gentleman  has  occupied  this  important  post  about 
twenty-five  years.  The  congregation  was  large  and  very  respect- 
able ;  every  seat  was  occupied,  and  I  think  the  audience  was 
between  five  and  six  hundred.  The  service  was  read  in  a  very 
impressive  manner.  I  do  not  recollect  that  I  ever  heard  it 
better  read,  —  the  prayers  were  prayed,  not  said.  The  text  was 
Psalm  93:  5,  —  "Thy  testimonies  are  very  sure;  holiness  be- 
cometh  thy  house,  0  Lord,  forever,"  The  sermon  was  delivered 
without  notes,  —  it  was  simple,  earnest,  evangelical,  and  adapted 
to  usefulness.     We  were  very  much  gratified,  and,  if  we  were  to 


168  CONFERENCE    OF   AMERICANS  —  LOUVRE. 

remain  in  Paris,  I  think  I  should  seek  no  further  for  a  Sabbath 
sitting.  After  service,  I  had  a  pleasant  interview  with  Mr. 
Lovett  in  the  vestry ;  he  told  me  that  on  the  last  Lord's  day 
Bishop  Mcllvaine  had  preached  a  most  excellent  sermon  in  his 
pulpit.  I  would  strongly  recommend  travellers,  when  in  Paris, 
to  attend  the  ministry  of  this  "  good  minister  of  Jesus  Christ." 

In  the  afternoon  I  met  a  number  of  American  ministers  and 
friends  at  the  residence  of  Mrs.  Deraing,  to  consult  upon  the 
advisableness  of  the  establishment  of  an  American  chapel  in 
Paris.  I  have  no  doubt  that  this  is  a  desirable  measure ;  and, 
if  a  place  of  worship  could  be  procured,  and  a  suitable  minister 
placed  in  it,  I  think  the  advantages  Avhich  would  result  from  the 
institution  would  be  numerous  and  certain.  A  large  number  of 
young  business  men  are  always  in  Paris,  and  a  minister,  with  a 
home,  would  be  of  incalculable  service  to  the  hundreds  of  Ameri- 
cans who  sojourn  in  this  great  city.  In  the  evening  I  officiated 
at  the  English  Methodist  chapel,  in  the  Rue  Royale,  very  near 
the  Church  of  the  Madeleine.  The  congregation  was  as  large  as 
the  chapel  would  hold,  but  it  is  quite  a  small  one. 

We  devoted  a  da}'  to  the  Louvre,  which  is  now  in  fine  con- 
dition, having  undergone  entire  reparation  ;  the  gildings  are 
fresh,  and  the  frescoed  ceilings  are  looking  as  if  they  were  just 
executed. 

The  great  picture  of  Murillo's,  which  was  purchased  from 
Marshal  Soult's  estate,  and  cost  more  than  one  hundred  and 
twenty  thousand  dollars,  is  now  in  this  gallery ;  it  is  a  wondrous 
production,  and  it  is  difficult  to  believe  that  it  is  not  a  new  pic- 
ture, the  colors  are  so  very  brilliant.  The  subject  is  the  Assump- 
tion of  the  Virgin.  Here  are  some  glorious  pictures,  but  I  miss 
many  that  charmed  me  long  years  ago.  I  am  always  pleased 
with  the  pictures  of  Philippe  de  Champaigne  ;  his  portraits  have 
an  individuality  about  them,  and  I  feel  that  they  must  have  been 
likenesses.  Two  of  his  portraits  of  old  French  royalty  were 
once  in  New   York,  and  I  remember  them  ofiered  somewhere 


JARDIN   DES   PLANTES.  169 

for  sale,  and  "wondered  that  'hey  were  not  taken  up.  If  I  am 
not  mistaken,  they  were  at  the  Clinton  House  when  it  was  kept 
by  its  fine  old  host,  Mr.  Hodges.  The  chefs-d'osuvre  of  this 
great  collection  have  been  so  often  engraved,  that  the  enumera- 
tion of  the  sources  of  pleasure  connected  with  the  originals  seems 
unnecessary.  The  apartments  devoted  to  sculpture  are  immense, 
and  the  arrangement  was  made  chiefly  by  Denon.  In  them  are 
about  fifteen  hundred  statues,  busts,  bas-reliefs,  altars,  brackets, 
candelabras,  sarcophagi,  &c.  I  was  pleased  with  some  exquisite 
gates  of  steel,  finely  carved,  belonging  to  the  days  of  Henry  II. 
In  the  Mnsee  Grrecque  et  Egyptien  are  vast  treasures  of  mosaic, 
chalices,  porcelain  ;  and  here,  or  in  some  other  part  of  the  build- 
ing, I  was  charmed  with  a  bas-relief,  the  production  of  Benvenuto 
Cellini,  executed  for  Francis  I.  In  this  part  of  the  Louvre  are 
about  thirty  saloons,  into  many  of  which  strangers  rarely  enter. 
Our  friend  Dr.  Linsly  was  exceedingly  laborious  during  our  stay 
in  Paris.  Every  morning  he  was  up  at  five  and  ofi"  to  the  hos- 
pitals, where,  through  the  courtesy  of  the  professors  and  surgeons, 
he  was  taken  through  the  daily  walks,  and  had  a  fine  opportunity 
to  see  the  treatment  of  hundreds  of  patients  by  the  renowned 
physicians  and  great  surgeons  of  this  celebrated  medical  school. 
We  had  a  very  delightful  occasion  on  one  day  here,  wherr  Dr. 
Linsly  and  I  had  the  pleasure  to  have  Mr.  Goodrich  and  his 
family  as  our  guests,  and  we  sat  down  quite  a  large  party.  Our 
visit  to  the  Jardin  des  Plantes  was  on  a  fine  day,  and  this  noble 
institution  appeared,  I  thought,  more  attractive  than  I  had  ever 
beheld  it.  We  went  to  it  by  crossing  the  fine  iron  Bridge  of 
Austerlitz,  —  it  has  five  arches.  The  garden  was  established  in 
1635  by  Louis  XIII.,  and  the  talents  of  the  greatest  naturalists 
of  Europe  have  been  placed  under  contribution  to  make  it  what 
it  is,  —  the  most  famous  garden  on  the  continent.  It  has  been 
the  scene  of  labor  for  Herouard,  De  la  Brosse,  Tournefort, 
Vaillant,  Jussieu  and  his  son,  Buffon,  and  more  recently  the 
illustrious   Cuvier  has  devoted   to  it  his  great  talents.     When 


n")  PALAIS    DE    JUSTICE. 

revolutionary  barbarism  devastated  the  city,  this  spot  fortunately 
escaped  dastruction,  and  Bonaparte  took  it  into  his  special  favor. 
The  care  of  this  garden  and  its  valuable  adjuncts  is  in  the  charge 
of  the  Minister  of  the  Interior. 

The  Botanical  Garden,  its  noble  conservatories,  museum  of 
natural  history,  anatomical  gallery,  laboratories,  lecture-rooms 
and  menagerie  of  animals,  birds,  &c.,  constitute  a  combination  of 
advantages  for  study  that  no  other  capital  in  the  world  presents  to 
the  enthusiast  in  natural  science.  The  menagerie  was  brought 
here  from  Versailles,  by  Louis  XVI.  The  palm-trees  are  in 
fine  condition,  and  date  back  to  the  days  of  Louis  XIV. ;  and  the 
tropical  plants  are  in  conservatories,  kept  warm  by  steam-pipes. 
I  was  glad  to  see  again  the  glorious  cedar  of  Lebanon  planted 
in  1734.  One  gallery,  that  of  natural  history,  is  more  than  four 
hundred  feet  long ;  and  in  the  cabinet  of  comparative  anatomy 
are  more  than  fifteen  thousand  specimens,  all  arranged  by  Barou 
Cuvier.  Haydon  was  quite  right  when  he  said  that  the  Jardin 
des  Plantes  was  "a  place  of  Roman  magnificence."  On  our 
return  we  saw  the  Halle  aux  Vins,  or  great  wine-depot ;  here 
are  about  five  hundred  and  fifty  thousand  casks  of  wine,  and  two 
thousand  casks  frequently  come  in  during  a  single  day.  This  is 
the  custom-house  for  wine,  and  the  excise  duties  on  wine  are 
here  paid  on  the  sale  of  the  article. 

Our  visit  to  the  Palais  de  Justice  was  very  interesting.  This 
building  is  as  old  as  Notre  Dame,  and  was  formerly  the  royal 
residence  ;  indeed,  as  late  as  the  days  of  Francis  I.  The  present 
front  was  built  in  17G0.  Here  is  a  vast  gallery  of  more  than 
two  hundred  feet  by  about  eighty,  in  which  the  clients  may  per- 
ambulate whilst  their  cases  are  going  on  in  court ;  and  here  is  a 
monument  to  the  courageous  Malesherbes,  the  advocate  of  Louis 
XVI.  The  courts  of  law  are  venerable  halls,  but  too  small  for 
the  demands  of  the  city.  The  Conciergerie  was  the  prison  used 
for  state  purposes  when  the  Palais  was  a  royal  mansion.  It 
was  from  this  place  that  Lavalette  escaped,  aided  by  his  heroic 


I'LOWEK-MAllKET.  171 

wife  and  Sir  llobert  Wilson.  Ilei-e  Mario  Antoinette  was  con- 
fined ;  but  the  cell,  which  was  made  by  Louis  XVIIl.  into  an 
expiatory  chapel,  was  destroyed  in  the  revolution  of  1830.  Sad 
scenes  of  blood  and  murder  were  witnessed  here  in  1792.  We 
were  greatly  interested  here  with  the  Sainte  Chapellc,  altogether 
the  finest  Gothic  relic  in  Paris.  It  was  built  1215,  as  a  sanctum 
to  receive  the  true  cross  and  crown  of  thorns,  purchased  from 
the  Greek  emperor  by  St.  Louis.  The  condition  of  this  chapel 
is  wonderful,  considering  its  great  antiquity.  The  glass  windows 
are  perfect  treasures  of  art,  and  look  as  if  just  executed.  The 
chapel  is  unique,  and  is,  I  think,  one  of  the  greatest  curiosities 
in  Paris.  It  is  at  present  receiving  a  perfect  renovation,  and 
will  be  the  noblest  architectural  bijou  in  Europe.  Boileau,  the 
great  satirist,  was  buried  here.  Close  by  is  the  Quai  Dessaix, 
where  the  great  flower-market  is  held,  and  to  which  we  paid  fre- 
quent and  charming  visits.  It  is  a  pleasant  thing  to  see  the 
almost  universal  passion  which  exists  for  flowers.  Go  through 
the  narrowest  streets  of  Paris,  and  at  the  windows  of  the  poor- 
est houses,  and  up  four  and  five  stories,  you  shall  see  pots  of 
green  things,  and  gay,  blooming  flowers.  I  like  to  watch  the 
faces  of  the  country  people  who  bring  in  the  flowers,  —  and  they 
are  here  by  hundreds ;  they  seem  to  be  alive  to  the  beauties  of 
nature;  they  look  as  though  they  had  gained  some  refinement 
from  their  a-azino;  on  these  faint  reflections  of  uncreated  excellence 
and  beauty.  And  then  I  was  delighted  to  see  the  feeling  of 
content  and  pride  with  which  a  man  in  blouse,  or  a  hard-work- 
ing woman,  or  a  poor  little  child,  would  carry  off  a  pot  of  some 
verdant  thing,  to  make  home  look  a  little  more  bright  and  cheer- 
ful. These  flower-markets  are  pretty  things,  and  they  are  good 
things,  too.  Bad  people  do  not  love  God's  handiworks,  and 
seldom  do  they  care  for  plants  and  flowers.  I  wish  that  parents 
would  cultivate  the  taste  for  beauty  and  the  love  of  nature  in 
their  children.  A  good  flower  and  a  fine  plant  are  far  better 
presents  for  a  child   than  a  noisy  drum,  a  cruel  sword,  and  a 


172  HOTEL    DE    CLUNY. 

miniature  gun.  Passive  impressions  lead  to  active  habits,  and 
many  a  fond  but  foolish  mother  has  contributed  her  aid  to  make 
her  darling  boy  food  for  bullets. 

I  managed  to  have  a  long  day  and  a  pleasant  party  at  my  old 
favorite  haunt,  the  Hotel  de  Cluny,  in  the  Rue  des  Mathurins. 
This  is  a  rare  spot,  and  one  that  I  never  feel  wearied  in  visiting. 
It  was  the  town  residence  of  the  influential  Abbots  of  Cluny, 
a  Benedictine  monastery  at  Cluny,  and,  before  the  revolution,  it 
had  six  hundred  houses  in  connection  with  it,  and  an  income  of 
three  hundred  thousand  francs.  It  was  built  in  1480,  on  the 
ruins  of  the  Roman  Palais  de  Thermes,  where  Julian  made  it 
his  palace  in  360.  Here  many  a  Pope  has  had  a  home  when 
visiting  France,  and  here  did  the  Abbess  of  Port  Royal  and  her 
nuns  find  a  resting-place  from  1579  to  1584.  In  this  glorious 
old  spot  lived  Mary,  daughter  of  Henry  VII.  of  England,  and 
widow  of  Louis  XII.  of  France ;  and,  while  living  here,  she 
was  privately  married  to  the  Duke  of  Suffolk,  and  it  was  from 
this  event  that  the  claim  of  poor  Lady  Jane  Gray  was  laid  to 
the  crown  of  England.  Between  forty  and  fifty  years  ago,  M. 
Du  Sommerard,  a  gentleman  of  great  antiquarian  taste,  pur- 
chased the  place,  and  expended  a  vast  property  in  collecting 
works  of  art  of  the  mediaeval  age,  the  whole  being  classified 
according  to  chronological  order.  At  his  death,  which  occurred 
a  few  years  ago,  the  French  government  wisely  determined  to 
purchase  the  hotel  and  its  unique  collection,  and  large  additions 
have  been  made  to  it  of  every  curiosity  that  can  serve  to  illus- 
trate the  early  history  of  the  country.  The  first  appearance  of 
this  edifice,  on  entering  the  court-yard,  is  very  striking.  It  has 
several  Gothic  turrets  and  rich  windows.  No  one  can  walk 
through  this  building  without  being  satisfied  that  the  Abbots  of 
Cluny  and  their  brethren  must  have  had  good  times  when  they 
came  up  to  court.  Room  after  room  is  filled  with  bas-reliefs, 
sculpture,  carvings  and  casts.  The  furniture  of  the  14th,  15th 
and  16th  centuries,  is  in  great  profusion,  and  the  tapestry  is  very 


NEW   FRIENDS  —  VERSAILLES.  173 

beautiful  and  perfect.  Perhaps  there  are  no  cabinets  and  presses 
to  be  seen  in  Europe  that  are  more  exquisite  than  those  in  this 
museum.  We  went  from  one  saloon  to  another  in  the  upper 
story,  and  revelled  in  the  examination  of  the  richest  old  curios- 
ity-shop in  the  world.  The  catalogue  contains  nearly  two  thou- 
sand items,  and  weeks  of  study  might  be  spent  to  great  profit  in 
this  wonderful  place.  I  would  not  forget  to  say  that  the  handi- 
work of  Bernard  de  Palissy  is  here  in  great  plenty,  and  some  of 
the  superb  designs  of  Benevenuto  Cellini.  Cups,  goblets  and 
drinking-horns,  of  all  the  great  men  of  French  histoiy,  gems, 
enamels  and  armor,  abound,  and  porcelain  of  every  variety  and 
age.  A  small  chapel,  whose  ceiling  is  sustained  by  a  single 
shaft,  is  very  interesting,  and  the  carving  in  this  sanctuary 
describes  several  sacred  subjects.  Just  as  we  were  going  into 
this  charming  place,  I  met  with  a  venerable  English  lady  and 
her  female  companion,  and,  on  offering  her  my  arm  to  aid  her 
ascent  of  some  steep  steps,  we  entered  into  conversation.  I 
found  her  an  exceedingly  interesting  woman,  of  fine  taste,  and 
possessing  much  valuable  information.  We  went  through  the 
entire  collection  in  company,  and,  at  parting,  she  gave  us  a  kind 
and  pressing  invitation  to  visit  her  at  her  mansion  near  Plym- 
outh, in  Devonshire.  We  were  fortunate  in  meeting  with  very 
pleasant  people  at  our  hotel,  and  we  shall  always  look  back  with 
interest  on  an  acquaintance  which  we  formed  here  with  Captain 
Masters,  of  the  royal  navy,  and  his  son  and  daughter.  This 
gentleman  resides  at  East  Ryde,  on  the  Isle  of  Wight.  His  son 
was  a  Cambridge  man,  and  was  spending  the  vacation  in  travel. 
In  their  company  was  an  excellent  clergyman  of  the  English 
church,  the  Rev.  Mr.  Swainson.  With  these  friends  we  arranged 
for  a  visit  to  Versailles.  On  this  occasion,  we  took  the  railroad, 
and  in  the  cars  found  a  large  school  of  noble-looking  boys  in 
uniform,  attended  by  a  bevy  of  tutors  —  priests,  in  clerical  cos- 
tume.    They  were  bound  to  the  grand  reviews. 

Versailles  has  been  so  often  described  that  I  need  only  say 
15 


174  VERSAILLES — SCULPTURE    AND    PAINTING. 

that,  though  I  have  been  through  its  splendor  again  and  again,  1 
found  it  full  of  interest.  The  palace  is  now  used  as  a  grand 
receptacle  of  the  objects  which  minister  to  national  pride.  Louis 
Philippe  turned  his  attention  to  this  palace,  and  gathered 
together  in  these  gorgeous  saloons  all  the  pictorial  history  of 
France.  Verily,  this  is  the  place  to  study  the  history  of  this 
great  country  ;  and,  when  I  look  at  the  magnificent  portraiture  of 
the  personal  career  of  the  great  emperor,  I  cannot,  for  a  moment, 
doubt  that  Louis  Philippe  did  more  than  any  other  person  to 
create  that  wave  of  popular  feeling  which  carried  the  present  Napo- 
leon into  his  imperial  throne.  I  do  not  think  that  any  other 
nation  has  such  an  illustration  of  its  ancient  and  modern  history 
as  this. 

The  works  of  sculpture  which  pleased  us  best  were  a  Joan  of 
Arc,  sculptured  by  a  deceased  daughter  of  Louis  Philippe,  and 
bearing  her  cypher ;  Cardinal  de  Retz ;  Chancellor  L'Hospital ; 
Sully ;  the  late  Duke  of  Orleans,  by  Pradier,  of  Geneva ;  Cardinal 
Mazarin  and  Colbert,  by  Coyzevox;  Moliere,  by  Houdon,  the 
sculptor  who  made  the  noble  statue  of  Washington  at  Richmond ; 
Fenelon  and  General  Washington,  by  Houdon ;  Napoleon  and 
Ney,  by  the  same ;  Marshal  Davoust,  by  Bosio  ;  Bossuet,  Coligny. 

In  the  saloons  of  paintings,  we  were  much  gratified  with  those 
descriptive  of  the  Crusades,  the  Battle  of  St.  Jacques,  by 
Johannot,  —  this  is  a  noble  piece;  the  Interview  of  the  Camp  of 
the  Drap  d'Or,  by  the  younger  Debay ;  the  Battle  of  Ivry,  by 
Steuben ;  the  Instituting  of  the  French  Academy,  in  1634,  — 
a  most  spirited  picture,  with  capital  drawing,  by  H.  Lecompte. 
The  Passage  of  the  Rhine,  1672,  has  employed  several  artists; 
I  prefer  the  one  painted  by  P.  Franque.  Napoleon  receiving 
the  Senatus  Consulte,  at  St.  Cloud,  on  his  proclamation  as 
Emperor,  1804,  by  Rouget,  is  good.  A  picture  that  I  cannot 
forget  was  Napoleon  receiving  at  the  Louvre,  after  his  coronation, 
the  deputation  from  the  army.  The  Proclamation  of  the  Lieu- 
tenant Greneral,  read  at  the  Hotel  de  Ville,  1830,  and  a  Cele- 
bration of  Mass  by  the  Pope  and  Cardinals,  are  full  of  interest. 


GARDENS    OF   THE   TUILLERIES.  175 

But  why  should  I  particularize  ?  for  here  are  more  than  two 
thousand,  and  of  these  probably  five  hundred  have  great  merit. 
The  recent  paintings,  by  Horace  Vernet,  illustrative  of  the  bat- 
tles in  Algiers,  are  vast  as  to  size,  and  deeply  interesting  in 
their  details  of  African  scenery,  and  exhibit  wonderful  brilliancy 
of  coloring.  Our  visit,  also,  to  the  great  and  little  Trianon,  was 
very  agreeable  ;  and  we  were  delighted  with  these  charming  little 
palaces,  where,  I  have  no  doubt,  more  comfort  has  been  experi- 
enced by  their  royal  owners  than  in  the  gorgeous  chateaux  close 
by.  Monarchs  are  but  men,  and,  like  other  people,  they  feel 
more  real  pleasure  in  homes  of  comfort  than  in  magnificent  and 
spacious  solitudes.  Bonaparte  loved  a  small  house,  and  once 
wrote  to  his  brother  at  Paris  to  get  him  one  ready  on  his  arrival 
from  Egypt ;  George  IV.  had  his  snuggery  close  by  the  glorious 
old  castle  at  Windsor,  and  Queen  Victoria  spends  her  happiest 
hours  at  Osborne  House,  which  is  a  modest  mansion,  not  equal 
to  many  gentlemen's  family  houses. 

The  garden  at  the  great  Trianon  pleased  me,  perhaps,  as  much 
as  anything  of  its  size  that  I  ever  saw,  and,  in  my  opinion,  is  far 
more  beautiful  than  the  gardens  of  the  great  palace  close  by. 
The  little  Trianon  we  all  felt  interested  in,  because  it  was  the 
favorite  retreat  of  Marie  Antoinette. 

After  dining  at  a  cafe',  we  took  the  rail  on  the  other  side  of 
the  Seine,  and,  riding  up  the  river,  had  a  good  view  of  St.  Cloud, 
and  passed  through  Sevres. 

The  walks  which  I  had  in  the  gardens  of  the  Tuilleries  and  in 
the  Champs  Elysees  are  all,  I  think,  become  parts  of  myself, 
and  will  be  forever  with  me.  The  exquisite  order  in  which 
everything  is  kept  delighted  me  ;  and  then  the  perfect  behavior 
of  the  thousands  who  resort  to  these  promenades  !  It  was  just 
the  right  season  to  enjoy  these  spots;  the  noble  orange-trees 
were  still  many  of  them  in  fragrant  blossom,  and  the  marble 
statues  beside  them  afibrded  a  fine  contrast.     It  is  the  fashion  to 


176  GARDENS   OF   THE   TUILLERIES. 

criticize  the  Tuilleries ;  but  I  must  always  admire  the  fine  long 
line  of  elegant  old  buildings. 

As  to  the  Champs  Eljsees,  it  is  a  place  to  think  in  and  to 
think  of,  but  cannot  be  described.  I  can  forgive  a  Parisian  for 
his  pride ;  he  has  whereof  to  glory,  indeed,  as  he  carries  his 
children  into  the  woody  walks  of  this  pleasure-ground  of  the 
people.  I  can  turn  from  the  thronged  street  and  be  instantly 
among  the  finest  flowers,  the  noblest  walks,  the  gayest  company 
and  the  prettiest  children ;  for,  although  I  do  not  think  the  women 
generally  handsome,  yet  the  children  are  very  beautiful.  0,  these 
fountains  !  how  refreshing  is  the  spray  they  cast  off  so  freely  !  I 
cannot  express  myself  in  reference  to  this  locality  more  happily 
than  by  quoting  a  description  given  of  it  by  Mr.  James  A.  K-ob- 
iuson,  who  was  one  of  my  young  travelling  companions  in  1851. 
He  said,  writing  to  a  friend  :  "  Turn  round,  and  look  at  the  gar- 
dens we  have  left.  There,  see  the  long,  low  Tuilleries,  the  palace 
of  the  Bourbons,  the  home  of  Napoleon,  the  residence  of  the 
Citizen  King,  and  now  the  Palace  National.  Off  to  the  right  is 
the  Seine,  and  its  long  line  of  quays ;  here  is  the  bridge,  and  just 
across  it  is  the  chamber  of  the  Assembly,  with  twelve  Corinthian 
columns.  To  our  left,  is  a  long,  stately  range  of  buildings, 
known  as  the  Ptue  Ptivoli,  in  which  we  reside ;  it  has  an  arched 
arcade  in  front  for  foot-passengers,  and  some  hundreds  of  col- 
umns to  support  and  adorn  it.  At  this  end  are  public  offices. 
Now  turn,  and  look  at  our  right ;  and  see,  a  street  cuts  through 
this  noble  row,  and,  at  its  end,  you  behold  the  pride  of  the  city, 
—  the  Madeleine.  There  it  is,  all  white,  and  its  stately  columns 
tell  of  Greece.  Now  gaze  upon  the  open  space  of  the  Champs 
Elysees,  and  look  down  through  that  splendid  avenue,  and  there 
see  the  finest  thing  in  Prance,  —  Bonaparte's  triumphal  arch." 

I  have  never  visited  Paris  without  having  my  admiration  of 
the  Pont  Neuf  increased.  It  is  my  favorite  stand-point.  The 
bridge  is  of  stone,  and  not  marked  by  any  architectural  beauty ; 
but  from  it  you  obtain  the  best  view  of  the  olden  portion  of  the 


HOTEL    DE    VILLE  —  CHURCHES.  177 

city,  and  here  is  the  finest  one  of  its  venerable  streets,  quays 
and  ancient  houses,  that  I  know  of.  The  buildings  are  very  old, 
—  six,  seven,  and  some  eight  stories  high.  The  He  de  la  Cite 
makes  two  streams  of  the  river,  and  olF  behind  all  stands  Notre 
Dame.  I  have  spent  hours  here,  looking  at  the  prospect  in 
early  morning  light,  and  in  the  glowing  colors  of  the  setting  sun  ; 
and  I  have  wandered  off  to  this  bridge  many  a  night  to  watch 
the  effect  of  the  moon  upon  these  relics  of  other  ages.  A  favor- 
ite walk  with  me  is  to  the  Hotel  de  Ville,  a  grand  old  edifice  of 
the  sixteenth  century.  It  was  on  the  Place  de  Greve,  in  front 
of  it,  that  the  bloody  scenes  of  the  revolution  were  enacted,  and 
here  stood  the  guillotine.  Perhaps  the  best  view  of  this  muni- 
cipal palace  is  had  from  the  quay  on  the  other  side  the  Seine. 
It  was  here  that  many  of  the  most  exciting  scenes  of  the  first 
revolution  transpired,  and  the  very  room  in  which  Robespierre 
held  his  counfcil  is  shown,  and  the  table  on  which  he  was  placed 
when  his  jaw  was  fractured  by  the  pistol-ball.  Very  near  to 
this  is  the  old  church  of  St.  Germain  I'Auxerrois,  said  to  have 
been  founded  by  Robert,  in  998.  The  part  which  remains  dates 
from  the  13th  century,  and  the  front  is  the  great  western  door- 
way. From  this  church  the  bell  sounded  out  which  summoned 
the  Catholics  to  the  infernal  butchery  of  the  Protestants,  on 
Bartholomew's  day,  1572,  —  a  work  of  piety  which  the  Pope, 
Gregory  XIII.,  approved,  and  in  honor  of  which  he  commanded 
a  medal  to  be  struck.  This  medal  is  scarce  ;  but  I  have  seen  it, 
and  the  following  is  the  inscription,  which  1  copied : 

Around  the  head :        gregorivs  xiii.  font.  max.  an.  ii. 
On  the  reverse  :  vgonottorvm.  strages  1572. 

This  medal  is  in  the  British  Museum,  among  the  Papal  medals. 
The  silver  medal  was  cast  in  the  first  year  of  his  Papacy,  and 
the  copper  one  in  the  second. 

We  visited  a  number  of  churches,  and  were  much  gratified  with 
St.  Germain  des  Pres,  St.  Sulpice  and  the  Pantheon,  —  which  last 
15^ 


178         ST.  SULPICE  —  ROYAL  LIBRARY. 

the  piety  of  Napoleon  III.  lias  again  put  into  the  hands  of  the 
priests.  It  is  now  dedicated  to  St.  Genevieve.  Certainly,  this 
is  a  most  charming  specimen  of  the  Grecian  style.  This  church 
is  three  hundred  and  two  feet  long,  by  two  hundred  and  fifty- 
five  in  width.  In  the  crypt  are  the  tombs  of  renowned  men. 
The  dome  is  lofty,  and  is  finely  painted,  by  Gros.  The  work  is 
principally  illustrative  of  French  history,  and  it  is  supposed  that 
some  sacred  subject  will  soon  take  the  place  now  devoted  to 
kings  and  queens.  The  portico  of  this  church  is  exceedingly 
impressive,  the  Corinthian  pillars  of  which  are  sixty  feet  high 
and  five  feet  in  diameter. 

The  portico  of  St.  Sulpice  is  truly  majestic ;  it  has  a  double 
row  of  columns.  I  am  always  gratified  in  looking  at  the  west 
front  of  this  fine  sanctuary.  No  traveller  should  fail  to  go  into 
this  church  to  see,  in  a  deep  recess  beyond  the  altar,  an  extraor- 
dinary sculpture  of  the  Virgin  and  her  Son,  in  marble.  They 
appear  with  the  globe  at  their  feet,  and  immediately  under  their 
feet  is  a  bruised  serpent.  Very  wonderful  is  the  effect  of  a  con- 
cealed light,  falling  upon  this  beautiful  work  of  art. 

A  wet  day  was  selected  for  a  visit  to  the  Royal  Library.  It 
is  in  a  central  situation,  and  the  entrance  is  from  the  Rue  Riche- 
lieu ;  the  building  occupies  a  square,  and  extends  to  other 
streets.  Very  dark  and  unpromising  are  its  walls ;  and,  when  I 
first  visited  Paris,  I  passed  it  in  full  faith  that  it  was  a  prison. 
I  was  desirous  to  see  the  bust  of  its  late  librarian,  the  renowned 
bibliopolist.  Van  Praet.  There  it  stands,  in  a  spot  where  he 
passed  his  useful  and  agreeable  life.  A  greater  enthusiast  never 
lived.  The  cabinet  of  medals  is,  in  many  respects,  unique,  and 
has  been  the  care  of  the  monarchs  of  France  since  the  days  of 
Francis  I.  Very  few  persons  obtain  access  to  the  ground-floor 
of  this  collection,  in  which  are  the  vases,  gems,  cameos,  and 
precious  works  of  art.  The  vase  of  Ptolemy  cannot  be  forgotten 
by  any  one  who  has  seen  it.  I  can  only  say  that  the  wondrous 
library  is  all  open  to  the  students'  use.  I  shall  not  attempt  a 
description  of  its  tomes ;  but  here  are  first  editions,  vellum  copies. 


OOBELIN.S  —  CHURCH  OF  ST.  DENIS.        179 

rare  Boccacios,  unaccountable  Dantes,  impossible  to  be  found ; 
Virglls,  and  not-to-be-understood  first  editions  of  Homer,  as  poor 
Haydon,  in  his  charming  autobiography,  said  of  Lord  Spencer's 
library.  On  this  visit,  I  was  most  attracted  by  the  large  collec- 
tion of  prints,  which  comprises  all  the  successive  periods  of  art. 
The  accommodations  for  these  matchless  engravings  are  far  too 
contracted.  I  found  that  there  were  more  than  eleven  thousand 
bound  volumes  of  prints.  The  library  of  3ISS.  is  very  rich,  and 
I  should  enjoy  a  week  spent  in  rummaging  these  old  cabinets  and 
presses,  where  are  missals  bound  and  illustrated  as  the  piety  of 
other  ages  deemed  fitting  for  books  of  devotion.  On  a  former 
visit  I  saw  many  of  the  rare  and  early  editions.  Only  a  book- 
worm can  understand  the  gratifications  of  hours  and  days  passed 
in  this  quiet  retreat.  There  are  some  twenty  or  thirty  other 
libraries  of  great  interest  in  Paris ;  and  in  no  city  in  the  world 
can  a  literary  man  obtain  all  the  information  that  he  needs  with 
so  much  ease  as  in  this  capital. 

Our  visit  to  the  Gobelins  was  a  source  of  much  pleasure.  I 
am  happy  to  say  that  this  interesting  manufactory  is  now  receiv- 
ing the  patronage  of  the  government,  as  it  did  under  Napoleon 
and  Louis  Philippe.  We  found  a  large  number  of  workmen 
employed  upon  tapestry  and  carpets.  There  are  about  one  hun- 
dred magnificent  specimens  of  these  curiously-fabricated  pictures 
hanging  on  the  walls  of  spacious  apartments,  and  we  were  cour- 
teously shown  the  tapestries  in  course  of  execution.  I  am  not 
mechanic  enough  to  attempt  a  description  of  the  process  which  is 
employed.  A  son  of  the  Emerald  Isle,  who  was  watching  the 
operation  of  making  a  grand  picture  from  a  Raphael,  brought 
here  from  the  Louvre  to  be  copied,  was  standing  near  us,  and 
broke  out,  "Holy  Father,  Jiramini !  what  a  thing  man  is  !  " 

A  very  beautiful  day  invited  us  to  go  out  of  the  city,  and  we 
took  carriages  for  the  abbey  church  of  St,  Denis,  which  is  about 
four  or  five  miles  from  Paris  This  church  has  been  the  great 
burial-place  of  the  monarchs  of  France,  from  the  days  of  Dago- 


180  NEUILLY. 

bert,  in  580,  Louis  Philippe  laid  out  vast  sums  of  money  in 
restoring  this  church,  which  suiFered  sadly  in  the  first  revolution. 
It  is  a  truly  noble  structure  ;  and  we  entered  the  porch  with  a 
feeling  of  interest,  from  the  recollection  that  in  this  porch  Henrys 
IV.  made  his  abjuration  of  the  Protestant  cause.  The  west  front 
is  very  fine ;  it  has  two  towers,  and  over  the  great  gateway  is  a 
bas-relief  of  the  Judgment.  This  temple  is  one  of  the  most 
impressive  that  I  have  seen.  On  every  hand  are  monuments  of 
great  merit,  and  some  exceedingly  curious.  Directly  behind  the 
altar,  floats  the  oriflamme,  or  national  standard.  The  restoration 
appears  to  be  in  excellent  taste,  and  the  windows  are  among  the 
best  we  have  seen.  We  descended  into  the  crypt,  and  here  we 
found,  in  exact  chronological  order,  the  remains  of  the  kings 
from  Clovis  down,  or,  rather,  their  monuments ;  for  the  bodies  of 
many  were  taken  up  by  the  madmen  of  the  revolution,  in  1793. 
Some  of  the  sculpture  is  very  fine.  I  greatly  admired  the  kneel- 
in  o-  effigies  of  Francis  I.  and  Claude,  his  queen.  Here  is  also 
the  tomb  of  Charles,  Comte  d'Alencon,  who  fell  in  the  battle  of 
Cressy,  in  1346.  The  marbles  of  this  royal  charnel-house  are 
many  of  them  exceedingly  fine,  and  in  far  better  preservation 
than  I  had  expected.  The  many  chapels  on  the  aisles  are  ex- 
quisitely beautiful. 

On  leaving  the  abbey,  we  drove  to  Neuilly,  the  favorite  resi- 
dence of  Louis  Philippe.  This  delightful  spot  is  in  ruins,  it 
having  been  sacked  and  burned  by  the  Parisian  mob,  in  1848. 
We  walked  through  the  charming  grounds,  which  were  now  all 
staked  off,  ready  for  a  great  sale  of  the  property,  which  was  to 
take  place  soon.  The  severity  of  the  new  government,  in  confis- 
cating the  family  property  of  the  Orleans  dynasty,  is  a  lasting 
blot  upon  the  new  regime. 

The  chapel  dedicated  to  the  memory  of  the  Duke  of  Orleans, 
eldest  son  of  Louis  Philippe,  stands  not  far  from  the  Arc  de 
I'Etoile.  He  was  unfortunately  killed  by  being  thrown  from  his 
carriage,  July  13,  1842.     The  duke  was  carried  to  a  small  shop 


CHAPEL    OF   ST.    FERDINAND.  181 

opposite  the  scene  of  the  disaster,  and  there  laid  on  a  pal- 
let in  a  back  room.  He  lay  insensible  till  his  death,  which 
took  place  at  ten  minutes  past  four  p.  m.  This  chapel  is  dedi- 
cated to  St.  Ferdinand,  the  duke's  patron  saint,  and  was  built  by 
his  afflicted  father.  The  chapel  is  a  pretty  stone  edifice,  about 
fifty  feet  long,  by  twenty  in  height.  In  the  transept,  on  the 
left,  is  an  altar  to  St.  Ferdinand,  and  off  to  the  right  a  group 
representing  the  duke  upon  his  death-bed,  while  at  his  head  is  an 
angel  in  prayer.  This  exquisite  statue  of  the  angel  was  the 
work  of  his  sister,  the  Princess  Marie,  and  bears  the  initials  M. 
O.  The  rest  of  the  group  is  by  Triquetti.  In  front,  as  we 
enter,  is  the  altar  to  the  Virgin,  and  surmounting  it  is  a  statue 
of  the  Virgin  and  Child,  by  Triquetti.  Directly  behind  this 
altar,  we  went  down  three  or  four  steps,  and  entered  the  room  in 
which  the  duke  died.  This  is  very  plainly  furnished,  and  is 
used  as  the  sacristy.  Opposite  the  door  is  a  picture  the  size  of 
life,  by  Jacquand,  describing  the  tragic  scene.  The  duke  is 
lying  on  a  pallet,  physicians  supporting  his  head,  the  queen 
and  one  of  his  sisters  kneeling  at  his  side ;  the  king  is 
gazing  in  the  agony  of  hopeless  grief,  and  the  royal  Dukes 
D'Aumale  and  Montpensier,  and  Marshals  Soult  and  Gerard, 
Gruizot  and  a  priest,  fill  up  the  group.  In  this  room  I  noticed 
a  small,  gilt-framed  painting,  which  the  guide  informed  me  was 
the  only  article  saved  in  the  sacking  of  Neuilly,  and  was  de- 
posited here. 

A  neat  building  faces  the  door  of  the  chapel,  which  was 
intended  to  receive  the  royal  family  in  their  frequent  visits.  I 
observed  a  richly-embroidered  cushion,  which  was  the  work  of 
the  queen.  One  clock  here  has  the  hands  pointing  to  ten  min- 
utes to  twelve,  when  the  accident  happened;  and  another  clock 
opposite,  whose  hands  stand  at  ten  minutes  past  four,  when  the 
heir  apparent  of  this  beautiful  land  expired.  In  the  court  is  a 
cedar  of  Lebanon,  brought  home  from  the  Mount  by  the  Duke 
of  Orleans,  and  here  it  was  planted  by  his  son,  the  Count  do 


182  CHAPELLE    EXPIATOIRE. 

Paris,  I  do  not  envy  tlie  man  who  can  visit  this  spot  unmoved. 
And  this  is  all  the  real  estate  that  the  Orleans  family  is  per- 
mitted to  hold  in  France  ! 

We  next  drove  to  another  place  of  deep  historical  interest ;  it 
was  the  Chapelle  Expiatoire,  in  the  Rue  d'Anjou  St.  Honore. 
This  is  to  the  memory  of  Louis  XVI.  and  his  ill-fated  queen, 
and  stands  on  the  spot  where,  for  twenty-one  years,  their  remains 
were  interred,  till  they  were  exhumed,  and  carried  to  St.  Denis. 
As  you  enter  the  chapel,  on  the  right,  you  see  a  fine  statue  of 
Louis,  executed  by  Bossio.  Never  did  chisel  define  ermine  so 
delicately  as  on  this  marble ;  and  the  lace  scarf  and  frill-work  is 
like  lace  itself.  On  the  left  is  a  statue  of  Marie  Antoinette,  in 
a  kneeling  posture,  as  if  supplicating  Madame  Elizabeth  for  aid 
and  support,  who,  in  the  person  of  Religion,  stands  beside  her. 
The  queen's  face  is  almost  one  of  imploring  agony,  and  more  of 
earthly  emotion  than  heavenly  grace  is  depicted.  Descending  to 
the  crypt,  our  guide  pointed  out  the  four  columns  on  which  the 
chapel  rests,  and  which  serve  to  support  the  pillars  of  the  roof, 
and  told  us  that  within  those  vast  square  columns  were  enclosed 
the  remains  of  those  who  perished  in  the  revolution,  thrown  in 
a  promiscuous  heap,  and  mixed  with  quick-lime,  and  among  them 
was  the  saint-like  Princess  Elizabeth. 

Leaving  the  chapel,  we  begged  a  flower  from  the  garden. 
The  faithful  Swiss  guards  lie  on  either  side  of  the  garden,  and 
their  resting-place  is  marked  by  stone  columns.  These  two 
chapels  are  among  the  most  interesting  objects  we  have  visited 
in  Paris. 

In  former  visits,  I  had  not  been  to  the  Chateau  of  Fontaine- 
bleau,  but  had  only  j  issed  through  by  rail.  On  this  occasion, 
we  made  a  pleasant  party  with  some  valued  friends  from  New 
York,  and  went  out  for  a  long  summer  day.  The  railroad  goes 
through  a  fine  country,  rich  in  corn  and  pasturage ;  the  views 
are  bold,  some  of  the  hills  are  bordering  on  the  romantic, 
and  the  private  residences  are  many  of  them  very  beautiful. 


rONTAINEBLEAU.  183 

The  town  is  finely  situated  in  the  midst  of  the  extensive  forest. 
Fontainebleau  is  about  fifty  railes  from  Paris,  on  the  railroad  to 
Lyons.  On  our  arrival,  we  ordered  our  dinner  at  the  Hotel 
de  Lyons  for  four  o'clock,  and  then  started  for  the  palace.  This 
is  esteemed  the  most  beautiful  one  belonging  to  the  crown.  It 
has  been  built  at  different  periods,  but  has  been  put  together  in 
the  finest  taste,  and  the  parts  are  in  good  keeping.  This  was 
the  resort  of  several  of  the  early  kings,  but  the  present  chateau 
was  erected  by  Francis  I. ;  here  Charles  V.  was  received  by 
him,  and  here  poor  Biron  was  arrested  by  Henry  IV.  Like 
other  palaces,  it  has  been  a  scene  of  horrors ;  in  its  walls 
Monaldeschi  was  murdered.  Here,  too,  Louis  XIV.  signed  the 
revocation  of  the  edict  of  Nantes.  Napoleon  loved  Fontaine- 
bleau, and  here  he  passed  much  of  his  time.  He  made  it  the 
prison-house  of  Charles  IV.  of  Spain,  and  here  kept  the  Pope 
Pius  VII.  in  custody.  The  great  event  which  has  given  this 
palace  a  lasting  interest  was  the  abdication  of  Napoleon,  in  1814. 
Louis  Philippe  spent  vast  sums  in  the  restoration  of  this  palace ; 
and  everything  done  to  it,  as  it  regards  the  building  or  the  fur- 
niture, was  in  perfect  accordance  with  the  style  of  the  edifice. 

This  palace  is  very  extensive,  and  you  are  conducted  through 
vast  ranges  of  apartments.  I  was  most  pleased  with  the  rooms 
occupied  by  the  Pope,  and  with  the  private  apartments  of  the 
great  emperor.  The  table  on  which  he  signed  his  abdication  is 
a  plain  little  afiair,  not  worth  two  dollars  or  three  at  the  outside. 
It  is  covered  with  a  glass  case,  to  preserve  it  from  the  hands  of 
the  curiosity-hunters.  The  works  of  art  and  paintings  are  very 
numerous,  and  some  of  the  last  are  of  a  high  order.  The  great 
ball-room  is  a  very  noble  afiair  j  it  is  of  oak,  and  richly  gilt, 
and  equal  to  anything  I  have  seen  since  I  left  the  Winter 
Palace,  in  St.  Petersburg.  Some  portions  of  this  building  date 
back  to  the  eleventh  century,  and  the  chapel  on  th6  lower  floor 
is  said  to  have  been  consecrated  by  Thomas  a  Becket,  in  1169. 
Here  are  fine  gardens,  in  capital  order,  and  a  large  fish-pond, 


184  FOREST    OF    FONTAINEBLEAU. 

well  stocked  with  carp.  We  looked  with  intense  emotion  at  the 
stairway  of  the  chateau  where  Napoleon  took  his  farewell  of 
the  army.  That  must  have  been  the  hour  of  his  soul's  darkness. 
In  this  palace  Louis  Philippe  had  collected  the  entire  history 
of  France  from  its  earliest  records,  upon  Sevres  china  plates, 
which  are  here  framed,  and  suspended  on  the  walls  of  a  gallery. 
The  bedrooms  of  Henry  IV.  and  Mary  de  Medicis,  Louis  IX,, 
and  Marie  Antoinette,  are  fine  apartments.  In  this  queen's 
boudoir  is  a  vase  of  gold  and  ivory,  given  to  her  at  her  ill-starred 
marriage.  Here  is  a  vast  quantity  of  Gobelin  tapestry  ;  the 
history  of  Esther  is  one  of  the  subjects. 

A  very  severe  thunder-storm  kept  us  prisoners  for  some  time. 
On  its  passing  off,  we  repaired  to  the  hotel,  and  had  a  comfort- 
able dinner.  We  met  with  an  agreeable  travelled  gentleman 
at  the  table,  and,  after  finding  that  the  cosmopolite  was  a  New 
Yorker,  we  invited  him  to  join  our  party  for  a  visit  to  the  forest. 
We  had  a  large  carryall,  with  side  curtains.  The  driver  was 
communicative,  and  called  attention  to  the  most  famous  trees  of 
this  beautiful  spot.  I  think  some  of  the  oaks  transcend  in  beauty 
any  that  I  have  seen  before.  The  three  brothers  are  wondrous 
productions,  and  cannot  be  less  than  six  or  seven  hundred  years 
old.  Just  as  we  were  midway  in  the  forest,  it  began  to  rain 
furiously.  The  curtains  were  no  defence,  as  they  had  no  fasten- 
ings ;  and  we  proposed  that  the  ladies  should  sit  down  on  the 
floor  of  the  carriage,  and  we  would  protect  them  with  the  cush- 
ions as  far  as  possible,  and  then  over  all  we  threw  the  ladies' 
woollen  shawls.  Such  times  of  fun  and  laughter  I  have  rarely 
seen,  as  we  had  amid  the  storm,  thunder  and  lightning. 

Soon  after  our  return,  the  sun  shone  forth  brilliantly.  Our 
good  friend  Mr.  Leggett  will  not  soon  forget  his  ride  with  the 
young  ladies  in  the  forest  of  Fontainebleau.  This  forest  is  about 
thirty  miles  in  circumference,  and  contains  more  than  thirty-two 
thousand  acres.  The  scenery  is  very  diversified,  and  in  some 
parts  the  rocks  and  waterfalls  are  highly  romantic.     Wolves  are 


FOXTAINEBLEAU.  185 

stil)  troublesome  to  the  farmers,  and  a  price  is  yet  set  upon  their 
heads.  The  town  is  quite  pretty,  has  fine  clean  streets,  large 
shops ;  and,  if  I  wanted  to  sit  down  quietly  in  France  for  the 
autumn  months,  I  think  it  would  be  in  this  grand  old  town. 
The  grapes  of  this  vicinity  are  exceedingly  fine,  and  the  vine- 
yards have  been  famous  since  the  days  of  the  jovial  Francis, 
who  introduced  the  best  varieties  of  the  grape. 
16 


CIIArTEll  XIII. 

KEV.    J.    R.     PEAKE NAPOLEON'S     TOMB     IN     THE     HOTEL     DES      IV7ALIDES 

LOUIS     PHILIPPE DESCRIPTION     OF    THE    CRYPT GALLERY,  ETC. 

MOSAICS  CARYATIDES  SARCOPHAGUS  RELIQUARY  ALTAR       AND 

BALDAQUIN GUIDE CLIMATE     OF    PARIS OVERTURES    MADE    TO    MR. 

VANDERBILT WOODMAN      AND     FORR RAILROAD     TO      ROUEN HIS- 
TORIC     NOTICE POPULATION    OF    ROUEN CATHEDRAL INTERIOR 

MONUMENTS RICHARD    CCEUR    DE    LION,    ETC. ABBEY    OF    ST.    OUEN 

PALACE  OF  JUSTICE JOAN    OF    ARC  —  CORNEILLE ENGLISH  CHURCH 

VISITORS. 

During  my  stay  at  the  Hotel  de  Windsor,  I  enjoyed  much 
pleasure  in  the  society  of  an  English  clergyman  also  resident  in 
the  hotel,  the  Rev.  J.  R.  Peake,  of  Whitchurch,  in  Shropshire. 
This  gentleman  was  a  most  pleasant  companion  in  my  city  ram- 
bles, and  we  both  had  many  views  and  opinions  in  common, 
though  belonging  to  different  pales  of  the  Christian  church.  Mr. 
Peake,  like  myself,  is  engaged  in  the  education  of  lads,  and  was 
now  passing  his  vacation  on  the  continent.  I  really  hope  that 
we  may  meet  again,  and  am  disposed  to  believe  that  the  desire 
is  entertained  by  my  friend  and  brother.  Mr.  Peake  joined  our 
entire  party  in  visiting  the  Hotel  des  Invalides,  for  the  purpose 
of  seeing  Napoleon's  tomb.  This  required  some  management, 
as  the  great  work  was  not  quite  finished,  and  the  public  were  not 
admitted.     All  difiiculties  being  removed,  we  made  our  visit. 

The  remains  of  the  emperor  were  brought  to  Prance  in  triumph, 
in  1840,  in  a  frigate  commanded  by  the  Prince  de  Joinville.  A 
noble  procession  of  steamboats  conveyed  the  body  to  Neuilly. 
On  a  car  thirty  feet  high,  and  drawn  by  sixteen  black  horses,  it 
was  carried  to  the  Invalides.     Galleries  were  erected  to  accom- 


GEAND  EXTEAXCE  TO  THE  CRVrT,  AND  VIEW  01'  BONAPARTE'S  TOJIB. 


napoleon's    tomb  —  THE    CRYPT.  189 

modate  nearly  thirty  thousand  persons.  Candelebra  of  vast  size 
adorned  and  illuminated  the  church,  and  in  front  of  the  altar 
was  a  magnificent  catafalque,  covered  with  violet-colored  velvet, 
and  this  adorned  with  imperial  emblems  to  receive  the  sarcopha- 
gus. The  pall-bearers  were  Bertrand,  Gourgaud,  and  the  sur- 
viving marshals  of  the  empire.  The  king  and  his  family  were 
present.  How  much  Louis  Philippe  was  accessory  to  his  own 
dethronement,  is  a  question  that  may  well  be  pondered. 

The  body  was  then  placed  in  a  chapel  of  this  church,  which 
was  itself  elaborately  fitted  up.  But  the  government  imme- 
diately addressed  itself  to  the  preparation  of  a  tomb  befitting 
the  greatest  man  who  ever  ruled  in  France.  It  would  take  a 
volume  to  describe  the  gorgeous  arrangements  for  this  unrivalled 
sepulchre.  I  have,  therefore,  preferred  to  give  a  good  engraving 
of  the  entrance  to  the  crypt ;  and  through  the  door-way  is  seen 
the  tomb  itself,  and  the  monuments  of  Duroc  and  Bertrand  are 
seen  on  either  side. 

The  tomb  is  surmounted  by  a  marble  balustrade  breast-high, 
and  the  entrance-door  is  guarded  by  two  colossal  funeral  genii. 
This  engraving  shows  the  high  altar  of  the  church,  as  you  enter 
the  edifice.  The  other  side,  towards  the  tomb,  is  still  more  elab- 
orate. The  altar,  the  balustrade  around  it,  the  hand-rail  and  the 
pedestals  which  support  the  candelebra,  are  formed  of  black 
marble  from  the  Pyrenees  and  green  marble  from  the  Alps.  Over 
the  door-way  leading  to  the  tomb  is  Bonaparte's  dying  request : 

"  I  DESIEE  THAT  MY  ASHES  MAY  KEPOSE  ON  THE  BANKS  OF 
THE  SEINE,  IN  THE  MIDST  OF  THE  FRENCH  PEOPLE,  WHOM  I  LOVED 
SO   WELL," 

The  crypt  is  a  circular  gallery,  of  about  seven  or  eight  feet 
wide,  with  a  central  space,  formed  by  twelve  marble  arches,  and 
the  before-named  balustrade  connecting  them  with  each  other ; 
and  between  these  arches  are  twelve  caryatides,  fifteen  feet  high. 
The  sarcophagus  stands  in  the  centre,  with  the  ends  towards  the 
doors. 


190 


MOSAICS  —  BAS-RELIEFS  —  SARCOPIIAGrS. 


This  gallery  around  is  paved  with  mosaics,  and  its  wall  is 
thrown  into  divisions,  which  correspond  with  the  arches  of  the 
centre  work.  The  doors  of  the  crypt  and  reliquary  occupy  two 
of  these  divisions,  and  the  other  ten  are  devoted  to  marble  bas- 
reliefs.  Twelve  bronze  lamps  are  suspended  from  the  roof  of  this 
circular  gallery.  The  bas-reliefs  are  the  exquisite  production  of 
Simard,  and  are  allegorical  representations  of  the  great  acts  and 
institutions  of  the  emperor's  reign.  The  subjects  are  the  Insti- 
tution of  the  Legion  of  Honor,  Encouragement  of  Commerce 
and  Industry,  Public  Works,  Establishment  of  the  Audit  Office, 
Establishment  of  the  University  of  France,  the  Concordat,  the 
Civil  Code,  the  Fovuidation  of  the  Council  of  State,  Organiza- 
tion of  Public  Administration,  Pacification  of  Civil  Troubles. 

The  mosaics  in  the  passage  leading  to  the  tomb  are  very  rich, 
and  here  are  two  of  them.     A  laro;er  one  is  an  eagle  surmounted 


by  the  imperial  diadem.  Each  of  the  cary^itides,  with  the  pillar 
against  which  it  stands,  is  formed  of  a  single  block  of  marble. 
The  sarcophagus  is  very  imposing  from  its  simplicity.  It  is  com- 
posed of  quartz  gritstone,  and  was  procured  from  a  quarry  in 
Russia.  The  cover  is  of  one  slab.  The  coffin,  of  tin,  is  en- 
closed in  mahogany ;  this  has  two  cases  of  lead,  and  over 
all  is  an  ebony  coffin.  The  sarcoiihagus  itself  is  lined  with 
gray  Corsican  granite.     Here,  then,  will  lie  the  remains  of  Na- 


RELIQUARY  —  ALTAR    AND    EALDAQUIX.  191 

poleou  Bonaparte  till  the  last  trumpet  shall  sound,  and  all  ranks 
shall  bo  abolished,  and  he  will  stand  with  the  humblest  of  his 
subjects  before  the  King  eternal  —  unless  the  -^cud  [deaiuro  of 
Parisians  shall  by  and  by  decide  upon  pulling  down  what  they 
formerly  built  up  with  so  much  enthusiasm. 

The  Reliquary,  or  sword-room,  is  a  very  elegant  apartment, 
lined  with  white  marble.  Directly  facing  the  door  stands  a  mar- 
ble statue  of  Napoleon  in  imperial  costume,  the  sceptre  in  one 
hand  and  a  globe  in  the  other.  In  front  of  this  statue  is  a 
pedestal  of  dark  porphyry,  from  Finland,  on  which  is  a  rich 
bronze  cushion,  where  repose  the  hat  which  Napoleon  wore  at 
Austerlitz,  his  sword  used  at  that  battle,  his  epaulettes,  orders, 
and  a  gold  crown.  On  either  side  is  a  tripod  supporting  the 
flags  which  are  identified  with  his  military  exploits.  On  the 
walls  are  recorded  the  names  of  battles  in  which  he  commanded 
in  person.  The  pavement  of  this  apartment  is  inlaid  with  mosaic 
medallions,  descriptive  of  imperial  power. 

I  think  the  Altar  and  Baldaquin  exceed  in  magnificence  any 
work  of  man  that  I  have  ever  seen  ;  and,  standing  before  it  and 
looking  around  upon  the  entire  scene,  I  feel  that  all  of  earthly 
splendor  that  this  world  has  witnessed  in  the  monumental  art 
must  pale  before  this  sepulchral  chef-d'oiiiire.  Twelve  years 
have  been  devoted  to  this  national  labor,  and  it  is  now  nearly 
finished.  Our  guide  was  one  of  the  Old  Guard  who  accompanied 
Napoleon  to  Elba  and  St.  Helena,  and  is  now  the  custodian  of 
his  tomb.  "We  saw  the  coffin  in  a  chapel,  where  it  lies  in  great 
magnificence,  awaiting  its  final  removal. 

During  all  my  visits  to  Paris,  which  have  been  in  June,  July, 
December,  January  and  February,  I  have  been  observant  of  the 
weather  and  climate.  I  have  noticed  no  fogs  nor  mists.  The 
air  is  dry,  and  those  who  have  had  a  tendency  to  cough, 
bi'onchial  irritation,  or  asthmatical  symptoms,  are  always  relieved. 
In  no  place  have  I  felt  the  state  of  the  skin  so  healthy  as  in 
this  city.  In  all  cases  where  invalids  visit  Paris  and  find  that 
16* 


192     OVERTUKES  MADE  TO  MR.  VANDERBILT. 

they  improve,  I  think  they  would  do  well  to  abide  quietly.  I 
have  seen  bad  consequences  ensue  from  not  letting  well-enough 
satisfy.  We  all,  as  a  party,  had  our  health  perfectly  in  Paris ; 
enjoyed  every  hour  of  our  visit,  and  left  this  beautiful  city  with 
regret. 

I  ought  to  mention  that  our  stay  in  Paris  was  one  of  nineteen 
days.  During  our  abode  here  several  gentlemen  and  noblemen 
called  on  Mr.  Vanderbilt,  expressing  an  earnest  wish  to  have 
him  identify  himself  with  a  new  steam-ship  line  which  the  gov- 
ernment proposed  to  open  with  North,  South  and  Central  Amer- 
ica. To  these  0¥eiiares,  which  were  urged  in  the  most  flatter- 
ing terms,  Mr.  Vanderbilt  gave  no  encouragement ;  but  freely 
eommitnicated  his  views,  and  offered  the  results  of  his  experience. 
The  subject  was  afterwards  revived,  and  the  most  pressing  invi- 
tations to  revisit  Paris  were  forwarded  to  Mr.  Vanderbilt  at 
Constantinople,  and  the  first  names  in  France,  both  civilians  and 
capitalists,  were  involved  in  the  proposal.  And  had  Mr.  Van- 
derbilt gone  abroad  with  any  desire  to  advance  his  interests  by 
commercial  operations,  the -opportunities  afforded  him  were  as 
brilliant  as  a  business  man  could  desire.  But  his  aims  and 
objects  were  strictly  private,  and  personal  enjoyment  and  the 
happiness  of  his  circle  was  all  he  attempted. 

Having  finished  our  business  with  Mr.  Woodman,  the  prince 
of  tailors,  and  Forr,  the  best  shoemaker  in  Paris,  we  took 
the  train  of  cars  for  Eouen,  which  is  eighty-four  miles  from 
Paris.  Our  route  lay  €'n  tb.e  banks  of  the  Seine,  and  we  passed 
through  Clichy,  Colombes,  where  the  queen  of  Charles  I.  died  in 
poverty  ;  Poissy,  Meulan,  Blantes,  where  William  the  Conqueror 
met  his  death-wound  ;  B-osny,  tho  favorite  residence  of  the  great 
Sully.  On  our  way  we  noticed  some  exceedingly  fine  churches, 
of  apparently  an  early  dato.  The  town  of  Vernon  is  a  fine- 
looking  old  place.  Every  time  I  pass  this  road  I  long  to  make 
a  sauntering  tour  along  the  banks  of  the  Seine.  How  much  I 
wanted  to  make  a  tarry  in  Andelys,  Gaillard,  and  other  sweet 


ROUEN  —  ITS    HISTORY    AND    SIEGES.  193 

spots  on  the  river-side.  Elboeuf  is  a  large,  flourishing  town, 
with  many  manufactories  of  cloth,  and  around  are  villas  in- 
dicative of  taste  and  wealth.  The  Seine,  in  all  its  course,  winds 
through  a  cultivated  valley,  and  presents  at  every  bend  the  most 
picturesque  views.  Next  to  Paris,  I  regard  Rouen  as  the  most 
interesting  city  in  France,  and,  in  some  respects,  one  of  the  most 
extraordinary  cities  of  Europe.  This  place  lies  on  the  north 
bank  of  the  river,  across  which  there  is  a  fine  stone  bridge,  and 
I  believe  also  a  suspension  bridge ;  but  I  was  engaged  in 
noticing  the  glorious  approach  to  this  city,  and  the  show  which 
it  presents  of  its  venerable  cathedral,  and  the  abbey  church  of 
St.  Ouen.  Ptolemy  speaks  of  this  city  by  the  name  f)f  Rotho- 
magus.  The  Romans  occupied  and  fortified  it,  and  remains  of 
their  walls  are  yet  to  be  traced.  The  Church  of  Rome  claims 
that  Christianity  was  introduced  here  by  the  apostles.  Saint 
Ouen  built  churches  here  during  his  episcopate,  in  the  seventh 
century.  Rollo,  the  Norwegian,  who  became  Duke  of  Normandy, 
was  a.  great  benefactoi^  to  Rouen.  Under  his  care  it  grew  and 
flourished. 

This  city  was  strongly  fortified  at  an  early  period,  and  has 
often  been  the  scene  of  siege  and  carnage.  Its  sieges  date  in 
949,  by  the  Emperor  Otho,  and  Louis  IV.  of  France ;  in  ]  204. 
by  Philip  Augustus ;  in  1418,  by  Henry  Y.,  King  of  Eiiglan  J  ; 
in  r449,  when  Charles  VII.  took  it  from  England;  in  1-591,  hy 
Henry  IV.  This  is  quite  a  place  of  business,  and  it  has  nuii.er- 
ous  manufactures,  which  are  prosperous.  The  city  is  engaged  in 
foreign  conimerce,  and  I  saw  vessels  at  the  quays  of  three  luvn- 
dred  tons.  The  custom-house  is  a  good  building.  The  popul;;- 
tion  is  about  one  hundred  and  twenty  thousand  inhabitants.  The 
narrow  streets  are  thronged  with  people,  and  everywhere  the 
hum  of  cheerful  industry  was  heard.  The  streets  are  precisely 
as  they  were  when  Francis  I.  was  in  power ;  and  I  am  carried 
back  to  the  days  of  the  sixteenth  century  more  really  than  I  ever 
was  before.     I  feel  that  I  am  gazing  at  the  vcrv  houses  on  which 


194  ROUEN    CATHEDRAL. 

Joan  of  Arc  has  looked,  and  am  amid  the  same    scenes  that 
pleased  and  occupied  her  cruel  tormentors. 

Every  one  said,  "  Let  us  go  to  the  cathedral ;  "  and  on  the  way 
we  picked  up  a  boy,  who  was  a  willing,  cheerful,  chatty  guide. 
On  our  way,  I  was  tempted  to  explore   sundry  portfolios  of 
engravings,  and  made  a  quick  but  very  satisfactory  investment. 
After  rum'maging  the  quays  of  Paris  in  vain,  I  here  stumbled 
upon  the  objects  of  my  earnest  desire.     I  think  everything  in 
Rouen  looked  better   after   my  purchase  of  sundry   Woolletts 
and  Sharpes,  &e.     0,  what  steep  streets,  what  narrow  streets, 
what   beetling    house-tops,  what  -moss-covered  fountains,  what 
dusty,   cobwebbed  curiosity-shops,  I  passed,   that  hot  morning  1 
"  There  !     there ! "    says   good   Dr.    Linsly,  as   he    caught   the 
west  front  of  the  cathedral,  "  what  a  church  !  "     And  it  is  indeed 
a  sight  to  wonder  at,  admire,  and  then  think  about.     I  wanted 
to   stand  and  spend  an  hour  at  this  spot.     No  engraving  can 
describe  the  glories  of  this  front.     It  reminds  me  of  Wells  Cathe- 
dral, which  was  the  first  large  ecclesiastical  pile  of  great  merit 
which  I  saw ;  and  I  well  remember  that  it  afiected  me  to  illness ; 
it  overpowered  my  mind,  at  my  childish  age.     This  front  is  one 
hundred  and  eighty  feet  wide,  and  one  hundred  and  fifty  feet  at 
its  loftiest  pitch.     It  has  three  porches  between  the  two  towers, 
and  the  bas-reliefs  are  illustrative  of  Herodias'  dancing,  and  the 
decapitation  of  John  the  Baptist.     We  entered  by  the  middle 
door,  and  at  once  saw  the  length  and  altitude  of  the  nave.     Our 
attention  was  directed  to  the  lantern  of  the  tower,  which  is 
upheld  by  four  immense  pillars,  which  cluster  thirty-one  col- 
umns into  a  circumference  of  forty  feet  each.     The  windows  of 
this  edifice  are  one  hundred  and  thirty,  and  these  are  the  best 
specimens  of  painted  glass  in  France,  especially  those  of  the  time 
of  the  Eenaissance.     The  rose  windows  of  the  transept  and  over 
the  organ  are  deemed  matchless.     One  of  these  represents  the 
Father,  surrounded  by  angels,  with  music;  and  again  these  are 
surrounded  by  ten  angels,  each  holding  emblems  of  the  PassioUo 


HEART    OF    RICHARD    C(EUR    DE    LION.  195 

The  dimensions  of  the  cathedral  are  about  four  hundred  and  forty 
feet  in  length,  the  transept  one  hundred  and  seventy-five  feet, 
and  the  nave  is  ninety  feet  high.  The  chapels  ar&  twenty-five  in 
number,  and  I  noticed  several  females  at  the  confessional.  Old 
tlollo  lies  in  the  chapel  of  St.  Romain ;  he  was  removed  here 
rom  the  nave  in  1063.  Here  is  the  grave  and  monument  of 
fohn,  Duke  of  Bedford,  the  Regent  of  France,  1435.  King 
Louis  XI.  was  great  enough  to  refuse  to  destroy  this  tomb.  His 
language  was,  "  I  say,  God  save  his  soul ;  and  let  his  body 
now  lie  in  rest,  which,  when  he  was  alive,  would  have  disquieted 
the  proudest  of  us  all !  "  The  most  splendid  monument  here  was 
that  of  the  two  Cardinals  Amboise  —  uncle  and  nephew.  The 
uncle  was  the  liberal  restorer  of  this  church.  The  monument  is 
of  black  and  white  marble,  —  the  figures,  of  white  marble,  kneel- 
ing beneath  an  elaborate  Grothic  canopy.  Below  is  St.  George, 
in  gilt;  and  the  frieze  is  surrounded  by  six  small  female  sculp- 
tures, which  are  emblems  of  the  virtues  displayed  by  the 
cardinals.  In  this  church  is  the  grave  of  Richard  Cceur  de 
Lion.  I  was  interested  in  looking  at  the  freestone  statue  which 
decorated  his  tomb.  He  is  in  a  recumbent  posture,  his  head  on  a 
cushion,  and  his  feet  against  a  crouching  lion.  A  search  was 
made  in  1838,  and  the  heart  of  R,ichard  was  found  in  a  double 
box  of  lead,  and  on  it  this  inscription,  in  letters  of  that  age : 

HIC  :    JACET  :    COR  :    KICUAKDI  :    REGIS  : 
ANGLORUM. 

This  heart  our  party  afterwards  saw  in  the  museum,  in  the  glass 
case  in  which  it  was  originally  placed.  It  had  much  the  appear- 
ance of  a  piece  of  leather,  but  was  evidently  a  heart.  We  were 
all  pleased  with  the  tomb  of  Louis  de  Breze,  1531.  This  monu- 
ment was  erected  by  his  widow,  Diana  of  Poictiers.  This  is  a 
monument  having  four  pillars  of  black  marble,  between  which  is 
a  coflSn,  on  which  is  laid  a  white  marble  statue  of  the  deceased. 


106  ARCEY    OF    ST.    OUEX. 

The  body  Is  quite  nako  ^  —  the  left  hand  on  the  breast.  This  is 
a  wondrous  resemblance  of  death.  Diana  is  kneeling  at  the 
head.  She  afterwards  forgot  her  sorrows  in  the  arms  of  the 
Second  Henry.  Over  the  monument,  the  vrarrior  is  on  horseback 
in  full  armor.  I  should  much  like  to  have  an  engraving  of  this 
tomb.  A  fine  staircase  leads  to  the  ancient  library.  In  the 
altar  of  the  Lady  Chapel  is  a  grand  picture,  "The  Adoration  of 
the  Shepherds,"  by  Philip  de  Champagne.  The  exterior  of  this 
edifice  is  grandeur  itself.  The  west  tagadc  was  built  by  Cardi- 
nal Amboise.  The  spire  was  burned  in  1822;  but  a  cast-iron j 
open-work  pyramid  now  takes  its  place,  composed  of  two  thousand 
five  hundred  and  forty  pieces,  and  put  together  by  twelve  thou- 
sand eight  hundred  and  seventy-nine  iron  pins  ;  its  elevation  four 
hundred  and  thirty-six  feet,  and  its  weiglit  one  million  two  hun- 
dred thousand  pounds. 

We  now  went  to  the  Abbey  of  Saint  Ouen,  the  oldest  church 
in  Normandy.  It  was  founded  in  533,  in  the  days  of  Clothaire 
I.  The  Normans  landed  in  841,  and  burned  it ;  but  Hollo,  on 
becoming  a  Christian,  rebuilt  it.  It  was  built  and  rebuilt;  but, 
in  1236,  ten  years  after  its  completion,  the  work  of  eighty  years 
was  destroyed  by  fire.  Again  was  it  burned  in  1248.  Early  in 
the  fourteenth  century  this  edifice  was  commenced,  and  was 
finished  early  in  the  sixteenth.  I  was  agiiin  awe-struck  with 
this  western  rose-window,  of  which  Dibdin  said  such  beautiful 
things,  declaring  this  church  "could  hardly  have  a  rival,  and 
certainly  not  a  superior."  Here  are  one  hundred  and  twenty- 
five  windows,  and  the  dimensions  about  the  same  as  the  cathe- 
dral. I  really  felt  grateful  to  the  workmen  who  are  so  carefully 
repairing  this  exquisite  piece  of  architecture.  I  must  say  no 
more  of  this  precious  pile,  but  away  to  other  objects  ;  only 
observing  that  I  saw  the  ruins  of  noble  churches  now  used  as 
warehouses  and  factories. 

Houen  reminds  me  of  Chester ;  but  it  looks  more  ancient,  far^ 
than  that  city.     We  hurried  to   the  markets,  and  found  every- 


OLDEST    HOUSE    ]N    llOUEN.  197 

thing  exposed  for  sale  that  can  be  imagined.  As  we  walked 
along,  we  could  not  help  paying  attention  to  the  strongly-built 
Norman  Horse,  which  looks  like  the  embodiment  of  endurance. 
We  now  went  to  the  Palace  of  Justice,  built  1499.  A  more 
beautiful  bit  of  architecture  cannot  be  found  in  France.  The 
roof  has  no  pillar  of  support.  This  edifice  is  one  side  of  a 
square,  and  is  adorned  with  all  that  the  architecture  of  the  age 
understood  of  delicacy  and  splendor.  The  angular  pillars  of  the 
piers  are  covered  with  canopied  statues  and  miniature  steeples ; 
numerous  ornaments  surround  the  windows,  a  leaden  balustrade 
surmounts  the  roof,  and  an  elegant  octangular  turret  occupies  the 
middle  of  the  facade.  Hence  a  massive  flight  of  stone  steps 
leads  to  the  Salle  des  Procureurs.  The  Palace  of  Justice  is 
almost  as  beautiful  as  the  Hotel  de  Ville,  at  Brussels. 

We  were  all  anxious  to  find  our  way  to  the  Place  de  la  Pucelle, 
where  Joan  of  Arc  was  burned,  in  1431,  in  accordance  with  the 
superstition  of  that  age.  How  little  is  popular  opinion  worth ! 
One  generation  says,  Crucify  !  —  the  next  says,  Hosanna  !  This 
girl  was  burned  for  a  heretic,  and  is  now  well-nigh  worshipped 
for  a  saint.  Here,  turning  from  the  spot,  we  found  a  house 
regarded  as  one  of  the  oldest  in  Rouen.  At  the  left-hand  en- 
trance the  wall  is  covered  with  bas-relief  figures,  representing 
Henry  VIII.  and  Francis  I.  going  to  the  Champ  de  Drap  d'Or. 
Here,  in  this  very  hall  and  entry,  walked  the  gay  and  jovial 
monarch  Francis  I.,  and  in  this  gateway  sounded  his  bugles. 
The  work  on  these  walls  is  very  elaborate,  and  every  portion  of 
the  relievo  ought  to  be  engraved.  Prevort,  who  has  published  a 
memoir  on  this  building,  called  "  The  Hotel  du  Bourgtheroulde," 
fixes  its  date  at  1486. 

The  roofs  of  the  houses  are  covered  with  wood,  in  various 
tile-shapes.  I  stopped  at  several  shops,  to  admire  the  cabinet 
furniture.  The  wood  is  chiefly  black  walnut,  and  several  articles 
were  of  great  beauty  of  finish. 

The  ladies  were  mostly  bent  on  seeing  sights,  at  a  rate  which 


198  HAVRE  —  DISTINGUISHED   VISITORS. 

some  of  us  thought  beyond  the  bounds  of  moderation ;  and  Mrs. 

T and  I  quietly  retraced  our  steps,  and  found  the  comfort 

of  a  good  dinner  no  mean  restorative  of  wearied  nature.  I  got, 
in  Rouen,  some  glimpses  of  the  neighboring  heights,  which  satis- 
fied me  that  from  their  summits  a  prospect  of  the  valley  of  the 
Seine,  with  the  antique  towers  of  this  incomparable  old  city, 
■would  amply  repay  the  wayfarer  who  should  ascend  them.  On 
the  stone  bridge  is  a  statue  of  Corneille,  who  was  born  here. 

Our  route  to  Havre,  by  rail,  was  in  the  dark,  and  we  saw 
little,  of  course.  On  reaching  Havre,  we  found  the  operation  of 
coaling  going  on ;  and  a  sad,  dirty  affair  it  is,  especially  in  wet 
■weather.  We  passed  the  Sabbath  day  here,  and  attended  service 
at  the  English  church,  where  we  heard  a  rather  dull  sermon. 
The  American  Sailors'  Chapel  was  not  open  that  Sunday,  owing 
to  the  absence  of  the  chaplain.  At  this  port  we  met  with  the 
Humboldt  steam-ship,  and  had  much  pleasure  in  welcoming  her 
commander,  Captain  Lyndes,  on  board  the  yacht.  He  is  a  fine 
specimen  of  the  American  seaman.  Captain  Eldridge  and  his 
friend  Lyndes  had  a  good  time ;  they  are  men  made  for  each 
other. 

While  the  North  Star  lay  at  Havre,  she  was  visited  by  thou- 
sands of  persons,  many  of  whom  came  from  Paris  and  other 
cities.  Among  other  distinguished  visitors  was  the  Minister  at 
War.  We  were  under  many  obligations  to  Mr.  Vesey  and  Mr. 
Smith,  for  kind  attentions ;  and,  on  Monday,  July  25,  we  steamed 
off  for  the  Mediterranean,  amid  the  cheering  of  a  large  crowd 
gathered  upon  the  docks. 


CHAPTER    XIV. 

VOYAGE    RESUMED  —  BAY     OF     BISCAY  —  VIGO     BAY  —  LOSS     OF     ROBERT 

OGDEN     FLINT  —  BOCK     OF     LISBON  —  CAPE    ST.    VINCENT TRAFALGAR 

TARIFA  COAST     OF      AFRICA  BOCK    OF    GIBRALTAR MALAGA 

QUARANTINE WATERING VISITORS    FROM    SHORE FUNERAL   SERMON 

CATHEDRAL BEGGARS    IN     THE     STREETS A    PRETTY     BOY     AND     A 

STRONG    RESEMBLANCE JOSE    CUBERO PRIEST   WITH    BELL    AND    BOX 

BULL   RING REV.    CHARLES    BBERETON BISHOP    OF    BARCELONA  

CALECHES     AND     DRIVERS RIDE     TO      MR.      DELIUS'     VILLA     AND    VINE- 
YARDS   ALAMEDA MULETEERS  MR.     CONSUL    SMITH HARBOR     O? 

MALAGA. 

Monday  July  25.  —  On  a  bright  cheerful  day  we  left  the  dock 
gates,  at  noon,  sailing  to  make  Cape  Barfleur,  La  Hogue,  Cas- 
ket lights,  Isle  of  Ushant  light,  —  having  passed  the  channel 
islands  to  our  left.  The  swell  from  the  westward  was  heavy, 
and  the  ship's  motion  grew  uneasy,  and  we  soon  realized  the  truth 
of  the  character  usually  ascribed  to  the  Bay  of  Biscay ;  it  was 
a  disagreeable  pitch  — 

"  All  the  day. 
As  we  lay 
In  the  Bay  of  Biscay,  0  !  " 

but  we  were  spared  from  appropriating  to  our  own  experience 
the  entire  song  of  bid  Andrew  Cherry.  We  now  made  Cape 
Finisterre,  on  the  morning  of  the  28th,  with  a  clear  balmy  sky, 
and  moderate  breeze  from  the  north-west.  We  ran  down  the 
bold  coast  of  Spain,  and  skirted  it  closely,  so  as  to  obtain  fine 
views  of  its  prominent  points.  Cigars  were  again  in  brisk 
demand,  and  the  temperature  was  as  fine  as  we  could  desire. 
Our  distance  from  shore  was  from  five  to  eight  miles ;  we  looked 
into  Vigo  Bay,  and,  with  our  glasses,  had  a  distinct  view  of 
17 


200  LOSS    OF   KOBERT    OGDEN    FLINT. 

Camina,  the  boundary  town  between  Spain  and  Portugal,  and 
here  we  saw  an  English  homeward-bound  steamship. 

On  the   morning  of  the  29th,  at  about  half-past  five  o'clock,  I 
heard  an  unusual  noise  on  deck,  and  the  cry  of  "  man  overboard." 
I  hurried  up,  and  found  Mr.  Cope  and  three  of  the  sailors  get- 
ging  down  the  boat,  and  just  got  a  glimpse  of  a  poor  fellow,  with 
his  hands  up,  astern.     I  was,  with  others,  busy  in  throwing  over 
the  life-preserving  stools,  before  I  asked  who  the  man  was.     I 
was  grieved  to  learn  that  it  was  Mr.  Flint,  one  of  our  quarter- 
masters.    The  boat  was  off,  our  steamer  stopped,  and  a  search 
of  an  hour  made,  but  in  vain  ;  the  ocean  was  calm,  but  our  poor 
shipmate  was  unable  to  swim,  and  he  probably  went  down  almost 
without  a  struggle.     As  we  had  been  going  fast,  we  were  far 
from  him  instantly,  and  the  chances  were  small  to  recover  one 
who  had  no  power  to  sustain  himself.     He  was  on  the  quarter 
deck  when  the  men  were  shifting  the  main-sheet,  and  a  flap  from 
it  struck  him  off  as  he  stood  at  the  extreme  edge  of  the  stern, 
outside  the  netting.     With  heavy  hearts  we  watched  the  boat 
slowly  return  from  the  unsuccessful  search,  and  we  left  Robert 
Ogden  Flint  to  rest  in  his  ocean  grave  till  the  sea  shall  give  up 
its  treasures.     All  was  done  by  Captain  Eldridge  and  Mr.  Cope 
that  was  possible.     The  sad  event  took  place  in  N.  lat.  39,  55, 
and  9,  43  W.  long.     This  was  our  only  gloomy  day  since  leav- 
ing New  York.     Mr.   Flint  was  a  young   man  of  respectable 
connections ;  his  father  was  an  eminent  physician  in  Massachu- 
setts, and  his  brother.  Dr.   Flint,  of  Buffalo,  one  of  the  most 
scientific  practitioners  in  our  country.     Our  young  friend  was 
fond  of  his  profession,  and  we  had  often  spoken  of  him  as  afford- 
ing high  promise ;  he  was  only  twenty  years  of  age,  had  just 
been  promoted  at  Havre  to  the  rank  of  quarter-master ;  highly 
intelligent  and  affable,  he  had  made  himself  a  favorite  with  all 
our  party.     Our  hearts  ached  for  his  widowed  mother,  and  we 
offered  sincere  prayers  that  God,  the  widow's  God  and  husband, 
would  comfort  her  in  her  sore  bereavement.     At  a  subsequent 


ROCK   OF   LISBON  —  CAPE   ST.    VINCENT.  201 

period,  a  gentleman  started  a  subscription  paper,  which  was 
filled  up  by  the  officers,  crew,  and  the  members  of  the  party,  to 
place  a  suitable  monument  to  the  memory  of  Mr.  Flint,  in  the 
Greenwood  cemetery ;  and,  as  I  am  writing,  I  learn  that  a 
granite  one  is  in  course  of  erection. 

Coasting  south,  we  came  to  the  Farilhoens,  and  steered  close 
to  the  Burlings  isles  and  light,  which  lie  a  little  off  the  shore. 
These  islands  are  high,  rugged-looking  rocks,  and  they  made 
quite  an  appearance  from  our  deck.  The  Farilhoens  have  near 
them  a  cluster  of  islets,  called  the  Estellas.  Our  course  was 
then  direct  for  Cape  Roca,  or  the  Rock  of  Lisbon ;  to  this  we 
came  very  close  at  twelve  o'clock.  Behind  the  rock  I  observed 
that  the  land  rose  to  a  great  elevation,  with  many  ridges.  On 
the  northern  slope  of  this  range  stands  the  town  of  Cintra.  We 
longed  to  visit  this  fine  city,  —  visit  the  beautiful  Cintra ;  and 
still  more  I  desired  to  meet  with  a  friend  whose  society  on  a 
former  voyage  had  made  much  of  the  pleasure  I  experienced  in 
crossing  the  ocean.  This  was  the  Honorable  Mr.  Haddock,  who 
represented  the  United  States  at  the  court  of  Portugal.  To  be 
so  near  him  and  his  charming  family,  and  yet  not  see  him,  was 
a  mortification.  We  made  direct  for  Cape  St.  Vincent,  —  re- 
membering Jarvis  and  Nelson  in  1797,  —  and  passed  so  close  as 
to  have  a  capital  view  of  this  remarkable  headland,  on  the 
summit  of  which  stands  a  venerable-looking  convent,  with  several 
towers.  What  a  look-out  the  old  monks  must  have  had  over  the 
Atlantic  waA^es !  And  though  to-day  it  was  bliss  to  breathe  the 
clear,  warm  element  of  life,  and  all  around  was  calm  as  a  summer 
evening,  yet  I  fancy  that  Cape  St.  Vincent  is  familiar  with  other 
phases  of  ocean  wave.  The  cape  is  very  precipitous,  and  off 
to  the  north  it  presents  some  broken  rocks,  which  stand  up  like 
the  Needles.  Off  this  cape  we  passed  five  steamers.  We 
pursued  our  course  to  the  straits,  passing  by  Cadiz,  into  which 
we  had  a  pleasant  peep,  and  then  on  over  Trafalgar  Bay,  where 
the  subject  of  conversation  was  chiefly  upon  Nelson  and  his  vie- 


202         TARIFA  —  ROCK  OF  GIBRALTAR. 

tory.  I  could  not  forget  that  in  these  same  waters  another  of 
Britain's  great  and  gifted  sons  had  found  his  last  resting-place. 
It  was  off  Trafalgar  that  Sir  David  Wilkie  was  buried,  from  the 
Oriental  steamship,  in  1842,  We  were  off  the  cape  July  30th, 
at  twelve  o'clock.  The  elevation  of  this  famous  spot  is  not 
considerable,  and  on  one  of  its  corners  stands  a  round  tower. 
This  is  the  north-western  point  of  the  entrance  to  the  straits, 
and  we  now  shaped  a  line  to  Tarifa,  a  very  old  and  fine- 
looking  place,  settled  by  the  Moors,  and  called  after  a  Berber 
chief.  It  has  long  since  lost  the  importance  which  it  once  pos- 
sessed. The  town  looked  venerable  and  picturesque,  but  small 
for  a  population  of  more  than  ten  thousand.  In  1812  it  was 
possessed  by  the  English,  and  was  besieged  by  Marshal  Victor, 
who  was  compelled  to  retreat.  The  light-house  stands  on  an 
island  rock,  and  on  this  is  the  chief  fortress  of  the  town.  This 
is  the  most  southerly  point  of  Europe.  All  around  us  were 
ships  of  various  descriptions,  making  for  the  Mediterranean,  with 
a  fine  westerly  breeze.  Our  awning  was  now  desirable,  as  the 
sun  was  very  powerful ;  and  under  its  shade  we  greatly  enjoyed 
the  prospect,  as  we  gazed  upon  the  African  coast  from  Cape 
Spartel  down  to  Ceuta.  The  shore  is  grand  and  rugged,  and  is 
very  high,  elevated  in.  some  places  to  about  three  thousand  feet. 
But  every  eye  is  turned  to  the  north-east,  and  many  voices 
exclaimed,  "There  's  the  Rock  !  " 

Never  was  I  more  enchanted  with  the  sight  of  any  spot  than 
that  of  Gibraltar.  This  was  the  accomplishment  of  a  day-dream  of 
early  life;  and  now  here  I  was,  under  a  class  of  advan^;^jeous 
circumstances  such  as  I  could  never  have  anticipated,  and  few 
men  can  possibly  enjoy.  The  straits  are  nearly  twelve  miles 
wide,  and  the  prospect  on  either  coast  is  clearly  defined.  There 
we  were  now  off  Gibraltar ;  we  slowly  passed,  and  every  opera- 
glass  was  in  requisition.  We  did  not  propose  to  stop  till  our 
return ;  and  now  only  looked  at  the  crouching  lion,  of  which  it 
ha?  been  said  that  the  rock  is  a  striking  resemblance.    "  His  fore 


GIBRALTAR  —  AFRICAN    COAST.  203 

head,  high  and  massive,  rests  upon  the  fore-paws,  doggedly  over- 
looking the  low  beach,  which,  Nahant-like,  connects  it  with 
Spain ;  and  the  bristling  mane  and  back  are  the  rock  outline 
against  the  sky.  The  formidable  monster  is  three  miles  long 
from  the  forehead  and  nose  to  the  tip  of  the  tail,  and  of  the 
exact  proportions  in  height  and  breadth  of  a  well-shaped  lion. 
Ao'ainst  his  left  ribs  are  a  brood  of  houses,  which  nestle  under 
his  protection,  and  are  washed  by  the  waves  of  the  bay."  This 
very  graphic  description  is  taken  from  "  The  Shores  of  the 
Mediterranean,"  a  work  written  by  the  Hon.  Francis  Schroeder, 
our  present  Charge  d' Affaires  at  Sweden,  and  published  by  the 
Harpers  in  1846.  Of  these  volumes  I  would  say  that  I  read  them 
with  pleasure,  on  their  issue  from  the  press,  and  very  carefully 
consulted  them  whilst  coasting  through  the  sea ;  and  I  am  so  satis- 
fied of  their  accuracy,  and  impressed  with  the  great  beauty  of  their 
free  sketches  of  scenery,  that  I  would  earnestly  advise  no  travel- 
ler to  go  through  the  Mediterranean  without  them ;  and  all  persons 
who  desire  to  have  an  acquaintance  with  these  enchanting  shores, 
and  cannot  go  abroad,  to  study  them  carefully.  I  regard  Mr. 
Schroeder's  work  as  the  best  guide-book  extant ;  and  I  am  sure 
that  the  wayfarer  who  may  use  these  volumes  will  often  thank 
their  author  for  much  enjoyment. 

The  African  coast  attracted  me,  with  its  lofty  Abyla,  on  whose 
summit  was  a  fleecy  cloud ;  far  away  was  the  range  of  the  Atlas 
Mountains.  Abyla  was  the  African  pillar  of  Hercules,  and  Calpe 
the  European  one.  At  eight  o'clock  we  were  beyond  the  rock, 
and  in  this  latitude  there  is  no  northern  twilight,  but 

•'  As  sets  the  sun  on  Afric's  shore. 
One  instant  —  all  is  night." 

We  lay  our  course  off"  for  Malaga,  and  the  night  was  thick  and 
murky,  but  at  day-light,  on  Sunday,  July  31st,  we  were  in  its 
charming  bay. 

As  soon  as  we  had  anchored,  our  party  were  on  deck,  and  I 
never  saw  persons  more  charmed  than   we  all  ware  with   the 
17* 


204  OFF   MALAGA  —  QUARANTINE. 

splendid  panorama  which  lay  before  us.  The  town  is  built  on 
a  circular  bay ;  —  it  is  on  a  gentle  hill,  and  all  around  is  a  back- 
ground of  lofty  and  romantic  mountains.  Directly  in  front  of 
us  was  the  cathedral,  a  very  large  and  imposing  edifice ;  off  to 
its  left  a  ravine,  between  the  mountains,  and  a  plain,  on  which  a 
large  part  of  the  city  is  built,  and  through  which  runs  a  small 
river.  Off  further  left,  are  vast  manufactories  and  lofty  chim- 
neys, which  make  a  fine  show  against  a  blue  and  cloudless  sky  ; 
and  away  to  the  right  of  the  cathedral  is  a  picturesque  Moorish 
castle,  and  immense  fortifications,  with  zig-zag  roads  up  to  them, 
tliut,  as  we  look  up  at  them  from  the  deck  of  our  yacht,  seem 
impracticable  for  anything  but  goats  or  mules.  The  city  is  very 
liiic  looking,  a  great  deal  of  white  and  green.  We  are  pretty 
close  in,  —  and  what  a  noise  and  clatter  !  A  Spanish  lad,  who 
belongs  to  our  ship,  is  a  native  of  Malaga,  and  he  tells  me  that 
it  comes  from  the  market,  which  is  now  just  opened,  and  hundreds 
are  praising  their  fish,  flesh  and  flowl ;  and  he  says  the  noise 
will  increase  till  nine  or  ten  o'clock,  —  and  we  found  it  so.  Now 
the  health-officer  came  off,  and  found  that  we  came  from  France, 
which  receives  ships  from  parts  of  Europe  where  cholera  exists ; 
so  we  are  to  perform  two  days'  quarantine.  Well,  be  it  so,  — 
with  such  a  sky,  such  a  temperature,  such  a  prospect,  I  never 
could  be  better  off.  And  there  came  a  boat  full  of  good  things, 
vegetables  of  all  sorts,  but,  best  of  all,  grapes ;  the  grapes  of 
Muscat,  the  Frontinac  and  Sweet  Water.  We  all  felt  acquiescent, 
and  unanimously  voted  that  quarantine  was  not  so  bad  a  thing 
as  we  had  heard  it  alleged  to  be. 

But  I  suspect  that,  after  all,  quarantine  is  not  always  seen 
from  the  deck  of  a  steam  yacht,  by  men  sitting  under  a  spacious 
canopy,  and  surrounded  by  every  luxury.  Our  consul,  Mr.  Smith, 
came  off,  and  from  his  boat  held  a  friendly  chat,  and  we  made 
arrangements  for  our  supply  of  water. 

This  had  to  be  brought  us  in  hogsheads  by  boats,  and  then 
they  were  hoisted   into  the  yacht ;   and  on  their  return  to  the 


VISITORS  —  MALAGA  —  CATHEDRAL.  205 

boat,  it  was  amusing  to  see  the  farcical  purification  to  which 
they  were  subjected  before  they  were  again  deposited.  Each 
hogshead  was  abundantly  aspersed  and  besprinkled  with  salt- 
water. Nothing  but  money  escaped,  and  that  seemed  to  be 
regarded  as  the  root  or  cause  of  no  evil.  We  received  an  assur- 
ance from  the  town  authorities  that  at  twelve  o'clock  on  Tuesday 
our  imprisonment  should  terminate.  And,  as  soon  as  the  hour 
arrived,  the  bay  was  crowded  with  boats  and  feluccas,  and  we 
had  visitors  in  shoals ;  and  some  of  them  were  really  not  likely 
soon  to  be  forgotten.  We  had  on  board  our  ship  that  day  some 
of  the  prettiest  girls  I  ever  saw ;  and  the  older  ladies,  too,  had 
eyes  of  wondrous  power.  The  Spaniards  were  in  ecstasies  with 
the  ship,  and  I  think  hundreds  that  day  enjoyed  the  visit.  The 
governor  and  his  staff  honored  us  with  their  company.  Our 
great  object  in  submitting  to  quarantine  was  to  obtain  a  clean 
bill-of-health  for  the  Mediterranean  ports.  The  thermometer 
was  at  eighty-five,  as  we  sat  looking  from  our  awning  over  the 
bay  of  about  fifteen  miles'  extent. 

On  the  Sabbath-day  we  observed  our  service  at  eleven  o'clock, 
and  I  preached  a  funeral-sermon  for  our  lost  friend,  Mr.  Flint, 
from  Jeremiah  12  :  5  —  "  What  wilt  thou  do,  in  the  swellings  of 
Jordan  ?  " 

In  the  absence  of  our  visitors,  we  took  our  boats  and  landed  in 
Malaga  —  most  of  us  for  the  first  time  touching  Spanish  ground. 
Our  first  attention  was  directed  to  the  cathedral,  which  we  had 
looked  at  for  two  days.  This  stupendous  temple  was  begun  by 
Philip. II.  in  1538,  and  only  finished  in  1719.  The  style  is  not 
good ;  it  wants  unity.  It  is  intended  for  Grecian,  and  has  a 
bold  facade  between  two  dwarf  towers.  The  interior  is  very 
rich,  and  yet  not  in  keeping.  The  choir  has  good  carved  work, 
and  the  roof  is  richly  adorned  with  oak  and  chestnut  carvings. 
The  pulpit  is  very  fine,  of  reddish  marble.  I  noticed  several 
pictures,  but  the  light  was  bad.  A  Madonna  struck  me  as  good. 
The  choristers  were  preparing  for  vespers,  and  a  dirty-looking  set 


206  BEGGARS    IN    THE    STREETS. 

of  children  they  were.  I  observed  one  boy  who  had  six  fingers 
and  a  thumb  on  his  left  hand.  Leaving  the  church,  we  were 
surrounded  by  a  crowd  of  children,  half-grown  men  and  women, 
and  several  old  crones.  I  think  our  body-guard  numbered  from 
twenty  to  thirty,  and  they  stuck  close  to  us ;  and,  as  we  were 
some  sixteen  or  eighteen,  we  made  quite  an  array  passing  through 
the  narrow  streets  of  Malaga,  many  of  which  were  not  more 
than  ten  feet  wide.  If  we  entered  a  shop,  they  guarded  the 
doors,  and  as  we  came  out  they  smiled  and  took  up  their  march. 
Some  of  the  boys  were,  though  poorly  clad,  of  exquisite  beauty. 
One,  about  thirteen,  was  as  fine  a  faced  boy  as  is  often  seen. 
Murillo  would  have  made  a  picture  of  the  chap.  I  see  him  now, 
all  radiant  with  smiles.  He  attached  himself  to  our  party  closely, 

and  greatly  pleased  Mrs. ,  who  imagined  that  his  glorious 

black  eyes  strongly  resembled  those  of  her  dear  absent  boy  of 
the  same  age,  whom  she  had  left  at  home.  Again  and  again  did 
she  speak  of  the  strong  resemblance,  and  called  my  attention  to 
the  fact.  Presently  her  kind  feelings,  which  were  strongly  en- 
listed towards  the  lad,  led  her  to  ask  her  husband  to  give  him 
a  quarter-dollar,  which  he  received  with  sunny  smiles,  and  then 
deposited  in  his  mouth  for  safe-keeping.  Again  the  lady  ex- 
claimed, "  0,  how  much  he  resembles  my  dear ! "    There  he 

was  at  her  side  trotting  along  and  looking  up  in  her  face,  when  sud- 
denly he  unbuttoned  his  ragged  pants,  pulled  out  the  tail  of  his 
shirt,  whipped  the  coin  from  his  mouth,  tied  it  up  in  the  corner  of 
the  nether  garment,  and  went  on  readjusting  his  dilapidated  trou- 
sers.   I  could  not  help  asking  Mrs. ,  "  Now  is  he  not  the  very 

picture  of  your  boy  ?  "  We  visited  the  celebrated  Jose  Cubero, 
who  is  the  maker  of  the  Malaga  terra-cotta  images  of  the  Spanish 
characters  in  national  costume.  These  images  are  admirably 
painted.  We  purchased  several,  but  they  are  expensive  here, 
and  in  England  and  America  are  very  costly.  We  were  accosted 
by  a  priest,  who  rang  a  bell  and  held  a  small  box  in  his  hand  for 
alms.     On  asking  what  the  objects  of  his  solicitation  were,  we 


BULL-RING  —  REV.    CHARLES   BRERETON.  207 

were  informed  thoi  a  murderer  was  to  be  garrotted  the  next  day, 
and  the  good  padi  3  was  taking  up  alms  to  pay  for  his  funeral 
masses.  Such  is  Popery  in  Spain.  They  can  "  pray  a  soul  out 
of  purgatory  ;"  but  even  this  poor  murderer  must  bring  fish  to 
the  priest's  net. 

We  now  went  to  the  bull-ring,  an  immense  amphitheatre, 
capable  of  holding  ten  thousand  persons.  We  were  taken  into 
the  apartments  where  the  animals  are  kept.  Saw  one  in  his 
prison-house,  —  the  implements  of  torture,  the  saddles,  &c.  A 
great  bull-fight  came  off  a  week  before  our  arrival.  We  visited 
the  Church  of  the  Martyrs,  a  fine  building,  but  had  no  time  to 
examine  its  interior  as  I  could  have  wished.  We  were  sadly 
fatigued  with  a  heat  perfectly  tropical. 

Among  our  visitors  from  this  town  was  the  Rev.  Charles 
Brereton,  the  English  chaplain,  and  his  family;  with  him  I 
had  a  pleasant  interview ;  and,  on  landing,  I  found  he  had  kindly 
sent  his  secretary  to  render  me  any  aid  in  making  my  way.  Mr. 
Brereton  preaches  regularly  at  the  house  of  the  English  consul, 
Mr.  Marks,  who  was  now  absent.  But  his  excellent  mother,  a 
fine  old  lady,  whose  husband  established  divine  service  in  his 
consulship,  came  on  board.  From  the  chaplain  I  learn  that 
about  one  hundred  English  Protestants  reside  here,  and  eight 
hundred  and  fifty  British  sailors  come  into  port  during  the  three 
months  of  vintage ;  and  then  there  are  many  American  seamen 
and  visitors.  About  three  hundred  British  travellers  visit  Mal- 
aga every  year.  Mr.  Brereton  and  Mr.  Marks  have  succeeded 
in  getting  a  beautiful  cemetery  for  the  use  of  Protestants,  and 
the  way  in  which  it  is  planted  and  adorned  is  an  honor  to  them 
and  all  who  have  aided  them.  A  more  befitting  spot  for  the 
worn-out  pilgrim  at  the  end  of  life's  journey  I  have  seldom  seen. 
This  was  the  first  burial-place  granted  to  Protestants  in  Spain. 
Now  an  effort  has  been  made  to  secure  one  in  Madrid  ;  but  the 
Bishop  of  Baicelona  has  fiercely  denounced  the  measure,  and  he 
is  unwilling  tc  allow  religi'  is  rites  at  the  grave. 


208  CALECHES    AND    DRIVEKS. 

Amongst  other  pleasant  things,  this  Catholic  bishop  says, 
"The  desired  of  the  nations,  God,  and  true  man,  conversed  with 
men,  and  formed  his  church.  He  placed  in  it  as  his  vicar  the 
most  high  Pontiff,  centre  of  unity,  rector,  doctor  and  universal 
master.  "Whoever  is  not  with  him  is  not  in  the  church ;  and 
•whoever  has  not  the  church  for  mother  has  not  God  for  Father. 
Without  necessity  of  prolix  explanations,  what  is  a  Protestant  ? 
An  unfortunate,  a  bastard,  without  father  or  mother,  and  conse- 
quently without  God." 

I  hope,  if  any  Americans  visit  Malaga,  they  will  call  on  Mr. 
Brereton,  who  seems  imbued  with  the  spirit  of  his  office,  and  is 
a  liberal.  Christian  man.  He  resides  here  on  account  of  his 
health,  and  speaks  loudly  in  praise  of  the  climate.  I  think  a 
winter  here  must  be  pleasant  for  the  invalid.  Having  received 
in  the  morning  an  invitation  to  visit  the  vineyard  of  a  wealthy 
Spanish  gentleman,  we  took  carriages  and  drove  some  three  miles 
into  the  country.  The  vehicles  hired  were  caleches,  and  held 
four  persons.  Besides  several  of  these,  we  had  a  gig  that  held 
two,  and  the  driver  sat  on  the  side.  0,  how  much  of  amusement 
would  that  procession  have  created  in  Broadway !  I  did  not 
imagine  that  such  carriages  and  such  drivers  could  be  obtained 
in  such  a  city  as  Malaga.  The  man  who  drove  one  caleche  posi- 
tively resembled  a  baboon.  He  might  have  been  an  importation 
from  Abyla,  the  ape's  mountain.  His  face  was  the  most  shriv- 
elled-up  affair  I  ever  saw,  —  of  a  tawny-red  color,  with  an  awful 
grin,  —  whilst  his  arms  and  legs  were  in  perpetual  spasmodic 
motion.  The  harnesses  were  exceedingly  rude.  The  head-stalls 
run  down  to  an  iron  nose-piece,  of  semi-circular  form,  a  half-inch 
wide,  strapped  over  the  nose,  and  having  in  it  two  rings ;  from  the 
outside  one  of  which  a  rein  passes  to  the  driver,  and  from  the 
inside  one  of  which  a  rein  is  attached  to  the  corresponding  ring 
of  the  mate  in  a  double  team.  This  nose-piece  answers  the 
purpose  of  a  bit.  The  team  is  guided  by  single  reins.  Through 
the  pole,  about  a  foot  from  its  outer  end,  is  an  iron  pin  project- 


RIDE    TO    MR.    DELIUS'    VILLA    AND    VINEYARDS.      209 

ing  its  extremities  some  four  or  five  inches;  outside  this  pin  is  a 
layer  of  three  or  four  strands  of  half-inch  rope,  folded  around 
and  then  twisted  together  so  as  to  bring  it  snugly  against  the 
backing-pin,  and  thence  separated  to  run  through  supports  on 
the  collar,  and  thence  to  large  rings  in  the  breeching,  which  is 
of  leather,  and  three  inches  wide. 

Our  ride  out  of  the  city  was  very  pleasant,  but  we  were 
jolted  over  the  worst  road  I  ever  travelled  ;  leaving  Welsh  ones 
with  a  character  of  comparative  goodness.  We  passed  an  acque- 
duct,  and  here  for  the  first  time  saw  the  prickly-pear  in  its 
gigantic  form,  making  an  impenetrable  boundary -hedge.  It  was 
now  covered  with  its  yellow  fruit,  which  we  did  not  think  as 
palatable  as  did  the  urchins  of  Malaga,  who  were  munching  it  at 
overy  corner.  We  now  realized  that  we  were  in  a  tropical  cli- 
mate, for  on  every  side  we  saw  the  agave,  or  American  aloe, 
and  in  several  instances  had  the  gratification  of  looking  at  its 
towering,  spear-like  blossom.  A  ride  of  about  three  or  four 
miles  brought  us  to  the  charming  habitation  of  Edward  Delius, 
Esq.,  a  merchant  of  Mahiga.  The  name  of  this  estate  is,  I 
think,  Teutinos.  The  house  is  an  elegant  summer  residence,  and 
the  grounds  were  laid  out  in  much  taste  immediately  around  it. 
I  perfectly  revelled  in  the  show  of  geraniums,  myrtles,  ranuncu- 
luses and  oleanders.  At  every  turn  we  took  in  these  grounds 
we  met  with  orange  and  lemon  trees  in  full  blossom,  and  the  fig 
in  several  varieties.  The  vineyard  occupies  about  fifty  acres ; 
and  here  we  found  the  delicious  muscatel  just  ripening,  and  picked 
its  noble  clusters  from  the  scrubby  vines.  The  prospect  from 
these  gardens  of  the  city  is  very  fine ;  and,  as  the  cathedral 
loomed  up  in  the  evening  sky,  and  beyond  it  were  the  blue  waters 
of  the  Mediterranean,  and  the  dark  Moorish  castle  and  its  bat- 
tlements frowning  over  all  around,  we  thought  that  we  could 
spend  more  time  with  our  kind  host  very  agreeably ;  but  we  were 
obliged  to  take  leave.     In  walking  to  our  carriage,  I  observed 


210    MR.  CONSUL  SMITH  —  HARBOR  OF  MALAGA. 

that  Mr.  Delius  had  some  Durham  cattle  on  his  place,  and  thej 
looked  in  good  condition. 

On  our  return,  we  rode  through  the  Alameda,  which  is  well 
shaded  by  fine  trees,  and  under  which  the  pretty  women  were 
using  their  fans  most  bewitchingly.  This  spot  is  adorned  with 
statuary  and  fountains.  We  walked  through  the  Zacatin,  a  sort 
of  bazaar.  It  has  some  good  shops,  and  the  buildings  are  sup- 
ported by  columns.  We  resumed  our  carriages  and  drove  round 
the  mole,  and  had  a  fine  view  of  the  vast  Moorish  castles,  Gib- 
ralfaro,  and  the  ruins  of  Alcazaba,  which  crown  the  overhanging 
mountain.  The  soldiers  were  just  marching  up  the  zig-zag  road 
to  relieve  guard  for  the  night.  The  costume  of  the  muleteers, 
who  come  into  town  with  mules  and  asses,  and  are  numerous,  is 
very  picturesque.  The  gay  handkerchiefs,  and  richly-buttoned 
jackets,  and  heavy  leather  leggings,  make  quite  a  figure ;  and 
Jose  Cubero  has  immortalized  them  in  his  capital  statuettes.  I 
am  sure  we  all  felt  indebted  to  the  friendly  attentions  of  Mr. 
Consul  Smith  ;  and  it  was  with  reluctance  that  we  were  obliged 
to  decline  the  friendly  proposals  for  our  more  public  entertain- 
ment the  next  day.  At  about  eight  o'clock  we  mustered  our 
party,  and,  shaking  hands  with  our  kind  Malaga  friends,  rowed 
ofi"  to  the  North  Star. 

No  place  have  I  ever  seen  to  which  the  approach  is  more 
impressive.  The  back-ground  of  mountains  is  superb,  and  the 
outline  of  the  city  at  the  water-edge  is  very  pleasant.  No  win- 
ter is  experienced  at  this  place,  and  the  air  is  balmy.  We  all 
thought  that  we  had  never  breathed  so  freely  as  whilst  anchored 
in  this  charming  harbor  ;  and  I  really  think  our  sympathies  with 
those  who  sufier  from  quarantine  will  always  be  abated,  in  conse- 
quence of  our  delightful  recollections  of  the  days  of  our  embargo 
off  Malaga.  This  harbor  can  receive  four  hundred  merchantmen 
and  twenty  ships-of-the-line,  and  is  accessible  in  all  winds,  and 
affords  complete  shelter  to  shipping. 


CHAPTER  XV. 

OFF   FOR  LEGIIOR.^ CARTHAGENA IVICA MAJORCA MINORCA COR- 
SICA    SCENERY GORGONA  LEGHORN  HOTEL    ST.     MARCO FREE 

PORT OPERA SCOTCH  FREE  CHURCH SERVICE  ON  SABBATH  —  STREETS 

ADMIRABLY  PAVED EVENING  SERVICE THE  PARSONAGE-HOUSE GOS- 
PEL   IN    ITALY. 

August  2.  —  At  half-past  nine  p.  m.,  we  steamed  off  for  Leg- 
horn ;  standing  out  from  the  light  about  five  miles,  and  making 
a  direct  course  for  Cape  de  Gat,  and  running  in  very  close  to  the 
Spanish  coast.  "Wednesday,  the  3d,  we  had  fine  views  of  the 
grand  and  mountainous  shores ;  which,  however,  under  a  scorch- 
ing August  sun,  looked  brown  and  barren  enough.  Rounding 
Cape  de  Gat,  we  made  for  Carthagena,  the  new  Carthage  of  the 
Romans.  We  were  off  this  place  in  the  afternoon.  It  lies  in  a 
deep  basin,  and  is  well  sheltered,  having  one  of  the  best  harbors 
of  the  Mediterranean  Sea.  We  longed  to  enter,  but  were  obliged 
to  content  ourselves  with  a  sight.  The  population  is  about  thirty 
thousand.  This  evening,  we  saw  fifty-three  sail  at  once  from 
our  deck,  and  met  two  British  steamers.  Our  lightest  clothing 
now  came  into  requisition.  We  next  passed  Cape  Palos  in  full 
sight,  with  its  square  tower,  and  then  bore  away  for  the  north 
coast  of  Ivica,  distant  about  seven  miles.  All  along  its  shores 
we  observed  watch-towers  on  the  chief  headlands,  and  passed  a 
rock  which  resembled  a  venerable  cathedral.  We  now  bore 
away  for  Majorca,  and  coasted  it  at  a  distance  of  about  five  miles, 
having  a  fine  view  of  its  grand  shores.  The  scenery  is  very- 
romantic;  and,  from  the  Drogonera  Island  light  to  Cape  For- 
menton,  the  voyage  was  one  of  exquisite  enjoyment.  The  sea 
18 


212  LEGHORN. 

was  of  glassy  smoothness,  and  off  to  our  right  oie  long  succes- 
sion of  ever-changing  beauty  for  about  fifty  miles.  The  hills 
are  some  of  them  most  tastefully  formed,  their  peaks  lancet- 
shaped,  and  the  summits  of  many  are  tipped  with  snow.  The 
slopes  of  these  mountain  ranges,  which  appear  to  be  volcanic, 
are  luxuriant  vineyards,  and  inland  the  island  is  very  productive ; 
its  exports  are  grapes  and  oranges.  In  the  evening,  late,  we 
passed  off  Minorca,  and  saw  its  lighthouse,  on  the  north-eastern 
coast.  The  wind  rose  during  the  night,  and  the  5th  was  a  rough 
day,  the  sea  quartering  upon  us,  and  raking  from  the  Gulf  of 
Lyons.  During  the  night,  the  ship  rolled.  In  the  early  morn- 
ing, we  were  off  the  coast  of  Corsica,  made  Cape  Ridellata,  and 
crossed  the  Gulf  of  Fiozenzo.  The  sun  rose  gloriously  behind 
the  mountains.  We  then  passed  Giraglia  revolving  light,  and 
on  close  to  the  small  island  of  Gorgona,  so  famous  for  its 
anchovies.  We  now  made  direct  line  for  Leghorn,  and  anchored 
in  its  harbor  August  6th,  at  two  p.  m. 

The  appearance  of  this  city  is  fine  from  the  water,  and  its 
fortifications  and  grand  Lazaretto  give  it  a  very  imposing  aspect. 
We  were  boarded  by  a  health  ofiicer,  and  ordered  on  shore,  where 
we  soon  had  our  passports  put  in  order,  and  were  allowed  to 
land,  Mr.  Binda,  our  consul,  becoming  our  security. 

Here  are  two  large  basins,  which  are  shut  up  at  night  by  a 
chain  and  boom,  and  the  entrance  is  strongly  guarded  by  import- 
ant fortresses.  The  mole  extends  almost  a  mile  seaward,  is 
a  favorite  promenade,  and,  running  out  parallel  with  the  sea, 
forms  the  harbor.  The  lighthouse  stands  upon  a  rock,  and  is  a 
pretty  feature  in  the  view  of  the  town.  We  went  immediately 
to  the  St.  Marco  Hotel,  kept  by  Mr.  Smith,  an  Englishman. 
We  found  this  a  very  well-conducted  establishment,  with  spacious 
rooms,  and  an  excellent  table.  The  walls  are  covered  with  pic- 
tures, and  some  are  quite  good  ones.  After  dinner,  we  walked 
out,  made  a  few  purchases,  and  found  all  articles  of  clothing  as 
cheap  as  we  could  desire.     This  is  a  free  port,  and  the  stores 


OPERA  —  SCOTCH    FREE    CHURCH.  215 

are  admirably  supplied  with  English  and  French  goods.  We 
went  to  a  cafe,  and,  after  having  partaken  of  some  capital  cream 
and  water  ices,  were  surprised  at  finding  how  trifling  the  charge 
was  made  for  them.  Some  members  of  the  party  attended  the 
opera,  and  the  performance  was  Semiramis,  They  returned  much 
pleased,  and  reported  the  soprano,  contralto,  barytone  and  bass 
voices,  as  very  superior,  and  the  choral  and  orchestral  perform- 
ers more  efficient  than  they  had  found  in  London  or  Paris.  The 
house,  they  said,  was  elegantly  fitted  up,  and  they  judged  the 
audience  was  about  two  thousand.  There  are  five  rows  of  boxes 
—  in  all,  one  hundred  and  thirty-six  ;  the  Grand  Ducal  one 
elegantly  furnished.  The  box-fronts  are  painted  in  illustration 
of  Grreek  and  Roman  history.  The  drop-curtain  bears  a  fine 
representation  of  Caesar's  triumphant  entry  into  Rome. 

The  Sabbath  day,  Aug.  7,  was  a  delightful  day.  At  our 
breakfast  we  had  a  fine  supply  of  figs  and  peaches.  After 
breakfast  several  of  our  party  took  the  railroad  for  Florence.  I 
remained  to  pass  the  day  in  Leghorn,  and  inquired  my  way  to  the 
Scotch  Free  Church.  I  was  delighted  to  find  so  good  a  building. 
It  is  one  of  the  neatest  chapels  that  I  ever  worshipped  in.  It 
is  a  model  church,  for  its  size,  and  will  accommodate,  I  should 
think,  about  three  hundred  persons.  Elegance  and  taste  are 
apparent  in  every  arrangement;  and,  though  destitute  of  any 
gaudy  ornaments ;  it  is  rich  and  noble  in  appearance,  and 
would  do  no  discredit  to  a  palace,  for  a  monarch's  private  chapel. 
I  heard  a  capital  sermon,  —  really  an  eloquent  one,  —  from  a 
gentleman  who  is  supplying  Dr.  Stuart's  pulpit  during  his  visit 
to  Scotland  for  the  benefit  of  his  health.  After  service,  I  went 
into  the  vestry  and  library,  and  spoke  to  the  clergyman.  He 
warmly  pressed  me  to  take  the  evening  service,  and  this,  too,  was 
urged  by  Mr.  Henderson,  a  leading  member  of  the  church  ;  and, 
on  my  consenting,  we  were  invited  to  take  tea  in  the  evening 
after  sermon.  I  found  a  noble  library  belonging  to  Dr.  Stuart 
and  a  capital  library  for  parish  use. 


216  LEGHOKN  —  rOPERY. 

Leghorn  is  a  well-built  city,  and  the  best  paved  one  that  I 
ever  saw.  The  streets  are  wide,  paved  with  granite  blocks  about 
three  feet  long,  fifteen  inches  wide  and  six  inches  in  depth  ; 
they  are  very  solid  and  even,  and  are  laid  in  cement,  the  surface 
being  chisdled  to  accommodate  horses.  The  streets  were  really 
crowded  all  day ;  the  people  well  dressed,  and  having  a  happy, 
contented  air.  In  the  evening,  I  noticed  that  the  opera  was 
open.  After  preaching  at  the  Scotch  kirk,  we  followed  the  Kev. 
Mr.  Cicely  and  Mr.  Henderson,  the  banker,  into  the  parsonage, 
•which  is  under  the  same  roof  as  the  chapel.  At  the  tea- 
table  we  met  a  very  learned  Swiss  clergyman,  the  Rev.  Dr. 
Schaffter,  who  has  travelled  much  in  the  East,  declined  several 
professors'  chairs  in  Prussia,  and  is  now  expecting  to  labor  as  a 
missionary  in  Canada.  Mrs.  Choules  presided  at  the  tea-table, 
and  we  had  a  long  session,  dawdling,  as  Dr.  Johnson  called  it, 
over  our  cups  of  tea.  Mr.  Cicely  showed  us  over  the  spacious 
manse,  which  is  by  far  the  handsomest  parsonage  I  have  seen. 
The  rooms  are  large,  the  ceilings  lofty,  and  every  part  of  the 
house  commodious.  The  drawing-room  is  very  elegant,  with 
inlaid  floor ;  and  all  the  stairways  are  wide,  and  of  the  finest 
workmanship. 

I  would  not  omit  to  say  that  a  small  but  interesting  Sabbath- 
school  is  in  connection  with  this  place  of  worship.  It  is  pleasant 
to  know  that  pure  evangelical  truth  is  here  proclaimed,  even  amid 
the  black  darkness  of  Popery ;  and  I  was  glad  of  an  opportunity 
to  preach  the  gospel  in  Italy,  and  there  to  join  in  prayer  with 
God's  people,  that  He  would  soon  overturn  the  Man  of  Sin,  who, 
impiously  placing  himself  in  the  seat  of  the  Almighty,  lays  claim 
to  infallibility.  But  God  declares  that  he  will  not  give  his  glory 
to  another;  and  Popery,  by  this  fatal  assumption  of  a  divine  attri- 
bute, has  tied  around  her  neck  the  apocalyptic  millstone,  which  is 
at  last  to  sink  her  to  the  bottomless  abyss.  Mr.  Henderson  is  a 
Scotch  gentleman,  who  has  long  resided  here  ;  he  is  an  eminent 
merchant  and  banker,  and  has  a  mercantile  house  in  Liverpool 


ME.  HENDERSON  —  TOMB    OP    SMOLLETT.  217 

and  Canada.  He  sent  the  first  export  of  marble  to  New  York, 
and  a  small  quantity  overstocked  the  market.  Now  every  ship 
from  Leghorn  carries  out  vast  quantities  of  marble  from  the 
quarries  of  Carrara.  I  was  delighted  with  the  general  charac- 
ter of  this  excellent  man,  and  much  regretted  my  inability  to 
visit  him  at  his  villa  in  the  country.  Mr.  Henderson  was  as 
kind  as  possible,  and,  on  our  return  from  Florence,  proffered  me 
ver7  friendly  letters  of  credit  to  his  correspondents  at  Rome 
and  Naples.  In  the  English  burying-ground  at  Leghorn  is  the 
gra  'e  of  Tobias  Smollett,  the  novelist. 
18# 


CHAPTER    XVI. 

ABRIVE    AT     FLORENCE HOTEL     D'ITALIE BIDE CITY     AND     STREETS, 

ETC. PITT!    PALACE PICTURES CANOVA'S    VENUS DUKE'S    APART- 
MENTS  MUSEUM POWERS     AND     HART POWERS'     STUDIO     AND     UIS 

WORK hart's     STUDIO BUSTS     OF     AMERICANS STATUE     OF     HENRY 

CL4.T UFFIZII  GALLERY STATUARY TRIBUNE VENUS  DE  MEDICI 

KNIFE-GRINDER,  ETC. TITIAN'S  VENUSES RAPHAEL'S  PICTURES,  ETC. 

NIOBE RUBENS POWELL'S  DE  SOTO,  ETC. CATHEDRAL CAMPANILE 

BAPTISTERY SANTO  CROCE CHAPEL    OF    THE    MEDICI ST.  LOBBNZO 

SACRISTY MICHAEL  ANGELO'S   DAY    AND    NIGHT PALAZZO    VECCHIO 

DUCAL   PIAZZA STATUARY. 

On  Monday,  we  took  tlie  rail  for  Florence,  and  greatly  enjoyed 
the  journey,  which  lies  through  a  beautiful  region,  giving  proof 
of  careful  cultivation.  The  fields  are  small,  and  almost  every- 
where divided  ofi"  by  elms,  mulberry  and  plum  trees ;  and  these 
trees  are  gracefully  festooned  with  vines  laden  with  grapes.  Wo 
found  the  depot  at  Florence  situated  in  the  Cascine,  which  is  the 
Hyde  Park  of  this  city.  On  our  way  hither  we  had  frequent 
and  beautiful  sights  of  the  Arno,  and  saw  some  charming  villas 
perched  on  the  eminences  above  its  waters. 

On  arrival,  we  found  that  Mr.  Vanderbilt  had  politely  sent  a 
messenger  to  conduct  us  to  our  quarters,  which  were  provided  at 
the  Hotel  d'ltalie,  kept  by  Signer  Baldi ;  and  here  Mr.  V.  and 
his  own  family  were  also  established.  Our  elegant  apartments 
looked  out  upon  the  Arno,  and  upon  the  iron  balcony  into  which 
our  windows  led  we  passed  many  pleasant  hours  watching  the 
fishermen,  who  stood  up  in  the  water  breast-high,  casting  a  net, 
which  looked  like  a  balloon,  and  which  they  elevated  every  few 
minutes.     The  fisl    appeared  very  small,  and  not  as  large  as 


FLORENCE  —  ITS  STREETS,    ETC.  219 

smelts.  The  ;rospect  beyond  the  river  was  exceedingly  fine ; 
height  upon  height,  and  church  and  convent  crowning  each  emi- 
nence, and  then  giving  us  glances  of  the  bridges.  That  balcony 
will  long  live  in  our  memories,  and  I  commend  the  apartments  in 
the  rear  of  the  Hotel  d'ltalie,  to  all  wayfarers. 

I  always  commence  a  new  city  by  a  ride  through  its  streets, 
that  I  may  have  a  general  comprehension  of  the  "  lay  of  the 
land."  I  was  at  once  satisfied,  with  a  rapid  survey,  that  Rogers 
had  not  overcharged  its  character. 

This  city,  which  deserves  its  appellation,  the  fair,  is  situated 
ia  a  beautiful  valley  at  the  base  of  the  Apennines.  It  is  nearly 
six  miles  in  circumference,  almost  oval  in  its  plan,  and  its  popu- 
lation is  about  one  hundred  thousand.  Many  of  the  streets  are 
narrow,  but  there  are  several  very  fine  ones.  The  squares  do 
not  please  me  as  much  as  those  in  other  cities.  The  ^great  feat- 
ure of  the  city  is  the  picturesque  Arno,  which,  shallow  in  the 
summer,  becomes  a  swollen  stream  in  winter,  from  the  rain  and 
snows  of  the  mountains.  The  palaces  are  numerous,  and  very 
imposing  in  their  appearance.  Some  are  built  of  massive  stones, 
in  a  rustic  style  of  architecture.  The  walls  of  the  city  are  in 
good  preservation,  and  two  or  three  of  the  eight  gates  are  very 
handsome.  The  pavement  is  composed  of  broad  flag-stones,  and 
these,  as  in  Leghorn,  are  chiselled  to  save  the  horses  from  slipping. 
All  around  the  city  are  delightful  gardens  and  fertile  meadows. 
The  four  bridges  which  span  the  Arno  are  all  tine  ones ;  but  the 
bridge  of  the  Trinity  is  regarded  as  the  most  beautiful  one  in 
Europe.  The  old  bridge  has  a  covered  way,  and  on  each  side  are 
jewellers'  shops,  or  stalls.  All  around  the  city  are  hills  covered 
with  villas,  churches,  convents,  olive-trees,  and  vineyards. 

Our  first  visit  was  made  to  the  Pitti  palace,  which  is  the 
present  ducal  residence.  It  was  built  by  Luke  Pitti,  who  in- 
tended to  rival  the  Strozzi  palace.  A  reverse  of  fortunes  caused 
it  to  pass  from  him  while  yet  mifinished ;  and,  in  1559,  it  came 
into  possession  of  the  Medici  family. 


220  PIITI   PALACE  —  PICTUKES. 

Although  this  palace  is  heavy  in  its  appearance,  owing  to  the 
massive  rustic  style,  yet  it  is  a  most  admirable  royal  habitation. 
Every  part  of  the  palace  is  spacious,  and  adapted  to  its  purpose. 
I  found  everything  in  that  order  which  indicated  care  and  preser- 
vation. The  entrance  is  by  a  corridor  and  stairway  of  noble 
dimensions.  The  great  attraction  is  the  treasure  of  art  which  is 
here  to  be  found,  both  in  sculpture  and  painting.  The  arrange- 
ment of  the  apartments  deserves  praise ;  and,  as  in  the  gallery 
at  the  Hermitage,  the  spectator  is  provided  with  sofa,  chair  and 
lounge,  for  his  comfort  while  enjoying  this  wondrous  collection. 
The  pictures  at  present  number  nearly  five  hundred  and  fifty  ; 
and  this  gallery  embraces  the  treasures  of  the  Medici  family, 
and  the  two  last  dukes  have  lavished  vast  sums  in  additions  from 
the  churches  and  monasteries  of  Tuscany.  The  apartments  take 
their  names  usually  from  the  subjects  of  the  gorgeous  frescos 
which  adorn  the  ceilings.  Thus  the  halls  of  Venus,  of  Mars,  of 
Saturn,  &c.,  are  all  adorned  with  allegorical  descriptions  of  the 
virtues  of  the  Cosmo  family.  The  pictures  which  are  world- 
renowned  must  not  be  criticized  by  the  ignorant.  But  I  may 
mention  those  which  pleased  me  best,  and  have  made  a  lasting 
impression  upon  my  mind. 

Let  me  name  the  portraits  first.  I  regard  the  Pope  Julius 
II.,  by  Raphael,  as  the  grandest  portrait  I  ever  looked  upon. 
The  duplicate  in  the  Ufiizii  is,  fine  as  it  is,  another  thing.  I  have 
seen  nothing  to  compare  with  it  but  a  portrait  in  St.  Petersburg, 
to  which,  I  think,  I  have  alluded.  Next,  I  liked  Vandyke's 
Cardinal  Bentivoglio,  which  no  living  painter  can  equal.  Two 
portraits  by  Raphael,  of  a  female  and  her  husband,  are  wonder- 
fully effective.  The  Leo  X.,  by  Raphael,  does  not  strike  me 
so  pleasantly.  The  picture  lacks  ease,  and  the  grouping  of  the 
three  figures  is  constrained.  The  head  of  Grotius,  by  Rubens, 
is  full  of  energy.  A  portrait  of  Philip  II.,  by  Titian,  is  a  life- 
like picture ;  it  is  all  but  living.  An  old  man,  by  Titian,  is  a 
wonderful  execution.     Some  writers  call  it  a  Rembrandt. 


I'lTTI    PALACE  —  PICTURES — SCULPTUKES.  221 

The  Madonna  della  Seggiola  brought  us  all  to  stand  and 
admire.  I  have  seen  good  copies  all  over  the  world,  but  they 
lose  their  charm  after  seeing  so  much  of  heavenly  beauty  and 
earthly  sweetness  as  this  glorious  work  of  Raphael  exhibits. 
After  leaving  this,  I  lingered  longest  over  a  small  picture  — 
Ezekiel's  Vision  —  by  Raphael.  This  is  strangely  beautiful. 
God,  the  Father,  appears  in  celestial  glory,  surrounded  by 
cherubs,  his  arms  supported  by  genii,  and  resting  on  the  ox, 
lion  and  eagle.  And  here,  too,  is  an  angel  rapt  in  adoration. 
Everything  is  easy,  free,  and  the  eye  is  fastened  on  the  canvas 
of  this  remarkable  picture.  The  Fates,  by  Michael  Angelo,  is  a 
very  striking  picture,  and  pleased  me  more  than  it  does  the 
critics  usually.  It  is  also  ascribed  to  Rosso  Fiorentino.  Titian's 
Magdalen  is  hardly  a  penitent,  but  is  perfect  beauty.  Two 
Marine  Views,  by  Salvator  Rosa,  are  exceedingly  fine.  A  St. 
Mark,  by  Fra.  Bartolemeo,  is  a  grand  eifort.  The  Murder  of 
Abel,  by  Andrea  Schiavone,  has  a  sweet  bit  of  landscape,  and  is 
a  picture  richly  deserving  of  careful  study ;  this  is  in  coloring 
very  like  Titian.  I  dare  not  omit  Guide's  Cleopatra,  of  which 
I  obtained  a  copy ;  and  also  one  of  the  Madonna  in  the  chair  on 
ivory.  In  a  saloon  of  this  palace  stands  the  famous  Venus  of 
Canova.  I  have  rarely  ever  had  my  expectations  so  raised  as 
in  reference  to  this  sculpture.  I  was  entirely  disappointed, 
although  Canova  was  the  artist,  and  his  statue  is  renowned. 
The  attitude  is  forced,  unnatural,  and  next  to  impossible.  The 
head  cannot  be  turned  off  at  such  an  angle  without  doing  a  vio- 
lence to  the  mastoid  muscle,  which  precludes  the  idea  of  ease  and 
comfort.  No  being  can  direct  the  head  as  the  Venus  does,  with- 
out producing  a  distortion  of  the  muscle.  That  which  is  not 
natural  cannot  be  beautiful.  The  finish  is  fine,  but  everything 
is  over-done,  too  labored,  and  that  evidently.  The  private  rooms 
of  the  palace  were  shown  us,  and  they  are  very  magnificent. 
The  floors  are  richly  inlaid,  and  the  ceilings  exquisitely  frescoed. 
The  apartments  are  filled  with  tables  of  the  costliest  character, 


222  IIIRAM    POWEj'S. 

and  the  doors  are  many  of  tlieiu  of  exquisite  workmanship  and 
design. 

From  this  place  we  repaired  to  the  museum.  This  is  emi- 
nently adapted  to  the  use  of  medical  students,  as  some  fifteen  or 
twenty  rooms  are  filled  with  was  preparations,  illustrative  of 
anatomy  and  morbid  appearances  of  the  human  system,  and 
several  rooms  are  devoted  to  natural  history.  The  representa- 
tions of  the  human  body  are  entirely  life-like,  and  the  descrip- 
tions of  the  progress  of  the  plague  upon  the  patient  are  terrifically 
minute.  The  plague  desolated  Florence  in  1348,  and  more  than 
forty-five  thousand  fell  as  victims. 

Mr.  Vanderbilt's  family  having  pressed  him  to  favor  them  by 
sitting  to  our  honored  countryman,  Mr.  Powers,  he  called  at  his 
studio,  and  made  arrangements  for  a  bust;  and  at  the  same 
time  Mrs.  Vanderbilt  was  requested  by  her  sons-in-law  to  sit  to 
Mr.  Hart. 

Our  visits  were  frequent  to  the  studios,  and  we  had  much 
pleasure  in  examining  the  charming  productions  of  the  chisels 
of  our  distinguished  countrymen.  I  couple  these  gentlemen 
together,  because,  though  Powers  is  the  sculptor  of  the  world,  and 
is  the  foremost  artist  of  the  age,  still  Mr.  Hart  has  distinguished 
genius,  and,  with  the  opportunities  now  afforded  him  to  make  his 
countrymen  know  him,  will  soon  obtain  their  highest  plaudits. 
Powers  is  a  glorious,  noble  creature ;  he  is  a  man  to  look  upon, 
and  his- eye  is  the  finest  that  I  know  of,  since  death  closed  those 
orbs  of  light  around  whose  flashes  was  sometimes  thrown  a  ter- 
rible darkness,  —  eyes  which  this  great  artist  will  soon  attempt  to 
place  forever  in  his  country's  gaze.  On  every  side  Powers  has 
forms  of  beauty ;  but  I  am  jealous  of  the  labors  of  such  a  man, 
when  appropriated  by  individuals ;  he  should  work  only  for  cities, 
states  and  the  Union.  Talents  like  those  granted  to  Powers 
should  be  devoted  to  the  adornment  of  our  national  buildings, 
our  halls  of  science,  our  great  squares.  I  regard  Powers  as  a 
true  object  of  American  pride.     If  he  died  to-morrow,  his  fel- 


ME.  hart's  studio.  223 

low-citizens  all  over  the  Union  would  lament  his  loss ;  every 
newspaper  would  exult  in  recapitulating  the  wonderful  works  of 
his  genius ;  but  how  few  of  these  would  be  found  on  the  high 
places  of  his  country,  to  incite  and  stimulate  the  talent  of  the 
American  youth  !  Some  female  heads  in  his  studio  are  very 
beautiful,  and  I  was  much  struck  with  an  esquisite  bust  just 
completed  of  Mrs.  Penniman,  of  New  York.  His  heads  of  the 
great  men  were  very  noble  representations ;  but  I  was  far  less 
pleased  with  that  of  Webster  than  with  many  of  the  others. 
Those  of  Calhoun,  Cass,  Everett,  Winthrop,  are  all  that  can  be 
asked ;  but  Webster  is  not  sufl&ciently  massive.  I  doubt  not 
that  the  great  work  just  placed  in  Mr.  Powers'  hands  will  be  his 
chef-d'cBuvre,  for  he  will  make  it,  I  know,  a  work  of  love.  It  is 
certain,  when  he  has  seen  the  latest  representations  of  the 
great  statesman,  that  he  will  send  to  Massachusetts  a  statue 
worthy  to  be  placed  near  to  Chantrey's  favorite  one  of  Wash- 
ington. 

In  Mr.  Hart's  studio,  which  is  elegant  and  spacious,  I  was 
delighted  with  his  heads  of  WicklifFe,  Cass  and  Crittenden. 
Governor  Crittenden's  bust  is,  I  think,  as  perfect  a  realization 
of  the  man  and  his  character  as  was  ever  chiselled  out  of  niarble. 
I  could  almost  say  to  it,  "Now  utter  words  of  wisdom,  —  or  a 
joke."  It  does  all  but  speak.  The  great  work  on  which  Mr. 
Hart  is  employed  is  a  statue  of  Mr.  Clay,  for  the  ladies  of  Vir- 
ginia. The  cast  is  completed,  and  is  the  only  likeness  of  the 
great  man  that  ever  quite  satisfied  my  eye.  Nearly  every  bust 
and  picture  is  a  likeness,  ay,  and  unmistakable ;  but  generally 
there  is  a  coarseness  which  did  not  belong  to  the  orator.  Here 
the  likeness  is  perfect,  and  yet  the  air  and  spirit  is  gentlemanly ; 
the  attitude  cannot  be  improved.  We  all  felt  that  we  were  only 
admiring  the  first  appearance  of  a  work  of  genius  which  will  be 
sure  to  become  the  praise  of  the  whole  country.  We  saw  the 
immense  block  from  which  the  statue  is  to  be  created.  How 
long  will  it  be  ere  nature's  quarry  shall   again  furnish  us  with 


224  UFFIZII    GALLERY. 

other  Clays,  Calhouns  and  Websters  ?  At  present,  in  lack  of 
them,  we  are  called  to  bow  down  to  small  lights,  and  moderate 
talents,  and  magnificent  pretensions.  I  saw  Hart  at  work  ;  he, 
too,  is  a  genius.  He  works  easily ;  has  a  large  heart,  good  head, 
is  no  pretender,  but  can,  with  confidence,  point  to  his  labor,  and 
say,  "  Look  at  it."  I  am  sure  his  head  of  Mrs.  Vanderbilt,  iu 
four  sittings,  was  as  complete  a  likeness  as  was  ever  moulded. 
Hart  is  about  forty  years  of  age,  and  his  name  will  soon  be  one 
of  the  honored  ones  in  the  heraldry  of  American  art. 

Mr.  Powers'  efforts  on  Mr.  V.  we  all  watched  with  great  in- 
terest. The  artist  was  delighted  with  the  head  and  figure,  and  he 
was  engaged  evidently  con  amore ;  his  subject  sat  charmed 
with  the  originality  of  his  eloquent  conversation.  If  the  result 
was  not  a  perfect  representation  of  a  head  of  rare  power  and 
command,  I  am  no  judge,  and  we  were  all  of  us  mistaken. 
Long  as  the  marble  lasts  will  that  face  evince  its  striking  force 
and  power. 

I  shall  never  forget  the  day  I  entered  the  Uffizii  gallery.  It 
is  to  every  man  who  makes  his  first  visit  a  memorable  day.  The 
palace  was  commenced  in  1560.  It  was  built  by  Cosmo 
I.,  and  is  the  noblest  collection  of  statuary  in  Europe,  if,  per- 
.haps,  we  except  the  Vatican.  The  gallery  was  organized  in 
1765.  Its  two  longest  sides  are  five  hundred  and  twenty-five 
feet  long,  and  thirty-five  in  breadth.  On  one  side  there  is  a  vast 
number  of  windows,  to  afford  proper  light  in  the  galleries ;  all 
these  apartments  are  lofty,  and  adorned  with  rich  frescos.  The 
statues  and  busts  of  the  Roman  emperors  are  exceedingly  rare 
and  valuable ;  and  here  are  those  of  Agrippa,  Otho,  Caligula 
and  Nerva.  A  vast  many  of  these  busts  are  indicative  of  brutal 
character. 

I  hurried  through  this  gallery  of  marble,  that  at  last  I  might 
enjoy  the  desire  of  my  life,  and  stand  in  the  Tribune.  Was  I 
disappointed  at  my  entrance  ?  No ;  the  apartment  itself  is  a 
fitting  home  for  the  rich  treasures  which  it  contains.     The  dome 


THE   TRIBUNE  —  SCULrTURES  AND    PAINTINGS.      225 

is  radiant  with  mother-of-pearl,  which  is  copiously  inlaid,  and 
the  pavement  is  a  mosaic  of  the  costliest  marbles,  in  the  most 
tasteful  forms.  This  is  the  holy  place  of  art,  and  here  sculpture 
and  painting  nobly  contend  for  the  preeminence.  And  there  is 
Venus :  —  men  may  talk  and  censure  long  and  severely ;  but,  so 
long  as  the  eye  can  find  charms  in  beauty,  so  long  will  this 
marble  find  admirers.  It  is  another  thing  than  Canova's,  over 
in  the  other  palace.  The  Scythian  ordered  to  flay  Marsyus,  or, 
as  some  call  him,  the  knife-grinder,  is  a  long  study.  What  won- 
drous knowledge  of  the  frame  the  sculptor  possessed  !  It  is  life- 
like, and  its  details  are  as  minute  and  truthful  as  are  the  pictures 
of  Teniers  or  Ostade.  The  Appolino  is  the  perfection  of  grace. 
The  Wrestlers  belong  to  the  same  class  of  art  as  the  Knife- 
grinder  or  Scythian.  The  two  Venuses,  by  Titian,  are  paintings 
which  do  more  to  educate  our  taste  for  coloring  in  an  hour,  than 
a  month's  survey  of  painted  canvas,  spread  over  acres  of  common 
galleries.  The  portrait  of  Julius  II.,  grand  as  it  is,  does  not 
strike  me  as  at  all  equal  to  the  one  in  the  Pitti  palace ;  both  are 
by  Raphael.  The  Fornarina  did  not  come  up  to  my  anticipations, 
after  seeing  it  engraved.  The  two  Holy  Families,  and  John  in 
the  Desert,  are  holy,  heavenly  things.  What  are  paintings  worth 
but  for  the  effects  which  they  produce  on  those  who  see  them  ? 
What  every  one  feels  is  nature,  is  truth.  The  man  who  ad- 
dresses human  sympathies,  and  speaks  a  language  that  his  fellows 
comprehend,  is  beyond  the  paltry  criticisms  of  the  artists  of  this 
age. 

The  Holy  Family,  of  Andrea  del  Sarto,  is  as  lovely  a  repre- 
sentation of  maternal  love  as  the  gallery  contains.  I  difi"er  from 
many  in  relation  to  the  Holy  Family  by  Michael  Angelo,  called 
harsh,  severe,  rigid ;  the  wretchedly  bad  taste  in  throwing  in  the 
back  figures  has  done  much  to  destroy  its  eSect ;  but  the  drawing 
is  masterly.  A  Madonna,  by  Corregio,  adoring  the  child,  is  very 
lovely.  A  Charles  V.  on  horseback,  by  Vandyke,  is  a  noble 
picture.  I  was  greatly  pleased  with  the  pictures  of  the  Floren- 
19 


226  Powell's  de  soto  —  cathedral. 

tine  school.  A  gallery  of  portraits  of  painters  is  interesting, 
and  here  are  fine  autograph  portraits  of  Raphael,  Perugino, 
Velasquez,  Rubens,  &c.  In  this  room,  I  was  struck  with  the 
Medicean  Vase,  which  represents  the  sacrifice  of  Iphigenia ;  it  is 
very  ancient,  and  came  from  Greece,  but  was  found  at  Adrian's 
villa.  The  Hall  of  Niobe  presents  these  wondrous  remains  of 
antiquity,  —  statues  supposed  to  be  the  work  of  Praxiteles. 
The  Dying  Son  is  a  death-like  figure.  In  this  saloon  is  a  picture 
which  I  would  walk  far  to  see  again,  —  Rubens'  Henry  IV.  at 
the  Battle  of  Ivry.  This  is  very  fine,  and  the  horse  is  one  of 
almost  unsurpassable  beauty. 

This  horse  reminds  me  that  I  omitted  to  speak,  in  my  record 
of  Paris,  that  we  were  very  kindly  called  upon  by  Mr.  Powell, 
the  distinguished  artist,  to  invite  the  party  to  see  his  great  pic- 
ture ordered  by  Congress  for  the  last  vacant  niche  in  the 
rotunda  of  the  Capitol.  The  subject,  as  is  well  known,  is  the 
scene  of  De  Soto  taking  possession  of  the  Mississippi  country. 
We  were  very  much  delighted  with  this  grand  picture ;  and  Mr. 
Vanderbilt,  an  admirable  judge  of  a  horse,  regards  the  horse  on 
which  De  Soto  sits  as  the  best  he  ever  saw.  In  the  same  studio 
we  saw  some  capital  portraits  of  Lamartine,  Hugo,  Dumas,  and 
other  famous  men  of  the  day. 

I  repaired  again  and  again  to  these  charming  rooms,  and  spent 
hours  of  happiness,  which  will,  I  hope,  prove  fruitful  of  much 
future  pleasure. 

My  visit  to  the  Cathedral  was  on  a  fine  morning,  when  a  high 
mass  was  in  celebration,  and  about  four  hundred  priests  were  in 
full  canonicals  and  parade.  Its  foundations  were  laid,  1298,  by 
Arnolfo,  and  the  building  was  designed  to  be  between  the 
pointed  and  ancient  style.  The  walls  on  the  outside  are  covered 
with  colored  marbles.  Its  length  is  four  hundred  and  fifty-four 
feet ;  its  elevation  from  the  pavement  to  the  summit  of  the 
cross  three  hundred  and  eighty -seven  feet;  the  transept  three 
hundred  and  thirty-four  feet  long,  the  nave  one  hundred  and 


CATHEDRAL  —  BRUNELLESCIII  —  GIOTTO.  227 

fifty-three  feet  high,  and  the  aisles  ninety-six  and  a  half  feet 
high.  When  Arnolfo  died,  in  1300,  Giotto  became  the  builder, 
in  1331.  He  erected  the  facade  and  the  campanile,  which  was 
his  pet  work.  Up  to  the  sixteenth  century  it  was  adorned  with 
the  best  works  of  the  great  masters,  especially  of  Donatello.  In 
1558,  it  was  almost  destroyed,  to  be  rebuilt  in  modern  style.  In 
1636,  another  facade  was  begun,  but  was  abandoned;  and  now  a 
more  miserable-looking,  unfinished  stone  front  can  hardly  be  seen  ; 
it  looks  all  the  worse  by  a  comparison  with  the  splendor  of 
the  rest  of  the  edifice.  A  popular  notion  exists  that  churches 
in  Italy  are  kept  in  an  unfinished  state  to  avoid  a  tax  to  the 
Pope,  which  never  commences  until  the  completion  of  the 
edifice.  In  1420,  Brunelleschi  was  employed  to  construct  the 
cupola.  This  architect  studied  at  Rome,  and  there  projected 
what  before  was  deemed  impossible,  namely,  to  unite  the  four 
naves  of  this  great  cathedral  by  throwing  over  them  a  spacious 
cupola.  Although  opposed  by  ignorance  in  high  places  and  the 
selfishness  of  his  rivals,  3'et  he  lived  to  complete  his  design,  with 
the  exception  of  some  outside  work,  for  which  he  left  plans. 
This  cupola  is  octagonal,  one  hundred  and  thirty-eight  feet  six 
inches  in  diameter,  and  one  hundred  and  thirty-three  feet  three 
inches  in  height  from  the  cornice  of  the  Duomo.  Its  greatest 
praise  is  that  Michael  Angelo  made  it  his  model  when  he  erected 
the  dome  of  St.  Peter's.  This  is  the  largest  dome  in  the  world. 
The  exterior  view  from  the  south-east  is  most  imposing,  and  here 
is  seen  the  dome  rising  from  the  surrounding  smaller  cupolas. 
The  dome  is  painted  by  Vassari  and  Zuccheri ;  the  subjects  are 
prophets,  angels,  saints.  Paradise,  and  the  figures  are  colossal. 

I  felt  gratified  to  see  the  graves  of  Giotto  and  Brunelleschi, 
who  sleep  in  close  neighborhood.  A  David,  by  Donatello,  is 
very  fine ;  and  an  unfinished  group  in  the  rear  of  the  high  altar, 
of  the  Entombment  of  the  Saviour's  body,  by  Michael  Angelo, 
is  so  beautiful  as  to  create  regret  that  it  was  not  completed  by 
the  great  artist.     It  was  in  this  duomo  that  Julian  was  murdered 


228        ST.  John's  baptisti;ry  —  santa  croce. 

by  tlie  side  of  bis  brother,  Lorenzo  the  Magnificent,  in  1478. 
The  general  aspect  of  the  church  is  fine  and  devotional.  The 
Campanile,  or  tower  for  the  bells,  is  the  work  of  Giotto,  and  is  a 
remarkable  edifice  ;  with  all  its  altitude,  it  has  but  four  stories. 
The  architect  intended  to  surmount  the  tower  with  a  spire,  and 
the  piers  are  visible  which  were  to  support  the  erection.  As  a 
matter  of  course,  we  looked  after  Dante's  stone,  where  he  was 
wont  to  gaze  upon  the  growing  wonder  of  the  rising  cathedral. 
Close  by  are  the  modern  statues  of  Arnolfo  and  Brunelleschi. 

In  front  of  the  Duomo  and  Campanile  stands  the  Baptistery  of 
St.  John.  The  bronze  gates  of  this  building  are  the  chief  sup- 
ports of  its  fame.  They  must  be  wondrously  beautiful  to  have 
caused  Michael  Angelo  to  say  that  they  were  fit  to  be  the  gates 
of  Paradise !  The  south  gate,  designed  by  Giotto,  was  com- 
pleted by  Andrea  Pisano  in  1330,  and  its  erection  was  celebrated 
as  a  festival  all  through  Tuscany.  The  northern  and  eastern 
gates  were  added  in  1400-1422,  by  Ghiberti.  The  north  gate 
illustrates  the  life  of  Christ,  the  south  the  life  of  John,  and  the 
east  the  events  of  the  Old  Testament.  The  Baptistery  is  an 
octagon,  supporting  a  cupola  and  lantern.  The  wall  was  erected 
by  Arnolfo,  1293.  Vast  figures  in  mosaic  adorn  the  dome,  and 
the  Lucifer  of  Dante  appears  in  the  frescos.  All  the  baptisms  of 
Florence  occur  here ;  and  several  of  our  party,  at  various  visits, 
saw  the  ceremony  of  christening. 

From  this  place  we  turned  our  attention  to  the  Westminster 
Abbey  of  this  city,  —  Santa  Croce.  This  was  established  by 
monks  sent  by  St.  Francis,  1212,  and  Arnolfo  commenced  this 
church  1294.  The  exterior  is  as  rude  as  anything  can  be  in 
architecture,  but  the  interior  is  grave  and  majestic.  Here  are 
the  monuments  of  Michael  Angelo,  Dante,  Alfieri,  by  Canova ; 
Machiavelli,  Fossombroni,  Alberti,  Galileo.  A  series  of  chapels 
are  well  worthy  of  careful  notice,  and  in  one  is  Bartolini's 
exquisite  monument  to  a  Russian  princess. 

W    had  read  and  heard  so  much  of  the  gorgeous  Chapel  of  the 


CHURCH    OF   ST.    LORENZO.  229 

Medici,  that  we  fully  expected  a  treat ;  nor  were  we  at  all  disap- 
pointed, although  I  do  not  think  it  has  been  marked  by  good  taste. 
It  was  intended  for  the  resting-place  of  the  holy  sepulchre.  This 
chapel  is  far  from  completed.  The  walls  are  literally  covered  up 
with  the  richest  specimens  of  marble,  lapis-lazuli,  jasper,  chal- 
cedony and  Florcutine  mosaic,  in  which  all  the  colors  and 
shadings  arc  natural  to  the  stones  employed.  All  the  coats  of 
arms  of  the  Tuscan  states  and  cities  are  ranged  around,  in  mosaic 
work.  Nothing  can  be  more  elegant  than  the  cenotaphs  of  the 
Medici  family.  The  bodies  are  in  a  crypt  beneath  this  chapel. 
Seventeen  millions  of  dollars  have  been  espended  upon  this 
sepulchral  palace  ! 

The  church  of  St.  Lorenzo,  which  dates  from  1425,  has  much 
that  is  beautiful ;  and  this  cannot  fail  to  be  the  case  where 
Brunelleschi  designed  and  Donatello  adorned  a  building.  The 
sacristy,  or  a  small  chapel,  is  the  great  attraction  of  this  church. 
This  small  erection  was  designed  by  Michael  Angelo  to  receive 
monuments  for  Lorenzo  de  Medici,  the  grandson  of  Lorenzo  the 
Magnificent,  and  Griuliano  de  Medici,  a  son  of  the  Magnificent. 
The  monuments  to  these  individuals  are  in  white  marble,  by 
Michael  Angelo,  and  are  regarded  as  his  undoubted  master- 
pieces. They  have  a  strong  characteristic  resemblance,  and  are 
somewhat  enigmatical,  as  it  is  hard  to  tell  what  Day  and  Night, 
Morning  and  Evening,  have  to  do  with  these  worthies.  No 
satisfactory  solution  has  been  aiForded ;  but  there  is  the  marble, 
and  there,  as  long  as  that  marble  lasts,  will  men  congregate  to 
admire,  and  wonder  at  the  near  approach  of  sculpture  to  lan- 
guage. 

The  figure  of  Lorenzo  creates  awe.  He  sits  in  armor,  and  ho 
chains  the  eye.  Poor,  indeed,  are  most  other  statues  after  this 
has  been  seen.  I  do  not  like  the  chapel  in  which  they  stand ; 
each  should  have  a  Gothic  sanctuary  for  its  own  sole  occupation, 
of  which  it  should  be  the  shrine. 

I  scarcely  ever  walked  out  but  I  found  myself  attracted  to 
19# 


230  PALAZZO   VECCHIO. 

the  Palazzo  Vecchio.  This  building  was  erected  1298,  and  was 
the  dwelling-place  of  the  Gonfaloniere.  In  1540,  when  the 
republic  died,  it  became  the  palace  of  Cosmo  I.  I  know  few 
buildings  that  can  compare  with  it  in  dark,  awful  grandeur.  The 
battlements  are  massive,  and  the  overhanging  machiolations,  and 
the  tower  springing  up  from  their  support,  give  it  an  imposing 
air,  such  as  I  have  seen  nowhere  else.  All  around  are  wonder- 
ful things.  There,  is  an  equestrian  statue  of  Cosmo  I. ;  there,  a 
fountain  of  Neptune.  Near  this  fountain,  in  the  days  of  the 
republic,  stood  the  Tribune.  Here  is  the  glorious  David  of 
Michael  Angelo  ;  and  there,  as  a  match,  is  Hercules  destroying 
Cacus,  by  Bandinelli.  The  David  is  far  the  finest,  and  belongs 
to  the  same  class  of  statuary  with  the  Medicean  statues  just 
alluded  to  in  the  sacristy.  Here  are  large  porticos,  which  you 
ascend  by  steps,  and  in  front  a  spacious  square.  On  these  por- 
ticos are  some  wonderful  pieces  of  artistic  excellence.  There,  at 
the  corner,  stands  the  Perseus  of  Benevenuto  Cellini,  the  cast- 
ing of  which  is  so  graphically  recorded  in  his  life.  At  the  other 
end,  as  a  match-piece,  is  the  Rape  of  the  Sabincs,  by  John  of 
Bologna.  Judith  slaying  Holofernes,  by  Donatcllo,  is  a  pretty 
bronze,  but  small.     Here  are  several  colossal  females,  lions,  &c. 


CHAPTER  17II. 

SANTA  MAEIA  NOVELLA  —  PAINTINGS — SPEZIERIA  —  RESIDENCE  OF  MICHAEL 

ANGELO CHURCH    OF    THE    ANNUNCIATION THE    CASCINE SCENERY 

MOUNTAINS THE  BRIDGES FRIENDS  IN  FLORENCE OLIVER  CROM- 
WELL'S    PORTRAIT IMPRESSIONS     OF    FLORENCE LEAVE    FOR   PISA 

THE  CITY LEANING  TOWER CATHEDRAL CAMPO  SANTO THE  BAP- 
TISTERY  SANTA  MARIA  BELLA  SPINA THE  CAMELS LEGHORN GOV- 
ERNMENT  ALARMED    AT    OUR   YACHT VISITORS,    ETC. 

I  MUST  not  omit  a  visit  which  -we  paid  to  the  church  of  Santa 
Maria  Novella,  belonging  to  the  preaching  friars.  They  made  a 
missionary  eifort  here  1216,  and  in  1222  had  a  small  church,  the 
ground  of  which  is  included  within  the  confines  of  their  noble 
convent.  This  is  a  large  establishment,  and  comprises  a  church, 
two  cloisters,  several  quadrangles,  refectory,  sacristy,  chapter- 
house, &c.  This  edifice  is  a  finished  one.  The  grand  facade 
was  completed  1470,  in  the  Pisan  style.  The  church  was  begun 
1279.  The  Campanile  is  a  tower  with  a  spire,  which  is  Roman- 
esque ;  but  the  church  itself  is  Gothic,  and  is  adorned  with  fine 
stained  glass.  The  fresco  of  the  choir  is  by  Ghirlandio.  In  the 
arches  of  the  roof  are  the  four  Evangelists,  by  Strozzi,  which  were 
finished  1583.  Here,  at  the  altar,  is  the  famous  Crucifix,  by 
Brunelleschi.  In  the  Strozzi  Chapel  are  frescos  of  Orgagna. 
A  very  famous  picture  is  in  this  church  by  Cimabue.  It  is  a 
Virgin  and  Child,  on  a  gold  ground.  Vasari  says  it  was  ex- 
ecuted in  a  garden,  and  carried  to  the  church  in  solemn  proces- 
sion, with  the  sound  of  trumpets.  Several  good  monuments  are 
to  be  seen ;  one  of  a  Saint  Villana,  canonized  in  1824,  but 
whose  sanctity  is  called  in  question ;   she  is  sleeping  in  death, 


234  RESIDENCE    OF   MICHAEL   ANGELO. 

and  two  most  beautiful  angels  are  looking  over  her,  bearing  a 
scroll  on  which  her  epitaph  is  written.  The  sacristy  is  an  ex- 
quisite room,  and  has  fine  windows  of  painted  glass.  The  clois- 
ters are  filled  with  many  works  of  art.  The  chapter-house 
contains  a  representation  of  the  church  militant  and  triumphant, 
and  is  curious  enough ;  and  also  the  triumph  of  the  schoolman, 
Thomas  Aquinas.  The  monks  of  this  convent,  like  the  shaking 
quakers,  have  an  eye  to  profit,  and  they  have  long  been  famous 
for  the  preparation  of  medicines  and  essences ;  and  a  most  beau- 
tiful establishment  they  have,  called  the  Spezieria,  which  is  fitted 
up  in  more  style  and  elegance  than  any  druggist's  store  in  Lon- 
don or  Paris.  We  were  interested  in  the  place  and  the  attend- 
ants, who  are  very  polite  ;  they  seem  to  drive  a  thriving  business. 
We  brought  away  quite  a  quantity  of  their  precious  perfumes. 

I  felt  unwilling  to  leave  Florence  without  visiting  the  house 
in  which  Michael  Angelo  lived,  and  which,  I  understood,  was  full 
of  his  relics.  We  made  the  necessary  arrangements  for  admis- 
sion, and  repaired  to  the  Via  Ghibellina  in  which  it  stands.  It 
is  yet  in  possession  of  a  descendant  of  this  great  man.  The 
entire  interior  is  preserved  as  in  the  time  of  the  artist,  and  no 
one  can  doubt  it  on  a  survey.  Much  of  the  furniture  remains 
as  in  his  day.  The  apartments  open  from  one  to  the  other,  and 
you  meet  with  a  step,  down  or  up,  in  going  from  room  to  room. 
Here  is  a  small  saloon  or  gallery,  the  ten  large  panels  of  which 
illustrate  the  artist's  history.  They  were  done  by  the  best 
painters  of  the  age,  and  some  of  them  as  a  work  of  love.  One, 
Michael  Angelo  showing  his  plan  of  the  Library  to  Leo  X.,  is 
very  striking.  Another,  in  reference  to  Solyman  proposing  a 
bridge  at  the  Dardanelles,  is  impressive.  In  one  room  is  his 
statue,  by  Novelli,  and  near  it  a  Holy  Family,  in  oil.  It  will 
be  remembered  that  he  only  painted  three  easel-pictures.  His 
actual  studio  we  entered  with  reverence,  and  all  around  were  the 
works  of  his  hands,  —  sketches,  bas-reliefs,  &c.  Here  are  his 
brushes,  color-jars,  and  other  articles  of  professional  use.     In 


CHURCH    OP   THE   ANNUNCIATION  —  CiSCINE.        235 

one  room  we  saw  his  walking-stick,  his  cup,  his  slippers,  and 
some  finely-preserved  letters,  —  his  rosary,  his  writing-desk,  &c. 
We  were  shown  a  crucifix  given  him  by  the  Pope,  containing  a 
vast  number  of  relics,  set  in  small  circles  covered  with  glass.  I 
remember  here  was  a  bit  of  the  stone  which  was  thrown  at 
Stephen,  a  bit  of  the  true  cross,  a  stone  from  the  grave  of  Laza- 
rus, a  morsel  of  the  pillar  of  flagellation,  and  some  twenty  other 
equally  precious  pieces  of  papistical  gammon.  I  was  much 
pleased  to  see  here  the  first  marble  sculptured  by  the  artist,  —  a 
group  in  quarrel.  To  walk  through  the  house  of  a  man  who 
was  the  favorite  of  seven  Popes,  who  painted  the  Last  Judg- 
ment, executed  the  Moses,  and  erected  the  dome  of  St.  Peter's,  is 
an  affair  that  furnishes  food  for  thought,  and  demands  the  exer- 
cise of  one's  best  affections. 

A  hasty  visit  to  the  Church  of  the  Annunciation  showed  me 
that  it  contained  many  beauties.  The  arches  spring  from  col- 
umns. Here  are  many  very  good  paintings ;  one  by  Andrea  del 
vSarto,  the  Wise  Men  and  the  Star  in  the  East,  is  full  of  beauty. 
The  small  chapels  are  exceedingly  costly,  and  abound  in  silver. 
A  festival  service  was  going  on,  and  I  did  not  like  to  injure  the 
feelings  of  those  who  were  devoutly  engaged  by  any  mere  curi- 
osity on  our  part. 

The  Cascine,  at  Florence,  was  too  renowned  for  the  beauty  of 
its  drives  and  scenery  not  to  have  our  attention ;  and  we  fre- 
quently rode  to  the  Eoyal  Farms,  which  the  name  signifies.  All 
that  art  and  wealth  can  effect  by  combination  has  been  here 
effected ;  and  the  good  Florentines  have  a  place  of  enjoyment 
close  at  hand,  on  the  banks  of  the  Arno,  which  I  think  is  unsur- 
passed in  Europe,  unless  the  Summer  Islands  of  St.  Petersburg 
furnish  the  exception.  The  drives  are  crowded  by  the  rank  and 
fashion  of  the  city,  and  the  roads  are  about  one  mile  and  a 
half  long,  and  are  double ;  and  between  them  are  plantations, 
grass-plots,  preserves  of  game.  In  front  of  one  of  the  duke's 
buildings,  —  I  think  the  dairy,  —  is  the  circus,  where  you  find 


236  THE    CASCINE. 

scores  of  carriages  drawn  up  for  rest,  and  whera  the  afternxjn 
high  exchange  of  fashion  is  held.  I  have  seldom  seen  more 
beautiful  equipages  than  we  passed  on  the  Cascine.  The  views 
of  the  villas  lying  off  on  the  base  of  the  mountains  are  enchant- 
ing. How  any  one  can  depreciate  this  ride  and  its  scenery,  I  am 
at  a  loss  to  understand.  Certainly,  till  we  have  any  city  that 
can  approximate  to  the  convenience  and  cha'rm  of  this  suburban 
region,  we  ought  not  to  undervalue  it,  though  it  is  not  American. 
I  shall  ever  remember  the  Cascine,  its  long  range  of  hills,  its 
sunset  hours,  and  its  charming  cottages,  looking  like  diamonds 
set  in  emeralds.  I  have  been  struck  with  the  fertility  of  all  the 
sides  of  the  hills  around.  The  uprising  terraces  seem  to  embody 
a  vast  mass  of  vines.  The  leaves  of  the  olive-trees,  with  their 
delicate  light-green,  serve  to  variegate  the  scenery,  and  the  tree 
itself  is  quite  ornamental.  The  summits  of  the  mountains  are 
nearly  all  crowned  with  chestnut  woods,  and  everywhere  are  -vil- 
lages perched  upon  what  appears  at  a  distance  an  inaccessible 
spot.  The  chestnut  is  a  source  of  great  income  to  the  inhab- 
itants of  these  mountain  ranges ;  the  fruit,  made  into  meal, 
forms  the  principal  food  of  the  peasantry,  —  and  they  seem  to 
thrive  on  it ;  for  a  nobler-looking  race  cannot  easily  be  found. 
Sismondi  speaks  of  the  beauty  of  the  women,  and  the  clearness 
of  their  complexion,  which  probably  arises  from  the  simplicity 
of  their  fare. 

Our  last  ride  in  Florence  was  to  the  very  top  of  the  hill  which 
formed  the  back-ground  of  our  prospect  in  the  rear  of  our  hotel. 
We  passed  through  the  gates  of  the  city,  and  drove  some  three 
miles  up  a  road  which,  at  every  winding,  gave  us  glorious 
glimpses  of  the  beautiful  city.  At  the  summit  we  came  to  a 
convent,  and  from  this  point  enjoyed  the  last  rays  of  daylight  on 
the  Apennines.  These  hills  reflect  the  sun's  rays  most  bril- 
liantly, and  give  a  coloring  to  evening  light  which  I  have  seen 
m  no  other  place.  From  these  eminences  we  had  all  Florence 
at  our  feet.     It  was  one  wide  scene  of  grove,  garden,  pinnacle 


BRIDGES  —  PUKTllAIT    OP   CllOMWELL.  237 

and  tower ;  and  the  river  winding  along  through  the  Val  d'Arno, 
the  fertile  granary  of  corn,  oil  and  wine.  Go  into  the  city,  and 
there  are  all  the  treasures  of  art,  both  ancient  and  modern,  — 

"  The  past 
Contending  with  the  present." 

The  bridges  are  all  picturesque,  but  that  of  the  Trinity,  com- 
pleted in  1569,  is  exquisitely  beautiful.  It  has  three  arches,  of 
which  the  central  span  is  ninety-five  feet  three  inches,  and  that 
of  the  side  ones  eighty-five  feet  six  inches.  The  rise  of  the 
arch  is  one-seventh  of  the  span,  and  the  arches  are  slightly 
pointed.  On  this  bridge  are  the  statues  of  the  Seasons.  The 
length  of  the  bridge  is  three  hundred  and  twenty-three  feet. 

In  many  little  affairs  of  business  I  found  great  service  from 
the  politeness  of  Mr.  Goodban,  the  English  bookseller,  who  has  a 
capital  collection  of  the  best  engravings.  We  enjoyed  much 
pleasure  in  meeting  with  Mr.  and  Mrs.  White,  of  New  York. 
Mr.  White  is'  pursuing  his  profession  as  a  painter  with  enthusi- 
asm, and  has  many  fine  works  in  his  studio.  In  Florence  we 
were  happy  to  meet  with  Mr.  Taylor  Root,  of  New  Haven,  to 
whose  kindness  we  were  indebted  for  many  attentions. 

My  last  hasty  visit  was  to  the  Pitti  palace,  to  get  another 
sight  of  its  pictures,  and  especially  to  see  the  famous  portrait  of 
Oliver  Cromwell,  by  Sir  Peter  Lely.  The  noble  old  Protector 
has  his  likeness  in  the  Tuscan  palace ;  tho.  he  is  not  yet  to  be 
seen  in  the  royal  galleries  of  the  land  he  governed.  But  Eng- 
land will  hereafter  give  him  room,  and  perhaps  place  him,  as 
Walter  Savage  Landor  recently  suggests,  "  on  a  charger  "  now 
occupied  by  "  a  royal  swindler." 

I  am  pleased  with  this  city ;  it  is  as  orderly  as  any  American 
town,  and  the  people  are  well-dressed  and  happy.  I  have  seen 
no  case  of  intoxication  ;  and,  wherever  I  have  been  in  a  wine 
country,  I  have  seen  the  people  a  sober  one.     There  is  nothing 


288  FKOM    FLORENCE    TO    PISA — PISA. 

wanting  to  make  this  country  a  happy  one,  and  its  people  a  pros- 
perous" and  contented  population,  but  the  existence  of  civil  and 
religious  liberty ;  and  this  blessedness  will  yet  be  the  lot  of  its 
inhabitants.  The  tradesmen  of  Florence  are  very  civil,  and 
I  saw  far  fewer  beggars  than  in  Malaga.  The  clergy  of  all 
sorts,  dressed  in  black,  brown,  gray  and  white,  are  numerous 
in  the  streets;  and  they  are  decidedly  a  better-looking  class  of 
men  than  the  Irish  and  French  priesthood. 

We  took  the  cars  for  Pisa,  leaving  our  guide  Sebastian,  whom 
Mr.  Vanderbilt  engaged  at  Leghorn,  to  take  charge  of  the  lug- 
gage, and  come  on  in  a  subsequent  train,  which  we  were  to  join 
at  Pisa,  and  all  go  back  to  Leghorn  in  company. 

The  railroad  passes  through  a  level  country,  but  in  full  sight 
of  a  lofty  range  of  hills.  This  plain  is  ten  or  twelve  miles  wide, 
and  covers  the  interval  between  the  sea  and  the  Monte  Nero 
range,  on  which  the  wealthy  men  of  Leghorn  reside  in  summer. 
Every  part  of  the  road  indicates  good  farming  and  a  contented 
population.  On  every  hand  are  ruined  towers,  which  tell  of 
other  days,  and  remind  us  of  the  civil  discords  whi-ch  have  marked 
Italian  history. 

Pisa  is  a  fine  large-looking  city,  with  wide  streets,  and  the 
houses  many  of  them  noble  in  appearance ;  but  there  are  very 
few  persons  to  be  seen ;  and,  instead  of  a  population  of  nearly 
one  hundred  and  twenty  thousand,  as  it  is  said  once  to  have  had, 
there  are  hardly  twenty  thousand  residents  at  the  present  time. 
The  Arno  runs  through  the  city,  and  it  is  crossed  by  three  fine 
bridges ;  the  central  one  is  of  marble.  This  is  the  seat  of  a 
university  with  a  large  faculty,  and  some  of  the  chairs  are  filled 
by  men  of  eminence.  The  former  splendor  of  the  city  is  still 
visible  in  its  desolate  mansions.  The  great  attraction  to  travel- 
lers is  a  few  famous  buildings,  which  all  lie  close  together,  —  the 
cathedral,  the  Campanile,  or,  as  it  is  designated  more  commonly, 
the  Leaning  Tower,  the  Baptistery,  and  the  Campo  Santo.  In 
the  winter  there  are  many  English  who  reside  here  on  account 


LEANING    TOWER.  239 

of  the  mildness  of  the  climate,  which  is  deemed  much  more 
genial  than  that  of  Florence. 

We  first  repaired  to  the  Leaning  Tower,  which  contains  the 
seven  bells  of  the  Duomo.  It  is  about  thirteen  feet  out  of  the 
perpendicular,  and,  beyond  a  reasonable  doubt,  I  think,  this  is 
owing  to  the  nature  of  the  soil  in  which  the  foundation  was 
placed.  The  tower  is  round,  and  built  of  white  marble ;  and  its 
bright  appearance  is  remarkable  when  its  age  is  remembered,  as 
it  is  nearly  seven  hundred  years  old.  It  is  one  hundred  and 
seventy-eight  feet  high,  and  the  ascent  is  by  easy  steps.  It  has 
eight  stories,  each  resting  on  arches.  The  prospect  from  the  top 
is  quite  enough  to  repay  the  labor  of  the  ascent,  and  the  view 
extends  to  the  Mediterranean,  and  commands  a  vast  mountain 
range.  The  Duomo  was  commenced  1063.  Its  architect  was 
Buschetto,  a  Greek ;  and  Rainaldo,  who  succeeded  him,  executed 
the  stately  fa5ade,  with  its  five  stories ;  the  sides  of  the  church 
have  but  three.  This  building  is  covered  with  marbles  of  various 
colors ;  the  roof  flat,  and  the  interior  richly  gilt.  It  is  supported 
by  seventy-two  columns,  most  of  which  are  of  granite.  The 
cupola  is  frescoed  by  Riminaldi ;  the  subject  is  the  Creation.  The 
church  is  lighted  by  one  hundred  painted  windows,  and  here  are 
several  gems  of  beauty  in  bronze  statuary,  by  John  of  Bologna. 
The  paintings  are  very  good,  and  among  them  some  capital 
works  of  Andrea  del  Sarto,  whose  pictures  do  not  strike  me  as 
being  so  "  feeble  "  as  they  have  been  styled.  St.  Margaret,  St. 
Catherine  and  St.  Agnes,  are  pretty  enough  for  belles,  to  say 
nothing  about  saints.  A  Sacrifice  pf  Isaac  is  a  picture  of  great 
power,  and  has  much  true  conception  of  the  father's  heart.  God 
Speaking  from  the  Burning  Bush  is  a  picture  not  often  equalled. 
The  church  is  in  the  form  of  a  Latin  cross.  It  sufl'ered  from  fire 
in  1596.  The  Iseautiful  bronze  doors  were  modelled  in  1602, 
but  are  inferior  to  those  at  Florence,  by  Ghiberti.  One  door  in 
the  transept  escaped  the  fire,  and  contains  a  number  of  rude 
reliefs  from  the  history  of  Christ. 
20 


240  CAilPO    SAXTO, 

A  silver  altar  in  the  Chapel  of  the  Annunciation  is  of  great 
beauty,  and  is  said  to  have  cost  thirty-six  thousand  crowns.  In 
the  nave  is  a  bronze  lamp  of  fine  workmanship,  which  suggested 
to  Galileo  the  idea  of  the  pendulum.  A  nobler  church  is  seldom 
entered,  and  it  is  kept  in  admirable  order.  The  pavement  is 
very  rich,  and  composed  of  marble  laid  down  with  great  beauty. 
This  church  is  called  Gothic ;  but  is  destitute  of  the  leading 
characteristics  of  Gothic  architecture,  as  clustered  pillars  and 
pointed  arches,  &c. 

I  hardly  know  what  to  say  of  the  Campo  Santo,  which  is  an 
ancient  cemetery,  around  which  are  spacious  cloisters,  but  is  as 
much  a  museum  as  a  Golgotha.  It  is  more  than  four  hundred 
feet  long,  and  nearly  one  hundred  and  fifty  feet  wide.  The 
cloisters  are  forty-six  feet  high,  and  thirty-four  and  a  half  wide. 
The  interior  is  filled  up  with  earth,  brought  by  a  crusading 
bishop  from  Mount  Calvary,  in  fifty-three  vessels.  This  struc- 
ture was  commenced  in  1278  over  this  sacred  deposit.  Sar- 
cophagi have  been  gathered  here  from  various  quarters,  and 
many  stones  commemorate  the  death  of  early  Roman  Christians. 
The  principal  attraction,  however,  is  the  extraordinary  frescos 
which  adorn  the  cloister  walls,  and  afford  the  earliest  specimens 
of  the  art.  The  great  work  of  Orgagna,  "  The  Triumph  of 
Death,"  and  the  Life  of  Job,  by  Giotto,  and  the  Drunkenness  of 
Noah,  by  Gozzoli,  are  the  principal  subjects  of  interest,  although 
there  are  a  variety  of  other  illustrations  of  sacred  subjects.  The 
costumes  of  these  paintings  are  those  of  the  age  in  which  they 
were  executed,  and  many  an  actual  portrait  is  here  on  the  walls. 
In  a  small  chapel  into  which  we  entered,  our  guide  called  our 
attention  to  a  remarkable  echo,  to  produce  which  he  chanted 
grandly.     His  fine  voice  was  very  rich  and  musical. 

We  now  went  into  the  Baptistery,  which  was  built  in  1152. 
The  pulpit  is  wonderfully  beautiful ;  it  was  made  by  Nicolo 
Pisano.  It  stands  on  nine  pillars,  and  has  two  marble  desks  for 
the  gospel  and  epistle.     The  bas-reliefs  of  this  exquisite  piece 


CAMELS — GUIDE    DETAINED.  241 

of  statuary  are  as  perfect  as  whea  they  were  completed.  The 
cupola  is  lofty,  —  one  hundred  and  two  feet  from  the  pavement. 
The  fount  is  fourteen  feet  in  diameter,  and  Murray  says  "  was 
formerly  used  for  baptism  by  immersion."  Popery  is  fond  of 
antiquity,  but  has  gotten  rid  of  some  old  things,  and  tried  her 
hand  upon  many  inventions.  The  Baptistery  of  Pisa  is  a  noble 
edifice,  and  full  of  curious  and  beautiful  things. 

We  next  rode  over  the  river  to  see  a  little  church  called 
Santa  Maria  della  Spina.  It  is  a  miniature  Gothic  structure 
in  marble.  Giovanni  and  Andrea  Pisano  were  the  artists  to 
whom  are  ascribed  several  of  the  small  statues  which  adorn 
this  church.  The  church  takes  its  name  from  a  thorn  of  the 
Saviour's  crown,  brought  from  the  Holy  Land  by  a  Pisan  mer- 
chant, and  given  to  this  chapel  in  1333. 

At  the  Dairy  farm  (belonging  to  the  Grand  Duke,  who  resides 
at  Pisa  in  winter),  about  three  miles  out  of  the  town,  there  are 
more  than  two  hundred  camels.  They  are  the  descendants  of 
those  brought  home  by  the  Crusaders.  We  wanted  to  go  to  see 
them,  but  had  not  sufficient  time ;  but,  just  as  we  were  regretting 
it,  I  saw  three  of  them  bringing  in  immense  loads  of  hay  from 
the  farm.  They  were  fine-looking  animals,  and  in  better  con- 
dition than  those  we  see  in  menageries- 
Having  taken  dinner,  we  hastened  to  the  cars,  where  we  were 
to  meet  Mr.  Vanderbilt  and  our  friends  Messrs.  Powers  and 
Hart,  who  were  to  visit  the  yacht,  and  see  us  sail  from  Leghorn. 
Our  guide  got  off  the  train  to  speak  to  Mr.  Vanderbilt,  and  waa 
in  the  act  of  jumping  on  as  the  train  was  in  motion.  This  wa3 
contrary  to  law,  and  he  was  snatched  from  the  platform,  and  we 
went  on  without  him  ;  but  he  telegraphed  us,  so  that  we  heard 
of  him  on  reaching  the  station  at  Leghorn,  and  he  made  his 
appearance  soon  after,  having  taken  a  gig  and  driven  rapidly  to 
the  city. 

Our  ladies  immediately  went  about  shopping  in  Leghorn,  and 
I  looked  round  upon  the  city.     The  Via  la  Grande  is  a  fine  busy 


242  LEGHORN  —  ALARM    OF   AUTHORITIES. 

street,  and  on  its  pavements  I  felt  that  I  was  again  in  a  place 
of  trade  and  commerce ;  for  here  were  Turks,  Moors,  Armenians 
and  Chinese,  and  the  Dutch  sailors  were  smoking  as  if  as  much 
at  home  as  in  Amsterdam.  The  population  is  rather  more  than 
sixty  thousand,  of  which  one-sixth  are  Jews. 

La  Grande  Piazza  is  a  noble  square,  and  here  is  the  great 
church,  into  which  I  did  not  enter.  The  Jews'  synagogue  is 
supposed  to  be  one  of  the  finest  in  Europe. 

A  Turkish  bazaar  which  we  went  to  was  filled  with  Eastern 
articles  of  great  beauty,  and  with  plenty  of  French  trifles ;  but, 
as  we  were  bound  to  Constantinople,  we  refused  to  be  tempted. 

On  our  arrival  at  Leghorn,  we  were  surprised  and  amused  to 
learn  that  the  fact  of  the  yacht's  anchorage  in  the  roadstead  had 
excited  an  alarm.  Orders  had  been  received  to  place  guard- 
boats  off  the  North  Star,  and  we  were  suspected  of  having  arms 
on  board,  and  it  was  thought  that  we  had  come  to  take  or  bring 
some  "Liberals."  It  was  not  quite  certain  that  Kossuth  himself 
was  not  on  board.  Great  excitement  existed,  and  orders  had 
been  received,  from  further  off  than  Florence,  to  keep  a  vigilant 
eye  on  our  movements.  Our  consul  protested  against  these 
jealous  fears  of  a  gentleman's  yacht,  but  in  vain,  Austrian 
imagination  could  not  conceive  of  such  a  ship  being  the  ocean 
home  of  a  private  American  merchant.  The  yacht  was  thrown 
open  to  visitors,  as  in  other  ports ;  and  many  hundreds  came  from 
Pisa,  Florence  and  Lucca,  as  well  as  the  good  people  of  Leg- 
horn. 

Our  friends.  Powers,  Hart  and  Root,  all  seemed  glad  to  walk 
our  decks,  and  felt  proud  that  the  flag  of  their  country  waved 
over  them  on  such  a  vessel.  Our  guide,  Sebastian,  who  lived 
here,  determined  to  go  with  us  to  Rome,  and  so  he  left  his  family 
for  another  week. 

"We  were  most  kindly  waited  on  by  Mr.  Henderson  and  his 
nephew,  Mr.  Miller,  to  the  last  moment,  and  letters  to  Rome 
and  Naples  politely  presented  us  for  our  service. 


VISITORS.  243 

We  had  difficulty  in  getting  rid  of  om*  visitors;  and,  when 
the  steam  was  up,  and  the  wheels  revolving,  a  gentleman  on 
deck  would  run  into  "  that  great  cabin  "  with  his  wife  and 
daughters,  "  for  one  little  minute."  We  hurried  him  up,  and 
when  he  took  his  boat,  and  we  steamed  off,  there  were  at  least 
one  hundred  boats  around  us,  all  filled  with  visitors. 

We  left  the  port  amid  the  hearty  cheers  of  the  vast  fleet  of 
boats,  many  of  which  were  gayly  decorated  with  colors. 
20=* 


CHAPTER    XVIII. 

LEAVE   LEQHOEN    FOB,    CIVITA   VECCHIA HABBOK DIFFICULTIES    ON    OUR 

WAT DISAPrOINTMENT  VOYAGE     RESUMED  SEE   ST.    PETER'S    AFAR 

OFF ISCHIA PROCEDA  BAIA,  ETC.  BRIDGE  OF  CALIGULA NA- 
PLES   THE  BAY RENEWED  DISAPPOINTMENT SWIMMERS LADY  MOR- 
GAN   VESUVIUS,  ETC. CAPRI  AND   SUNSET STROMBOLI  AND  iETNA 

CAPE    FARO,    OK   PELORUS SCTLLA EARTHQUAKE    OF    1783  —  MESSINA 

SCENERY    OF    THE     STRAITS RHEGIUM  MOUNT    JETNA SYRACUSE 

CAPE    PASSARO MALTA. 

From  Leghorn,  August  12,  seven  p.  m.,  our  course  was 
directed  for  Palamjolu  light,  on  the  east  coast  of  Elba,  lying 
between  that  island  and  Piambino,  thence  south  and  east  for  the 
inside  of  the  islands  of  Giglio  and  Gianuto;  then  running  still 
south-easterly  for  Civita  Vecchia,  where  we  anchored  at  seven 
A.  M.  the  next  day. 

The  town  is  small  and  clean-looking,  has  strong  forts  built 
out  on  a  little  rocky  islet,  and  an  old  monastery  off  at  the  left 
serves  as  a  Lazaretto.  The  small  harbor  is  well  protected  from 
the  sea  by  a  mole  which  has  two  entrances,  —  one  at  each  end. 
Inside  the  town  is  a  basin  to  receive  vessels,  which  was  built  by 
Trajan.  This  is  guarded  by  a  strong  chain  every  evening.  We 
took  a  health-officer  on  board,  and  our  captain  and  one  of  the 
party  landed  with  the  ship-papers.  They  soon  returned,  and 
stated  that,  owing  to  a  defect  in  them,  we  could  not  be  allowed 
to  land  until  we  had  performed  quarantine,  or  till  the  governor 
had  communicated  with  Rome.  The  difficulty  was  that  some 
names  had  been  omitted  on  the  bill  of  health  at  Leghorn,  so 
that  more  persons  appeared  to  be  on  board  than  the  papers  had 
specified.     Mr.  Vanderbilt  was  unwilling  to  suffi^r  a  detention, 


DISAPPOINTMENT — SEE   ST.    PETER'S,  245 

and  it  was  supposed  that,  as  we  had  a  Charge  d'Ajffaires  at 
Naples,  our  best  course  was  to  go  direct  thither,  and  trust  to  his 
influence  to  get  us  admitted  to  praticpe,  and  then  go  from 
Naples  to  Rome.  This  prospect  kept  up  our  spirits  under  the 
cruel  disappointment  of  being  so  near  to  the  Eternal  City,  and  yet 
debarred  the  privilege  of  visiting  the  old  Mistress  of  the  World. 
I  really  did  pity  the  poor  ladies'  maids,  who  were  Catholics,  and 
our  purser,  Mr.  Keefe,  who  also  was  a  son  of  the  church,  and 
had  letters  from  his  clergy  in  New  York,  commending  him  to 
sundry  of  the  faithful  at  Rome.  One  of  the  girls  burst  into  a 
passionate  flood  of  tears,  and  declared  that  all  which  had  induced 
her  to  come  on  board  was  to  go  to  Rome ;  and  now  the  vexation 
was  too  hard  for  flesh  and  blood  to  bear  up  under  with  any 
patience.  After  laying  close  into  the  town  for  two  or  three 
hours,  we  weighed  anchor,  and,  standing  out  about  three  miles, 
took  a  line  from  Cape  Linaro  to  Mount  Circello.  About  three 
o'clock  p.  M.,  we  were  off  the  mouths  of  the  Ostia,  and,  the  day 
being  beautifully  clear,  we  had  a  capital  view  of  St.  Peter's 
dome  and  the  small  cupolas.  All  our  party  came  on  deck,  and 
every  glass  was  in  demand.  The  distance  from  Rome  was,  I 
imagine,  about  twenty-five  miles.  So  we  saw  Rome.  I  have 
learned  to  bear  with  disappointments,  and  have  often  seen  the 
happy  results  which  frequently  appear  from  having  our  anxiously- 
desired  paths  hedged  up.  We  had  a  fine  night  upon  the  sea,  and 
a  delicious  air. 

From  Mount  Circello  we  ran  across  the  Gulf  of  Gaieta,  and 
made  for  Ischia.  This  island,  with  the  small  one  of  Procida, 
forms  the  north-western  shore  of  the  Bay  of  Naples.  Passing 
Point  Antonio,  our  course  lay  direct  in  for  Naples.  The  night 
was  very  splendid,  and  I  spent  most  of  its  hours  on  deck,  to 
watch  a  coast  of  so  much  interest  and  scenery  so  romantic  as 
now  surrounded  us. 

Ischia  is  a  spot  full  of  wonders,  and  was  once  as  famous  for 
its  volcanic  eruptions  as  Vesuvius  is  at  present.     The  last  great 


246  isciiiA. 

outbreak  was  in  1302,  when  the  island  was  almost  desolated. 
Here  are  lofty  hills,  rugged  rocks,  and  barren  mountains ;  but 
there  are  many  spots  of  beauty  and  fertility,  where  the  vine  and 
myrtle  flourish,  and  all  the  tropical  fruits  abound.  In  the  centre 
of  Ischia  rises  Monte  San  Niccolo,  a  volcano  which  once  ravaged 
the  island ;  and  from  the  summit  of  it  the  view  must  be  most 
lovely.  A  few  hermits  dwell  on  this  elevated  rock,  and  their 
cells  are  cut  out  of  the  stone  and  lava. 

The  town  of  Ischia  lies  about  two  miles  off  from  Proceda,  and 
a  strong  castellated  fortress,  on  a  precipitous  rock,  is  united  to 
the  island  by  a  stone  bridge  of  great  length.  The  ancient  name 
of  Ischia  was  "  Inarime,"  and  its  circumference  is  about  sixteen 
miles.  Proceda  is  about  two  and  a  half  miles  long ;  the  town 
occupies  the  shore,  and  there  appeared  to  be  a  large  number  of 
fine  buildings.  Sailing  on  about  two  and  a  half  miles  from  the 
eastern  point  of  Proceda,  we  came  to  Point  Misenum,  the  north- 
ern boundary  of  the  bay.  Here,  on  a  high  point,  are  two  watch- 
towers  and  a  large  house.  The  scenery  was  very  picturesque, 
and  off  to  the  northward  there  were  several  large  steamers 
at  anchor.  We  now  passed  Baia,  and  saw  the  ruins  of  ancient 
temples,  and  several  apertures  from  the  sea  leading  through 
the  solid  rocks.  Near  to  the  shore  are  the  baths  of  the  Cumasan 
Sibyl.  All  along  the  shore  from  Baia  to  Pozzuoli,  which  lies  in 
a  bay,  the  navigation  near  the  shore  is  rendered  dangerous  from 
the  ruins  of  houses  and  towers  which  are  submerged,  and  which 
extend  so  far  from  the  coast  as  to  reach  where  seven  and  eight 
fathoms  water  are  close  to  them.  Near  to  the  town  are  the  pil- 
lared ruins  of  the  mole  and  the  splendid  bridge  of  Caligula, 
which  once  reached  over  to  Baia,  two  and  a  half  miles  in  length. 
East,  lies  the  small  island  of  Nisita,  which  is  the  quarantine 
station.  To  the  north  of  this  is  a  mole,  and  midway  from  the 
island  to  the  land  is  a  steep  rock  From  a  point  of  land  on 
which  is  a  large  white  building,  mil  h  like  an  American  hotel, 


NAPLES.  247 

you  get  the  first  view  of  Naples.  Off  this  spot  are  vast  ruins 
which  lie  in  the  sea,  and  the  towers  of  other  ages  now  require 
that  the  navigator  should  give  them  a  wide  berth.  Having  turned 
this  point,  we  came  to  the  Castle  del  Ovo,  upon  a  rpck.  JMergil- 
lena  Point  is  lined  with  charming  residences,  and  the  shore  on  to 
Naples  is  one  unbroken  line  of  villas,  palaces  and  imposing  struc- 
tures. And  now  before  us  was  the  Castle  of  St.  Elmo,  and,  hard 
by,  the  Convent  of  St,  Martino ;  there  was  the  royal  palace 
and  the  arsenal,  all  lying  on  the  noble  slope  of  the  hill  on  which 
the  city  stands.  As  for  church  domes,  I  can't  pretend  to  num- 
ber them,  —  they  were  everywhere.  A  mole  is  built  out  before 
the  town,  on  which  is  erected  a  high  brick  tower,  which  serves 
as  a  light-house. 

This  city  stands  where  Paloepolis  and  Neapolis  formerly  stood. 
Neapolis  was  desolated  by  the  great  eruption  of  Vesuvius  in  79, 
when  the  elder  Pliny  was  destroyed.  This  glorious  bay  is,  I  should 
think,  nearly  twenty-five  miles  across  from  Ischia  or  Misenum  to 
the  opposite  shore — perhaps  more.  As  we  anchored  in  the  har- 
bor on  a  lovely  Sabbath  morning,  everything  seemed  beautiful. 
Before  us  lay  the  city,  like  a  crescent ;  and  off  to  the  right  the 
Villa  Reale,  well  thronged  with  the  Neapolitans ;  and,  turning 
round,  we  saw  Vesuvius  and  the  road  leading  off  to  Pompeii,  and 
off  to  the  left  lay  the  grotto  of  Posilipo  and  the  tomb  of  Virgil, 
while  stretching  far  northward  are  hills  of  quiet  beauty,  with  the 
lofty  Apennines  forming  a  back-ground. 

The  health-officer  who  boarded  us  took  our  papers,  and  then 
went  on  shore  to  report;  and  when  he  returned  brought  us  word 
that  we  could  not  land,  owing  to  the  condition  of  our  bill  of 
health.  We  found  that  our  Charge  d'Affaires  had  left  for  Amer- 
ica ;  and,  unwilling  to  stay  for  a  long  quarantine,  we  were  once 
more  doomed  to  be  satisfied  with  the  sight  of  our  eyes.  From 
the  entire  tone  and  bearing  of  the  official,  it  was  clear  that  the 
authorities  did  not  much  care  to  have  Americans  land  there;  and 
we  did  not  seem  to  have  favor  in  their  sight.     While  at  anchor, 


248 ,  NAPLES. 

boats  came  off  in  great  numbers,  with  fruit  and  vegetables,  and 
a  vast  number  of  men  came  swimming  around  us.  One  very 
good-looking  man,  with  gold  spectacles  on,  and  carrying  a  silk 
umbrella  and  smoking  a  cigar,  swam  from  the  shore  to  our  yacht, 

full  one-third  of  a  mile.     He  trod  the  water  as  though  on  a 

pavement,  and  was  breast-high  out  of  the  waves.  Mr.  Vander- 
bilt  now  determined  to  try  his  hand  with  the  English,  and  ordered 
our  course  to  be  directed  for  Malta. 

We  have  seen  Naples,  —  ay,  and  seen  it  in  great  beauty,  — 
and  we  have  gazed  for  four  or  five  hours  upon  the  unrivalled 
shores  of  her  glorious  bay.  To  say  that  we  longed  to  tread  tha 
classic  haunts  with  which  our  early  studies  had  made  us  familiar 
is  but  what  we  shall  gain  credit  for.  0,  it  was  hard  to  see  and 
turn  away  ;  but  then  how  much  had  we  enjoyed  since  the  dawn 
of  this  lovely  day ! 

Well  did  Lady  Morgan  remark,  in  her  work  on  Italy,  which  I 
confess  I  always  read  with  interest :  "  In  the  environs  of  Naples 
there  lies  subject-matter  for  the  antiquary,  the  painter,  the  nat- 
uralist and  the  philosopher.  Its  coasts  are  bathed  by  the  sea  of 
Homer  ;  its  lakes  and  hills  afford  the  topography  of  Virgil ;  its 
vineyards  bloom  over  caves  where  the  Cumaean  Sibyl  composed 
her  oracles ;  and  every  cliff  and  headland  is  a  history,  the  register 
of  a  crime,  or  the  landmark  of  an  adventure  which  has  made 
the  immortality  of  him  who  recorded  or  him  who  performed  them. 
The  whole  of  these  shores  look  as  if  they  were  etched  and 
painted,  the  drawing  and  coloring  equally  exquisite.  The  sea- 
pieces  of  Salvator  Rosa  are  recalled  at  every  step."  —  Vol.  iii. 
pp.  155-6. 

The  ladies  had  for  several  days  determined  upon  the  ascent  of 
Vesuvius,  and  had  most  industriously  prepared  a  general  equip- 
ment of  Bloomer  apparel  for  the  occasion.  The  clothing  market 
fell,  upon  the  news  of  the  Neapolitan  embargo,  and  great  bargains 
might  have  been  made  at  this  moment  of  depression. 

We  were  fairly  moving  out  past  the  mole,  and  every  eye  was 


CAPRI  —  AN    ITALIAN    SUNSET.  249 

on  tlio  city,  then  off  to  the  sweet  village  of  Portici,  built  almost 
upon  the  ruins  of  Herculaneum,  and  then  upon  Vesuvius,  mount- 
ing to  the  clouds  and  throwing  off  a  slight  vapor,  and,  beyond, 
the  Apennines.  Then  there  is  Posilipo  point,  with  its  white 
mansions,  and  off  before  us  Capri,  of  olden  fame ;  and  our  course 
lay  between  this  island  and  the  cape  on  the  main.  This  island 
takes  its  name  from  the  goats  that  used  to  browse  upon  its  cliffs ; 
it  became  part  of  the  empire  under  Augustus  Caesar,  who  made 
it  a  place  of  occasional  retirement.  It  has  always  been  regarded 
as  a  most  healthy  spot ;  and  here  Tiberius  spent  the  last  days 
of  his  shameful  career,  amid  the  most  cruel  and  abominable 
debaucheries.  Every  part  of  the  island  was  studded  with  pal- 
aces, groves,  gardens  and  grottos.  On  a  lofty  hill  stands  a 
ruined  fortress ;  and  on  the  eastern  point  of  the  island  is  a  vast 
ruin,  which  indicates  the  splendor  which  once  reigned  here. 
Medals,  statues  and  other  ancient  relics,  are  often  found  here. 
The  panoramic  view  from  Capri,  embracing  the  bay,  its  beautiful 
islands,  the  promontories  north  and  south  with  their  bold  cliffs, 
and  a  bright  blue  sea,  is  altogether  the  most  beautiful  one  that  I 
have  seen.  As  we  came  to  the  southern  point,  we  were  delighted 
to  see  the  Scopuli  spoken  of  by  Virgil.  An  arch,  as  perfect  as 
could  be  made  by  art,  opens  through  these  rugged  rocks,  and  is 
said  to  be  of  enormous  height,  —  I  believe  four  hundred  feet. 

The  sun  was  shedding  his  evening  rays  upon  Vesuvius,  and 
throwing  violet  hues  all  over  the  mountain  sides,  as  we  took  our 
latest  look  at  the  enchanting  scenery.  This  was  perhaps  the 
most  brilliant  sunset  that  we  ever  witnessed.  As  the  sun  neared 
the  horizon,  it  appeared  like  a  ball  of  fire.  The  back-ground  was 
of  shaded  crimson,  deepening  towards  the  sun ;  above  it  there 
was  a  deep-blue  cloud  fringed  with  gold,  and  above  this  streaks 
of  the  most  delicately-formed  clouds,  all  crowned  by  a  canopy  of 
exquisite  shading;  then,  diverging  from  the  sun,  came  pillars 
of  parti-colored  light,  gradually  losing  themselves  in  the  clear 


250  STROMBOLI. 

sky,  at  about  twenty-five  degrees  from  the  horizon.  To-day  we 
observed  divine  service  at  eight  o'clock  p.  bi. 

We  now  made  a  straight  course  for  Stromboli,  and  discovered 
this  light-house  of  the  sea.  At  about  two  in  the  morning  Cap- 
tain Eldridge  kindly  came  below,  and  called  us  up  to  see  the 
ever-burning  faro  of  the  seas.  There  it  was,  long  miles  off, 
flaming  away  just  as  brightly  as  it  did  when  Carthaginian  navies 
and  Roman  consuls  ploughed  the  waves  in  their  war-galleys. 
Here  am  I,  looking  upon  an  object  which  has  fastened  the  gaze 
of  millions  ;  and  they  wondered  as  I  do,  and  then  they  perished 
in  successive  periods ;  and  here  we  are  from  the  New  World,  gaz- 
ing on  the  same  wondrous  exhibition  of  terrific  power,  and  are 
reminded  that  "  one  generation  passeth  away  and  another  cometh, 
but  the  earth  remaineth."  How  unchanged  are  its  grand  feat- 
ures, while  the  long  generations  of  men  who  have  lived  have 
returned  to  the  dust  from  whence  they  sprang !  Nature  is  as 
young  and  lovely  as  at  her  birth ;  the  stars  shed  as  bright  a  radi- 
ance as  when  Job  wrote  about  the  Pleiades  and  Arcturus ;  the 
meadows  are  as  green  as  when  Isaac  walked  out  to  meditate  at 
the  evening-tide,  and  the  waves  are  as  restless  and  rolling  as 
when  the  Saviour  calmed  them  down  by  the  power  of  their  Cre- 
ator ;  but  the  nations  that  lived  on  these  shores,  the  navies  that 
sailed  these  seas  —  where  are  they  ?  They  have  grown  old,  — 
and  they  are  not. 

Stromboli  lies  about  thirty-three  miles  north  of  Sicily,  and  is 
nearly  ten  miles  in  circumference.  It  is  a  cone  rising  up  to  the 
height  of  twenty-five  hundred  feet  above  the  sea.  All  round  its 
base  and  sides  are  scattered  hamlets,  with  a  population  of  nearly 
fifteen  hundred,  who  are  on  the  edge  of  destruction,  and  live  and 
act,  ay,  and  sleep,  on  the  surface  of  an  eternal  volcano.  I  do 
not  quite  understand  how  men  can  become  reconciled  to  such 
appalling  danger.  This  is  the  only  volcano  that  is  known  to  main- 
tain constant  eruption.  Its  earliest  mention  is  two  hundred  and 
ninety-two  years  before  Christ,  and  it  was  burning  in  the  days  of 


LIPARI    ISLANDS  —  JETNA.  251 

Augustus  and  Tiberius.  Part  of  the  island  is  very  fertile ;  the 
soil  is  black  mould,  and  abounds  in  corn,  cotton,  grapes,  fif^s  and 
currants.  In  the  island  are  many  curious  caves,  and  the  Grotto 
del  Bovi  Marini  is  eighty-one  feet  long  and  thirty-five  wide,  and 
is  full  of  crystallizations.  This  volcano  is  probably  supported  by 
oxygen,  pyrites  and  sulphur,  —  there  are  no  signs  of  bitumen. 

The  Lipari  Islands  were  known  to  the  ancients  as  the  ^olian 
Islands,  and  the  poets  feigned  that  ^olus  here  shut  up  the  winds. 
These  islands  were  vastly  useful  to  Homer  and  Virgil,  in  fur- 
nishing them  with  poetical  materials.  In  Hiera  Vulcan's  forge 
was  placed.  Twentj'-seven  years  ago  a  damsel  on  the  Hudson 
river  asked  me  if  I  knew  her  brother-in-law.  I  replied  Yes. 
"  Well,"  said  she,  "  don't  you  think  he  is  an  interesting  man  ?  " 
To  this  I  agreed.  She  then  said  that  she  thought  him  very 
interesting,  adding,  "  0,  he  has  seen  so  much  of  the  world !  He 
has  been  all  through  the  Mediterranean  river ;  he 's  seen  the 
burning  mountains,  and  seen  them  make  nuns,  and  seen  them 
after  they  were  made."  I  could  not  help  remembering  her  ideas 
of  the  intey-esting,  whilst  I  was  enjoying  the  same  priv'ileges. 
Poor  girl !  her  romantic  notions  have  long  since  given  place  to 
the  every-day  duties  of  a  good  Dutchman's  wife. 

At  the  earliest  dawn  of  day,  we  saw  the  peaks  of  the  gigantic 
.^tna  far  away,  and  soon  discovered  the  smoky  cloud  which  ever 
covers  his  hoary  head.  Every  eye  was  fastened  upon  the  increas- 
ing view  which  our  rapid  headway  now  afforded.  But  we  were 
to  see  jEtna  to  greater  advantage  as  the  day  advanced.  What 
a  remarkable  thing  it  was  to  see  these  three  great  volcanoes  of 
the  world  —  Vesuvius,  Stromboli  and  ^tna  —  in  the  short  space 
of  less  than  nine  hours.  This  could  only  happen  to  a  voyager  by 
steam. 

We  now  steered  direct  for  the  Faro  Point,  the  famous  prom- 
ontory of  Pelorus,  which  took  its  name  from  the  pilot  of  Hanni- 
bal, who  was  put  to  death  on  suspicion  of  bad  faith  to  the  Car- 
thaginians.    Here  we  obtained  fine  views  of  the  Calabrian  coast,    , 
21 


252  SCYLLA    AND    CIIARYBDIS. 

.which  IS  grand  in  its  rugged  mountainous  aspect.  Just  as  we 
passed  Faro  we  saw  the  famous  Scylla  of  classic  story,  which 
occasioned  so  much  dread  to  the  early  navigators  of  this  channel. 
It  is  a  bold  rock,  and  is  perhaps  one  hundred  and  fifty  feet  high, 
and  is  the  jutting-out  cape  of  the  western  part  of  Calabria. 
Underneath  it  are  caverns  and  pieces  of  rock  around,  and  a 
strong  western  current  from  the  Tyrrhene  Sea  sets  in  with  vio- 
lence, which  formerly  produced  frequent  disasters  to  the  Greek 
sailors  who  drifted  on  the  dangerous  cape.  Much  of  its  horror, 
however,  may  be  ascribed  to  the  poetic  imagination  of  Homer 
and  Ovid. 

Now  the  name  of  the  cape  is  Sciglio,  and  a  castle  strongly  for- 
tified forms  a'  striking  object  upon  the  rock,  as  it  is  approached 
from  the  Pelorus.  This  town  of  Sciglio  was  the  scene  of  an 
awful  visitation  in  February  1783,  when  an  earthquake  nearly 
destroyed  the  place.  The  castle,  churches,  houses,  &c.,  were 
extensively  injured ;  and  the  prince,  with  more  than  two  thousand 
of  his  people,  fled  to  the  beach  for  safety,  when  the  promontory 
of  Campala,  falling  into  the  sea,  caused  the  waters  of  the  straits 
to  rush  over  to  the  Pelorus,  and  as  they  receded  it  was  with 
a  tide  of  violence  that  carried  off  the  unfortunate  prince  and 
every  one  of  his  people.  The  exact  location  of  Charybdis  is  a 
matter  of  doubt.  Some  place  it  at  the  light  opposite  the  harbor 
of  Messina,  others  at  the  Faro  Point.  Captain  Smyth  says, 
"  Outside  the  tongue  of  land  that  forms  the  harbor  of  Messina 
lies  the  Galofaro,  or  celebrated  vortex  of  Charybdis,  which  has 
with  more  reason  than  Scylla  been  clothed  with  terrors  by  the 
writers  of  antiquity."  Our  passage  from  Faro  to  Messina  which 
is  a  distance  of  ten  or  twelve  miles,  was  one  of  great  inter tst,  for 
the  landscape  on  the  coast  of  Sicily  was  adorned  with  every 
beauty.  On  the  shore  were  charming  villages,  noble  convents 
and  venerable  churches,  and  the  back-ground  composed  of  lofty 
hills  finely  cut  into  ravines.     The   straits  here  are  narrow,  and 


MESSINA  —  RHEGIUM.  253 

resemble  a  noble  river ;  and  the  Calabrian  shores  present  a  glori- 
ous line  of  mountains. 

The  approach  to  Messina  is  very  fine.  It  stands  at  the  base 
of  a  picturesque  mountain-range,  belonging  to  the  Neptunian 
chain.  The  city  is  large,  and  the  cathedral  and  the  noble  towers 
of  churches  and  convents  rise  from  among  the  mass  of  buildings. 
Behind  the  city,  and  far  up  the  mountain,  are  two  very  ancient- 
looking  forts ;  and  midway  between  them  is  an  old  monastery,  in 
which  Richard  Coeur  de  Lion  resided  in  1190,  when  on  his  cru- 
sade to  the  Holy  City.  The  buildings,  mostly  white,  are  in 
beautiful  contrast  with  the  rich  green  foliage  behind.  The  pop- 
ulation is  about  eighty  thousand.  We  saw  a  large  number  of 
vessels  lying  at  the  Marina,  which  is  a  fine  wharf  in  front  of  the 
city.  The  scenery  reminded  several  of  our  party  of  the  banks 
of  the  Rhine ;  and  the  passage  of  this  piece  of  water  is,  I 
think,  a  sufficient  reward  for  all  the  trouble  of  a  voyage  from 
America. 

Let  me  speak  of  the  great  pleasure  with  which  I  here  read 
a  little  volume  called  "  Sicily,  a  Pilgrimage,"  by  Henry  T.  Tuck- 
erman,  and  published  by  G.  F,  Putnam  &  Co.  It  is  a  book  of 
beauties;  and  then  its  delineations  are  so  graphic,  and  its 
descriptions  of  nature  so  truthful  I  I  think  it  is  written  in  its 
author's  happiest  moments,  and  it  has  made  many  of  my  hours  at 
sea  pass  away  delightfully.  Our  course  lay  straight  for  Syra- 
cuse, and,  passing  by  Messina,  we  soon  came  to  Rhegium,  a  neat 
little  place  on  the  Calabrian  coast.  This  is  the  town  to  which 
Paul  came  after  his  shipwreck,  when  on  his  way  to  Rome. 
Now  we  have  a  noble  sight  of  ^tna.  It  is  capped  with  snow, 
and  we  can  well  see  the  beauty  of  Pindar's  description,  when  he 
calls  it  "  the  snow-clad  pillar  of  the  heavens,  this  nurse  of  end- 
less frosts."  It  lies  before  us,  and  will  be  in  sight  all  day,  and 
late  into  the  evening.  It  is  divided  into  three  ranges,  known  as 
the  cultivated,  the  forest,  and  the  desert  regions.  The  crater  is 
eaid  to  be  two  miles  in  circumference.     From  Mount  JEtna-  are 


254  SYRACUSE. 

derived  tl?  Dse  supplies  of  snow  and  ice  -wliich  the  towns  of  Italy 
and  Sicily  require.  What  a  map  must  be  laid  out  to  the  view 
of  the  man  who  stands  upon  Mount  ^tna,  and  what  a  survey  of 
cities,  mountains,  coasts,  bays  and  capes !  It  was  a  fine  evening, 
on  the  15th  of  August,  when  we  made  Syracuse,  which  stands 
upon  a  neck  of  land  divided  by  a  very  small  arm  of  the  sea 
from  the  main  island.  The  name  of  the  island  is  Ortygia.  It 
has  two  harbors,  and  one  affords  the  best  anchorage  in  the  world, 
and  is  large  enough  to  accommodate  the  navy  of  any  country  in 
Europe.  This  city  once  had  a  circumference  of  twenty  miles, 
and  a  population  of  five  hundred  thousand ;  now  it  has  only 
about  fifteen  thousand.  Here  are  the  two  columns  of  the  temple 
of  Jupiter  Olympus,  and  they  are  now  good  landmarks  for 
entering  the  harbor.  In  this  port  Lord  Nelson  supplied  his 
fleet  when  he  was  in  his  celebrated  pursuit  of  the  French  fleet,  in 
1798.  It  is  something  to  have  seen  this  remarkable  city, 
which  was  founded  seven  hundred  and  thirty-two  years  before 
Christ,  by  Archias  of  Corinth ;  and  we  cannot  look  at  it  with- 
out remembering  Dionysius,  Thrasybulus,  Agathocles  and 
Archimedes. 

It  was  owing  to  the  Mammertines,  who  lived  in  the  southern  ' 
part  of  Campania,  and  who  served  as  mercenary  troops  under 
Agathocles,  having  rebelled  afterwards  against  the  Syracusans 
and  appealed  to  Rome  for  protection,  that  an  army  of  Romans, 
under  Appius  Claudius,  came  against  the  Carthaginians,  and 
commenced  the  celebrated  Punic  wars,  which  at  last  destroyed 
Carthage,  and  annexed  Sicily  to  the  empire.  This  city  has 
been  battle-ground  for  Greeks,  Romans,  Saracens,  Normans  and 
Spaniards.  It  was  off  Syracuse  that  the  great  battle  was  fought 
between  the  Dutch  and  French  fleets,  in  1G7G,  when  Admiral 
De  Ruyter  was  killed. 

Our  course  was  now  directed  for  Malta,  and  we  made  Cape 
Passaro  at  night,  and  thence  arrived  off  Malta  on  the  morning 
of  the  sixteenth  of  August,  before  day-light.     As  we  lay  off,  a 


ARRIVAL    AT   VALETTA.  255 

copious  shower  of  rain  fell ;  but  we  found  that  it  did  not  extend  to 
Malta,  where  no  rain  had  been  known  for  many  months.  At  six 
o'clock  we  entered  the  port  of  Yaletta,  with  our  anticipaliuus 
highly  raised  as  to  the  gratification  which  awaited  us  in  this 
celebrated  island. 

21# 


CHAPTER    XIX. 

HARBOR ARABS ALLOWED     TO    LAND VISIT     FROM     MR.    CONSUL   WIN- 

TIIROP DIVERS HISTORICAL  NOTICE VALETTA THE  RACES MAL- 
TESE    BOATS INVITATION     FROM     THE     GOVERNOR    TO    TAKE    DINNER 

INVITATIONS     FROM     THE     OFFICERS     OF     THE     GARRISON VISIT     TO    SIR 

WILLIAM    REID GOVERNOR'S    PALACE MR.  WINTHROP'S    RESIDENCE 

MSS.    OF      ITALIAN      OPERAS  CAPTAIN     THOMAS     GRAVES,    R.N. CITTA 

VECCHIA SHOPS THE    GOVERNOR   AND    SUITE    VISIT    THE    YACHT ST. 

JOHN'S    CHURCH WALLS    OF     THE     CITADEL COUNTRY    PEOPLE COS- 
TUME  FORTS     ANGELO,     RICASOLI,     MANOEL,     TIGNe'    AND     ST.     ELMO — ■ 

TURKISH    SIEGE    IN   1565 DEPART    FOR    CONSTANTINOPLE. 

We  found  a  large  quantity  of  small  shipping  in  the  harbor, 
and  one  vessel  thronged  with  Arabs,  bound  for  a  pilgrimage  to 
Mecca.  Some  of  them  were  the  ugliest-looking  customers  I  ever 
saw.  We  were  soon  at  anchor,  and  a  health-officer  came  on 
board,  and  we  were  at  once  allowed  to  land,  —  but  were  full 
of  fear  when  he  took  our  papers  up  with  tongs.  As  soon  as  we 
had  taken  breakfast,  our  consul,  Mr.  William  Winthrop,  came  off 
to  us  and  gave  us  a  cordial  greeting,  and  ofiFered  us  his  best  ser- 
vices to  render  our  visit  agreeable.  When  we  came  on  deck 
from  breakfast,  we  found  a  number  of  boats  around  us,  with  bands 
of  music  of  a  rather  primitive  character,  as  regards  the  instru- 
ments ;  but  our  attention  was  riveted  to  two  or  three  boats  in 
which  were  divers.  They  were  fine-looking  young  men,  and 
were  ready,  for  a  small  silver  coin,  to  go  to  the  bottom,  and  they 
invariably  brought  it  up  in  their  mouths.  These  fellows  were 
admirable  specimens  of  muscle.  I  never  saw  such  perfect  devel- 
opment.     One  of   them  had  a  lad  of  fifteen  who  sat  on  his 


MALTA  —  ITS   HISTORY.  257 

shoulders,  and  they  dove  down  together.  Often  did  they  pass 
under  our  yacht,  and  come  up  at  a  distance  on  the  other  side. 

This  same  island  is  a  most  remarkable  one,  and,  excepting  the 
rock  of  Gibraltar,  no  other  rock  has  greater  claims  to  notice.  I 
say  rock,  for  it  is  nothing  else.  We  have  read  of  Malta  in  the 
entrancing  pages  of  Virtot,  and  have  fancied  that  we  knew 
something  about  the  forts  and  bastions ;  but  the  thing  itself  is 
wondrously  beyond  description.  I  will  not  say  more  of  its  his- 
tory than  that  it  has  been  in  the  possession  of  Phoenicians, 
Greeks,  Carthaginians,  Romans,  Vandals,  Goths,  Normans,  Ger- 
mans, the  Knights  of  St.  John  and  the  French,  and  it  has  been 
held  by  the  British  since  1800.  All  of  the  appearances  of 
nature  are  African;  nothing  is  European  but  the  modes  of  life 
and  the  habits  of  civilization.  The  celebrity  of  Malta  arises 
from  its  having  been  so  long  the  great  bulwark  of  Christendom 
against  the  blood-stained  crescent  banner  of  the  Turk ;  and  from 
this  island  a  signal  check  has  been  given  to  the  corsairs  of  the 
African  shores.  Now  it  is  the  great  stopping-station  of  travellers 
to  the  East. 

Malta,  in  1516,  fell  into  the  hands  of  Charles  V. ;  and  when 
the  Knights  of  St.  John,  who  had  been  expelled  from  Rhodes, 
were  in  search  of  a  new  home,  the  emperor  determined  to  cede 
the  islands  of  Malta,  Gozo,  Comino,  and  Tripoli  in  Africa,  to 
the  order.  The  grand  master  at  this  time  was  Philip  Villiers  de 
L'Isle  Adam,  a  Frenchman.  The  Knights  took  possession  of 
their  acquisitions  October  1530.  The  castle  of  Angelo  was  the 
only  fortified  place,  and  eiforts  were  at  once  made  to  strengthen 
it;  and  from  that  period  down  to  the  capture  of  Malta  by  the 
French,  in  1798,  the  Knights  devoted  their  attention  to  strength- 
ening the  defences  and  increasing  their  number,  till  they  made  it 
one  of  the  most  renowned  military  stations  in  the  world.  Every 
one  has  read  of  the  bloody  sieges  which  were  carried  on  by  the 
Tui-ks  and  corsairs,  and  so  gallantly  withstood  by  the  Knights 
of  the  Cross. 


258  VALETTA  —  ST.    ROCH'S    DAY. 

"  There,  like  an  eagle  in  her  rocky  bower. 
The  gallant  order  brayed  the  Moslem  power, 
While  Europe  echoed  with  their  martial  fame. 
And  rung  with  La  Valette's  undying  fame." 

The  town  of  Valetta  was  founded  by  this  illustrious  Grand 
Master,  It  stands  on  a  peninsula,  crowned  by  Fort  St.  Elmo. 
The  foundation  was  laid  in  March  1566,  and  in  1571  it  became 
the  seat  of  government.  The  city  of  Valetta  is  fully  equal  to 
any  town  in  the  Mediterranean,  as  respects  the  beauty  and  ele- 
gance of  its  streets  and  buildings.  Its  position  between  two 
arms  of  the  sea,  running  very  nearly  parallel  into  the  land,  is 
commanding  ;  and  on  each  side  of  it  is  a  spacious  and  commo- 
dious natural  harbor.  The  streets  are  wide,  and  intersect  each 
other  at  right  angles,  and  the  dwellings  are  thrown  into  blocks. 
The  material  of  building  is  a  fine  cream-colored  stone,  and  the 
flat  roofs  furnish  a  good  promenade.  I  greatly  admired  the 
architecture;  nearly  all  the  houses  have  projecting  balconies, 
and  the  windows  are  adorned  with  deep  cappings,  affording  a  very 
picturesque  appearance  to  the  streets.  We  landed  at  the  wharf 
near  our  ship,  and  soon  found  that  everything  was  novel.  We 
passed  a  magnificent  gate,  and  discovered  that  to  get  into  the 
city  we  had  to  ascend  the  streets  of  steps  immortalized  by  Lord 
Byron,  who  said,  "  Adieu,  ye  cursed  streets  of  stairs,''  —  and 
queer  enough  they  are ;  but,  on  gaining  the  level  ground,  we  were 
all  charmed  with  a  city  which  strongly  reminded  us,  in  some  of 
its  streets,  of  the  grand  city  of  Bath.  We  had  the  good  fortune 
to  reach  Malta  on  St.  Roch's  day,  the  16th  of  August,  on  which 
day  the  annual  races  occur,  and  were  advised  by  Mr.  Winthrop 
to  be  present.  They  take  place  on  the  shore  road,  at  the  head 
of  the  quarantine  harbor.  Mr.  Vanderbilt  engaged  two  Mal- 
tese boats,  and  our  party,  in  company  with  Mr.  and  Mrs. 
Winthrop,  were  to  go  by  water.  Our  route  lay  through  our 
harbor,  round  Fort  St.  Elmo,  and  up  the  quarantine  harbor. 
Of  all  the  boat  excursions  that  I  ever  made,  this  was  by  very  far 


RACE  —  MALTESE   BOAT.  •         261 

the  n.ost  enchanting.  We  had  as  fine  an  evening  as  sunset  ever 
lighted  up  with  its  parting  beams.  We  sailed  close  under  the 
rocky  ramparts  of  Fort  St.  Elmo,  and  then  entered  the  quaran- 
tine harbor,  passing  Fort  Tigne  and  Fort  Emanuel,  and  having 
the  town  of  Valetta  now  upon  our  left.  At  the  head  of  this 
harbor  we  found  the  race-road  on  its  shore,  and  a  vast  multitude 
assembled.  There  were  three  prizes,  —  one  for  donkeys,  one  for 
fillies  and  one  for  horses.  The  animals  were  ridden  by  boys,  and 
they  used  no  saddles  or  bridles,  but  displayed  great  dexterity 
in  riding.  The  race  seemed  to  call  out  the  mass  of  the  popula- 
tion, and  the  shops  were  closed.  The  donkeys  ran  well  under 
severe  whipping,  and  the  horses  made  fair  speed.  There  was  a 
strong  police  upon  the  ground,  and  many  priests  present.  We 
remained  in  our  boats.  In  consequence  of  the  nature  of  the 
harbors,  and  the  position  of  Valetta  and  the  other  towns  and  col- 
lections of  buildings,  a  vast  fleet  of  boats  is  necessary,  and  hun- 
dreds of  men  are  employed  in  the  transport  of  passengers  from 
one  side  to  the  other.  The  Maltese  boat  is  about  twenty-five 
feet  long ;  the  two  ends  are  higher  than  the  midships,  the  stern- 
piece  running  up  about  two  feet  above  the  gunwale  at  that  point, 
and  both  ends  are  alike.  They  are  something  in  general  shape 
like  our  whale-boats,  but  broader  and  heavier.  The  after  end  is 
fitted  up  with  seats,  under  an  awning  rigged  on  a  stationary 
frame,  with  side-curtains,  and  a  very  comfortable  accommodation 
is  afforded.  The  boats  are  fancifully  painted,  and  are  kept  in 
admirable  order.  We  found  the  Maltese  boatmen  active  and 
obliging,  and  quite  intelligent.  For  fifty  cents  we  could  com- 
mand a  boat  and  two  men  from  sunrise  until  midnight. 

Our  return  home  was  diversified  by  a  visit  which  we  made  to 
the  new  English  steamship  Valette,  which  had  that  day  arrived 
from  Marseilles,  in  forty-six  hours.  She  is  deemed  the  fastest 
steamer  in  the  Oriental  line,  and  this  is  the  best  time  ever  made 
from  Marseilles.  The  officer  in  charge  was  very  polite,  and  con- 
ducted us  over  every  part  of  the  ship,  which  is  fitted  up  in 


262  CIVILITIES— governor's  palace. 

excellent  taste ;  but  the  accommodations  of  the  passengers 
seemed  very  limited,  when  compared  with  our  own  in  the  North 
Star.  The  sunset  of  this  evening  will  long  be  remembered  by 
us.  The  sky  was  cloudless,  —  not  as  deep  a  blue  as  we  have  at 
home ;  but  off  to  the  west  there  was  a  broad  magnificent  ex- 
panse of  golden  effulgence,  and  we  can  fully  appreciate  an 
Italian  sunset. 

On  our  arrival  at  the  yacht,  we  found  an  invitation  from  the 
Hon.  Sir  William  Reid,  the  Governor  of  Malta,  inviting  Mr. 
Vanderbilt  and  the  party  to  dinner  at  the  palace ;  but  Mr.  V. 
was  obliged  to  decline  this  polite  attention,  in  consequence  of 
his  arrangements  only  allowing  us  two  days  in  Malta.  Invita- 
tions also  were  kindly  sent  us  from  the  officers  of  the  3rd  regi- 
ment,—  "  the  Buffs," —  the  Royal  Engineers  and  Artillery,  and 
the  68th  Light  Infantry,  requesting  us  to  dine  with  them  on 
successive  evenings.  All  these  kind  overtures  we  were  reluc- 
tantly compelled  to  waive.  The  3d  regiment,  known  as  "  the 
Buffs,"  is  the  only  regiment  which  has  the  privilege  of  passing 
through  the  city  of  London  with  their  flags  flying  and  drums 
beating. 

The  next  day  Mr.  Vanderbilt  invited  me  to  accompany  him 
in  a  call  upon  the  governor.  The  day  was  as  hot  as  I  ever 
experienced,  and  even  in  a  carriage  it  was  fearful.  The  palace 
is  situated  in  a  spacious  square.  It  is  a  vast  edifice,  of  plain 
architecture  externally,  and  is  three  hundred  feet  square.  It  is 
surrounded  on  each  side  by  the  four  principal  streets,  and  on 
three  sides  has  a  row  of  open  or  covered  balconies.  The  palace 
has  two  grand  entrances  in  front,  opening  into  a  court,  and  one 
entrance  on  the  other  sides  of  the  building.  The  interior  of  the 
mansion  has  been  the  care  of  the  different  Grand  Masters  of  the 
order.  It  consists  of  two  stories,  each  containing  a  series  of 
apartments  which  traverse  the  entire  quadrangle.  In  the  court 
is  a  portico,  covering  a  fountain  with  a  statue  of  Neptune.  The 
upper  story  consists  of  numerous  and  elegant  apartments,  and 


SIR    WILLIAM    REID.  263 

very  spacious  saloons,  richly  adorned  with  paintings  in  com- 
memoration of  the  battles  of  the  Knights.  Some  of  these  are 
excellent  productions.  Here  are  many  of  the  works  of  the  first 
masters.  In  the  waiting-room  at  the  end  of  the  hall,  as  we 
ascended  the  grand  staircase,  we  noticed  St.  George  and  the 
Dragon,  St.  Peter,  ^neas,  &c.  In  the  corridor  leading  to  the 
armory,  we  entered  a  room  hung  with  tapestry  representing 
scenes  in  India  and  Africa.  These  tapestries  were  brought 
from  the  Gobelins  one  hundred  and  fifty  years  ago,  but  still  look 
fresh  and  beautiful.  The  armory  is  very  splendid ;  and  here 
you  see  the  warlike  equipments  belonging  to  the  brave  old 
Knights  of  Malta,  Here  was  a  suit  of  black  armor  seven  feet 
three  and  a  half  inches  high.  Among  other  Turkish  trophies,  is 
the  sword  of  the  renowned  pirate  and  Algerine,  Admiral  Dragut. 
The  best  painting  that  I  ever  saw  of  Louis  XVI.  is  in  this  pal- 
ace. It  was  sent  to  the  Grand  Master  by  the  unfortunate  mon- 
arch. We  found  his  Excellency  in  a'  large  room,  surrounded  by 
his  papers,  and  evidently  in  his  usually  occupied  room.  Sir 
William  Reid  is  a  fine-looking,  elderly  gentleman,  of  very  quiet 
manners.  He  received  Mr,  Vanderbilt  with  great  cordiality, 
and  expressed  his  happiness  that  the  yacht  had  visited  the  port. 
The  governor  made  particular  inquiries  after  his  friend  Mr,  W, 
C,  Redfield.  Sir  William  is  an  ofiicer  in  her  majesty's  army, 
and  was  once  Governor  of  Bermuda ;  but  he  is  well  known  as 
the  author  of  various  publications  on  the  theory  of  storms.  Pie 
told  us  that  his  attention  was  first  directed  to  this  subject  by  Mr. 
Redfield,  of  New  York.  Governor  Reid  took  an  active  part  in 
the  management  of  the  London  Exhibition,  in  1851,  and  prob- 
ably owes  his  present  exalted  position  to  the  eminent  services 
which  he  rendered  upon  that  occasion.  Captain  Hoare,  the  son- 
in-law  of  the  governor,  was  present  at  our  interview.  He  is  a 
gentleman  of  much  intelligence,  has  been  in  the  L^nited  States, 
and  had  crossed  from  San  Juan  in  one  of  Mr.  Vanderbilt's 
steamships,  in  company  with  Mr.  Jacob  Vanderbilt,  after  whom 


264  CONSUL  wiNTimor  —  iiis  residence. 

he  inquired  with  friendly  interest.  The  governor  made  many 
inquiries  in  relation  to  American  steamships,  and  their  power  of 
speed.  As  we  were  taking  our  leave,  Sir  "William  informed  Mr, 
Vanderbilt  that  he  should  pay  a  visit  to  the  yacht  the  next  day 
at  twelve  o'clock.  Master  George  Vanderbilt  was  with  us  at 
this  call,  and  it  happened  that  when  he  and  I  were  at  the  Crys- 
tal Palace,  in  London,  we  both  met  Sir  William  Reid,  who  kindly 
introduced  us  to  Mr.  Nesmith,  who  had  charge  of  the  machinery, 
and  from  him  we  had  much  information  as  to  the  steam-power 
of  the  exhibition.  The  lad  was  remembered  by  the  governor  in 
connection  with  some  inquiries  that  he  made  of  me,  and  which 
were  heard  by  him,  and  led  him  to  place  us  under  Mr.  Nesmith's 
care. 

I  went  from  the  palace  to  take  a  family  dinner  with  the  con- 
sul. Mr.  Winthrop  has  a  fine  residence  in  a  house  once  occupied 
by  the  Prior  of  the  Knights  of  St.  John ;  it  is  close  by  St. 
John's  Church.  I  can  hardly  imagine  a  more  pleasant  home 
than  he  possesses.  His  rooms  are  very  spacious,  and  extend 
through  a  long  suite  of  apartments,  on  one  side  of  which  is  a 
gallery,  lined  with  exquisite  shrubs  and  flowers ;  and  on  the 
other  sides  the  rooms  open  upon  a  balcony,  which  overhangs 
a  fine  street.  The  ceilings  are  many  of  them  beautifully  fres- 
coed, and  the  staircase  is  of  massive  and  elegit  stone-work, 
richly  carved.  Mr.  Winthrop  has  been  consul  here  for  nineteen 
years,  and  finds  the  climate  adapted  to  his  health,  which  has 
been  feeble ;  but  he  now  appears  likely  to  live  a  long  life,  which 
all  who  know  him  will,  I  am  sure,  desire  most  earnestly.  Our 
consul  is  a  hard  student ;  he  has  devoted  himself  to  historical 
pursuits  with  great  ardor.  He  has  contributed  a  series  of 
admirable  papers  to  the  Southern  Messenger  upon  the  history 
of  the  Knights  of  Malta,  and  is  one  of  the  principal  contributors 
to  the  admirable  "  Notes  and  Queries,"  published  in  London, 
In  his  library  I  was  much  interested  with  an  extraordinary  col- 
lection of  two  hundred  and  twenty-four  MS.  volumes  of  Italian 


CAPTAIN    GRAVES  —  SINGULAR    COACH.  265 

operas,  from  1590  to  1824,  with  the  names  of  the  persons  to 
■whom  they  were  dedicated,  and  the  places  in  which  they  were 
performed.  They  contain  upwards  of  seventy  thousand  pages, 
and  are  most  admirably  written.  Mr.  W.  has  received  applica- 
tions to  part  with  them  to  go  to  England,  but  ho  would  prefer 
selling  them  to  an  American  library ;  and  he  would  readily  find 
a  purchaser,  I  think,  if  they  were  seen  by  some  of  our  collectors 

At  Mr.  Winthrop's  I  had  the  pleasure  to  meet  with  Captain 
Graves,  of  the  royal  navy.  This  gentleman  has  obtained  much 
celebrity  by  the  admirable  charts  which  he  has  constructed  for 
the  coasts  of  the  Levant.  These  he  presented  to  Captain 
Eldridge ;  they  were  of  great  service  to  us.  Since  we  left 
Malta,  I  am  happy  to  notice  that  Captain  Graves  has  been 
appointed  Superintendent  of  the  Ports  in  Malta ;  he  is  also 
President  of  the  Literary  Society  of  Malta^  I  visited  Captain 
Graves,  and  saw  his  noble  library ;  and  he  most  kindly  favored 
me  with  the  loan  of  several  exceedingly  rare  and  valuable  books, 
which  I  was  to  leave  at  Gibraltar  on  my  return  to  that  port. 

After  dinner,  our  party  took  carriages,  and  we  rode  out  to 
Citta  Vecchia,  sometimes  called  La  Notabile.  The  hack-coach 
here  in  use  is  new  to  us.  It  is  a  close  coach-body,  of  antique 
style,  capable  of  holding  four  persons,  but  with  no  box  for  the 
driver ;  and  rests  on  two  leather  stretchers,  which  run  from  the 
axle  to  the  cross-bar  behind  the  horse.  It  has  but  two  wheels, 
the  ends  of  the  long  shafts  being  mortised  into  the  axle,  and 
thence  running  straight  to  tugs  formed  in  a  strap  traversing  a 
huge  saddle,  at  which  point  they  are  made  fast.  The  entire 
weight  of  the  carriage  is  thus  thrown  on  the  shafts.  The  collar 
and  breeching  are  very  rude  aflFaii-s,  and  the  driver  runs  bare- 
footed at  the  head  of  the  horse,  governirg  him  by  a  long  rope, 
the  spare  length  of  which  he  carries  in  a  coil  in  his  hand. 

This  old  city  is  on  the  highest  ground  of  the  island,  and  nearly 
at  its  centre.  This  is  the  head-quarters  of  the  Catholic  Church, 
and  the  bishop  is  also  titular  Archbishop  of  Rhodes.  He  has  a 
22 


266  CITTA    VECCIIIA — BEGGARS. 

palace  here,  and  one  in  Valetta.  This  city,  though  small,  is 
surrounded  with  walls  and  bastions,  and  is  regarded  as  a  strongly- 
fortified  place.  Its  ancient  name  was  that  of  the  island,  Melita, 
and  is  so  spoken  of  by  Ptolemy  in  his  geography.  It  was  once 
a  stately  city.  The  inauguration  of  the  Grand  Masters  took 
place  here. 

Our  ride  was  through  a  country  of  entire  rock.  The  soil  has 
been  brought  here  from  Sicily,  and  is  mixed  up  with  the  friable 
portions  of  the  rocky  native  soil.  We  found  some  few  good 
houses  on  the  road,  but  the  poor  Maltese  live  in  worse  huts  than 
the  Irish  cabins ;  and  they  who  labor  in  the  city  walk  in  and 
out,  eight,  ten  and  fourteen  miles  a  day,  in  this  burning  sun. 
Assiduous  labor  has  rendered  even  this  rocky  island  very  fertile, 
and  the  products  are  strawberries,  figs,  pomegranates,  grapes, 
peaches,  nectarines,  apricots,  oranges,  lemons,  melons,  medlars, 
plums,  pears,  apples  and  prickly  pears.  The  great  object  of  curi- 
osity at  the  old  city  is  the  cathedral,  the  site  of  which  is  said 
to  be  the  spot  where  Publius  resided,  who  was  governor  when 
Paul  was  shipwi'ecked  here. 

The  church  is  a  fine  edifice,  in  the  rich  Corinthian  order,  and 
it  has  a  very  splendid  altar  of  marble.  Some  of  the  party 
visited  the  catacombs  of  St.  Paul,  and  explored  these  ancient 
sepulchres.  I  went  with  a  procession  into  a  church,  to  witness  a 
mass  on  behalf  of  some  person  who  had  just  departed  this  life. 
The  priests  were  returning  with  the  host,  and  a  number  of  boys 
carrying  lamps  and  tapers,  headed  the  array.  Plere  we  found 
more  beggars  than  at  any  other  place,  and  they  were  wretched- 
looking  ones,  too.  Children  without  eyes,  or  perhaps  some  with 
only  one,  were  held  up  by  parents  for  alms.  Eye-diseases  are 
awfully  prevalent,  owing  to  the  white  dusty  clouds  constantly 
flying  from  the  rocky  ground. 

On  our  return,  we  passed  the  governor's  country-house,  which 
has  a  very  fine  garden.  It  is  at  St.  Antonio.  Here  arc  ponds 
and  fountains. 


DISTINGUISHED    VISITORS  —  ST.    JOIIN'S    CHURCH,    267 

We  found  the  shops  well  supplied,  and  the  goods  quite  reason- 
able. In  a  bookseller's  shop  I  was  pleased  to  see  a  fair  repre- 
sentation of  American  books.  Harpers'  publications  were  here 
in  considerable  numbers.  Several  of  us  took  a  dinner  on  shore 
at  Baker's  Hotel,  and  found  it  an  excellent  one;  and  Mr.  Baker 
was  exceedingly  kind,  and  rendered  me  very  valuable  services 
by  procuring  for  me  some  things  which  I  had  in  vain  attempted 
to  obtain.  The  hotel  is  thoroughly  English,  and  the  attention 
all  that  can  be  wished. 

On  the  morning  of  the  18th,  we  had  a  large  number  of  visit- 
ors from  the  city ;  and  at  twelve  o'clock  precisely  we  observed 
the  governor's  boats  on  their  way.  His  excellency  came  on 
board  under  a  royal  salute  from  the  North  Star  of  twenty-one 
guns.  He  was  accompanied  by  his  sister-in-law,  Lady  Bolland, 
the  widow  of  the  distinguished  English  Judge  Bolland,  Rear 
Admiral  Houston  Stuart,  General  Ferguson,  and  some  thirty 
British  officers  of  the  garrison,  and  a  number  of  ladies.  Gen- 
eral Ferguson  is  a  noble-looking  man ;  he  is  one  of  the  most 
distinguished  officers  in  the  English  army,  and  holds  his  present 
honorable  position  in  acknowledgment  of  his  long  services  and 
great  bravery  in  many  hard-fought  battles.  He  is  regarded  as 
one  of  the  noblest  ornaments  of  the  profession.  Our  visitors 
appeared  to  be  very  much  pleased  and  surprised  with  the  yacht, 
which  they  examined  very  thoroughly.  Admiral  Stuart  and 
several  of  the  officers  complimented  Captain  Eldridge  upon  the 
admirable  manner  in  which  the  salute  was  fired,  and  said  it 
would  have  been  creditable  to  a  man-of-war. 

As  soon  as  our  friends  left  us,  I  went  on  shore  to  visit  St. 
John's  Church,  which  is  the  great  church  of  Malta.  It  was 
built  in  1576,  and  has  been  adorned  at  large  expense  by  all  the 
Grand  IMasters  of  the  order.  The  facade  of  the  church  is  any- 
thing but  attractive.  The  interior  is  fine,  and  the  choir  has  an 
admirable  sculpture  in  marble,  representing  the  Baptism  of 
Christ  by  John,  by  Bernini.     The  roof  is  adorned  with  paint- 


268  VALETTA  —  :,I0XUMENT3. 

ings,  in  illusf ration  of  the  life  of  John.  The  pavement  is  richly 
adorned  with  sepulchral  slabs  in  mosaic,  with  colored  marbles, 
jasper,  agate  and  precious  stones.  These  cover  the  graves  of 
the  knights  who  died  here,  and  there  are  many  declarations  on 
these  slabs  of  the  virtues  of  the  departed  heroes.  Tlie  grand 
altar  is  very  superb,  and  chairs  of  velvet  are  placed  for  the 
bishop  and  governor.  The  chapels  which  used  to  belong  to  the 
chapters  or  languages  of  the  order  run  parallel  with  the  nave, 
and  constitute  the  aisles.  They  are  very  richly  embellished,  and 
the  roofs  are  all  dome-shaped.  From  one  of  these  chapels  is  a 
staircase  leading  to  the  crypt,  in  which  are  the  tombs  of  the 
Grand  Masters.  Here  is  interred  L'Isle  Adam,  the  first  Grand 
Master  in  Malta.  Of  this  great  man  I  was  so  fortunate  as  to 
procure  a  grand  portrait,  wdiich  is  as  old  as  his  time,  but  in  per- 
fect condition,  and  a  painting  of  much  merit.  The  Decollation 
of  St.  John,  by  Michael  Angelo  Caravaggio,  is  a  noble  picture ; 
and  so  is  the  Flagellation,  by  Sebastlano  del  Piombo. 

The  Catholic  clergy  of  this  island  are  thought  to  be  more  than 
one  thousand.  An  English  church,  known  as  St.  Paul's,  was 
built  here  in  1839,  by  the  Dowager  Queen  Adelaide.  It  is  a 
plain  and  neat  edifice,  and  well  adapted  for  divine  service. 

In  this  place  we  found  some  excellent  statuary  cut  out  of  the 
soft  yellow  stone  used  in  the  buildings  here.  The  workmanship 
was  very  good,  and  the  men  have  taste  enough  to  make  use  of 
the  classical  models  of  antiquity.  We  obtained  some  fine  vases 
and  figures,  which  are  lifelike. 

More  thafi  once  did  I  wander  over  the  walls  of  Valetta  which 
overlook  the  ditch,  and  where  are  monuments  to  the  memory  of 
former  governors  of  this  fortress  and  other  persons  of  note.  The 
tomb  of  the  Marquis  of  Hastings  is  under  the  Cavalier  St.  John, 
and  in  another  place  the  sepulchre  of  Governor  Sir  Thomas 
Maitland.  The  view  is  as  fine  as  seems  possible;  the  walls 
overlok  the  great  harbor  and  its  lateral  creeks  or  openings, 
which  accommodate  so  many  vessels,  the  three  towns  opposite, 


COSTUMES. 


269 


nml  the  castles  which  defend  them;  and  there,  too,  you  have  a 
distinct  view  of  the  Floriana  suburbs.  This  is  a  jjlace  of  great 
rcscrt,  and  the  prospect  of  the  sea  in  the  evening  is  very  charm- 
ing. The  native  dress  is  much  worn  by  the  lower  classes ;  a 
long  cap,  hanging  down  behind,  of  various  colors,  I  saw  on  many 
men  ;  and  this  is  used  as  a  pouch  for  small  articles.  Many  of 
the  Maltese  wear  a  silk  or  cotton  sash  to  hold  up  the  pantaloons. 
The  white  clothes  of  the  poorest  were  beautifully  clean.  Many 
of  the  country  people  looked  quite  jauntily ;  the  costume  is  seen 
in  the  illustration. 


I  greatly  admired  the  dress  of  the  Maltese  ladies.  It  consists 
of  a  black  silk  petticoat,  which  is  worn  over  a  body  of  some 
other  silk  or  print,  and  this  is  called  a  half-onnella.  The  upper 
part  is  called  the  onnella,  and  is  also  of  black  silk,  drawn  up 
into  gathers  at  the  centre  of  one  of  the  outer  seams.  In  the 
e«am  of  one  of  the  remaining  divisions  is  enclosed  a  thin  piece 
22* 


270  COSTUMES  —  CASTLE    OF    ST.    ANGELO. 

of  whalebone,  wliich  is  drawn  over  the  head,  and  'forms  an  ele- 
gant arch,  leaving  the  face  and  neck  perfectly  open.  The  left 
arm  is  covered  with  part  of  this  habit,  and  the  right  is  used  for 
keeping  down  the  angle  of  the  other.  The  whole  is  very  neat, 
and  the  Maltese  ladies  are  not  deficient  in  grace  to  show  their 
dress  off  to  advantage.  I  hope  this  account  may  be  intelligible  ; 
if  it  be  not,  I  may  be  pardoned  when  I  say  that  it  is  the  descrip- 
tion given  in  one  of  their  publications  at  Valetta.  The  country- 
women usually  wear  striped  native  cotton ;  the  head-dress  is  a 
tsholkana,  instead  of  an  onnella.  The  doublett  is  in  shape  the 
same  as  the  half-onnella  ;  but  on  gala  occasions  they  put  on  the 
gezuira,  which  is  a  kind  of  petticoat  of  blue  cotton  striped  with 
white,  drawn  up  in  thick  creases  round  the  waist,  and  open  on 
the  right  side,  where  it  is  tied  with  bows  of  ribbon.  The  poor 
women  of  the  island  rarely  wear  shoes,  but  have  one  pair  which 
they  keep  for  special  occasions.  The  onnella,  no  doubt,  took  its 
origin  from  the  oriental  veil.  I  have  noticed  vast  numbers  of 
the  laboring  men  lying  down  in  the  streets  and  on  the  docks, 
and  I  am  told  that  they  often  sleep  all  night  exposed  to  the  air. 
I  will  not  close  this  notice  of  our  visit  without  a  slight  account 
of  the  forts,  which  are  so  mai-ked  a  feature  of  the  place. 

CASTLE    OF    ST.    ANGKLO. 

In  870  the  Arabs  erected  here  a  small  fort  to  giiard  their 
piratical  craft  which  anchored  in  the  gi'eat  harbor.  The  Knights 
of  St.  John,  on  their  settlement,  made  it  their  chief  bulwark, 
and  added  greatly  to  its  strength.  In  1686  it  was  very  much 
enlarged,  under  the  Grand  Master  Gregorio  Carafa,  and  it  took 
its  present  appearance  in  1690.  It  presents  a  most  formidable 
appearance,  and  consists  of  four  batteries,  one  above  another,  in 
the  style  of  an  amphitheatre,  and  mounts  fifty-one  guns,  and 
others  upon  the  cavalier  and  adjacent  walls.  This  fortress  is 
garrisoned  by  British  artillery. 


FORTS.  271 

FORT   RICASOLI. 

This  was  founded  i  i  1670,  by  the  Cavalier  RicasoH,  at  his 
personal  expense ;  and  the  Grand  Master  Cottoner  ordered  it  to 
be  called  by  his  name,  as  a  mark  of  his  gratitude  for  such  generos- 
ity. This  fort  is  built  on  a  point  of  an  angular  projection,  and 
corresponds  with  St.  Elmo,  on  the  opposite  shore,  in  front  of 
Valetta ;  and  thus  the  two  forts  command  the  entrance  to  the 
great  harbor.  From  the  sea,  if  well  garrisoned,  the  fort  is 
quite  impregnable  ;  and  from  the  land  it  could  only  be  reached 
by  surmounting  a  long  succession  of  very  strongly-defended 
forts,  which  would  threaten  destruction  to  any  assailants. 

FORT    MANOEL. 

This  was  erected  in  1726,  and  is  now  used  as  a  Lazaretto. 

FORT    TIGNE. 

This  fortress  was  built  in  1796,  and  named  in  honor  of  the 
Cavalier  Tigne,  who  planned  the  barracks  of  St.  Elmo.  This 
fortress,  in  connection  with  St.  Elmo,  defends  the  entrance  to  the 
quarantine  harbor;  it  is  regarded  as  a  very  strong  work,  and 
has  extensive  mines  cut  in  the  solid  rock.  It  is  garrisoned  by 
the  artillery  and  a  company  of  the  line.  It  answers  to  Fort 
Ricasoli,  and  St.  Elmo  is  the  great  central  point  between  the 
two  harbors;  the  wings  of  defence  are  Ricasoli  and  Tigne. 

THE    CASTLE    OF    ST.    ELMO. 

This,  I  have  already  mentioned,  stands  upon  the  extremity  of 
the  peninsula  which  separates  the  two  chief  harbors ;  and  the 
great  harbor  on  the  left  has  three  lateral  inlets,  which  are 
defended  by  Fort  St.  Angelo,  and  on  the  shores  of  which  stand 
the  towns  of  Burmola,  Senglea  and  Vittoriosa,  —  all  nearly 
opposite  to  Valetta.  The  Fort  St.  Elmo  was  built  by  the  Vice- 
roy of  Sicily,  against  the  Turks,  in  1488.     On  obtaining  posses- 


272  SIEGE    OF    ST.    ELMO    BY    TUKKS. 

sion  of  the  island,  the  knights  saw  the  vast  importance  of  this 
point ;  and  when  they  commenced  the  city  of  Valetta,  they  made 
St.  Elmo  the  citadel.  In  1565,  the  Sultan  Solyman,  angry  at 
the  seizure  of  a  Turkish  galleon  belonging  to  one  of  his  favorites, 
threatened  the  destruction  of  the  order ;  and,  for  this  end,  sent  a 
powerful  fleet  under  Dragut,  the  admiral  of  the  Algerine  navy. 
This  armament  appeared  off  the  island  in  May.  The  attack  was 
made  on  St.  Elmo,  usually  defended  by  sixty  men  under  the 
command  of  a  knight ;  but  on  this  occasion  sixty  knights  and  a 
company  of  Spanish  infantry  were  sent  in  as  a  reinforcement. 
The  Turki>5h  artillery  battered  the  fort  from  sea  and  land.  A 
breach  was  effected,  and  a  bloody  contest  followed;  and  the 
result  would  have  been  the  destruction  of  the  garrison,  had  not 
supplies  arrived  in  the  night  from  the  other  side  of  the  great 
harbor,  and  the  wounded  were  carried  back  in  the  boats.  The 
ravelin  was  stormed  by  the  Turks,  and  fell  into  their  hands  after 
a  loss  on  their  part  of  three  thousand  men.  But  the  courage  of 
the  knights  was  unabated.  At  last,  in  their  exigency,  they  sen! 
a  knight  to  the  Grand  Master,  to  request  permission  to  evacuate 
the  fort.  La  Yalette,  knowing  the  vast  importance  of  the  place, 
would  not  permit  it  to  be  abandoned,  but  managed  to  excite 
the  emulation  of  the  garrison,  who  were  now  determined  to  die 
rather  than  surrender  their  charge.  On  the  16th  June,  a 
general  assault  was  made  by  the  Turks,  and  the  walls  were 
laid  level  with  the  rock  on  which  they  were  built.  The  enemy 
entered  the  ditch,  and  a  heavy  fire  was  kept  up  on  both  sides. 
The  assault  lasted  for  six  hours,  when  the  Turks  retreated  with 
a  loss  of  three  thousand  men.  Seventeen  knights  perished  in 
the  breach,  and  three  hundred  soldiers  were  killed  and  wounded. 
A  volunteer  reinforcement  from  the  other  side,  of  one  hun- 
dred and  fifty  men,  came  over ;  but  it  was  stated  that  this  was 
the  last  aid  that  could  be  afforded.  The  22d  of  June  the 
assault  was  renewed  at  break  of  day;  and,  after  defending 
the  place  for  four  hours   only  sixty  men   remained  to  man  the 


MAGAZINES.  273 

breach.  At  eleven  o'clock  the  janissaries  took  possession  of 
the  Cavalier,  and  Dragut  entered  the  fort.  Not  one  knight  sur- 
vived, and  every  soldier  perished  in  the  breach.  The  Turks  lost 
eight  thousand  men,  and  the  order  had  to  mourn  the  deaths  of 
three  hundred  knights  and  about  one  thousand  three  hundred 
soldiers.  The  bloody  conqueror,  anxious  to  revenge  the  death 
of  his  men,  ordered  a  search  for  the  dead  knights,  ripped  out 
their  hearts,  cut  their  breasts  in  the  shape  of  a  cross,  and  set 
them  afloat  on  boards,  for  the  tide  to  waft  them  to  St.  Angelo, 
and  the  head-quarters  of  the  Grand  Master,  at  Borgo.  La 
Yalette,  by  way  of  reprisal,  put  his  prisoners  to  death,  and, 
loading  his  cannon  with  their  heads,  fired  them  into  the  enemy's 
ranks.  The  next  year  after  the  defeat  of  the  Turkish  invasion, 
the  first  stone  of  Valetta  was  laid,  and  the  Castle  of  St.  Elmo 
built  in  great  strength.  In  1687  it  was  almost  entirely  rebuilt, 
and  early  in  the  seventeenth  century  the  bastions  of  hard  lime- 
stone were  added,  and  supplied  with  artillery. 

On  the  angles  of  the  ramparts  which  command  the  entrance 
into  both  harbors  are  seen  two  turrets,  originally  intended  for 
the  purpose  of  watching  all  vessels  entering  and  departing  the 
harbor.  A  treble  row  of  magazines,  nineteen  on  each  story,  now 
forms  a  barrack  for  two  regiments  of  the  line,  and  a  safe  asylum 
for  females  in  ease  of  a  siege.  These  magazines  are  bomb-proof, 
and  are  within  the  walls  under  the  western  wing  of  the  fort. 

I  must  not  forget  to  name  the  vast  chambers  which  are  dus: 
in  the  rocks  to  preserve  grain  in  case  of  siege.  These  caves  are 
hermetically  sealed,  and  will  preserve  grain  for  one  hundred 
years.  A  vast  quantity  of  wheat  is  brought  here  from  the  Black 
Sea,  and  consequently  there  are  in  this  port  many  Turkish  and 
Greek  vessels,  the  sailors  in  which  do  not  appear  very  ship-shape, 
or,  as  Captain  Eldridge  says,  "  don't  look  cut  the  right  way  of 
the  leather."  Valetta  is  a  free  port,  but  wheat  and  oil  pay  a 
small  duty.  Rents  are  quite  reasonable  in  Valetta,  and  good 
houses  can  be  had  from  one  hundred  dollars  per  annum  upwards. 


274  LEAVE    MALTA. 

Having  purchased  laces,  mittens,  corals,  vases,  statues,  pic- 
tures, &c.,  we  prepared  to  depart.  We  did  not  leave  Malta 
without  regret ;  for  we  had  formed  very  pleasant  acquaintances. 
Mr.  and  Mrs.  Winthrop  and  Captain  Graves  were  very  kind  and 
friendly,  and  placed  us  all  under  lasting  obligations.  They 
dined  with  us  while  the  anchor  was  being  weighed,  and  at  seven 
p.  »i.  on  18th  August  we  left  Malta  for  Constantinople. 


CHAPTER   XX. 

-.1  ^W 

MOREA CERIGO CAPE  COLONNA TENEDOS PLAINS  OF  TROY a*f(JWi4l 

AND     FRENCH     FLEETS SIG^UM HELLESPONT DARDANELLES  -^  CJ^ 

TLES    OF   EUROPE   AND   ASIA PROPONTIS,    OR   SEA    OF    MARMORA FIRST 

VIEW    OF    STAMBOUL SCENERY ANCHORAGE     OFF    PERA MR.    BROWN 

AND    OTHER   VISITORS VISIT    TO     PERA,    GALATA     AND     TOPHANA SUL- 
TAN'S   NEW    PALACE GULLS SULTAN'S    FIRMAN SERAGLIO ATMEI- 

DAN,    OR   HIPPODROME SUBLIME    PORTE LIBRARY ANCIENT     ARMOR 

MOSQUE   OF  ST.    SOPHIA HISTORICAL   NOTICE,    ETC. 

On  a  fine  evening  we  steamed  out  of  the  famous  port  of  Malta, 
and  lay  a  direct  course  for  Cape  Matapan,  the  southern  point 
of  the  Morea.  During  the  night  the  wind  freshened,  and  at 
about  twelve  o'clock  we  passed  a  man-of-war,  which  we  supposed 
to  be  a  United  States  ship,  as  one  was  expected  to  arrive  in 
Malta. 

The  nineteenth  was  not  quite  so  pleasant  a  day ;  it  was  close 
and  muggy,  and  no  bad  imitation  of  an  American  dog-day.  It 
was  in  charming  weather  that  we  made  our  first  view  of  the 
Morea,  and  went  close  by  Matapan,  which  runs  out  to  a  lofty, 
precipitous  jut,  and  at  its  base  is  a  cavern,  which  looks  as 
if  it  bore  marks  of  volcanic  action.  My  copy  of  Lord  Byron  was 
now  in  demand.  We  next  crossed  the  mouth  of  the  Grulf  of 
Kolokythia,  and  obtained  a  good  sight  of  Mount  Taygetus, 
which  takes  its  name  from  Taygete,  the  daughter  of  Atlas.  Its 
highest  point  is  about  three  miles  south  of  Sparta.  We  were 
now  making  the  north  p:?int  of  Cerigo,  the  chief  of  the  Ionian 
Islands.  The  coast  was  precipitous  and  barren,  but  its  valleys 
are  exceedingly  fertile,  and  produce  wine,  oil,  flax,  cotton  and 
silk,  and  corn  enough  is  raised  to  support  the  inhabitants.     The 


276  TENEDOS — PLAINS   OF   TROY. 

population  is  about  nine  thousand.  We  saw  a  vast  number  of 
fishing-boats  engaged  in  their  business,  which  seemed  very  profit- 
able, as  they  caught  a  great  many.  These  islands  are  now  under 
British  protection,  and  enjoy  a  greater  degree  of  prosperity  and 
more  commerce  than  formerly. 

We  passed  Cape  Spati  and  its  chapel,  and  made  Cape  St. 
Angelo  and  its  rocky  shore,  and  then  bore  away  north-easterly 
for  the  Straits  of  Doro,  passing  between  Zea  and  Macronisi 
Islands,  and  leaving  St.  George  to  our  left.  Off  Cape  Colonna 
we  caught  a  glimpse  of  the  ruins  of  the  Temple  of  Minerva,  of 
which  several  columns  remain ;  and  they  stand  on  an  elevation 
of  two  hundred  feet  above  the  sea,  and  are  visible  midway  in  the 
straits.  The  passage  between  Macronisi  and  Zea  is  about  eight 
miles,  giving  us  a  fair  prospect  of  both  shores.  The  port  of  Zea  is 
an  excellent  one,  and  we  passed  by  it,  as  it  stands  on  the  north- 
west part  of  the  island ;  on  some  charts  it  is  put  down  as  the 
Port,  in  others  as  St.  Nicholas.  The  wind  was  ahead,  and  the 
sea  rough  for  many  hours. 

Passing  the  Straits  of  Doro,  we  bore  away  for  Tenedos,  and 
on  the  morning  of  the  twenty-second  we  came  up  with  the  Island 
of  Mytelene,  at  early  light.  This  was  the  Lesbos  of  classic 
story,  and  here  Sappho  and  Alcaeus  were  born.  We  were  off 
Tenedos  at  seven  o'clock.  This  island  is  six  miles  in  length,  but 
only  about  two  and  a  half  in  width,  and  is  a  rocky  spot.  The 
town  is  small  and  mean  looking.  I  noticed  the  first  mosque  that 
I  have  seen.  A  fortress  with  a  large  number  of  guns  mounted, 
and  a  number  of  soldiers  on  the  shore,  looked  as  if  it  were 
regarded  of  some  importance.  The  Turkish  flag  was  waving  from 
the  walls.  It  was  to  this  island  that  the  treacherous  Greeks 
withdrew  their  fleet,  to  induce  the  Trojans  to  imagine  that  they 
had  abandoned  the  siege,  and  then  sent  the  wooden  horse  to 
Troy.  Almost  directly  opposite  to  Tenedos  are  the  Plains  of 
Troy.  The  exact  position  of  the  renowned  city  is  a  matter  of 
dispute.     On   the    coast    are    many    hillocks,    which   tradition 


FLEETS   IN   BESHIKA   BAY.  277 

declares  to  be  the  tomba  of  Achilles,  Hector,  Ajax,  Peneleus  and 
other  magnates  of  the  Homeric  song.  Here,  too,  are  ruins  of 
vast  magnitude.  Off  at  a  little  distance  west  lie  Leuinos  and 
Imbros,  the  hiding  spots  of  the  Greeks,  and  the  former  famous 
for  the  ancient  assertion  of  the  rights  of  the  ladies,  who  took  a 
short  cut  to  their  object  by  murdering  all  the  men.  But  now,  at 
a  little  past  seven  o'clock,  we  were  interested  by  .observing,  just 
ahead,  a  vast  fleet  of  ships  of  the  line  ;  this  was  the  combined 
fleet  of  England  and  France  lying  at  anchor  in  Beshika  Bay. 
Captain  Eldridge,  to  give  us  a  fair  view,  shaped  his  course 
directly  through  the  fleets,  and  we  had  a  capital  opportunity  to 
see  these  noble  ships.  The  French  ships  were  very  fine,  and 
looked  in  good  order.  The  combined  force  consisted  of  about 
'  twenty-five  ships  of  the  line,  and  perhaps  twelve  or  fifteen 
steamers.  As  we  passed  we  dipped  our  colors,  and  the  English 
returned  the  compliment ;  but  the  Frenchmen  were  not  so  polite. 
Besides  these  large  ships,  there  were  probably  twenty-five  or 
thirty  small  vessels  and  tenders  engaged  in  purveying  for  the 
armament. 

Cape  Janissary  is  the  site  of  the  ancient  Sigoeum,  and  is  the 
south  headland  of  the  entrance  to  the  Hellespont.  Here  the 
Scamander  pours  its  waters  into  the  sea.  The  scenery  on  the 
Asiatic  side  immediately  improved  on  doubling  this  point,  and 
the  shore  looked  more  fertile  than  on  the  European.  The  Helles- 
pont here  is  about  three  miles  wide,  and  gradually  diminishes  its 
breadth.  We  passed  about  midway,  and  saw  both  the  castles 
distinctly.  On  the  European  shore  there  is  an  old  battery  out- 
side the  Hellespont,  and  a  new  castle  on  the  promontory,  at  the 
entrance,  of  seventy  cannon  and  four  mortars.  On  the  Asiatic 
side  stands  an  old  castle,  with  a  battery  of  eighty  guns  and  four 
mortars.  All  our  party  spent  the  forenoon  on  deck,  and  we 
made  advantageous  use  of  the  volumes  of  Schrceder,  Stephens, 
and  the  ancient  but  invaluable  folio  volume  by  Sandys,  who, 
though  he  travelled  and  wrote  two  hundred  years  ago,  is  stiil 
23 


278  THE  DARDANELLES. 

unsurpassed  as  a  local  guide  in  the  East.  I  left  my  own  copy 
at  home  by  a  mistake ;  in  London  I  could  not  get  the  old  book 
for  less  than  four  guineas ;  and  when  at  Malta,  my  friend  Cap- 
tain Graves,  hearing  me  lament  the  loss  of  it  on  this  voyage, 
kindly  allowed  me  to  take  his  copy.  Several  fine  locations  now 
appeared  on  the  European  side,  the  country-houses  looked  quite 
cosey,  and  the  cypress  was  abundant.  Some  of  the  hill-tops 
were  very  lofty,  and  we  observed  tents  on  their  summits.  A 
large  number  of  vessels  lay  at  anchor  waiting  for  a  fair  wind,  and, 
by  comparing  their  height  with  the  elevation  of  the  land,  we  con- 
cluded that  it  must  be  at  least  two  thousand  feet.  Six  or  seven 
miles  brought  us  to  the  famous  Dardanelles.  Here,  on  the  Asiatic 
side,  is  the  fortress  or  castle  called  Sultani  Kalessi,  with  one 
hundred  and  twenty  guns,  many  of  which  discharge  immense 
stone  balls.  Kilid  Bahr  is  the  name  of  the  castle  on  the  Euro- 
pean side,  and  it  mounts  sixty-four  guns.  We  now  approach  to 
Sestos  and  Abydos,  and  the  spot  which  has  been  immortalized  by 
Leander,  Lord  Byron  and  Dr.  Holmes'  oyster-man.  The  town 
of  Galipoli,  at  the  promontory  which  makes  the  entrance  to  the 
Sea  of  Marmora  (the  ancient  Propontis),  has  an  old  castle,  with 
a  mole  and  lighthouse.  The  country  directly  round  it  is  very 
pretty  and  English-looking.  We  directed  our  course  for  the 
northern  point  of  the  Isle  of  Marmora,  and  during  the  night  had 
more  motion  than  we  had  expected  in  this  inland  sea ;  and  here 
we  shipped  our  first  sea  on  the  voyage.  At  break  of  day  we 
were  getting  near  to  Constantinople,  —  and  I  am  sure  that  the 
impressions  of  this  day  will  never  be  erased  from  my  memory. 
Like  Mr.  Schroeder,  we  made  this  port  at  early  day,  and  I  shall 
appropriate  his  description  of  the  scenery,  which  is,  in  my  opin- 
ion, a  most  felicitous  attempt  at  the  creation  of  a  verbal  pano- 
rama. 

"  The  sun  was  peeping,  with  half-closed  eyelids,  through  the 
woods  on  the  heights  beyond  Scutari ;  the  sea  lay  in  breath- 
less quiet,  and  the  brilliant  city  glittered  with  its  minarets,  its 


FIRST   VIEW    OF   CONSTANTINOPLE.  279 

mighty  domes,  its  towers  and  the  white  sheen  of  palaces.  The 
Seraglio  Point  jutted  out,  a  mass  of  cupola  and  a  forest  of  rich 
foliage ;  and  its  walls  skirted  round  the  margin  of  the  point,  a 
compact  and  massive  front  of  elegance.  The  city  rose  loftily 
behind  this  garden  fore-ground.  Scutari  sat  like  a  rival,  oppo- 
site ;  Pera  on  a  cape  just  beyond  the  Seraglio ;  and  the  Bos- 
phorus  opened  in  a  vast  perspective  of  palaces,  on  either  shore, 
far  into  the  distance,  the  banks  rising  with  rich  foliage,  and 
every  height  crowned  with  some  noble  kiosk.  The  gilded  tops 
of  a  hundred  minarets  caught  the  sun-rays  in  fire,  and  the  domes 
seemed  to  hover  over  all  lesser  things.  We  neared  rapidly,  in 
the  still  morning,  passing  on  our  left  the  famous  '  Seven  Tow- 
ers,'—  a  fortress  famed  in  the  annals  of  tyranny  and  cruelty, — 
and  wound  along  the  whole  elegant  curve  of  the  Seraglio  Point, 
which  is  inconceivably  beautiful  from  the  water ;  a  grand  com- 
position of  foliage,  and  every  Turkish  architectural  fan^cy.  We 
entered  the  Bosphorus,  and  looked  still  further  into  its  beautiful 
distance.  On  the  right,  in  Asia,  was  Scutari,  only  a  lesser  Con- 
stantinople ;  and  the  distance  across  to  the  Seraglio  Point,  in 
Europe,  cannot,  I  think,  exceed  a  mile  and  a  half.  Pera  was 
on  the  other  side  of  the  Golden  Horn,  which  opened  from  the 
Seraglio  Point  on  the  left;  and  before  I  could  well  recover  from 
my  bewildered  feelings  we  had  advanced  into  the  Golden  Horn." 
It  was  a  matter  of  some  difficulty  to  find  suitable  anchorage 
for  our  yacht,  as  all  around  us  were  large  vessels  and  steamers 
at  anchor,  and  the  currents  set  in  at  this  point  with  tremendous 
force.  We  at  last  selected  a  spot  in  front  of  Pera  and  Galata, 
and  perhaps  three  hundred  yards  from  the  shore.  Near  us  lay 
a  ship  which  hoisted  the  English  yacht  flag.  She  was  about  four 
hundred  tons,  and  belonged  to  Mr.  Leyland,  of  London.  Close 
by,  also,  was  the  British  war-steamship,  the  Firebrand,  which 
had  just  arrived  with  despatches  to  the  minister.  A  lovelier 
position  than  we  lay  in  could  not  be  found.  The  hills  of  Con- 
stantinople were  off  to  our  left,  Pera  and  its  heights  before  us, 


280  TOPHANA    AND    GALATA. 

and  the  Golden  Horn  dividing  these  cities,  and  over  the  Horn  a 
bridge  which  unites  the  two  places.  Scutari,  with  its  crowded 
houses  and  charming  back-ground,  lay  off  to  the  south;  and  on  all 
sides  were  ships  of  various  sizes,  and  hundreds  of  the  graceful 
caiques  shooting  in  every  direction,  and  impelled  by  noble- 
looking  Turks. 

I  think  we  hardly  felt  like  leaving  the  deck  to  take  our  break- 
fast, and  every  moment  was  a  loss  that  deprived  us  of  the  oppor- 
tunity to  gaze  upon  the  wondrous  shores  on  either  hand. 

An  elegant  caique  soon  came  alongside,  and  we  had  the  hap- 
piness to  meet  with  Mr.  Brown,  the  dragoman,  or  secretary  of  our 
embassy,  who  very  politely  offered  us  his  own  and  Mrs.  Brown's 
friendly  services  while  we  remained  in  port ;  and  he  chalked  out 
a  plan  of  operations  by  which  we  might  make  the  most  of  our 
time.  Visitors  in  vast  numbers  now  dropped  in,  and  among  the 
many,  I  remember  with  pleasure  the  call  which  we  received  from 
a  young  ofl&cer  of  the  Firebrand  steam-frigate,  Mr.  J.  B.  But- 
ler. Mr.  and  Mx-s.  Leyland,  and  their  son  and  daughter,  tutor 
and  governesses,  came  from  the  yacht  Sylphide,  and  we  were 
much  gratified  with  the  party. 

After  dinner  we  landed  in  Pera,  which,  with  Galata  and  To- 
phana,  are  the  suburbs,  in  which  all  foreigners  reside ;  and  they 
answer  to  Constantinople  as  Brooklyn  does  to  New  York,  but  are 
united  to  Constantinople  by  a  bridge  resting  upon  boats,  which 
spans  the  Golden  Horn.  Tophana  and  Galata  are  on  the  water's 
edge,  and  Pera  covers  the  hill-top.  In  Galata  is  the  naval  arse- 
nal, and  the  military  affairs  are  chiefly  carried  on  in  Tn^hana. 
The  impressions  produced  upon  a  foreigner  at  landing  are  very 
strange.  He  has  been  gazing  upon  a  capital  of  wonderful  splen- 
dor and  magnificence,  and  he  finds  himself  at  once  in  scenes  of 
dirt  and  filth  which  cannot  be  surpassed  in  the  narrowest  lanes 
of  New  York,  or  in  the  worst  streets  leading  to  the  piers  of  the 
North  river.  Streets  we  did  not  find  on  landing,  but  old 
wooden  shanties  seemed  to  have  been  rained  down,  and  our 


VISIT  TO    PEKA.  281 

course  was  between  them,  and  round  them,  and  all  the  time  up, 
up.  We  had  a  kind  guide  in  Mr.  G.  De  Giacombo,  a  Greek,  who 
carries  on  th  i  ship-chandlery  business,  and  had  the  supply  of  our 
yacht.  He  piloted  us  round,  and  took  us  to  several  stores ;  and 
at  one  house,  up  stairs,  we  saw  some  exquisitely-embroidered 
muslin  dresses,  wrought  by  Armenian  women.  The  ladies 
thought  them  more  beautiful  than  any  similar  work  in  Paris. 
The  heat  was  intense,  and  the  labor  of  ascending  the  wretched 
streets,  and  getting  out  of  the  way  of  asses  laden  with  stones, 
who  went  straight  on,  was  considerable.  The  loads  on  these 
donkeys  were  immense ;  bricks,  stones,  timber,  were  tied  up  with 
cords,  and  thrown  over  their  backs,  and  a  Turk  walked  behind 
smoking.  We  entered  a  cafe  for  the  purpose  of  obtaining  ice- 
cream, but  found  the  preparation  not  at  all  palatable.  We  then 
made  our  first  acquaintance  with  sherbet.  It  was  rather  poor 
stuiF,  made  of  fruit  and  water,  and  is  better  in  poetry  and  on  the 
page  of  oriental  romance  than  in  the  streets  of  Pera.  We  could 
not  avoid  noticing  that  which  all  travellers  allude  to,  —  the  mul- 
titude of  dogs  in  the  street.  They  are  only  the  frames  of  dogs ; 
for  such  skeletons  I  never  before  looked  at.  They  are  mostly  of 
a  dirty-red  color,  and  are  the  ugliest-looking  specimens  of  the 
canine  tribe  that  can  be  imagined.  At  one  spot  I  reckoned  thirty- 
seven.  They  were  all  lying  down,  and,  to  pass  along,  you  have  to 
accommodate  their  slumbers,  and  give  them  a  wide  berth.  We 
reached  Pera,  the  residence  of  the  ambassadors  during  the  winter 
months.  It  is  rather  better  laid  out  than  Galata,  but  struck  us 
as  a  miserable  place.  At  length  we  came  to  a  burying-ground, 
densely  shaded  with  cypresses.  Here  was  a  cafe  with  grounds 
laid  out  in  front,  and  tables  under  the  shade  of  cypress  and  other 
trees.  We  took  our  places,  and  called  for  coffee,  which  was 
nanded  to  us  in  small  cups  of  china,  which  held  no  more  than 
egg-cups.  The  prospect  extending  before  us  was  glorious,  and 
a  great  many  persons  were  there,  apparently  enjoying  it  as  much 
as  we  did. 

23* 


282  sultan's  new  palace  —  gulls. 

On  our  return,  we  descended  the  hill,  and  came  back  by  To- 
phana,  so  as  to  see  the  gateway  of  the  new  palace  which  is  build- 
ing for  the  Sultan.  It  is  a  very  noble  building  of  white  marble, 
with  extensive  wings,  faces  the  Bosphorus,  and  is  on  its  banks. 
The  style  is  Grrecian,  and  its  architect,  I  was  told,  is  a  Greek. 
The  grand  gate  of  entrance  at  the  west  is  the  most  elaborate 
piece  of  marble-work  that  we  have  ever  met  with.  On  our  way, 
we  met  an  Araba,  with  one  of  the  sultanas  and  three  other  ladies. 
The  carriage  was  an  old-fashioned  affair,  —  green,  yellow  and 
gilt.  There  were  two  black  eunuchs  on  horseback,  with  pistol- 
holsters  at  the  saddle.  The  lady  had  been  down  to  the  shore  to 
look~off  at  the  yacht. 

All  around  our  anchorage  we  were  amused  with  thousands  of 
immense  gulls,  which  were  as  tame  as  barn-yard  poultry.  They 
skimmed  close  to  our  decks,  and  swam  up  to  the  very  sides  of  the 
yacht  and  other  vessels ;  and  on  the  wharves  I  observed  hundreds 
of  them  perched  upon  the  sheds.  They  are  never  molested; 
no  gun  is  ever  allowed  to  be  fired  at  them,  and  their  lives  are  as 
sacred  as  are  those  of  the  horrid  whelps  on  shore.  The  por- 
poises, too,  in  the  harbor,  are  evidently  quite  at  home.  They 
rise  up  close  to  the  caiques,  and  fear  no  evil.  This  sacred 
regard  to  life  is  a  striking  feature  in  Mahometanism ;  and  if  it 
only  had  reference  to  the  preservation  of  humanity,  it  would  be 
a  happy  circumstance.  The  following  day,  our  friend  Mr. 
Brown  having  procured  a  firman  from  the  Sultan,  we  landed  in 
Constantinople,  to  visit  the  places  of  prime  interest  to  foreigners. 
This  firman,  and  the  guard  who  goes  with  it,  and  has  us  in  safe- 
keeping at  the  peril  of  his  life,  is  a  mightily  expensive  affair,  and 
cost  us  rather  more  than  sixty  dollars.  We  landed  in  caiques, 
and  went  off  under  the  charge  of  Mr.  Brown's  special  guard, 
who  was  one  of  the  janissaries. 

Our  first  visit  was  paid  to  the  seraglio,  on  the  grand  point. 
We  entered  through  a  desolate-looking  court,  on  one  side  of 
which  stood  a  clump  of  fig-trees,  the  only  sign  of  life  or  vegeta- 


THE    SERAGLIO.  283 

tion  to  be  seen.  At  the  entrance  into  the  seraglio  we  exchanged 
our  boots  and  shoes  for  slippers,  with  which  we  all  came  provided. 
Proceeding  up  a  long  flight  of  marble  steps,  we  followed  the 
Turkish  conductor  through  long  galleries  and  apartments,  which 
were  profusely  adorned  with  engravings,  and  among  them  I 
noticed  a  series  of  French  ones,  illustrating  the  campaigns  of 
Napoleon.  The  ceilings  of  most  of  the  rooms  were  painted  with 
flowers,  and  so  were  many  of  the  walls.  The  apartments  were 
generally  matted  with  straw,  and  many  of  them  opened  upon  the 
Bosphorus,  others  into  charming  flower-gardens.  We  were 
shown  the  most  lovely  bath-room  that  I  have  yet  seen ;  it  is 
composed  entirely  of  white  marble,  and  is  as  luxurious  a  spot  as 
can  be  contrived.  It  was  quite  a  large  room.  From  the  prin- 
cipal room  of  the  harem  there  were  a  number  of  smaller  apart- 
ments leading  ofi"  by  separate  doors.  The  furniture  was  gen- 
erally quite  plain  and  old-fashioned ;  not  a  footfall  can  be  heard 
upon  the  thick  mattings. 

Descending  a  few  steps  on  our  way  to  the  flower-garden,  we 
entered  a  secluded  retreat  overhanging  the  Bosphorus.  It  had  a 
bow-window,  marble  floor,  and  a  fountain  in  the  centre,  that  dis- 
charged and  sent  up  a  stream  which  spread  into  grateful  showers 
of  spray.  The  light  was  softly  mellowed  by  the  curtains,  and 
from  the  ceiling  a  lamp  was  suspended,  which  the  crystal  drops 
just  failed  to  reach.  All  around  were  small  jets  and  fountains 
flowing  into  the  basin  of  the  larger  one,  amid  which  were  large 
golden  fish  disporting  themselves.  One  room,  which  was  that 
devoted  to  the  Sultan,  was  very  large  and  lofty.  All  around  are 
immense  sofas,  and  on  one  side  an  imperial  couch  of  vast  size, 
covered  with  a  canopy.  Around  the  opened  door  we  were  allowed 
to  stand,  but  not  to  enter. 

The  garden  is  very  tastily  laid  out,  and  filled  with  trees, 
shrubs  and  flowers.  I  noticed  verbenas,  gilly-flowers,  geraniums, 
marygolds,  roses,  and  wall-flowers,  and  orange  and  lemon  trees 
were  very  abundant.     The  seraglio  has  not  been  occupied  for 


284  THE   HIPPODKOME. 

several  years,  except  by  the  officials  who  keep  it  in  order.  The 
reason  of  its  desertion,  although  so  supremely  beautiful,  arises 
from  the  unpleasant  associations  which  are  connected  with  the 
murder  of  Sultan  Selim ;  and  the  late  Sultan  and  his  son,  now 
on  the  throne,  have  neither  been  willing  to  reside  here.  The 
dragoman  informed  us  that  in  case  of  an  insurrection  escape 
from  this  point  would  be  impossible.  A  walk  of  some  little  dis- 
tance led  us  by  the  spot  where  Sultan  Selim  was  murdered  by 
the  janissaries. 

We  then  entered  the  Hippodrome,  which  was  built  by  the 
Roman  Emperor  Alexander  Severus.  It  is  now  probably  two 
hundred  and  fifty  yards  long,  and  one  hundred  and  fifty  wide. 
Many  of  the  monuments  which  used  to  adorn  this  place  were 
demolished  or  stolen  by  the  Crusaders,  when  they  took  Constan- 
tinople, in  1204.  Among  its  present  striking  features  I  may 
name  the  obelisk,  of  red  granite,  which  was  cut  in  Egypt  more 
than  three  thousand  three  hundred  years  ago.  Its  height  is 
sixty  feet ;  it  is  supported  by  four  bronze  blocks,  which  rest  on 
a  foundation  of  marble,  on  which  are  bas-reliefs  representing  the 
races  which  used  to  occur  in  the  Hippodrome. 

Here,  too,  is  a  brazen  pillar  of  three  serpents  entwined ;  it 
was  brought  to  Constantinople  by  Constantine  from  Delphi. 
The  heads  of  the  serpents  are  wanting,  and  it  is  said  that  one 
was  struck  off"  by  Mahomet  II.,  on  his  conquest  of  the  city.  A 
square  marble  pillar,  erected  in  the  eighth  century,  and  covered 
with  brazen  plates,  was  known  as  the  Colossus.  It  stands  at  one 
end  of  the  Hippodrome,  and  served  as  a  meta  in  the  races. 

Not  far  from  the  Hippodrome,  or,  as  it  is  now  called,  the 
Atmeidan,  is  the  burnt  column,  which  is  ninety  feet  higli,  and 
composed  of  j^orphyry ;  but  it  has  so  frequently  suffered  from 
fires,  that  it  is  hard  to  tell  of  what  it  is  made.  It  came  from 
Athens  to  Rome,  where  it  adorned  the  great  Temple  of  Apollo, 
and  afterwards  was  brought  here  by  Constantine  ;  and  it  is  said 
that  he  placed  in  the  foundation  one  of  the  nails  used  in  the 


THE   SUBLIME   PORTE.  285 

crucifixion,  and  several  other  sacred  relics.  The  inscription 
placed  the  new  capital  under  the  protection  of  the  Saviour  of 
the  vrorld.  The  famous  bronze  horses  which  now  adorn  the  por- 
tico of  St.  Mark's,  at  Venice,  formerly  stood  at  the  corners  of 
this  place.  The  Atmcidan  was  the  scene  of  the  massacre  of  the 
janissaries,  and  here  they  met  with  their  fate  by  order  of  Sultan 
Mahmoud,  who  saved  his  own  life  by  this  sad  sacrifice  of  thou- 
sands of  men. 

We  now  approached  a  marble  gateway,  which  presents  nothing 
very  striking  in  its  appearance,  but  which  has  afforded  its  name 
to  the  city  and  government,  —  "  the  Sublime  Porte."  We  were 
here  shown  the  ancient  throne-room  where  the  Sultan  gave 
audience.  The  throne  is  not  very  unlike  an  old-fashioned  four- 
post  bedstead,  and  stands  in  one  corner  of  the  room.  It  is 
gilded,  and  profusely  ornamented  with  precious  stones.  The 
pillars  at  its  corners  are  thickly  studded  with  rubies,  emeralds 
and  turquoises. 

Leaving  this,  we  entered  the  library,  which  has  a  flight  of 
steps  leading  to  it.  The  room  was  dark  and  cheerless.  Our 
dragoman  opened  a  huge  genealogical  parchment,  which  contains 
the  pedigree  of  the  Sultans  and  their  portraits,  to  the  time  when 
Selim  ascended  the  throne.  The  MSS.  were  closely  arranged  on 
shelves,  guarded  by  an  open  net- work  of  iron  wire.  We  were 
shown  some  beautifully  illuminated  copies  of  the  Koran.  When 
we  were  at  the  Sublime  Porte,  we  saw  a  lad  of  about  fourteen, 
reciting  his  lessons  to  a  priest.  The  boy  went  on  with  a  gentle 
recitative  chant,  book  in  hand,  as  he  squatted  down  before  a 
stool,  accompanying  his  voice  with  a  gentle  uniform  swaying  of 
the  body  to  and  fro.  He  looked  on  us,  and  smiled,  but  by  no 
means  intermitted  his  employment. 

Our  next  visit  was  to  the  armory  in  the  ancient  Church  of 
St.  Irene.  Here  we  found  all  descriptions  of  weapons,  some  of 
which  were  of  great  antiquity.     We  were  uuch  gratified  at  see- 


286  MOSQUE    OF   ST     SCPHIA. 

ing  in  this  place  some  links  of  the  chain  used  by  Xerxes  at  the 
Hellespont. 

And  now  we  turned  towards  the  renowned  Mosque  of  Saint 
Sophia.  The  history  of  this  wonderful  structure  of  Greek  archi- 
tecture for  more  than  one  thousand  five  hundred  years  is  very 
interesting,  and  I  ^have  condensed  the  leading  features  of  its 
vicissitudes  from  Von  Hammer. 

In  the  year  325,  when  the  council  of  Nice  was  held,  Constan- 
tine  erected  the  Temple  of  Divine  Wisdom.  In  404  it  was 
burned  down.  It  was  rebuilt  by  Theodosius,  415.  In  the  fifth 
year  of  Justinian  it  was  again  burnt,  and  was  reconstructed  with 
greater  splendor  by  that  emperor.  The  building  occupied  seven 
years,  and  was  completed  in  538.  Twenty  years  after,  half  the 
dome  fell  in ;  but  Justinian  restored  it  with  an  additional  mag- 
nificence, and  at  Christmas,  568,  it  was  solemnly  reopened.  The 
walls  and  arches  were  of  brick,  and  the  marble  columns  were 
of  the  most  admirable  character;  every  variety  of  marble, 
porphyry,  granite,  white  marble  with  rose-colored  veins,  green 
marble  from  Laconia,  blue  from  Lybia,  black  Celtic  with  white 
veins,  Egyptian  granite  and  porphyry,  was  employed.  Here 
were  eight  columns  which  Aurelius  took  from  the  Temple  of  the 
Sun,  at  Balbec;  eight  green  columns  from  the  Temple  of  Diana, 
at  Ephesus  ;  and  several  others  carried  off  from  Troas,  Cyzicus, 
Athens  and  the  Cyclades.  Thus  had  the  spoils  of  idolatrous 
worship  been  devoted  to  a  Christian  church ;  and  the  dome  of 
St.  Sophia  proudly  rested  upon  the  pillars  of  the  ancient  temples 
of  paganism.  The  cross  was-  planted  upon  the  column  which 
supported  the  statue  of  Justinian.  This  cross  fell  in  the  great 
earthquake  of  1371.  In  987  a  portion  of  the  dome  was  again 
thrown  down  and  restored ;  so  that  this  magnificent  work  is  partly 
composed  of  the  first  edifice  of  Justinian,  partly  Df  the  second, 
and  then  was  renovated  by  Basilius  and  Constantine.  Mahomed 
the  Conqueror  erected  the  two  pillars  toward  the  sea,  and  one 
minaret.     Selim  II.  built  the  next  one,  and  Murad  III.  erected 


MOSQUE    OF   ST.    SOPHIA.  287 

the  other  two  minarets,  at  the  north-east.  All  history  testifies 
that  this  was  the  most  splendid  temple  of  the  Byzantine  empire. 
The  tradition  is  that  an  angel  delivered  the  plan  of  this  church 
to  Justinian,  and  also  furnished  large  treasures  for  its  completion. 
At  the  dedication,  Christmas  eve,  648,  the  emperor  slaughtered 
one  thousand  oxen,  one  thousand  sheep,  sis  hundred  deer,  one 
thousand  swine,  ten  thousand  fowls;  and,  in  addition  to  this, 
distributed  thirty  thousand  measures  of  corn  to  the  poor.  Enter- 
ing the  church,  he  said,  "  God  be  praised  who  has  thought  me 
worthy  to  complete  such  a  work.  Solomon,  I  have  surpassed 
thee  !  " 

This  mosque  is  In  the  form  of  a  Greek  cross;  three  of  its 
sides  are  surrounded  by  vaulted  colonnades  with  cupolas,  and 
the  other  side  is  the  entrance. 

At  entering,  we  had  to  put  on  slippers,  or  walk  in  our  stock- 
ings. The  walls  are  of  stone,  and  highly  polished ;  while  the 
floor  is  of  stone  and  marble,  and  covered  almost  entirely  with  mat- 
ting. The  dome  is  very  grand,  and  Its  centre  is  one  hundred 
and  eighty  feet  from  the  floor,  its  diameter  one  hundred  and 
fifteen  feet,  and  its  height  one-sixth  of  the  diameter.  The 
extreme  interior  length  of  the  mosque  is  one  hundred  and  forty- 
three  feet,  and  its  breadth  two  hundred  and  sixty-nine  feet.  The 
eight  porphyry  columns  from  the  Temple  of  the  Sun,  at  Rome, 
support  the  dome ;  and,  with  smaller  ones  of  white  marble,  the 
cupolas,  also,  on  either  side  of  the  dome.  Twenty-four  Egyptian 
granite  pillars  sustain  the  galleries.  The  columns  in  all  amount 
to  one  hundred  and  seven.  On  the  vault  of  the  dome  are  four 
immense  seraphim  in  mosaic  work,  and  beside  them  are,  in  giant 
characters,  the  names  of  Ebubekr,  Omar,  Osman  and  AH,  the 
companions  of  the  Arabian  impostor.  In  the  dome  itself  is 
inscribed  a  verse  of  the  Koran,  — "  God  Is  the  light  of  the 
heavens  and  the  earth."  These  wcvds  are  illuminated  on  the 
nights  of  the  Ramazan  by  a  large  number  of  lamps.  The  cupola 
is  lighted  by  twenty-four  windows.    The  Minler,  or  pulpit,  where 


288  MOSQUE    OF    ST.    SOPHIA. 

prayer  for  the  Sultan  is  read  on  Friday,  has  two  flags,  one  on 
each  side,  to  denote  the  triumph  of  Islamism  over  Judaism  and 
Christianity.  The  pulpit  for  instruction,  but  which  is  seldom 
employed,  was  given  by  Sultan  Murad  IV. ;  and  it  rests  on,  I 
think,  four  marble  columns. 

On  one  column  of  this  church  is  a  large  impression  of  a  hand, 
made,  it  is  said,  by  one  of  the  early  Sultans ;  and  there  is  a 
papular  notion  that  when  that  impression  disappears  the  Turk- 
ish power  will  pass  away. 

Two  large  vases,  or  fountains  of  water,  are  placed  here,  the 
gift  of  Murad  III.,  for  the  refreshment  of  worshippers.  The 
Sultan's  seat  is  elevated,  and  enclosed  in  a  gilded  lattice-work. 
Many  of  the  priests  seem  to  live  here  day  and  night,  and  we 
saw  many  of  the  Turks  reclining  at  full  length  on  the  floor,  some 
evidently  asleep.  Several  of  the  faithful  were  reciting  their- 
prayers  in  a  loud  and  monotonous  tone ;  and  their  eyes  followed 
us  in  all  our  movements,  with  no  very  benignant  expression. 
Certainly,  if  I  had  not  placed  implicit  faith  in  the  virtue  of  the 
firman,  I  should  have  had  serious  apprehensions  of  our  personal 
safety.  Never  did  I  see  men  scowl  at  their  fellow-men  as  did 
some  of  these  worthies  upon  our  ladies,  as  they  walked  through 
the  mosque.  We  left  it  with  emotions  of  thankfulness  that 
men  are  not  always  to  believe  a  lie,  and  glad  to  know  that 
the  crescent  must  surely  give  way  to  the  cross,  and  the  Crucified 
One  yet  prove  the  resistless  attractions  of  his  deathless  love  by 
drawinn;  all  men  unto  him. 


CHAPTER    XX. 

MOSQUE    OF   ACHMET MUZZEIN'S     CALL COSTUMES     OF    THE     JANISSARIES 

REV.  MR.  BENJAMIN TOMB  OF  SULTAN  MAHMOUD BAZAARS SHOP- 
PING  VISIT  TO   THE   ENGLISH  YACHT   STLPHIDE TURKISH    VISITORS 

AMERICAN      MISSIONARIES EXCURSION      TO     SCUTARI HOWLING     DER- 
VISHES   CEMETERY WEDDING BULGURLU SCENERY CHALCEDON 

A    KIOSK HOUSE     IN     WHICH     THE     LATE     SULTAN     DIED SOLDIERS 

COMING     IN     FROM     ASIA DARK    RIDE SAIL     TO     BEBEK AFFECTING 

INCIDENT VILLAGE    OF     BEBEK MISSION     PREMISES EDUCATION    OF 

BOYS    IN    MECHANICAL   ARTS PERSECUTION. —  MR.  HAMLIN ARMENIAN 

PRIEST THE    FAMILY  CIRCLE "LIGHT   ON   THE   DARK  RIVER" MISS 

LOVELL MR.    MINASIAN. 

We  continued  our  exploration  by  a  visit  to  the  Mosque  of 
Achmet.  This  building  has  one  peculiarity  :  it  is  the  only 
mosque  in  the  empire  with  six  minarets,  and  has  two  more 
than  the  famous  one  at  Mecca.  The  location  of  this  beautiful 
edifice  is  on  a  part  of  the  ancient  Hippodrome,  The  most  impres- 
sive feature,  on  entering  the  mosque,  is  the  group  of  massive 
columns  which  support  the  dome.  The  circumference  of  each  of 
these  four  columns  is  not  less  than  thirty -six  yards.  The  cupola 
of  the  great  dome  is  surrounded  by  four  half-cupolas,  each  of 
which  is  joined  by  two  entirely  round  cupolas,  which  form  behind 
the  four  enormous  pillars  the  four  corners  of  the  mosque,  which 
therefoi-e  appears  on  the  outside  to  be  composed  of  nine  cupolas. 
The  Minber  is  a  copy  of  the  pulpit  at  Mecca,  and  is  surmounted 
with  a  gilt  crown,  and  over  this  a  crescent.  This  mosque  is  the 
richest  in  Constantinople,  and  its  treasures  are  said  to  be  im- 
mense. As  we  entered  it  the  Muzzeins  were  calling  aloud  the 
hour  of  prayer  from  the  minaret. 
24 


290  JANISSAEIES  —  REV.    MR.    BEN-JAMIN. 

In  our  morning  perambulation  we  met  with  every  variety  of 
costume.  The  full-bearded  Turk,  with  the  old  turban,  which  is 
much  less  common  than  it  was  a  few  years  ago,  —  the  Fez  cap  is 
everywhere  seen ;  the  smart-looking  Armenian,  with  his  well-to- 
do  air ;  the  ill-clad  Jew ;  Albanians  in  gay  apparel ;  beggars  of  all 
ages ;  women,  with  their  white  yashmak  and  fancy-colored  robe, 
shuffling  along  in  their  yellow  boots ;  even  the  colored  women 
wear  the  yashmak. 

We  now  took  carriages  and  proceeded  to  the  gallery  contain- 
ing the  costumes  of  the  janissaries ;  and  here  we  passed  a 
delightful  hour.  The  massacre  of  this  formidable  body  was  or- 
dered by  the  late  Sultan- Mahmoud  II.,  and  it  took  place  on  the 
15th  of  June,  1823,  They  would  not  brook  the  idea  of  reform, 
and  had  so  long  been  accustomed  to  guide  the  councils  of  the 
Sultan,  and  even  change  the  person  of  the  sovereign,  that  Mah- 
moud, who  had  seen  the  murder  of  his  cousin  and  predecessor, 
well  understood  how  precarious  was  his  hold  on  the  throne,  and 
determined  to  extirpate  this  proud  hody,  or  perish  in  the  under- 
taking. The  Atmeidan  was  the  scene  of  their  slaughter,  and  the 
survivors  were  sent  to  distant  parts  of  the  empire. 

We  received  much  information,  all  the  morning,  from  our  kind 
friend  the  Rev.  Mr,  Benjamin,  a  missionary  at  this  city  from 
the  American  board.  ]Mr.  B.  married  the  sister  of  Mr.  Daniel 
B.  Allen,  one  of  our  party.  He  has  long  resided  here,  and  is 
well  acquainted  with  the  objects  of  interest. 

In  this  gallery  the  figures  are  lifelike,  made  of  wax,  and 
dressed  in  the  identical  clothing  of  the  diiferent  orders  and  offices 
of  the  body.  The  dresses  were  very  richly  adorned  with  em- 
broidery and  costly  trimmings.  Here,  too,  were  the  wax  effigies 
of  some  Circassians,  who  were  very  beautiful.  On  our  way  here 
we  passed  the  marble  mausoleum  of  Sultan  Mahmoud.  It  is  in 
a  neat  flower-garden,  and  is  surrounded  by  a  richly-gilt  iron 
fence.  In  the  interior  is  a  room  with  large  glass  chandeliers. 
The  coffin  is  covered  with  a  pall  of  red  velvet,  embroidered  with 


BAZAARS — SHOPPING.  291 

gold,  surmounted  by  the  Fez  cap  of  the  Sultan,  with  an  aigrette 
of  heron's  feathers,  looped  by  a  diamond  clasp. 

Our  steps  were  now  turned  to  the  bazaars ;  and  these  must  be 
seen  to  be  at  all  understood.  They  are  very  narrow  alleys ; 
the  buildings  having  iron  roofs  in  some  cases,  for  safety.  These 
alleys  are  a  perfect  labyrinth,  and  each  trade  has  its  own  pre- 
cincts; thus  shawls,  glass,  slippers,  rugs,  furs,  gilt  goods,  perfum- 
eries, embroideries,  silks,  are  all  to  be  found  in  difierent  localities. 
Up  and  down  the  narrow  hill-side  alley  you  must  travel  many  a 
weary  step  in  search  of  articles  ;  and  horses  belonging  to  pachas, 
and  attended  by  servants  on  foot,  are  liable  to  be  met  at  every 
other  step.  I  went  into  several  carpet  and  rug  stalls,  and  found 
their  owners  cross-legged  and  sipping  coflfee,  which  they  offered 
me  in  the  early  period  of  our  negotiations.  These  rugs  and 
carpets  are  of  exquisite  fabric,  the  Persian  being  much  finer  and 
more  compact  in  texture  than  the  Turkey  article.  The  goods 
are  all  placed  in  open  sight,  and  the  salesman  usually  sits  on  his 
stand,  and  manifests  no  anxiety  to  dispose  of  his  goods.  We 
went  to  a  diamond  merchant's,  and  certainly,  when  entering  the 
narrow  and  dirty-looking  quarters,  should  never  have  supposed 
that  such  immense  wealth  was  there  concentrated.  Vast  quan- 
tities of  precious  stones  were  exposed  to  our  examination,  and,  a 
young  man  coming  in  with  a  bit  of  paper,  one  of  the  concern 
opened  an  iron  safe>  and  I  saw  a  box  full  of  gold  coin,  in  which, 
I  suppose,  there  was  at  least  half  a  bushel.  One  thousand  sov- 
ereigns were  taken  out,  but  still  it  was  a  box  full  of  gold.  Shop- 
ping is  a  queer  business  in  this  city.  Rarely  do  you  give  more 
than  half  the  price  demanded  for  anything  offered  you  in  the 
bazaar.  No  sooner  did  we  stop  at  a  stall  than  we  were  beset  with 
a  motley  crowd  of  lookers-on,  —  Jews,  Turks,  and  boys  of  all 
ages,  —  crying.  Backsheesh.  Then  there  were  always  people 
waiting  to  carry  your  parcels,  and  Jews  drumming  up  for  the 
benefit  of  other  merchants,  who  they  know  will  suit  you  better. 
One  old  Jew,  named  Moses,  really  pleased  me  ;  he  seemed  to  be 


292  VISIT    TO    THE    ENGLISH    YACHT    SYLPHIDE. 

an  honest  fellow,  and  certainly  knew  more  about  goods  than  the 
rest  of  the  hangers-on  ;  he  really  gave  us  assistance  in  the 
purchase  of  several  articles.  Glass,  boots,  shoes,  silk  goods  and 
jevrelry,  are  all  to  be  bought  at  low  prices.  The  silversmiths  are 
chiefly  Armenians.  Almost  every  burden  is  transported  in  the 
streets  of  Constantinople  upon  men's  backs,  and  often  did  I  pity 
the  poor  creature  who  was  borne  down  nearly  to  the  earth  under 
a  weight  which  would  have  better  suited  a  horse. 

Satisfied  with  our  purchases,  tired  with  that  most  laborious 
work,  sight-seeing,  we  were  glad  to  resume  our  carriages  at 
the  entrance  of  the  bazaar ;  and  thankful  we  were  to  reach  the 
shore,  and  place  ourselves,  Turk-fashion,  on  the  cushions  of  the 
charming  caique,  which  soon  propelled  us  to  the  yacht. 

Thursday  morning,  we  made  an  early  return-call  upon  Mr. 
and  Mrs.  Leyland,  on  board  their  yacht,  the  Sylphide.  We  were 
received  with  much  courtesy,  and  spent  a  very  agreeable  half- 
hour  in  the  cabin.  We  were  then  politely  shown  over  every  part 
of  this  charming  craft.  I  think  the  internal  arrangements  of 
this  ship  hardly  allow  of  improvement.  The  saloon  occupied  by 
the  ladies  had  far  less  the  appearance  of  a  ship's  cabin  than  of 
a  parlor  in  a  well-arranged  gentlem?in's  mansion.  Books,  en- 
gravings, maps  and  works  of  art,  adorned  the  apartment ;  and  the 
dining-room  was  as  completely  adapted  for  comfort  as  it  could 
have  been  on  shore.  The  access  to  the  state-rooms  was  very 
well  contrived,  and  they  were  spacious  and  elegant.  The  arrange- 
ment, I  remember,  admitted  the  entire  suite  of  rooms  being 
opened  to  a  current  of  air  from  forward  to  aft.  In  the  saloon 
was  a  fireplace ;  the  panels  of  the  room  were  mahogany  and 
rosewood.  Elegant  book-shelves  encircled  the  base  of  the  mast, 
and  on  the  mantel  were  Maltese  stone  vases,  filled  with  flowers 
of  delicious  perfume.  Sofas  of  crimson  plush  and  comfortable 
arm-chairs  gave  a  home-like  air  to  the  apartment.  In  the  state- 
rooms the  beds  were  swung  between  the  ports,  and  more  lux- 
urious chambers   no   lady  could    desire.      The    same    comfort 


TUEKISII    AND    OTHER    VISITORS.  29'i 

extended  to  the  rooms  of  the  doctoi",  and  all  others  that  we  saw. 
The  family,  during  the  summer,  Mrs.  Leyland  told  me,  usually 
dined  upon  deck. 

The  yacht  was  weighing  anchor  and  getting  ready  for  sea, 
and  when  we  went  on  deck  we  found  a  pen  of  sheep,  just  got 
ready  for  the  voyage  ;  among  them  I  noticed  a  fine  specimen  of 
the  Gameronian  breed,  remarkable  for  its  enormous  tail.  There 
was  in  a  separate  pen  a  beautiful  deer.  He  had  become  such  a 
pet  with  all  on  board,  that  his  life  was  to  be  spared.  Playing 
by  his  side  was  a  noble  Newfoundland  dog,  the  favorite  of  his 
young  master.  On  the  upper  deck  cane-bottomed  swinging 
settees  gave  us  pleasant  seats  for  a  few  minutes  before  we  took 
our  leave  of  this  pleasant  family  circle.  More  perfect  taste  and 
elegance  I  have  never  seen  in  a  sailing  ship. 

On  our  return  to  our  steamer  we  found  the  saloon  filled  with 
visitors.  Pachas  of  all  ranks,  and  officers  of  the  Turkish  army 
and  navy,  Armenian  merchants,  English  and  French  residents, 
were  all  in  strong  force ;  and,  in  addition  to  these,  several  of  the 
American  missionaries  who  dwell  here  and  at  Bebek,  a  town  on 
the  Bosphorus,  about  five  miles  east.  We  were  delighted  to 
meet  with  the  Rev.  Messrs.  Schauffler,  Hamlin,  Dwight,  and 
their  amiable  families.  Mr.  Dwight  left  his  card  for  me,  but  I 
was  not  able  to  meet  him.  Mr.  Hamlin  was  very  anxious  that 
Mrs.  Choules  and  I  should  take  breakfast  with  him  the  next  day, 
and  kindly  off'ered  to  come  down  and  fetch  us  in  a  caique.  To 
do^  this,  he  would  have  to  leave  his  home  at  half-past  four,  so 
that  we  might  have  an  early  repast,  and  be  back  to  the  yacht  in 
time  to  see  the  Sultan  attend  mosque. 

The  Turks  appeared  to  enjoy  their  visit  on  board.  Some  of 
them  conversed  fluently  in  English  and  French.  One  pacha, 
who  had  been  educated  in  England,  had  charge  of  the  manufac- 
ture of  fire-arms  for  the  Sultan.     He  was  a  noble-looking  man. 

After  our  visitors  left,  I,  in  company  with  Dr.  Linsly  and  his 
lady  Mrs.  Cross,  Miss  Thorne,  Mrs.  Choules,  and  Mr.  Georga 
24* 


29i  EXCURSION    TO    SCUTARI  —  CEMETERY. 

Vanderbilt,  joined  our  good  friend  Mr.  Brown,  in  an  excursion  to 
Scutari.  On  landing  upon  the  Asiatic  side,  we  noticed  a  tower, 
known  as  the  Maiden's  Tower,  and  to  which  tradition  attaches  a 
story.  We  were  shown  the  kiosk  where  the  Sultan  fainted  when 
he  learned  the  death  of  a  favorite  slave,  who  had  been  poisoned. 
The  Asiatic  side  is  a  mile  and  a  quarter  from  the  city,  and  has  a 
back-ground  of  richly-cultivated  hills,  which  are  well  planted 
with  trees  of  various  kinds.  We  left  our  boat  at  the  quay,  and 
ascended  the  long  and  narrow  streets  of  Scutari.  Our  intention 
was  to  be  present  at  the  service  of  the  howling  dervishes.  Our 
janissary  went  with  us,  and,  after  threading  several  wretched 
lanes,  we  came  to  the  monastery  of  these  strange  religionists. 
Everything  looked  wretched  and  forlorn.  As  we  entered,  the 
dance  was  closing  by  the  kissing  of  hands,  and  the  exhausted 
dervishes  were  leaving  the  hall.  We  went  in ;  the  company 
was  small,  the  room  filthy,  and  a  mean-looking  divan  ran  round 
it.  On  the  walls  were  hanging  various  implements,  cords  and 
irons,  and  nothing  looked  like  adaptation  to  comfort,  but  rather 
a  manufactory  of  misery.  The  retiring  brotherhood  had  a  dried- 
up,  shrivelled  expression ;  they  were  lank,  and  seemed  worn  out. 
We  regretted  the  loss  of  the  only  opportunity  to  witness  the 
extraordinary  spectacle.  AVe  repaired  to  a  coffee-shop  near  by, 
and  seating  ourselves  on  stools  under  a  fine  spreading  tree, 
were  refreshed  with  excellent  coffee  and  fine  grapes.  Mr. 
Brown's  janissary  now  procured  us  carriages;  they  were  as  gay 
as  red  paint  and  gilding  could  make  them.  The  drivers  ran  jjy 
the  sides  of  the  carriages.  We  ascended  the  hill,  and  came 
upon  the  famous  cemetery  of  Scutari.  The  Turks  are  fearful  of 
being  ultimately  expelled  from  Europe,  and  are  very  anxious 
to  be  buried  in  Asia ;  so  that  the  cemeteries  in  Scutari  are 
much  employed  by  the  inhabitants  of  Constantinople.  The 
position  is  certainly  most  charming,  and  all  around  are  noble 
groves  of  cypresses.  We  met  with  strange-looking  vehicles  on 
the    road,    and    one    araba  was    filled  with    a    party   evidently 


WEDDING  —  SCENERY.  295 

dressed  for  a  festive  occasion.  It  was  drawn  by  four  white  oxen 
fantastically  dressed,  and  having  red  tassels  hanging  from  a 
frame  over  their  heads  and  shoulders.  One  of  our  carriages 
broke  down,  but  the  ladies  were  not  injured ;  and,  leaving  the 
driver  to  repair  his  damage  and  follow  on,  we  walked  up  the 
hill. 

We  soon  came  to  a  kiosk  where  a  wedding-feast  was  in  course 
of  celebration,  and  a  large  company  seemed  gathered.  Here  we 
saw  a  number  of  dancing  boys,  who  had  been  entertaining  the 
guests.  The  assemblage  was  breaking  up  as  we  approached.  In 
about  fifteen  minutes  more  we  ascended  the  hill  which  is  called 
Bulgurlu,  and  I  am  sure  that  we  shall  none  of  us  forget  the 
scene  that  opened  upon  our  gaze.  Two  quarters  of  the  world 
were  before  us.  The  evening  was  balmy,  and  the  atmosphere 
perfectly  clear.  The  panorama  is  unrivalled  upon  earth.  There 
was  Constantinople,  the  Golden  Horn  lying  between  her  and  her 
sister  cities.  Off  at  our  left  are  the  gardens  of  the  old  Byzan- 
tium, and  the  white  buildings  of  the  seraglio  in  their  front. 
Off  to  the  right  there  are  Pera,  Galata  and  Tophana.  There, 
are  a  hundred  mosques  and  minarets ;  between  all  this  and 
Scutari  there  is  the  Bosphorus,  its  innumerable  vessels,  and 
its  arrowy  caiques ;  all  along  its  banks  are  ranges  of  terraces 
and  rows  of  houses  of  different  colors,  each  residence  surrounded 
by  groves  and  gardens. 

As  we  stood  on  this  eminence,  off  to  our  left  lay  Chalcedony, 
so  famous  for  a  council  held  here  against  Eutyches  ;  and  again 
to  the  right,  far  aw;ay  in  the  Bosphorus,  I  could  descry  the  masts 
of  the  combined  Turkish  and  Egyptian  fleets ;  and  beyond  were 
the  dark  waves  of  the  Euxine.  The  sun,  breaking  from  his  cur- 
tains of  gold  and  purple,  cast  a  mellowed  glory  over  this  won- 
drous prospect.  For  more  than  half  an  hour  we  sat  under  the 
shade  of  a  venerable  oak,  sipping  coffee,  and  gazing  upon  scenes 
we  were  unwilling  to  leave.  Close  by  was  a  kiosk  and  a  charm- 
ing garden  ;  it  belongs  to  the  physician  of  the  late  Sultan.     He 


296  GRAPES  —  sultan's    fountain — SOLDIERS. 

is  not  in  favor,  and  is  regarded  as  one  of  a  party  opposed  to  the 
present  Sultan's  measures.  A  party  was  dining  with  him,  and 
we  saw  the  servants  carrying  in  the  covers.  Mr.  Brown,  who 
knew  the  proprietor,  obtained  permission  for  us  to  walk  in  the 
garden,  and  a  servant  gathering  grapes  presented  a  noble  clus- 
ter to  one  of  the  ladies.  The  grapes  were  the  largest  we  had 
yet  met  with,  and  exquisitely  flavored.  Close  by  our  shady  seat 
was  a  spring  of  water,  known  as  the  Sultan's  Fountain,  from 
which  we  drank  cooling  draughts  as  it  flowed  up  from  the  rock. 
Here  we  listened  to  Mr.  Brown's'  localizations  of  the  difiierent 
spots.  Directly  below  us,  and  a  little  to  our  left,  he  pointed  out 
an  insignificant  painted  wooden  house,  of  small  dimensions,  in 
which  the  late  Sultan  died.  He  was  brought  here  for  change  of 
air,  and  to  be  under  the  eye  of  his  physician.  The  air  of  the 
mountains  could  not  give  health  to  the  monarch  of  this  beau- 
tiful land,  and  he  now  lies  in  his  sumptuous  mausoleum.  We 
reluctantly  bade  adieu  to  this  mountain,  and,  resuming  our 
carriages,  had  a  long  down-hill  ride  in  the  shades  of  the 
evening.  The  roads  are  beyond  description  wretched  and  full 
of  rocks,  and  it  required  very  little  aid  of  the  fancy  to  believe 
that  they  had  never  been  repaired  since  Xerxes  travelled  over 
them.  Dr.  Linsly  preferred  the  use  of  his  legs.  As  we  went 
out  in  the  afternoon,  I  ought  to  say  that  we  met  with  a  number 
of  soldiers  coming  in  from  remote  places  as  volunteers  for  the 
army.  They  were  warlike-looking  fellows,  well  mounted.  They 
came  by  twos  and  threes,  and  I  suppose  we  passed  fifty  or  sixty. 
It  was  pitch  dark  when  we  reached  the  water-side,  and  as  we 
were  entering  our  caiques  I  lighted  my  cigar  from  the  chibouque 
of  a  solemn-looking  Turk.  A  pleasant  sail  to  the  yacht  closed 
one  of  the  most  agreeable  excursions  that  I  ever  remember  to 
have  made. 

Friday  moi'ning,  in  accordance  with  our  previous  engagement, 
Dr.  and  Mrs.  Linsly  and  Mrs.  Choules  were  all  up  at  four 
o'clock,  in  order  to  be  ready  when  Mr.  Hamlin  should  fetch  us 


AFFECTING    INCIDENT.  297 

to  Bcbek.  At  five  o'clock  he  was  alongside,  and  we  at  once 
took  our  seats  in  a  noble  caique ;  and  how  did  we  enjoy  that 
quiet  morning  on  the  beautiful  waters  of  the  Bosphorus  !  The 
exquisite  scenery  and  the  swift  sailing  were  all  new  to  us, 
Kapidly  did  we  glide  by  the  palace  of  Sultan  and  Pacha,  until, 
nearing  another,  we  were  told  of  a  heart-rending  affair  which 
was  identified  with  its  magnificence.  By  Ottoman  law,  the  male 
children  of  the  reigning  Sultan's  daughters  are  destroyed  at 
birth.  The  late  Sultan  Mahmoud  had  one  daughter,  to  whom 
he  was  ardently  attached.  When  she  arrived  at  a  marriageable 
age,  every  overture  of  marriage  was  declined  on  her  part,  on  this 
account.  At  length  her  father,  prompted  by  paternal  affection, 
gave  her  a  sacred  writing,  under  his  own  hand  and  seal,  that  if 
she  had  any  sons  they  should  be  exempt  from  the  universal  law. 
She  married,  and  three  daughters  in  succession  cheered  her 
heart.  At  length  her  royal  father  died,  and,  soon  after,  a  son 
was  born.  Never  was  the  precious  treasure  suffered  for  a 
moment  to  be  absent  from  her  sight ;  fully  aware  of  the  frail 
tenure  of  her  darling  boy  on  life,  she  vainly  hoped  by  anxious 
watchfulness  on  her  part  to  preserve  the  child.  Alas !  in  ab- 
sence of  all  other  means,  the  infant's  garments  were  poisoned, 
and,  seized  with  convulsions,  it  expired  in  her  presence.  Too 
well  she  understood  the  cause ;  delirium  followed  the  terrible 
consciousness,  and  in  ten  days  her  life  was  a  sacrifice  to  the  bar- 
barity of  this  ynurderous  custom,  and  she  died  a  maniac.  "I 
was  passing  the  Sultana's  palace,"  said  Mr.  Hamlin,  "  when  the 
prolonged  and  awful  death-wail  announced  that  the  tragic  scene 
was  over."  It  is  quite  possible  that  the  Sultan  knew  nothing  of 
this  sad  story  until  all  was  over.  The  Turks  do  not  like  innova- 
tions upon  their  national  habitudes. 

The  entire  sail  this  morning  was  past  a  long  line  of  palatial 
kiosks,  and  in  the  Bosphorus  were  innumerable  vessels  of  almost 
every  flag.  We  soon  reached  Bebek,  which  has  a  lovely  position 
in  a  small  bay ;  this  is  a  populous  village.     On  the  landing  are 


298  MK.    HAMLIN — SCHOOL    OF   THE   MISSION. 

some  magnificent  oaks,  and  trees  which  look  as  if  they  had  the 
growth  of  two  or  three  hundred  years.  Dr.  and  Mrs.  Linsly 
went  to  the  Rev.  Mr.  Schauffler's  to  breakfast,  and  we  accom- 
panied Mr.  Hamlin  to  his  abode,  which  is  romantically  situated 
midway  on  the  hill.  The  house  is  of  wood,  painted  black,  and 
is  of  large  dimensions.  It  was  purchased  of  a  Grr^ek ;  was  built 
about  fifty  years  ago,  as  an  inscription  of  date  records ;  and, 
when  I  asked  why  it  was  painted  black,  I  was  informed  that  it  was 
intended  by  its  original  proprietor  to  denote  his  humble,  submis- 
sive spirit  in  relation  to  the  government  and  people.  This  is  the 
location  of  the  educational  affairs  of  the  mission,  at  the  head 
of  which  our  friend  Mr.  Hamlin  presides.  I  went  into  the 
school-room,  which  was  spacious  and  well-arranged,  having 
the  necessary  apparatus  for  imparting  knowledge.  The  present 
number  of  pupils,  who  are  boys  of  different  ages,  up  to  twenty,  is 
fifty-four.  On  the  premises  are  shops  and  out-houses  for  mechan- 
ical purposes.  The  pupils  are  taught  to  make  stoves,  pipes, 
watering-pots,  &c,,  for  all  which  a  ready  sale  is  secured,  A 
steam-engine  of  considerable  power  is  on  the  premises,  and  a 
building  is  now  going  up  for  a  bakery,  which  is  an  operation 
that  can  only  be  carried  on  in  Turkey  under  a  special  firman 
from  the  Sultan,  This  privilege  is  allowed  to  every  embassy, 
and  has  been  recently  claimed  by  Mr,  Marsh,  our  minister 
at  Constantinople,  and  made  over  to  the  institution  at  Bebek, 
This  will  be  a  very  profitable  employment,  and  of  great 
benefit  to  the  school.  Several  of  the  pupils  have  been  sent  to 
America  to  improve  themselves  in  the  mechanical  arts,  and  on 
their  return  have  proved  eminently  useful. 

Much  persecution  is  endured  by  the  Christians,  not  so  much 
from  the  Turks  as  from  the  Catholic  part  of  the  Armenians. 
They  are,  in  almost  all  instances,  thrown  out  of  the  way  of 
obtaining  business.  Mr,  Hamlin  stated  that  the  night  before  a 
man  called  on  him  to  procure  employment ;  he  was  a  tailor.  A 
few  months  before,  he  had  united  with  the  church ;  he  bad  now 


"light  on  the  dark  river."  299 

no  means  of  supporting  his  family,  because,  since  liis  conversion, 
all  his  trade  had  been  withdrawn,  orders  previously  given  for 
clothes  were  countermanded,  and  he  could  not  support  his  family 
unless  he  could  obtain  employment  from  the  work-shops  of  the 
mission. 

I  was  exceedingly  pleased  with  the  aspect  of  the  premises. 
Everything  looked  like  good  management  and  thrift.  Mr.  Ham- 
lin is  an  extraordinary  man;  he  has  great  mechanical  talents, 
and  appears  perfectly  at  home  among  brick,  mortar,  lathes  and 
steam-engines.  The  engine  is  of  his  own  construction.  The 
interior  of  the  house  showed  that  strict  frugality  was  the  rule  of 
the  domestic  economy.  The  furniture  was  plain,  —  exceedingly 
so ;  and  I  did  wish  that  those  who  complain  about  the  luxury  of 
missionary  life  could  have  seen  this  establishment.  The  break- 
fast-table was  a  cheerful  spectacle.  Everything  was  neat,  but 
far  from  luxurious,  and  certainly  was  only  what  every  New 
England  country  pastor,  who  has  four  or  five  hundred  dollars  a 
year,  would  have  daily  on  his  morning  table.  We  had  the 
pleasure  to  meet  at  breakfast  with  an  aged  Armenian  priest,  who, 
on  account  of  his  embracing  evangelical  truth,  had  been  subjected 
to  deprivation  of  office  and  the  grossest  personal  indignities. 
He  is  now  the  faithful  and  efficient  deacon  of  a  church  in  the 
countr}"-,  and  has  a  high  character  for  piety  and  usefulness.  He 
is  a  most  venerable-looking  man,  and  would  make  a  good  study 
for  a  painter.  Mr.  Hamlin's  daughters  are  fine  girls;  they 
have  never  seen  America,  and  they  will  excite  the  interest  of 
hundreds  and  thousands  in  Christian  America  who  may  peruse 
the  most  fascinating  piece  of  female  biography  of  our  day,  in  a 
volume  just  published  by  Messrs.  Ticknor  &  Co.,  of  Boston, 
called  "  Light  on  the  Dark  River:''  The  volume  is  the  life  of 
the  late  Mrs.  Hamlin,  the  mother  of  these  dear  girls.  This  work 
is  written  by  Mrs.  Lawrence,  a  daughter  of  the  Rev.  Dr.  Woods, 
of  Andover,  and  is,  beyond  all  question,  one  of  the  most  charm- 
ing and  pathetic  productions  recently  issued  from  the  press.     I 


800  MISS    LOVELL  —  MR.    MINASIAN  —  BIEDS. 

wish  I  could  think  that  my  notice  of  this  little  volume  mio-ht 
induce  some  who  have  never  seen  it  to  at  once  do  themselves  the 
pleasure  and  benefit.  Mr.  Hamlin  has  married  again,  and  his 
lady  was  well  known  as  Miss  Lovell  to  American  Christians,  from 
her  devoted  labors  as  a  teacher  in  Turkey.  When  Mr.  Goodell 
visited  the  American  churches  a  few  months  ago,  and  made  his 
touching  appeals  to  us  on  behalf  of  Turkey,  he  often  stated  the 
successful  labors  of  this  gifted  and  energetic  lady.  I  have  no 
doubt  that  he  was  correct  when  he  said  that  probably  she  had 
done  more  good  by  her  efforts  than  most  ministers  who  had  re- 
mained at  home  in  her  native  state  of  New  York.  Seated  at  the 
table,  I  told  Mr.  Hamlin  how  deeply  I  was  interested  in  listen- 
ing to  Mr.  Goodell's  warm-hearted  and  simple  statements  about 
Miss  Lovell,  and  expressed  my  wish  to  see  her.  He  smiled,  a 
lady  blushed,  and  I  was  again  presented  to  Mrs.  Hamlin  as  the 
late  Miss  Lovell.  Long  may  these  excellent  friends  live  to  toil 
and  labor  for  the  good  of  Turk,  Greek  and  Armenian  !  The 
Great  Day  will  pronounce  their  blessedness  ! 

On  our  return,  we  were  accompanied  by  Mr.  S.  M.  Minasian, 
a  former  pupil  of  this  school,  and  who,  having  passed  some  years 
in  Anjerica,  now  carries  on  business  in  Constantinople.  He  was 
our  kind  guide  for  the  day,  and  greatly  aided  Mrs.  C.  in  obtain- 
ing articles  which  she  wished  to  purchase.  I  would  earnestly 
commend  this  gentleman  to  all  Americans  who  may  visit  Con- 
stantinople as  one  who  will  gladly  render  them  the  most  valuable 
services,  and  on  whose  knowledge,  judgment  and  integrity,  they 
may  most  implicitly  depend.  On  our  way  back  to  the  yacht  we 
saw  many  of  those  small  brown  birds  which  are  so  common  in 
the  Bosphorus,  and  are  supposed  by  the  Turks  to  be  >"  lost  spir- 
its." They  are  continually  on  the  wing,  wending  their  way  from 
the  Black  Sea  to  that  of  Marmora. 

Our  reason  for  returning  so  early  to  the  yacht  was  to  see  the 
Grand  Sultan  go  to  mosque ;  and  then,  after  that  pageant  was 
enjoyed,  we  were  to  go  through  the  Bosphorus  up  to  the  Black 


SEMINARY   AT  BEBEK  —  COURSE   OF   INSTRUCTION.    301 

Sea,  and  have  a  sight  of  the  combined   fleets  of  Turkey  and 
Egypt. 

The  Protestant  community  in  Turkey,  as  far  as  it  consists  of 
native  subjects  of  the  Porte,  is  principally  Armenian,  and  con- 
tains about  three  thousand  five  hundred.  There  are  seventeen 
churches,  and  a  large  number  of  common  schools.  The  seminary 
at  Bebek  is  designed  to  furnish  teachers,  pastors  and  translators, 
for  this  community,  and  for  the  extension  of  missionary  labor. 
The  course  of  instruction  at  Bebek  embraces  a  period  of  five 
yeai-s,  except  for  those  who  have  thoroughly  studied  their  own 
language  previous  to  entering  the  institution ;  in  such  cases  the 
term  is  lessened  one  year. 

LANGUAGES. 

Ancient  and  modern  Armenian,  Turkish,  Greek  and  English. 
The  Armenian,  Turkish  and  Greek,  are  spoken  languages  of  the 
country,  and  demand  far  less  time  than  the  English. 

MATHEMATICS. 

Arithmetic,  algebra,  geometry,  trigonometry,  measuring  heights 
and  distances,  surveying. 

PHYSICAL    SCIENCES. 

The  following  text-books  are  used  in  courses  of  experimental 
lectures : 

Olmsted's  School  Philosophy,  Smillie's  Philosophy  of  Natural 
History,  Silliman's  Chemistx-y,  Herschel's  Astronomy.  The  les- 
sons are  prepared  in  English  text-books,  but  are  recited  in 
Armenian,  in  which  language  the  lectures  are  delivered. 

INTELLECTUAL   AND    MORAL   SCIENCE,    AND    KELIGIOUS    INSTRUCTION. 

Upham's  Intellectual  Philosophy ;  Upham  on  the  AYill ;  Way- 
land's  Moral  Science ;    Paley's  Evidences ;    Philosophy  of  the 
25 


802  SEMINARY   AT   BEBEK. 

plan  of  Salvation ;  Butler's  Analogy ;  a  Theological  lecture 
Wednesday  evening ;  Sermon  on  Sabbath  morning ;  Exposition 
Sabbath  afternoon ;  Bible-class  and  Prayer-meeting  in  the  eve- 
ning. 

Geography,  Rhetoric  and  History,  are  studied  in  connection 
with  the  Armenian  course,  in  that  language. 

After  going  through  this  preparatory  course,  such  as  are  fitted 
by  talent  and  influenced  by  grace  to  undertake  the  work  of  the 
ministry  commence  theological  study  in  a  separate  and  additional 
course. 

I  have  already  alluded  to  a  manual-labor  department  in  the 
school,  and  which  has  grown  to  great  importance.  In  a  stone 
magazine,  used  by  the  Greek  proprietor  as  a  wine-cellar,  are  fitted 
up  a  japanning  oven  and  camphene  factory.  The  machine-shop  is 
in  excellent  order;  and  there  are  assaying  furnaces  and  a  black- 
smith's forge.  In  addition  there  is  now  a  bakery,  granary,' 
flour-mill  and  a  last-factory.  Thus  labor  is  furnished  for  ten  or 
twelve  persons,  and  a  large  amount  of  profitable  employment  for 
the  students,  most  materially  lessening  the  expense. 

This  course  of  operation,  it  is  probable,  will  introduce  the 
useful  arts,  with  their  modern  improvements  and  machinery,  into 
the  country,  so  as  to  raise  the  Protestants  in  public  esteem. 
Many  of  the  students  are  now  engaged  in  the  useful  arts  in  Con- 
stantinople ;  and,  if  they  succeed,  those  who  have  formerly  been 
excluded  from  labor  by  the  combined  influence  of  the'  Armenians 
—  both  Greeks  and  Catholics  —  will  attain  respectability  and 
comfort. 

Six  pupils  have  been  ordained  as  pastors  or  evangelists;  two 
licensed  to  preach.  Six  are  now  studying  theology,  and  several 
are  engaged  as  proof-readers,  translators  and  teachers. 

The  manual-labor  department  has  been  carried  on  without  any 
support  from  the  missionary  society.  J?Iany  travellers,  and,  I  am 
happy  to  say,  some  of  our  North  Star  party,  have  cheerfully 
placed  a  few  stones   in  the  structure.     English   merchants  and 


SEMINARY   AT   BEBEK — THE   SULTAN.  303 

residents  have  been  generous,  I  learn,  in  aiding  the  good  work, 
and  the  American  legation  has  always  been  kind  and  liberal.  I 
found  the  missionaries  all  unite  in  expressions  of  kind  respect 
for  the  important  services  of  Mr.  Brown  whilst  acting  as  Charge 
d'Affaires  in  Mr.  Marsh's  absence  in  Greece.  The  bakery  will 
be  fully  equal  to  ten  scholarships. 

The  editing  and  printing  of  missionary  matter  is  done  at  Con- 
stantinople. At  present  there  is  in  press,  I  learn  from  my 
valued  friend  Rev.  Mr.  Benjamin,  an  edition  of  the  New  Tes- 
tament in  ancient  Armenian ;  Flavel  on  Keeping  the  Heart ; 
Lucilla ;  Lives  of  the  Patriarchs  and  Prophets,  in  Armenian 
and  Turkish ;  a  Bible  Dictionary ;  Commentaries  on  separate 
books  of  Scripture  ;  and  a  newspaper,  in  Armenian,  will  soon 
appear.  A  boarding-school  for  girls  is  established  at  Hasskerry, 
and  contains  about  thirty  pupils. 

It  gives  me  great  happiness  to  bear  my  testimony  to  the  sense 
which  I  cherish  of  the  vast  importance  of  these  labors,  and  the 
fidelity  and  zeal  in  which  they  are  evidently  discharged. 

Mr.  Hamlin  has  just  put  up  an  electric  telegraph  in  the  Sul- 
tan's palace,  and  during  his  engagement  had  much  opportunity 
to  see  and  converse  with  the  Sultan,  of  whom  he  speaks  as  being 
mild  and  gentlemanly,  conversing  fluently  in  French,  and  toler- 
ably well  in  English. 

Mr.  and  Mrs.  Benjamin  have  been  seventeen  years  at  Athens 
and  Smyrna,  and  now  reside  in  Constantinople.  They  have  a 
chapel  in  their  own  house,  and  service  three  times  on  the  Lord's 
day,  in  Armenian.  Mr.  Benjamin  preaches,  and  is  occupied  in 
translating  books. 


CHAPTER  XXI. 

9   XTAN    GOING     TO     MOSQUE CAIQUES A    STEAMBOAT    CHABTEEED — ^EX- 

CUESIOIT  UP    THE    BOSPHOKUS  —  E0KOPEAN    BANK TURKISH   AND    EGYP- 
TIAN   FLEET STMPLEGADES BLACK    SEA ASIATIC    COAST LAND   AT 

KANDAII RETURN     TO    TACHT DEPARTURE    FROM     CONSTANTINOPLE 

VOYAGE     TO     GIBRALTAR ARRIVAL     AT     THE     ROCK APPEARANCE     OF 

ROCK    AND    TOWN THE    METHODIST     CHAPEL REV.    W.    H.    BIDWELL 

STREETS   AND    MARKETS SHOPS   AND    GOODS EXCURSION    TO    THE    ROCK 

ENGLISH     OFFICERS ST.      GEORGE'S     HALL ST.    MICHAEL'S     CAVE 

MONKEYS DINNER  AT    MR.    SPRAGUE'S HISTORICAL    NOTICES SMUG- 
GLERS    SHOT PROFFERED     HOSPITALITIES EXCURSION     TO     THE     CORK 

■W^OODS "CHARLEY,"     THE    MOORISH     MERCHANT DINNER    "WITH     THE 

FORTY-FOURTH   REGIMENT VISITORS    TO   THE    YACHT. 

Friday  is  the  Turkish  Sabbath ;  and  every  Friday  the  Sultan 
goes  in  state  to  some  one  of  the  numerous  mosques  of  the  city 
or  neighborhood.  On  this  occasion  he  had  selected  the  mosque 
in  Galata,  close  by  our  yacht.  At  about'  ten  we  saw  the  im- 
perial caiques  going  up  to  the  marble  palace  to  fetch  the  Sultan 
and  his  suite.  All  the  ships  of  war  and  vessels  of  commerce 
were  richly  decked  with  flags.  An  Austrian  steamer  was  one 
mass  of  colored  bunting.  The  North  Star  was  gayly  caparisoned 
for  the  day,  and  looked  finely.  I  have  never  seen  so  much 
river  show  and  display,  since  the  4th  November,  1825,  when  the 
Erie  Canal  celebration  came  off  at  New  York. 

Presently  there  is  the  loud  booming  of  cannon  from  the 
Seraglio  Point,  and  it  is  echoed  and  reechoed  from  Scutari  and 
the  hills  back  of  the  cities.  Finer  echoes  I  never  listened  to. 
Hark !  there  are  ten  thousand  reverberations,  for  every  ship  in 
the  Bosphorus,  and  every  fort  in  Stamboul  is  discharging  guns 
in  rapid  succession. 


SULTAN    GOINU    TO    MOSQUE.  ■   305 

There  come  the  caiques,  —  four  of  the  most  graceful  creations 
of  art  that  I  ever  saw.  They  are  very  long  —  at  least  eighty 
feet,  —  and  are  in  color  of  white  and  gold,  each  with  beautiful 
canopies  in  the  stern.  They  move  with  vast  rapidity,  impelled 
by  twenty-eight  oarsmen.  In  the  third  caique  sat  the  Sultan  on 
his  throne,  under^  velvet  canopy ;  and  with'  our  glasses  we  saw 
him  distinctly.  Our  yacht  gave  a  salute  of  twenty-one  guns  as 
the  procession  passed.  On  arrival  at  the  wharf  the  oars  were 
uplifted,  and  the  shore  lined  with  troops.  The  Sultan  lands, 
and  several  of  our  party  in  a  caique  are  close  by,  and  see  him 
distinctly.  He  is  in  European  dress,  —  black  frock-coat  and  pan- 
taloons, —  and  wears  the  Fez  cap.  As  he  steps  on  shore,  every 
one  bends  lowly  and  gracefully  in  salutation.  He  walks  through 
the  ranks ;  the  noise  of  cannon  ceases,  and  the  crowd  quickly 
disperses  as  he  enters  the  house  of  prayer.  A  richly-dressed 
and  very  able  band  received  the  Sultan  as  he  landed.  Several 
boats  kept  around  the  aquatic  procession,  and  I  noticed  men 
holding  up  papers  in  their  hands ;  and  to  these  boats  two  or  three 
smaller  ones  of  the  royal  cortege  immediately  pulled  up,  and 
took  the  papers.  These  were  petitions  to  the  Sultan,  and  which 
are  never  rejected.  Every  one  has  the  right  to  appeal  to  the 
Sultan  in  this  way. 

Mr.  Vanderbilt  did  not  like  to  risk  taking  the  North  Star  up 
the  Bosphorus,  as  it  is  so  thronged  with  all  descriptions  of  ves- 
sels.; and  he  deemed  it  best  to  charter  a  small  steamboat  for  our 
party.     This  was  done  at  an  expense  of  about  sixty  dollars. 

As  the  Sultan  was  again  entering  his  caique,  after  short  ser- 
vices at  the  mosque,  we  moved  slowly  and  bore  off,  that  we 
might  again  see  the  ruler  of  this  great  people.  He  returned 
with  less  splendor,  —  only  with  two  caiques.  He  sat  under  a 
red  umbrella,  and  we  could  see  him  to  advantage.  He  landed 
at  the  new  palace,  which  is  nearly  finished,  and  we  went  on. 

Far  up   on  the  high  hill  on  our  left,  commanding  a  glorious 
prospect,  stands  the  military  school.     The  Seraglio  Point  and  the 
25^ 


806  EXCURSION    UP    THE    BOSPHOE.US. 

Grolden  Horn  are  now  left  behind.  Our  boat  hugs  the  European 
side,  so  that  with  our  opera-glasses  we  can  note  every  object  of 
interest ;  but  it  is  impossible  to  do  justice  to  the  surpassing- 
beauty  of  this  ever-changing  panorama.  '  Long  rows  of  marble 
palaces,  with  gardens  of  great  beauty,  kiosks,  mosques,  high 
hills,  clothed  with  the  richest  shades  of  foliage,  and  thickly 
sprinkled  with  princely  residences,  meet  the  eye  at  every  glance 
on  either  side.  There  is  a  noble  palace,  built  by  the  late  Sultan 
for  his  son,  now  on  the  throne.  When  Mahmoud  died,  it  was 
not  quite  finished,  — lacked  the  upper  story  ;  in  accordance  with 
the  custom,  it  has  never  been  resumed,  is  fast  going  to  decay, 
and  one  of  these  days  it  will  be  hinted  that  it  looks  badly,  and 
a  lighted  coal  will  be  quietly  dropped  into  its  apartments,  and  it 
will  disappear.  It  is  of  wood,  as  a  prejudice  exists  against 
stone;  and  the  new  palace,  now  in  course  of  erection,  is  the  only 
marble  one  in  the  empire.  We  now  approached  the  palace  of 
Mahmoud,  which  had  been  unoccupied  since  his  death.  Just 
beyond  is  a  long  range  of  columns  shooting  up  from  low  buildings, 
which  resemble  cupolas.  These  are  chimneys  of  the  imperial 
kitchens,  and  next  is  a  fine  edifice,  which  is  the  Sultan's  present 
home,  and  into  which  he  removed  just  before  his  lather's  death. 
And  now  come  the  abodes  of  vizier,  pacha  and  state  officers ;  the 
palace  of  the  late  Sultana  Valide,  the  mother  of  the  present 
Sultan ;  those  of  his  sisters ;  and  here  are  the  brazen  gates  of 
that  unfortunate  one  whose  sad  end  I  have  alluded  to  before. 
Now  we  are  on  a  point  of  the  Bosphorus  of  great  historical 
interest.  These  towers  of  Europe  and  Asia  mark  the  spot  where 
Darius,  and  afterwards  the  Crusaders,  crossed  the  Bosphorus, 
Here  are  the  fortifications  built  by  the  latter.  On  the  bold 
European  cliff  stands  the  tower  built  by  Mahomed  II.,  when,  as 
conqueror,  he  entered  Europe.  The  strait  is  very  narrow,  and 
the  view  both  up  and  down  the  water  gloriously  beautiful.  High 
projecting  clifis,  not  rough  and  cragged,  but  clothed  with  soft 
verdure ;    hills    and   slopes   dotted   with   imposing   habitations ; 


UKKISH   AND    EGYPTIAN   FLEET  —  K  AND  ALL        307 

smiling  villages  adorned  with  cypress,  plane  and  olive  trees, 
make  up  the  prospect. 

About  two  miles  from  the  Black  Sea  we  came  to  a  fine  bay,  in 
which  lay  at  anchor  the  noble  fleet  of  Turkey  and  Egypt.  They 
are  exceedingly  fine-looking  ships ;  some  of  them  are  of  immense 
size.  One  —  the  Mahmoud  —  is  a  four-decker,  and^  looks  as 
large  as  any  ship  I  ever  saw.  They  all  have  the  old  square- 
built  sterns,  with  side  galleries.  I  reckoned  about  thirty  ships, 
and  there  were  probably  not  fewer  than  ten  or  twelve  steamers, 
and  a  vast  number  of  tenders  and  other  craft  engaged  in  sup- 
plies for  the  fleet. 

Not  far  from  this  spot  is  Therapia,  a  most  charming  retreat, 
where  the  foreign  ministers  reside  in  the  summer.  Here,  I  sup- 
pose, was  Mr.  Marsh,  of  whom  we  saw  nothing  during  our  stay. 

The  light-house  on  the  mouth  of  the  Bosphorus,  at  the  entrance 
to  the  Black  Sea,  was  the  limit  of  our  excursion  east.  Just 
opposite  to  it  are  the  Symplegades  of  mythology.  We  now 
came  down  the  Asiatic  side,  passing  the  fortress  of  Riva;  the 
cape  of  Jum  Burun;  Poiras,  —  which  fortress  stands  opposite 
to  the  European  castle  ;  Anatoli ;  the  Giant's  Mountain,  which  is 
the  loftiest  elevation  on  the  Bosphorus ;  Unkiar  Skelessi,  or  the 
landing  place  of  the  Sultan,  and  once  a  fiivorite  resort  of  royalty, 
but  now  the  site  of  a  paper-mill ;  Begkos,  a  pretty  village  ;  Sul- 
tania,  a  pleasant  bend  of  the  Bosphorus;  Kandali,  the  most 
beautiful  place  on  the  Asiatic  side,  and  renowned  for  the  purity 
of  the  air.  Here  we  all  landed,  so  that  the  entire  party  might 
claim  to  have  been  in  Asia.  We  were  politely  invited  to  visit  a 
mansion  on  the  hill,  owned  by  a  French  gentleman,  but  our  time 
would  not  permit.  We  took  cofi'ee  at  the  little  cafe  on  the  dock. 
I  never  saw  a  place  where  I  so  longed  to  tarry,  and  enjoy  the 
unnumbered  beauties  of  the  scene.  Every  word  that  Murray 
says  is  true.  "  Vain  is  the  attempt  to  describe  the  separate  or 
collective  beauties  of  hills  and  dales ;  of  bights  and  bays ;  of 
meadows  and  springs;  of  dark  cypress  groves  and  light  rose- 


308       DEPARTURE  FROM  CONSTANTINOPLE. 

beds ;  of  roaring  currents  and  flowing  streams ;  of  golden  kiosks 
and  marble  fountains ;  this  confusion  of  flag-bearing  masts  and 
towering  minarets ;  of  cupolas  floating  in  air,  and  caiques  cleav- 
ing the  waves."  From  the  eminence  jou  can  see  the  Euxine 
and  the  Sea  of  Marmora  by  only  turning  your  head.  Again  in 
our  little  steamer,  we  pass  by  several  charming  places,  as  Beg- 
ler-beg,  Istawros  and  Kusghundschik,  which  is  hard  by  Scutari ; 
and  at  five  o'clock  we  were  on  board  the  North  Star,  having 
spent  a  day  which  is  ever  to  be  remembered  by  us  with  pleasure 
in  future  life. 

We  now  prepared  for  our  departure,  and  Mr.  Giacombo,  our 
kind  and  indefatigable  agent,  was  busy  with  us  putting  our  sup- 
plies on  board.  At  sis  o'clock  we  took  leave  of  Mr.  and  Mrs. 
Brown,  to  whose  friendly  attentions  we  were  much  indebted 
during  our  short  stay. 

We  left  Constantinople  August  26,  at  eight  o'clock  p.  m.,  with 
the  finest  weather. 

In  the  Sea  of  Marmora  we  passed  Mr.  Leyland's  yacht,  which 
sailed  forty  hours  before  us.  Our  back  course  lay  to  the  north 
of  Tenedos,  and  we  steered  between  that  island  and  Lemnos,  and 
made  for  the  Doro  Straits,  leaving  St.  Estraite  and  Skiros  to 
the  northward.  Passing  the  Sea  of  Candi,  we  steered  between 
Zea  and  Macronisi,  and  directed  our  course  for  St.  Angelo  and 
Matapan.  Never,  perhaps,  was  weather  more  propitious  than 
we  now  had  it,  and  our  progress  was  rapid.  On  the  28th,  we 
observed  divine  service.  On  the  29th,  at  two  p.  m.,  we  passed 
Cape  Passaro  and  the  rocky  shore  of  Sicily  near  Cape  Scalambra, 
a  few  villages  dotting  the  coast.  The  30th,  we  made  the  island 
of  Pantellaria,  known  to  the  ancients  as  Cossyra ;  it  is  about 
thirty  miles  in  circumference,  and  is  of  volcanic  origin.  Passing 
to  the  north  of  this  island,  we  steered  up  to  Cape  Bon,  on  the 
coast  of  Africa ;  and  here  the  weather  became  too  intensely  hot 
for  comfort,  and  coats  and  neckcloths  were  oppressive. 

Heading   north    and   by  west   for  Cape  Bianco,   we    thence 


ROCK    OF    GIBRALTAR.  311 

steamed  westei  .y,  and  at  noon  on  31st  we  were  off  Cape  Mavera 
light,  having  passed  the  island  of  Galita,  and  made  a  west  course 
along  the  coast  of  Algiers,  which  we  passed  September  1st,  at 
noon,  the  weather  hazy,  so  that  we  only  saw  the  outline  of  the 
shore.  At  twelve  o'clock,  on  the  2d,  we  were  just  north  of  the 
small  island  or  rock  of  Alboran,  and  in  the  evening  there  came 
up  a  terrible  thunder-storm,  accompanied  by  a  gale  from  the 
westward.  Our  ship  behaved  well ;  but  it  was  decidedly  a  rough 
night,  and  the  breeze  came  on  us  charged  with  the  cold  air  of  the 
Atlantic,  and  felt  very  different  from  the  atmosphere  we  had 
enjoyed  for  the  past  month.  We  lay  off  the  harbor  of  Gibraltar 
at  half-past  twelve,  thus  performing  our  voyage  from  Constant!-' 
nople  to  the  llock  in  seven  days ;  a  thing  which  has  never 
before  occurred,  —  yet  we  only  used  two  boilers,  and  had  the 
power  to  have  made  the  passage  in  five  and  a  half.  The  distance 
was  one  thousand  eight  hundred  and  forty  miles. 

All  ships  coming  from  the  Levant  are  compelled  to  undergo  a 
quarantine.  We  were  kindly  limited  to  one  day,  and  during 
that  time  suffered  to  commence  coaling.  We  had  abundant 
opportunity,  during  this  quiet  time,  to  notice  the  position  of  the 
celebrated  town  and  its  circumjacent  country. 

At  first  sight,  we  can  hardly  believe  that  the  rock  is  connected 
with  the  main  land  ;  but,  on  inspection,  there  is  seen  a  long,  low, 
candy  bar,  which  unites  it  to  Spain,  and  is  well  known  as  the 
jeutral  ground.  The  rock  is  two  and  three-quarter  miles  in 
length,  and  about  three-quarters  of  a  mile  wide.  The  side 
towards  the  Mediterranean  is  almost  perpendicular,  and  so  is  the 
north  side.  The  side  towards  the  harbor  has  a  very  gentle 
ascent  from  the  water,  and  then  at  once  becomes  precipitous. 
At  the  south  end  of  the  rock  are  two  different  planes  of  the 
formation ;  the  upper  one  is  called  Windmill  Hill ;  the  most 
elevated  spot  above  these  planes  is  called  O'Hara,  after  the  gen- 
eral of  that  name.  It  is  above  the  lower  plane  that  the  44th 
regiment  is  in  barracks.     The  telegraph  station  is,  I  think,  \'ery 


812  GIBRALTAR. 

nearly  at  the  middle  of  the  rock.  It  is  remarkable  that  though 
the  side  is  so  inclined,  and  almost  precipitous,  yet  the  water 
rarely  reaches  the  town,  even  after  violent  rains.  The  mountain 
is  full  of  caverns,  and  from  these  the  water  is  discharged  by 
unknown  caverns  into  the  sea.  From  the  rock  there  is  a  pros- 
pect which  includes  four  kingdoms ;  —  in  Europe,  Spain ;  in 
Africa,  Morocco,  Fez  and  Barbary. 

The  scenery  of  the  bay  is  delightful,  and  St.  Roque  stands  on 
a  hill  at  the  foot  of  a  mountain  range  which  stretches  away 
north  and  west.  Further  east  are  the  lofty  mountains  of  the 
Sierra  de  Ronda.  West  of  the  rock,  and  at  the  head  of  the 
bay,  is  the  charming  white-looking  town  of  Algeciras.  This  was 
for  a  long  time  the  Moorish  key  to  the  possession  of  Spain,  but 
it  was  captured  by  Alonzo  XI.,  in  1844,  after  a  protracted  siege 
of  nearly  two  years.  It  is  a  neat  town,  with  about  fifteen  thou- 
sand inhabitants,  and  there  is  frequent  intercourse  between  it 
and  Gibraltar,  and  boats  are  continually  crossing  the  bay,  —  a 
distance  of  less  than  ten  miles. 

Looking  off  from  the  bay,  there  are  the  lofty  mountains  of 
Barbary,  which  bear  such  a  marked  resemblance  to  Gibraltar 
that  it  has  been  supposed  that  a  separation  has  been  produced  by 
3ome  great  convulsion  of  nature  in  former  ages.  This  theory 
■las  been  supported  by  the  circumstance  that  monkeys  are  found 
in  great  numbers  upon  the  rock,  and  in  no  other  part  of  Europe. 
There,  too,  as  we  look  away  at  Africa,  is  -the  island  fortress  of 
■^euta,  which  belongs  to  Spain,  and  where  some  of  the  Cuban 
prisoners  are  still  confined.  On  entering  the  harbor,  we  found 
that  our  expected  supply  of  coals  from  Wales  had  arrived  in 
three  Bristol  schooners.  Mr.  Sprague,  the  United  States  consul, 
came  to  us,  and,  in  the  kindest  possible  manner,  proffered  his 
services,  and  placed  his  mansion  at  our  disposal.  During  the 
dirty  operation  of  coaling,  most  of  our  party  took  up  quarters 
at  the  Club-house. 

September  4  was  a  charming  day,  and,  it  being  the  Sabbath,  I 


KEV.  W.  H.  BIDWELL  —  MARKETS.  818 

felt  desirous  to  visit  the  Methodist  chapel,  of  which  a  beloved 
friend,  fellow-townsman,  and  fellow-collegian,  had  once  been 
pastor,  and  fell  at  his  post,  a  victim  to  the  yellow  fever,  in  the 
year  1828.  We  made  a  little  party,  and  found  the  chapel.  It 
in  a  very  neat  edifice,  and  the  ofiiciating  clergyman  delivered  an 
excellent  sermon.  The  principal  part  of  the  audience  was  com- 
posed of  soldiers,  who  were  accompanied  by  their  ofiicers,  and 
appeared  very  devout  and  attentive,  —  as  they  might  be,  while 
listening  to  such  admirable  instruction.  I  had  the  melancholy 
pleasure  of  standing  by  the  marble  mural  tablet  which  records 
the  faithful  services  and  the  early  death  of  the  Rev.  William 
Barber.  On  returning  to  the  hotel,  I  enjoyed  the  unexpected 
pleasure  of  again  meeting  with  my  valued  friend  the  Rev.  Mr. 
Bidwell,  who  had  parted  from  us  in  Paris  on  his  tour  through 
France  and  Spain,  which  he  spoke  of  as  fatiguing;  and  very  evi- 
dently he  had  toiled  hard  and  sufiered  much  in  crossing  the 
Pyrenees.  He  was  to  depart  that  evening  for  Cadiz,  by  the 
steamer ;  and  since  m}^  return  I  have  read  with  great  interest 
the  capital  letters  which  he  has  furnished  to  the  New  York 
Evangelist,  —  a  paper  owned  by  him,  and  conducted  in  a  man- 
ner which  renders  it  a  welcome  visitor  in  every  house  it  enters. 

Monday  was  a  busy  day,  and  I  made  a  general  survey  of  the 
place.  The  population  of  Gibraltar,  inclusive  of  the  garrison,  is 
more  than  twenty  thousand.  The  landing  is  on  a  good  dock, 
outside  the  gates ;  and  here  is  a  capital  fish  and  fruit  market,  in 
which  we  made  daily  observations.  Every  description  of  fruit 
was  in  profusion  and  perfection.  Peaches,  plums,  grapes,  lem- 
ons and  pomegranates,  were  all  fine,  but  no  such  nectarines  as  we 
found  at  Malta,  and  which  were  very  superior  to  any  I  have  ever 
seen  in  England,  France,  or  in  the  United  States. 

On  passing  the  gates,  where  the  custom-house  officers  were 
very  polite,  we  came  into  a  square,  where  the  soldiers  were  quar- 
tered in  considerable  numbers ;  and  their  fine,  athletic  figures, 
healthy  appearance  and  neat  uniform,  presented  quite  a  con- 


314  MAIN   STREET  —  ALAMEDA. 

trast  to  the  Turkish  soldiery.  We  now  came  into  the  main  street, 
which  is  long  and  rather  narrow,  and  full  of  shops.  Many  of 
these  are  well  supplied.  This  is  a  free  port,  and  goods  are  con- 
sequently quite  reasonable.  To  the  left  of  the  rock,  and  above 
the  town,  stand  the  remains  of  an  old  Moorish  castle,  built  in 
the  eighth  century,  and  which  is  supposed  to  be  the  earliest  trace 
of  occupancy  now  left  in  Gibraltar.  Far  to  the  right,  and  higher, 
stands  the  signal-post,  from  which  vessels  on  approach  are 
reported  to  the  town.  Above  the  densely-built  town  are  sta- 
tioned the  barracks;  and  there  is  the  governor's  house,  with  its 
fine  garden,  and  just  below  lies  the  Alameda.  What  a  strange 
medley  of  characters  the  streets  present !  Here  are  white-tur- 
baned,  white-trousered  and  pctticoated  Moors;  keen-bargaining, 
black-eyed  Jews ;  swarthy  Spaniards ;  bright-tartaned  Highland- 
ers ;  gayly-dressed  English  officers,  beautiful  women  in  mantillas, 
and  red-coated  soldiers,  at  every  step.  The  streets  are  all  alive 
with  a  busy,  bustling  population. 

Our  party  are  watched  closely  by  the  shop-keepers,  and  a 
good-looking  Jew  has  caught  the  ladies;  we  fill  his  shop,  and 
even  crowd  his  back-room.  The  shelves  and  counters  are  loaded 
with  Spanish  and  Moorish  curiosities.  Andalusian  scarfs,  em- 
broidered table-covers,  Malaga  figures,  costumes,  cushions,  slip- 
pers, vases,  coral,  silks,  old  laces,  china,  and  I  know  not  what 
else,  were  the  sore  temptations.  One  thing  I  do  know,  that 
before  the  ladies  left  they  had  well-nigh  emptied  the  store. 

But  we  had  an  engagement  at  the  consul's,  and  the  party 
gathered  there  by  appointment.  The  plan  was  to  see  the  rock, 
and  a  number  of  English  officers  were  at  Mr.  Sprague's  to  escort 
the  ladies.  Mules,  donkeys  and  horses,  were  in  front  of  the  man- 
sion in  great  force,  and  on  a  burning  day  some  thirty  persons 
made  the  ascent. 

Indisposition  hindered  me  from  going,  but  I  give  the  narrative 
as  it  was  given  me,  on  the  return  of  the  pilgrim  band.  Tlie  ofii- 
cers  were  Messrs.  Brown,  Higgins,  Turner,  Thornhill,  and  others 


EXCURSION   TO    THE   TOP    OP   THE   ROCK.  315 

whose  names  I  cannot  now  recall.  The  cavalcade  I  watched  as 
it  slowly  wound  up  the  hill,  and  I  last  saw  the  party  on  the 
winding  ascent  leading  to  the  excavations,  and  then  retraced 
my  steps. 

The  party  was  greatly  delighted  with  the  galleries  cut  in 
the  rock,  which  are  wide  enough  for  mounted  cannon  to  be 
dragged  through  with  ease,  and  receive  light  from  port-holes  cut 
in  the  sides,  through  which  the  murderous  cannon  are  pointed. 
Leaving  the  mules  and  horses  to  join  them  at  the  summit,  the 
ladies  and  gentlemen  ascended  a  spiral  staircase,  which  led  them 
to  St.  George's  Hall,  which  is  a  large,  circular  apartment,  with  a 
vaulted  stone  roof;  the  sides  and  flooring  are  of  the  solid  rock, 
and  from  this  apartment  several  large  cannon  shoot  out  of  the 
embrasures.  Stepping  upon  one  of  them,  our  friends  looked 
down  from  this  dizzy  elevation  upon  the  beach  and  harbor,  and 
obtained  a  noble  view  of  the  adjacent  country.  The  town  lay 
beneath  them  as  an  extended  map,  and  every  house  and  garden 
was  clearly  defined.  The  African  coast  appeared  in  all  its 
beauty,  and  the  vast  Abyla  lifted  its  dark  form  against  the  bright 
back-ground  of  a  tropical  sky. 

After  a  protracted  enjoyment  of  this  exquisite  prospect,  the 
march  was  resumed,  until  the  signal  station  was  reached ;  and 
here,  through  the  thoughtful  attention  of  the  officers,  a  pleasant 
lunch  had  been  provided.  Here  the  horses  and  other  animals 
were  waiting,  and  again  put  into  requisition ;  and  a  circuitous 
path  led  to  St.  Michael's  Cave,  the  entrance  to  which  is  through 
a  fissure  in  the  side  of  the  rock,  barricaded  with  boards.  This 
is  a  large  and  lofty  circular  room ;  from  the  roof  immense  sta- 
lactites are  hanging,  which  reflected  the  light  shining  from  the 
pine-knot  torches.  The  ground  was  very  damp,  and  even  wet. 
On  the  mountain  sides  are  vast  numbers  of  goats,  which  browse 
the  scanty  herbage.  The  eastern  side,  which  is  inaccessible  from 
its  perpendicularity,  is  the  safe  home  of  the  monkey  population, 
who  are  in  quiet  possession  of  their  fastnesses,  and  are  never 
26 


316         DESCENT   FROM    THE    ROCK  —  MR.    SPRAGUE. 

pennitted  to  receive  molestation.  Dui'ing  the  prevalence  of  a 
Levanter,  or  north-east  wind,  they  occasionally  appear  upon  the 
rock.  The  party  was  gratified  by  observing  one  whose  large  size 
and  grizzled  head  denoted  him  as  a  patriarch  of  his  tribe. 

The  path  down  the  mountain  was  delightful.  The  most  charm- 
ing scenery  discovered  itself  at  every  turning  of  the  serpentine 
pathway,  in  which  were  some  places  so  narrow  as  to  afford  no 
more  than  necessary  foothold  for  a  single  horse,  and  a  false  step 
of  the  animal  would  have  involved  the  certain  death  of  its  rider. 
The  return  was  through  the  charming  Alameda,  after  passing  the 
pleasant  residence  and  gardens  of  the  governor,  and  the  Jews' 
burying-ground. 

On  reaching  the  town,  we  all  met,  at  four  o'clock,  at  Mr. 
Sprague's,  where  he  had  prepared  an  elegant  dinner.  The  table 
was  covered  with  every  luxury  that  the  climate  furnishes.  The 
game  and  fruits  were  in  rich  profusion,  and  the  dessert  was  prin 
cipally  furnished  from  his  country  house  and  gardens.  The  hos- 
pitalities of  this  day  are  inscribed  upon  our  memories.  Mr. 
Sprague  is  a  gentleman  of  the  most  polished  address,  resides  in 
a  noble  mansion,  and  is  the  worthy  successor  of  his  honored 
father  in  an  office  which  he  long  held  to  the  credit  of  his  coun- 
try. The  mother  of  Mr.  Sprague  did  the  honors  of  the  table 
with  great  dignity,  and  our  ladies  probably  enjoyed  the  day  as 
much  as  any  they  had  passed  upon  the  excursion.  Mrs. 
Sprague's  daughters  were  in  Boston,  on  a  visit  to  a  sister  who 
resides  there.  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Vauderbilt  earnestly  pressed  Mrs. 
Sprague  to  join  the  party  in  our  yacht,  and  allow  her  children 
the  surprise  of  a  visit ;  but  she  had  never  crossed  the  ocean,  and 
feared  to  make  the  voyage. 

The  annals  of  the  Rock  afford  interesting  passages  in  relation 
to  this  place,  so  long  in  possession  of  the  Moors.  Wrested  from 
them  by  conquest,  it  remained  in  the  hands  of  Spain,  in  spite  of 
various  attempts  on  the  part  of  the  Moors  to  regain  this  strong- 


HISTORIC   NOTICE  —  SMUGGLING.  317 

hold.  The  following  dates  may  be  useful  as  affording  a  key  to 
the  history  of  the  renowned  fortress. 

Gebal  Tarik,  the  Berber  chief,  landed  here  711.  It  was  taken 
from  the  Moors  1309.  Recaptured  by  the  Moors  1333.  Taken 
by  Guzman,  a  Spaniard,  14G2,  and  became  part  of  the  Spanish 
crown  1502.  Fortified  by  Charles  V.  1552.  Captured  by  the 
English,  under  Admiral  Rooke,  1704.  Stood  a  siege  against 
France  1783,  and  was  defended  by  Eliott.  The  force  of  this 
garrison  is  about  one  thousand  pieces  of  cannon,  and  the  fortress 
in  siege  would  require  ten  or  twelve  thousand  men.  At  present 
the  garrison  is  about  four  thousand  five  hundred  men. 

A  great  deal  of  smuggling  goes  on  here,  by  men  who  carry 
articles  into  Spain.  This  morning,  September  6,  a  sad  occur- 
rence took  place ;  at  early  daylight  one  man  was  found  dead 
and  two  others  mortally  wounded,  on  the  sandy  bar  known  as  the 
neutral  ground.  They  had  been  pursued  by  the  Spanish  revenue 
force,  and  shot  whilst  attempting  to  escape.  They  were  brought 
into  the  town,  but  the  wounded  men  were  regarded  as  beyond 
cure.  These  smugglers  are  known  as  "  rock  scorpions,"  —  per- 
sons who  live  by  a  contraband  trade,  and  by  their  wits. 

The  kindness  and  attention  of  the  British  officers  was  constant 
during  our  entire  stay  in  Gibraltar,  and  Mr.  Vanderbilt  and  his 
friends  received  invitations  from  the  gentlemen  of  the  various 
regiments  in  the  garrison  to  dinners.  The  regiments  stationed 
here,  and  whose  officers  all  visited  the  yacht  and  urged  our 
partaking  of  their  hospitalities,  were  the  92nd,  44th,  13th,  30th 
and  35th. 

On  Wednesday,  7th,  several  of  the  officers  of  the  44th  regi- 
ment of  infantry,  and  of  the  Royal  Artillery,  proposed  to  the 
ladies  and  gentlemen  an  excursion  on  horseback  to  the  Cork 
woods,  a  place  famous  for  picnics,  and  situated  a  few  miles 
within  the  Spanish  dominions.  From  a  lady  who  made  one  of 
the  party  I  received  the  following  account  of  the  jaunt,  and 
thankfully  make  use  of  her  kind  communication.     The  events 


318  A    PICNIC    IN    THE    CORK    AVOODS. 

of  the  jaunt  I  heard  most  graphically  described  the  next  evening 
by  several  of  the  English  gentlemen,  and  one  bore  the  marks  of 
his  accident. 

'■^Gibraltar,  Sept.  8,  1853, 

"My  dear  Doctor  Choules:  According  to  premise,  I  pro- 
ceed to  give  you  a  brief  account  of  a  most  delightful  picnic  to 
the  Cork  wood  groves,  in  the  vicinity  of  Gibraltar,  given  us  by 
several  of  the  officers  of  H.  B.  M.'s  44th  regiment,  and  of  the 
Royal  Artillery.  The  invitation  was  kindly  extended  to  all  our 
party  (as  you  are  aware),  but  from  indisposition,  and  dread  of 
the  long  ride  on  horseback,  several  declined.  At  ten  o'clock  of 
a  rather  cloudy  morning,  we  were  equipped  in  our  travelling- 
dresses,  and  mounted  on  very  tolerable  horses.  I  was  more  fortu- 
nate than  the  rest ;  Mr.  H.,  of  the  artillery,  having  insisted 
upon  my  riding  one  of  his  horses,  a  very  beautiful  animal,  which 
had  won  the  races  at  Seville  not  long  previous.  I  gladly  availed 
myself  of  his  kind  offer,  I  can  assure  you,  and  off  we  started,  in 
great  spirits.  We  soon  reached  the  neutral  ground,  dividing 
Spain  from  Gibraltar,  and  it  certainly  looks  as  if  it  had  no  owner. 
It  is  quite  barren,  with  scarcely  a  habitation  upon  it,  about  a 
mile  in  length,  and  half  a  mile  in  width.  The  outposts,  only  a 
few  rods  apart,  soon  told  us  we  were  in  her  Spanish  majesty's 
dominions.  We  passed  a  few  miserable-looking  houses,  the 
inhabitants  eying  us  rather  suspiciously,  as  they  do  not  like  the 
English  officers  to  enter  their  territory. 

"  In  a  short  time  we  arrived  at  San  Roque,  a  quiet  little  town, 
about  two  leagues  distant  from  Gibraltar.  It  is  to  this  town  that 
the  newly-married  couples  of  Gibraltar  generally  repair  to  spend 
their  honeymoon.  Here  we  stopped  a  few  minutes  for  refresh- 
ment, and  to  readjust  our  dresses.  San  Roque,  like  other  Span- 
ish towns,  has  an  amphitheatre  for  bull-fights,  and  an  Alameda, 
or  public  shady  walk.  Our  way  now  lay  through  a  wild  coun- 
try, the  only  road  a  foot-path,  over  which  we  had  to  pass  in 
Indian  file.     I  was  told  by  Capt  B.  that  a  British  officer  had 


A    PICNIC    IN    THE    CORK    WOODS.  819 

been  attacked  and  robbed,  recently,  in  passing  over  this  very 
ground.  This  in  no  way  excited  our  fears,  our  escort  being  gal- 
lant and  powerful.  We  were  obliged  to  ford  several  small 
streams,  and  in  crossing  one  Mr.  L.'s  horse  very  coolly  laid 
down  and  took  a  refreshing  roll  in  the  water,  greatly  to  his 
discomfiture. 

"  We  soon  came  in  view  of  the  cork-trees.  They  are  a  wide- 
spread, shady  tree;  the  foliage  is  very  thick,  and  of  a  dark 
green.  There  is  nothing  particularly  remarkable  about  the  tree, 
except  the  bark,  or  cork,  which  covers  the  trunk  to  the  depth  of 
six  inches.  We  rode  through  the  wood  for  about  two  miles, 
until  we  reached  a  very  humble  country  inn,  where  the  only 
accommodation  found  was  an  empty  barn,  from  which  was  sepa- 
rated, at  one  end,  an  old  wine-shop.  We  tasted  some  of  the 
wine,  but  found  it  disagreeable.  We  expected  that  the  offi- 
cers' '  tiger,'  whom  they  had  sent  with  lunch,  would  be  here 
awaiting  our  arrival.  In  about  half  an  hour  he  made  his 
appearance,  having  had  great  difficulty  in  crossing  the  Spanish 
line.  We  dismounted,  and,  after  selecting  a  large  tree,  the  ladies 
reclined  under  its  shade,  while  the  gentlemen  provided  our 
repast.  A  large  pine  table  was  brought,  also  a  few  rustic 
chairs,  and  we  were  soon  engaged  doing  ample  justice  to  the 
liberal  entertainment  set  out  for  us.  The  chicken  salad  was 
made  by  an  artist ;  and,  as  we  had  been  well  appetized  by  our 
long  ride,  the  viands  and  wines  were  very  grateful  to  our  hungry 
palates. 

"  We  were  disappointed  Avith  the  appearance  of  the  cork  groves ; 
ihey  were  not  so  picturesque  as  we  had  expected.  The  tree  is 
large  and  beautiful,  but  the  forest,  covering  a  vast  plain,  is 
monotonous.  After  passing  a  couple  of  hours  agreeably  enliv- 
ened by  social  chat,  and  having  cut  off  some  pieces  of  cork  as 
reminiscences,  we  set  out  on  our  return,  which  proved  to  be  full 
of  adventures.  As  we  were  going  along  at  a  smart  canter,  a 
herd  of  cattle  rushed  across  our  path.  Mr.  T.,  a  young  artillery 
26* 


320  A   PICNIC   IN   THE   CORK   WOODS. 

officer,  was  so  intent  following  one  of  the  ladies,  that  he  did 
not  porceive  the  interruption  until  he  came  in  full  contact 
with  a  large  bull,  causing  him  to  be  thrown  with  great  violence. 
Although  a  good  deal  stunned,  he  was  happily  not  much  hurt. 
His  horse,  finding  himself  at  liberty,  started  off,  and  joined  a 
drove  of  young  horses,  which  were  running  about  wild.  Then 
began  an  earnest  chase  after  the  runaway.  It  was  only  after  a 
hard  pursuit  of  two  hours  that  he  was  captured.  All  the  gen- 
tlemen joined  the  chase,  save  one  or  two  who  remained  with  the 
ladies.  In  leaping  a  ditch,  one  of  the  hunters  was  thrown, 
escaping  with  a  bruise  on  his  lip.  Another  of  the  party,  Mr.  S., 
in  crossing  a  farm,  was  denied  passage  by  the  peasants,  who 
seized  hold  of  his  bridle,  and  threatened  violence  ;  but  Mr.  S. 
nothing  daunted,  laid  about  right  and  left  with  a  heavy  riding- 
whip,  and  forced  his  way  through.  We  then  made  a  fresh  start, 
and,  as  it  was  getting  late,  took  a  short  cut  across  the  sandy  beach 
at  the  head  of  the  Bay  of  Algeciras.     We  were  galloping  away 

finely,  when  suddenly  K 's  horse,  completely  blown,  stopped 

short,  and  we  had  to  wait  a  while  until  it  recovered  itself. 

"We  now  came  in  sight  of  the  mountain  called  the  'Queen  of 
Spain's  Chair,'  facing  Gibraltar  and  the  bay.  It  is  said  that 
during  the  celebrated  siege  of  Gibraltar,  by  the  Spaniards, 
towards  the  end  of  the  last  century,  the  Queen  of  Spain,  exas- 
perated at  its  prolonged  and  successful  resistance,  seated  herself 
on  this  mountain,  and  vowed  she  would  not  leave  her  chair  until 
she  saw  the  Spanish  flag  waving  over  the  Rock  of  Gibraltar. 
This  coming  to  the  ears  of  Governor  Eliott,  the  gallant  veteran 
in  command,  he  determined  to  relieve  her  from  the  personal 
inconvenience  to  which  her  rash  vow  had  subjected  her,  and 
hoisted  the  Spanish  flag  on  the  battlements,  and  the  English 
beneath.  We  reentered  the  world-famed  fortress  of  Gibraltar 
just  before  gun-fire,  having  ridden  twenty-five  miles.  Independ- 
ently of  the  novel  incidents  of  our  excursion,  we  were  charmed 
with  the  gentlemanly  demeanor  and  courtesy  of  our  entertainers, 


"  CHARLEY."  321 

and  we  shall   long  look  back  with  pleasure  to  their  picnic  to  tho 
Cork  woods  jf  Spain.  S T ." 

In  our  skipping  expeditions  we  found  ourselves  in  a  curiosity- 
store,  kept  by  a  Moor,  who  is  known  as  "  Charley."  He  is  the 
handsomest  black  man  I  ever  saw.  His  eyes  are  wondrously 
fine,  but  his  face  has  been  tattooed  in  his  early  youth,  when  he 
was  a  slave  in  Barbary.  Cha-rley  has  been  to  Timbuctoo,  has 
been  a  great  traveller,  speaks  several  languages,  and  has  managed 
to  accumulate  some  considerable  cash.  This  man  is,  in  my  esti- 
mation, "  the  character  "  of  the  town.  His  costume  is  thoroughly 
Turkish,  or,  more  correctly,  Moorish;  parts  of  his  dress  very 
costly.  In  his  shop  we  made  many  a  pleasant  lounge,  and  ate  his 
dates,  which  he  always  brought  out.  I  think  that  our  acquaint- 
ance was  mutually  agreeable;  for  certainly  Charley,  having 
found  favor  with  our  ladies,  made  extensive  sales  to  all  our 
party,  and  I  fancy  at  leaving  he  must  have  had  possession  of 
several  hundreds  of  dollars.     His  card  of  business  is  as  follows : 

HAGGE    SAID   GUESUS, 
DEALER   IN 
MOOKISH    CURIOSITIES,  ETC.  ETC.  ETC., 

No.  7  Main-street, 

GIBRALTAR. 

A  shrewder  salesman  than  "  Charley  "  is  not  often  found.  I 
am  writing  from  an  inkstand  which  I  purchased  from  him,  and 
he  said,  "  0,  you  will  wish  you  had  bought  a  dozen  when  you 
g3t  home ! "  Well,  Charley,  you  were  right  there ;  for  my 
Moo'rish  inkstand,  with  its  castellated  sides,  is  a  general  favorite, 
and  nearly  every  one  covets  it ;  but  I  shall  keep  it  in  remem- 
brance of  as  clever  a  darkey  as  I  know.  But  he  was  far  too 
clever  to  let  me  off  with  an  inkstand,  and  sundry  other  memorials 
have  I  to  show  of  our  transactions  iu  trade.     I  wanted  some 


322       VISIT  TO  THE  GOVERNOR  —  BAND. 

large  vases.  "  Well,"  said  Charley,  "  what  you  want  such  big 
things ;  you  can't  car  them  a-ship  and  not  break."  And  he 
strongly  urged  smaller  matters ;  but  I  was  set  on  my  idols,  —  a 
pair  of  large  vases,  made  in  Barbary.  Charley  was  wrong ;  the 
big  things  reached  home  in  safety,  and  Charley,  like  his  prophet, 
was  a  false  one.  I  commend  all  travellers  to  the  Rock  to  put 
themselves  at  once  into  commercial  intercourse  with  Hagge  Said 
Guesus ;  and  I  do  not  think  that  there  is  one  of  the  North  Star 
party  who  would  not  like  to  shake  hands  again  with  "  Charley." 
I  had  nearly  forgot  to  say  that  Charley  always  addresses  the 
ladies  as  "my  dear;  "  and  the  good-humored  expression  which  is 
enthroned  on  his  handsome  round  visage  is  only  clouded  when 
a  customer  objects  to  his  prices,  which  he  prides  himself  upon 
never  abating. 

Mr.  and  Mrs.  Vanderbilt  and  Mrs.  Cross  paid  a  visit  to  his 
excellency  the  Governor,  and  were  very  courteously  received, 
and  returned  pleased  with  their  call. 

On  Thursday  evening,  Mr.  Clark,  Major  Labau  and  I,  accepted 
an  invitation  to  dine  with  the  officers  of  the  44th  at  their  quar- 
ters upon  the  Rock.  At  six  o'clock  we  repaired  to  the  Club- 
house, where  we  were  to  meet  our  kind  friends,  who  would  take 
charge  of  us.  At  sundown  we  had  the  pleasure  to  listen  to  the 
noble  band  which  plays  every  evening  in  the  square,  and  never 
did  music  sound  more  sweetly  than  that  calm  night.  Having 
ordered  our  boatmen  to  meet  us  at  the  Ragged  Staff,  as  the  town 
gates  would  be  closed  on  our  return,  we  at  a  little  past  seven 
got  into  the  carriage  and  ascended  the  rock,  which  is  a  slow 
process,  but  every  winding  turn  showing  us  new  beauties,  and  at 
eight  we  reached  the  comfortable  quarters  of  the  regimental 
mess.  A  more  superb  look-out  was  never  seen  than  this  build- 
ing affords. 

The  accommodations  are  very  fine,  and  all  that  gentlemen  can 
desire.  At  a  little  past  eight  we  were  summoned  to  the  dining- 
«:oom,  and  a  more  magnificent  one  is  not  easily  found.     It  was  a 


DINNER   WITH   THE   FORTY-FOURTH   REGIMENT.      323 

company  night,  of  which  there  arc  two  every  week.  There 
were  twenty-two  or  twenty-four  officers  at  table,  all  in  uniform. 
Xhe  table  was  loaded  with  massive  plate,  belonging  to  the  regi- 
ment, which  is  distinguished  for  the  elegance  of  its  equipage. 

Our  dinner  was  one  of  the  best  I  ever  met  out  of  Paris; 
indeed,  it  was  thoroughly  Parisian,  as  the  arrangements  of  the 
mess  are  under  the  supervision  of  an  artist  from  the  French 
capital.  The  Epergncs  were  very  large,  and  bear  the  name  of 
the  regiment ;  and  the  immense  candelabra  and  other  adornments 
rendered  it  a  brilliant  scene.  The  band  played  during  the  eve- 
ning, and  I  deeply  regret  that  I  cannot  lay  my  hand  upon  the 
musical  programme  with  which  we  were  provided.  The  evening 
was  passed  in  pleasant  interchange  of  views  and  opinions  upon 
national  and  local  matters,  and  the  Russian  and  Turkish  diffi- 
culties camo  in  for  a  share  of  our  conversation.  The  gentlemen 
here,  as  in  Malta,  strongly  sympathize  with  the  Sultan.  A  more 
agreeable  party  I  never  met  than  surrounded  that  table  ;  every 
one  seemed  happy  to  meet  us  as  Americans,  and  there  was  a 
general  sentiment  expressed  of  strong  aversion  to  the  tone  of  the 
articles  which  appear  in  one  of  the  leading  London  papers,  and 
which  most  surely  are  not  the  just  exponents  of  English  opinion 
and  feeling  towards  the  United  States. 

As  the  gates  are  closed  at  ten  for  the  night,  we  could  only 
leave  the  rock  at  the  Ragged  Stafi"  gate,  and  that  by  the  favor  of 
the  powers  that  command.  Having  the  staff  in  their  own  hands, 
and  the  charge  of  the  carriages  which  were  to  convey  us  to  the 
shore,  our  hospitable  friends  kept  us  late.  I  am  quite  sure  that 
the  kind  speeches  of  the  generous,  high-minded  officers  of  the 
44th,  and  tht'lr  friends  of  other  regiments,  will  long  be  remem- 
bered by  eac'i  of  their  American  guests.  I  shall  never  hear  the 
Rock  of  Gibraltar  spoken  of  without  thinking  of  the  44th 
regiment,  and  our  friends  Brown,  Higgins,  Deering,  Thornhill, 
and  others  whose  faces  I  can  recall  much  easier  than  their  names. 
These  gentlemen  insisted  upon  escorting  us  down  to  the  shore, 


324     MR.    ROBERTS  —  DEPARTURE   FROM    GIBRALTAR. 

and  some  fifteen  of  them  got  in  and  on  our  two  carriages,  and 
the  descent  of  the  Rock  of  Gribraltar  by  a  bright  moonlight,  and 
the  hearty  English  huzzas  with  which  they  took  leave  of  us,  are 
never  to  be  forgotten  by  either  of  their  guests. 

A  charming  row  of  two  miles  brought  us  to  the  yacht,  and 
Bome  amusing  events  which  there  transpired  deeply  convinced  us 
that  it  is  never  a  wise  thing  to  be  in  "  a  hurry." 

Among  those  whose  politeness  I  feel  bound  to  record  I  will 
mention  Mr.  Roberts,  who  keeps  a  fine  chemist's  store,  where 
every  drug  and  chemical  may  be  procured  in  as  much  perfection 
as  in  London  or  Paris.  Mr.  Roberts,  with  hundreds  of  the 
inhabitants  of  the  Rock,  visited  the  yacht ;  and  when  he  came 
off  to  us  the  day  we  sailed,  he  politely  brought  a  box  of  ice, 
which  for  a  day  or  two  proved  exceedingly  comfortable  and 
refreshing.  Our  own  stock  had  been  exhausted,  and  the  good 
people  at  the  only  port  in  the  Mediterranean  where  it  could  be 
obtained  asked  the  moderate  price  of  one  hundred  and  twenty 
dollars  per  ton.  Our  ice  procured  at  St.  Petersburg  lasted  us 
into  the  Mediterranean,  but  soon  wasted  in  that  region. 

Here  we  had  to  take  leave  of  our  friends  and  fellow-voyagers 
Mr.  and  Mrs.  Daniel  B.  Allen.  Mrs.  Allen  came  on  board  the 
yacht  from  a  sick  bed,  and  in  a  condition  of  extreme  debility. 
The  voyage  proved  eminently  serviceable,  and  now,  in  much  im- 
proved health,  she  leaves  us.  Our  friends  took  a  steamer  to 
Cadiz,  and  proposed  to  pass  a  year  in  Europe.  They  carried  with 
them  the  best  wishes  of  all  our  company,  and  sorry  were  we  to 
lose  the  companionship  of  those  who  ever  looked  upon  the 
bright  jide  of  each  passing  event. 

On  leaving  the  harbor  we  fired  a  salute,  which  was  replied  to 
by  th'  guns  of  the  fortress. 


CHAPTER    XXIII. 

LEAVE    GIBRALTAR TANGIER SAIL   FOR   MADEIRA. —  PORTO    SANTO MA 

DEIRA FUXCUAL,  AND    ITS   ASPECT LANDING   IN   THE  SURF HISTORIO 

NOTICE LEGEND    OF    JIACIIIM OBSERVATIONS   ON    FUNCHAL CATHOLIC 

INTOLERANCE MANNERS    OF    PEOPLE EXCURSION    TO    THE    CHURCH    OF 

OUR     LADY      OP     THE     MOUNT SCENERY  A     MIRACLE MR.      GEORGE 

BROWN BEGGARS ARTICLES    FOR    SALE YATES'    HOTEL HIS    STUDY 

CLIMATE SIR     JAMES     CLARK     AND     LEIGH     HUNT POPULATION 

BOARDING-HOUSES MODES    OP    TRAVEL SHOPS  ■ —  THE    BOY-BEGGARS 

BLAST  OF  THE  VINEYARDS THE   VINE WINES  OF    THE    ISLAND FRUITS 

AND    VEGETABLES  —  TREES   AND    FLOWERS  ■ —  BIRDS  FISH DEPARTURE. 

September  9th,  we  left  Gibraltar  on  a  fine  morning,  at  about 
eleven  o'clock,  and,  with  a  brisk  breeze,  stood  over  for  Tangier, 
We  soon  made  the  headland  of  Cape  Spartel,  and  had  a  glorious 
view  of  the  straits.  This  is  the  north-west  point  of  Africa 
and  of  Morocco,  and  forms  the  south-western  boundary  of  the 
Straits  of  Gibraltar.  On  its  summit  wc  observed  an  old  tower, 
which  appeared  in  ruins.  The  sea  was  rolling  into  the  Bay  of 
Tangier,  with  a  strong  northerly  wind,  and  it  was  soon  very  clear 
that  we  were  to  be  deprived  of  the  pleasure  which  we  had  an- 
ticipated in  landing  on  the  continent  of  Africa.  The  surf  was 
rolling  in  white  sheets  of  foam,  and,  as  a  landing  could  only  be 
effected  by  the  use  of  the  surf-boats  from  the  shore,  we  at  once 
felt  that  it  was  unwise  to  hazard  the  inconvenience  for  the  grati- 
fication of  an  hour.  We  were  about  one  mile  from  the  shore, 
and  our  consul's  flag  was  at  once  exhibited  from  his  house-top. 
This  gentleman  had  expressed  to  us  at  Gibraltar  his  earnest  hope 
that  wc  would  show  our  yacht  to  the  Moors. 

The  town  makes  a  fine  appearance,  as  the  buildings  are  all 
white.     It  stands  in  a  small  sna.ce,  and  within  a   line  of  old 


326  TANGIER  —  PORTO   SANTO  —  DESERTAS. 

Moorish  fortified  walls ;  the  buildings  come  down  very  close  to 
the  shore.  Not  a  vessel  was  in  the  little  bay,  which  is  exceed- 
ingly exposed  to  the  north-west  winds.  Tangier  is  an  old  place, 
and  when  won  by  the  Romans,  under  Sertorius,  was  known  as 
Tingris.  Saracens,  Moors,  Portuguese  and  English,  have  all  by 
turn  claimed  possession  of  this  spot.  Charles  II.  of  England 
received  it  as  part  of  the  portion  of  his  wife,  Catherine  of  Por- 
tugal. It  was  abandoned  in  1684  by  the  British.  The  present 
population  is  about  seven  thousand  five  hundred,  of  whom  one- 
third  are  Jews.  It  carries  on  extensive  trade  with  Gibraltar  in 
cattle,  poultry,  &c.  Not  often  have  I  seen  a  finer  outline  of 
coast  than  that  which  encircles  this  little  town.  A  noble  range 
of  hills  extends  off  to  the  east  and  south,  and,  as  far  as  we  could 
see,  the  most  luxuriant  growth  of  trees.  Palms  and  aloes  were 
abundant,  and  the  cultivation  looked  as  though  it  were  of  a  high 
order.  Certainly  a  sail  along  this  part  of  Africa  is  most  de- 
lightful, and  it  is  hard  to  believe  that  such  scenes  of  beauty  are 
inhabited  by  barbarous  Arabs,  who  are  ever  prowling  for  their 
prey. 

We  now,  at  half-past  two  p.  m.,  made  our  course  direct  for  the 
island  of  Madeira.  In  the  evening  the  breeze  freshened,  and  all 
night  and  throughOTit  Saturday  we  had  good  headway.  On  the 
evening  of  the  11th,  at  six,  we  made  the  island  of  Porto  Santo, 
and  lay  to  under  its  lee,  waiting  for  daylight  to  enter  the  road- 
stead of  Funchal.  This  island  presents  a  remarkable  appear- 
ance, and  is  seen  at  a  great  distance.  Three  large  hummocks 
enable  the  mariner  to  distinguish  it  from  Madeira.  The  moun- 
tainous heights  appear  barren,  and  everything,  as  far  as  we  could 
see,  looked  unpromising.  The  population  is  about  one  thousand 
two  hundred. 

In  the  early  dawn  of  day  we  were  passing  north  of  the 
Desertas,  a  group  of  rocky  islands  which  are  not  inhabited,  and 
only  visited  by  a  few  fishermen,  who  have  huts  here  for  occa- 
sional use.     One  rock,  called  the  Pyramid,  bears  a  very  strong 


M* 


V 


'm 


M?-^''- 


''■jfl;' 


rUNCIIAL   AND    ITS  ASPECT.  829 

resemblance  to  a  ship  with  her  sails  spread.  The  Table  Kock  is 
a  flat  island,  and  takes  its  name  from  its  formation.  The  passage 
between  the  Desertas  and  Madeira  is  about  eight  miles  wide,  and 
we  lay  pretty  close  to  the  island,  which  rose  up  with  its  lofty 
mountain  range  before  us,  in  the  bright  morning  light.  Madeira 
opened  to  our  view  as  a  long  range  of  rocky  hills,  dotted  with 
white  houses,  church-towers,  villas,  trees  planted  in  rows,  and 
looking  like  orchards.  As  we  passed  along,  the  scenery  became 
exquisitely  beautiful.  Precipitous  cliffs,  deep  ravines  and  beds 
of  mountain  torrents,  are  clearly  discernible ;  and  gorges  cut 
out  as  by  the  convulsions  of  nature,  between  vast  mountains, 
extending  from  the  sea  up  to  the  summits  of  the  cliffs,  till  hidden 
from  sight  by  the  clouds  resting  on  the  peaks  of  the  range, 
present  a  most  majestic  landscape. 

Funohal  now  opened  upon  our  gaze  in  all  its  beauty.  This 
famoua  bay,  which  hardly,  however,  comes  up  to  this  geographi- 
cal apptllation,  begins  to  recede  from  the  Cape  Garajao  at  the 
east,  a  distance  of  nearly  three  miles,  and  then  runs  out  more 
boldly  towards  Ponta  da  Cruz,  a  little  west  of  Funchal.  The 
entire  indentation  is,  I  think,  less  than  a  mile.  From  Garajao 
to  Fort  St.  Jago,  which  stands  as  an  eastern  boundary  to  the 
town,  the  coast  is  very  bold,  and  has  but  one  mountain  gorge,  at 
the  foot  of  which  stand  the  quarantine  buildings. 

At  Fort  St.  Jago  a  rough  shingle  beach  begins,  which  fronts 
the  entire  town,  and  extends  to  the  western  extremity  of  Funchal, 
known  as  t-he  Ribeira  de  Sao  Paulo,  and  then  on  to  the  narrow 
point  called  the  Pontinha  and  the  Loo-Rock ;  these  are  both  sur- 
mounted with  forts,  and  are  striking  features  from  the  vessels  in 
the  bay.  Loo-Rock  stands  out  more  than  one  hundred  yards 
from  the  line  of  the  coast.  Not  far  from  this,  and  bordering  on 
the  town,  are  the  Portuguese  cemetery  and  a  fine  plantation  of 
cypress  trees.  The  town  lies  directly  on  the  water  line,  and 
ascends  the  eminence,  which  extends  to  a  high  mountainous 
ranii-e  behind  it,  and  is  at  least  three  thousand  five  hundred  feet 
27 


330  LANDING   IN    SURF  —  HISTOraC    NOTICE. 

high.  I  am  sure  that  no  artist  has  ever  done  justice  to  the 
scenery  of  this  island.  It  reminds  me  of  Gay  Head,  ou  Mar- 
tha's Vineyard ;  and  has  as  rich  variety  of  soil  as  that  remarkable 
headland,  mingling  black,  yellow,  red  and  white,  with  the  living 
green  of  the  luxuriant  foliage,  under  the  perpetually  shifting 
shadows  of  the  clouds. 

Our  vessel  was  soon  surrounded  by  a  fleet  of  boats  from  the 
shore.  The  health-ofl&ccr  came  off  to  us,  and,  taking  our  papers, 
soon  returned,  giving  us  permission  to  land.  We  then  landed, 
and  on  gaining  the  shore  had  to  have  our  boats  drawn  up 
through  the  surf,  which  breaks  strongly  on  the  strand.  This  is 
sometimes  quite  an  undertaking.  As  soon  as  the  boat  nears  the 
shore  it  is  turned  stern  end  to  the  beach,  and  the  oarsmen,  with 
their  pantaloons  tucked  up,  seize  the  opportunity  when  a  large 
wave  rolls  up  to  back  the  boat  upon  its  force,  till  it  touches  the 
beach ;  they  then  jump  out,  and  pull  the  boat  and  passengers  tip 
high  and  dry.  We  at  once  repaired  to  the  hotel  kept  by  Mr.  Yates. 
Among  our  visitors  from  the  town,  before  we  landed,  were  Mr. 
Borden  and  Mr.  George  Brown,  both  of  whom  rendered  us  kind 
and  friendly  attentions  upon  shore  during  our  entire  stay  upon 
the  island. 

Before  I  record  our  movements,  I  would  here  say  a  little  aboui 
the  history  of  this  interesting  place.  It  seems  probable  that  in 
the  days  of  Augustus  Ceesar  something  was  known  of  the  exist- 
ence of  these  islands.  Pliny  unquestionably  speaks  of  these 
groups,  and  adds  that  they  were  "  discovered  by  Juba."  After 
the  decline  and  fall  of  Carthage,  it  is  certain  that  all  intercourse 
with  the  Atlantic  islands  was  cut  oif.  In  1419  the  Prince 
Henry,  son  of  John,  King  of  Portugal,  sent  out  ships  to  double 
Cape  Bojador,  and  the  captains  were  driven  so  far  from  s  jore, 
that  they  fell  in  with  an  island,  which  they  called  Porto  Saulo. 
Henry  sent  out  a  colony  to  this  island,  and  the  inhabitants  soon 
noticed  a  dark  spot  still  westward,  and  Zarco,  the  commander  of 
one  of  Henry's  ships,  sailing  west,  discovered  an  island,  1420,  to 


HISTORY   OF   MACHIM.  831 

which  he  gave  the  name  of  Madeira,  because  it  was  covered  with 
trees. 

The  Portuguese  determined  to  colonize  the  island,  and  made 
Zarco,  and  his  fellow-navigator  Teixeira,  captains  of  the  place. 
Zarco  ruled  forty-seven  years,  and  is  buried  in  St.  Clara  con- 
vent. In  1508  Funchal  was  made  a  city.  In  1580  Madeira 
passed  into  the  hands  of  Spain,  and  continued  in  her  possession 
until  1640.  From  1801  until  1807  it  was  under  English  pro- 
tection. In  1847  a  popular  effort  was  made,  but  the  place  was 
restoi'ed  to  Portugal,  and  is  still  in  her  power. 

The  Spaniards  say  that  Columbus  was  once  a  resident  on  this 
island.  It  is  certain  that  his  wife  was  the  daughter  of  Pestrello, 
one  of  the  discoverei-s  of  Porto  Santo.  A  romantic  story  is  also 
told  of  the  re-discovery  of  Madeira.  This  narrative,  by  Alcafor- 
ado,  was  translated  into  French  in  1671,  and  was  printed  la 
Paris. 

HISTORY    OF    MACHIM. 

An  Englishman  of  obscure  birth,  named  Hobert  Machim,  who 
lived  in  the  reign  of  Edward  III.,  fell  in  love  with  Anna  d'Arfet, 
a  beautiful  damsel  of  noble  family.  Her  father,  incensed  at  his 
presumption,  obtained  the  imprisonment  of  the  lover,  and  mar- 
ried his  daughter  to  a  more  illustrious  suitor.  The  bridegroom, 
however,  having  left  his  castle,  near  Bristol,  to  attend  the  king 
in  his  wars,  Machim,  when  released,  procured  access  to  Anna, 
and  persuaded  her  to  escape  with  him  to  France,  They  sailed, 
without  a  pilot,  for  the  coast  of  Bretagne ;  but,  a  storm  arising, 
lost  their  reckoning,  and,  after  running  ten  days  before  the  gale, 
at  length  discovered  the  coast  of  Madeira,  and  landed,  in  1346, 
in  a  bay,  afterwards  named  Machico,  from  him.  A  storm  drove 
Machim's  vessel  from  its  anchorage,  leaving  those  who  had  landed 
from  it  in  such  distress,  that  the  lady  died  of  grief  Machim, 
refusing  all  food,  did  not  long  survive  her,  and  was  buried  in  the 
same  grave.     The  rest,  having  ornamented  the  tomb  with  a  large 


332  rUNCHAL  —  CATHOLIC    IXTOLERx\.IsCE, 

wooden  cross,  and  placed  near  it  an  inscription  which  Machim 
had  prepared,  requesting  the  first  Christians  who  might  read  it  to 
raise  a  chapel  on  the  spot,  took  to  their  boat,  and,  being  carried 
to  the  coast  of  Barbary,  were  made  captives  by  the  Moors.  While 
in  captivity  they  related  their  adventures  and  described  the 
position  of  Madeira  to  a  fellow-captive,  who  communicated  the 
flicts  to  a  Spanish  pilot,  called  Morales,  in  the  employment  of 
Goncalves  Zarco,  Antonio  Galvano,  in  his  account  of  Portu- 
guese discoveries,  relates  that  this  Machim,  after  Anna's  death, 
left  the  island  in  a  boat,  and  it  was  picked  up  on  the  coast  of 
Africa,  by  the  Moors,  and  sent  as  a  curiosity  to  Henry  III., 
King  of  Castile, 

Funchal  is  built  in  an  irregular  manner,  and  its  streets  are 
laid  with  a  pavement  of  small  stones,  of  the  size  of  an  egg.  The 
stones  are  basalt,  and  are  furnished  by  the  beach.  The  streets 
are  narrow,  and  the  rich  and  poor  seem  to  live  in  harmonious 
contiguity.  Most  of  the  dwellings  have  balconies.  In  a  large 
number  of  instances  I  found  the  ground  floor  of  the  houses  used 
as  wine-cellars.  The  people  deserve  much  credit  for  the  great 
cleanliness  of  their  streets,  llivers,  or,  more  properly  speaking, 
mountain-torrents,  at  least  three  pass  through  Funchal,  and  have 
in  their  autumnal  swell  frequently  devastated  the  place;  but 
their  beds  and  channels  are  now  dammed  up  by  stupendous  walls 
These  channels  were  perfectly  dry  when  we  were  here.  I  have 
never  met  with  such  hosts  of  beggars  as  at  this  place.  Men, 
women  and  children,  assail  you.  The  principal  street  is  called 
the  Carreira,  at  the  end  of  which  is  the  English  chapel.  It  is  a 
plain  building,  having  no  very  striking  exterior  appearance  of  a 
church  ;  but  this  arises  from  Portuguese  intolerance.  Catholics 
prate  about  their  rights  and  liberties  in  England  and  America, 
where  they  have  perfect  liberty  to  observe  their  religious  ser- 
vices, but  not  an  atom  of  this  will  they  afibrd  to  Protestants  in 
any  land  on  which  they  have  power  and  entire  foothold. 

It  is  about  time  for  England  and  the  United  States  to  demand 


MANNERS   AND    COSTUMES   OF   THE   PEASANTS.        333 

from  Catholic  countries  the  liberty  of  worship  for  their  citizens 
abroad.  Will  Americans  ever  learn  that  Popery  is  an  unchange- 
able system,  and  that  icherecer  it  has  power  there  it  pcr.iLaUcs  1 
Our  Catholic  bishops  must  laugh  at  the  facility  -with  which  they 
delude  our  statesmen  and  our  citizens  by  talking  about  liberty, 
republicanism,  and  other  matters  which  they  abhor,  and  would 
exterminate  from  the  face  of  the  earth. 

The  most  agreeable  walks  in  the  town  are  the  Praca  Academ- 
ica,  and  Praca  da  Ilainha,  on  the  border  of  the  sea,  and  the 
Praca  da  Constituic^ao,  which  is  in  front  of  the  cathedral.  On 
these  promenades  there  are  fine  shade-trees,  and  conveniences  for 
the  invalid  to  take  repose.  These  are  great  places  of  rendezvous 
in  the  cool  of  the  evenings,  and  on  gala  occasions  the  band  plays 
for  the  entertainment  of  the  company.  I  have  seldom  seen  finer- 
looking  men  and  women  than  the  peasantry  who  come  into  town 
from  the  mountains,  bearing  supplies  of  produce  and  fuel  in  bur- 
dens on  their  heads.  These  people  struck  me  as  possessing  much 
politeness,  for  men  and  women  in  their  station  of  life.  I  never 
passed  them  but  they  made  a  respectful  recognition,  and  at  the 
same  time  touched  or  removed  the  jaunty,  funnel-shaped  cap, 
with  a  long  peak  slightly  topping  off  to  the  right.  The  costume 
of  the  country  people  is  very  picturesque.  The  women  commonly 
v/ear  printed  calico,  and  a  petticoat  of  striped  linsey-woolsey, 
bound  with  a  gay  color.  The  men  wear  white  linen  trousers, 
the  shirt  adorned  at  the  neck  with  a  gold  button,  a  showy  waist- 
coat, generally  worn  open,  or  with  bright  buttons,  and  a  short 
jacket  thrown  across  the  left  shoulder.  The  carapuca  is  worn  by 
men  and  women.  My  impressions  of  the  common  people  at 
Madeira  are  very  favorable ;  they  are  always  clean-looking,  but 
their  reputation  is  not  good  for  honesty.  The  state  of  religion 
is  very  low,  and  I  am  told  by  residents  on  the  island  that  the 
priesthood  are  very  indolent  and  inattentive.  Dr.  Kalley  was 
epoken  of  with  respect,  and  it  was  conceded  that  when  residing 
here  he  effected  much  good.  The  rugged  roads  occasion  most 
27^ 


o34     SXCURSION  TO  THE  CHAPEL  OF  THE  MOUNT. 

of  the  burthens  to  be  conveyed  on  the  shoulders  of  the  peasantry  ; 
and  long  journeys  of  seven  and  ten  miles  are  made  with  two 
hundred  and  even  three  hundred  pounds,  up  and  down  ascents 
which  really  appear  well-nigh  impassable  for  an  ordinary  foot- 
passenger. 

On  a  beautiful  afternoon,  several  ladies  and  gentlemen  formed 
a  party  at  the  hotel,  and,  under  the  guidance  of  Mr.  Borden,  set 
out  to  visit  the  Chapel  of  Our  Lady  on  the  Mount,  which  is  a 
most  prominent  object  from  the  deck  of  our  yacht,  standing  high 
up  in  the  back-ground  of  Funchal.  The  party  were  supplied  with 
horses,  and  Burroqueros,  who  are  the  attendants  of  the  horses  and 
mules,  and,  hanging  on  at  the  animal's  tail,  manage  to  regulate  his 
movements ;  they  keep  up  with  the  horse,  in  spite  of  the  toilsome 
ascent.  The  ladies  on  their  return  reported  to  me,  for  I  did  not 
go,  that  their  road  lay  through  narrow  streets,  enclosed  on  either 
side  by  high  stone  walls,  rising  like  parapets,  every  now  and 
then  low  enough  to  give  peeps  of  the  enclosed  gardens  and 
scenery  beyond.  But,  to  atone  for  this  concealment,  on  all  sides 
of  the  broken  heights,  or  clinging  to  and  overhanging  the  walls 
themselves,  were  large  shrubs  of  heliotrope  in  full  flower,  per- 
fuming the  air  with  their  fragrant  petals ;  geraniums  of  immense 
growth  and  charming  variety ;  luxuriant  fuchsias,  obtaining  a 
size  and  vigor  denied  them  in  our  less  genial  clime ;  multiflora 
roses,  sweet  myrtles,  huge  oleanders,  filled  with  rose-like  blos- 
soms ;  these  and  many  other  floral  beauties  feasted  their  senses 
during  that  pleasant  ride.  About  twenty  minutes  before  arriv- 
ing at  the  church,  they  rested  at  a  platform  which  overhangs  a 
vast  gorge,  and  commands  the  most  splendid  scenery  imaginable. 
Sea  and  sky  lay  before  and  beneath,  blended  in  one  heavenly 
azure,  clear  and  blue  in  the  softest  summer  radiance.  Two  cone- 
like mountains  in  the  distance  at  the  right  uplifted  their  bluish- 
gray  outline  against  a  most  exquisite  back-ground ;  and  all 
around  were  wooded  heights,  deep  ravines,  and  beautiful  beds  of 
wintry  torrents ;  pretty  little  thatched  garden-cottages,  surrounded 


SCENEKY.  335 

by  plantain,  banana  and  fig  trees ;  mountains,  around  whose  sum- 
mits clouds  ever  lingered,  —  all  were  thrown  together  in  one  pic- 
turesque combination.  As  they  ascended,  the  high  walls  had 
disappeared,  giving  again  occasional  glimpses  of  the  surrounding 
country.  Large  growths  of  aloes  were  seen  at  every  turn.  The 
Church  of  Our  Lady  presents  nothing  particularly  striking,  on  a 
near  survey.  It  is  approached  by  long  flights  of  stone  steps 
from  the  platform  in  its  front.  Like  all  Popish  churches,  it  has 
several  small  side  chapels.  From  the  platform  there  is  a  charm- 
ing view  of  the  bay  and  its  boundaries. 

The  descent  from  the  mountain  was  by  another  path,  equally 
precipitous,  but  even  more  beautiful  than  the  one  by  which  the 
ascent  had  been  made,  because  it  commanded  a  more  vmob- 
structed  view  of  the  beautiful  country.  Many  a  lovely  little 
nook  and  precipitous  ravine,  clothed  from  the  top  to  the  bottom 
of  its  steep  sides  with  shrubs  and  verdure,  lives  a  green  picture 
in  memory ;  and  that  ride  to  Our  Lady's  Church  of  the  Mount  is 
.daguerreotyped  upon  the  tablets  of  recollection. 

The  next  day,  Mr.  Cope,  our  first  ofiicer,  joined  Mrs.  Choules 
and  myself  in  this  same  excursion.  We  went  up  in  a  carriage 
drawn  by  a  pair  of  oxen.  Mrs.  C.  was  as  much  delighted  as  on 
the  previous  ascent.  I  think  the  church  stands  at  eighteen  hun- 
dred feet  above  the  town,  immediately  in  its  rear.  Mr.  J.  A.  Dix, 
in  his  charming  volume  of  "  Winter  in  Madeira,"  says  that  "  the 
ascent  is  at  an  angle  of  not  less  than  fifteen  degrees  with  the 
horizon."  Much  of  the  ascent  is  far  more  precipitous.  I  do  not 
remember  any  day  in  my  life  in  which  I  have  enjoyed  the  beau- 
ties of  nature  so  keenly.  We  stopped  on  our  way  at  a  lovely 
villa,  and  walked  through  the  sweetest  garden  I  ever  entered.  I 
know  not  the  names  of  half  the  trees  that  were  there;  but  I  shall 
not  forget  the  glorious  camellia  japonicas,  some  of  which  were  at 
least  eighteen  or  twenty  feet  high,  and  in  luxuriant  bloom.  The 
geraniums  were  of  extraordinary  growth  and  beauty.  Here  I 
first  saw  tl  8  coffee-tree.     An  intelligent  gardener  led  us  from 


336  MIRACLE  —  MR.    GEO.    BROWN. 

one  spot  of  beauty  to  another,  and  furnished  me  with  some  seeds 
of  various  kinds.  The  prospect  of  the  mountain  beyond  the 
church  is  sublime,  rising  up  thousands  of  feet.  This  sanctuary 
is  very  dear  to  the  population  ;  it  not  only  serves  -as  a  landmark, 
but  the  devout  Catholic  sailor,  as  he  comes  into  port,  recognizes 
it  as  the  church  of  the  saint  whose  protection  has  saved  him  from 
the  dangers  of  the  sea,  and  here  he  makes  his  vow  to  the  object 
of  his  trust. 

It  is  said  that  Our  Lady  of  the  Mount  once  vouchsafed  a  mira- 
cle when  the  people  were  threatened  with  a  famine.  A  pilgrim- 
age to  the  mount  was  undertaken*  by  the  principal  inhabitants 
to  invoke  the  aid  of  Nossa  Senhora,  and,  lo  !  the  next  morning  a 
vessel  came  into  Funchal  from  Lisbon,  laden  with  corn !  On 
examination,  the  clothes  of  the  saint  were  saturated  with  sea- 
water,  and  the  sailors  declared  that  during  a  long  calm  a  white 
figure  arose  from  the  ocean  and  drew  them  into  the  harbor ! 

I  spent  a  very  pleasant  hour  with  Mr.  George  Brown,  at  his 
residence.  This  gentleman  has  had  a  checkered  life,  and  few 
men  have  passed  through  more  vicissitudes.  The  history  of  his 
adventures  would  be  an  interesting  one,  and  afford  a  striking 
illustration  of  the  benefits  to  be  derived  from  a  cheerful,  hopeful 
temper.  Mr.  Brown  occupies  a  large  house,  and  employs  him- 
self in  the  education  of  some  twenty  or  thirty  lads.  I  found  him 
surrounded  with  the  unmistakable  proofs  of  his  admiration  of 
our  country,  in  which  he  had  passed  several  years.  The  walls 
of  his  parlor  have  on  them  the  Declaration  of  Independence, 
Jackson's  Proclamation,  the  likenesses  of  the  Presidents,  and 
maps  of  the  United  States,  and  some  of  the  single  states.  The 
books,  too,  indicate  the  bent  of  his  predilections. 

I  made  minute  inquiries  as  to  the  studies  of  his  pupils,  and 
was  gratified  to  find  that  he  makes  American  history  a  very  large 
part  of  the  course  of  instruction.  Mr.  B.  showed  me  the  copy- 
books, compositions,  etc.,  of  his  lads ;  and  it  was  a  curious  thing 
tf  find  that  he  makes  them  translate  the  Declaration  of  Ameri- 


BEGGARS  —  ARTICLES   FOR   SALE.  337 

can  Independence  into  Portuguese.  He  allowed  me  to  carry 
away  a  fine  copy  of  it,  the  production  of  a  youth  of  fifteen  years 
of  age.  The  governor  often  visits  Mr.  B.,  and  he  regards  the 
arrival  of  United  States  ships  with  much  interest,  as  he  then 
makes  his  solitary  abode  head-quarters  for  our  officers.  His  card- 
basket  showed  quite  an  extensive  circle  of  acquaintance  with  our 
naval  gentlemen. 

"With  my  friend  I  rambled  through  the  town,  and  had  my 
attention  directed  to  many  curious  matters.  The  Reading-room 
is  quite  a  snug  little  place,  delightfully  embowered  by  vines  and 
creepers,  close  to  the  water. 

Whenever  we  landed  we  were  surrounded  by  beggars,  and 
many  of  them  were  very  interesting  children.  We  often  think 
of  one  fine-looking  boy,  about  eight  years  old,  who  pressed  for- 
ward with  two  smaller  ones,  imploring  alms  on  their  behalf 
He  told  me,  in  pretty  good  English,  that  they  had  "  No  father, 
no  father,  poor  forlorn  ones."  This  was  his  moving  exclamation. 
I  told  him  I  would  give  them  something  next  day,  at  which  the 
poor  children's  faces  brightened  up,  and  were  radiant.  They  had 
not  yet  learned  to  distrust  man's  word. 

During  our  visit  at  Funchal,  we  were  constantly  beset  with 
men  and  women  offering  articles  for  sale.  Baskets  in  vast  vari- 
ety of  form  and  fashion,  straw-hats,  lace,  mats,  mittens,  walking- 
sticks,  tables,  writing-desks,  chess-boards  of  the  most  exquisite 
construction  in  mosaic  work,  were  pressed  upon  us  at  every  step, 
and  at  prices  astonishingly  low.  I  do  not  believe  that  such  a 
market  is  often  thrown  open  to  the  good  people  of  Funchal  as 
they  found  on  the  arrival  of  the  North  Star.  We  all  dined  on 
shore,  at  Mr.  Yates'  hotel,  and  found  an  admirable  table,  with 
the  best  of  attention. 

Mr.  Yates  was  formerly  a  sergeant  in  the  British  army,  and 
resides  here  on  account  of  his  health,  which  is  much  improved 
by  the  climate.  On  conversing  with  our  host,  I  was  surprised 
to  find  him  possessed  of  so  much  intelligence ;  and,  in  reply  to 


338  MR.    YATES — MADEIRA — CLIMATE. 

my  inquiries  on  many  subjects,  I  at  once  discovered  that  lie  was 
a  man  of  considerable  reading.  Mr.  Yates  invited  me  into  his 
study,  and  I  was  conducted  into  a  very  charming  retreat,  where 
I  met  with  a  far  finer  library  of  the  best  books  than  can  usually 
be  met  with  in  a  clergyman's  study  in  New  England.  The  cast 
of  the  proprietor's  mind  was  evidently  in  favor  of  theology  and 
metaphysics,  and  not  often  do  I  fall  in  with  a  better  collection 
of  the  best  authors.  Mr.  Yates  is  a  hard  student,  a  close 
thinker;  and,  although  at  least  fifty,  he  is  diligently  employed 
in  the  acquisition  of  the  Latin  language.  I  was  delighted  with 
my  visit  to  this  charming  study,  which  commands  a  view  of  the 
ocean  and  the  unrivalled  beauty  of  the  island  mountain  range. 

Madeira  is  known  to  all  the  world  by  its  production  of  wine, 
and  as  a  favorite  resort  for  consumptive  persons.  The  climate 
appears  to  me  to  be  all  that  can  be  desired  for  the  invalid.  The 
mean  temperature  at  Punchal  is  reported  at  66°  of  Fahrenheit 
for  the  whole  year.  February  and  March  are  the  extreme  of 
winter,  and  August  and  September  furnish  the  greatest  heat. 
Between  March  and  September  the  mean  difference  is  not  greater 
than  about  twelve  degrees.  A  variety  of  causes  operate  to  pro- 
duce this  charming  climate.  The  towering  mountains  which 
extend  to  the  entire  north  shelter  it  from  the  weather  at  every 
point  of  the  compass  except  from  the  south-east  and  south-west. 
Then  the  general  absence  of  forest  and  wood  meliorates  the 
climate,  and  the  perfect  steadiness  of  the  land  and  sea  breezes 
keeps  up  a  state  of  exquisite  tempei'ature.  The  rainy  season 
takes  place  in  autumn  and  the  early  part  of  spring,  and  seldom 
lasts  more  than  three  weeks. 

Occasionally,  at  distances  of  a  number  of  years,  this  island 
has  been  visited  with  deluges  or  freshets  of  an  alarming  charac- 
ter. The  water  comes  down  in  torrents  through  the  ravines, 
bearing  before  it  vast  masses  of  rock,  and  the  noise  is  tremen- 
dous.    In  1803,  no   ;-ss  than  five  hundred  persons  perished,  and 


CLIMATE    OF   MADEIRA.  339 

it  was  supposed  that  a  water-spout  had  broken  upon  the  moun- 
tains. 

I  was  very  particular  in  my  inquiries  as  to  the  dampness  of 
this  place,  and  am  satisfied  that  at  Funchal  there  is  no  undue 
excess  of  moisture ;  fog  is  unknown,  and  the  dews  are  very 
moderate.  I  do  not  believe  that  climate  can  save  a  man  whose 
lungs  are  nearly  consumed  by  disease ;  but  I  have  no  doubt, 
where  individuals  have  a  tendency  to  disease,  and  many  sure, 
unerring  symptoms  oi'  its  approach,  that  if  they  repaired  to  Ma- 
deira and  lived  prudently,  perfect  health  would  generally  be  the 
happy  consequence. 

Sir  James  Clark,  writing  upon  the  climate  of  Madeira,  says : 
"  It  (Madeira)  is  warmer  during  the  winter  and  cooler  during 
the  summer ;  there  is  less  difference  between  the  temperature  of 
the  day  and  that  of  the  night ;  between  one  season  and  another ; 
and  between  successive  days.  It  is  almost  exempt  from  keen, 
cold  winds,  and  enjoys  a  general  steadiness  of  weather  to  which 
the  continental  climates  are  strangers."  Acute  rheumatic  affec- 
tions are  very  rare  in  the  island,  and  the  dangerous  concomitant 
disease  of  the  heart.  Persons  laboring  under  chronic  rheuma- 
tism almost  invariably  receive  benefit  from  a  visit  or  residence 
here.  In  the  island  are  excellent  English  physicians,  —  men  of 
high  professional  eminence. 

The  general  opinion  here  is  that  a  residence  through  the  sum- 
mer is  quite  as  useful  to  the  patient  as  in  the  winter.  If  the 
population  were  not  so  ill-fed  and  hard-worked,  the  longevity 
would  be  much  greater  than  the  bills  of  mortality  indicate. 
The  physicians  say  that  all  diseases  brought  to  the  island,  as 
small-pox,  scarlet  fever,  &c.,  appear  here  in  their  mildest  forms, 
and  very  soon  disappear.  On  no  occasion  has  Madeira  been 
visited  by  the  Asiatic  cholera. 

I  am  quite  satisfied,  if  a  person  has  to  leave  the  northern 
part  of  the  United  States  or  England  for  a  milder  climate,  that 
the  best  places  I  have  ever  seen  for  his  purposes  are  Madeira 


340  EMIGRATION  —  POPULATION. 

and  Malaga.  At  either  of  these  spots  he  will  find  a  charming 
climate,  magnificent  scenery,  interesting  associations,  good  so- 
ciety, the  best  of  medical  advice,  and  the  religious  privileges 
which  a  sick  man  ought  to  appreciate. 

I  am  quite  of  Leigh  Hunt's  opinion  about  the  state  of  those 
who  are  threatened  with  consumption.  He  says :  "  I  suspect 
that  people  of  this  tendency,  with  a  proper  mode  of  living,  may 
reach  to  as  good  a  period  of  existence  as  any  others.  The  great 
secret  in  this,  as  in  almost  all  physical  cases  of  ill,  seems  to  be 
in  diet  and  regimen.  If  some  demi-god  could  regulate  for  man- 
kind what  they  should  eat  and  drink,  by  what  bodily  treatment 
circulate  their  blood,  he  would  put  an  end  to  half  the  trouble 
which  the  world  undergoes." 

The  population  of  the  island  is  not  more  than  one  hundred 
and  fifteen  thousand,  A  large  emigration  has  taken  place  to 
Demarara,  where  laborers  were  in  great  demand.  This  com- 
menced in  1835,  and  about  one  thousand  two  hundred  young 
men  left  Madeira ;  others  went  in  1840.  A  heavy  fee  is  paid  by 
each  emigrant.  It  is  supposed  that  since  1835  nearly  thirty 
thousand  persons  have  gone  to  the  West  India  Islands, 

All  who  resort  to  this  island  speak  favorably  of  the  local 
authorities ;  the  officers  of  the  custom-house  are  very  polite,  and 
the  most  liberal  course  is  adopted  in  reference  to  the  admission 
of  personal  goods. 

The  boarding-houses  are  numerous,  and  very  comfortable. 
Mr.  John  Yates'  family  hotel  is  all  that  a  gentleman  would 
desire,  and  the  charges  for  board  vary  from  forty  to  fifty  dollars 
per  month,  inclusive  of  the  wine  of  the  island.  There  are  sev- 
eral villas  to  let,  furnished,  and  on  reasonable  terms.  These 
houses  can  be  had  for  three,  six  or  twelve  months.  Good  ser- 
vants can  be  procured  at  the  following  rates,  as  I  was  informed  : 
Good  men-cooks,  seven  to  eight  dollars;  plain  do.,  five  to  six  dol- 
lars ;  house-maid,  three  to  four  dollars ;  boy,  two  dollars ;  groom, 
five  dollars, — without  food.    Good  horses  are  easily  procured,  but 


MODES    OF    TRAVEL  —  SHOPS  —  BOY-BEGGARS.        841 

good  saddles  are  scarce,  and  a  visitor  should  bring  his  own.  The 
roads  are  entirely  unfit  for  carriages,  and  those  who  do  not  ride 
on  horseback  generally  make  use  of  the  palanquin,  a  sort  of 
cradle  suspended  from  a  pole,  and  hanging  about  twelve  inches 
from  the  ground.  It  has  curtains  and  awning,  and  a  low  seat. 
This  is  carried  by  two  men,  and  the  charge  is  about  twelve  and 
a  half  cents  an  hour.  The  ox  carriage  of  which  I  made  men- 
tion will  hold  four  persons,  and  is  like  a  large  sleigh,  moving  on 
wooden  or  iron  runners. 

I  found  the  shops,  both  English  and  Portuguese,  well  supplied 
•with  everything  that  visitoi's  would  need ;  but  their  exterior  ap- 
pearance is  by  no  means  inviting.  Reading-rooms,  clubs,  &c., 
are  all  open  to  the  stranger.  The  Commercial  Reading-room, 
near  the  pier,  with  its  charming  veranda  and  beautiful  view  of 
the  sea,  would  be  a  favorite  lounge  of  mine,  if  I  were  to  pass 
any  time  at  Funchal. 

Divine  service  is  performed  here  every  Sabbath,  both  in  the 
English  Church  and  in  the  Free  Church  of  Scotland. 

It  is  hardly  necessary  to  say  that  every  part  of  the  island 
abounds  in  the  most  picturesque  and  romantic  scenery.  I  pro- 
cured some  excellent  engravings  of  cataracts  and  ravines  in  dis- 
tant parts  of  the  island,  which  are  awfully  grand  and  sublime. 
Our  limited  stay  did  not  allow  me  to  visit  them. 

On  one  of  my  visits  on  shore,  I  again  met  with  "  the  forlorn 
ones,"  and  their  eloquent  little  advocate.  I  took  him  on  board 
the  yacht,  and  made  up  a  large  bundle  of  clothes,  including  a 
bonnet  for  his  mother,  and  never  did  I  see  more  perfect  joy  in  a 
human  countenance.  He  went  back  in  the  boat,  and  divided  up 
his  spoils;  and  that  day  several  little  hearts  were  made  glad. 

Mr.  and  Mrs.  Vanderbilt  and  others  of  the  party  visited  the 

elegant   abode   of   Mr.    Gordon,   on   the   mountain,    and   were 

greatly  delighted  with  his  charming  residence.     This  gentleman, 

and  our  worthy  consul,  Mr.  March,  were  absent  on  a  visit  to 

28 


342        DESTKUCTION    OF    THE   VINEYARDS  —  WINES. 

England,  having  left  Madeira  by  the  steamer  a  few  days  pre- 
yious  to  our  arrival. 

We  were  all  very  sorry  to  find  the  island  laboring  under  a  sad 
calamity  in  the  total  destruction  of  the  vineyards.  Instead  of 
producing  twenty-five  thousand  pipes  of  wine,  as  used  to  be  done, 
this  year  the  amount  will  fall  below  two  hundred  !  No  one  can 
form  an  adequate  idea  of  the  blasted  appearance  of  the  vines 
who  has  not  seen  them.  They  look  as  if  they  had  been  scorched 
by  fire.  \Ye  could  not  obtain  grapes  to  eat.  The  fear  is 
entertained  that  the  vines  are  so  injured  that  several  years  must 
elapse  ere  another  crop  can  be  realized.  The  vine  was  brought 
here  in  1425,  but  the  best  varieties  were  introduced  by  the 
Jesuits  in  the  close  of  the  IGth  century.  I  observed  many  of 
the  vines  trained  on  chestnut-trees ;  but  the  impression  is  enter- 
tained that  the  grape  is  better  when  grown  near  to  the  earth. 
The  vintage  occurs  early  in  September.  The  usual  rate  of  pro- 
duction is  calculated  in  good  seasons  at  a  pipe  of  wine  to  the 
acre.  The  inferior  wines  are  sent  in  large  amounts  to  Ham- 
burg and  Cologne,  where,  under  the  hands  of  doctors,  it  is  made 
into  hock,  and  sent  over  Europe  and  to  America. 

Very  many  of  the  wines  here  raised  are  rarely  seen  off  the 
island.     The  principal  wines  of  Madeira  are  as  follows : 

Malmsey,  a  light-colored  wine,  made  from  a  large  oval  grape, 
which,  when  ripe,  is  of  golden  hue ;  its  bunches  are  thin  and 
long.  The  best  wine  of  this  grade  is  made  on  estates  belonging 
formerly  to  the  Jesuits.  It  is  difficult  to  raise  the  vine,  as  a 
little  fog  or  dampness  destroys  the  flower.  This  is  the  costliest 
wine  of  the  island,  and  is  worth  about  four  hundred  dollars  a 
pipe  on  the  spot. 

Biial.  —  This  is  a  delicate  wine,  produced  from  a  round,  straw- 
colored  grape,  the  size  of  a  small  marble.  This'  grape  is  now 
scarce,  and  the  wine  is  very  high. 

Sercial  is  a  dry,  light-colored  wine,  produced  from  the  round 
hock   grape,  which  hangs  in  thick   clusters.     This  wine   must 


WINES  —  FRUITS   AND   VEGETABLES.  343 

obtain  considerable  age  to  become  acceptable  to  the  palate.  The 
grape  is  never  eaten  ;  its  price  is  high. 

Tinta  or  Madeira  Burgundy.  —  This  is  made  from  the  small 
black  Burgundy  grape.  It  receives  its  rich  claret  color  from 
the  husks  of  the  grape,  which  are  left  in  the  casks  during  fer- 
mentation. This  wine  is  best  when  newly  made,  and  after  two 
years  loses  its  aroma.  Its  value  has  been  from  three  hundred  to 
three  hundred  and  fifty  dollars  a  pipe. 

Tijito  is  a  dark  wine  from  the  Negra  Molle  grape,  which  is 
larger  than  the  Burgundy.  It  is  used  with  others  in  the  com- 
position of  Madeira  wine. 

Madeira.  —  This  is  the  great  wine  of  the  island.  It  is  made 
from  a  combination  of  grapes.  When  new,  it  is  of  a  light 
claret,  violet  hue ;  but  this  subsides  as  it  advances  to  maturity. 
This  wine  is  usually  sent  on  a  voyage  to  the  East  or  West  Indies, 
and  takes  its  name  accordingly  in  the  markets.  It  has  generally 
commanded  on  the  island  from  one  hundred  to  two  hundred  and 
sixty  dollars  a  pipe. 

Besides  these,  there  are  Verdelho,  Palhete,  Surdo  and  Nc- 
grino  wines. 

All  the  wines  of  Madeira  require  an  equable  temperature. 

The  fruits  and  vegetables  of  Madeira  are  fine  and  abundant. 
Oranges,  lemons,  citron,  coffee,  arrow-root,  the  guava,  banana, 
custard-apple,  mango,  peaches,  pomegranates,  apricots,  figs,  and 
most  of  the  fruits  of  temperate  climates.  The  sweet  potato  is 
largely  produced,  and  its  leaves  are  given  to  cattle.  The  tea- 
plant  has  been  raised  by  Mr.  Veitch  at  his  quinta,  near  the  mag- 
nificent and  sublime  Curral,  at  an  elevation  of  two  thousand 
seven  hundred  feet  above  the  sea. 

I  was  much  gratified  by  seeing  several  new  descriptions  of 
trees.  The  Til ;  —  this  is  the  laurus  fceteiis,  and  when  cut,  it 
smells  like  sulphureted  hydrogen.  Age  and  exposure  turns  it 
of  a  beautiful  black  color.  The  Vinhalico,  or  island  mahogany, 
is  highly  valued  for  cabinet  work.     The  dragon-tree  is  nearly 


344  VEGETABLES  —  PLAXT3  —  BIRDS  —  FISH. 

extinct.  The  palm  is  not  very  comnjon,  but  here  and  there  I 
saw  some  aged  ones.  It  needs,  according  to  Humboldt,  a  mean 
temperature  of  80°  or  81°.  The  aloe  and  prickly  pear  I  found 
everywhere  in  luxuriant  vegetation. 

I  ought  not  to  omit  naming  a  vegetable  which  Mr.  Yates 
placed  on  our  table,  and  to  which  he  directed  our  attention.  It 
was  the  Tchu-tchu  (Sechium  edule),  called  also  by  the  people 
pepinclla.  It  is  a  small  gourd,  very  much  like  vegetable  mar- 
row ;  one  seed  covers  a  wall  with  its  ramifications. 

This  is  the  very  home  of  Flora.  I  have  already  named 
camellias  of  twenty  feet  in  height,  and  I  afterwards  saw  them 
still  higher.  The  fuchsias  grow  into  perpetual  hedges.  In 
every  garden  we  were  charmed  with  the  fragrance  arising  from 
old  favorites  and  newly-discovered  friends.  Magnolias  were 
very  fine,  and  in  bloom.  We  noticed  the  Solandra  datura, 
Judas-tree,  spike  coral,  the  turpentine-tree,  oleanders,  euphor- 
bia, the  hibiscus,  &c. 

It  was  pleasant  to  observe  the  English  black-bird  here,  and  to 
listen  to  its  cheerful  note.  Here,  too,  is  the  green  canary,  —  the 
primal  ancestor  of  the  yellow  variety.  It  is  found  here  in  flocks 
with  other  birds.  The  English  goldfinch  is  very  common.  Par- 
tridges and  quails  are  scarce;  the  woodcock  is  more  common. 
Humming-birds  were  in  every  garden,  and  on  every  trellis. 

In  the  fish-market  I  saw  the  tunny,  of  large  size;  the  red  and 
gray  mullet,  and  many  kinds  which  were  new  to  me.  The  turtle 
taken  here  is  not  the  green  turtle;  and  one  we  purchased  did  not 
seem  at  all  equal  to  the  West  India  ones  at  home. 

I  was  exceedingly  pleased  with  the  appearance  and  deport- 
ment of  the  common  people  at  Funchal  and  the  vicinity.  Men, 
women  and  children,  however  poorly  clad,  were  all  clean.  Some- 
times the  clothes  were  so  patched  that  it  was  difficult  to  say  what 
had  been  the  original  texture  of  the  garment.  Owing  to  the 
warmth  of  the  climate,  a  shirt  and  pantaloons,  without  shoes,  is 
all  that  a  boy  requires. 


DEl'AllTURE    FROM    MADEIRA.  345 

At  four  o'clock  in  the  afternoon  we  left  this  most  enchanting 
island,  amid  the  farewells  of  a  vast  multitude,  who  crowded  the 
beach  and  wished  us  "a  pleasant  voyage,"  and  told  us  truthfully 
that  they  hoped  to  see  us  again.  I  do  not  think  that  we  touched 
at  any  place  where  we  were  the  means  of  doing  the  people  so 
much  real  good  as  at  Fanchal.  We  all  made  large  purchases, 
and  the  poor  folks  who  live  by  manufacturing  baskets,  mats, 
feather-work  and  cabinet-ware,  seldom,  I  fancy,  find  such  a  set 
of  customers.  Mr.  Borden  and  others  said  that  it  was  a  provi- 
dential affair  to  many  of  the  poor  people,  and  would  help  to 
make  them  comfortable  through  the  winter.  Most  certainly,  if 
I  had  no  duty  to  keep  me  at  home,  I  know  of  no  place  where  I 
should  so  like  to  pass  a  winter  as  at  Funchal.  I  could  not  leave 
it  without  a  hope  that  I  might  see  it  again,  and  yet  this  is  vastly 
improbable ;  but  its  mountain  range  is  impressed  forever  in  my 
recollection. 

28^ 


CHAPTER    XXIV. 

LEAVE     rjNCHAL APPEARANCE     OF     THE     ISLAND SKIRT     THE    SHORE 

ROUGH    WEAXnER LITE    STOCK A    WRECK    DISCOVERED FLYING-FISH 

SANDY  HOOK SALUTATIONS  ON  ARRIVAL SUJIMAKY  OF  THE  VOYAGE 

OUR     OBLIGATIONS      TO      MR.     AND     MRS.    VANDERBILT CAPTAIN     EL- 

l; RIDGE    AND    HIS    OFFICERS THE   VOYAGE   A   SOURCE   OF    PRIDE    TO    THE 

COUNTRY. 

September  12,  at  half-past  four  p.  m.,  we  steamed  oiF  from  the 
roadstead  of  Funchal.  The  sun  was  shining  beautifully  through 
dark  clouds  of  singular  shape  resting  upon  the  island.  A 
shower  came  on,  and  almost  immediately  we  were  delighted  with 
a  most  brilliant  double  rainbow.  One  foot  of  the  exterior  arch 
rested  upon  the  very  edge  of  the  water,  and  the  bow  bathed  the 
back-ground  of  ravine  and  mountain  in  rich  and  varied  dyes. 
This  is  the  second  instance  we  have  observed  of  double  bows 
appearing  as  we  have  left  port.  The  other  one  occurred  at  our 
departure  from  Copenhagen.  Our  course  was  shaped  by  Cap- 
tain Eldridge  close  along  shore,  so  that  we  might  have  good 
views  of  the  grand  coast  scenery  of  this  beautiful  island. 

The  back-ground  of  the  town,  running  up  to  about  five  thou- 
sand five  hundred  feet,  now  showed  finely,  and  presented  a  map- 
like delineation  of  its  terraced  villas  and  gardens.  On  the  shore 
of  Funchal  stands  a  lofty  pillar,  which  was  erected  in  1796-8, 
by  an  English  merchant,  for  the  purpose  of  landing  goods  from 
ships.  This,  however,  has  proved  a  failure.  It  stood  originally 
in  the  very  margin  of  the  sea,  and  now  it  is  considerably  inland, 
indicating  the  receding  of  the  ocean  during  the  last  half-century. 
The  Loo  Rock,  which  in  the  engraving  looks  merely  like  a  pro- 
jecting fort,  is  really  an  island,  and  has  a  channel  between  it 


LEAVE    rUNCIIAL  —  APPEARANCE    OE   THE    ISLAND.    347 

and  (lie  po  lit  of  land.  Now  wc  had  a  good  view  again  of  the 
governor's  pahice,  which  is  seen  over  the  Loo  Rock,  rising  behind 
the  gardens  of  the  Praca  da  Rainha.  It  is  called  the  Fortaleza, 
and  looks  very  much  like  an  extensive  barrack. 

And  now  from  Ponta  da  Cruz  wc  obtained  fresh  glimpses  of 
the  island,  as  we  passed  slowly  along.  The  chief  point  of 
interest  was  Camera  de  Lobos,  and  then  a  little  west  of  this 
the  back-ground  was  very  lofty,  and  broken  in  the  finest  manner. 
The  tops  of  these  mountain  peaks  seemed  vanishing  in  hazy  dis- 
tance, and  against  the  dark  masses  of  cliiF  and  wood  I  could 
see  the  wing  of  the  sea-gull  flashing  in  the  sunshine.  Next,  we 
came  upon  the  opening  made  on  the  shore  by  the  mountain 
streams,  and  around  these  the  coast  broke  into  jagged  masses 
like  clouds,  and  afforded  picturesque  and  startling  scenery,  in 
which  the  precipitous  crag  and  roaring  surge  awakened  sublime 
emotions. 

The  little  town  of  Magdalena,  on  the  very  edge  of  the  ocean, 
with  its  neat  little  church  and  its  forest-crowned  hills,  richly 
gilded  by  the  western  sun,  delighted  us  all  as  we  gazed  upon  it 
in  our  too  hasty  passage.  Calheta  was  the  last  hamlet  we  could 
recognize  clearly,  and  now  we  lay  off  our  course  for  New  York 
by  the  southern  passage,  making  west-half-north  till  we  made 
latitude  35  N.,  longitude  52  W. ;  then  west  by  north-half-north 
to  latitude  37,  longitude  G4  ;  thence  west-north-west. 

As  soon  as  we  passed  beyond  the  west  end  of  the  island,  we 
found  a  head  sea  and  heavy  swell.  The  night  was  a  very  un- 
pleasant one,  and  probably  the  ladies  suffered  more  than  on  any 
other  occasion  during  the  whole  voyage.  This  weather  lasted 
for  two  days,  and  the  wind  kept  steady  from  the  north-east. 
The  first  three  days,  we  made  our  way  running  only  two  boilers, 
but  then  put  on  all  four. 

The  14th  was  a  charming  evening,  and  we  had  a  good  quiet 
night,  which  brought  all  hands  to  the  breakfast-table.  We  had 
several  additions  about  this  time  made  to  our  live  stock  from  the 


348  LIVE   STOCK  —  A   WEECK  —  FLYING-FISH. 

sheep  taken  on  board  at  Gibraltar,  which  gave  us  four  or  five 
lambs.  Of  these  every  possible  care  was  taken,  but  in  vain ;  the 
bad  weather  was  more  than  they  could  manage  to  bear  up 
against;  and  now  a  worse  misfortune  befell  us,  in  having  all  our 
beef  taken  on  board  at  Madeira  prove  unfit  for  use.  However, 
we  had  other  stores  to  make  good  this  loss ;  but  it  was  provoking 
to  see  so  much  good  provision  become  worthless. 

The  15th  was  a  fine  day,  and  our  four  boilers  now  carried  us 
along  at  a  rapid  rate.  Sunday,  18th,  was  a  rough  day;  every 
one  seemed  to  feel  under  the  influence  of  the  storm,  though  very 
few  were  sick.  The  motion  of  the  ship  was  unpleasant,  and  we , 
generally  voted  it  to  be  a  mean  kind  of  time.  This  was  the  only 
Sabbath  at  sea  on  which  divine  service  was  not  held,  and  its  non- 
observance  to-day  was  owing  to  my  indisposition  from  severe  head- 
ache. The  deepest  interest  was  awakened  in  all  on  board  by  a 
report  made  whilst  we  were  at  dinner  that  a  wreck  was  in  sight. 
Captain  Eldridge  immediately  altered  our  course,  and  bore  down 
for  it.  On  coming  up  to  the  hulk,  it  appeared  to  be  the  wreck  of 
a  ship  which  must  have  long  been  bufi"eting  the  ocean  wave ;  her 
decks  were  broken  up,  but  her  chains  still  lay  on  board.  Her 
stanchions  really  looked  like  men  standing  up,  and  at  a  dis- 
tance we  all  supposed  that  they  were  two  or  three  men  on  deck. 

Monday,  19th,  was  stormy.  One  of  our  gentlemen  this  day 
lost  his  hat  overboard.  The  water  of  the  ocean  was  now  tested 
by  the  thermometer,  and  gave  81°  2'.  We  were  greatly  amused 
with  immense  quantities  of  flying-fish,  several  of  which  were 
caught  forwards.  For  several  days  we  were  surrounded  by  these 
pretty  fish,  and  some  of  them  made  quite  long  flights.  Almost 
all  our  course  was  through  masses  of  sea-weed,  which  abounds 
in  the  Gulf  Stream. 

The  20th  was  a  fine  day,  and  our  firemen,  who  were  much 
exhausted  with  the  weather,  made  noble  efi'orts.  Our  progress 
this  day  was  three  hundred  and  six  miles.  I  was  greatly  amused 
with  an  animated  discussion  between  two  of  our  party  on  the 


SANDY   HOOK.  349 

I 
character  ;f  the  weather  which  we  had  experienced  on  our  entire 
voyage.  One,  who  had  never  been  at  sea  before,  reckoned  up 
sixteen  j.ays  of  bad  weather ;  the  other,  who  had  often  crossed 
the  ocean,  thought  there  had  not  been  one  bad  day.  I  confess 
that,  though  I  think  we  had  a  few  unpleasant  days,  I  did  not 
remember  one  that  I  should  call  a  regular  storm.  On  our  pas- 
sage through  the  Gulf  Stream  we  had  three  or  four  squalls  of 
considerable  force ;  but  I  have  seen  far  worse  weather  in  the 
same  region  ;  so  that  I  was  quite  content  to  allow  this  passage  to 
pass  as  a  pretty  fair  one. 

Some  of  the  party  had  at  Gibraltar  thought  of  dear  friends 
at  home,  and  purchased  the  best  grapes  the  market  would  afford, 
and  these  were  carefully  packed  up  in  casks.  One  was  now 
opened,  to  see  how  the  experiment  had  succeeded,  when  the  pro- 
prietors were  vexed  to  find  that  they  were  packed  up  in  pine 
sawdust,  and  were  thoroughly  impregnated  with  turpentine  !  In 
other  respects  they  had  kept  tolerably  well. 

Until  Thursday,  22d,  we  saw  very  few  vessels.  For  days  we 
had  seen  but  two  or  three,  and  they  were  standing  east ;  but  now 
we  felt  that  we  were  homeward  bound,  and  all  around  us  were 
ships,  brigs  and  schooners,  standing  in  for  a  port  which,  like 
ourselves,  they  longed  to  make,  but  not  with  our  speed.  Passing 
them  all  by,  we  felt  our  advantage  in  the  possession  of  that 
mighty  power  which  has  revolutionized  the  state  of  the  world. 

Friday,  23d,  at  early  daylight,  we  made  the  light  at  Sandy 
Hook,  and,  without  waiting  for  a  pilot,  we  gradually  approached 
the  shores  of  our  beloved  land.  Staten  Island  looked  as  lovely 
as  ever,  and  she  is  one  of  the  sweetest  spots  upon  our  globe. 
Travel  where  he  may,  the  voyager  fails  to  find  a  place  where  all 
the  comforts  and  elegance  of  life  are  more  profusely  concentrated 
than  on  this  island-suburb  of  the  great  metropolis  of  America. 

Just  as  we  passed  the  residence  of  Mr.  Vanderbilt's  mother, 
a  salute  was  fired,  and  a  boat  boarded  us  from  the  quarantine, 
reporting  good  news  for  all  on  board.     At  the  wharf  lay  the 


350 


ARRIVAL   AT   NEW   YORK. 


Huncliback  steamboat,  and  as  we  passed  her  the  cheering  of 
welcome  home  fell  on  Mr.  Vanderbilt's  ears  from  those  on  board 
who  had  known  him  in  all  his  career  of  life,  —  from  a  lad  labor- 
ing for  daily  bread,  up  to  the  moment  when,  as  a  merchant 
prince,  he  was  returning  from  a  voyage  in  his  own  steam  yacht 
to  almost  every  great  port  of  Europe,  having  received  the  respect* 
and  admiration  of  the  Old  World  as  the  successful  architect  of 
his  own  fortunes.  We  went  off  from  the  island  side  by  side 
with  the  Hunchback,  and  in  going  up  the  bay  received  the 
hearty  salutations  of  every  ship  and  steamer  that  we  met.  We 
steamed  up  the  North  river,  and  were  saluted  by  the  Cunard 
boat  at  Jersey  city,  the  Collins  steamer  at  Canal-street,  and  then 
rounding,  we  went  past  the  Battery,  where  hundreds  were  gath- 
ered and  on  the  neighboring  wharves,  and  then  went  up  the  East 
river,  and,  at  about  two  o'clock,  brought  up  at  the  spot  whence 
we  originally  departed,  in  front  of  the  Allaire  works.  On  the 
dock  were  kind  friends  and  beloved  relatives,  and  soon  they  stood 
upon  our  deck,  and  I  almost  felt  that  the  entire  four  months  of 
absence  was  a  dream  !  But  I  soon  learned  a  painful  fact,  that 
convinced  me  that  all  was  a  reality ;  that  the  sweetest  joys 
of  life  are  dashed  with  bitter  waters,  and  that  however  bright 
may  be  the  morning,  the  clouds  may  and  will  often  gather  ere 
the  day  comes  to  a  close. 

There  are  many  items,  which  may,  perhaps,  prove  of  interest 
to  others,  which  are  not  alluded  to  in  my  record.  It  has 
occurred  to  me  that  some  would  like  tc  see  a  summing  up  of  the 
work  done  by  the  North  Star,  and  I  th&;efore  add  an  account  of 
the  miles  steamed  on  our  voyage. 

MILES. 

New  York  to  Southampton         ...  3140 

Trip  round  Isle  of  Wight           ...  73 

Southampton  to  Copenhagen       .         .         .  807 

Copenhagen  to  Cronstadt           .         .         .  655 

Cronstadt  to  Havre           ....  1461 


MR.    AND    MRS.    VANDERBILT. 


851 


Havre  to  Gibraltar 

1200 

Gibraltar  to  Malaga 

60 

Malaga  to  Leghorn 

807 

Leghorn  to  Civita  Vecchia 

120 

Civita  Vecchia  to  Naples 

155 

Naples  to  Malta  . 

340 

Malta  to  Constantinople 

838 

Constantinople  to  Gibraltar 

.      1838 

Gibraltar  to  Madeira    . 

.       600 

Madeira  to  New  York 

2930 

Total 


15024 


We  were  actually  engaged  in  sailing  fifty-eight  days,  making 
our  average  of  speed  to  rate  at  two  hundred  and  fifty-nine  miles 
per  diem,  or  within  a  fraction.  On  the  entire  voyage,  our  con- 
sumption of  coal  amounted  to  two  thousand  two  hundred  tons, 
averaging  twenty-eight  tons  daily.  It  has  rarely  happened  to 
any  but  those  of  our  own  party  that  it  could  be  said,  "  We  have 
been  in  the  four  quarters  of  the  world  in  twenty-eight  days ;  " 
yet  this  was  the  case  with  our  yacht. 

I  cannot  close  this  narrative  of  days  precious  to  memory  with- 
out expressing  my  gratitude  to  Mr.  Vanderbilt  for  his  uniform 
kindness  and  delicate  attentions  to  me  as  an  individual  during 
the  whole  excursion ;  nor  would  I  forget  to  mention  how,  every 
day,  every  one  on  board  was  made  to  see  and  feel  the  excellent 
qualities  of  his  lady,  whose  uniform  amiable  spirit  was  the  regu- 
lator of  the  circle.  I  do  not  believe  that  it  is  possible  for  a 
party  of  twenty-five  persons  to  spend  four  months  in  such  close 
and  daily  intercourse  with  less  of  collision  or  loss  of  feeling  and 
temper  than  was  seen  in  our  whole  excursion.  I  am  sure  that 
when  we  landed  at  New  York  one  of  our  pleasantest  hopes  was 
that  we  might  often  meet  in  future  life,  to  revive  the  memory  of 
events  which  have  marksd  our  lives  in  1853. 


352  CAPTAIN    ELDRIDGE    AND    OFFICERS. 

Every  one  on  board  the  yacht  felt  the  amount  of  indebtedness 
under  which  he  labored  to  Captain  Eldridge,  whose  nautical 
skill  is  only  equalled  by  his  cheerful-hearted  every-day  kindness. 
I  do  not  exaggerate  his  merits  when  I  say  that  those  who  have 
seen  him  navigate  the  Mediterranean,  where  he  had  never  been, 
and  enter  ports  without  a  pilot,  are  quite  satisfied  that  an  abler 
seaman  never  trod  a  quarter-deck.  Long  may  he  live,  an  honor 
to  his  profession,  and  the  object  of  regard  to  his  friends!  Mrs. 
Eldridge,  I  will  simply  remark,  will  have  through  our  lives  our 
highest  respect,  to  which  her  admirable  good  sense  and  virtues 
entitle  her.  Our  friends  Messrs.  Cope,  Peterson  and  Germaine, 
will  always  be  remembered  by  us  with  respect. 

The  gentlemen  of  the  party,-  under  a  sense  of  obligation  to 
the  officers  of  the  North  Star,  decided  to  present  a  silver  tea 
service  to  Captain  Eldridge,  and  a  gold  watch  to  each  of  the 
previously-naraed  gentlemen,  and  also  to  Mr.  Lamer,  the  excel- 
lent steward. 

The  presentation  of  the  silver  service  to  the  captain  took 
place  at  Mr.  Vanderbilt's  house  in  December,  on  a  very  pleasant 
reunion  of  the  North  Star  party,  when  it  was  handed  to  him, 
and  an  address  made  by  N.  B.  Labau,  Esq.,  on  behalf  of  the 
gentlemen. 

Mr.  John  Keefe,  our  purser,  was,  perhaps,  more  constantly 
with  our  party  than  any  one  of  the  other  members  of  the  ship's 
company.  He  was  always  attentive  and  obliging,  was  a  most 
observant  traveller,  picked  up  a  vast  amount  of  new  ideas,  and 
very  often  made  remarks  which  I  shall  remember  as  long  as  1 
live.  If  his  numerous  friends  who  visit  him  at  his  establishment 
in  Broadway  do  not  get  amused  by  his  stories  of  foreign  travel, 
while  regaled  with  his  delicacies,  I  am  much  mistaken. 

Much  of  the  comfort  of  the  ladies  depended  upon  the  good 
temper  and  willingness  of  the  stewardess ;  and  I  am  very  sure 
that  none  of  the  ladies  would  forgive  me  if  I  did  not  say  that 


VOYAGE   SOURCE   OP   NATIONAL    PRIDE.  353 

Harriet  Johnson  was  always  kind  and  cheerful.     Her  ready  wit 
and  pleasant  jokes  I  do  not  forget. 

Tiie  press  of  the  country,  with  one  or  two  exceptions,  spoke 
favorably  of  the  project ;  and  in  several  of  the  papers  of  the 
day  letters  were  published  from  various  members  of  the  party. 
Mr.  W.  H.  Vanderbilt  wrote  a  very  interesting  series,  which 
appeared  in  the  Staten  IslaTider. 

I  do  not  believe  that  such  a  cruise  as  we  made  in  the  steam 
yacht  North  Star, was  ever  attempted  before;  and  I  much  doubt 
if,  under  all  the  same  circumstances  of  splendor  and  enjoyment, 
it  will  ever  be  again  undertaken. 

It  is,  I  know,  to  American  citizens  generally,  a  matter  of 
proud  satisfaction,  that  a  private  individual  has  thus  shown  the 
mechanical  skill  and  ability  of  our  country  to  almost  every 
nation  in  Europe ;  and  it  must  be  a  subject  of  pleasure  to  Mr. 
Vanderbilt  to  reflect  that  his  enterprise,  so  nobly  conceived,  was 
satisfactorily  carried  out  and  happily  consummated. 
29 


IMPORTANT 

LITERARY   AND   SCIENTIFIC  WORKS 


PUBLISHED     BY 


GOULD     AND     LINCOLN, 

59  WASHINGTON  STREET,  BOSTON, 


ANNUAL  OF  SCIENTIFIC   DISCOVERY ;    or,  Year  Book  of  Facts 

ill  Science  and  Art,  exhihiting  the  most  important  Discoveries  and  Iniprovcinents  in 
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of  recent  Scientific  Puhlications,  a  classified  list  of  Patents,  Obituaries  of  eminent  Scien- 
tii«  Men,  an  Index  of  important  Papers  in  Scientific  Journals,  Reports,  &c.  Edited  by 
David  A  Wells,  A.  M.    12mo,  cloth,  1,25 

This  work,  commenced  in  the  year  1850,  and  issued  on  the  first  of  March  annually,  contains  all 
important  facts  discovered  or  announced  during  the  year.  Each  volume  is  distinct  in  itself,  and  con- 
tains entirehi  new  matter,  with  a  fine  portrait  of  some  distinguished  scientific  man.  As  it  is  not  in- 
tended exclusively  for  scientific  men,  but  to  meet  the  wants  of  the  general  reader,  it  has  been  the  aim 
of  the  editor  that  tlie  articles  should  be  brief,  and  intelligible  to  all.  The  editor  has  received  tlie  appro- 
bation, counsel,  and  personal  contributions  of  the  prominent  scientific  men  throughout  the  country. 

THE  FOOTPRINTS  OF  THE  CREATOR ;  or,  The  Asterolepis  of 
Stroniness.  With  numerous  Illustrations.  C.\  IIUGH  MiLLER,  author  of"  The  Old  Red 
Sandstone,"  &,c.  From  the  third  London  Edition.  With  a  Memoir  of  the  Author,  by 
Louis  Agassiz.    12mo,  cloth,  1,00. 

Dr.  BiTCKLANn,  at  a  meeting  of  the  British  Association,  said  he  had  never  been  so  much  aston- 
ished in  his  life,  by  the  powers  of  any  men,  as  he  had  been  by  the  geological  descriptions  of  Mr.  Miller. 
That  wonderful  man  described  these  objects  with  a  facility  which  made  him  ashamed  of  the  com- 
parative meiigrupess  and  poverty  of  his  own  descriptions  in  the  "  Bridgewater  Treatise,"  which  had 
cost  him  hours  and  daj's  of  labor.  He  would  give  his  left  hand  to  possess  siich  powers  of  description 
as  this  man  :  and  if  it  pleased  Providence  to  spare  his  useful  life,  he,  if  any  one,  would  certainly  ren- 
der science  attractive  and  popular,  and  do  equal  service  to  theology  and  geologj'. 

Mr.  Miller's  style  is  remarkably  pleasing ;  his  mode  of  popularizing  geological  knowledge  unsur- 
passed, perhaps  unequalled;  and  the  deep  reverence  for  divine  revelation  perv.ading  all  adds  inter- 
est and  value  to  the  volume.  —  2V.  y.  Com.  Advertiser. 

The  publishers  have  again  covered  themselves  with  honor,  by  giving  to  the  American  public,  with 
the  author's  permission,  an  elegant  reprint  of  a  foreign  work  of  science.  We  earnestly  bespeak  for 
this  work  a  wide  and  free  circulation  among  all  who  love  science  much  and  religion  more. —  Purl- 
I'lii  Hecorder. 

THE  OLD  RED  SANDSTONE;  or.  New  Walks  in  an  Old  Field.  By 
Hugh  Miller.     Illustrated  with  Plates  and  Geological  Sections.     12ino,  cloth,  1,00. 

Mr.  Miller's  exceedingly  interesting  book  on  this  formation  is  inst  the  sort  of  work  to  render  any 
subject  popular.  It  is  written  in  a  remarkably  pleasing  style,  and  contains  a  wonderful  amount  of 
riiforniation.  —  Wrstminster  Review. 

It  is,  withal,  one  of  the  most  beautiful  specimens  of  English  composition  to  be  found,  conveying 
information  nn  a  most  difficult  and  profound  science,  in  a  style  at  once  novel,  pleasing,  and  elegant. 
It  contains  the  results  of  twenty  years'  close  observation  and  experiment,  resulting  in  an  accumulation 
of  facts  which  not  only  dissipate  some  dark  and  knotty  old  theories  with  regard  to  ancient  formations, 
but  establish  the  great  truths  of  geology  in  mere  perfect  and  harmonious  consistency  with  the  great 
trutht  of  revelation.  —  Albany  Spectator.  A 


VALUABLE    SCIENTIFIC    WORKS. 


A  TREATISE  ON  THE  COMPARATIVE  ANATOMY  OF  THE 
Animal  Kingdom.  By  Profs.  C.  Th.  Von  Siebold  and  H.  Stannius.  Translated 
from  tlie  Geniiaii,  wiili  ,\  tp-!,  Additions,  &c.,  By  Waldo  J.  Bi;r\ett,  .M.  D.,  Boston. 
Two  volumes,  octavo,  clotli. 

This  is  unquestionably  the  best  and  most  complete  work  of  its  class  yet  published ;  and  its  appear- 
ance in  an  Enij^hsJi  dress,  with  tlie  corrections,  improvements,  additions,  etc.,  of  tlie  American  Editor, 
will  no  doubt  be  welcomed  by  the  men  of  science  in  this  country  and  in  Europe,  from  whence  or- 
ders for  supplies  of  the  work  have  been  received. 

THE  rOETRY  OF  SCIENCE  ;  or.  the  rhysical  Phenomena  of  Nature. 
By  Robert  Hunt,  Author  of"  Panthea,"  "  Researches  of  Light,"  &c.  12mo,  clotli,  1,25. 

We  are  heartily  glad  to  see  this  interesting  work  republished  in  America.  It  is  a  book  that  is  a 
book.  —  Scientific  Americatu 

It  is  one  of  the  most  readable,  interesting,  and  instructive  works  of  the  kind  that  we  have  ever 
seen.  —  Fhil.  Christian  Observer. 

THE  NATURAL  HISTORY  OF  THE  SPECIES :  its  Typieal  Forms 
and  Primeval  Di.'tribution.  By  Charles  Hamilton  Pmith.  With  an  Iiitrodtiction, 
contaiuing  an  Abstract  of  the  Views  of  Ehinienbach,  Prichard,  Bachman,  Agassiz,  and 
other  writers  of  repute.  By  Samuel,  Kneeland,  Jr.,  M.  D.  With  elegant  Illustra- 
tions.    12mo,  cloth,  1,25. 

The  history  of  the  species  is  thoroughly  considered  by  Colonel  Smith,  with  regard  to  its  origin, 
tj-pical  forms,  distribution,  filiations,  &c.  The  marks  of  practical  good  sense,  careful  observation, 
and  deep  research  are  displayed  in  every  page.  An  introductory  essay  of  some  seventy  or  eighty 
pages  forms  a  valuable  addition  to  the  work.  It  comprises  an  abstract  of  the  opinions  advocated  by 
the  most  eminent  writers  on  the  subject.  The  statements  are  made  with  strict  impartiality,  and, 
withouta  comment,  left  to  the  judgment  of  the  reader.  —  Sartain's  Maijuzine. 

This  work  exhibits  great  research,  as  well  as  an  evident  taste  and  talent,  on  the  part  of  tlie  author, 
for  tlie  study  of  the  history  of  man,  upon  zoological  principles.  It  is  a  book  of  learning,  and  full  of 
interest,  and  may  be  regarded  as  among  the  comparatively  few  real  contributions  to  science,  that 
sen'c  to  redeem,  in  some  measure,  the  mass  of  useless  stuft"  under  which  the  press  groans.  —  Chris. 
}V.itncss. 

This  book  is  characterized  by  more  curious  and  interesting  research  tlian  any  one  that  has  recently 
come  under  our  examination.  —  Albany  Journal  and  Register. 

It  contains  a  learned  and  thorough  treatment  of  an  important  subject,  always  interesting,  and  of 
late  attracting  more  than  usual  attention.  —  Ch.  Register. 

The  volume  before  us  is  one  of  the  best  of  the  publishers'  series  of  publications,  replete  with  rare 
and  v.'duable  information,  presented  in  a  style  at  once  clear  and  entertJiining,  illustrated  in  the  most 
copious  manner  with  plates  of  all  the  various  forms  of  the  human  race,  tracing  with  the  most  minute 
precision  analogies  and  resemblances,  and  hence  oricin.  The  more  it  is  read,  the  more  widely  opens 
this  field  of  research  before  the  mind,  again  and  again  to  be  returned  to,  with  fresh  zest  and  satisfac- 
tion. It  is  the  result  of  the  researches,  collections,  and  labors  of  a  long  and  Taluable  lifetime,  present- 
ed in  the  most  popular  form  imaginable.  —  Albany  Spectator. 

LAKE  SUPERIOR :  its  Physical  Character,  Vegetation,  and  Animals, 
compared  with  those  of  other  and  similar  reirioiis.  By  L.  Agassiz,  and  Contributions 
from  other  eminent  Scientific  Gentlemen.  With  a  Narrative  of  the  E,\pcdition,  and 
Hlustrations.     By  J.  E.  Cabot.     One  volume,  octavo,  elegantly  illustrated.   Cloth,  3,50. 

The  illustrations,  seventeen  in  number,  are  in  the  iine.=t  style  of  the  art,  by  Sonrel ;  embracing 
lake  and  landscape  scenery,  fishes,  and  other  objects  of  natural  histoiy,  with  an  outline  map  of  Lake 
Superior. 

This  work  is  one  ofthe  most  valuahlc-  scientific  works  thathas  appeared  in  this  country.  Embody- 
ing the  researches  of  our  best  scientific  men  relating  to  a  hitherto  comparatively  unknown  region, 
it  Trill  be  found  to  contain  a  great  amount  of  scientific  information.  B 


GUYOT'S    WORKS. 


THE  EARTH  AND  MAN.  Lectures  on  Comparativk  Physical 
Geography,  in  its  relation  to  tlie  History  of  Mankind.  By  Piof.  Arnold  Goyot. 
Translated  from  tlie  French,  by  Prof.  C  C.  Felton,  witli  numerous  Illustrations. 
Eighth  thousand.     12mo,  cloth,  1,25. 

From  Prof  Loms  Agnssiz,  of  Harvard  University. 

It  will  not  only  ri'iKtcr  V.\'^'  stuJy  of  Geography  more  attractive,  but  actually  show  it  in  its  true  light, 
namely,  as  tlR' science  of  the  relations  whiuh  exist  between  natuieand  mm  thron.-'ioni  Ir.stiiry  ;  of 
the  contrasts  observed  between  the  different  parts  of  the  globe;  of  the  laws  of  horizontal  and  vertical 
forms  of  the  dry  land,  in  its  contact  with  the  sea;  of  chmate,  &c.  It  would  be  highly  serviceable,  U 
seems  to  me.  for  tlie  benefit  of  schools  and  teachers,  that  you  should  induce  Mr.  Guyot  to  write  a  sc- 
ries of  graduated  text  books  of  geography,  from  the  first  elements  up  to  a  scientifie  treatise.  It  would 
give  new  life  to  these  studies  in  this  country,  and  be  the  best  preparation  for  sound  statistical  invcsti- 
gatious. 

From  George  S.  Hillard.  Esq.,  of  Boston. 

Professor  Gayot's  Lectures  are  marked  by  learning,  ability,  and  taste.  His  bold  and  comprehen- 
sive generalizations  rest  upon  a  careful  foundation  of  facts.  The  essential  value  of  his  statements  is 
enlmnceil  by  his  luminous  arrangement,  and  by  a  vein  of  philosophical  reflection  which  gives  life  and 
dignity  to  diy  details.  To  teachers  of  youth  it  will  be  especially  important.  They  may  learn  from  it 
how  to  make  Geography,  which  I  recall  as  the  least  interesting  of  studies,  one  of  the  most  attractive  ■, 
and  I  earnestly  commend  it  to  their  careful  consideration. 

Those  who  have  been  accustomed  to  regard  Geography  as  a  merely  descriptive  branch  of  learn - 
ing,  drier  than  the  remainder  biscuit  after  avoyagc,  will  be  delighted  to  find  this  hitherto  unattractive 
pursuit  converted  into  a  science,  the  ijrineiplcs  of  which  are  definite  and  the  results  conclusive.— 
yorth  American  licview. 

The  grand  idea  of  the  work  is  happily  expressed  by  Uie  aut  lOr,  where  he  calls  it  the  gcographtcal 
march  of  Instory.  Faith,  science,  learning,  poetry,  taste,  in  a  word,  genius,  have  liberally  contributed 
to  the  production  of  the  work  under  review  Sometimes  we  feel  as  if  we  were  studying  a  treatise  on 
the  exact  sciences ;  at  others,  it  strikes  the  ear  like  an  epic  poem.  Now  it  reads  like  history,  and  now 
it  sounds  Uke  prophecy.  It  will  find  readers  in  whatever  language  it  may  be  published.—  Christian 
Examiner. 

The  work  is  one  of  high  merit,  exhibiting  a  wide  range  of  knowledge,  great  research,  and  a  philo- 
sophical spirit  of  investigation.  Its  perusal  will  well  repay  the  most  learned  in  sucli  subjects,  and 
give  new  views  to  all  of  man's  relation  to  the  globe  he  inhabits.—  Silliman's  Journal. 

COMPAHATIVE  PHYSICAL  AND  HISTORICAL  GEOGRAPHY; 

or,  the  Study  of  the  Earth  and  its  Inhabitants.     A  scries  of  graduated  courses  for  tlie  use 
of  Schools.    By  Arnold  Guyot,  author  of  "  Earth  and  Man,"  etc. 

The  series  hereby  announced  will  consist  of  three  conrses,  adapted  to  the  capacity  of  three  different 
ages  and  periods  of  study.  The  first  is  intended  for  primary  schools  and  for  children  of  from  seven 
to  ten  years.  The  second  is  adapted  for  higher  schools,  and  for  young  persons  of  from  ten  to  fifteen 
years.    The  third  is  to  be  used  as  a  scientific  manual  in  Academics  and  Colleges. 

Each  course  will  be  divided  into  two  parts,  one  on  purely  Physical  Geography,  the  other  for  Eth- 
nography, Statistics,  Political  and  Historical  Geography.  Each  part  will  be  illustrated  by  a  colored 
Pliysical  and  Political  Atlas,  prepared  expressly  for  this  purpose,  dehneating,  with  the  gi-eatest  care, 
the  configuration  of  the  surface,  and  the  other  physical  phenomena  alluded  to  in  the  corresponding 
work,  the  distribution  of  the  races  of  men,  and  the  political  divisions  into  states,  &c.,  &c. 

The  two  parts  of  the  first  or  preparatory  course  are  now  in  a  forward  state  of  preparation,  and  will 
be  issued  at  an  early  day. 

GUYOT'S  MURAL  MAPS  ;  a  Series  of  elegant  Colored  Maps,  projected 
on  a  large  scale,  for  the  Recitation  Room,  consisting  of  a  Map  of  the  World,  North  and 
South  America,  Europe,  Asia,  Africa.  &c.,  exhibiting  the  Physical  Phenomena  of  tlio 
Globe,  etc.     By  Prof.  ARNOLD  GuYOT.     Price,  mounted,  10,00  each. 

MAP   OF   THE   V/ORLD,-  Now  ready. 

MAP  OF   NORTH  AM  ERICA, -Now  ready. 

MAP   OF  SOUTH   AMERICA, -Nearly  ready. 

MAP  OF  GEOGRAPHICAL  ELEMENTS,  -  Now  ready. 

(trj-  Other  Maps  of  the  Series  are  m  preparation.  C 


VALUABLE   SCIENTIFIC   WORKS. 


PRINCIPLES  OF  ZOOLOGY :  touching  the  Structure,  Development, 
Di.~tribiition,  and  Natural  Arrangement  of  the  Races  of  Animals,  living  and  extinct. 
With  numerous  Illustrations.  For  the  Use  of  Schools  and  Colleges.  Pait  I.,  Compara- 
tive Physiology.  Ry  Louis  Agassiz  and  Augustus  A.  Gould.  Revised 
Edition.     12mo,  cloth,  1,00. 

This  work  places  us  in  possession  of  information  half  a  century  in  advance  of  all  our  elementary 
works  on  this  subject.  .  .  No  work  of  the  same  dimensions  has  ever  appeared  in  the  English  Ian 
guoge  containing  so  much  new  aud  valuable  information  on  the  subject  of  which  it  treats.  -  Pkof. 
Jaiiks  ll.lLL. 

A  work  emanating  from  so  high  a  source  hardly  requires  commendation  to  give  it  currency.  The 
volume  is  prepared  for  the  student  in  zoological  science;  it  is  siinijle  and  elemeutaii  m  its  sly  ii,  tii'.l 
In  its  illustrations,  comprehensive  in  its  range,  yet  well  condensed,  and  brought  into  the  narrow  cmn- 
pass  requisite  for  the  purpose  intended.—  Silhntan's  Journal. 

The  work  may  safely  be  recommended  as  the  best  book  of  the  kind  in  our  language.  -  Chiisttan 
Ejcannner, 

It  is  not  a  mere  book,  but  a  work  -  a  real  work,  m  the  form  of  a  book.  Zoology  is  an  interesting 
science,  and  is  here  treated  with  a  masterly  hand.  The  history,  anatomical  structure,  the  nature  and 
habits  of  numberless  animals,  .ire  described  in  clear  and  plain  language,  and  illustrated  with  innumer- 
able engravings.  It  is  a  work  adapted  to  colleges  and  schools,  and  no  young  man  should  be  without 
it. "  Scientijic  American, 

PRINCIPLES    OF    ZOOLOGY,   PART    II.      Systematic    Zoology,   ia 

whii  li  llio  Prinriplps  <]f  Classilicatinii  are  applied,  and  the  principal  Groups  of  Animals 
are  briefly  characterized.     With  numerous  Illustrations.     l2mo,  in  preparation, 

THE  ELEMENTS  OF  GEOLOGY;  adapted  to  Schools  and  Colleges, 
Willi  iiuuierous  Illustrations.  Dy  J  R.  LooMis,  lato  Professor  of  Chemistry  and  Geology 
in  Wateiville  College.     12mo,  cloth,  1,00 

After  a  thorough  examination  of  the  work,  we  feci  convinced  that  in  all  the  requirements  of  a  text 
book  of  natural  science,  it  is  surpassed  by  no  work  before  the  American  public.  In  this  opinion  we 
believe  the  great  body  of  experienced  teachers  will  concur.  The  work  will  be  found  equally  well 
adiipted  to  the  wants  of  those  who  have  given  little  or  no  attention  to  the  science  in  early  life,  and  are 
desirous  to  become  acquainted  with  its  terms  and  principles,  with  the  least  consumption  of  time  and 
labor.  A\''e  hope  that  every  teacher  among  our  readers  will  examine  the  work  and  put  the  justness 
of  our  remarks  to  the  test  of  his  judgment  and  experience.  —  M.  U.  Axuekson,  Pres.  of  liochester 
Unu-erdfj. 

This  is  just  such  a  work  as  is  needed  for  our  schools.  It  contains  a  systematic  statement  of  the 
principles  of  Geology,  without  entering  into  the  minuteness  of  detail,  which,  though  interesting  to  the 
mature  student,  confuses  the  learner.  It  very  wisely,  also,  avoids  those  controverted  points  which 
mingle  geology  with  questions  of  biblical  criticism.  We  see  no  reason  why  it  should  not  take  its 
place  as  a  text  book  in  all  the  schools  in  the  land.  -  N.  Y.  Observer. 

This  volume  merits  the  attention  of  teachers,  who,  if  we  mistake  not,  will  find  it  better  adapted  to 
their  purpose  than  any  other  simil.Tr  work  of  which  we  have  knowledge.  It  embodies  a  statement 
of  the  principles  of  Geology  sutKcicntly  full  for  the  ordinary  purposes  of  instruction,  with  the  leading 
facts  from  which  they  are  deduced.  It  embraces  the  Intest  results  of  the  science,  and  indicates  the 
debatable  points  of  theoretical  geology.  The  plan  ot  the  work  is  simple  and  clear,  and  the  style  in 
which  it  is  written  is  both  compact  and  lucid.  We  have  special  pleasure  in  welcomiug  its  appearance. 
—  Watchman  and  Reflector. 

This  volume  seems  to  be  just  the  book  now  required  on  geology.  It  will  acquire  rapidly  a  circula- 
tion, and  will  do  much  to  popularize  and  universally  diffuse  a  knowledge  of  geological  truths.  -  Al- 
bany Journal. 

It  gives  u  clear  and  scientific,  yet  simple,  analysis  of  the  main  features  of  the  science.  It  seems,  in 
laniinage  aud  illustration,  admirably  adapted  for  use  as  a  text  book  in  common  schools  and  academies; 
while  it  is  vastly  better  than  any  thing  which  was  used  in  college  in  our  time.  In  all  these  capacities 
we  particularly  and  cordially  recommend  it.  —  Congregationalist,  Boston.  D 


CHAMBERS'S     WORKS. 


CHAMBERS'S   CYCLOrEDIA  OF  ENGLISH   LITERATURE.    A 

Selection  of  the  clioicest  productions  of  English  Authors,  from  the  earliest  to  the  present 
time.  Connected  by  a  Critical  and  Biographical  History.  Forming  two  large  imperial 
octavo  volumes  of  1400  pages,  double  column  letter-press;  with  u|)wards  of  300  elegant 
Illustrations.     Edited  by  Robert  Chambers,  embossed  cloth,  5,00. 

This  work  cmbracea  about  one  thousand  autliors,  chronologically  arranged  and  classed  as  Poets, 
Historians,  Unuuatists,  Pliilosophcrs,  Metaphysicians,  Divine-!,  etc.,  with  choice  selections  from  their 
writings,  connected  by  a  Biographical,  Historical,  and  Critical  Narrative;  tl\us  presenting  a  complete 
view  of  English  literature  froui  tlic  earliest  to  the  present  time.  L.et  the  reader  open  where  he  will, 
he  cannot  fail  to  iind  matter  for  profit  and  deliglit.  The  selections  are  gems  —  infinite  riches  in  a 
little  room;  in  the  language  of  aaiother,  "A  whole  English  Libkary  fused  down  into  onis 

CHEAP  BOOK     " 

From  W.  n.  Prescott.  Author  of  "Ferdinand  and  Isabella."  The  plan  of  the  work  U 
very  judicious.  .  It  will  put  the  reader  in  a  proper  point  of  view  for  surveying  the  whole  ground 
over  which  he  is  travelling.  .  .  .  Sucli  readers  cannot  fail  to  profit  largely  by  the  labors  of  tlie  critic 
wlio  has  the  talent  and  taste  to  separate  what  is  really  beautiful  and  wortliy  of  their  study  from  what 
is  superfluous. 

I  concur  in  the  foregoing  opinion  of  Sir.  Prescott.  —  Edward  Everett. 

A  popular  work,  indispensable  to  the  library  of  a  student  of  English  literature.  — De.  'Wayland. 

We  hail  with  peculiar  pleasure  the  appearance  of  this  work.  —  North  American  Review, 

It  has  been  fitly  described  as  '  a  whole  EnyKA  library  fusec^ down  into  one  cheap  book."  The  Bos- 
ton edition  combines  neatness  with  cheapness,  engraved  portraits  being  given,  over  and  above  the  il- 
lustrations of  the  English  copy.  —  A\  1'.  Commercial  Advertiser. 

Welcome  more  than  welcome "  It  was  our  good  fortune  some  months  ago  to  obtain  a  glance  at  this 
work,  and  we  have  ever  since  looked  with  earnestness  for  its  appearance  in  an  American  edition.  — 
JV.  Y.  Recorder. 

6®-  Tire  American  edition  of  this  valuable  work  is  enriched  by  the  addition  of  fine  steel  and  mezzo- 
tint engravings  of  the  heads  of  Siiakspeake,  Addison,  Byron  ;  a  full  lengtli  portrait  of  Dr.  John- 
son, and  a  beautiful  scenic  representation  of  Oliver  Goldsmith  and  Dr.  Johnson.  These  im- 
portant and  elegant  additions.'together  witli  superior  paper  and  binding,  render  tlie  American  far  su- 
perior to  the  English  edition.  The  circulation  of  this  most  valuable  and  x>oi)uIar  work  has  been  truly 
enormous,  and  its  sale  in  this  country  still  continues  unabated. 

CHAMBERS'S  MISCELLANY  OF  USEFUL  AND  ENTERTAIN- 
ING KNOWLEDGE.  Edited  by  VViLLi.\M  CHAMBERS.  With  Elegant  Illustrative 
Engravings.     Ten  volumes,  lljino,  cloth.  7,U0. 

Thfe  work  has  been  highly  recommended  by  distinguished  individuals,  as  admirably  adapted  to 
Family,  Sabbath,  and  District  School  Libraries. 

It  would  be  difficult  to  find  any  miscellany  superior  or  even  equal  to  it  t  it  richly  deserves  th»  epi- 
tliets  "  useful  and  entertaining,"  and  I  would  recommend  it  very  strongly  as  extremely  well  adapted 
to  form  parts  of  a  library  for  the  young,  or  of  a  social  or  circulating  library  in  town  or  country.  — 
George  B.  Emerson,  Esq.,  Chairman  Boston  School  Book  Committee. 

I  am  gratified  to  have  an  opportunity  to  be  instrumental  in  circulating  "  Chambers's  Miscellany  " 
among  the  schools  for  which  I  am  superintendent.  —  J.  J.  Cluie,  Town.  Sup.  ofCasileton,  A'.  Y. 

I  am  fully  satisfied  that  it  is  one  of  the  best  series  In  our  common  school  libraries  now  in  circula- 
tion.     S.  T.  Uance,  Town  Sup.  of  Macedon,  Wayne  Co.,  A".  Y. 

The  trustees  have  examined  the  "  Miscellany,"  and  arc  well  pleased  with  it.  I  have  engaged  the 
books  to  every  district  that  has  hbrary  money.  — Miles  Chaffee,  Town  Sup.  of  Concord.  JV.  Y. 

I  am  not  acquainted  with  any  similar  collection  in  the  English  language  that  can  compare  with  it 
for  purposes  of  instruction  or  amusement.  I  should  rejoice  to  see  tliat  set  of  books  in  every  house  in 
our  country.  —  Rev.  John  O.  Choules  D.  D. 

The  inform.ation  contained  in  this  work  is  surprisingly  great ;  and  for  the  fireside,  and  the  young, 
particularly,  it  cannot  fail  to  prove  a  most  valuable  and  entertaining  companion.  —  X  Y.  Evangelist. 

It  is  an  admirable  compilation  distinguished  by  the  good  taste  which  has  been  shown  in  all  the  pub- 
lications of  the  Messrs.  Chambers.  It  unites  the  useful  and  entertaining.  —  j.V.  Y.  Com.  Adv. 


CHAMBEHS'S    WORKS. 


CHAMBERS'S  HOME  BOOK  AND  POCKET  MISCELLANY.    Con- 

taiiiiDg  a  Choice  Selection  of  Jiiteie.stjng  and   Instructive  Reading  for  tlie  Old  and  the 
Young.    Six  vols.     IGmo,  cloth,  3,00. 

This  work  is  considered  fully  equal,  if  uot  superior,  to  either  of  the  Chambers's  other  works  in  in- 
terest, and.  like  them,  contains  a  vast  fund  of  valuable  information.  Following  somewhat  the  plan 
of  the  "  Miscellany, '  it  is  admirably  adapted  to  the  school  or  the  family  library,  furnishing  ample  va- 
riety lor  every  class  of  readers,  both  old  and  young. 

We  do  not  know  how  it  is  possible  to  publish  so  much  good  reading  matter  at  such  a  low  price. 
We  speak  a  good  word  for  the  literary  exccllcuee  of  the  stories  in  this  work  ;  we  hope  our  people  will 
introduce  It  into  all  their  families  in  order  to  drive  away  the  miserable  flashy-trashy  stuff  so  oftea 
found  in  the  hands  of  our  young  people  of  both  sexes.  —  Scientijic  Americatu 

J3oth  an  entertaining  and  instructive  work,  as  it  is  certainly  a  very  cheap  one.  ■  •  Puritan  Recorder. 

It  cannot  but  have  an  extensive  circulation.  —  Albany  Express. 

Excellent  stories  from  one  of  the  best  sources  in  the  world.  Of  all  the  series  of  cheap  books,  this 
promises  to  be  the  best.  —  Bangor  Mercury. 

If  any  person  wishes  to  read  for  amusement  or  profit,  to  kill  time  or  improve  it,  get  "  Chambers's 
Home  Book."  —  Chicago  Times, 

The  Chambers  are  confessedly  the  best  caterers  for  popular  and  useful  reading  in  the  world.  — 
Willises  Home  Journal. 

A  very  entertaining,  instructive,  and  popular  work.  —  X.  Y.  Commercial. 

The  articles  are  of  that  attractive  sort  which  suits  us  in  moods  of  indolence,  when  we  would  linger 
halfway  between  wakefulness  and  sleep.  Tliey  require  just  thought  and  activity  enough  to  keep  our 
feet  from  the  land  of  Nod,  without  forcing  us  to  run,  walk,  or  even  stand.  —  Eclectic,  Portland. 

The  reading  contained  iu  these  books  is  of  a  miscellaneous  character,  calculated  to  have  the  very 
best  eli'ect  upon  the  minds  of  young  readers.  While  the  contents  are  very  far  from  being  puerile,  they 
arc  not  too  heavy,  but  most  admirably  calculated  for  the  object  intended.  —  Evening  Gazette. 

Coming  from  the  source  they  do,  we  need  not  say  that  the  articles  are^f  the  highest  literary  excel- 
lence.   We  predict  for  the  work  a  large  sale  and  a  host  of  admirers.  —  East  Boston  Ledger. 

It  is  just  the  thing  to  amuse  a  leisure  hour,  and  at  the  same  tune  combines  instruction  with  amuse- 
ment. —  Dover  Inquirer. 

Jlessrs.  Chambers,  of  Edinburgh,  have  become  famous  wherever  the  English  langunge  is  npoken 
and  read,  for  their  interesting  and  instructive  publications.  Wc  have  never  yet  met  with  any  thing 
which  bore  the  sanction  of  their  names,  whose  moral  tendency  was  in  the  least  degree  questionable. 
They  combine  instruction  with  amusement,  and  throughout  they  breatlie  a  spirit  of  the  purest  moral- 
ity.—  Chicago  Tribune, 

CHAMBERS'S  REPOSITORY  OF  INSTRUCTIVE  AND  AMUSING 
PAPERS.  With  Illustrations.  An  entirely  New  Series,  and  containing  Original  Arti- 
cles.    IGmo,  cloth,  per  vol.  30  cents. 

The  Blessrs.  Chambers  have  recently  commenced  the  publication  of  this  work,  under  the  title  of 
"Chambers's  Repositokv  of  Instructive  and  Amusiko  Tracts,"  in  the  form  of  penny 
weekly  sheets,  similar  in  style,  literary  character,  &c.,  to  the  "  Miscellany,"  which  has  maintained  an 
enormous  circulation  of  more  than  eighty  thousand  copies  in  England,  and  has  already  reached  nearly 
tlie  same  sale  in  this  country. 

Arrangements  have  been  made  by  the  American  publishers,  by  which  they  will  issue  the  woik 
simultaneously  with  the  English  edition,  in  two  monthly,  handsomely  bound,  ICmo.  volumes,  of  "(in 
pages  each,  to  continue  until  tlie  whole  series  is  completed.  Each  volume  complete  in  itself,  and  will 
be  sold  in  sets  or  single  volumes. 

OS*  Commendatory  Letters,  Reviews,  Notices,  &e.,  of  each  of  Chambers's  works,  suiScient  to  make 
a  good  sized  duodecimo  volume,  have  been  received  by  the  publishers,  but  room  here  will  only  allow 
giving  a  specimen  of  tlie  vast  multitude  at  hand.  They  are  all  popular,  and  contain  valuable  instruc- 
tive and  entertaining  reading  —  such  as  should  be  found  in  every  family,  school,  and  college  library. 

F 


VALUABLE     WORK. 


CYCLOPEDIA  OF  ANECDOTES  OF  LITERATURE  AND  THE 

FINE  ARTS.  Coiiniiiiiiig  a  copious  and  choice  selection  of  Anecdotes  of  the  various 
forms  of  Literature,  of  tlie  Arts,  of  Architecture,  Engravin!;s,  Mu^ici  Poetry,  Painting 
and  Sculpture,  and  of  the  most  celebrated  Literary  Characters  and  Artists  of  diirerent 
Countries  and  Ages,  to.  By  Kazlitt  Arvine,  A.  M.,  Authorof  "  Cyclopajdia  of  Moral 
and  Religious  Anecdotes."    With  numerous  illustratiotis.     7-25  pages  octavo,  cloth,  .1,00. 

This  is  unquestionably  the  choicest  collection  of  anecdotes  ever  published.  It  contains  i/iree  tliou- 
saiiJi  wflfnrtii  Anecdotes,  many  of  tlieni  articles  of  interest,  containing  reading  matter  equal  to  luilfa 
dozen  pages  of  a  common  IJmo.  volume ;  and  such  is  the  wonderful  variety,  that  it  will  be  found  an 
ahnost  niexUaustible  fund  of  interest  for  every  class  of  readers.  The  elaborate  classification  and  in- 
dexes must  commend  it,  especially  to  public  speakers,  to  the  various  classes  of  literary  and  scientifie 
men,  to  artists,  meclimiics.  and  others,  as  a  DicTIOXAKV,/or  reference,  in  relation  to  facts  on  the  num- 
berless subjects  and  characters  introduced.  There  are  also  more  tlian  one  hundred  and  fifty  fin" 
Itliuitrations, 

■We  know  of  no  work  which  in  the  same  space  comprises  so  much  valuable  information  in  a  form 
so  entertaining,  and  so  well  adapted  to  make  an  indelible  impression  upon  the  mind.  It  must  become 
a  standard  work,  and  be  ranked  among  the  few  books  wliich  are  indispensable  to  every  complete 
library.—  N.  Y.  Chronicle. 

Here  ia  a  perfect  repository  of  the  most  choice  and  approved  specimens  of  this  species  of  informa- 
tion, selected  with  the  greatest  care  from  all  sources,  ancient  and  modern.  The  work  is  replete  with 
such  entertainment  as  is  adapted  to  all  grades  of  readers,  the  most  or  least  intellectuaL  — J/c«/ioc/iS< 
Quarterly  Mar/azme. 

One  of  the  most  complete  things  of  the  kind  ever  given  to  the  public.  There  is  scarcely  a  paragraph 
in  the  whole  book  which  will  not  interest  some  one  deeply  ;  for,  while  men  of  letters,  argument,  and 
art  cannot  afford  to  do  without  its  immense  fund  of  sound  maxims,  pungent  wit,  apt  illustrations,  and 
brilliant  examples,  the  merchant,  mechanic  and  laborer  will  find  it  ot.o  of  the  choicest  companions  of 
the  hours  of  relaxation.  "  Whatever  be  the  mood  of  one's  mind,  and  however  limited  the  time  for 
reading,  in  the  almost  endless  variety  and  great  brevity  of  the  articles  he  can  find  something  to  suit 
his  feelings,  which  he  can  begin  and  end  at  once.  It  may  also  be  made  the  very  life  of  the  social  circle, 
containing  pleasant  reading  for  all  ages,  at  all  times  and  seasons.  —  Buffalo  Commercial  Advertiser. 

A  well  spring  of  entertainment,  to  be  drawn  from  at  any  moment,  comprising  the  choicest  anecdotes 
of  distinguished  men,  from  the  remotest  period  to  the  present  time.  —  Bangor  Whig. 
A  magnificent  collection  of  anecdotes  touching  literature  and  the  fine  arts.  —  Albany  Spectator. 

This  work,  which  is  the  most  extensive  and  comprehensive  collection  of  anecdotes  ever  published, 
cannot  fail  to  become  highly  popular.  —  Salem  Gazette. 

A  publication  of  which  there  is  little  danger  of  speaking  in  too  flattering  terms  ;  a  perfect  Thesaurus 
of  rare  and  curious  information,  carefully  selected  and  methodically  arranged.  Ajewel  of  a  book  to 
lie  on  one's  table,  to  snatch  up  in  those  brief  moments  of  leisure  that  could  not  be  very  profitably 
turned  to  account  by  recourse  to  any  connected  work  in  any  department  of  hterature.  —  Troy  Budget. 

No  family  ought  to  be  without  it,  for  it  is  at  once  cheap,  valuable,  and  very  interesting  ;  containing 
mattur  compiled  from  all  kinds  of  books,  from  all  quarters  of  the  globe,  from  all  ages  of  the  world,  and 
in  relation  to  every  corporeal  matter  at  .all  worthy  of  being  remarked  or  remembered.  No  work  has 
been  issued  from  the  press  for  a  number  of  years  for  which  there  was  such  a  manifest  want,  and  we 
are  certain  it  only  needs  to  be  known  to  meet  with  an  immense  sale.  —  New  Jersey  Union. 

A  well-pointed  anecdote  is  often  useful  to  illustrate  an  argument,  and  a  memory  well  stored  with  per- 
sonal incidents  enables  the  possessor  to  entertain  hvely  and  agreeable  conversation.  —  jV.  Y.  Com. 

A  rich  treasury  of  thought,  and  wit,  and  learning,  illustrating  the  characteristics  and  peculiarities  of 
many  of  the  most  distinguished  names  in  the  history  of  literature  and  the  aris.  — Phil.  Chris.  Obs. 

The  range  of  topics  is  very  wide,  relating  to  nature,  religion,  science,  and  art :  furnishing  apposite 
illii-trations  for  the  preacher,  the  orator,  the  Sabbath  school  teacher,  and  the  instructors  of  our  com- 
mon schools,  academies,  and  colleges.  It  must  prove  a  valuable  work  for  the  fireside,  as  well  as  for 
the  library,  as  it  is  calculated  to  please  and  edify  all  classes.  —  Zanesville  Ch.  Kegister. 

Tills  is  one  of  the  most  entertaining  works  for  desultory  reading  we  have  seen,  and  will  no  doubt 
have  a  very  extensive  circulation.  As  a  most  entertaining  table  book,  we  hardly  knew  of  any  thing 
at  once  so  instructive  and  amusing.  —  JV.  Y.  Ch.  Intelligencer.  Cr 


I  M  P  O  K  T  A  N  T     W  O  K  K 


KITTO'S  POPULAR  CYCLOPAEDIA  OF  BIBLICAL  LITERA- 
TURE. Condensed  from  tlie  larger  work.  Ey  the  Aiitlior,  John  Kitto,  D.  D.,  Aiitlior 
ol"  Pictorial  Bible,"  "  History  of  Palestine,"  "  Scripture  Daily  Readings,"  &.c.  Assisted 
by  James  Taylor,  D.  I).,  of  Glasgow.  With  over  Jive  handred  Illustrations.  One  vol- 
ume octavo,  812  pp.,  cloth,  3,00. 

The  Popular  Biblical  Cvclop^:dia  of  LiTEBATunE  is  designed  to  furnish  a  Dictionart 
OF  THE  Bible,  embodying  the  products  of  the  best  and  most  recent  researches  in  biblical  literature, 
in  which  the  scholars  of  Europe  and  America  have  been  engaged.  Tlie  work,  the  result  of  immense 
labor  and  research,  and  enriched  by  the  contributions  of  writers  of  distinguished  eminence  in  the  va- 
rious departments  of  sacred  literature,  has  been,  by  universal  consent,  pronounced  the  best  work  of 
its  class  extant,  and  the  one  best  suited  to  the  advanced  knowledge  of  the  present  day  in  all  the  studies 
connected  with  theological  science.  It  is  not  only  intended  for  miytisters  and  t/ieoloyicul  students, 
but  is  also  particularly  adapted  to  parents.  Sabbath  school  tcacliers,  and  the  gnat  boil;;  of  the  religious 
pu'jlie.    The  illustration-'!,  amounting  to  more  than  three  hundred,  are  of  the  very  highest  order. 

A  condensed  ricie  of  the  rarious  branches  of  Liblical  Science  comprehended  in  the  work: 

1.  Biblical  Ckiticism,— Embracing  the  History  of  the  Bible  Languages  ;  Canon  of  Scripture; 
Literary  History  and  Peculiarities  of  the  Sacred  Books  ;  Formation  and  History  cf  Scripture  Texts. 

2.  History, —  Proper  Names  of  Persons;  Biographical  Sketches  of  prominent  Characters;  Detailed 
Accounts  of  important  Events  recorded  in  Scripture  ;  Chronology  and  Genealogy  of  Scripture. 

3.  Geoghai'iiy,  —  Names  of  Places;  Description  of  Scenery ;  Boundaries  and  Jlutual  Relations  of 
the  Countries  mentioned  in  Scripture,  so  far  as  necessary  to  illustrate  the  Sacred  Text 

4.  Akch-eology,  —  Manners  and  Customs  of  the  Jews  and  other  nations  mentioned  in  Scripture ; 
their  Sacred  Institutions,  Military  Affairs,  Political  Arrangements,  Literary  and  Scientific  Pursuits. 

£.  PiiYSiCAi,  Science,— Scripture  Cosmogony  and  Astronomy,  Zoology,  Mineralogy,  Botanj', 
Meteorology. 

In  addition  to  numerous  flattering  notices  and  reviews,  personal  letters  from  j(!ore  thanfftij  of  the 
most  distinguished  Ministers  ami  Lat/men  of  different  reliijioiis  denominations  in  the  coiintr;/  have  been 
received,  higlrly  commending  this  work  as  admirably  adapted  to  ministers,  Sabbath  school  teachers, 
heads  of  families,  and  all  Bible  students. 

The  following  extract  of  a  letter  is  a  fair  specimen  of  individual  letters  received  from  each  of  the 
gentlemen  whose  names  are  given  below  :  — 

"  I  have  examined  it  with  special  and  unalloyed  satisfaction.  It  has  the  rare  merit  of  being  all  that 
it  professes  to  be,  and  very  few,  I  am  sure,  who  may  consult  it  will  deny  that,  in  richness  and  fulness 
of  detail,  it  surpasses  their  expectation.  Many  ministers  will  find  it  a  valuable  auxihary;  but  its 
chief  excellence  is,  that  it  furnishes  just  the  facilities  which  are  needed  by  the  thousands  in  families 
and  Sabbath  schools,  who  are  engaged  in  the  important  business  of  bibUcal  education.  It  is  in  itself  a 
library  of  reliable  information." 

W.  B.  Sprague,  D.  D.,  Pastor  of  Second  Presbyterian  Church,  Albany,  N.  Y. 

3.  J.  Carruthers,  D.  D.,  Pastor  of  Second  Parish  Congregational  Church,  Portland,  Me. 

Joel  Hawes,  D.  D.,  Pastor  of  First  Congregational  Church,  Hartford,  Ct. 

Daniel  Sharp,  D.  D.,  late  Pastor  of  Third  BaptiFt  Church,  Boston. 

N.  L.  Frothingham,  D.  D..latc  Pastor  of  First  Congregational  Church,  (I'nitaiian,)  Boston. 

Ephraim  Peabody,  D.  D.,  Pastor  of  Stone  Chapel  Congregational  Church,  (llnitarian,)  Boston. 

A.  L.  Stone,  Pastor  of  Park  Street  Congregational  Church,  Boston. 

John  S.  Stone,  D.  D,  Rector  of  Christ  Church,  ( Episcopal,)  Brooklyn,  N.  Y. 

J.  B.  Waterbury,  D.  D  ,  Pastor  of  Bowdoin  Street  Church,  (Congregational,)  Boston. 

Baron  Stow,  D.  D.,  P.astor  of  Rowe  Street  Baptist  Church,  Boston. 

Thomas  H.  Skinner,  D.  D.,  Pastor  of  Carmine  Presbyterian  Church,  New  York. 

Samuel  AV.  Worcester,  D.  D.,  Pastor  of  the  Tabernacle  Church,  (Congregational,)  Salem. 

Horace  Bushnell,  D.  D.,  Pastor  of  Third  Congregational  Church,  Hartford,  Ct.^ 

Right  Reverend  J.  M.  Wainwriiht.  D.  D.,  Trinity  Church,  (Episcopal.)  New  York. 

Gardner  Spring,  D.  D.,  Pastor  of  the  Brick  Church  Chnpol  Presbyterian  Church,  New  York. 

W.  T.  Dwight,  D.  D.,  Pastor  of  Third  Congregational  Church.  Portland,  Me. 

E.  N.  Kirk,  Pastor  of  Mount  Vernon  Comrregational  Church,  Boston. 

Prof.  George  Bush,  author  of  "  Notes  on  the  Scriptures,"  New  York. 

Howard  Malcom,  D.  D.,  author  of  "  Bible  Dictionary,"  and  Pres  cf  Lewisburg  University. 

Henry  J.  Ripley,  D.  D.,  author  of  "  Notes  on  the  Scriptures,"  and  Prot:  in  Newton  Theol.  Ins. 

N.  Porter,  Prof,  in  Yale  College,  New  Haven,  Ct. 

Jared  Sparks,  Edward  Everett,  Theodore  Freliughuysen,  Robert  C.  Winthrop,  John  McLean 

Simon  Greenleaf,  Thomas  S.  Williams,  —  and  a  large  number  of  others  of  like  character  and 

standing  of  the  above,  whose  names  cannot  here  appear.  H 


WOllKS   l^^OR  BI13LE   STUDENTS. 


A  TREATISE  ON  BIBLICAL  CRITICISMS;  Exhibiting  a  Syste- 
niatic  View  of  that  Science.  By  Samuel.  Davieson,  I).  D.,  ol'tlie  University  of  llalle, 
Aiitlior  of  "  Ecclesiastical  Polity  of  the  New  Testanieiit,"  "  Iiitrodiictidii  to  tlie  New 
Teitaiuciit,"  "Sacred  Hermeneutics  Developed  and  Applied.  A  now  Revised  and  En- 
larged Edition,  in  two  elegant  octavo«vol!inios,  clotli,  5,00. 

These  volumes  contain  a  statement  of  the.  sources  of  criticism,  such  as  the  MSS.  of  Hie  Ilcbrew  Bi- 
tle  and  Grcclc  Testament,  the  principal  versions  of  both,  quotations  from  thcni  in  early  writers,  par- 
allels, and  also  the  internal  evidence  on  wliicli  critics  rely  for  obtaining  a  pure  text.  A  history  of  the 
tests  of  the  Old  and  Isew  Testaments,  with  a  description  of  tlie  Hebrew  and  Greek  languages  in 
which  the  Scriptures  are  written.  Au  examination  of  the  most  important  passages  whose  readings 
are  disputed. 

Every  thing,  in  short,  is  discussed,  which  properly  belongs  to  the  criticism  of  the  text,  comprehend- 
ing all  that  comes  undc-r  the  title  of  General  Jntroduction  in  Introductions  to  the  Old  and  New  Tes- 
taments. 

HISTORY  OF  PALESTINE,  from  tlic  Patriarchal  Age  to  the  Present 
Time  ;  with  Introductory  Chapters  on  the  Geography  and  Natural  History  of  the  Coun- 
try, and  on  the  Customs  and  Institutions  of  the  Hebrews.  Ey  JOHN  KiTTO,  D.  D., 
Author  of"  Scripture  Daily  Readings,"  "  Cyclopedia  of  Biblical  Literature,"  iSiC.  With 
upwards  of  two  hundred  Illustrations.     12mo,  cloth,  1,25. 

A  very  full  compendium  of  the  geography  and  history  of  Palestine,  from  the  earliest  era  mentioned 
in  Scripture  to  the  present  day  ;  not  merely  a  dry  record  of  boundaries,  and  the  succession  of  rulers, 
but  an  intelligible  account  of  the  agriculture,  habits  of  life,  literature,  science,  and  art,  with  the  re- 
ligious, political,  and  judicial  institutions  of  the  inhabitants  of  the  Uoly  Land  in  all  ages.  The  de- 
scriptive portions  of  the  work  are  increased  in  value  by  numerous  wood  cuts.  A  more  useful  and 
instructive  book  has  rarely  been  published.  —  JV".  Y.  Commercial. 

■Whoever  will  read  this  book  till  he  has  possessed  himself  thoroughly  of  its  contents,  will,  wo  ven- 
ture to  say,  read  the  Bible  with  far  more  iutclhgence  and  satisfaction  during  all  the  rest  of  his  life.  — 
I'uritan  Hecorcler. 

Beyond  all  dispute,  this  is  the  best  historical  compendium  of  the  Holy  Land,  from  the  days  of 
Abraham  to  those  of  the  late  Pasha  of  Egypt,  JMehemet  All.  —  Edinburgh  Itevieiv. 

CS-  In  the  numerous  notices  and  reviews  the  work  has  been  strongly  recommended,  as  not  only  ad- 
mirably adapted  to  ihe  family,  but  also  as  a  test  book  for  Sabbath  and  week  day  schools. 

CRUDEN'S  CONDENSED  CONCORDANCE  ;  a  New  and  Complete 
Concordance  to  the  Holy  Scriptures.  By  Alexander  Cruden.  Revised  and  Re- 
edited  by  the  Rev.  David  King,  LL.  D.     Tenth  thousand.     Octavo,  cloth  backs,  1,25 

T^iis  work  is  printed  from  English  plates,  and  is  a  full  and  fair  copy  of  all  that  is  valuable  as  a  Con- 
cordance in  Cruden's  larger  work,  in  two  volumes,  which  costs  Jive  dollars,  while  this  edition  is  fur- 
nished at  one  dollar  and  twenty-five  cents!  The  principal  variation  from  the  larger  book  consists  in 
the  exclusion  of  the  Bible  Dictionary,  (which  has  always  been  an  incumbrance,)  the  condensation  of 
the  quotations  of  Scripture,  arranged  under  their  most  obvious  heads,  which,  while  it  diminishes  the 
bulk  of  the  work,  greatly  facilitates  the  finding  of  any  required  passage. 

We  have,  in  this  edition  of  Cruden,  the  lest  made  better  I  That  is,  the  present  is  better  adapted  to 
the  purposes  of  a  concordance,  by  the  erasure  of  superfluous  references,  the  omission  of  unnecessary 
explanations,  and  the  contraction  of  quotations,  etc.  It  is  better  as  a  manual,  and  better  adapted  by- 
its  price,  to  the  means  of  many  who  need  and  ought  to  possess  such  a  work,  than  the  former  large  and 
expensive  edition.  —  Puritan  liccorder. 

The  present  edition,  in  being  relieved  of  some  things  which  contributed  to  render  all  former  ones 
unnecessarily  cumbrous,  without  adding  t9  the  substantial  value  of  the  work,  becomes  an  exceedingly 
cheap  book.  —  Albany  Argus. 

All  in  the  incomparable  work  of  Cruden  that  is  essential  to  a  Concordance  is  presented  in  a  volume 
much  reduced  both  in  size  and  price.  —  Watchman  and  Heflector. 

Next  to  the  Bible  itself,  every  family  should  have  a  concordance.  No  person  can  study  the  Scrip- 
tures to  advantage  without  one.    Cruden's  is  the  best.  —  £ap(is(  ijecord.  I 


THE  CAPTIYE  IN '  PATAGONIA ; 

on   LIFE    AMONG    THE    GIANTS. 
A  Personal  Narrative.    Ey  Benjamin  Franklin  Bourne.    With  lUustraiions.   85cts. 

Tliis  T7ork,  by  Captain  Bourne,  —  who  was  taken  captive  and  retained  three  months  by  the  Patago- 
r.iar.n,  — elves  an  account  of  his  capture  and  linal  escape;  a  description  of  this  strange  people ;  their 
manners,  custoi-as,  habits,  pursuits ;  the  countiy ,  its  soil,  productions,  etc.,  of  which  httle  or  nothing  has 
licretoforo  been  known.    C3-  A  work  of  thrilling  interest,  and  of  instruction  to  every  class  of  readers. 

The  demand  for  this  book  has  been  great.  The  writer  has  given  us  a  story  possessed  of  all  the 
Btrangencss  of  Cction  and  all  the  impressivencss  of  tragedy.  —  iV.  iC  Ch.  Intelligencer. 

Any  book,  descriptive  of  a  country  which  is  almost  like  fable  land  to  the  civilized  world,  must  pos- 
cccs  Tcat  interest ;  but  this  work,  besides  liaving  this  attraction,  is  written  with  much  vigor  and  spirit, 
rnd  ij  replete  with  a  variety  cf  interesting  facts,  descriptive  of  the  manners,  customs,  character,  etc., 
cf  t!ic  Patugonians.  —  Saiannali  Journal. 

It  is,  indeed,  a  work  of  thrilling  intereft,  and  bids  fair  to  be  another  Uncle  Tom's  Cabin  in  popular- 
ity, fuiu- Lirge  editions  having  already  been  sold  m  as  many  weeks.  Captain  Bourne  is  a  gentleman 
\Tc!)  !:nov.-n  and  highly  respected  in  this  community  ,  and  the  narrative  of  his  strange  adventures, 
Startling  and  lomantic  as  tliey  may  seem,  can  be  relied  upon  as  strictly  true.  —  Xantucket  Eagle. 

'\Tc  hive  Ecldom  read  a  work  of  such  intense  interest.  —  3".  II.  Sentinel. 

Xhis  13  a  r.arratlvc  of  great  interest.  —  Phil.  Ch.  Oiscrver. 

Vc  question  whether  the  scenes,  trials,  hardships,  adventures,  etc.,  could  have  been  more  vividly 
d.-awu  had  they  emanated  from  the  pen  cf  au  Ikvi>-o  or  a  CoopEr..-  Iiutland(Vt.)  Herald. 

II  -3  written  in  a  beautiful  and  vivnciov.s  style,  and  besides  the  thrilling  interest  of  the  adventures 
w::!c:i  i;  narrates,  is  clmoi't  inv:-.l!:!'.!,:e  for  the  information  it  imparts  concerning  a  people  of  whom  be- 
fore wo  knew  nothing.  —  Schenectaaij  Reflector. 

The  author  is  known  r.s  r.  respectable  man,  and  one  of  high  integrity ;  and  from  his  own  experience 
hr.:  here  riven  many  particulars  Ic  the  world  cf  the  manners,  customs,  habits,  and  pursuits  of  the  na- 
lives.    It  ij  a  thriUiiig  narrative,  and  as  exciting  as  Typee  —  JSewport  Jlercunj. 

"e  should  r.tt  be  surprised  if  its  sale  should  equal  th»t  cf  I  nele  Tom's  Cabin.  Seldom,  if  ever, 
l;r.vc  v.-c  ;ior-scd  .1  wor'i  with  so  intense  an  interest.  Ko  work  cf  romi.neo  cr.n  excel  it  in  power  to 
t:;cliant  the  mind,  and  awaken  a  nervous  desire  to  possess  the  valuable  information  which  it  commu- 
nicates. —  Amherst  r.xpres:. 

A  !;andEomc  boo';:  to  t'.ie  eye  ;  and  as  to  the  rending,  wo  confess  that,  having  begun  it  one  evening, 
\rc  would  net  quit  until  the  book  had  been  finished.  — Montpclier  Journal. 

Uncle  Tom  m:y  stand  aside  for  the  present.  Jlrs.  Stowo  may  herself,  as  well  as  her  readers,  listen 
lo  tl'.o  tale  cf  a  TTow  Bedford  sailor.  Ills  narrative  is  o:ic  tliat  cannot  fall  to  move  both  to  smiles  and 
t;a"s,-  containing  touches  of  the  broadest  and  most  genial  humor,  as  well  as  passages  of  simple  pa- 
tl'.os,  which  dissolve  t]\e  soul  in  sympathy.  lie  has,  indeed,  as  ho  well  remarks  in  his  preface,  "  seen 
tl-.o  clep-i-it."  "r"l  '■  measured  his  proboscis."  lie  has  reported  his  admeasurements  and  observations 
with  groat  good  taste ;  in  a  style  which  the  most  bookish  "  l.-.nd  lubber  "  might  envy.—  i).  II.  Aurora. 

Or.c  of  the  most  successful  publications  of  the  da}'.  Possessing  all  the  intei-est  of  real  adventure, 
with  all  the  attractiveness  of  romance,  we  do  not  wonder  at  its  popularity.  -  loston  Atlas. 

V,'c  can  cif..'ly  aver  that  wo  have  never  before  perused  any  personal  narrative  that  has  interested  us 
£3  this  one.  —  Fountain  and  Journal,  Me. 

VTc  have  scarcely  been  able  to  leave  its  attractive  pages.  Though  strictly  a  personal  narrative,  it  has 
til  the  charms  and  dramatic  interest  of  a  work  of  fiction,  and  convoys  most  valuable  information  on  a 
Eu'jjoct  but  very  little  known  —  life  in  Pataronia.  If  the  reader  wishes  to  be  amused,  instructed,  de- 
lighted, and  benefited,  ho  cannot  do  better  t'lau  to  procure  a  copy.  -   Gardi/ipr  Evening  Transcript. 

I'o  wr.r'-c  of  romance  cau  exceed  it  in  power  to  enchain  the  mind  and  awaken  interest.  —  Congre- 

C~.tionalist. 

THE  IIISTOnY  OF  BANRDs^'G;  vrith  a  Comprehensive  Acoonnt  of 
I'.ic  0:-i~i:i,  r,i>p,  nnd  Pr.ifrc?:s  of  the  Bnr^ks  of  England  Ireland,  and  Sectland  By 
TTlLLIAM  John  Lav/.son.  Fir=t  Annorican  E^litinn  Revised  with  riimcroiis  addi- 
tions    By  J  Smith  Romans,  Editor  of  Bankers  Maijazine.    1  vol.  octavo,  2,00. 

ecr  A  novel  book,  yet  interesting  and  instructive  •  containing,  in  the  History  of  Banking,  anecdotes 
cf  men  who  have  figured  largely  in  the  business,  cases  of  forjeries,  counterfeits  detections,  trials,  etc. 


A    PILGRIMAGE     TO     EGYPT; 

EMBRACING  A  DIARY  OF  EXPLORATIONS  ON  THE  NILE, 

WITH  OBSERVATIONS,  illustrative  of  the  Mnnncrs.  Customs,  and 
Institutions  of  tlie  People,  and  of  the  jire.sent  conditinn  of  ilie  Antiquities  and  Unins.  Ly 
J.  V.  C.  Smith,  M.  D,  Editor  of  tlie  Dostoii  Medical  and  SuijjicalJourual.  Willi  iiu- 
lueroiis  elegant  En'-ravings.     Tliiid  edition.     l,-25. 

There  is  a  lifelike  interest  in  the  narrfttivcs  nnd  descriptions  of  Dr.  Smith's  pen,  which  fakes  ron 
directly  alonq  witli  the  truvuUor.  so  tluit  when  he  closes  a  chapter  you  fuel  that  you  have  reached 
an  inn,  where  you  will  rest  for  a  while;  and  then,  with  a  refreshed  mind,  you  will  be  rrady  to  niovo 
on  again,  in  ajourncy  full  of  fresh  and  instructive  incidents  and  explorations.  —  Clu  U'ltac^''. 

Eveiy  page  of  the  volume  is  entertaining  and  instructive,  and  even  those  who  are  well  read  in 
Egyptian  manners,  customs,  and  scenery,  cannot  fail  to  find  eoniclluns  new  and  novel  upon  thoso 
somewhat  hackneyed  topics.  —  Mercantile  Juunud. 

One  of  the  most  agreeable  books  of  travel  which  have  been  published  for  a  long  time.  —  Daily  Adv. 

It  is  readable,  attractive,  and  interesting,  because  fannliar  nnd  companionable.  You  seem  to  be 
travelling  with  hiin,  and  seeing  the  things  which  he  sees.—  /Junker  Jlill  Auroi  a. 

The  author  is  a  keen  observer,  and  describes  what  he  observes  with  a  graphic  pen.  The  volume 
abounds  in  vivid  dcscnptiuus  of  the  manners,  customs,  and  institutions  of  the  people  visited,  th; 
present  condition  of  the  ancient  ruin's,  accompanied  by  a  large  number  of  illustrations.  -  t'uurier. 

We  see  what  E?ypt  was ;  we  see  what  Egypt  is ;  and  with  prophetic  cndoAvment  we  sec  what  it  is 
yet  to  be.  It  is  a  charming  book,  not  written  for  antiquarians  and  the  learned,  but  for  the  ndlUon,  aud 
by  the  million  it  will  be  read.  —  CoiujrcgationaUst. 

The  reader  may  be  sure  of  entertninmont  in  such  a  land,  under  the  guidance  of  such  an  obscr^-cr  ts 
Dr.  Smith,  and  will  be  surprised,  when  he  has  accompanied  him  through  the  tour,  at  the  vivid  im- 
pression whicli  he  retains  of  persons, and  places, and  incidents.  The  illustrations  are  capitally  drawn, 
end  add  greatly  to  the  value  of  the  book,  which  is  a  handsome  volume  in  every  respect,  as  are  til 
the  works  which  issue  from  the  house  of  Gould  and  Lincoln.—  Salem  Gazette. 

This  is  really  one  of  the  most  entertaining  books  upon  Egypt  that  we  have  met  with.  It  is  an  easy 
and  simple  narration  of  all  sorts  of  strange  matters  and  things,  as  they  came  under  the  eye  uf  au  -.' 
tentive  and  iuteUige ut  observer.  —  Albany  Aryat. 

Sir.  Smith  is  one  of  the  sprightliest  authors  in  America,  and  this  work  is  worthy  of  his  pen.  He  il 
particularly  happy  in  presenting  the  comical  and  grotesque  side  of  objects.—  Cuiiitiwniiculth. 

The  sketches  of  people  and  manners  are  marvellously  lifelike,and  if  the  book  is  not  a  little  gossipy, 
It  is  not  by  any  means  wanting  in  substantial  information  aud  patieut  research-  -•  CVi.  Inquirer. 

One  of  the  most  complete  and  perfect  books  of  the  kind  ever  published,  introducing  entire  new 
places  and  scenes,  that  have  been  ovei  looked  by  other  writers.  The  style  is  uduiirable  and  attractive, 
and  abundantly  interesting  to  insure  it  a  general  eireulatiou.  —  iJiai/em. 

Reader,  take  this  book  and  go  with  him ;  it  is  like  making  the  voyage  yourself.  Dr.  Smith  writes  irt 
a  very  pleasing  style.  No  one  will  fall  to  sleep  over  the  book-  \Ve  admire  tiie  man  s  wit ;  it  break* 
out  occasionally  like  flashes  of  lightning  on  a-dark  sky,  and  makes  every  thing  look  pleasantly.  Of 
all  the  books  we  ha\e  read  on  Egypt,  we  prefer  this.  It  goes  ahead  of  Stephens's.  Header,  obtain  a 
copy  for  yourself.—  Trumpet. 

This  volume  is  neither  a  re-hash  of  guide  books,  nor  a  condensed  mensuration  of  heights  nnd  dis- 
tances from  works  on  Egyptian  antiquities.  It  contains  the  daily  observations  of  a  most  intelligent 
tiaveller,  wdiose  descriptions  bring  to  the  reader's  eye  the  scenes  he  witnessed.  We  have  read  many 
books  on  Egypt,  some  of  them  full  of  sei«nce  and  learning,  and  some  of  wit  and  frohc,  but  iiciiie  u:liicli 
funiis/icd  so  clear  an  idea  of  Egi/pt  us  it  is.  -  of  its  ruins  as  they  now  ari'.  and  of  its  people  as  they 
now  hve  and  move.  The  style,  always  disnifiod,  is  not  unfrcquently  playful,  and  the  nadcr  is  borue 
along  from  page  to  page,  with  the  feeling  that  he  is  iu  good  company.  -  ■  ]\'utchman  and  Jlrjlectur. 

Its  geological  remarks  upon  the  Nile  and  its  valley,  its  information  upon  agricnltnre  and  the  me- 
chanic arts,  amusements,  education,  domestic  life  and  economy,  and  especially  upon  the  diseases  cf 
the  country,  are  new  aud  important.  —  Con'jrtijationalist. 

SCRIPTURE  NATURAL  HISTORY;  containing  .-i  dosciiptivc account 
of  Qnadniped-*,  Birds,  Fishes,  Insect.^,  Re|itile.'=,  Serpents,  Plants,  Trees,  Minerals,  Gems, 
and  Precious  Stones,  mentioned  in  the  Bible.  By  WlLI.lAM  Carpenter,  London  } 
with  Improvements,  by  Rev.  Gorham  D.  Abbott.  Illustrated  by  numerous  Ericrav- 
ings.     Also,  Sketches  of  Palestine.     12mo,  clotli,  1,00.  T 


HUGH    MILLER'S    WORKS. 

MY    FIRST    IMPRESSIONS 
OF   ENGLAND    AND    ITS   PEOPLE. 

By  Hugh  Miller,  author. of  "  Old  lied  Sandstone,"  "  Footprints  of  tho 
Creulur"  etc.,  with  a  fine  likeness  of  the  author.     12nio,  cloth,  1,00. 

Let  not  the  careless  reader  imagine,  from  the  title  of  this  book,  that  it  is  a  common  book  of  travels, 
on  the  contrary,  it  is  a  very  remarkable  one,  both  in  design,  spirit,  and  execution.  The  facts  recorded, 
and  tlie  views  advanced  in  this  book,  are  so  fresh,  vivid,  and  natural,  that  we  cannot  but  commend  it 
a»  a  treasure,  both  of  information  and  entertainment  It  will  greatly  enhance  the  author's  reputation 
In  this  country  as  it  already  has  m  England.  —  Willis's  Home  Journal. 

This  is  a  noble  book,  worthy  of  the  author  of  the  Footprints  of  the  Creator  and  the  Old  Red  Sand- 
stone, because  it  is  seasoned  with  the  same  power  of  vivid  description,  the  same  minuteness  of  obser- 
vation, and  soundness  of  criticism,  and  the  same  genial  piety.  We  have  re.id  it  with  deep  interest, 
and  with  ardent  admiration  of  the  author's  temper  and  genius.  It  is  almost  impossible  to  lay  the  book 
down,  even  to  attend  to  more  pressing  matters.  It  is,  without  compliment  or  hyperbole,  a  most  de- 
lightful volume.  —  S.  I".  Commercial. 

It  abounds  with  graphic  sketches  of  scenery  and  character,  is  full  of  genius,  eloquence,  and  observa- 
tion, and  is  well  calculated  to  arrest  the  attention  of  the  thoughtful  and  inquiring.  —  Phil.  Inquirer. 

This  is  a  most  amusing  and  instructive  book,  by  a  master  hand.  —  Democratic  Review. 

The  author  of  this  w^ork  proved  himself,  in  the  Footprints  of  the  Creator,  one  of  the  most  original 
thinkers  and  powerful  writers  of  the  age.  In  the  volume  before  us  he  adds  new  laurels  to  his  reputa- 
tion. Whoever  wishes  to  understand  the  character  of  the  present  race  of  Englishmen,  as  contradistin- 
guished from  past  generations ;  to  comprehend  the  workings  of  political,  social,  and  religious  agitation 
in  the  miuds,  not  of  the  nobility  or  gentry,  but  of  ihe people,  will  discover  that,  in  this  volume,  he  has 
found  a  treasure.  —  Peterson's  Magazine. 

His  eyes  were  open  to  see,  and  his  cars  to  hear,  every  thing ;  and,  as  the  result  of  what  he  saw  and 
heard  in  "merrie  "  England,  he  has  made  one  of  the  most  spirited  and  attractive  volumes  of  travels 
and  observations  that  we  have  met  with  these  many  days.  —  Traveller. 

It  is  with  the  feeling  with  which  one  grasps  tho  hand  of  an  old  friend  that  we  greet  to  our  home  and 
heart  llic  author  of  the  Old  Ked  Sandstone  and  Footprints  of  the  Creator.  Hugh  Miller  is  one  of  the 
most  agreeable,  entertaining,  and  instructive  writers  of  the  age  ;  and,  having  been  so  delighted  with 
him  before,  we  open  the  First  Impre  sions,  and  enter  upon  its  perusJ  with  i  keen  intellectual  appe- 
tite. We  know  of  no  work  in  England  so  full  of  adaptedness  to  the  age  as  this.  It  opens  up  clearly  to 
view  the  condition  of  its  various  classes,  sheds  new  light  into  its  social,  moral,  and  religious  history, 
not  forgetting  its  geological  peculiarities,  and  draws  conclusions  of  great  value.  —  Albany  Spectator. 

We  commend  the  volume  to  our  readers  as  one  of  more  than  ordinary  value  and  interest,  from  the 
pen  of  a  writer  who  thinks  for  himself,  and  looks  at  mankind  and  at  nature  through  his  own  spec- 
tacles. —  Ti  anscript. 

The  author,  one  of  the  most  remarkable  men  of  the  age,  arranged  for  this  j oumey  into  England, 
expecting  to  "lodge  in  humble  cottages,  and  wear  a  humble  dress,  and  see  what  was  to  be  seen  by 
humble  men  only,—  society  without  its  mask."  Such  an  observer  might  be  expected  to  bring  to  view 
a  thousand  things  unkuown,  or  partially  known  before ;  and  abundantly  does  he  fulfil  this  expecta- 
tion.   It  is  one  of  the  most  absorbing  books  of  the  time.  —  Portland  Vh.  Jlirror. 

NEW    WOEK. 

MY   SCHOOLS   AND   SCHOOLMASTERS; 

OR    THE    STORY    OF    MY    EDUCATION. 

Br    Hugh  Miller    author  of  "Footprints  of  the  Creator,"   "Old  Eed 
Sandstone,"  "  First  Impressions  of  England  "  etc.     12mo,  cloth 

This  is  a  personal  narrative  of  a  deeply  interesting  and  instructive  character,  concerning  one  of  the 
most  remarkable  men  of  the  age.  No  one  who  purchases  this  book  will  have  occasion  to  regret  it,  our 
word  for  It  1  U 


VALUABLE  AVORKS  FOR  THE  YOUxNG. 

SY    HEV.   HARVEY    nEWCOMB. 

HOW  TO  EE  A  MAN  ;   a  Book  for  Boys,  containing  Useful  Hints  on 
the  Foniialioii  of  Cimracter.     Eleventh  lhou:3an(l.     Clotlj,  gilt,  50  cts. 

"  My  design  in  writing  has  been  to  contribute  somctliing  towards  forming  the  ctiaracter  of  those  who 
are  to  be  our  future  electors,  legisla,tors,  governors,  judges,  ministers,  lawyers,  and  physicians,  —  after 
the  best  model.  It  is  intended  lor  boys  —  or  if  you  please,  fur  ijounsj  geutlemeu,  in  early  youth,  from 
eight  or  ten  to  fifteen  or  sixteen  years  of  a^a,"  —  Prejace. 

We  consider  "  IIow  to  be  a  Man  "  an  inimitable  little  voKimc,  and  we  desire  that  it  be  widely  circu- 
lated.   It  should  be  put  into  the  hands  of  every  youth  in  the  laud.  —  Tennessee  LaptUU 

HOW  TO  BE  A  LADY;   a  Book  for  Girls,  containing  Useful  Hints  on 
the  Formation  of  Character     Twelfth  tliousand.     Cloth,  gilt,  50  cts. 

"Having  daughters  of  his  own,  and  having  been  many  years  employed  in  writing  for  the  young, 
he  hopes  to  be  able  to  offer  some  good  advice,  in  an  entertaining  waj-,  for  girls  or  misses,  between  tho 
ages  of  eight  and  iil'tcen.  His  object  is,  to  assist  them  in  forming  their  characters  upon  the  best  model ; 
that  they  may  become  well-bred,  iutelligeut,  refined,  and  good ;  and  thcu  they  will  bo  real  Indies,  in 
the  highest  sense."  —  J're/ace, 

Parents  will  consult,  we  are  sure,  the  best  interests  of  their  daughters,  for  time  and  eternity,  in  mail- 
ing them  acquainted  with  this  attractive  and  most  useful  volume.  —  JS'.  T.  LcawjelisL. 

The  followinj  Notices  apply  to  both  the  a'love  Volumes, 
It  would  be  better  for  the  next  generation,  in  more  particulars  than  we  can  stop  to  enumerate,  if 
every  youth  would  "  read,  learn,  and  inwardly  digest "  the  cont.'nts  of  tliese  volumes.  —  .V.  }'.  Com. 

These  volumes  contain  much  matter  which  is  truly  valuable,  and  will  be  a  snfe  mentor  to  thcao 
young  persons  who  will  read  the  volumes  and  conform  to  the  precepts  contained  therein.  —  Jlei:  Jour. 

They  contain  wise  and  important  counsels  and  cautions,  adapted  to  the  young,  and  made  entertain- 
ing by  the  interesting  style  and  illustrations  of  the  autlior.  They  arc  fine  mirrors,  in  wl-.ich  are  re- 
flected the  prominent  liueaments  of  the  Christian  young  gentleman  and  yomtg  laily.  The  books  will 
furnish  elegant  and  most  profitable  presents  for-the  young.  —  American  PHlpit. 

Sir.  Newcomb's  books  are  excellent.  Tliey  contain  useful  hints  on  the  formation  of  character 
wkereunto  the  young  would  do  well  to  take  heed     AVe  are  pleased  to  commend  them.  —  N.  X'.  Ol3. 

They  are  books  well  calculated  to  do  good.  -  -  Phil.  Ch   Chronicle. 

Designed  for  boys  and  girls  we  advise  all  to  read  and  listen  to  their  siiggestions.  —  Jour,  and  2Ies. 

They  contain  common-sense,  practical  hints  on  tho  formation  of  character  and  habits,  and  ar« 
adapted  to  the  improvement  of  youth  in  tills  country. —  Mothers'  Journal. 

ANECDOTES   FOR  BOYS  ;   Entertaining  Anecdotes  and  Narratives, 
illustrative  of  Principles  and  Character.    Seventh  thousand.    ISuio,  cloth,  gilt,  42  eta. 

ANECDOTES  EOIl  GIRLS  ;   Entertaining  Anecdotes  and  Narr.ativcs, 
illustrative  of  Principles  and  Character.     Seventh  thousand.     ISmo,  cloth,  gilt,  42  ct3. 

There  is  a  charm  about  these  two  beautiful  volumes  not  to  be  mistaken.  They  are  deeply  interest- 
ing and  instructive,  without  being  fictitious.  The  anecdotes  are  many,  short,  and  spirited,  with  a 
moral  drawn  from  each,  adapted  to  every  age,  condition,  and  duty  of  life.  We  commend  them  to 
families  and  schools.  —  Albany  Spectator. 

These  anecdotes,  which  arc  always  such  as  illustrate  moral  lessons,  arc  selected  from  a  wide  ranee, 
and  carefully  prepared.  —  iV'.  1".  Pecorder. 

Works  of  great  value,  for  a  truth  or  principle  is  sooner  instilled  into  tho  youthful  licart  by  an  anec- 
dote, than  in  .any  other  way.  They  are  well  selected,  and  will  lurui  an  acceptable  present  for  tho 
holidays.  —  Eveninrj  Gazette. 

Nothing  has  a  greater  interest  for  n  youthful  mind  than  a  well-told  story,  and  no  medium  of  con- 
veying moral  instructions  so  attract  ve  or  so  successful.  The  influence  of  all  such  stories  is  far  mora 
powerful  when  the  child  is  assured  that  they  are  true.  These  volumes  are  made  up  of  a  series  of  an- 
ecdotes, every  one  of  which  inculcates  some  excellent  moral  lesson.  We  cannot  too  strongly  reconi- 
mend  them  to  parents.  —  Western  Continent,  Baltimore.  V 


VALUABLE  WORKS   FOR  THE  YOUNG. 


YOUNG  AMERICANS  ABROAD  ;  or,  Vacation  in  Europe  :  the  Results 
of  a  Tour  through  Great  Britain,  France,  Holland,  Belgium,  Germany,  and  Switzerland. 
By  John  Overton  Choules,  D.  D.,  and  his  Pupils.  With  Elegant  Illustrations. 
16mo,  cloth,  75  cts. 

This  is  a  higlily  entertaining  work,  embracing  more  real  information,  sucli  as  every  one  wishes  to 
know  about  Europe,  than  any  otlier  booli  of  travels  ever  published. 

Three  intelligent  lads,  who  knew  how  to  use  their  eyes,  were  so  fortunate  as  to  accompany  their  tutor 
on  a  short  European  tour  j  and,  from  a  carefully-kept  journal,  they  wrote  out,  from  time  to  time,  in  a 
series  of  letters  to  a  favorite  companion  in  study,  at  home,  their  impressions  of  the  most  remarkable 
places  en  route.  The  penciUings  are  genuine  and  unaffected,  and  in  all  respects  form  an  interesting 
and  instructive  record  of  travel.  For  readers  of  their  own  age,  from  twelve  to  sixteen  years,  thesa 
fresh,  intelligent  reminiscences  of  other  lands  have  unusual  attraction,  and  we  cordially  commend  the 
■work  to  their  attention.  —  Surtain's  Magazine. 

Admirably  calculated  to  gratify  and  interest  all  young  readers.  —  Transcript, 

One  of  the  most  attractive,  instructive,  and  delightful  books  of  the  age.  —  Southern  Lit.  Gazette. 

Boys,  here  is  a  book  that  will  suit  you  exactly.  It  is  a  series  of  letters  from  certain  boys  travelling 
In  Europe  to  their  classmates  in  this  country.  You  will  be  much  more  interested  in  it  than  you 
would  be  in  reading  the  travels  of  men  over  the  same  country.  It  will  improve  your  knowledge  to 
read  tins  book,  and  amuse  you  during  long  winter  nights.  —  Methodust  Prot. 

■We  have  been  struck  with  the  unaffected  good  taste,  and  the  accuracy  of  the  details,  of  this  little 
book  :  indeed,  it  is  worth  much  more  than  many  a  larger  and  more  pretentious  volume,  for  giving  a 
daguerreotype  of  things  abroad.  —  Cunfjregationalist. 

A  beautiful  book  for  young  people,  unlike  any  thing  of  the  kind  we  have  ever  seen.  —  rhil.  Ch.  Ob. 

One  of  the  most  interesting  books  that  can  be  put  into  the  hands  of  the  young.  —  Olive  Branch. 

One  of  the  best  books  of  foreign  travel  fur  youth  to  bo  found  in  the  whole  range  of  American  litera- 
ture. —  Buffalo  ilormnij  Express, 

THE  ISLAND  HOME  ;  or,  the  Young  Castaways  Bv  Ckristophl:k 
Ro.-viAUNT,  Esq,     With  Elegant  Illustrations.     16mo,  cloth,  75  cts. 

The  best  and  prettiest  book  for  boys  that  we  have  lately  seen.  —  Boston  Post, 

A  stirring  and  unique  work.    It  will  interest  the  juvenile  men  vastly. —  Olive  Branch. 

A  dehehtfnl  fiction,  purporting  to  narrate  the  adventures  of  six  boys  who  put  to  sea  in  an  open  boat, 
and  were  orifled  to  &  desert  island,  where  they  lived  in  the  manner  of  Robinson  Crusoe.  —  JV.  I'.  Com, 

The  book  is  one  of  great  interest,  and  one  which  will  be  a  treat  to  any  boy  who  may  succeed  in  per- 
suading ms  father  to  purchase  it  for  him.  —  Home  Cii  cle. 

Every  young  mind  will  pore  over  its  pages  with  almost  enchanted  interest.—  Transcript. 

A  modem  Robinson  Crusoe  story,  without  the  dreary  solitude  of  that  famous  hero.  It  is  calculated 
to  amuse  and  instruct  the  young  reader  in  no  ordinary  degree.  —  Southern  Lit.  Gazette. 

A  story  that  bids  fair  to  rival  the  far-famed  Robinson  Crusoe  in  the  estimation  of  yon" '^ri.  We 
become  as  much  interested  in  the  Max.  Johnny,  Arthur,  and  the  rest  of  the  goodly  con  ^jaiiy,  as  in  the 
Gwiss  Family  Robinson.  -  Sartam's  JUagazine. 

THE  AMERICAN  STATESMAN;  or.  Ilhistrations  of  the  Life  and 
Character  of  Daniel  Webster,  for  the  E.itertainment  and  Instruction  of  American 
Youth.  By  iho  Rev.  Joseph  Banvard,  author  of  "  Plymouth  and  the  Pilgrims," 
"Novelties  of  the  New  Wcrld,"  "  Romance  of  American  History,"  etc.  With  elegant 
Illustrations.     16mo,  cloth,  75  cts. 

tS"  A  work  of  great  interest,  presenting  a  sketch  of  the  most  striking  and  important  events  which 
occurred  in  the  history  of  the  distinguished  statesman,  Daniel  Webster,  avoiding  entirely  all  points  of 
a  political  character ;  holding  up  to  view,  for  the  admiration  and  emulation  of  American  youth,  only 
his  commendable  traits  of  character.  It  is  just  such  a  work  as  every  American  patriot  would  wish 
his  cliildren  to  read  and  reflect  upon.  "W 


PLEASANT  PAGES  FOR  YOUNG  PEOPLE; 

OR,  BOOK  OF  HOME  EDUCATION  AND  ENTERTAINMENT. 
By  S.  Prout  Newcombe.     With  numerous  Illustrations.     Ifimo,  75  cts. 

esr  This  work  is  designed  for  the  pleasure  and  profit  of  young  people ;  and,  as  the  title  indicates 
intended  as  an  aid  to  Home  Education.  The  great  variety  of  subjects  presented,  consisting  of  Moral 
Lessons,  Natural  History,  History,  Travels,  Physical  Geography,  Object  Lessons,  Drawing  and  Per- 
spective, Music,  Poetry,  etc.,  and  withal,  so  skilfully  treated  as  to  make  truth  simple  iind  attractive 
renders  it  an  admirable  family  book  for  winter  evenings  and  summer  days. 

A  very  excellent  book  for  children.  History,  philosophy,  science,  stories,  and  descriptions  of  games 
are  ail  mingled  together,  and  he  who  does  not  like  the  compound  must  be  hard  to  please.  —  i'os(. 

Pleasant  pages,  containing  information  on  a  great  variety  of  subjects.  Ten  minutes  a  day  on  this 
attractive  volume  would  soon  make  the  boy  quite  a  philosopher.  We  doubt  whether  most  boys  could 
be  confined  to  the  ten  minutes.  Curiosity  would  read  on  by  the  hour.  Such  books  have  a  charming 
influence  in  the  family.  Here  we  have  science  and  art  made  plam  and  captivating.  The  lessons  in 
drawing  and  perspective  alone  are  worth  the  price  of  the  volume.  And  then  a  tliousaiid  questions 
which  the  intelligent  young  mind  raises  are  here  most  pleasantly  and  plainly  answered.  —  Purlur  Mag. 

This  is  indeed  ahome  book  of  endless  amusement.  —  jSoston  Atlas. 

This  is  an  admirable  book  of  home  education.    Wo  commend  it  to  every  family.  —  Albany  S^jec. 

A  work  admirably  adapted  to  the  instruction  and  amusement  of  the  young.  —  Albany  Register. 

A  pleasant  book,  full  of  all  sorts  of  information  upon  all  sorts  of  subjects.  —  Providence  Journal. 

One  of  the  most  delightful  works  for  young  people  we  have  ever  met  with.  Few  persons,  j-oung  or 
old,  could  examine  its  pages  without  gaining  a  better  knowledge  of  a  useful  kind,  or  without  being  in- 
terested by  the  pleasant  and  attractive  manner  in  which  it  is  written,  if  is  one  of  the  most  successful 
combinations  of  the  pleasant  with  the  useful  to  be  found.  —  Daily  Advertiser. 

This  is  a  book  of  not  only  "  pleasant  pages,"  but  of  singularly  instructive  pages  for  young  people. 
Even  people  not  so  very  young  might  be  pleased  and  profited  by  its  perusal.  —  South.  Boston  Gazette. 

It  presents  much  solid  information,  and  jpens  before  the  young  new  fields  of  observation.  The 
youngsters  will  clap  tlieir  hands  with  joy.  —  American. 

There  is  a  great  deal  of  valuable  information  communicated  in  a  very  simple  and  easy  way.  While 
it  is  full  of  useful  instruction  to  children  it  is  also  suggestive  to  those  who  are  called  to  conduct  their 
education. —  Puritan  liecorcler. 

We  like  this  book :  it  is  well  fitted  for  its  place  in  the  family  library,  and  the  fireside  companion  of 
the  young.  Children  like  facts ;  when  these  are  se  forth  in  a  pleasant  way,  the  interest  is  greater  than 
fiction  ever  awakens,  unless  the  tiction  is  made  to  appear  like  truth.  —  Gocley's  Ladies'  Book. 

THE    GUIDING   STAR ;   or,  The  Bible    God's  Message.     By  Louisa 
Payson  Hopkins.    With  Frontispiece.    IGino,  cloth,  50  cts. 

Although  written  more  especially  for  young  persons,  its  argumentation  is  so  cogent  that  it  may  be 
read  with  profit  by  adult  sceptics.  —  N.  Y.  Commercial. 

This  is  an  excellent  httlc  work  to  put  into  the  hands  of  youth.  It  is  written  in  conversational  style, 
and  opens  up  most  beautifully,  and  with  great  simplicity,  the  great  leading  evidences  that  the  Bible 
contains  God's  message  to  man.  Those  seeking  after  truth  will  find  it  worthy  of  frequent  perusal,  and 
those  grounded  in  the  truth,  yet  wanting  m  peculiar  arguments  with  which  to  meet  the  cavils  of  infi- 
dels, will  find  it  a  champion  of  which  they  need  not  be  ashamed.—  Dr.  Stkague,  in  Albany  Spec. 

This  is  a  happy  presentation  of  the  argument  in  behalf  of  Christianity,  in  the  form  of  a  dialogue 
between  a  mother  and  her  children.  We  cordially  commend  the  work  to  parents,  children,  and  Sab- 
bath schools.  —  Congregationalist, 

This  volume  shouid  be  in  the  hands  of  every  youthful  reader,  and  we  doubt  not  that  adult  persons 
would  find  much  in  it  tliat  is  not  only  interesting,  but  instructive.  —  Phil.  Vh.  Chronicle. 

The  popnlaf  author  of  this  book  has  conferred  a  favor  on  the  public,  for  which  she  deserves  some- 
thing more  than  thanks.—  Ch.  Secretary. 

One  of  the  most  valuable  books  for  youth  that  we  have  seen.  It  required  no  ordinary  capacity,  re- 
search, and  labor,  to  prepare  it  in  its  pn  sent  shape.—  Cong.  Journal  and  Messenger. 

This  is  a  book  of  more  than  common  excellence.  While  reading  it,  how  often  have  we  wished  that 
all  the  youth  of  our  land  might  become  familiar  with  its  contents.  —  Ch.  Mirror.  X 


NATIONAL  SERIES  OF  AMERICAN  HISTORIES. 

BY    EEV.   JOSEPH    BANVAED. 


PLYMOUTH  AND  THE  PILGRIMS  ;  or,  Incidents  of  Adventures  in 
the  Histury  of  the  First  Settlers.     Witli  Uhistrations.     IGmo,  cloth,  60  cts. 

The  book,  when  once  taken  up,  will  not  be  laid  down  without  regret  until  it  is  finished.  —  Courier. 

An  exceedingly  interesting  volume.  The  incidents  are  well  chosen,  and  are  described  in  that  di- 
rect, simple,  and  sprightly  manner,  for  which  Mr.  Banvard  is  so  justly  esteemed,  and  which  eminently 
qualifies  him  to  be  a  writer  for  the  young.  —  Am.  Traveller. 

It  is  written  in  a  terse  and  vigorous  style,  and  is  well  adapted  for  popular  reading,  and  particularly 
to  entertain  and  instruct  tlie  youthful  mind.  —  Mercantile  Journal. 

Every  New  Englander,  no  matter  where  he  resides,  should  own  this  book.  —  Scientific  American. 

This  is  a  beautifully  executed  and  extremely  interesting  Volume.  It  is  written  in  a  plain,  but  vig- 
orous style,  particularly  adapted  to  voung  readers,  though  it  may  be  read  with  interest  by  the  older 
ones.  —  Ch.  Freeman. 

Highly  attractive  in  style  and  instructive  in  matter,  and  well  calculated  to  engage  the  attention  of 
young  persons.  —  iV.  Y.  Com.  Adv. 

NOVELTIES  OF  THE  NEW  WORLD  ;  an  Account  of  the  Adventures 
and  Discoveries  of  the  First  Explorers  of  North  America.  Being  the  second  volume  of 
Banvard's  Series  of  American  Histories.    With  numerous  Illustrations.    60c. 

If  Mr.  Banvard  completes  the  series  as  he  has  begun,  ho  will  supply  an  important  desideratum  for 
the  young  —  a  series  of  books  which  will  serve  as  valuable  introductions  and  enticements  to  more  ex- 
tended historical  reading.  —  A>n.  Travller. 

We  have  seen  the  boys  bend  over  these  pages,  unwilling  to  leave  them,  either  for  play  or  sleep ;  and 
when  finished,  inquiring  anxiously  when  the  next  would  come.  —  Watchman  and  Reflector. 

It  has  all  the  interest  of  a  romance.  -  Portland  Transcript. 

Written  in  a  felicitous  style,  which  is  neither  too  childish  for  adults,  nor  yet  too  difficult  of  compre- 
hension for  children.    They  will  delight  as  well  as  instruct.  —  JlcrcantUe  Journal. 

Some  of  the  most  interesting  scenes  and  events  in  the  New  World  are  here  brought  together  and  in- 
vested with  a  charm  that  is  irresistible  by  old  as  well  as  young.  —  Ch.  Intelligencer. 

The  book  is  beautifully  printed ;  the  subject  is  handled  in  a  masterly  manner.  —  Olive  Branch. 

ROMANCE  OF  AMERICAN  HISTORY ;  or,  an  Account  of  the  Eaily 
Settlement  of  North  Carolina  and  Virginia,  embracing  a  Narrative  of  the  tragic  Incidents 
connected  with  the  Spanish  Settlement  at  St.  Augustine,  the  French  Colonies  at  Ro- 
anoke, and  the  English  Plantation  at  Jamestown  ;  the  Captivity  of  Captain  John  Emith, 
and  the  interesting  Adventures  of  the  youthful  Pocahontas.  Being  the  third  volume  of 
Banvard's  Series  of  American  Histories.    With  numerous  Illustrations.    60c. 

It  has  .all  the  interest  of  romance,  and  the  additional  interest  of  veritable  history.  —  Puritan  Pec. 

It  is  a  most  pleasing  and  instructive  book.  —  Home  Journal. 

As  interesting  as  a  novel,  and  a  thousand  times  more  profitable  reading.  —  Lit.  Messenger. 

Every  library  should  be  furnished  with  this  National  Series  of  American  Histories.  —  iV.  E.  Farmer, 

Admirably  fitted  for  fireside,  family  reading,  and  calculated  to  interest  young  persons.  —  Traveller. 

This  is  the  third  volume  of  Mr.  Banvard's  attractive  series  of  books  founded  on  the  early  history  of 
our  country ;  and  it  will  make  a  most  valuable  addition  to  all  family  libraries.  —  Arthur's  Gazette. 

No  more  interesting  and  instructive  reading  can  be  put  into  the  hands  of  the  young.—  Port.  Trans. 

V3-  Other  volumes  of  this  popular  series  are  in  course  of  preparation.  The  series  will  embrace  the 
most  interesting  and  important  events  which  have  occurred  in  the  United  States  since  the  settlement 
of  the  country.  They  will  be  adapted  to  the  popular  mind,  and  especially  to  the  youth  of  our  coun- 
try, and  will  contain  numerous  fine  engravings.  There  will  he  twelve  or  more  16nio.  volumes,  of 
about  300  pages.  Each  volume  to  be  comi)lete  in  itself;  and  yet,  when  all  are  published,  they  will  to- 
gether form  a  regular  Sekies  OF  Amekican  Hisiokies.  Y 


DR.    WILLIAMS'S    WORKS. 


RELIGIOUS    TROGRESS ;    Discourses   on    the   Development  of    the 
Christian  Character.    By  William  R.  Williams,  D.  D.    Third  ed.    12ii)o,  cl ,  8oc. 

This  work  is  from  tlie  pen  of  one  of  the  brightest  lights  of  the  American  pulpit.  We  scarcely  know 
of  any  livina  writer  who  lias  a  finer  command  of  powerful  tliought  and  glowing,  impressive  language 
than  "he.    The  volume  will  advance,  if  possible,  the  author's  reputation.  —  Da.  Spkaouk,  Alb.  Atlas. 

This  book  is  a  rare  phenomena  in  these  days.  It  is  a  rich  exposition  of  Scripture,  with  a  fund  of 
practical  religious  wisdom,  conveyed  in  a  style  so  strong  and  massive  as  to  remind  one  of  the  English 
T-rite  s  of  two  centuries  ago  ;  and  yet  it  abounds  in  fresh  illustrations  drawn  from  every  (even  the 
latest  opened)  field  c  ;  science  and  of  literature.  —  Methodist  Quarterly. 

His  power  of  apt  and  forcible  illustra'.ion  is  without  a  parallel  among  modem  writers.  The  mute 
pages  spri  ig  into  hfe  beneath  the  magic  of  his  radiant  imagination.  But  this  is  never  at  the  expense 
of  solidity  of  thought  or  strengtli  of  argument.  It  is  seldom,  indeed,  that  a  mind  of  so  much  poetical 
inventioa  yields  such  a  willing  homage  to  the  logical  clement.  —  Harper's  Monihhj  Miscellany. 

With  warm  and  glowing  language.  Dr.  Williams  exhibits  and  enforces  the  truth ;  every  page  radiant 
with  "  thoughts  that  burn,"  leave  their  indelible  impression  upon  the  mind.  —  N.  Y.  Com.  Adv. 

The  strength  and  compactness  of  argumentation,  the  correctness  and  beauty  of  style,  and  the  im- 
portance of  ihe  animating  idea  of  the  discourses,  are  worthy  of  the  high  reputation  of  Dr.  Wdliams, 
and  place  them  among  the  most  finished  homiletic  productions  of  the  day.  -  N.  Y.  Evanyelist. 

Dr.  Williams  has  no  superior  among  American  divines  in  profound  and  exact  learning,  and  bril- 
liancy of  style.  He  seems  familiar  with  the  literature  of  the  world,  and  lays  his  vast  resources  under 
contribution  to  illustrate  and  adorn  every  theme  which  he  investigates.  We  wish  the  volume  could 
be  placed  in  every  religious  family  in  the  country.  —  P/ni.  (Jh,  Chronicle. 

LECTURES  ON  THE  LORD'S  PRAYER.     Third  ed.    32mo,  cl.,  85c. 

We  observe  the  writer's  characteristic  fulness  and  richness  of  language,  felicity  and  beauty  of  illus- 
tration, justness  of  discrimination  and  thought.  —  Watchman  and  Reflector. 

Dr.  Williams  is  one  of  the  most  interesting  and  accomplished  writers  in  this  country.  AVe  welcome 
this  volume  as  a  valuable  contribution  to  our  religious  literature  —  Ch.  Witness.] 

In  reading,  we  resolved  to  mark  the  passages  which  we  most  admired,  but  soon  found  that  we  should 
be  obliged  to  mark  nearly  all  of  them.  —  Ch.  Secretary. 

It  bears  in  every  page  the  mark  of  an  elegant  writer  and  an  accomplished  scholar,  an  acute  reasouer 
and  a  cogent  moralist.  Some  passages  are  so  decidedly  eloquent  th.at  we  instinctively  find  ourselvei 
looking  round  as  if  upon  an  audience,  and  ready  to  join  them  with  audible  applause—  Ch.  Inquirer. 

We  are  constantly  reminded,  in  reading  his  eloquent  pages,  of  the  old  English  writers,  whose  vigor- 
ous thought,  and  gorgeous  imagery,  and  varied  learning,  have  made  their  writings  an  inexhaustible 
mine  for  the  scholars  of  the  present  day.  —  Ch.  Observer. 

Their  breadth  of  view,  strength  of  logic,  and  stirring  eloquence  place  them  among  the  very  best  hom- 
iletical  eiforts  of  the  age.    Every  page  is  full  of  suggestion  as  well  as  eloquence.  —  Ch.  Parlor  Mag. 

MISCELLANIES.     New,  improved  edition.    (Price  reduced.)    12mo,  1,25. 

O-  This  work,  which  has  been  heretofore  published  in  octavo  form  at  1,75  per  copy,  is  published  by 
the  present  proprietors  in  one  handsome  12mo  volume,  at  the  low  price  of  1,25. 
A  volume  which  is  absolutely  necessary  to  the  completeness  of  a  library.—  N'.  Y.  Weekly  Review. 
Dr.  Williams  is  a  profound  scholar  and  a  brilliant  writer.  —  iT.  Y.  Evangelist. 

He  often  rises  to  the  sphere  of  a  glowing  and  impressive  eloquence,  because  no  other  form  of  lan- 
g-.iage  can  do  justice  to  his  thoughts  and  emotions.  So.  too,  the  exuberance  of  literary  illustration, 
with  which  he  clothes  the  driest  speculative  discussions,  is  not  brought  in  for  the  sake  of  eftect,  but  as 
the  natural  expression  of  a  mind  teeming  with  the  "  spoils  of  time "'  and  the  treasures  of  study  in  al- 
most every  department  of  learning.  --  y.  Y.  Tribune. 

From  the  pen  of  one  of  the  most  able  and  accomplished  authors  of/he  age.  -  Sap.  Memorial. 

We  are  glad  to  see  this  volume.    We  wish  such  men  abounded  in  every  sect.  —  Ch.  Register. 

One  of  the  richest  volumes  that  has  been  given  to  the  public  for  many  years.  —  A".  Y.  Bap.  Reg. 

The  author's  mind  is  cast  in  no  cSmmon  mould.    A  delightful  volume.  —  Meth.  Prof.        Bb 


MOTHERS   OF   THE   WISE  AND   GOOD. 

BY   THE   REV.  JABEZ  BURNS,  D.    D. 

Author  of  "Pulpit  Cyclopajdia,"  etc.     16mo,  cloth,  75  cents. 

esr  A  beautiful  gallery  of  portraits  of  those  who  not  only  were  "  wise  and  good  "  in  their  own  gen- 
eration, but  whose  influence,  long  after  tlicy  were  slumbering  in  the  dust,  weut  forth  to  live  again  in 
their  children.  A  sketch  of  the  mothers  of  the  most  eminent  men  of  the  world,  sliowing  how  much 
they  were  indebted  to  maternal  influence  for  their  greatness  and  exctUeuce  of  character,  is  given. 

A  handsome  volume,  containing  heaven-blessed  memorials  of  many  excellent  Christian  mothers, 
for  the  encouragement  of  others.  —  Fhll.  Ch.  Observer. 

If  this  is  not  a  popular  work,  it  must  be  because  mothers  arc  scarce,  and  real  children  are  no  more. 
It  is  full  of  the  anecdotal  literature  of  the  subject—  tales  with  a  moral.  It  ought  to  be  in  the  Sabbath 
school  library,  and  in  every  sitting  room  where  there  is  a  mother  to  be  stimulated  and  encouraged  iu 
her  sweet  and  holy  vocation.  G.  &  L.  have  done  many  good  things,  but  none  better  than  the  repub- 
lication of  this  book.  —  Puritan  Recorder. 

This  is  a  great  and  blessed  collection  of  important  subjects,  relating  to,  or  bearing  upon,  the  mater- 
nal influence,  in  forming  the  habits  and  moulding  the  character  of  children.  It  should  be  in  the 
liorae  of  every  mother  in  our  laud.  —  Albany  Spectator. 

One  of  the  most  delightful  volumes  we  have  read  for  a  long  time,  and  as  useful  and  valuable  ns  it 
13  delightful.  It  has  been  well  described  as  "  a  cabinet  of  charming  reminiscences,  of  facts  and 
morals,  of  incidents  and  principles—  it  once  delightful  and  edifying  — a  gallery  of"  elect  ladies"  and 
their  sous.    We  bespeak  for  it  a  universal  reception.  —  N.  Y.  Commercial. 

We  wish  it  were  in  every  family,  and  read  by  every  mother  in  the  land.—  Lutheran  Observer.     , 

We  have  lingered  over  the  pages  of  this  most  attractive  book,  with  feelings  of  interest,  which  we 
cannot  express.  Many  remembrances  of  youth  arose,  and  took  full  possession  of  our  heart,  while 
in  some  instances,  we  scarcely  knew  whether  we  read  the  pages  of  the  work  before  us,  or  tliose  of 
memory.  It  is  well  that  instances  of  the  precious  influences  of  maternal  piety,  prudence,  and  love, 
should  be  recorded;  but  who  can  tell  their  inestimable  value?—  IS nglish  Free  Ch.  Magazine. 

THE  EXCELLENT  WOMAN,  as  described  in  the  Book  of  Proverbs. 
Witli  ;in  Iii'ioduction  by  Rev.  W.  B.  Sprague,  D.  D.,  containing  twenty-four  splen- 
did Illustrations.     12mo,  cloth,  1,00;  cloth,  gilt,  1,75;  e.xtra  Turkey,  2.53. 

OS"  This  elegant  volume  is  an  appropriate  and  valuable  "gift  book  "  for  the  husband  to  present  the 
■wife,  or  the  child  the  mother.  It  treats  of  the  following  subjects  :  The  Virtuous  Woman  ;  Trust- 
worthy ;  Beneficent;  Active;  Enterprising;  Provident;  INIanaging;  Energetic;  Vigilant;  Indus* 
tiious ;  Humane;  Thoughtful;  Tasteful;  Creditable;  TrafRcking ;  Reputable;  Peaceful;  Domes- 
tic; Commended;   Pre-eminent;   Godly,  and  Rewarded  Woman. 

It  is  not  sufBcicnt  praise  to  say  that  we  have  been  interested  in  the  perusal  of  this  book.  It  is  just 
Buch  a  book  as  the  times  demand.  It  presents  to  the  female  mind  incentives  to  live  for  something 
more  noble  than  to  flit  like  a  butterfly  in  the  sunshine  of  capricious  admiration.  The  Excellent 
Woman,  described  in  the  Book  of  Proverbs,  is  the  text  by  which  the  writer  enforces  the  truth  that, 
true  dignity  and  honor  are  alone  attained  by  a  thorough  knowledge,  and  continued  practice  of  the 
relative  duties  of  life.    We  recommend  it  to  the  careful  perusal  of  all  our  patrons.  —  Mothers'  Journal. 

An  excellent  book,  elegantly  printed,  and  embellished  with  some  twenty-four  beautiful  engravings. 
We  commend  the  work  most  cordially  to  mothers,  sisters,  and  daughters.  —  Phil.  Ch.  Observer, 

It  will  bear  to  be  read  more  than  once;  and  each  successive  reading  will  reveal  some  new  gem 
of  thought  which,  in  the  general  mass  of  excellence,  had  been  overlooked  before.  —  Advertiser. 

We  have  commended  no  book  with  more  heartiness  and  good  will,  and  shall  be  glad  if  our  com- 
mendation places  it  in  the  families  of  our  readers,  as  a  book  to  be  read.  —  Watchman  and  Reflector. 

Full  of  wisdom  and  instruction.  —  Salem  Register. 

A  gem  of  the  first  water,  regarding  either  beauty  of  typography,  or  richness  of  contents.  —  Cong. 

THE  MARRIAGE  RING  ;  Or,  How  to  make  Home  Happy.  From  the 
Writings  of  John  Angell  James.  Beautiful  illustiated  edition.  Illuniiuated  title, 
and  elegant  variegated  borders  round  the  pages  of  the  book.     16mo,  cloth,  gilt,  75  cts. 

1^  A  more  beautiful  or  appropriate  "  gift "  to  present  a  newly-married  couple,  cannot  be  found. 
A  beautiful  volume,  and  a  very  suitable  presentto  a  newly-married  couple.  —  iV.  Y.  Ch.  Intelligencer. 
An  exquisite  little  volume,  inculcating  practical  hints  and  wise,suggestions.  —  Am.  Traveller. 

Ji 


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